The depth of field is related to two factors: 1) the size of the circle of confusion and 2) the pixel pitch on the sensor. the bigger the CoC the smaller the DoF. the smaller the PP the smaller the DoF.So, is it safe to say, that a FF sensor with 16um PP has the same DoF as a MFT sensor with 4um PP?
>>4529944It's CoC and sensor size and not CoC and pixel pitch.
>>4529944If you want blurry backgrounds on M43 then buy a bright telephoto or shoot up close.
>>4529944That's not DoF, that's diffraction. DoF depends on focal length, aperture and distance to subject.
ofc given, that the lenses on both sensors are equivalent in every aspect ...
and what I seek is the widest depth of sharpness with the highest resolution possible. so propably the opposite of what you all look for. I need images sharp from lens to horizont. (no macro tho)
>>4529954Use any camera with a tripod and stackInfinite resolution and infinite DoF
>>4529954I cannot bother to do the computations and data mining necessary to help, but first of all you need to state what you actually want to do, because your question doesn't make much sense to start with. Dof vs resolution is a zero-sum game: the highest the resolution, the smallest the Dof. So there is no such thing as an objectively best compromise, it depends on how much you're willing to compromise on one or the other. As the previous poster pointed if you use a tripod you can get infinte Dof with stacking so you could just buy the highest resolution camera. If not and you still want f64 sharpness, then you need to define what is the lowest resolution you're willing to deal with.
>>4529959>tripod and stacking>literally anything moves a little bit>entire photo full of blurry artefacts and stacking halos
>>4529954Get a technical camera. Used properly it can help you get everything in focus at lower f stop.
>>4529944This is a nifty website for comparing DoF across sensor size, focal length, and aperture, when controlling for the same subject size.http://howmuchblur.dekoning.nl/#compare-1x-50mm-f2.8-and-2x-25mm-f1.4-and-1x-50mm-f8-and-2x-25mm-f4-on-a-0.9m-wide-subject>>4529994Sure, if you have lots of movement, just go deeper DoF on the lens so you can stack less (or none at all).For stitching (to get infinite resolution), movement is actually rarely ever an issue in practiceIt's okay, if you practice some more, I believe you can get there! Learning is part of the fun!
>>4529997>Person walks across frame >"that's okay I can time the frames to stitch it!">cloud moves and blocks light somewhere else in frame>"that's okay I can wait until the cloud moves away">wind picks up>leaves and branches in the trees move a bunch>"that's okay I can wait until the wind dies down">sun has moved position in the sky>"that's okay I can balance the exposures, manually fix the shadows, fine tune the WB for every single frame, and still spend an hour fixing halos"
>>4530008>I will continue to be a nophoto because something hypothetically will always go wrong!I'm sure you will succeed greatly in life with that attitude friendOnce you actually go out and start shooting, you'll get an actual idea of how silly your comment reads lol
>>4530010Anon, this whole thread is a bait designed to turn into a gear thread. You are not following the narrative that leads to a gear discussion so OP is just bumping is thread with irrelevant chatter until someone does. Just report and move on.
>>4530010>t. nophoto Opinion ignored.
>>4529995>Get a technical camera. Used properly it can help you get everything in focus at lower f stop.This is true, now if OP wants it digital that's a hurdle he'll have to overcome.A good teaching tool would be a vintage lens with focus scale. In pic related, you have aperture lines showing where for each aperture focus starts. So if infinity focus is placed to the left of the right side line for your chosen aperture, the left side line of that aperture indicates where the stuff acceptably in focus starts. This is not exact and depends on how the lens was designed, but it's a good ballpark to start with.In this example, if shooting f/16 the stuff acceptably in focus is about 5m away, all the way to infinity and beyond (left side f/16 line falls between 4 and 6m). If infinity is placed at the right f/16 line, more stuff will be in focus but critical focus won't be at infinity anymore.
>>4529954shift-tilt lens?
>>4530008Yes, that is what life is like on the streets brother