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File: 1776564041066310.png (694 KB, 1080x1068)
694 KB PNG
Last one >>28881034

Looking at buying a Honda? Post here and we'll tell you our elitist asshole opinions!
Need help identifying a chassis?

http://www.superstreetonline.com/how-to/chassis-suspension/1312-honda-chassis-code-checklist/
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>>28936983
2016 rdx advance package with 38k miles on it.

Is that reliable?
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>>28937090
>278HP V6
Just get it anon, big old V6 Hondas are practically muscle cars in the era of pathetic horsepower and hybrids, and it's reliable too if you take care of it with a timing belt job ever 100k or 10 years, so you should factor at least $1400 of maintenance into the purchase of the RDX because it has been around for a decade despite the low miles, but then yoy would have an RDX worry free for a long time.
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given the news >>28936750 is there more of an incentive to buy a honda now? will dealers be discounting the car off more?
>>
Hello /o/, due to rising costs in everything Im deciding to bite the bullet and buy one of my dream cars a Honda Beat before it becomes almost impossible to import, to anyone who has anyone any tips on how to keep it maintained or things I should expect? Also if you guys do have one what year?
>>
File: PXL_20260122_171453661.jpg (1.41 MB, 2592x1944)
1.41 MB JPG
>last 3 Subarus have engine problems
>I'm going to buy an Acura, surely that will fix my problems
>6 speed manual, all wheel drive
>Surely the J37 won't burn oil!
>The J37 burns a tremendous amount of oil

I regret purchasing this. I regret importing the wheels for this. I missed not having a turbo car so much, I went out and bought a turbo car again. I wonder how much I can get for my 2010 TL SH-AWD 6MT. I paid $10k for it, and the car has like 170,000 miles. The amount of oil it consumes between oil changes is nearing Subaru levels of bad. Like the Oil light will randomly come on 2,000 miles after an oil change. I know I need to top it up / oil change when VTEC won't activate.

It drives fine. Only cons for when I sell it are:
North East car so undercarriage is rusty (just surface rust, nothing structural)
Parking brake is weak. Had it checked out by a dealership, but they didn't really fix it. I always park in 1st.
Head liner is sagging in the rear
Front brake callipers are rusty. I don't even know why, just a cosmetic thing. Very lame
Uhh, burns oil, thanks J37!
Weather stripping for windshield has peeled, and makes annoying sounds flapping in the wind at highway speeds.

The dealer I bought it from told me it didn't burn oil, but they didn't really have the car for long / got a chance to drive it for long to discover it does indeed burn oil. Can't really hold that against those I bought it from. I would like to sell it so the money can go towards paying off new to me turbo car. Uhhh, then the wheels. They are a legit set of BBS RI-A's I bought off crooooooober, which is like Up garage now. They are the 007 / 009? I think models. 5*120 18*8.5 / 18*9.5 and don't remember the offsets off the top of my head. I am running factory sized tires on them, 245/45/18 square setup, cause AWD. Look sweet on the car. I honestly just want to hang the wheels on my wall, that's how much I like looking at them. New car is 5*112 :(
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>>28937171
Why is it going to be impossible? I wanna buy one in about a years time
>>
>>28937171
>>28937497
I saw like 3 of them just last night, all in Texas, on FB Marketplace all for >$10k
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>>28937479
Try replacing the PCV valve and see if the oil consumption decreases, that's unfortunate about the oil consumption and shitboxyness of the car, but it is an old car after all, and it does run reliably to its credit.
>>
Since last thread I replaced my 15k mile old Honda MTF with Redline MTL. It's pretty great so far. Zero crunchiness and zero grinds when shifting, even at redline. Could just be new fluid but don't remember shifts ever feeling this good with the Honda mtf even when the fluid was new.



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