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Dungeon Crawler Edition.
And whatever you are working on, whatever terrain topic you need info or inspo on and all other things scenery.
Also:
Fucking Mel The Terrain Tutor is actually back this time.

Pic related is a small setup I made for a modified game of OG HeroQuest with the family.
>>
>>98149681
>Fucking Mel The Terrain Tutor is actually back this time.

He should retire for good.
>>
>>98149681
Actually:
Wrong Picture Edition.
Here's the one i wanted to post.
>>98149683
Nah dude, I think this time he is back for real.
>>
These following pics are not mine but great dungeons.
>>
>>98149690
>>
>>98149693
>>
File: cardboard city_001.jpg (551 KB, 903x1293)
551 KB JPG
And here's the old WD article that got me into Terrain making back in the day.
Still a great and very versatile entry level technique.
>>
File: cardboard city_002.jpg (580 KB, 903x1278)
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>>98149697
>>
File: cardboard city_003.jpg (577 KB, 903x1278)
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>>98149701
>>
File: cardboard city_004.jpg (564 KB, 904x1326)
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>>98149705
>>
>>98149687
Is this yours? It's soulful mate. Everything's great but the hand drawn item cards really is the best of all.
>>
Anybody remember the original Thomas the tank engine show?
I love the diorama work that went into it.

How useful would the techniques used from the Thomas the tank engine team work for 28mm wargaming or ttrpg diorama work?

What were their techniques for building stuff?
>>
>>98149892
Yep, made it for the family run of OG HeroQuest we had going on a few years back.
>>
File: water effekt.jpg (101 KB, 720x741)
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>>98149944
Kids shows had the greatest effects, always loved the water from foil in Jim Button..
>>
>>98149949
Sweet. How did you paint those tiles? I might try and go for watercolor myself.
>>
>>98150572
some are drybrushed cardboard, the rough side of cereal boxes, some are drybrushed slices of bubble foam. For the red ones in the foreground I just glazed watered down red over them.
>>
>>98149944
I don't know a lot about their sets, but I do know that a lot of their trains were made from commercial kits (sometimes obscure old ones that someone on the team had to go hunt down in specialty stores, or happened to stumble upon). Since they're on a budget and already using commercial train models anyway, I would guess that most of their sets are built using very similar techniques to model railroads and indeed wargaming terrain. PVA glue, flocking, carved foam hills, etc. Some of their stuff might not be as robust as wargaming terrain since it's not going to have a bunch of heavy models on bases being picked up and put down all over it, but it still needed their little human models to be able to stand on it and not fall apart from scene to scene. In that scene the grass on the hill kinda looks like they found some nicely textured green fabric, for example. You could probably get a similar result by laying a green dishcloth over a foam hill shape.
>>
>>98150679
I'll give it a go this week-end then. Thanks.
>>
>>98152538
Thanks anon.
I know there are lots of model train tutorials out there.
Which video tutorial maker makes the best diy train terrain videos that even idiots can follow?
Like me. Lego building tutorial slideshow videos set the standards for me when I was a kid. And I still can’t adapt.

I’m okay with model train pdfs that are made and shared for free by intention too.
>>
I made these walls for Space hulk 1st ed to look like 70s sci-fi.
>>
>>98157111
I hope you're planning to add an actual paintjob, because at the moment it looks like dirty styrofoam garbage.
>>
WIP corpsestone
>>
>>98157111
Mix PVA, grey acrylic and water together so you can give it a primer while making it stronger. These pieces are going to see a lot of action.
>>
Bumping this thread because I am having a heck of a time trying to figure out a good basing scheme for my new army project and I want to look at the cool images.
>>
>>98158873
What paints did you use for that rock?
Looks good.
>>
none of this terrain is legal in any 40k game setting regardless of your “artistic expression” says other wise. The measurements do matter & the standard of terrain has to follow the rules set by Gameswork shop(tm), the table must be 4x4 & the measurements for each terrain size are the following; Small terrain features (e.g., barricades, small ruins, trees): 2" to 3", Medium terrain features (e.g., larger ruins, walls, industrial structures): 3" to 4" & Large terrain features or terrain areas (e.g., buildings, large ruins, forests): 4" to 6" that's the proper sizes that actually follow the proper rules as of 10th edition, however there was changes with 11th edition for cover also, you must take in considerations of gameplay flow which none so-call "terrain" barely follow.
>>
>>98149687
>hand-written item cards with hand-drawn art
I approve, keep up the good work.
>>
>>98150293
Are those marionette strings? At first glance I thought they were meant to simulate rain.
>>
>>98164916
Yes.
>>
>>98163561
Thanks, it's just cheap acrylic from Hobbycraft, their "art" range. Comes in 75ml tubes of almost paste like paint for about £1 - 1.50.

Stone finished. Its maybe a bit big for a Corpsestone, but it'll make nice scatter either way.
>>
>>98165567
And the other side
>>
Some other bits, wip Saxon for scale
>>
>>98165567
that rocks!
>>
>>98149709
Thank you for posting this
>>
>>98163773
This didn't get as many (You)s as you hoped it would
>>
I want to add dungeon flagstones to ~400 bases, anyone know a nice and not very time-consuming way to do it? Sadly, the miniatures are molded together with the bases.

My current options seem to be:
- cut cardboard - don't like the texture and the sharp edges (would welcome a good way to round them up a bit)
- cut plasticard - same shit
- model stones with greenstuff - way too slow
- cut/scribe stone lines into the bases - I don't have a good panel scriber tool, too slow(?), any fuckups are harder to correct
- just paint the stones everywhere by hand - no way

Basically I'm looking for:
- a relatively easy/quick way to make the stone edges rounder (pressing/filing with a "ball end" sculpting tool? (dremel bit in case of plasticard)?)
- some way to avoid ugly flat texture in plastic - maybe sponging with a very thin grey glaze to provide an "uneven" surface?
- alternate ideas how to make a flagstone floor
>>
>>98159916
>Mix PVA, grey acrylic and water together so you can give it a primer while making it stronger.
NTA, but I will steal and test this idea when I paint trash terrain.
>>
File: IMG_20251030_122543.jpg (1.94 MB, 4000x3000)
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File: 20250405_122427.jpg (2.98 MB, 2252x4000)
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>>98169805
I love this, every time I see it I'm impressed.
>>
File: P1120641.jpg (141 KB, 1000x1097)
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>>98169732
Insulation foam, cut stripes with hobby knife, variations and imperfections are a bonus here.
Make slices small enough to end up with 2-3 pieces of flagstone per base.
Cut slices off the stripes, again, imperfections are welcome.
Cut several stripes at at time for quick worklflow and even more wanted imperfection.
Pour huge batch of foam pieces into box with rocks and stones of different shapes and sizes, shake well, voila.
Seal foam with watered down PVA before painting.
You could possibly get away with using simpel Bubblefoam from packaging.
>>
File: IMG_20250622_171301.jpg (2.63 MB, 4000x3000)
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Some wood walls i did awhile ago too.
>>
>>98169732
Cut xps foam (or any stiff foam you have to hand.) into small and thin irregular tiles or blocks. You can do this with a hobby knife. Make them Large enough to cover your base with two or three of these. Glue them to the base and then roll some crumpled up tinfoil over the top of them to texture the foam once the glue is dried.
Paint them black, dry brush dark gray, a lighter gray, and then a very light grey to give it a stone color.
Personally I'd leave a large enough gap between some of the flagstones to work in moss or grass to give some variation to the bases.
>>
>>98169847
Oh forgot to add when you paint them black use a mixture of pva glue or modge podge, water and cheap black paint to prime/seal them.
>>
>>98169816
>>98169847
Aaand of course this fucking site decides to disenfranchise my post, hiding any (You)s and notifications right when I need them.

>XPS/insulation foam
Shit, I totally forgot about that. I'll see if I can get some. Good idea with the bucket of stones for weathering the foam, too.

>PVA glue/mod podge
Another good idea I forgot, thanks for reminding me before I fucked my terrain by priming.
>>
File: 425437910_11320d534e_o.jpg (1.66 MB, 2048x1360)
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>>98149687
>>98149690
>>98149694
these are pretty cool
I want to make something like pic rel one day, likely in 15mm, but that depends if I expand my sci-fi stuff in that scale or not by then
seen a couple of 3D print files for walls and tiles so I think I'll go with those, there's just so many options
>>
>>98169805
Post the real one with the goth chick
>>
how do you guys make your area terrain bases?
I've been trying cardboard but to make it strong enough to not warp easily I have to use a thick one even multiple sheets and then hide the ugly edges with extra steps
I see MDF board mentioned all the time I am not sure where I could source those with the dimensions I'd need
I've wondered if I could print them with FDM instead, but I don't know how prone are those to warpingso I'd have to test
>>
>>98171290
>>98169805
Is this guy trying to get away with not posting the fingerblast edit?
>>
>>98171290
>>98171889
Hahaha. The goth girl is mostly done but I might redo her skin. It's not goth enough. Might finish her this weekend and ill post it.
>>
>>98171794
I think MDF boards need to be at least 3mm thick.

Did you rotate your second layer of cardboard 90° before gluing them together?
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File: IMG_4350.jpg (1.62 MB, 1295x1113)
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>>98175003
>Did you rotate your second layer of cardboard 90° before gluing them together?
yeah, pic rel bottom left between the blue and green guys is like that
I just don't like the extra work with hiding the ugly cardboard edges, two layers is also getting a bit too thick at the edges
>>
>>98169811
Jesus, you could march a whole elven regiment through that hole. It's looser'n a graveyard goth girl for fucks sake
Oh, sorry, I see we already covered this
>>
>>98171794
1/8 plywood. a 4x8 sheet will last you a lifetime, you can probably get 2x2 ones at any hardware store
>>
>>98177531
>a 4x8 sheet will last you a lifetime
No, plywood that thin is going to warp over time, you need to precut it to prevent the worst of this which from anons complaint about MDF dimensions implies a problem as 1'x1' sheets of MDF are readily available at dollar stores and such.
>>
>>98177807
Has that happened to you? I have stuff a couple years old that still sits flat, I rattlecan both sides usually though.
>>
>>98177897
depends on your local humidity/heat and how you store it, do you have it pressed flat behind/under something heavy? does your environment fluctuate hot/cold/wet/dry? and storing a 4'x8' sheet for years (however thin) is asking a lot for most hobbyists.
>>
>>98169811
Got a good close-up shot of the flock you used for the moss between the stones? I can't make out he details.
>>
>>98178264
Woodland scenics dark green flock. Mixed it with pva glue to make moss.
>>
>>98171794
>I see MDF board mentioned all the time I am not sure where I could source those with the dimensions I'd need
For a handful of pieces? Cheap coping saw, some spare blades, and clipboards from the dollar store. Will handle anything up to 9"x12" for under $20
Out where I am Home Depot and Lowe's sell "project boards" that are 24x24" sheets of MDF. Those have the hobby tax. Or you can buy a full sheet. The store will break it down for you, although you may need to pay for any cuts past the first 2-3. A handheld jigsaw is definitely worth it if you plan to do more than a few pieces. You can occasionally find them at garage sales or thrift stores for cheap; a pack of blades for MDF or plywood runs $2-3 per blade. A low-end keyless jigsaw is about $30 new and midrange ones are $60-100. Just don't use them on PVC or acrylic, you'll have a bad time.
>>
>>98171794
Plasticcard. 3-5mm.
>>
>>98171794
I only use terrain that doesn't need to be based, I want the play surface to be the ground and not be interrupted by the visual discontinuity of large terrain bases.
>>
>>98180523
>>98181793
3mm is getting a bit close to too thick in my opinion
also I have no idea where to get those, living in East EU middle of nowhere

>>98182730
That's mostly what I do too, but bumping into single pieces and pushing or toppling them can be annoying
also I think area pieces are useful to add elevation of the ground, if done well then there isn't much discontinuity
>>
>>98183612
>bumping into single pieces and pushing or toppling them can be annoying
I blue tack stuff like trees and modular wall sections.
As for ground elevation area pieces, I'll do large stepped hills (never rounded, always stepped) but those don't need a base, they are the base.
Stepped hills because these games are already abstract and dying on the hill of rounded hills over that is silly, minis are meant to sit on flat surfaces.
>>
>>98169811
Very nice. What is it? A well? A tower of silence? A "this is Sparta" pit?
>>
>>98169818
I remember these. Turned out great. Good to see them again, Anon.
>>
>>98169732
I would try applying a layer of greenstuff onto the base, then using a texture roller over that. If you want to rough up the stones a little after the roller, let the greenstuff dry and then sand it.
>>
File: rollers.jpg (46 KB, 570x570)
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>>98169732
>>98184703
Forgot pic.
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>>98184706
I have one, but the models and the bases are single cast, so no. I've thought of pressing it onto a thick plastic foil or something, then transferring it onto the actual bases, then decided it'd be too much hassle at this scale.
>>
>>98177897
I had a bunch of 1'x1' wood boards for a modular table back in the day.
That thing warped and molded immediately when my family put them outside for a weekend during summer.
Just from a humidity alone the fucking things died and my country is not particularly humid during summer
>>
>>98170558
4chins does notifications? [Spoiler] you have to go back[/spoiler]
>>
>>98186799
>Can't even add spoiler tags properly
No, (You) have to go back.
>>
File: BasingTest.png (437 KB, 630x229)
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I've been trying come up with a limestone/sandstone-style urban rubble base scheme using gravel, sand, sprue bits, and blocks made of foam coated in texture paste to prevent priming from melting them.

It has not gone exactly how I want, but I feel as if I am close here to something good. What's the last step? I paint after priming with one basecoat, two drybrushes, and then a light typhus wash.
>>
>>98187886
Nice it like it.
>>
File: IMG_5464.jpg (3.39 MB, 5712x4284)
3.39 MB JPG
I’m working on some breached walls for my clubs upcoming siege event. Since these will be for a warhammer fortress, I need to expand the gap a little bit.

The Renedra walls are also taller than mighty fortress walls, but I’m unsure if I want to cut off the tops to maintain that fidelity or keep them whole
>>
I dislike that my current terrain project is going to take about 2 weeks to print, but at the same time it'd take that long or longer to ship terrain and instead of ~$25 it'd cost $300-$500
>>
>>98188244
What I've got so far. Still got tents, campfire, scandinavian huts, palisade walls/gate, stone idol, drakkar and a longhouse to go
Oh and more trees.
>>
File: IMG_20260610_131714.jpg (3.07 MB, 3890x2152)
3.07 MB JPG
>>98188262
Fuck, dropped this.
>>
>>98187886
honestly? already looks good to me
>>
>>98187886
If there has to be a last step, maybe a sparse dry brush with a really bright, pale yellow? Sandstone can be very bright under the sun, to me that looks more like how it would look on an overcast day. Which is also fine, it probably doesn't need much else. The models are supposed to be the focus anyway.
>>
>>98188268
Are you planning to sponge that several close but different shades to mask the printing texture?
>>
>>98188868
Sponging is not necessary, these paint up without texture just fine. Layer height 0.1mm, could go 0.06 but it's already taking forever.
>>
File: IMG_20260610_152125.jpg (2.52 MB, 2643x2963)
2.52 MB JPG
>>98188918
>>98188868
This crypt is printed with the same settings.
>>
>>98188949
Looks spooky.
>>
File: howse.jpg (2.69 MB, 3235x4093)
2.69 MB JPG
I made this out of XPS with some old grout for the plaster, Im pretty happy with the results for how long I spent on it.
>>98178028
Oh, I see, the full sheet you mean. Yeah, the piece I have left has probably curved a little over the years, but it isnt visible on any of the smaller bits I've used.
>>98186697
That's wild, I live in the midwest US and I store my stuff in a dank ass basement. I have tossed the stuff I made 8ish years ago and based on painted cardboard, that stuff was hopelessly warped, but the plywood bases are going strong.
>>
File: IMG_3651.jpg (3.16 MB, 4032x3024)
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I printed and even painted an eclectic mix of small terrain pieces for a beginner rpg campaign.
>>
File: IMG_3652.jpg (3.16 MB, 4032x3024)
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>>98192735
Also some monoliths.
>>
File: ritual_hill.jpg (251 KB, 2048x1271)
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Re-posting my WIP from wfg. It's the first piece from my upcoming winter terrain set.
>>
>>98192735
I like 'em. Kinda cheerful, reminds me of assets in an oldschool jrpg in a way.
>>
>>98195740
Looking good. What do you plan on using for the snow effect?
>>
>>98192748
Those are really cool.
>>
File: FnznAofacAIV5qU.jpg (1.85 MB, 4032x2268)
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I was about to ask if someone knows where the buildings on pic rel are from, but realized google can img search them.
Looks like Crescent Root Studio, but read they don't keep much stock and rotate out series...
>>
>>98175930
This pic kinda made me think of Heroes of Might and Magic
>>
>>98198007
A mix of snow pastes from Vallejo, AK, and some other random producers. A few years ago I made a snow table and still have some leftovers from that time.
>>
>>98200464
Are they all roughly the same or do you have a favorite? I'll be in the market for some soon.
>>
File: before_final trees.jpg (5.82 MB, 4128x3096)
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>>98200485
I would go with AK terrain snow mixed with valhallan blizard from GW (whole pot of valhallan blizzard for a single jar of AK). That was the main layer used for pic related (it's 2"x2"). After that I made a few more mixes of different types and sprinkled everything with AK microballoons.
>>
>>98200504
Good advice good results!
>>
Anyone ever worked with Green Stuff Worlds texture pastes? It's what's readily available in my country but there's a lack of review.

Was looking for GSW - Ground Texture - Light Earth most specifically.
>>
File: IMG_20260614_094858.jpg (2.54 MB, 2137x2627)
2.54 MB JPG
Not sure if it's been a week or a week and a half now.
Need to double my trees, got the last of the palisade walls printing now.
Not pictured - tents, campfire, ruined tower, intact tower. Barbarian village is just the first layout I'll be playing (once painted of course) setting it up as I get it printed just tells me how much more scatter I need.
>>
File: house3.png (2.38 MB, 1271x1222)
2.38 MB PNG
>>98199563
Glad to hear that, HoMM is cool
>>
>>98205947
What are the tiles made from? I like the texture.
>>
>>98206039
Egg carton box
The whole piece was inspired by this https://worldofwaltonscrafts.blogspot.com/2019/07/quick-n-dirty-hobbit-holes.html
>>
File: 20260613_172932.jpg (3.52 MB, 4032x2268)
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Some future silver bayonet terrain. A walled farm...
>>
File: 20260615_073522.jpg (3.05 MB, 4032x2268)
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And half of a church that's supposed to be in the center of a ruined town. Been struggling a bit with certain parts of this church that don't want to print properly for some reason.

In general like seemingly all of the same authors games silver bayonet requires a pretty extensive terrain collection ranging from a ruined village, river and bridge, a 40x40cm swamp and a ship deck and hold
>>
I want to make a terrain set based on The Rock(tm), home of the Dark Angels. Got any good inspiration? I’m not quite sure how to go about making an entire board that’s supposed to be inside a castle. Or half in half out.
>>
>>98208465
I'd start here.
>>
File: 2026_sand_battle.jpg (458 KB, 1280x964)
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came across this recently, very funny
>>
File: 20220723_233753.jpg (4.25 MB, 4032x3024)
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I know its not custom built and for that i apologize, but i really enjoy painting gw slop terrain.
>>
File: 20220723_232906.jpg (2.9 MB, 4032x3024)
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>>98211903
>>
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>>98211903
>>98211925
>>
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>>98211903
>>98211925
>>98211948
>>
File: 20260531_200855.jpg (3.82 MB, 4000x3000)
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I made a landing pad with inductive LED's. The VTOL is from Oasis, releases this summer.
>>
File: IMG_6113.jpg (1.35 MB, 4032x3024)
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>>98211903
it's fine, at least you painted them well and didn't leave them grey
>>
Any of you ever built interiors? I thought it might be a cool idea to do a tavern.
>>
>>98214133
Interiors are fine as long as you can actually move minis around in them. You might want to make it larger than usual to make sure you can place minis between tables and chairs. Also you might want to skip making a ceiling entirely
>>
File: P1120357.jpg (3.98 MB, 4000x3000)
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>>98214133
Well I made this for OG Necromunda.
>>
File: P1120356.jpg (3.94 MB, 4000x3000)
3.94 MB JPG
>>98215820
>>98214133
>>
File: P1120351.jpg (4 MB, 4000x3000)
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>>98215826
>>98215820
>>98214133
>>
>>98215820
god, fuckin inflation. cant believe blue is 1 now
>>
>>98215854
I remember when blue was .25
>>
Do any of you happen to remember the jervis johnson white dwarf article where he discusses how to make a visually appealing terrain setup? I've been looking through archives but cannot find the exact issue
>>
So annoying, I could only find a single hobby store in my little countryside town but they are mostly just paints.
The only place I could find XPS foam is a large DIY store chain, but theirs have this addational textured layer on it. At least it's like 4 times the size of XPS from greenstuff world and whatever for the same price.
>>
>>98219023
Amazon?
>>
>>98219041
the point would be to not bother with delivery and it's cost since I already have to go in to town at least once a week
>>
File: terrain1.jpg (260 KB, 1075x1280)
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>>98211903
Me too. I should paint the rest of mine.
>>
>>98215820
Not the type of dive I had in mind but it looks pretty cool.
I'm still collecting stuff for my little project. The idea is to build it inside a picture frame so I can hang it on the wall. Found plenty of coffee stirrers in a box, currently printing tables and ale mugs. I should also make walls for two sides, but I haven't decided if I want to also build a staircase.
>>
>>98219023
>additional textured layer on it
Cut it off and use those parts for rocks the texture is nothing a few rocks in a can wont fix. It might even make it look better too.
>>
>>98219118
One day I will own this place.
>>
>>98220981
A padded room?
>>
Bump for hopeful evening post
>>
Sorry for a retard question but I'm completely new to this stuff, just making my first attempts at painting terrain:
What sort of paint do you guys use for doing larger surfaces? I'm reluctant to use regular hobby paint that I usually paint my minis with because the price/quantity ratio feels a bit too steep to use it for large walls of buildings or hills or whatnot, but on the other hand just buying a whole ass bucket of wall paint for this doesn't feel right either
>>
>>98227036
the cheap acrylic craft paints you can find at michaels or walmart are fine for this. Just thin them with some water.
>>
>>98227287
No such stores here, but I assume you mean the kind you would get for school art classes and such?
Thanks, that makes sense! Haven't used those in such a long time it kinda didn't occur to me they exist
>>
>>98227356
Acrylic is acrylic. Fancy hobby brands will have nicer pre-thinned mediums and denser amounts of pigment for smoother coverage with less coats, but it's all water based in the end. If it doesn't go on good after being thinned, just add another layer. Repeat until it looks good.
>>
>>98227565
CRAFTSPERG
it's that time of day again
>>
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>>98227036
>What sort of paint do you guys use for doing larger surfaces?
For black I just use cheap craft paint by the pint. Mars black is damned hard to fuck up no matter how badly you formulate the paint. For umbers, ochres, and greys I buy tubes of artists' acrylics that I mix up in batches with bottled matte medium and water. The pasty acrylics let you control the ratio of water much better when you're making plaster and Sculptamold castings, or mixing up basing pastes out of texture media. Theoretically it takes more time, but I like the flexibility it offers. Plus mixing an entire dropper-bottle full takes about the same amount of time it would to make a small batch for one project, so there's no reason not to.

>>98227881
Anon is absolutely right in this case, shut the fuck up. For terrain you kind of need to cheap out by necessity and fortunately most of the pigments we use are foolproof.
>>
>>98227036
The hobby paints you already own but don't use much of because they aren't quite the right shade. Maybe with some cheap black and white bulk paints to dull them down and keep most of your terrain as background.
>>98227565
>Acrylic is acrylic
Some of the acrylics I've tried are washable paint for kids. Which means putting anything over the top of them like a second layer will fuck everything up.
>>
>>98227036
You can get sample pots of interior house paint that are like 250ml. You don't have to buy a 20L drum or whatever.
>>
>>98227036
Cheap acrylics from the arts and crafts store or supermarket.
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>>98227036
Apple barrel has suited me just fine .any cheap craft paint will do for terrain. Pic related is done with craft paint.
>>
Hey anons!
I’m getting a resin printer hopefully soon.
And looking into modular printable terrain stls.

How’s openlock? Openforge?
How are these systems or has a better more popular modular terrain system free to use by other makers come out that put the above to shame?
>>
>>98211948
What was used for making that moss? I must know.
>>
>>98232867
Do not use a resin printer for making terrain, that will be retardedly expensive.
Resin is for miniatures, FDM is for terrain.
>>
>>98227881
Is there a rule where every mentally ill faggot obsessed with another poster has to be more annoying than whoever it is you're triggered by?
What are you, Ritchie Rich using model paints for terrain?
Just kick the chair out already dipshit
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>>98232887
NTA but you can mix flock, paint and PVA to make a custom moss paste.
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>>98233106
You can print terrain with resin perfectly fine. If its the right size.
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>>98233580
I didn't say you couldn't, I said it would be stupid expensive.
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>>98220981
If I was a carpenter
and you were a douchebag
>>
>>98235120
If water were whiskey
And I were a duck
I'd dive to the bottom
And drink my way up.
>>
>>98235120
Damn, parquet floors. You really spoil those minis, Anon.
>>
>>98233507
Thanks!
I have some moss flock now.
I am curious about mixing Ak neutral texture with green paint to create a “less powerful” kind of moss.
Think it will work?
>>
Is pic related bird sand still viable for terrain basing?
I came across it from a tutorial about basing minis:
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=0G7AvJVflFo&vl=en
Or because it is only 2kg I should keep it for miniature basing and for dioramas I should look into texture paste like Ak dark earth?
>>
>>98236274
There once was a man
from Peru - whose limericks
turned into haiku
>>
>>98236540
The critics were tough,
his rhyming was rough,
So he bid the whole business adieu.
>>
>>98236523
Only 2kg? That will last you a long time. Get this for terrain projects.
>>
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>>98235120
The fireplace is next, the more wooden beams I guess.
>>
>>98229414
Might just be the photo, but maybe you could give the first grave on the right and the earth heap in front of it a bit of (or more, if you already did) matte varnish. Looks a bit like a dinosaur took a massive shit on someones grave atm.
Other than that it's a great little terrain piece, and i agree that cheap paint from the supermarket is absolutely sufficient for work like this.

>>98236523
>only 2 kg
Anon, i still use a similar sized sand bag left over from my budgie for terrain and bases. And that little fellow died over twenty years ago.
>>
Anyone has experience with Aliexpress HO scale trees, grass flock or tufts? I'm trying to avoid the hobby store tax. Surely there's acceptable quality of those there, right?
>>
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>>98239263
Hit or miss. I got pic related on TEMU, and most tufts look good but note how some have white hair in them.
>>
>>98238389
>>98239085
Thanks anon. I’ll get it then.
>>98239494
You’ve got experience with aliexpress and temu for tufts?
By chance do you know of a vendor who has mimicked the gamers grass burned, beige and green tufts?
>>
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>>98238570
It‘s honest work.
>>
>>98239650
No idea, vendors come and go on TEMU. If you're after a specific tuft colour, don't buy there.
>>
>>98239650
What i bought from there was generally good or very good quality. One in particular even copied the blister packs of Army Painter down to the letter. (just not "Army Painter" on the front).
But i honestly just bought a variety of different tones, without paying too much attention if they actually match something exactly, because i mix my tufts anyway.
>>
>>98239494
ah well, I might pull the trigger on an order
grass flock too, I'm too lazy to make it myself
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>>98239752
Looks really nice so far.
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>>98239494
Btw this is what it looks like on TEMU.
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>>98241513
Chink cocksuckers
>>
Glad my thread title stuck for when these do come around.
Mainly made my own terrain but gotten some 3D printed.
Are colour forge cans going to get real expensive? Should I invest in an airbrush?
(Would need to do it all outdoors)
>>
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>>98242874
Whoops didn't attach image
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>>98239944
I splurged on gamers grass tufts a while back.
Maybe a life supply at this rate but because I’m looking into terrain building I might run dry eventually.
I think some of the gamers grass tufts are mimics of Armypainter’s tufts. Or similar enough that a Chinese bulk copy of them will suffice. Especially when the quality is good or possibly from the same factory.
Links please?
>>
>>98242874
I don't know how you could paint terrain without an airbrush, that sounds like torture.
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>>98242887
Maybe I'm a masochist lol
>>
Just bought some filament and I’m ready to 3d print some terrain. Any recommendations on Eldar themed terrain?
>>
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>>98243048
https://www.myminifactory.com/users/ForbiddenPrints?show=store&page=1&query=umbral

https://www.myminifactory.com/object/3d-print-lyntrath-jungle-vestiges-315048
https://www.myminifactory.com/object/3d-print-ivdyris-astral-gateway-384231
https://www.myminifactory.com/object/3d-print-the-glade-of-the-matter-shapers-3d-printing-designs-bundle-eldar-el-terrain-and-scenery-for-wargames-141468
^this guy has some dark eldar stuff too

also there are a bunch of Dawn of War building model rips and free stuff floating around
>>
>>98242874
I'd just buy a can of cheap black paint for primer and do the rest with a large brush
Or maybe get some other can if I know I'll need to cover a lot with that color, like grey stone for multiple of these ruined buildings
>>
>>98243250
>lotus seed pod trees that might be monsters
Now that's horror
>>
>>98233507
I remember a guy who used to make stormcast like these and post them on dakkadakka
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>>98232887
It kinda looks like they used the fake moss from the dollar store that's used to make terrariums, I have a bag or two, though they are deep in storage and I can't pull them out for a pic. It's basically just special green foam.
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>>98243532
picrel
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>>98239752
Steady on.
>>
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>>98245441
looking pretty neat and clean for something in the ASH WASTES
>>
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my humble work so far
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>>98245776
Neat. Would raid and set fire to.
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>>98245776
Sick. How'd you make the houses?
>>
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>>98245218
And ever on
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>>98250625
Epic progress
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>>98250298
NTA, but those are pretty basic/classic.
>use coffee stirrers to make the walls, ideally with an angle cutter (pic related).
>Add in a ridgepole to space the end frames, and ideally a couple crossmembers lower down
>doors and chimneys made from cut cardboard strips
>Cut a strip of shaved teddy bear fur for the wattled roof, hit it with some paint and glue for texture. You can also use sheets of florist's moss glued to cardboard for this layer.
>paintbrush bristles or lengths of hemp/jute twine in bundles for the thatch
>top it off with a bottle rocket stick or a split chunk of coffee stirrer between the forks to "hold down" the thatch
You can do all the cutting for a half-a-dozen of them while watching a movie. With a simple jig you can crank out a couple in an hour, the hardest part is unironically watching the glue and paint dry before you throw another layer on.
>>
>>98246605
thnak you! tehehehe that's what they're for!
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>>98250298
For the grass I bought a 5x5 ish piece of teddy fur cloth,
and the houses are made with cardboard for the shape,
ice cream sticks or cofee stirrers for the beams and then the grittier side of cereal cardboard for the other beams just to add another layer of texture

I used moss and not fake 2mm-4mm grass but real dried moss that you can get in stationery stores for dioramas or gardening stores for the roofs

and for some of them,the yellow ones, I added sisal rope (cut it first to the length you want) to simulate straw

for the stone walls that's expanded(not extruded) polystyrene , egg carton cardboard cut to the shape of stones glued to it, the walls cover it with modelling paste , let it dry and drybush.

sticks are real dryed sticks from my backyard and the hedges are fake painted plants

the cart is the papercraft cart you get in the ravenfeast website
>>
>>98245639
Its a WIP anon. Ground is only primed so far, haven't even got to weathering yet.
>>
>>98251882
>>98254213
Teddy bear murderers!



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