>/CCG/, posting your own classics edition. participation mandatory>For Classics made from 1979 or older, with few exceptions.>Everybody has their own taste, but some tastes are wrong. If you aren't sure if your car is classic or not, it's not.>Your Honda Miata doesn't belong here.>US, Euro, Jap, or whatever.>Post your classic, your work on it, your hackery, and get advice.>Any and all discussion about classics welcome, but may not necessarily generate responses; don't get butthurt.>Period correct performance > cosmetics.>Metal > plastic.>Classic shitbox > modern shitbox.>JBweld and RTV can fix anything>If you see rust there is more.>Rust and bodywork are the most difficult thing to repair.>Electrical work is difficult until you stop reading forum posts and buy a multi-meter.>Low oil pressure? Worn mains and rod bearings. Use Lucas and 15W40 until you afford a rebuild.>Do NOT buy a classic and plan to pay someone to work on it. You need to be able to do 90% or more of the work or you will go broke.>You will spend twice your budget, unless you have years of experience. If the salty old hands agree, it's true.>If you can't tune a carb you might literally be retarded>Nothing is as easy as it seemsPrevious thread: >>29032883
damn, last thread didn't even make it to 310 posts.
FE intake anon here. got the intake on and now i get to take it off to install a helicoil in the cylinder head.GOD DAMN IT!!!! i do this for fun. i do this for fun.
>>29067261just waiting on parts...AGAIN>>29067719iron or alloy head?
>>29067737ironi think the threads are 3/8-16
>>29067876fugg. was it cross threaded or some shit. usually harder to fuck up threads in iron...
Spotted this when going to pickup a classic project, and he supposedly has a few American cars just rotting away in his garden. '69 Charger, a 'Cuda, so on and so forth. Used to drag race them, but doesn't have the time or money to restore them all anymore.
>>29069338That means you're going to have a Mopar soon, right?
>>29069391I mean, I'd love one, but they're too much money for not enough car. Even rotted-out shit heaps without a functioning powertrain command a 5 figure price tag, and every panel and part would have import charges on top thanks to them coming from the US. I did almost end up with a '72 Charger Rallye once, but I didn't have the cash at the time; one of the biggest missed opportunities of my life.
>>29069395maybe you could get one from aus. the big three offered a US model rebuilt locally with RHD as their highest tier offerings in the 50s-70s.
>>29069438Nah, they're still too expensive, especially once you tack on that sweet sweet shipping cost + tip on top. I just don't love those cars enough to justify dropping all those sheckles on them.
Newest heap of shit [GET]We finally fixed our friend's Ford Pilot, and as thanks he just gave us this Austin 6cwt pickup. It's obviously in a bit of a state, and there are no documents with it, but these Austin variants are rare as hen's teeth, and are worth a pretty penny even in this state. A great candidate for a nut & bolt resto, really.
It's been so hot for so long, I've forgotten what it feels like to be able to be outside. To wrench. To live.I am trapped in a cool dark box awaiting the safe season. My project sits sadly idle.When I can finally get back to it - is it worth tearing the whole interior out to install dynamat and speaker wiring, or do I just say fuck it and leave well enough alone for now and stick to dash speakers only while I get all the mechanical stuff sorted?
>>29069602Are you an audiophile? If not, just leave well enough until you get things done. No point in starting on something when you haven't finished something else. With a rolling resto, it's always best to work 1 thing at a time.
>>29069646>Are you an audiophile?Yes but car audio is more of a nice to have thing for me. I've already got a RetroSound head unit and new speakers for the dash spots and that's plenty for me. I'm not so concerned with the rear speakers, but I do eventually want to do the dynamat treatment on the interior to reduce interior noise on long croozes. That's the main thing really, I find it massively improves the "feel" of the car. Makes it feel higher quality than it really is when the floor/roof/firewall are all damped nicely.I'll just leave it for now. I can tackle that in the future once the big stuff is done.I should probably just get it out of the way and place my big order with Maximum Motorsports for all the chassis/suspension stuff so I can get ready for the engine swap.
>>29069755i find that people go overboard with dynamat. it works best on large, wide and mostly flat areas that would act like a drum but people tend to just cover every inch of the interior with it.
>zip tiesCheck>cheap insulated crimp terminalsCheck>random assorted hose clampsCheckI am become bodge, destroyer of classics.
>>29070228those crimps are fine though
>>29070687They're unsightly, bulky, and I find that it's a 50/50 as to whether or not a bloody good tug will pull them free, particularly with small gauge wires. I don't mind using them for bodges and emergencies, but for permanent solutions I prefer uninsulated open barrel terminals like pic rel.
>>29070718>I find that it's a 50/50 as to whether or not a bloody good tug will pull them freeget a decent set of ratcheting crimps and you won't have this problem. with my old non-ratcheting ones I'd squeeze the absolute shit out of them and they never pulled, the ratchet made it much easier.If the wire gauge is too small for even the red 22-18 awg ones, strip back more insulation then fold the strands over on themselves. The ratchets have the bonus of also squeezing the plastic insulation around the wire sheath itself, so it does the same thing as the strain relief ears on open barrel terminals.I use them when there's enough room for them which has thankfully for me, been every time I've needed them so far.
>>29070718>>29070735For me its soldering
>>29070745not good for vehicle wiring unless the thing it's soldered to is bolted down good
>>29070764Tach pickup at the coil and some other places i cant remember. Why do tou say its mot good?
>>29070735My dad's decent set of ratcheting crimps are the ones I use if I'm working with insulated terminals, but even then they still don't guarantee success.>If the wire gauge is too small for even the red 22-18 awg ones, strip back more insulation then fold the strands over on themselves.This is what I always have to do. Not much wrong with it in practice, but it's just more faff that shouldn't need to be done, and while it does generally improve my chances, it still doesn't make it 100% successful.I just avoid them whenever I can. Again, no problems for temporary stuff that doesn't need to look pretty or stand up to abuse, but otherwise I steer clear of them.>>29070745I don't begrudge anyone for soldering stuff, but I avoid it due to vibrations supposedly causing fractures. Never actually seen this happen, mind, even on the stuff I myself have soldered in the past, but people that know far more than me recommend against it, and I find crimping significantly easier anyway. I also find it annoying when solder wicks up the wire, making a small length rock solid and inflexible.
>>29070766if the solder wicks up into the sheath (and it usually does) it creates a stress riser at the part where the solder ends as >>29070774 describes. It's also not as strong as a crimp. Some people do crimp + solder but then if you add too much it wicks up and defeats the crimp's own strain relief (the ears behind the ones that crimp down on the conductor itself).I know the exposed part of tin-plated wire can get corrosion over time, so some people do dab just a bit of solder to cover it up which is nice. If you're soldering to minimise resistance, a proper crimp cold welds the strands of wire together with the terminal.But generally, soldered parts are already part of a bigger assembly that is already bolted down and often has some method of vibration dampening. Think stuff like ECUs where the board that has solder on it, which is then bolted to a housing, which is then bolted to the body or a bracket, which may have rubber grommets under the bolt heads.>>29070774might be the crimps themselves. the ones i get at work are supplied by wurth and they're pretty good. noticeable difference in quality versus the cheap stuff you'd get at a retail shop.
>>29070946>might be the crimps themselves. the ones i get at work are supplied by wurth and they're pretty good. noticeable difference in quality versus the cheap stuff you'd get at a retail shop.I think this is very likely. The ones I have access to are the finest chink shit amazon could provide; thin gauge metal that's likely aluminium rather than tinned copper or brass.
its funny watching 70s movies and a car that's 3-5 years old when it was filmed will look just as shitty and beat up than my 40 year old shitbox i drive now
>>29072175i mean if your shitbox made it 40 years it was definitely taken care of much better than the one that was treated like a shitbox from the get-go.
>>29067876Try a thread chaser before helicoil.
>>29070687>>29070718I can fo a western union splice with vinyl tape and be a better electrical and mechanical connection
>>29073306I do threads repairs often at work (albeit much smaller dia and alu & mag). If an iron thread pulled out, the whole thing is fuxx0rd. an insert will be stronger than original
car is fucking finally running holy fuck.distributor drive gear couldn't be removed from the stock shaft so i had to wait for the new shaft from the same company i ordered the composite gear from. somehow my mate had lost all three hammers and mallets he had at his place, but he did have a bunch of wood blocks lying around and one of them had a hole that way too conveniently, perfectly, sized for the shaft to sit in while I put a piece of wood on top of the gear, then banged another piece of wood against that, squatting caveman style. roll pin was then pressed in with a smol vise he had sitting unopened for years.finally got to test drive it with the new heads and cam, holy fuck that really woke it up. barely have to press the throttle and it's already hauling ass.valve covers had to be really cranked down to stop them leaking though. old stamped steel covers on new alloy heads lel.hydraulic roller cam seems to run well despite the springs meant for flat tappets lol. it's not a super crazy cam though. just a bit more lift than stock.
>>29073307western union splice is nice when you have the room. but you need to strip like an inch of insulation to do it well with stranded wire.
>>29073457Modding new cleveland hei for old cleveland with hydraulic roller cam?
>>29073529nah, big block mopar.the difference in power on the butt dyno is pretty significant. I now need to get the exhaust redone again because it's got awful droning now. Kinda annoyed at the previous shop that did it; I asked for a H pipe knowing that X pipe is better for HP but didn't care about that, and they put an X pipe anyway.Gonna find me the biggest chambered mufflers that can fit on it, but not sure whether to go true duals or H pipe.
>>29073350But if its just cross threaded or has the beginning boogered up you can chase an iron thread and be within 95% of factory strength without resorting to an insert. And since its just the intake its not a major load bearing thread.I dont think anybody here would rather have a helicoil over the stock iron.
>>29073601>when the heads are worth more than the vehicle....I have one of those builds.
>>29066863I make this reply every once in a while but is it really worth buying a somewhat beat up classic to learn how to work on cars? Most I can do is an oil change and fumble fuck a brake job. I'm not saying I'm gonna go out and perfectly restore a GTX or Chevelle but is buying a beat up olds or nova and fixing it up a terrible idea?
>>29073760No. It's great. I picked up an old F-100 to do just that and now I've found myself into partial engine building(not the machining part, but assembly from machined parts). Very much worth it. Sure it'll take a couple of years to be well versed, but well worth it.
>>29073760>>29073763yeah what this anon said. a truck is gonna be the easiest to work on. also cheapest to buy
>>29073763>>29073879The thing is I already drive a truck and while it's backwards logic I want something a little sportier to drive and while I don't necessarily need one all that often I'd like to have that back seat. There's a few dart swingers, cutlasses and Lemans for sale around me that are road ready but it's just 10k-15k is a lot to throw at something like that because I know they're getting rid of it at that price for a reason.
>>29073601>awful droning>Gonna find me the biggest chambered mufflers that can fit on itMight wanna do some research on that first. Seems J-pipes are all the rage. Can be made adjustable too.
>>29073966Nta but a buddy gave me a pair of these for Christmas.Im going to run dual flow master 40 series that i had for another project then dump the other side(s) into the giant hot water heater of a muffler thats under there now.
>>29073723kek, despite the rust and how much i've put into the thing, I could probably break even with how the market is going. Ahh who am I kidding I'm only gonna sell it if someone offers me a retarded amount of cash for it, because I'm gonna drive it like I stole it.>>29074033it's also a fair bit louder, i don't think people will find it obnoxiously loud, but it's still a little louder for my liking. I do know about J-pipes but seems like the shops I talk to just look at me like I'm speaking foreign nerd language when I bring it up. Hopefully the next shop I take it to will know.
>>29074064oops meant to reply to >>29073966
>>29074064>>29074065>the shops I talk to just look at me like I'm speaking foreign nerd language when I bring it up. Hopefully the next shop I take it to will know.As with anything else custom, it's you that's going to have to take the lead in having what you want all figured out and then telling them exactly what to do.
>>29074153I probably should've been more assertive; I should've put my foot down and said "h pipe, no exceptions i don't care if x is better i want h and that's what I'm paying for"
>>29074064Are you calling a Y-pipe a J-pipe (?)
>>29074260no, it's an actual J pipe like in >>29073966's picalso known as a quarter wave resonator
>>29074266Those dont work the way you think they do.They have to be tuned for a specific frequency and they can amplify other tones.Theyre a bandaid at best for someone who chose the wrong mufflers to begin with.Might as well be part of the placebo group in a cancer study.
Lokar dipstick tube and new seal fixed the trans leak in the nova.Took the old lady out for ice cream after a day at the beach
>>29074384But is it chrome??
>>29074384nice. those top bolts on the th350 are a bitch to get to.
>>29074392I just dropped the passenger side header and did all the work with mirrors and right angle picks and scrapers. Porsche experience came in clutch for these big paws >>29074385Kinda, it’s the flexible braided one
>>29074382i know how they work; i should've clarified that with these new heads and cam, the exhaust is significantly louder, AND it also has a very awful drone at around 2000 rpm. The plan was to get even bigger mufflers to quiet it down, as well as a J pipe to get rid of the 2000 rpm drone.
When I finally finish my swap I'm gonna find an exhaust shop that caters to finicky rich old men and I'm going to have them put the quietest system they can come up with on it. I will croooze.
>>29074526>finicky rich old menwouldn't that mean they'd rip you off though?
>>29074413Measure the space you have to work with and find a pair of OEM donors at the junkyard. There is no aftermarket mufflers that will match the dullness of factory exhaust.
>>29074708>oem doners at the junkyardouch, that's gonna be unobtainium then (straya). I'll just get one of the guys in the shop to go for a demonstration run to show him just how loud it is, hopefully he'll have a much clearer idea of what I want.In some more positive news, i fixed the overheating at idle issue...it was the timing. we set it to 14° as a conservative test, the thing would be too cool on the highway, but then at low speeds it'd overheat and coolant would come out the overflow. Upped it to 18 and it now stays smack bang in the middle, although it was a cool night tonight. Cools right back down again if I go ~45 mph or faster.But still very hopeful, gonna test it again on the way to work tomorrow.Went WOT before the road ran out. Idle is very loud but at least it sounds really nice when you floor it. >>>/wsg/6225231
>>29074718>correlation =/=causationI dont think its your timing, something else is amiss. A properly functioning cooling system can keep it in the normal range while towing up a grade through the desert in the summer.
>>29074779>A properly functioning cooling system can keep it in the normal range while towing up a grade through the desert in the summer.True, but what if there was something beyond the cooling system that could generate more heat than it could handle? In this case it was probably timing that was too retarded. In any case I'll know for sure in the day when it's warmer. Where I am, it isn't a hot night by any means, but it's definitely not as cold as it was a week or two ago.
Retard here, I want to rotate the belts so I can read the part numbers printed directly on them and order the right ones (there’s like 50 different references on RockAuto). What’s the easiest method? bumping the starter with the ignition disconnected?>V8 472
>>29074968>bumping the starter with the ignition disconnected?yea
>>29074718Look for the equivalent Walker muffler. They are an OEM supplier and should have some factory dull style muffs for you.
Do you guys think assembling an engine at home is asking for critical failure due to contamination or is it fine? I can't afford to pay for a rebuild but I can afford the parts and machine shop work.
>>29075143It increases the risk of contamination, sure, but so long as you're working indoors and you're careful, it's usually fine. You'd be surprised at how filthy some engine builder's workshops actually are.
>>29075143get a plastic drop cloth to cover it while you're not working on it
>>29075139thanks, will check em out>>29075143if you need to leave it exposed for a while, it doesn't hurt to spray a coat of wd40 just to help inhibit rust.
>>29075143Couldn’t find the pics but I built my motor in the side yard of my on laws house and it’s going strong almost 9 years later
>>29075143I built a v8 in my living room once.
>>29074800Its not timing.Cooling systems arent magic. Youre either not pulling enough air or not pushing enough water.Old radiators can swell and block airflow or become calcified internally and not transfer hear from the coolant to the tubes.Fan clutch slipping or electric might not be spinning fast enough. Shrouds help but lack of one usually isnt the culprit.Water pump impellers rust away. Thermostats get stuck closed (I've seen multiple failures right out of the box on new ones).
>>29076025Ok so it did end up getting very hot and dribbling out the overflow, but it took much longer than before in heavy traffic.I'll give the radiator a flush, when I was putting it back in I could still hear some shit bouncing around in it when I was shaking it. It's a new alloy radiator though. The shit is crud that's probably sitting at the back of the block.Fan clutch is a heavy duty one (iirc spins at 90% of shaft speed) and seems to be ok; tested by turning off the engine then once it's stopped spinning, immediately trying to spin by hand, it turned no more than 1/4 of a revolution.Water pump is a fairly new 6 blade one. Thermostat is definitely not stuck closed.
>>29076252Pulling the thermostat to test run for a day or two is the easiest way to start checking shit off the list. Pulling an upper radiator hose (wedge it so its pointed over the top of the radiator) and watching the water shoot out in front of the car on startup is another easy check too.I've never liked or trusted clutch fans. Did you check it hot or cold?And unfortunately I don't know how many times ive heard "dude its not the radiator, its fine" and when they finally run out of options and replace the radiator the temp gauge is rock steady and never even thinks of flinching beyond the midpoint even under extreme use.
>>29075143Ive only ever built them at home. Just send it anon.
>>29076485clutch was tested by turning the engine off after it was at operating temps for a while, then trying to turn the fan by hand. it wouldn't rotate more than 1/4 turn. i've never had problems with them and always thought they were a nice balance between the flow rate of a fixed fan, and the freewheeling capability of an electric fan.the radiator is only a couple months old, but it is an ebay special aluminium one. that being said, it prior to the head swap it cooled much better than the old clogged factory rad. the tubes are like 2 inches long too, with two reinforcing ribs in them
>>29076485>Pulling the thermostat to test run for a day or two is the easiest way to start checking shit off the listwould a stuck thermostat still prevent enough water from flowing to cool at highway speeds? only asking because at the moment, it seems like if i can get it above 50 mph it'll the needle goes down fairly quickly to the point that it actually gets cold, then it'll take a while before it warms back up again to the point of overheating/bubbling coolant out the overflow.
The spare tire in my car is original and it's a shame I can't find suitable replacements.
>>29076551I punctured a radiator at the top of a mountain during winter (above freezing) and was able to drive an FE big block about 30 miles down to the nearest town with zero coolant without overheating. I was able to run as an air cooled engine because I was idling at 40mph with chilled air.If theres a fault with the cooling system then its all about air flow, ambient temperature and load.If the radiator is only a couple months old I wouldnt expect it to be at fault. Im not as well versed in mopar as others but ive never seen a v8 that didnt have a thermostat bypass. It flows enough that under some conditions it can just be on verge of overheating. You can test a thermostat by boiling a pot of water and dropping it in and watching it open. Theyre usually just a hard failure and it either opens or doesnt, not like "sometimes it opens" or "it only partly opens"
>>29076556https://cokertire.com/tires/775-14-bf-goodrich-3-8-inch-redline-tire.html
>>29076577That's a 14, not a 9.15×15, and it's not a three-stripe tire that goes "wide thin wide" for the whitewall pattern. Those were optional tires that cost an extra $54.05 new.
Anybody ever used this stuff? I’ve got some brackets for my engine bay that were originally zinc coated, thought I would try some of this out.
>>29076573>If theres a fault with the cooling system then its all about air flow, ambient temperature and load.hmm...may very well be air flow then; i can romp on the thing all day long, as long as it's on the highway. but then stop-start traffic will see the needle climb very slowly.i'm thinking chrysler may have really calculated how much they could just get away with in this aspect, and the aftermarket heads making more power simply from just flowing better may be too taxing on the stock system that never had a shroud or AC etc.
>>29076654>system that never had a shroudIt's been my experience that shroudless cars have had fixed fans. Those also have to be really close to the radiator, like 3/4 inch or so close. While cars with shrouds would usually have either flex or clutch fans with a very few having fixed fans. If your thermal clutch fan is too far away from the radiator and no shroud it's possible that the thermal spring on the front of the fan clutch is not sensing correctly.
>>29076709>Those also have to be really close to the radiator, like 3/4 inch or so close.This is very true.I had assumed the mopar was just a rebuild and everything else was factory. I shouldnt assume such things. And even if hes running it the way its been for 30 years doesnt mean its correct. That FE that I ran air cooled for 30 miles has a flex fan on it that i installed in the mid 90s. When I converted to a flex I had to get a spacer that moved it 2" forward so it would be right up against the radiator. Im not running a shroud because ive never needed one.
>>29076709>>29076893yeah i do recall my old fixed four blade fan having a spacer and being very close to the radiator.Mind you, the seven blade clutch fan i replaced it with actually ended up even closer to the radiator.I did a quick test with some receipt paper (i forgot to use the sheet of A4 paper i got specifically for this lol) and it actually stuck to the radiator at idle speed without a shroud.On a very related note, I opened up the cap and saw that most of the passages had once again clogged up (either partially or nearly completely) with gunk. I think I'm going to have to reverse flush the fuck out of the radiator and block every week or so until all the crud is removed.Oh, and also fab up my shroud too. Bought some 600x600 galvanised sheet steel for that.The only things I'm hung up on are how I'm gonna deal with the right and bottom edges (from driver's POV), see pic related - the fan will sit over the right edge of the radiator, and the bottom edge will need to be right up against the AT cooler fittings. Middle pic is what it'd look like if I cut the hole to match the fan location. I don't have access to a welder either.Although I am thinking of cutting then bending a piece of sheet steel so as to first bolt to the sides of the shroud itself, then bend it so it seals up the gap formed from the hole for the fan.
>>29076503why are you scared of us seeing your attire? do you build engines nude? based if true
>>29077215No clue why I covered it all, that pic is from 10 years ago.Current engine. 455 HO
>>29077302
>>29077012Without a welder thats going to be a tough one.30 years ago there was a program where you could design a ahroud and the program would spit out a template with cut and brake lines to make it in one piece. Damned if I can remember the name though.
>>29077306is that a gantry hoist or do you have reinforced roof trusses? i need something for my garage
>>2907731580 year old hoist on reinforced trusses, works like a dream.
>>29077329>80 year old hoistpics plox
>>29077329i wish i could see how the trusses were reinforced.is it stationary or on a sliding track?
>>29077012Yoy dont have to be exact.
>>29077440And I know junkyards are getting slim on the older stuff but im curious how close you could get with a random chevy shroud and just offset it slightly to line up with your fan. Obviously find something close and go from there, not just any random chassis.
>>29077012so what car/trugg are you working with?
>>29076593https://cokertire.com/tires/900-15-bf-goodrich-triple-whitewall-tire.html
>>29077533Wrong configuration. That's a thin, wide, thin stripe pattern. I need a wide, thin, wide configuration.
>>290775191967 dodge phoenix
>>29075143my friend built an engine in his shed once and it was filthy in there. dog hair was falling into the engine from his clothes when he was assembling it. ran fine
>>29077691Probably doesnt exist, thats as close as you're getting
>>29077691Theyre purposely different to differentiate between vintage and modern production.
>>29077743Do valiants or darts not have the same shroud? Or monaco or any others?
>>29077533dang I understand trailer queens now. If I spent $450 a tire on bias plys I would want them to last the rest of my lifetime toothat's the same price as 35in off-roading tires
>>29078057That was my entire point.>>29078367Those are actually made to be correct for the 1969 Lincoln, not the '66 through '68 Imperial.
>>29078469looking them up, the valiants only ever had 318s (iirc the fan is in a different location to the big blocks), big block dart might work but looking at the fan shroud for them, it might still be off. Mancini does have C body repros are available but it's gonna be like 500 bucks with shipping lol.I got a sheet of 600x600mm galvanised steel with an extra offcut in case I need it, it's at least 540x500 WxH, depth will need to be no more than 50mm so it juuust has the right amount of material. Extra offcut may come in handy for the more difficult parts.Hoping to be able to make it a two-piece shroud so it's easier to take on and off for whatever reason.
>>29078568an update on this - I just remembered that my mate said that while he was hosing the front of the radiator to help cool it down, he noticed the water on it started steaming only when I started revving the engine.Did a bit more digging, and it turns out the 6 blade "high flow" water pumps that were designed for engines that came with AC, actually had a different sized pulley used with them, versus the "standard" flow 8 blade pumps used on the non-AC engines, which had a bigger pulley, and spun slower as a result.It seems that the two extra blades were designed to offset the decreased spin speed of that pulley...that's probably also why my car keeps overheating at idle too, the engine just isn't spinning the pump quickly enough, and combined with the crud in the radiator, results in overheating.
>>29066863I'm working on a repair/restoration of one of my car's doors. I'm focusing just on the door for now since I don't want to get into too much at once but now that I'm looking at every single item I will need to do if I want to do the job well, it's actually a lot. Can you guys double check me on this?>Install new speaker. Will require drilling extra screw holes in the door panel. To prevent rust, I was thinking of getting a bit of enamel paint to cover the freshly drilled surfaces.>New roll of butyl tape because I'm certain the old stuff is worn out by now.>Maybe a new vapor barrier made from poly sheeting>replacing damaged plastic pieces/screw bosses with JB weld>sanding a rusted ashtray and respraying it with galvanizing spray>replacing carpet on door panel that turned to dust, will require a few square feet of carpeting plus some sort of edge trim (maybe Instabind) and spray adhesive to attach to the door card>maybe new sound deadening/insulationI'm looking at nearly $150 for everything, maybe more. I haven't even pulled the door fully apart, but does this sound right? I guess I'm probably getting way ahead of myself.
>>29078652oh, also the bottom of the door is rusted out. I kind of don't even want to think about it.
>>29078633tested it with the thermostat out of the car, some interesting developments:>still slowly overheats on the highway>at a stop light the temps remain steady>did a WOT pull while already moving, temp needle went right downgotta be the timing. dizzy is still running the mechanical advance it came with (iirc 20 degrees) so with its initial setting of 16, 36 total would be too much for the engine, 33-34 is recommended. Time to get a limiter plate and also play with the vacuum advance...>>29078652for the screw holes you could get a cheap bottle of nail polish, it dries in a minute or two and it forms a pretty tough coat.i bought my vapor barrier from a pool supply shop, it was just a sheet of 100 micron thick plastic. Still transparent enough to see through in case you need to inspect behind it for whatever reason.
>>29078999I pulled the door card off and the PO actually seems to have already drilled the speaker holes, and everything looks fine without rust so I'm just going to leave it how it is.But I will probably need to redo a vapor barrier.
>>29078999Go ahead and play with timing. When you've exhausted that avenue ill be here to discuss how much coolant youre (not) moving.
>>29079331I forgot to say that I did a full flush of the block and radiator, it cleaned it up real good. The engine is spinning at ~3000 rpm on the highway, if it's overheating at that point with a fairly new (<1 year old) water pump, flushed radiator and block, and no thermostat I don't think it'd be a flow issue, at least at that point.
>>29066863I have no idea what im doing with this. Rebuilt flathead v83 on the tree trans4 bad tiresThree working drum brakesIt runs drives and stops.Got it for $1500 so no compaints.
>>29079411*sniff*
>>29079411>flatheadbasedyou did great
>>29079389More rpms=more heat=more flow needed.If you have basically an under-drive pulley setup than ya, that can be the culprit.
>>29078999The thermostat is there to regulate minimum engine temperature. Without it you should be running cold, all the time. Like not even hitting normal operating temp. Just puttering around at an idle you should be down in the 160° range.
>>29079514>>29079536see the thing that throws me off is that with the old heads and cam it wasn't overheating at all. But i'm not sure if that's just because the problem was being masked since these new heads flow so much more. The new cam is mild too, didn't want anything too crazy, my buddy calls it a bitch cam lol.
>>29079643but in any case i'm already replacing the water pump with the 8 blade one since that's apparently the one that's actually meant for my pulley.
>driving nova to the range with wife >bunch of guns and ammo in the car>reach up to adjust rearview mirror >*clink*>mirror comes unglued >siiiiiiiiiighhhhhh>make u-turn and go switch cars I already don’t have a passenger mirror, have a bug catcher sticking out of the hood and side pipe exhaust. Not having a rearview I felt was a bridge too far while riding dirty.
>>29079411>>29079412>flathead v8How unfathomably based of you
the new carb and alternator have been an absolute game changer, it runs and drives like a dream now.passed inspection and got a 28 ticket, the inspection guy didnt even check anything besides the brakes because he was so charmedfiatbros...we are SO back
What happened to that guy "Mr. Cummy Paws" who used to post here??
>>29079411you know there's an adapter kit online to put a s10 t5 behind flathead v8s, forget what it costed but it was what I really wanted to build.
What are the chances this is real? Seems like 1/3 the price it should be.
>>29079701He still posts but its sporadic.He'll go on a meth bender and post every 5 minutes for 3 days and then dissappear for a weak when he crashes.Just start a diesel thread to summon him.
>>29079643You might have just been at the limit of what your cooling system was capable of, without any true "faults" and running a slightly more aggressive cam was enough to push you over the edge.Underdive pulleys are hated by boomers from experiemce, not because new thing bad.
>>29079647why is having guns "riding dirty"
>>29079718Speedway and Flatattack were the one's I remember and I think Modern Driveline sells em now, too.
>>29079853cop dicksuckers are always afraid
>>29079760You guys were right; but at speed, it was also a timing problem with the vacuum advance. At idle, the temps will slowly creep up, no doubt caused by either lack of airflow and/or inadequate coolant flow. Easiest thing I can do now is try the correct water pump once it arrives, then if that still don't work, shroud.Before it was overheating on the highway keeping it steady at 3000 rpm doing 70 mph. Unplugged the vac advance and no more overheating. There's meant to be an internal allen key inside it to allow for adjustment, meant to take either a 3/32 or 3mm allen key but it seems to be slipping so I'm gonna contact the seller I bought it from.Otherwise,>initial timing: 16°>mechanical advance: +18° @ 2800 rpm>vacuum advance: approx. +20° @2800 rpmso cruising down the highway with strong vacuum my engine was seeing about 55° of advance and it was causing it to get too hot.
>>29080174>engine was seeing about 55° of advanceI dont believe it was.That would be pinging so hard I could hear it at my house.
>>29080374can marbles, salty coins etc etc.
>>29080374we used a digital dial-back timing light with the vac advance plugged and unplugged
>>29080683>plugged and unpluggedconnected and disconnected to ported*revved it up to 3000 rpm while doing so
>>29080374Eh, I've seen that on B/RB Mopars before when working in a shop. Came in for running hot on the highway, found total advance over 60 degrees at 2500 or so. No customer concern of pinging and I wasn't about to take that shitbox out on a drive. Cantankerous old coot probably would have had a cow about it too. Ordered another distributor and...SAME FUCKING SHIT. WTH! Guy had to go so I just yanked the initial back to where the total was merely in the low 40's there in the stall. The guy left and never came back so we could finish. He did call and say it wasn't running hot anymore and was happy enough. Never did have time to try and figure out what was up with those distributors. And this was long before China's rise.>>29080687>portedHave you tried manifold at idle? That 20 degrees could help there. You'll have to re-do idle speed and mixtures of course.
>>29081037i haven't, at the moment my idle vacuum seems to sit around 10-11 though, stock cam was like 17-19. not yet sure if it's due to the cam itself, or if it's just my carb needing retuning with the new cam.if i used manifold vac that'd mean i'd need to wind back the timing to like 10 or whatever right? then tweak it to work with the vac advance.
>>29081054>if i used manifold vac that'd mean i'd need to wind back the timing to like 10 or whatever right?Not necessarily. 36 degrees should be acceptable for idle so just swap it over and see what you think. It will hide the cam lope, but better that than overheating, though.
>>29081037forgot to mention, it does run quite cool when cruising on the street or the highway with the advance unplugged - like 70°C/160°F. it'll start creeping in stop-start traffic and will eventually overheat if it's stopped long enough but that's gotta be lack of coolant flow for which i've got the right pump on the way.but if it's otherwise running cool constantly, that'd mean it'd want more timing right? Since the ideal temp should be 82/180 and that's also what my thermostat is set at.
>>29081061oh right thanks. well i know it adds 20 at full vacuum, now i just gotta find out the vac-advance curve for it. it also seems like the adjusting nut inside the can is fucked, because i tried a 3mm allen key and it's too big, so i tried a 3/32 key but it seems to slip against something, as if it's too small.
>>29081063The only difference in timing that manifold makes is at idle. Once the throttle is cracked it's the same thing. Since it's hot at stops/idle trying manifold only makes sense. (it's also one of the tricks to keeping Vette's cool in parades)
>>29081067>Since it's hot at stops/idleit was also hot on the highway with the vac advance connected. that's when we did a bit more testing and figured that at 3000 rpm it was probably at 55 degrees at cruise.i honestly don't know if it's still too retarded in that situation, or too advanced. didn't hear any pinging (i think). my buddy seemed very confident that the rattling i was hearing was just valvetrain noise but i dunno...at the moment it's running quite rich but we haven't changed the jets or rods yet, only fiddling with the idle mixture screws.
>>29081094>my buddy seemed very confident that the rattling i was hearing was just valvetrain noiseDo you have bar-linked aftermarket roller lifters?Because you shouldnt hear jack shit from the valve train on a standard build.
>>29081172yeah they're hydraulic roller lifters
>>29081094>my buddy seemed very confident that the rattling i was hearing was just valvetrain noisedid it sound like a can full of marbles being shaken?
>>29081230oh fuck me i'm an idiot. it didn't sound like a can full, but it did sound like one of those newton's cradle toys very repeatedly, i think i agreed with what he said because it was happening regardless of load or throttle and didn't even think that it could still ping on decel.he's also been building engines a lot longer than i have but now that i think about it the experts can still get things wrong. probably doesn't help that he had a pretty nasty bike accident a few years back that more than likely messed his head up too, he often says X but means Y...>get me the uhh...the 1/2 inch wrench>...wut. that nut definitely looks a lot smaller than 1/2...>sorry...the uhh...fucken...the 1/4 inch
Swear to God I want nothing more than a 1969 Pontiac A-bodyI want to muscle it upI want to throw whatever V8 I can find into itI want put a floor shifter in itI want to scare every person I put in the passenger seatI want to install an inertia starter from a ww2 planeI want to drive my car in a desert wasteland I want zoomiesI want it and I need it before it become illegalalthough if it becomes illegal, you will have a blast of a body cam to watchmetal damage, brain damage
>>29079429>>29079682How do i tell what year and displacement this is?Im planning to keep it stock, I hear they run hot but its got the biggest radiator I've ever seen and an electric fan so it should be OK. Should I run coolant or just water?What type of gas should I be using?Ill do more research but I trust you guys more.
>>29081745Never run straight water.Coolant has rust inhibitors.Water transfers heat better than coolant so run what ratio is appropriate for your climate. If youre in San Diego, run 70% water/30% coolant.If youre in Siberia, run 30% water/70% coolant.
>>29079718>>29079900Thank you, once it brakes down I might redo the whole drive train and suspension. The steering is really terrible. As far as I can describe the steering column has a gearbox connected by a tie rod to one wheel which has a separate tie rod that spans across the car and steers the opposite wheel. This seems dangerous to me.
>>29081752Dammit I just checked and its got straight water in it right now. I read somewhere the general purpose green coolant would be ok to run. Any brands you recommend?
I need a cars from the 1960's and 1970's that are completely anti-muscle cars, with anti-muscle car designs, with anti-muscle car philosophies, and that are the antithesis of all those pieces of junk like the Challenger, the Mustang, the Camaro, the GTO, the Road Runner, the Barracuda and the Charger.
>>29081758What you desire is the elegant land yacht. Cadillacs, Lincoln's, Imperials, Chryslers...
>>29081745>How do i tell what year and displacement this is?Here's a neat little guide on HAMB.https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/ford-flathead-block-identification.594463/>I hear they run hot but its got the biggest radiator I've ever seen and an electric fan so it should be OK.Don't count on the radiator size alone, it depends more on the condition of the water passages. Still, if you have an electric fan, you should be fine regardless. If it doesn't have a coolant gauge for each bank, consider installing them, 'cause each bank works independent of the other and one side will almost always run hotter than the other, especially if one of the thermostats is stuck. Our flattie runs about 70c-ish on the left bank, and 80c-ish on the right.>Should I run coolant or just water?Use premixed IAT coolant; straight water will cause horrendous corrosion on the inside of the engine, and proper coolant has corrosion inhibitors to prevent this. I suppose you could also use concentrated coolant and mix it yourself, but you need to mix it with distilled water as using regular tap water will cause scale to form over time.>What type of gas should I be using?Our cheap gas is better than even the best pump gas found at the time these engines were being built, so they'll run on 87 just fine, but try to avoid gas with ethanol in it. Ethanol will eat any rubber that isn't rated for it, and it'll fuck up the seals and hoses in the fuel system in record time.
>>29081765You are a saint. Looks like I've got my work cut out for me. Thank you for all the advice
>>29081753I think you might come out ahead to just convert it to a front-steer manual rack, alot of those reman steering boxes never get right.in your setup you may have to have the spindles modified or just put the rack behind the beam axle and do rear steer.
>too depressed to wrenchgod, what a faggot i am
>>29081788No worries, don't forget to keep us updated :)
>>29081765Ethanol is a massive killer.I had a fuel pump "die" in a GMT400.Pulled it out and the pump worked fine but the rubber hose that went from the pump to the output port on the housing had turned into goo and was sitting on the bottom of the tank. Pulled out the goo and it hardened back up when it dried out.If its not designed for ethanol, pay the extra for whatever fuel in you area is ethanol free. My local gas stations only have ethanol free 93 but theres another station about 15 miles away that has ethanol free 87.
>>29081284maybe i spoke too soon...through the extremely loud exhaust i can barely hear an occasional rattle/clack...but it could just be the fuel pump pushrod or something, since it happens at any point the engine is running.Engine still remains at a steady 160°F when moving. It'll still very slowly climb up to 180°F in congested traffic but once moving cools right back down again.Wonder if the timing simply needed even moar advancing all this time...apparently B/RB engines like 56° total timing O.O
>>29082592>an occasional rattle/clackLink-bar lifters will be constant. Theyll always make the same sound at the same rpms. That fuel pump shouldnt make noise at all.160 is the lowest thermostat ive ever seen (never seen an application actually call for it). 180 was common with 195 being normal.200° is a good target for power and emissions. 230° is shutdown and call a tow truck time.
>>29082721Right. My engine/exhaust is still really loud at the moment so pretty hard to hear. Still quite a few things on the car I need to unfuck...
>>29082721alright so on the way to work this morning...yeah it's valvetrain noise. sounds the same at idle and at load etc.mayhaps the engine actually wants more timing then. waiting on the hand vac pump so i can figure out the advance curve.
>>29075143Built one on my garage. You'd have to be extremely careless to destroy an engine with contamination. Just prime the oil pump to make sure the oil galleries are nice and clean before assembling it and send it
>>29083290shit, you might need a Sun distributor machine
>>29083402Saw this post and was like "a-ha!! Ill show these whippersnappers..."Went into the quonset hut (not the asbestos one) and spent 10 minutes going "wtf, it used to be right here?!">It fell down behind one of the welders (the big lincoln).Havent used this thing in a quarter century and it was more of a "ya, thats what I thought it was doing" kind of deal most of the time.Pretty sure mopar bro would really appreciate this thing in his hands right about now...
>>29083412On a side note- I came across these that I bought back in the 90s and totally forgot what build they were suppose to be for.
>>29083414Sell those on the "American Classic Car's in the UK Spotted. And american cars for sale" facebook group and make a profit. Also, what are you doing up at this ungodly hour?
>>29083414Still shiny and look like I bought them yesterday.Hmm....Gotta pick someone to slap these on.They're v-belt. But then again so is most of my shit.Oh.I know.I was going to list a bunch of shit but im going back to my roots and my '66 that ive had since '92 is going to get these.
>>29083417I broke my toe 2 days ago so im drinking beer until the pain goes away and I can get some sleep.
>>29083418The '66 only has 3 pulleys BTW.>crankshaft>water pump>alternatorJust as God intended.
>>29083419shit, carry on. might want to down some single malt as well!
>>29083402>>29083412yes i would, god i fucking wish i had one, but doubt anyone has them or anything like it in aus. would speed things up so much.
>>29083446Pay for round trip shipping and you can borrow it.>its not the alcohol talking, shit still hurts.
>>29083456...eehhhh i think i'll just use the dial back timing light lol
>>29083446I was gonna say "dude, just hit up ebay".But this is the closest I could find.It really is a lost art
>>29083465You cant pull load revving in the garage. You can do a full 360° paint pen on the harmonic and use some TikTok phone mount and 5 bucks in zipties to hold a timing light under the hood to record a trip around the block i suppose.
>>29083480oh i was gonna use the hand vac pump (pic related) on the vac advance to see how much timing it advances
Stumbled across a thing at a book sale
>>29083446I'm on a faceberg group called "Vintage Sun Equipment" and I've seen a few guys from AUS selling working machines this year already. Lurk there and see, or hell, someone from Aus will have one and will curve your distributor for you.
>>29083939Nice, and about time you peeped back in. Any luck on repairs to the TR7?
>>29084209forgot about zuckbook groups, will check that out thanks
Whoever "fixed" this wiring by wrapping 17 feet of masking tape around it 30 years ago, I sincerely hope you stub your toe on every surface you pass. The adhesive has become a disgusting gooey mess, and I'm having to remove it small pieces.
>>29084441holy fuck hahahaha
>>29084441you know...my timing problem doesn't seem so bad now.
>>29084441If thats a turquoise '66 mustang, it was me.Sorry man. I was young and new to the game.
>>29084212Yeah I threw plugs at it, and a rotor and it seemed to be happier. Gotta replace the alternator again, but that part is under warranty (I fucked it up and knew the second I did it).The bike has been put down, so I just ordered shit for that but easy work and nothing crazy.Then the Jag is my real devil, I am trying to unfuck that thing before winter.Frankly maintaining a fleet of 3 sucks.
Hey is coastie still around? Had a question for him
>>29085375You are a bad person and should feel bad.>>29085415>Frankly maintaining a fleet of 3 sucks.I feel this in my soul. Proper 1st world problems, but there's always *something* that needs doing, and you never get time to relax. Even in your down time you're constantly thinking about what's next on the list.
update on the timing: wowee, i thought it might've been retarded. bumped it to 20° and it fucking loves it. temp gauge stayed completely steady at 70°C/160°F even after keeping it pegged at 120-130 for about 20 mins, previously the needle would just keep climbing slowly. Waiting quite a while at the off-ramp lights it didn't even move.Now time to test with vac advance plugged in. It's still running too cold, but at least it doesn't overheat now. Not enough time in the day to change out the water pump but making progress.
I got new seats from a W124 Mercedes for my 1977 GAZ-24 project car, but the issue is that they don't really fit due to being mounted on the floor on the Benz and the Volga having a heavy steel beam as a floor crossmember underneath the seat that goes from the door sill to the transmission tunnel, the original seats being mounted on metal brackets that are a good 5 inches off the floor pan.Is there any point in trying to replace the cross member either with a lower profile one welded from thick gauge steel in the original spot or moving the cross member, perhaps putting two in the tub in front and behind the drivers seat, or am I just going to fuck up the chassis rigidity completely?I'm personally leaning towards the latter option.
>>29088307I would never modify a chassis for seats.Just fab some scaffolding to mount the seat to.
>>29088310The issue is the new seats are too high if you install them anywhere else except the floor.Otherwise I would've made square tube scaffolding mounts for the seats.I'll probably try them with the scaffolding, which was my initial idea and see how it goes, if I can't fit between the wheel and the seat, these seats are a bust which is a shame because they're really nice MB Tex fully electric leather seats
>>29088316If i understand it correctly you just need some kind of spacer to get the seat high enough to clear the "hump" of the factory chassis brace?
>>29088330But then the seat is too high and be too tight around the steering wheel.That's why my first idea was to cut the cross member and maybe make a lower one or move it to get the seat lower so I can fit between the seat and steering wheel
>>29088335If you pull the brackets off the new seat can you kind of fake it and find a good position where it sits on the chassis brace (albeit shittily balanced) ?
>>29087243Pegged at 120????
>>29089170kphso about 80 mph
New tires make this thing look a lot betrer.
>>29088451That's the thing, it doesn't have regular "skis" like a normal seat because it's a mercedes seat, so it has legs going across the seat from left to right in front and in the back.Even when fully extended, the frame of the seat itself rests on the body crossmember without the legs touching the floor.That's the shitty part in the seat, the rails are side to side, not front to back and even though I cut the supporting beams of the seat legs going from the front foot to the back foot, the bottom of the seat itself hits the hump on the floor.This probably wouldn't be an issue in a manual seat as they sit on a scaffolding base anyway, but these are electric and the electric base is thick as fuck with all the motors in it.
>>29079689very nice. The new Fiats are so ugly, but that's a cute little car. Love the color too.
I am so tired of this... The original wiring is so faded and fucked that I can't trace or match them to the diagram, there are *live* dead ends in places, most of it is wrapped in a double layer combo of masking and electrical tape, some of it even bundled up into a massive electrical tape ball, and it's also a 50/50 on whether or not the insulated crimp terminals just pull off when I attempted to separate them. Ideally it needs a new wiring loom, but for now I'm just giving up and ripping out the section I'm working with, replacing the whole length with new wiring. I think I have some 7 core trailer cable I can strip and split into separate wires until I get a new loom. Oh, and as a bonus, my dad dropped and shattered one of the unobtanium tail ight lens, so I guess I get to trawl owners groups, clubs, and car shows for a spare.>>29089376Painting the wheels has made a *huge* difference there. You gonna paint the grille black again, too?
>>29089691>dropped and shatteredOuch.I can get both lenses and bevels (reproduction) for 50 bucks shipped.
>>29089691EBay for the lense and they make repo wiring harnesses if this is that 42-48 ford
I found a 1951 buick super for cheap that I was thinking of buying, picrel. Interior is all there, its got its drivetrain. Doesn't run but isn't locked up either, missing one of those triangle mirrors that I'm sure are unobtanium now. Rusty of course, but it's a Utah car so most of it looks like its just surface rust. Regardless, I've only ever worked on cars newer than 1990, all efi, only seen carbs at car shows and when I went to look at this car. I want to have a classic to work on, really like 50s cars (this is cope I can't afford 60s stuff), and also really want a straight 8. I know my way around a newer car, have rebuilt engines and fixed pretty much every part of a car before, so I'm not a wrenchlet. Do you guys think it'd be a good idea going for this buick, or should I find something cheap from the 80s thats still carbed to learn on?
>>29089910"Everything's there" on a '51 sitting outdoors means "you have cores for rebuild and fabric for templates".Thats not just swapping out parts from autozone to get it running. Youll have to go through the entire thing to make it reliable enough for a beer run.
>>29089736>>29089776It's a 1950 Ford Pilot, and the lenses are, as far as I can tell, specific to this car. I could be wrong, but the only similar lens I've found are eBay specials, but they're both too small and LED. As for the wiring harness, there's a company over here called Autosparks that make a full period correct cloth harness, but it's bloody expensive. I'm tempted to just make my own, but I'll burn that bridge when I get to it.
>>29089926>go through the entire thingThat's kinda what I'm hoping for. I should clarify I'm looking for a multi year restoration project, not something to just get running and drive. I mean shit its a '51 even fully restored its gonna suck to drive. I'm looking for something to do on weekends instead of chugging vodka and shitposting, so I don't mind it being a money pit that will take forever to fix.
>>29089928Sucks on the lens.I would think for the harness, even if youre trying to do a period correct restore- something from Painless would be a good enough start to build off of.
>>29089951People lose interest on a restoratuon that they spend years on and never get to drive. For a first time deal its enough to make you find a different hobby.Just commenting on historical fact here.It starts off fun but 5 years from now all you have are missing paychecks and half assembled components for a rusted hulk sitting in the driveway.
>>29089992Fair enough. I've already done a year long or so "restoration" (fuck paint) on a '90 f150, so it's not my first time with a long car project. Probably worth considering something nicer than this buick for a first classic experience though, especially cause I've never worked on something that doesn't have parts for it. Thanks for the insight.
>>29089928damn, can the plastic part be separated easily from the metal part? if it's the plastic part that's broken see if you got local plastic injection moulding shops near you. there's a few in my city that can make repros if you give them yours, even with some damage to them
>>29090111There is no plastic, what I'm holding is a whole one-piece glass lens, and that fits inside a chrome-plated steel housing, pic rel. The centre of the glass seems to have been tinted red (sprayed?) and the rest is clear to allow light to escape upwards and illuminate the license plate. I did look at some videos on YouTube on casting plastic lenses at home, but my dad has since got in contact with a bloke on an owners group, and it seems like he's willing to just give us a pair of lights that he took off his own car! Fair play to him, really feeling the community love~ We just have to hope and pray they don't get shattered in the post...
>>29090142Owners clubs are a God send.Dad borrowed my car one day (i think he had a flat and a dead spare) and loved it so much he went out and bought one.>low miles, "factory fresh" garage queen shit, way better than mine.Years later he got clipped and I was 1,500 miles away with work and couldnt help.That car is so pristine that we're not doing some chinese "just as good!" shit.Told him to make an account on the largest forum for our car that I frequented- tell them you're anon's dad and need a factory bumper and 2 tail lights.Member came back and said "ya I have a perfect OEM bumper in the rafters in the garage.Another member said "im pretty sure I have a pair of tail lights in the closet".Both came through with prices better than ebay chinkshit.
>>29089691Yeah painting the front black Is on my list.my wiring is really bad as well. Its been half redone just to get working i guess. I will fully rewire it once i get a fuse block and relay housings.
>>29090357would you consider a power distribution module? super expensive and probably overkill for a street car, but from what i've seen, makes wiring stuff in really easy. pdm connects to battery, then you can just add extra accessories straight to the pdm, which can act as a relay, fuse/circuit breaker all in one etc. you just go into the software for it and set whether it cuts power on an overload of whatever amperage you set it at, how many times to retry etc. very configurable.although that being said, it's also just nice having a regular fuse and/or relay setup that if anything should happen to it, you can just run to the parts store and get replacements just like that. haven't heard of these things failing or having issues but i'd imagine when they do it's not gonna be easy.
>>29090223Damn, your dad got very lucky there. I'm considering joining just on the off chance I get to repay the favour to someone else.>>29090357my wiring is really bad as well. Its been half redone just to get working i guess. I will fully rewire it once i get a fuse block and relay housings.Oof, good luck with that. Hopefully it hasn't been chopped and changed too much, 'cause dealing with someone else's bodges is not bloody fun.
>>29090594Just rip that bandaid off now.Why waste time dicking around with a fucked up harness and cracked insulation when you can just run a new harness on a saturday and be smooth sailing for another 50 years.Luckily cars are pretty generic. My car has an ignition switch and dash lights. Your car has an ignition switch and dash lights.This might seem overpriced for just some wire and a fuse panel but the time and headaches it saves is worth it over piecing one together yourself.https://painlessperformance.com/product/18-circuit-customizable-chassis-harness-part-no-10308
>>29090626the painless wiring kits are nice but when I was crimping up my buddy's one it was more of a pain in the ass because the terminals were sometimes way too big for the wires they needed to be crimped on. But my buddy's one was a part number that covered the chevy impala and a few other models that were built on the same frame so that might've been why.
>>29090628The trick would be to find the one closest to your application. Which could be a nightmare to figure out unfortunately.And it would probably be something like this.
>>29090579>>29090594I have two ideas right nowim used to dealing with CAN systems.and theres like 50 wires total on this car so it wont be too hardthe starter has its own independent relay that i will probably keep
>>29090888Put down the meth pipe and walk away from the car.
>>29090626>Why waste time dicking around with a fucked up harness and cracked insulation when you can just run a new harness on a saturday and be smooth sailing for another 50 years.I missed the>when quoting >>29090357, my wiring isn't quite *that* bad. It still isn't exactly pretty, but it is functional besides the 3 wires I'm dealing with, and replacing the whole harness necessitates the dash coming out and a few other bits and pieces pulling off, which will then no doubt turn into a 2 year "while you're in there" restoration. Simply replacing the wires that are stopping my tail lights from working will enable me to keep on trucking for now while I deal with the other vehicles on my plate. As for buying a premade harness, I'd want my new harness to follow the Lucas colour standard, and no doubt there are various bits and pieces I'd want to chop and change, completely wasting the point in buying a pre-made one. Wiring also doesn't actually bother me that much, so pre-made doesn't really hold much value to me.>>29090888I bought a Mk1 MX-5 interior fuse box to use in one of my now sold cars. It's pretty small and has plenty of fuse space, only problem was that the legend on the lid was all in Nihongo.
>>29091004>Lucas colour standardSmoke?
>>29091069Smoke
Ffs, why do the cars I want only appear when I don't have the money for them...?
>>29092176>1936
>>29092184>Advancement leads to stagnation.You could travel back in time and jump into a 1936 Ford at the dealer and drive it away. It would feel like a "normal" car.>Wright Brothers first flight at Kittyhawk:1903>First flight of the SR-71 airframe:196259 years.That was 64 years ago.
>>29092184Yeah, I don't know what's up with that either. Might be a boo-boo with the DVLA or something, they fucked up and lost a bunch of things in the early 2000's when records went digital.
Took me a solid hour or so just to properly trace and cut out all of this patch work crap. Luckily one of the longest sections was actually in very good shape, so I was able to reuse it.
>>29093169I was particularly impressed with the extended ground for the indicators, which was not only four times the size of the wire leaving said indicator every other wire, but also just wrapped around the bumper bolt and squashed beneath it's washer. Very cool.
>>29093169>>29093173Moving on to actually fixing this mess, my dad found a length of 7-core trailer cable he's been holding onto for god knows how long, and it split nice an cleanly.
>>29092230Well aware, I have a '34 3w hot rod. Though I would never call driving it ¨normal¨.My point was >>29092500
>>29093169>>29093173>>29093177The trailer wire got me 4/5ths of the way there, but I had to splice on that salvaged bit of wire I mentioned earlier. Luckily it's the correct colour and tracer mentioned in the diagram, so it's easy to keep track of. I also got rid of those awful Lucas bullet terminals, and am replacing them with modern 3-pin plugs to make removal of the rear lights much easier in the future. After I finish things up tomorrow, I can begin fitting the suspiciously cheap eBay electric fuel pump my dad bought, and job's a good'un.
>>29093177Oh, look at mister la-dee-dah over here using trailer cable instead of phone line or CAT5 like everybody else
>>29093240>phone line or CAT5 like that methed out owner of that busfixed
>>29093240Unfortunately I only have CAT6e, which seemed too fast for just lights. I'll consider using it for the HT leads, though, might speed up my spark.
It’s a good day today
>>29094295oooo it finally arrived
These bullet connectors suck ass, I can see why they disappeared.
Wiring all done and finished! Had a little hiccup with accidently wiring the indicators up wrong, but all's good now. Just waiting on the red tint for the new lenses, and then we can drive at night once more~
>>29090662oof, thought I had it bad with my 70's dodge pickup harness for $600. I'm still gonna do it I think, because fuck this whole shit, it already burned a wire once
>>29095418bypass that bulkhead connector with a 10 gauge wire. That bulkhead connector is awful for the amount of power that can flow through it. If your ammeter is the plastic one then the ammeter bypass is also worth doing. People also bypass it on earlier chrysler passenger car ammeters, but it's unnecessary on those; they're a lot more robust than people give them credit for.
tried tapping the cylinder head on the highboy and every half thread i tap just crumbles when i twist it further. god fucking damn it.
>>29090111just curious, how much did they charge you for repros?
>>29097644he's listing them for 150 AUD a pair, but for me i got the prototypes/first two sets for free in exchange for letting the guy keep the originals to use as a template as he never did that model before. they were heavily faded and UV damaged so i was more than happy to let him put them to use. Unless you got close enough to look for the original part numbers or other identifying marks, you wouldn't know they were repros. I was impressed with the recreations considering he was working with parts that had small chunks of them missing.
I need help CCG. I have a 1989 Mercury Grand Marquis GS and I believe the heater core needs to be replaced. There is a fast leak forming behind the passenger front tire. It forms when I turn the climate control on, whether that be the heater or the AC via the manual sliders. It does not leak when the climate control is off. There is some type of metal heat shield with a small hole in it at the bottom of the car (looks to have some type of rubber line in it) and the leak is making its way down that shield and through the hole. I did not run the heater long enough to see if I get window fogging; nor did I notice a wet passenger foot well and sweet smell. I checked the engine bay intake and outlet hoses on the firewall for the heater core and didn't notice and leaks around the connections.This past weekend I did a cooling system flush as the radiator fluid was dark. I did not drain through the engine block plugs (couldn't locate them) and did it through the radiator. I topped up with distilled water and ran the car for several minutes, with no climate control activated. I did this several times, and initially had to force bursts of air into the radiator to get a solid, fast flow from the petcock. After several flushes the amount of debris and buildup was becoming less in the catch pan. I then topped it up with more distilled water and turned on the heater to cycle the fresh fluid through the heater core. That is when the leak began.I knew this was a risk going the flush route instead of just a drain and fill. I gambled and it back fired. I've seen the Youtube videos as well as consulted the Haynes manual about replacing the heater core. I know it's a PITA because of how much of the dash needs to be taken out. Basically, I need your advice and likely confirmation that it's a heater core issue. >pic sorta related, looks like my car but isn't
>>29097896>initially had to force bursts of air into the radiator to get a solid, fast flow from the petcockHeater cores are incredibly fragile, and 40yo ones even more so, so it's a good bet that it did get ruptured when you were using air to try and clear a small drain.And on that note, in the future when having difficulty draining a radiator due to debris it would be better to remove the lower hose instead of trying to use air and water hammer to clear it. As for verifying the leak about the only thing that comes to mind atm is to clamp off the heater core hoses with something like picrel and see if the leak goes away. Or even just disconnecting the core and looping the hoses. Keep in mind it may drip slowly for a couple days after due to what would be in the heater case already
>>29097896I hear the 79-89s are easier to change the heater core before they redesigned the dash for the 90-91sGood thing I have a 91 with a leaky heater core lol
>>29098004Thanks anon. I've been reading about it and apparently too much air pressure could blow it out. I didn't realize how fragile a heater core actually is, and the age doesn't help. I didn't think to go through the lower hose at the time but looking back, I should have. Do you know, does coolant flow through the heater core continuously, or only when climate control is activated? I'm inclined to say it only goes through the heater core when climate control is on because that's when the leak happens. Otherwise not using heat nor AC doesn't cause a leak. If I disconnect the core and loop the hoses, is there a way to remove the remaining coolant from the heater core, like a specialty vacuum tool?>>29098102I found Youtube videos of guys with the style of car (e.g. Crown Vic, Town Car) who have taken the dash apart as well as old forum posts with tips & tricks but still they all conclude it's a major PITA. One thing I'm trying to figure out is, is that when you drop the steering column there is some kind of fragile part that can break easily and cause even more issues. I can't figure out what part they're referring to. Still though, when I take the dash apart I know to go slow and not brute force the plastic trim moldings as I do not want them to crack. I've already looked on eBay for replacement dash pieces (just in case) and none exist.
Last of the three amigos acquired.Pros->suspension and brakes seem fine>good bodywork>'box selects gears fine>turns overCons->doesn't run>flat battery>random things disassembled or removed>shitty paint>poorly reconnolised leatherArguably better condition than the last one, bit it's also far less special. Oh well~
>>29099146Knackered.
>>29099131Whelp, we can scratch "turns over" off the list, 'cause now it doesn't even do that. No power getting to the fuel pump, either, so fuck knows what's wrong with it. Fun times.
Christ, Rolls Royce wiring diagrams are fucking DOGSHIT. So many poxy variations and god-awful layouts that makes me want to strangle whoever printed this garbage.
>>29101318OI!!You got a loiscence for that diagram?!?!
>>29101412Yes bruv, paid a monkey and free tupence for it, I did.
>>29101318>>29101718i would like to see how dogshit these diagrams are.
>>29101740The blurriness isn't me, that's just how low the resolution is and it means I can't read anything, and I can't follow any individual wires to what they connect to, they just disappear into a big block deemed "wiring loom".
>>29101740>>29101869It's also spread out over 2 pages, and there is a very small gap missing in the middle when you put them together. I really don't want to source an OG workshop manual, 'cause they're a fucking fortune, but I think needs must at this point...
>>29101869>>29101872I no longer wish to see how dogshit these diagrams are.
>>29101902Same...
>>29101318mercedes is a little rough too if you have a low quality scanfollowing lines all across the page gets old thoughmakes you appreciate how good 80s gm service wire diagrams are
>>29102268I just don't see that there's any need to be so ambiguous, nor to stretch a single diagram across multiple pages. The car has a lot of wires, sure, but just split the various groups of related components and wires up into single page diagrams rather than just trying to cram it all on a single, larger diagram. My MGB wiring diagrams are great, as are the ones for the Ford Pilot, Morris Minor, and Vanden Plas, I see no reason why Rolls Royce chose to do things this way. Baffling.
>>2910269260s and 70s chrysler diagrams are alright for the most part. they actually look kinda similar to your pic in that they place components roughly where they actually sit in the vehicle (e.g. headlights at front, alternator at the front right as per where it actually bolts to the engine etc.) but they also seem to label the parts too so you know what they actually are (alternator, starter relay etc.)the only things that give me the shits is when a wire from one page goes into a splice the next and it isn't even labelled; you figure it out by noticing that the wires surrounding it have the same designations from the previous page while that one doesn't. Or when wire X12 on page 86 goes to wire J12 on page 87. wtf did it change letter ffs.
>>29103589>Or when wire X12 on page 86 becomes wire J12 on page 87fixed
>>29103589>the only things that give me the shits is when a wire from one page goes into a splice the next and it isn't even labelled; you figure it out by noticing that the wires surrounding it have the same designations from the previous page while that one doesn't. Or when wire X12 on page 86 goes to wire J12 on page 87. wtf did it change letter ffs.Jesus, that'd drive me nuts. Wonder if that was a conscious decision on their part, or just an oversight.
whats up with pre 69 continentals pulling crazy money?
>>29105683they're beautiful and they only made 30k a year
>>29105690We take a lot of things for granted when it comes to production numbers.We think "oh there was half a million Camrys made this year and thats just about as generic "car" as you can get so surely nice/cool cars had massive numbers".There was only about 11,000 1977 Cobra II's made.Triumph TR250 was something like only 8,500 made over a few years production run.
>>29105683i don't think they're crazy prices at all. I could only fetch $15-20k for mine. maybe. now look at the price of a rust-free mopar muscle car
>>29105920>triumph tr250>cool carLmao
>>29106387>france>cool deskLmao
>>29106169sold
fuuuu while installing the replacement vac advance can it fucking broke at the spot welds that connected the mounting bracket to the actual diaphragm can, so i jb welded it then it broke off after screwing it back on the dizzy. Guessing the plate flexed just enough to weaken the bond...
>>29106877RIP. Are you able to cut small channels into either part? Even lots of shallows cuts one with a razor will do - It'll give the JB weld a sort of ledge to grip onto, like in pic rel
>>29106879i should've done that...I thought sanding it with 400 grit sandpaper might've been enough ;-;i'm gonna try weld it with a regular welder, gonna dip the whole thing except for the part being welded in cold water, hopefully that should protect the diaphragm from the heat.
>>29103661Pic related. Maybe I'm retarded. but that splice at the center, with G1-18-BK and V1-16-P wires is the kind of thing i'm talking about. The split in the middle is because they were on separate pages. Might be 100x easier to see if it was in a physical book, but in a PDF it's definitely annoying to say the least. Everything else is great though.
>>29106939nvm, i was able to chisel off the jb weld, scored the fuck out of the surface making a cross-hatch pattern. hopefully it sticks this time.
>>29106942Nah, I get you. Like you say, on one page would be fine as it's easy to follow, but turning a page is like when you walk through a door and forget why you're there, your brain just kind of resets, making it even more confusing.>>29106972God speed, anon. I pray for your success.
