starting a new one since the last one is reaching limitI recently bought myself a new softbox, the exact one in pic, and it works surprisingly well. The issue is that it won't stay open all the way, so I need something to prop it open. I've found that using a credit card and ID card work pretty well, but I don't plan on using that for obvious reasons. Anyone have any suggestions to help a retard like me, something light and small?
>>4502821Following up for >>4502625This was taken on a D810 with a 17-35mm f2.8. 12 year old body with a lens that came out +25 years ago, and you can have both for under $1k. There are dozens of bodies and lenses that would perform just same or better for that kind of shot, so neither of those really matter that much. Any FF with a 17mm lens will give you the same perspective (or APSC with like 11mm). What would matter a bit more for this shot gear-wise is the lighting. The photog would've had the camera set up, with 2-3 off camera flashes, all connected by wireless trigger (like a PocketWizard). You can gel flashes to give different color, Benoit Paille is a good example of this and used to be the subject of many threads here, but I don't think that's what's actually going on.https://gbuffer.myportfolio.com/off-seasonI'm unsure for the lighting of the building, the area as of 2023 on street view had no lighting infrastructure, and its possible it was the moon, but could be another light source like car lights. The exposure was 10 seconds, so you're getting all that ambient on the building, while only exposing the foreground with the flash. Different lighting sources explain the difference in color and softness vs hardness of the light. Most of the color look probably just comes from long exposure at night + flash. If you wanted to recreate the color shifting aesthetic, something likehttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SYVvChotk1ousing radial and linear gradients in Photoshop is an easy way, and a technique used by our own 5hoeThe location is about 8 miles off the coast, so you're seeing dense costal fog. This helps with the "atmosphere" of the photo, and contributes to how the light glows (just like "foggy streetlights"). Picrel is the same scene, but with less fog.So basically, got out on a foggy night, use long exposure for soft ambient glow, with flash for for a harsher different color lighting in the foreground.
What do I need to get set up for developing orthochromatic film at home?
>>4503062A darkroom and redlight if you want to do it by inspection. Otherwise the standard paterson daylight tank will do you fine. Ortho is developed with exact same process as pan films.
I'm an amatuer photographer, I have an 800D, an 18-55mm f/4-5.6 kit lens, a ~20 year old ultrasonic 55-200mm f/4.5-5.6 lens, and a super cheap 420-800mm vivita f/8.3-16 lens I use for the moon.Should I replace my camera with a full frame, or get a better macro/zoom lens(replacing the 55-200mm)
Is it safe to go jogging/running with prosumer full frames and lenses? Anyone do it?
>>4503546Your camera is good if you don't shoot video, anything that demands high burst rates or fast subject detection autofocus. The jump to full frame might help if you shoot portraits or in dark. If you crop your photos all the time then having more megapixels will have its benefits.I made the jump from 200D to R8 and in hindsight I shouldn't have. The marginal benefits in fringe cases do not justify spending some 2000 eurobucks on RF-mount lenses and the camera.Your lenses are slow and prioritize covering all focal lengths, I'd get something faster like 50mm f/1.4, 50 mm f/1.8, 40 mm f/2.8, 135mm f/2, 70-200mm f2.8 or 70-200mm f4
What are you supposed to photograph on overcast cloudy days when there's no interesting light? Does using black&white or a digishit help?
>>4503546>800DThat thing is junk. Buying a proper camera like a nikon dslr or 90s would go almost as far as getting a proper ff. t. Sufferer with a 5dii just to experience how bad low DR cameras are. Yeah, they’re shit. Might as well use a phone. I have no idea how canon got away with selling this trash. Corporate contracts?
Aw man, I made a cool banner for the next sqt and instead I decided to suck ass and go outside to take photos today.The lesson is, stay inside.>>4503546Can you explain in your own words what makes you want to "upgrade"? Asking a bunch of gearfags on /p/ will result in wildly different responses. Macro is actually better served by APS-C than Full Frame. The EF-S 55-250mm f/4-5.6 IS STM would be the best telephoto for your DSLR and can be had for like $150; would be a good upgrade over the 55-200mm by a fair margin. As for macro I'd just rip the bandaid off and get the EF 100mm f/2.8 IS USM Macro as it is THE best macro lens for Canon except the 3x the price RF version, and can stay with you if you do change to Full Frame anyway.If you actually want to go full frame then just get a 5DIV or 6DII. There's no big reason to jump to mirrorless unless money is no object.
>>4503644It should be illegal to recommend the 6dII. That camera is ACTUAL shit. The RP is the same shitty 5dii-tier ewaste sensor and yet better just because the 6D2’s OVF autofocus is so dogshit even low end mirrorless is an upgrade. Its also nearly the same price as a used 5div from a non-delusional seller. Fun fact: the 6d2 was named the worst camera of the year repeatedlyIf you are considering any canon that isnt a 5div, 90d, or dirt cheap 5ds you somehow need, get a nikon DSLR instead. Canons sensors are just bad and they derived most of their sales from pre-internet consumer cluelessness, product placement, and having the only good tech support service for professionals. Not from the actual cameras being bangers.
>>4503660first to market with widespread and useful lens stabilization too. first to market with quite a few lenses nikon got second. it mattered then. it doesnt matter now.
Which strap would be best for carrying a 4lb setup around for long periods? I've been using the straps that come with the camera and they're uncomfortable after a short period. I also like to wrap a portion of the strap around my wrist as insurance when the strap isn't on my neck, which may be harder with the thicker strap. The first strap seems like a different experience all together.
>>4503628I was thinking of doing an upgrade to a full frame DSLR like a 5D mark III or mark IV. So the price id pay wouldn't be much when I sell the camera.For lenses should I stick with namebrans canon lenses or are 3rd party lenses better bang for buck? I mostly take pictures of landscapes, nature, and things of that sort.
>>4503644Upgrading the lens because it's 20 years old and I wanted photos that were more crisp, however my current lens can't be sold for much,My camera can be sold and would cover a lot (hopefully) of the cost of upgrading to a full frame. I was thinking 5D mark III or IV.I wanted to upgrade to a full frame because of poor low light performance. But I felt it was a non issue I was making a big deal of so I thought I'd ask.Money is an object so I was wondering which one I should do first because I do plan to do both.
>>4503643Its just a camera, stop acting like a nigger and calm down
>>4503744>Money is an object so I was wondering which one I should do first because I do plan to do both.The lens makes the photo, and the camera turns it into a file. Mostly. Sensor size, quality, and pixel density are also factors that are important for end image quality.All that is to say, going full frame is king if you can justify the price, size, weight, and lens prices (aps-c lenses typically cost less). The shittiest, smeariest FF lens on a FF camera is going to btfo everything except the best crop lenses on a crop camera, H O W E V E R, the ceiling for IQ on a crop camera isn't too bad for most users.>I wanted to upgrade to a full frame because of poor low light performance. But I felt it was a non issue I was making a big deal of so I thought I'd ask.Full frame absolutely is the ticket for this kind of shooting. Like I said, get the cheapest lens and a FF body and it'll be better (and perhaps cheaper) for this. The other route is getting super bright aperture crop lenses which are A) niche and expensive, and B) still cap out around 15mm aperture diameter such as on a 24mm f/2(12mm). It's total aperture diameter that improves low-light gathering ability, not f/ratio, and if you slap a FF lens on crop you discard the outer 40% of light anyway (thus putting your "effective" f/stop 1+1/3rd slower). All this math is to say even a cheap 50mm f/2 prime gives you 25mm aperture diameter on FF, combined with the bigger pixels (because 24MP spread over a larger sensor means the pixels have to be larger compared to crop) means Full Frame all the way baybee.
>>4502821What is the cheapest, but still reasonably functional video monitor I can get for my Nikon Z6?I just want a preview window that is a bit larger and can be positioned on a simple rig. If it could take Nikki n batteries that would be great, but not at all necessary.
>>4503782>Nikki nNikonFucking touchscreen
>>4503761I'm convincedBut what camera? Is the 5D mark IV my only option?
>>4503867D600 (cheapest weather-sealed fullframe)D610D800 (cheapest "pro" fullframe)D810or D750, D780 or D850 if you like wasting money
>>4503867Canon 5D lineup, with the Mk I being the "muh film experience" version, the Mk II for best price:value, Mk III you avoid, and Mk IV being the most modern.6D Mk I is a valid 5D Mk III alternative. 6D Mk II I wouldn't spring the money for and the sensor ain't amazing.You could also go uber-chad and get a 1DS Mk III but they're pretty fucking big and will cost extra. No practical point but it's based.Also Nikon exists I guess.
>>4503920Why avoid mark III?
Does stabilization actually allow you to capture more detail when taking photos, or is it "guessing" and filling in detail based on an algorithim?
>>4503927ai mindbroke you. you just got paranoiamaxxed by a computer programmed to shitpost. you are so chopped. you dont just have negative rizz – you’re getting cortisol spiked by a piece of software that generates goon material for furries. Anyways, yes, you are wrong. Stabilization moves the sensor to track the image. It does not just not involve AI – it is based on gyroscope data.
>>4503927If we're talking about cameras, it's neither. Your hands are shaky and the camera sensor (or the lens elements) shake to compensate for your shaky hands. The resulted photo has less motion blur, just like when using a tripod. If we're talking about phones, it's probably cropping your photos with digital stabilization, then combines a bunch of photos using only the good parts of each photo and then finally applies the guessing work.
>>4502821>something light and small?paper towels
>>4503927What do you think stabilized binoculars or gimbals do? With IBIS and other physical stabilizing, it's just movement to compensate for movement.There is digital stabilization, both in-camera or in post, but those rely on cropping in, and essentially losing information as a result.At no point in either case is new or false information filling in.
I'm looking to buy my first camera. Other then IBIS, Crop vs Full frame, Megapixel/Max Resolution, ISO noise level, and the specs of the on body display screen, what should I be looking for in a camera?Is the level of noise at a given ISO level something that's quantified? If so how
>>4504027You can look it up on either DXO or photons to photos. If you're getting an interchangeable lens camera then you'll also want to look at what's available and the cost, for example Canon's RF mount you don't get the cheaper third party offerings that you do on the other mounts but at the same time they have some unique offerings (as do the others) that might appeal to you.
>>4504027It says Canon, 5D, and Mark IV on the body
>>4504042>dslryikes
>>4504027The price, weight and form factor, the quality of EVF/OVF or just a display screen. Shutter count that's preferably less than 30 000 if you're buying used cameras...I don't quite understand the other question, but there are camera models where ISO3200 is very much usable and others where ISO3200 is unusable because of noise. Having higher or lower base ISO (the lowest sensitivity = maximum detail) has more implications than just going to very high ISOs you're never going to use.
>>4504080>yikesyikes
>>4504080>AI in the EVFbig yikes
>>4504102>Having higher or lower base ISO (the lowest sensitivity = maximum detail) has more implicationsLmao, noThere is no meaningful difference between 50 and 200 ISO.
>>4502821Bough a camera for cheap because it has a scratched OLPF (I assume it has one, it's a Fuji X-T2.)It's 24MP, so can I just take it off and shoot with no worries? I assume it won't suffer much from moiré patterns because of the MP count.I've read some OLPFs have IR-cuts and such integrated and without the OLPF it can damage the sensor. Is that true? Will I have to put some protector filter on my lens to compensate or what?
What's a reasonable quote for the following gig? It's not hypothetical, I just did it. It was my first job. I had no frame of reference but having completed it, I feel like I severely under-quoted. I got paid $3000.>Corporate gig at a luxury resort>3 days (10 hour day, 13 hour day, 5 hour day)>Described as a typical "corporate event" and became every type of photography imaginable (candid, posed, individual, groups, conference halls, literally on a boat, live events, an "award show," a "fashion show") - I did not do an adequate job getting specific job requirements>Paid my own hotel and travel (driving 300 miles total)>Mainly photo with some video>Was promised food but worked through my meal multiple times ("I know you just got your food (which we ordered for you last because you were taking photos of everyone else being seated and eating) but the awards are starting, you'll have to eat after" -> my food sits for 2 hours -> my food was thrown away -> I'm a pussy who didn't stand up for myself)So ignore where I have no spine, let's say I am fully prepared to take on the hours and the workload. What would the quote be? Honestly I'm glad I had a difficult experience to learn from.
>>4504302>28 hours of labor>Hotel + travel time / expenses>Got Treated Like Shit TaxI would work out to be something like>$40/h x 28 for labor (gear costs, skillset, variation of job)>+$400-750 for hotel expenses >+$0.5/m = $150 for driving>+$20 x 2 (meals) x 3 (days) = $120 for meal allownace (they didn't let you eat, but I imagine you had dinner or breakfast outside the venue)>+10% because they were dickheads (just list this as a job fee because you missed other work)I'd put it to just under $2k with my math, but I don't know how expensive your hotel was, your meals were, what you paid for gas, or how important your time is. Personally, I'd still be pissed at them for being such wankers and not explaining expectations better, and for expecting me to work through breaks and slap them with some dumb +25% surcharge.Now the golden question is... Why the fuck didn't you work this out upfront and have a contract of services? Even a basic one written in Word would have been a good idea. Set some basic rates and expectations for this kind of contract work.
>>4504302$3-5k + lodging + travel fee is reasonable on the low endIt's good to have food included in your contract (depending on what you're doing), but the cost of a missed meal isn't really something you should be considering in compensation, thats cringe$100-150/hr is more in line for quick ballpark of low end stuff.
>>4504318Oh, obviously super depends on deliverables and ownership / licensing tooBut that's assuming just standard xxx amount of pictures from 3 days of shooting, for use for a certain period of time, retaining ownership and raws, etc
>>4504318$1000 a day for a first-time photographer? Pulling standard-ish hours?USD not pesos right?Idk mang seems a bit much. Established with a portfolio and semi-regular work patterns? Yeah, of course.
Why does a tripod collar have to cost $125?
>>4504325For a full day shooting, with travel, $1k a day is very reasonable Entry level wedding togs start at like $1.5k now, and you can charge $3-5k with minimal experienceWhen I started paid stuff, I started at like $150ish for 90min senior sessions, or $250 for 2-3hr concert, and that was 15 years ago with a D60/D90, now my 1hr sessions usually start at $400
Why does every mirrorless, dslr and film fanboy have their panties in such a big bunch about the other two types being inferior?
>>4504370Because these people don't take photos.Or if they do take photos (of a cat or something at most), they have to feel like they made the right choice and [saved money | improved their gear]Ignore the faggots. You don't see people sucking themselves off over what hammer they used to build a bench.
I recently bought a Konica/Minolta 7D sold as "will only take black pictures".I knew about the camera for a long time and was aware of the common FFB (firsat frame black) fault in which the curtain wouldn't open on shutter release.Turns out it works just fine mechanically, which is both good and bad.Upon closer inspection, I noticed a faint blue stripe in one of the images and amplified it, resulting in pic related.Anyone here knowledgeable in CCD sensors who could tell me what causes such images?
Hey /p/ I'm doing a personal project where I'm going to self develop black and white 35mm film to make microdots, an old stenographic technique that allows for shrinking down pieces of text to microscopic size.The problems I'm encountering is I'm generally unsure of what kind of film camera to buy for this kind of shooting, as most resources online are aimed at photographic shooting, rather than archival and experimentation.My budget is around 500AUD, if you have any recommendations or general advice, I would appreciate it.
Which one looks better?
>>4504424Whatever modern camera has the features you need, something like F90 or other stuff from that era. They're cheaper than the fully mechanical ones and have all the fancy stuff like AF, metering or PASM. Some may have some limitations with older MF lenses, so if you want e.g. the 55mm AI macro with it, make sure your specific combination will work for you.
>>4504473Everything between -3 and +2 is acceptable. It kinda depends on the mood of the scene and the use case. -3 is dead wife flashback in movie tier and +2 is pharmaceutical ad kinda stuff.
>>4504531Should I keep it at -2 for street and portaits? I aim at 90's film and 00's fashion look
>>4504473+1 for sure
https://www.tjlvn.com/blog/automotive/all-analog-classic-cars-and-filmHow do I make this kind of pictures with just a digital cemara? Can it be done in camera settomgs or post-processing only?
>>4504569Doable with many camera and lens options, with at least a little bit of editing.For the physical aspect of the look>use a fast normal lens with good bokeh on ff or apsc, like between 35mm and 65mm and f1.4ish>use a tele lens and brenizer method>use ai generative fill>use 1/8 mist filter to ease the highlights For the colors and tones>find a preset you like that looks close>learn how to edit colors yourself>make your own preset with current match look or ai tools>use one of the many online tutorials for how to make a portra 400 presetGood luck, I believe in you
Can you do macro without a macro lens?
>>4504594yes, with extension tubes
What is the best looking preset here?https://nikonpc.com/I think I like the Rose Curve and Fuji Velvia.And where can I find more presets for NIKON?
How do I find free RAW and NEF files online? When I'm trying to find woman portraits in raw format Google gives me porn and in JPEG
>>4504594>>4504610You can also handhold your lens backwards to get macro with some lenses
>>4504618make your own with their programor switch to a raw program and use the hundreds of tutorials online to make presents that will work for any camera you get, not just nikon>>4504640more snapshot portraits, but DPReview sample galleries for bodies or lenses (not studio tool), usually have a few pics of people with link for the raw
I have an old Canon EOS 1000D from back in the day that I really never use. Mainly because it's so bulky I can't be arsed to carry it around. My question is, could you get decent photos from cheap cameras such as this? This currently sits at 20€ in a local auction. I'm looking for something dirt cheap that can fit it my pocket. I haven't taken a photo for many years unless you count phone pics.
>>4504660If you want a separate camera and by decent you mean okay, sureThe retail market for these old compacts died for a reason
>>4504661Cool, thanks. I'll see if I can win any auctions then. For once, I'd much rather start with something cheap and see if I enjoy it before opening up my wallet. >The retail market for these old compacts died for a reasonDid they never progress beyond "meh" or is there another reason?
>>4504662>Did they never progress beyond "meh" or is there another reason?The reason is in your pocket. Sure there's Ricoh GR and Sony RX100 that shoot RAW probably outperform most phones.
>>4504594>>4504610Extension tubes are fine unless you need a flat focus plane (i.e. digitizing film). In that case, better buy an actual macro.
>>4504662PhonesThose existed when there weren't other options for a digital compact cameraThere is no like cheap new compact market now, you have options for extreme weather sealing / kid proof, or expensive but better than phone
>>4504658>DPReview sample galleriesThanks! Got any more websites like this every photographer should know?
If your camera weighs 700g and your lens 1,180g, how do you attach your strap? One on the camera and one on the tripod foot? How do you attach the strap to the lens if the collar has no anchor spots? Both ends attached to an anchor plate attached to the bottom of the foot seems like it would be incredibly awkward to balance.
Are the cheapest UV filters going to affect image quality if I just want to protect my front element from salty/wet beach air? Is there going to be a real difference between the $10 and the $32 filters?
Is it ok to remove objects in Photoshop to achieve better composition? Let's say I don't like 1/10 of my photo. I'm not associated with Magnum Photos
>>4504860Regularly do this with just a basic neck strap on both camera lugs. Just sling it underarm style instead of off your neck, so your shoulder carries the weight and your arm protects the gear from being whacked.>>4504949Yes. Avoid the cheapest shit or you'll end up with a smeary layer over the top of your photo. I pay about $20 for the most basic filters I'm happy with
>>4504860I use the Peak plate. I anchor one end of the strap to the left side of the camera body. I anchor the other end to the left side of the plate. I wear the strap cross body over my left shoulder with the camera resting on my right hip. The trick is, you need to wear the camera "upside down", in that the left side of the camera body is touching your body, with the lens side facing the ground. Then it's simple to grab the camera grip and raise it to your face. I was doing this with a 2kg total 70-200 setup for days with no problem.
How can I tell if my pictures are shit?
I have a Sony a6000 and want a lens that can do "everything" so that I don't have to change my lens all the time when out traveling. I want to go for simplicity as I'm not that much into photography. It's more of a hobby for me. Which lens should I get?I have looked at Sony E PZ 18-105mm F4 G OSS as an option. The constant F/4 and Power Zoom is nice when doing video, but is there any other lens you could recommend in the same price range?
>>4502821Im a n00b that likes to buy and sell stuff off of craigslist marketplace and I've been very casually shooting landscapes. I been trying to shoot in direct sunlight on a d300 but I just can't get enough dynamic range out of it so all the shaded spots come out barely legible. I can't even do bracketed shots because for some reason I can't shoot continuous (option is greyed out and dial doesnt move). The other dslr I have is an olympus evolt 330 but Im not really satisfied with the pictures that takes either. All I really want to do is set ISO/Aperture and point and shoot so I was wondering if a full frame sensor would help me out in that regard or there is some skill issue at work here.Also what is the cheapest decent full frame camera? I think between the 2 of my dslrs I could get around $260 and then I was between buying a nice canon 5d mk2 or a beat up a7 mk1 because they are roughly the same price on marketplace right now (would want to spend ~300).god fucking damn these captchas are hard as shit
>>4505444If dynamic range is your issue then the A7 beats the 5D II, plus you'll be able to adapt any F mount lenses you have (they can be adapted to EF mount too but I don't think with AF). You've also got slightly more resolution, better AF, a higher res tilting screen, and slightly faster burst shooting if that's something that matters to you. You've also got a whole bunch of decent but cheap E mount lenses to choose from, mirrorless ones really have improved a lot since the DSLR days.Upsides of the 5D are significantly better battery life and the ergonomics and controls. However seeing as you're not wanting to play around with settings much and just want to stick in in aperture priority and shoot (don't worry about ISO, just set it to auto) the A7 wouldn't be too bad. And batteries are cheap and small so you can carry a spare or two if needed.
>>45054445D2 has similar DR at lower ISO's to your D300an A7 might add a stop or two, but bracketing can add as many stops as you wantIf you can't figure out bracketing on your D300, you should give up using cameras nowAre you shooting RAW and following ETTR? I'd not, you aren't getting the most out of your camera to bring withIf you fix how you're shooting, might not need to upgrade at all
>>4505444Both of those cameras are pretty bad. The a7mk1 has poor durability, very poor battery life, worse autofocus than a dslr, and is prone to developing light leaks at the mount. The 5dII is basically micro four thirds quality in a large full frame body and the af and firmware are really bad. You have already dealt with a vintage lomography toy. Do not spend money on more of the same. The d300 is no better or worse than most older cameras. Its just a different flavor of sorta shit. The a7 would have a much better sensor but worse everything else. Either buy the canon 5div, a decent nikon like the d750/800/810/850, or leapfrog to later mirrorless. The nikon z6 and z7 have sorta shit AF (it is not actually that much better on the version two models) but better everything than an old snoy. The z5ii and zf are modern but sorta compromised (you dont get the best AF, you get sensor level compatibility with vintage film lenses instead like a budget leica m11). Sony bodies from the a7c onwards are all good. Canon models r7/r8 and better are all good. If you cant afford good mirrorless you cant afford mirrorless unless you are happy to sidegrade to a micro four thirds like the OM-D E-M1 II (IQ not far off from, and often better than a d300 with body features close to a modern full frame). I recommend saving your money for a few months instead of blowing $300 on relatively no change.
>>4505493>dont upgrade, bracket!The wind blows. Things move. Things are alive. This cope is retarded. Even with a VR lens handheld bracketing doesn’t do much good. A totally static scene, base ISO, and a tripod are required to add a noticeable amount of DR, and then a competent raw processor to merge to a good HDR DNG. It’s not even a cope.
>>4505505Simply find inner peace and any camera is le sufficient. Shut your eyes, press the button (award), and slather vaseline on your eyes. The true path upsets the gearfag.
>>4505555thisbest pics I ever take were on accident
>>4505555not very gearfaggy if camera IQ starts nearing a plateau with used FF DSLRs in the $350-750 range innit
>>4505560Now just imagine if you got one of those and applied good shooting techniques and processing
>>4505564you dont really have tobracketing tripodfaggotry to add more DR than current cameras have looks uncanny and only works on rocks and leaves anyways
>>4505570>to add more DR than current camerasWho said more> looks uncanny If you do it poorly, yesDo you think shooting RAW and ETTR is also just cope?
>>4505575>comparing lame HDR merges to not underexposingYou definitely photograph dogs
>>4505444Bring up the exposure for the shadows, without clipping the highlights. Bring the highlights down in editing. The end.
do you ever delete photos? i found an old sd card with 3000+ photos on it and some of the photos are so fucking cringe and i'm so ashamed of them they could probably be used to blackmail me but i still can't bring myself to delete them
Super specific questionI have an old nikon coolpix L10 that has issues with the battery cover. I replaced them but when I turned it on I suspect that the batteries left their place so the lens came out but it didnt turn on. Now it wont turn on and the lens is outisdehelp me /p/ros
>>4505493I physically cannot move the dial to continuous to shoot a bracketed shot. I bought the d300 for really cheap so Im not surprised that one of the dials is completely broken. My main point is mostly that I don't want to take out and set up a tripod whenever a shot has a slight amount of dynamic range. Its annoying and its just another bag to carry around in the blistering heat. Also I shoot raw and it does retain a little bit more of the lowlight details but I don't want to have to go in and manually adjust every photo I take. Im willing to pay slightly more for the convenience.>>4505504Ive never really had any issue with autofocus on any of my cameras so I dont think software being the same level of ass would affect me. That being said, if the a7 physical durability is just that bad, then I wouldn't mind spending more on a slightly nicer a7 or a7ii not owned by a retard. I will keep a lookout for a good deal on a nikon z5 though.
>>4505649and its making sounds
>>4505652If you can up your budget to a II or newer then that wouldn't be a bad idea, that gets you better ergonomics as well as IBIS. The latter means that for photos with stuff that doesn't move much you can use a slower shutter speed and thus a lower ISO, which gives you more dynamic range. Also the III or newer has much better battery life.
>>4505649>issues with the battery coverElectricity can only have so many things wrong in such a small place. Explain the battery cover issue you had for me. Was the cover just locking in place, or did you just guess that was the issue at first?>the batteries left their placeAs in, they're moving around and not staying in contact? There's an easy test you can do which is ball up a bit of tinfoil and use that between the camera contacts and the battery terminals to take up any potential slack. I wouldn't do that as a permanent fix, but some have for years and never had issues. >Now it wont turn on and the lens is outisdeIt might not be turning on because of said lack of proper contact between the battery and housing. It also might be cooked. That'd be odd unless you had serious electical demons fucking with you. OR you were retarded and put the batteries in wrong way around; that can absolutely fry an electronic without decent protective circuits. Considering it's a budget camera from 20 years ago, it might not have great protections and could possible be proper fucked if you did in fact do that.IF you weren't braindead, you could likely push the lens back in firmly yet slowly. Don't try and force it, as some lens mechanisims won't want to and you could just break something, but a lot of cameras and lenses I've used over the years don't have any issues doing so. Just be slow about it. That being said, I would ignore the lens issue until you tried the battery tests/fixes because in all likelyhood the lens will just cycle back into the camera when it gets correct power.I'd also buy some proper lithium AA batteries because cheap chinese carbon-lead bullshit might just not cut the mustard for the device.
>>4505741It uses aa batteries, the cover is like a spring locked cover but its not closing all the way now so I've been using ducktape for that. I assume that when I turned it on, I moved it too much and the battery stopped making contact. The first thing the camera does is take the lens out, before it turns on the display. I tried moving the lens but its locked in place. The batteries work, then I put them on correctly the camera detects them but its like bricked. It makes sounds when I put on the batteries too. I guess it's fucked
>>4505741>>4505785Nevermind, it was the shitty batteries
How do I learn editing? I thought I'm doing great with this one but then I realized it might be too much
When I apply a camera matching profile to my RAWs, they look so much more yellow than the sooc Nikon JPGs or the Adobe equivalent RAW profiles. Why is that?
>>4506049Camera profiles aren't the same across software.Sometimes manufactuers share things like distortion data but in terms of color processing most software vendors make their own shit up.I could put my RAW in DPP4, LR, and C1 and get three different looking photos right off the bat.
