>/CCG/, posting your own classics edition. participation mandatory>For Classics made from 1979 or older, with few exceptions.>Everybody has their own taste, but some tastes are wrong. If you aren't sure if your car is classic or not, it's not.>Your Honda Miata doesn't belong here.>US, Euro, Jap, or whatever.>Post your classic, your work on it, your hackery, and get advice.>Any and all discussion about classics welcome, but may not necessarily generate responses; don't get butthurt.>Period correct performance > cosmetics.>Metal > plastic.>Classic shitbox > modern shitbox.>JBweld and RTV can fix anything>If you see rust there is more.>Rust and bodywork are the most difficult thing to repair.>Electrical work is difficult until you stop reading forum posts and buy a multi-meter.>Low oil pressure? Worn mains and rod bearings. Use Lucas and 15W40 until you afford a rebuild.>Do NOT buy a classic and plan to pay someone to work on it. You need to be able to do 90% or more of the work or you will go broke.>You will spend twice your budget, unless you have years of experience. If the salty old hands agree, it's true.>If you can't tune a carb you might literally be retarded>Nothing is as easy as it seemsPrevious thread: >>29032883
damn, last thread didn't even make it to 310 posts.
FE intake anon here. got the intake on and now i get to take it off to install a helicoil in the cylinder head.GOD DAMN IT!!!! i do this for fun. i do this for fun.
>>29067261just waiting on parts...AGAIN>>29067719iron or alloy head?
>>29067737ironi think the threads are 3/8-16
>>29067876fugg. was it cross threaded or some shit. usually harder to fuck up threads in iron...
Spotted this when going to pickup a classic project, and he supposedly has a few American cars just rotting away in his garden. '69 Charger, a 'Cuda, so on and so forth. Used to drag race them, but doesn't have the time or money to restore them all anymore.
>>29069338That means you're going to have a Mopar soon, right?
>>29069391I mean, I'd love one, but they're too much money for not enough car. Even rotted-out shit heaps without a functioning powertrain command a 5 figure price tag, and every panel and part would have import charges on top thanks to them coming from the US. I did almost end up with a '72 Charger Rallye once, but I didn't have the cash at the time; one of the biggest missed opportunities of my life.
>>29069395maybe you could get one from aus. the big three offered a US model rebuilt locally with RHD as their highest tier offerings in the 50s-70s.
>>29069438Nah, they're still too expensive, especially once you tack on that sweet sweet shipping cost + tip on top. I just don't love those cars enough to justify dropping all those sheckles on them.
Newest heap of shit [GET]We finally fixed our friend's Ford Pilot, and as thanks he just gave us this Austin 6cwt pickup. It's obviously in a bit of a state, and there are no documents with it, but these Austin variants are rare as hen's teeth, and are worth a pretty penny even in this state. A great candidate for a nut & bolt resto, really.
It's been so hot for so long, I've forgotten what it feels like to be able to be outside. To wrench. To live.I am trapped in a cool dark box awaiting the safe season. My project sits sadly idle.When I can finally get back to it - is it worth tearing the whole interior out to install dynamat and speaker wiring, or do I just say fuck it and leave well enough alone for now and stick to dash speakers only while I get all the mechanical stuff sorted?
>>29069602Are you an audiophile? If not, just leave well enough until you get things done. No point in starting on something when you haven't finished something else. With a rolling resto, it's always best to work 1 thing at a time.
>>29069646>Are you an audiophile?Yes but car audio is more of a nice to have thing for me. I've already got a RetroSound head unit and new speakers for the dash spots and that's plenty for me. I'm not so concerned with the rear speakers, but I do eventually want to do the dynamat treatment on the interior to reduce interior noise on long croozes. That's the main thing really, I find it massively improves the "feel" of the car. Makes it feel higher quality than it really is when the floor/roof/firewall are all damped nicely.I'll just leave it for now. I can tackle that in the future once the big stuff is done.I should probably just get it out of the way and place my big order with Maximum Motorsports for all the chassis/suspension stuff so I can get ready for the engine swap.
>>29069755i find that people go overboard with dynamat. it works best on large, wide and mostly flat areas that would act like a drum but people tend to just cover every inch of the interior with it.
>zip tiesCheck>cheap insulated crimp terminalsCheck>random assorted hose clampsCheckI am become bodge, destroyer of classics.
>>29070228those crimps are fine though
>>29070687They're unsightly, bulky, and I find that it's a 50/50 as to whether or not a bloody good tug will pull them free, particularly with small gauge wires. I don't mind using them for bodges and emergencies, but for permanent solutions I prefer uninsulated open barrel terminals like pic rel.
>>29070718>I find that it's a 50/50 as to whether or not a bloody good tug will pull them freeget a decent set of ratcheting crimps and you won't have this problem. with my old non-ratcheting ones I'd squeeze the absolute shit out of them and they never pulled, the ratchet made it much easier.If the wire gauge is too small for even the red 22-18 awg ones, strip back more insulation then fold the strands over on themselves. The ratchets have the bonus of also squeezing the plastic insulation around the wire sheath itself, so it does the same thing as the strain relief ears on open barrel terminals.I use them when there's enough room for them which has thankfully for me, been every time I've needed them so far.
>>29070718>>29070735For me its soldering
>>29070745not good for vehicle wiring unless the thing it's soldered to is bolted down good
>>29070764Tach pickup at the coil and some other places i cant remember. Why do tou say its mot good?
>>29070735My dad's decent set of ratcheting crimps are the ones I use if I'm working with insulated terminals, but even then they still don't guarantee success.>If the wire gauge is too small for even the red 22-18 awg ones, strip back more insulation then fold the strands over on themselves.This is what I always have to do. Not much wrong with it in practice, but it's just more faff that shouldn't need to be done, and while it does generally improve my chances, it still doesn't make it 100% successful.I just avoid them whenever I can. Again, no problems for temporary stuff that doesn't need to look pretty or stand up to abuse, but otherwise I steer clear of them.>>29070745I don't begrudge anyone for soldering stuff, but I avoid it due to vibrations supposedly causing fractures. Never actually seen this happen, mind, even on the stuff I myself have soldered in the past, but people that know far more than me recommend against it, and I find crimping significantly easier anyway. I also find it annoying when solder wicks up the wire, making a small length rock solid and inflexible.
>>29070766if the solder wicks up into the sheath (and it usually does) it creates a stress riser at the part where the solder ends as >>29070774 describes. It's also not as strong as a crimp. Some people do crimp + solder but then if you add too much it wicks up and defeats the crimp's own strain relief (the ears behind the ones that crimp down on the conductor itself).I know the exposed part of tin-plated wire can get corrosion over time, so some people do dab just a bit of solder to cover it up which is nice. If you're soldering to minimise resistance, a proper crimp cold welds the strands of wire together with the terminal.But generally, soldered parts are already part of a bigger assembly that is already bolted down and often has some method of vibration dampening. Think stuff like ECUs where the board that has solder on it, which is then bolted to a housing, which is then bolted to the body or a bracket, which may have rubber grommets under the bolt heads.>>29070774might be the crimps themselves. the ones i get at work are supplied by wurth and they're pretty good. noticeable difference in quality versus the cheap stuff you'd get at a retail shop.
>>29070946>might be the crimps themselves. the ones i get at work are supplied by wurth and they're pretty good. noticeable difference in quality versus the cheap stuff you'd get at a retail shop.I think this is very likely. The ones I have access to are the finest chink shit amazon could provide; thin gauge metal that's likely aluminium rather than tinned copper or brass.
its funny watching 70s movies and a car that's 3-5 years old when it was filmed will look just as shitty and beat up than my 40 year old shitbox i drive now
>>29072175i mean if your shitbox made it 40 years it was definitely taken care of much better than the one that was treated like a shitbox from the get-go.
