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Work in Progress, Late Saturday Night Edition

>Full-on /WIP/ OP Links Pastebin:
https://pastebin.com/BE42AEcD

>WIP Tutorial Images Mega
https://mega.nz/#F!TvQFCaLb!w8WZKCcOsTRasxrI0JWezw

>Saint Duncan's "Six Things I Wish I Knew When I Started Painting"
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ufP8ka3KGno

>Saint Duncan also explains thinning your paints
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wxWgsqSf74s

>Paint thinning 102
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sBDVPoNXyVI

>4 EASY Chipping Tricks For Beginners
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ku4comhKHJM

>Decal Like a Pro
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SYKLiEW7p9c

>How to Edge Highlight
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KoRbYuAfbEk

>How to use contrast style paints
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IhholrozptI

>How to Paint with Tremors
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oqp76vAJu9g

>Airbrush Priming and Thinning
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jkntrSBvXxE
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IGjBQzoukFg
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=00JVUxABe44
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AEqT_R41JX8

>Who's Johnny, she'd say, and smile in her special way
https://1d6chan.miraheze.org/wiki/Johnny

Previous threads:
>>98193647
>>98185203
>>98176312
>>
File: jakhals1.jpg (742 KB, 1340x938)
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Finished my jakhals, will surely need some tiny fixes here and there when I look over them closely later. And with that the combat patrol is painted and I guess combat patrol rules are pointless and outdated now so I'll have to figure out what me and m8 are gonna play..
>>
File: jakhals2.jpg (685 KB, 1313x879)
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>>98203504
Pics may be kind of funny colour-wise, don't have access to a good monitor (at work)
>>
>>98203505
I mean it's not my normal monitor . Dammit I wish all monitors and panels were made to the same exact standard..
>>
File: 20260613_181958.jpg (279 KB, 1117x736)
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thunderhawk is primed, was very fun to build despite the setbacks and typical large resin model issues.
>>
File: Untitled.jpg (179 KB, 1692x576)
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if selling a $3 plastic cup for $14 is evil what do you call this?
>>
>>98203020
paint the lighter color first and then streak the grain color using oil paints
>>
>>98203488
thank you they are black legion with sons of horus shoulderpads to give them some color and red for that silly retro look
>>
>>98203711
You mean that KINGly retro look :)
>>
File: 1781217950709391.png (81 KB, 822x526)
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Finished a third mini today and also got my wash and varnish in the mail, but I got too excited with the varnish and messed it up so the minis look dusty now. At least now I know for the rest.
>>
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>>98203751
Im gonna kill myself
>>
>>98203754
Why are you varnishing unfinished minis? I mean the base bro...
>>
>>98203754
How does one even achieve such a finish?
>>
>>98203764
Very uncarefully. Also he was probably spraying from too far away or using too many coats too quickly.
>>
>>98203754
what dark urging brings people to use an unknown product on their miniatures without testing it on something else first to see how it sprays?
>>
>>98203751
Anon, quickly, get a heat gun or a hairdryer and use it on the lowest setting possible to slightly warm up the varnish, if its not too bad it should settle the spotty portions. Also detail the bases of your fucking minis you troglodyte.
>>
File: br angry marine dow.png (744 KB, 841x486)
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QUESTION;
Does anyone know of a Space Marine head that looks like the angry Blood Raven from dawn of war?
I am looking specifically for the kind of haircut and then, scar, studs.
Please let me know from which kit so that I can dig it. thank you.
>>
>>98203754
It looks like you primed other miniatures while these guys watched. Wtf did you even do?
>>
>>98203754
relax marine, worst case scenario just strip them and paint them again, they are not for golden daemon nor do they look like box art. You will be fine.
>>
>>98203758
you don't have to varnish painted texture paste, retard-kun
>>
File: 20260614_023014.jpg (539 KB, 2997x1907)
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>>98203782
That actually worked really well, thank you. I'm going to check on them again in the morning and also put my varnish on the other side of the house till I get some other scrap bits to try it on first. Second. I'm a fool.
>>
>>98203815
And what did we learn anon
>>
Worked on this guy’s cloak tonight
>>
>>98203822
Or I guess robes, whatever they’re called
>>
>>98203822
Love the colors. looking really good. Can't wait until you touch it up and finish it. Keep us updated
>>
File: nico-seal.gif (3.78 MB, 640x360)
3.78 MB GIF
>>98203821
Don't do stuff to my minis without testing it first.
>>
>>98203815
Maybe get some gloss varnish just in case. You can use that and then reapply another matte coat over it. Just dont go crazy with it like you did. Also maybe get some of the dedicated mini paint strippers.
>>
>>98203602
free-market capitalism
>>
does anyone know a good cheap source for daemon weapons? source does not need to be GW. the khorne bloodletter swords look like good candidates but i'm interested in a variety or weapon types not just swords and i do not want to pay through the nose for a specific bit from a character kit on ebay
>>
>>98203898
Printing?
If that is not an option, maybe check the mantic demon range?
>>
>>98203754
Not tested myself, but it says online you can fix it using a gloss varnish.
>>
>>98203898
Etsy.
I found a knight with fat tits.
The site has almost everything.
>>
>>98204019
>>
>>98203504
Not bad at all
>>
>>98203790
Your just going to have to look at sprues on the GW site, and pray they are face up
>>
Anyone has tried the Ionic paints? (I think the Atom ones are pretty much the same just with slight hue differences but essentially the same paint)
>>
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About yesterday and scale models festival - came up today to pick my models up and one actually got a distinction! Since I consulted her painting with you guys, I just wanted to share.

I'm sorry for depreciating myself. Didn't expect that at all.
>>
>>98204247
Congrats anon!
>>
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>>98203790
One of the Orlock heads has a similar expression but he has goggles and funny hair you could try converting, it's on the guy at the front, with the servo-arm. There are 2x10 heads, don't worry if you fuck up one.
>>
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>>98204271
As for my own painted example, I don't really like doing faces but here's how it'll look with a wash filling out the recesses on the head. Also note the head connection is a bit different to marines, but wouldn't be tough to convert maybe.

Maybe there's an STL out there with what exactly it is you're looking for, though.
>>
File: fallen dudes.jpg (2.44 MB, 3614x2792)
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My fallen guys. I'm finally playing at the FLGS now, so I'm not letting myself show up without a bit more progress than last time.
>>
reposting in new thread
>https://strawpoll.com/GeZAR5aGbyV
>>
>>98203754
Don't worry, /k/ommando, you're forgiven.
>>
>>98204019
I'll look into this some more, found some good options.
>>
File: 17814357984717.png (3.17 MB, 1896x1566)
3.17 MB PNG
Goblinas, anyone?
with the hair I was thinking of just using some black wash, while the pants I'm not sure how to paint some shadows in the creases without ruining the off white tone
>>
>>98204412
From thumbnail I thought it's Piccolo.
>>
>>98204423
too bad she doesn't have a weighted mantle then
>>
File: guisarmiers 4.jpg (402 KB, 2544x1000)
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I'm pretty happy with how they look now, which means it's time to work on their bases. I'm going for a muddy battlefield.
I tried an experiment with purple glazes to do some moody shadows but it looked like I dunked them in yogurt or something so I repainted most of it.
>>
>>98203790
>haircut, scar, studs
Assault Intercessor, missing 1 stud, scar on the other eye
>>
>>98204464
Isn't that a roid zit?
>>
>>98204029
Is that mads minis?
Also name of vendor please.
>>
>>98204247
Congrats man. Haven't been in a few threads so Im glad I got to see how it turned out. Looks good man, well done
>>
>>98204029
Not Slaaneshi???
>>
>>98204247
Gz man
>>
>>98203829
Thanks anon. Might do some nmm on another model as practice and come back to this in a few days.
>>
File: IMG_20260614_082711.jpg (268 KB, 643x986)
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Got a new cutting mat, decided to put a sticker on it then I figured it wouldn't last long so I carefull trimmed the white border off then gave it alternating coats of gloss and matte clearcoat to keep it from peeling.
>>
Do people actually use 000 brushes? I feel like anything beyond a 00 is useless. The brush is too small, the paint on it is non-existent or just dries up immediately before you hit the model, the point doesn't hold at all because it folds under any sort of pressure.
>>
>>98204943
I have a few but I rarely use them, I find I am grabbing a brand new taklon size 1 instead and using that until the tip curls, then grabbing a fresh one.
>>
File: 20260613_201056.jpg (589 KB, 3000x4000)
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>>98203681
My phone kind of sucks, here's one under the lamp
Asking again, any tips for nmm on gun bodies and random metal bits?
>>
>>98204920
cute but its a cutting mat
its not like that varnish protects the sticker from being cut you sick guro enthusiast
>>
>>98204956
The amount of cutting done on the mat is incredibly small, most of us just use these mats as a catcher for paint splatter when brushing.
I also have a couple hundred more lewd anime stickers sitting in a zipper bag just waiting for an excuse to be used, they were like $5 on amazon and were a great way to use the remaining balance on a gift card.
>>
>looking for files to print
>see a range of coomer minis
>obviously, this must have been made by a neckbeard
>click in because I'm a neckbeard
>the artist is a conventionally attractive woman
what?
>>
>>98204996
No one understands better than women that tits sell.
>>
>>98204996
Are you just learning for the first time that women are some of the horniest people around? The horniest man is nothing compared to the horniest woman.
>>
>>98203481
Anyone ever try using that nail art stamping shit for putting stuff on Imperial Guard sized infantry? Having one unlimited use stamping plate that I can use with any color sounds much better than collecting a ton of those transfer sheets. I've haven't used a transfer sheet yet, and I figure it would be better to jump straight to learning how to do the stamping shit if it's a better way of doing little icons, flag symbols, and lettering rather than learning my way around the little decal sheets before switching over anyways.
>>
>>98204920
So eh... source?
>>
>>98204943
Size 02 sable is really the smallest you actually NEED. To go any smaller you’d want a liner
>>
>>98205043
If that's a specific character I don't know what it's from, the stickers came as a randomized assortment of hundreds. Some I recognize, some I don't.
>>
>>98205034
I might buy a stamper and 3d print some plates. Will try it with oil paint since I don't want to mess around with nail polish stuff.
>>
>>98204954
You essentially paint them as usual, but high contrast and with close attention to the direction of the main light. The more polished the metal is, the more it functions as a mirror that reflects the environment.
Try looking at some metallic objects, preferably of similar shapes, for reference.
>>
>>98205055
>3d print some plates
with resin there will be elephanting issues if you print it flat on plate, support scarring if otherwise, FDM will have detail issues, so if you manage to get this to work please share your exact process and results.
>>
>>98204954
Love how you did the armor btw, and the eye glow looks great too.
>>
>>98205045
Size 1 is my workhorse. I use a size 2 for base coating and 0-000 brushes for eyes.

>>98204943
Use a bit of retarder or glaze medium, it will help the paint last longer.
>>
>painting a small, fairly simple infantry model
>not doing any fancy techniques, just base + shade + layer
>not fucking around, only wait as long as is necessary for the paint to not remain wet
>still takes basically all night to get one model done
I don't get how I'm supposed to paint 100+ of these things
>>
>>98205155
Airbrush and batch painting
>>
>>98205155
as someone who also puts basecoats on their models, if I did the innermost sections (undersuits) first, I'd have way less cleanup to do on the other basecoats
>>
>>98205155
You'll get much faster at it, but batch painting also helps immensely.
>>
They’re perfectly valid tools of painting but I’m so tired of every painting video I try to watch just being airbrush and speedpaints. You’re all doing the same thing. I just want to see some interesting styles and approaches to hand painting things.
>>
>>98205183
I don't see how I can get faster at it unless I develop some magic power that makes paint dry quicker.
>>
>>98205155
>still takes basically all night to get one model done
A space marine takes me 3 days. You're supposed to take 3 years to paint a complete army so that the new edition invalidates it as soon as it's done.
>>
>>98203822
Lovely purple, what other colors are you going to use on the armor and skin/hair?
>>
>>98204247
And just yesterday you were saying that your models weren't good enough to be there. We're always our own worst critic, congrats Anon!
>>
File: Script Size 0.jpg (48 KB, 1200x1200)
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>>98204943
Script brush, holds a lot more paint while also having a sharp tip.
>>
>>98205233
All about finding a flow that works for you. When batch painting a few models at a time you'll paint something on one guy then grab another while the first guy dries. By the time you finish something on a later guy the first one will be ready again. Some people like to batch paint a whole unit at a time but I prefer working in batches of three. I get a lot more motivation from seeing models make leaps and bounds in progress than a color or two across a whole unit.
>>
Hand broke off one of my models, any tips for strengthening the area where I glue it back on? Dealing with an issue right now where it’s attached but the melted plastic is just kinda gummy and flexible instead of a sturdy bond
>>
File: IMG_20260614_094858.jpg (2.54 MB, 2137x2627)
2.54 MB JPG
About a week of printing and still not done my wilderness terrain, 4 trees is 9 hours. going for 50 trees minmum but if I can do 75 I'll have extreme layout flexibility.
>>
>>98204954
hint 1: real life military guns are intentionally given non-reflective finishes
hint 2: a bolter is mostly flat surfaces that wouldn't do anything special reflection wise even if they were highly polished
hint 3: you don't care about any of this because nmm isn't about looking realistic
>>
>>98205559
for reference here is the real life gun that looks the most like a bolter.
>>
File: 1357041-3200397-right.jpg (123 KB, 1200x793)
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>>98205559
NTA
1: Pic related.
2: Ever seen a mirror?
3: Yes it is, unless you're doing something fantastical with it.
>>
>>98205615
most modern guns are covered in plastic. old military guns were covered with blue rust. guns like that are for hte civilian market.
>>
>>98205615
>military guns
>>
>>98205660
>>98205681
Fair enough. But if they exist in real life, they can exist in a sci-fi/fantasy setting.
>>
File: s-l1600.jpg (73 KB, 610x831)
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>>98204464
>>98203790
how about the guy from the bottom just cover up his scar and create a scar on the left side? also probably will have to green stuff a bit the hair.
>>
>>98205566
Bolters are not made of plastic like that piece of shit.
>>
>>98204247
did you paint this garage kit? I got a garage kit from japan as a gift, but I am an absolute noob to them. I know I have to use airbrush, specially on the skin. The eyes seem difficult but worst case scenario I will just get decals lol.

Any help and advice I would appreciate, specially if you have insta or somewhere to talk to y
>>
>>98205879
>I have to use airbrush
No, you can paint it any way you want.
>>
>>98205883
NTA but I really wish people didn't equivocate between
>the police won't come to your house and take your minis if you paint them in an unorthodox way
and
>there's a preferred way to paint something due to lore or technique.
Are you allowed to use a brush on a huge flat surface? Yes. Will it look anywhere near as good as airbrushing? No.
The only way I can imagine pulling it off is with some really opaque and matte paints, like Golden SoFlat or Turner Acrylic Gouache. But this is the airbrush's home turf.
>>
>>98205900
that's just a style thing though. rarely are you ever actually optimizing the best way to do something in this hobby. acrylics aren't even the best paint to use.
>>
File: 20260614_125258.jpg (1.76 MB, 2992x2992)
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>>98203481
Hi /wip/! I just got into the hobby thanks to Space Marine 2. After messing around with the 10th edition introduction kit I went and got this guy, Tzarketh Bane of Law, at a local hobby store because I thought he looked cool. This is how he's looking so far just using the GW starter paints.
>>
>>98205977
Sorry for sideways photo, ill do better next time
>>
>>98205984
unforgivable. banished from the thread. for future reference though you can just crop a single pixel on your phone and it'll keep the verticality.
>>
File: 1647629722840.gif (1.89 MB, 462x427)
1.89 MB GIF
>>98205977

>>98205984
I'm gonna post it anyway.
>>
>>98205944
Plenty of people do go beyond acrylics on some level.
Also, acrylics are best for keeping colors clean.
>be me, buy oil paints to test
>do some alla prima blending on the mini
>it's very smooth but I can't get the highlights as bright as I would like
>look up how to blend oils while keeping colors clean
>it says to glaze blend
>MFW I could have just been using acrylics
At least I had a gift card for the oils.
>>
File: IMG_2760.jpg (1.42 MB, 4032x3024)
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My knights are finished. I’ll post some more.
>>
>>98206203
>>98205994
>>
File: IMG_2761.jpg (1.45 MB, 4032x3024)
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>>98206203
>>
File: IMG_2766.jpg (1.34 MB, 4032x3024)
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>>98206224
Dammit
>>
File: IMG_2769.jpg (1.31 MB, 4032x3024)
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>>98206239
Here’s a funky boy I did for fun.
>>
File: 1766947352878853.jpg (4.16 MB, 5100x2600)
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>>98205879
Those kind of eyes are usually done with decals or are already sculpted, I would need to see her parts out of box. I was not painting garage kits myself so far (that girl model I did was made out of Bandai 30MS and 30MM series optional parts sets put together) and only few 3D prints but they had eyes already in place (empty but it was not that much of a problem), pic related (they were all made with brush, yet they were all 75mm in high, I assume that typical garage kit is somewhere around 150mm)

Also, you don't really need an airbrush, it's just that it will take longer and it will be harder to achieve smooth color transitions but it adds to the charm. Since you will need a lot of skintones here, I think that those two videos gives good advices on this process: https://youtube.com/watch?v=yrjtjuXFg2w and https://youtube.com/watch?v=KZHd4BIAVK8 (note that second one uses only brush instead of combination of brush + airbrush). Generally start with even coverage of equivalent of AK Beige Red and go up from there, progressively adding lighter skintones and some ivory. Anime girls tend to have much lighter skin with minimal contrast so you might even start with something light right away. Oil washes are also very good for skin shadows, usually some mix of light brown and red. There is also an option in form of makeup sponge, it's quite good for making highlights while avoiding recesses.

>>98205249
>>98204874
>>98204838
>>98204261
Thanks, guys!
>>
Now I saw that "1/8 scale" on box, which probably means something like 20-25cm. Big girl (for you), which probably definitely means having to use airbrush.
>>
>he paints shadows on a 3d object
ISHYGDDT
>>
Superglue from pinning the kommandos was fully cured, went back and touched up their feet and painted in the shadows on the bases, just for >>98206362. Now to let that fully dry then I'll paint the rims black and matte varnish everything one last time. Here's the oil palette now that the projects done, this is from the second half of the project. After 6 times being thawed out from the freezer the paints were definitely starting to become a little unworkable. The transparents and semitransparents were still pretty fluid inside but had formed dried shells, the opaques were almost all fully hardened. In the top left my titanium white was fully hardened and stuck to the top of the aluminum foil that sealed the case, came right off my palette lol.

Next project will be the word bearers kill team, going to do another couple test models to settle on mixes for the metallics. Going to use the metallic silver oil to mix my metallic colors, the dark silver/bronze/gold are easy but still tinkering to get a good looking copper.
>>
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I got hundreds and hundreds of leftover heads and arms with weapons left after building my minis.
Which is actually... quite a shame. Feels like a lot of wasted money and potential.
Do you know a good use for them? I assume there are no model makers out there that sell just bodies with legs for kitbashing?
>>
>>98206276
those examples are all a different style compared to the usual garage kit one. you will never be able to achieve the "box art" look without an airbrush because it relies on layering transparent colors.
>>
>>98206566
Pics or it didn't happen faggot
>>
>>98206566
3d print some bodies and legs
>I don't have a printer
make a greenstuff mold and cast some bodies and legs

wah lah
>>
Did a little freehand on my Spess Wulf.
Not sure what I'm gonna do with the pelt and the basing yet.
>>
>>98206632
very nice
>>
>>98206592
Why would you need proof of that? Unless you're gluing 3 heads and 6 arms on every mini its guaranteed to happen
>>
>>98206592
How is what I said such an outlandish claim?
Anyone who's been in the hobby for a couple of years should have a bunch of leftover sprues lying around. In each of those you find (half) a dozen heads and arms.
I can't make photos right now because, and I wish I was joking, the newest software update fucking killed my Samsung Galaxy S21.
It's stuck in a boot loop and nothing works.
>>
>>98206632
>freehand
...Where?
>>
I got in over my head with my current project and now I'm paralyzed to work on it.
>>
>>98206632
Why does this picture look so crunchy?
>>
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>>98203045
Progress. Had some trouble with particles getting into the white of the cloak. I don't want to strip it and would rather do better next time so I leaned into it and made the robe fuzzy.
>>
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>>98206902
Not sure how to go about the club yet.
>>
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I'm on a dreadful run for finishing models. Desk is getting crowded. Today's diversion was the olive green which I really like (payne's grey shadows, AP tundra taupe for yellowed highlights).
>>
>>98206224
>you spin me right round baby
Looks good, anon. Simple but effective.
>>
>>98206724
Like any big task, break it down into smaller more manageable chunks.
>>
>>98206724
Another option is to take a mental break and do another project. Brain will continue to process first. Don't do more than 2 since that usually exceeds threshold.
>>
>>98206922
That olive green has very nice transitions. Well done anon.
>>
>>98206719
blind
>>
>>98206716
Hundreds and hundreds of heads and arms? Really? Hundreds??
>I actually just want to see your 'uge bits pile if it actually exists
>>
>>98206922
I really like the softness of your cloths
>>
File: 1431194958984.gif (1.55 MB, 400x286)
1.55 MB GIF
>Tried to prime white on a hot day
>fuzzy models
I hate mudslimes


They had nothing to do with this but I choose to blame them
>>
>>98207166
>They had nothing to do with this
Do you know that for a fact??
>>
>>98207178
You're right.
I bet if there were less muslims, there be more pork being cooked and it would chemically prevent this.
Fuck islam bros.

I hear that putting another layer might smooth it out when the weather cools?
>>
>>98207187
nothing stopping you from stripping in the meantime
>>
>>98203821
The lesson here is Homey don't play dat
>>
File: Marines WIP.jpg (824 KB, 2918x1344)
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I finally have something to contribute (even if it's shitty) after putting off painting again for so long.
More to follow.
>>
File: Forgefiend WIP 5.jpg (1.25 MB, 2445x1706)
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>>98207255
Attention was split today but I finally managed to get the trim done on the main body for this thing. Now I've gotta do the pipes and everything else.
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>>98207262
And finally this shit. Buggers have been sitting around unpainted since 2021.
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Anyone have a black legion recipe in lieu of going out and buying a pot of black legion?
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>>98207303
None of my black recipes would include going out and buying a pot of black legion.
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>>98207303 (me)
also having given ttc oblivion black another shot by mixing with a black paint, I'm still finding that it dries/stains way too quickly which keeps me from adjusting after applying. Also the bottles are atrocious, the shape makes it jam with the mixing ball and my bottle's nearly at half from seepage when I definitely haven't used that much. Also the whole range seems to crust extremely, even some premixes have welded themselves shut
>>
>>98207303
The recipe is to paint black, then highlight it with dark grey.
If you don't want to go out and get another paint then there's no point in giving a specific recipe because we don't know what paints you have.
>>98207323
>buying TTC
Easy mistake to make.
>>
>>98206430
Thanks for posting this, we don't get a lot of palette shots.
From what I know about oil paints, wouldn't keeping them away from oxygen be more effective than keeping them cool?
Looking forward to your WB, oils haven't clicked for me but you're one of the better painters /here/.
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>>98206239
that's a neat looking salamander
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>>98207394
Posting it here too, anyone know of Primaris-sized normal humans?
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>>98205944
>>98205900
I really want to use airbrush on this because I want to make it look like those pvc display figures, which is how the box art for this figure looks like. I want to know what colors the JP tend to use for garage kits, the skin, the hair, etc..
>>
>>98207381
Well thank you, 4chan is the only website that I post my minis on so I appreciate it. I've weaponized my autism in some tests to keep my palette usable across multiple sessions, limiting air does slow down the paint on the palette from drying but popping it into the freezer slows it down even more. My palette there is a piece of cardboard with some parchment paper tacked onto it with some dots of elmers glue, its sitting in an old AP wet palette case since it has a well fitting lid on it. I put a piece of aluminum foil over the top of the paints then the middle part of the palette goes on top of that to seal it tight, then the lid and the strap to hold it all together. I can usually take it out of the freezer and thaw the paints five or six times before the paint becomes too unusable, takes about fifteen or twenty minutes for it to warm up enough. I've enjoyed learning to use the oils, they're definitely not for everyone but I like the workflow and being able to work on a mini over a couple days as the oil sets.
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>>98203790
old firstborn space marine squad box, the squad sergeant head should do the trick.
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>>98207459
Reminds me of Miss America from Coonskin.
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>>98207502
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>>98206276
I see. I will post the kit once it arrives.
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Why are my light blue layers here so awful looking? I'm thinning them all the way down.
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>>98207531
How much does this tupperware sandwich container lined with tinfoil cost?
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>>98207584
10,000 years at the dollar store
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>>98207553
You haven't used an inkwash yet for shading, nor have you gone back over that with volumetric or edge highlights.
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>>98207553
Might just be a shitty paint, white pigments can be pretty chunky and that light blue could have a lot of white in it
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>>98207553
Can't see shit desu, but it looks fine. Maybe it will look better with a wash.
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>>98207584
It used to be the army painter wet palette, so I think between $10 - $15 years ago? Just recycled it since I wasnt painting with acrylics and didnt need the wet palette. Use a dry palette if I need to do any acrylic work these days. The palette inside is a piece of scrap cardboard I cut to fit and some parchment paper. Some of the excess oil from the paint will be absorbed by the cardboard so the paint dries on the mini faster. On the opaque paints it's not too noticeable, but the transparents will dry several days faster. Once the cardboard gets too funky I just toss it for a new piece.
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>>98207459
I'm not an expert but from what I have seen the skin is mostly done with transparent red over a white base. some videos I have watched used the mr hobby lascivus line which I think is meant for skin.
>>
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>>98203481
Working on my Army of Faith box
>>
Do you subscribe to any mini painting patreons? I'm thinking of subbing to the Elminiturista patreon for a month and grabbing all the tutorials.
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>>98207846
na I just paint my guys lmao
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>>98207910
Proof or it didn't happen.
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Working on my first Skaven. Any tips? Feel like he isn't really popping.
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god danmit it i think i broke my 3d printer on the first day of having it
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>>98207931
Must have come out the box that way, sounds like you need a refund.
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>>98207944
nah it was pure stupidity on my part
it was printing just fine , i did two test prints
a shitty racing car that was on the card already and i metal gear rex i downloaded
i printed twice with it just fine now every print i do comes loolike like it was made out of papercraft, and when the things moves it cranks like a motherfucker
>>
>>98207931
what is the issue? /3dpg/ hasn't been up for over a day so maybe I can help identify if it is busted or you're just making a mistake.
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>>98207957
So it came that way. And you're getting a refund?
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>>98207957
describe what you did that makes you think you have caused an issue, and provide a better description of this "looks like papercraft" or better yet, a photo.
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>>98207969
>>98207963
how can i explain
the 'layers' of the print are not mixing together anymore

i can peel the print layer by layer like it was made out of paper
here is a print i canceled halfway

>>98207968
cant it was a gift
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>>98207979
and the actual model i printed beforehand
all the layers fused, as they are should be
i think
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>>98207979
that is a z-offset and/or temperature issue.
what material?
z-offset is usually manually tuned.
FDM is the most fiddly when it comes to getting it dialed in just right.
But the fact that you've got filament coming out of your nozzle AND your objects are being shaped properly means your printer is not in any way broken, you just need to go do a bunch of learning on how to tune it correctly.
Resin is plug and play if you want it to be, FDM requires that you make it into a new hobby and become at least semi-professionally knowledgeable about it.
>>
>>98207991
>Resin is plug and play if you want it to be, FDM requires that you make it into a new hobby and become at least semi-professionally knowledgeable about
lol what?
>>
>>98207994
go start up a new /3dpg/ if you want to continue this as an argument, I'm only going to help anon figure out his problem.
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>>98207991
i see
ill keep fidling with cura until i unfuck the settings then

thanks anon
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>>98207979
sorta looks like under-extrusion
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>>98208006
Not in cura, or at least not just in cura, your z-offset and temperature settings will be primarily adjusted on the printer itself.
I very much reccommend spending a few afternoons watching videos to learn more about the various issues you can have.
Hopefully you're using PLA because that's the easiest to get working right, TPU comes in second but I doubt you're using the pseudo-rubber to make /tg/ stuff.
ABS can be extra difficult and will require an enclosure to prevent the layer separation issue (which is where the "it might be temperature" comes in, otherwise I'm quite certain it's z-offset)
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>>98207323
The TTC bottles are one thing, they're just especially awful when it comes to washes. Like holy fuck not even the Monument Tax™ is anywhere as bad, even a Citadel pot would be preferable to work with.
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Really enjoying the Legions Imperialis size but I need to touch up some shoulder pads where my contrast bled over.
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>>98207166
I had a similar issue
>my bottle of contrast paint falls and spills on the carpet
Jews I swear
>>
>>98207979
Looks like under extrusion or z-offset needs to be dialed in
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>>98208042
wish there were xenos or daemons in that scale
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>>98208054
Yeah as a big Necrons guy I would love for them to update the small scale they used to have before I got into the hobby. Silver lining is it has helped me personally enjoy some the HH stuff.
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>>98208000
You aren't helping anyone by being retarded.
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>>98208041
You can buy alternate caps for pro acryl paints.
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>>98203481
What is the least painful way to pin a head to a body? I once stuck a piece of a paperclip to the bottom of a head's neck joint, but it was a pain in the ass to make the body's pin hole just right so the head had the pose I wanted. Maybe a toothpick "pedestal" in the body's neck joint before test fitting the head, gluing the head to the toothpick, removing the head/toothpick from the body, and cutting down the toothpick so the head covers the toothpick hole when it is reinserted?

I'm trying to do this because it's much easier to paint bodies and heads separately, but I also don't want to use my unpainted guys in games with obvious globs of blutack holding the heads on. The desired ideal outcome is that I can give the heads a peg to add stability in play, while also being removable from the body so I have a nice spot to clip onto when painting that wouldn't get in the way of actually painting the head.
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Trying my high-contrast idea on a black basecoat instead of the dark green I had been using, and I like it much better.
Still takes me forever because I'm using a brush, but I think it's worth it.
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>>98207926
Your horns, fur and skin all kinda run together as the same color, which are all also pretty warm toned like the red armor. Could be why you’re not feeling the pop
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>>98208196
Damn what a conundrum. Truly a confounding bamboozling situation you find yourself in.
>>
Any tips on getting smooth coats on metal miniatures and not a more grainy look due to the natural texture on metal minis?
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>>98208196
>I'm trying to do this because it's much easier to paint bodies and heads separately, but I also don't want to use my unpainted guys in games with obvious globs of blutack holding the heads on
as long as you are actually painting over time I doubt your opponents will mind playing a game or two against headless minis
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>>98208384
You might be able to do some light sanding and polishing in some areas and fill any pitting with some putty. That said, for the most part I think it’s better to just leave it.
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>>98208384
either use some kind if microfilling primer, or use a bit thicker paint, not much more you can do
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>>98208196
I magnetize my heads. Little flat head sewing pin in the head itself, and a small 1mmx1mm magnet in the body.
>>
>>98208543
Are you a Iron Hands player?
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>>98208291
Are you priming black and then painting you green making sure not to paint on the black recesses?
Wouldnt it be better to basecoat with green and then apply a black oil wash?
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>>98208738
Nta but I've had this recommended to me too. I don't have oil washes or an airbrush yet. The simplicity of green on black primer is very satisfying and gets a decent result, even if it isn't the meta.
>>
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I decided as a break I would paint a tiny mini using a limited color palette. Unfortunately I picked the color palette before deciding to paint a gobbo and I didn't really include any of my normal green skin tones. but I think the skin still turned out okay.
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>>98208866
Aw cute, I like winter gobbo
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>>98207910
based.

>>98207846
Nah. as somebody who has consumed paid mini painting content, let me tell you the truth. The tutorials and stuff fan only get you so far, and all of it is essentially available for free if you want it anyway. The only paid miniature painting learning you should do is in-person workshops or 1:1 coaching, and/or critiques from professional mini painters.
Except for the 2 FAQ books. Those things are based, even if kind of expensive.
>>
Ionic/Atom paints, whats the consensus?
Keep it or sneed it?
>>
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>>98205411
cool, i am working on some similar terrain. do you mind sharing the source of your files? i'd like to print some more but i don't want exact duplicates of the stuff i already have
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>>98208995
Why don't you just buy a handful of pots and tell us?
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>>98208995
If they're anything like Ammo Atom, they're pretty nice to work with. Some are a bit thicker than others, I've noticed. Uniform Blue and Navy Blue were fine to use straight out of the bottle, while Coral Pink needed to be thinned some more.
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>>98207459
>I want to know what colors the JP tend to use for garage kits, the skin, the hair, etc..
There are a few dedicated fleshtone collections that are popular right now; Gunze/Mr Color have their Lascivus range, which is built on a layering system of opaque colours for basecoating, clear colours for adding shadows and blush, while Gaianotes have a line to support the Frame Arm Girls kits consisting of opaque shadow- and mid-tones that you'd use thin layers to build gradations with
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>>98207303
Black legion gives a great base for drybrushing since it dries very smooth and evenly. Neutral and warm greys works well for highlighting it since it's a warm black itself.

>>98207323
>>98208041
I've been slowly replacing all the bottles of my TTC paints, glad to hear I'm not the only one having issues with them so it's not a user error.
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>>98209376
The TTC paints I have that aren't washes aren't as fickle, at least. Although Pale Skin is still quite overly thin for some reason, unsure if it's a bad batch. The metallics seem to behave alright, but I dunno if I'd pick up one of Duncan's golds or opt for Vallejo's new ones.
>>
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I am delighted to report I did not fuck up the varnish on this guy
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>>98208866
Skin looks good, what colors are.you going to use for the clothes?
>>
Since someone mentioned varnishes - I have a problem with mine chipping. Since I use acrylics, I cannot use lacquer varnishes (consulates this with guys doing scale models and they also advised against that, based on their own experience with using Mr Hobby GX ones on acrylic paints with airbrush), the most durable, in theory, I tried was Vallejo Mecha Color line matt one but paint still gets chipped at edges or similar places. Not dramatic but it does show. Then again, it usually chips away along with primer so maybe it's a matter of (acrylic) primer not bounding properly. But at the other hand, recently tried Tamiya lacquer primer on plastic and it still chipped. Anyone faced similar problem and found solution?
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>>98209023
Same source as you, those are the other files I have for housing in the same theme.
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>>98205411
>4 trees is 9 hours
wat? can you post a closeup of the trees? that seems insanely long for the blobs in the photo
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>>98209461
I've been getting great results from krylon crystal clear.
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I have finished another torso.
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Is it a bad idea to paint 10mm dudes who are already on the base? Say like for Warmaster where they show up in rows of two, is that going to be a bitch to paint? Or is it just best to paint them off base first and base after?
>>
>go to buy a paint bundle
>it's more expensive than just buying the paints individually
why do they do this
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>>98209556
Never in my life have I seen such a thing
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>>98209514
very nice proxies
i prefer the 3rd edition metals myself
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>>98209480
Cheers, was it cults3d? I will have to go back and have a better look in that case.
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Making progress on my Barbarians
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>>98209651
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Live footage of me going fucking insane trying to drill holes with a knife because I do not have a hand drill.
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>>98209700
damn those vietcong sniping with their at guns from the treetops
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>>98209700
>with a knife
fucking hell, use a philips scredriver, or a hot nail
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>>98209569
pro acryl is $4.50 for me but the pack of 6 I was looking at is $28.50
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>>98208884
I skimmed through one of the FAQ books and found it a little too Art 101 and lacking in actionable material. A lot of “Did you know faces have green in them?” and explaining what concepts are rather than how to do them.
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>>98209592
Cults and thingiverse, just search "viking terrain"
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>>98209447
I'm thinking assorted leathery browns and neutrals and the scarf will be like a more saturated red. I only have 1 dark red and 1 bright red in the color palette to mix from. I'm only using picrel colors (the 5 drops around the top and left). And I think I want to keep the one greeny color as limited as I can so that the skin maintains some separation.
>>
feel like my algorithm has been feeding me a bunch of videos of people making their own texture palettes but is this actually a useful thing or just a meme? it's not like you can clean the paint off so wouldn't you eventually just end up clogging up the textures on the palette with paint and defeating the purpose?
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>>98208738
I don't have oils.
I did experiment with green base and black templar contrast, but it was too messy for my taste.
Something about painting not quite to the edge of the panel gives the model a 3d pop to my eyes that I am a huge fan of.
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>>98209946
I think they probably work mostly as advertised. It would take a long time to clog the detail up. However I do think they're gimmicky and not really necessary. I say that as somebody who doesn't do a lot of drybrushing though. If you did maybe it makes more sense.
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>>98209946
>it's not like you can clean the paint off
Bro just use water and a toothbrush?? or IPA??
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>>98209946
They're useful in that you can see how much paint you're applying with the drybrush on something with texture, same thing can be done by checking on a test model. With the homemade texture palette once it gets too funked up you just spray a new layer of primer over the top and start over. If you do a lot of drybrushing you can do this when you prime your next set of models to paint. While useful its by no means essential.
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>>98209946
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>>98209946
My algorithm has been feeding me a bunch of videos of people painting minis at an absolute beginner level but presenting the whole thing as a tutorial for other people.

It shouldn't irritate me but it does, I'm ashamed to admit.
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>>98210007
>HOW TO PAINT HIGH QUALITY *Insert Model Name*
>Thumbnail is edited to shit and in block lettering says something like FAST or EASY
>video is white/grey primer, drybrush and a heaping slop of speed paint
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>>98210028
>on a rotating platform for the "glamor shots" at the end
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>>98210007
Yup. For sure. I was getting that recently too.
Less what other anon is describing with speedpaint/drybrush slop, in my case it was mostly just meaningless poking at the model with a brush for most of the video, and then like anon2 says a rotating 'glamor' shot at the end that is usually not even a finished model.
It is very irritating, but I don't recall them having many views either so at least there is that.
>>
>>98210007
>>98210074
How long have you been painting that you still feel the need to have sloptubers show you how to do it?
St a certain point you're just asking for it.
Once you know what to do it's just repetition and refinement, if you watch beyond that you're seeking entertainment and not education, so flashy trash videos is what you're given, because that's what you want, even if you can't/won't outright recognize and admit it.
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>>98210007
I do on some level appreciate that they exist just because it can be nice to see the process of people who aren’t at a competition level of painting. A lot of the more popular mini painting YouTube channels will advertise a video as being a tutorial or explanation of some sort and then the video is pic related. Rarely are they any good at explaining the process and hiccups you might run into too
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>>98210094
What a stupid post just because you wanted to be combative
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>>98210140
I can appreciate that they want to just call out people bringing up youtube bullshit, but yeah it's a pretty silly angle.

>>98210126
The more popular mini painters, for most of their content, and especially their short-form content, are just showing off their skills, not trying to inform you on them. The reality is that the procedures they teach could all be taught in an afternoon, and the thing that actually matters is that they are usually a trained traditional artist with a developed eye that tells them how to get their internal vision out and onto the mini/paper/canvas/any-medium.
And those procedures can take you pretty far compared to the average but there's a ceiling on it.
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>>98209461
I've tried to explain this multiple times before and no one ever understands but chipping is usually a surface prep problem
>>
its a really good question why do people watch youtube painting videos if they already know how to paint
lore videos i understand and watching battle reports but watching someone else paint goes beyong my comprehension
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>>98210160
Preparation as in what - cleaning? Giving it a little rough run with sandpaper?
>>
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>>98210154
>that one small youtuber that you liked that focused a lot on color theory
>not just how to paint but why the colors worked together so you could jump from that and make your own choices
>made videos for a year then just disappeared
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>>98210173
>watching someone else paint goes beyong my comprehension
But that's how I learned to paint - by trying to replicate movements and order of someone much more experienced. Learning entirely on your own is much slower.
>>
>>98210173
>its a really good question why do people watch youtube painting videos if they already know how to paint

People are afraid they are going to "ruin" their minis so they want to do research and learn before making "mistakes". You see it in these threads as well, people want to be sure they're not going to make mustard gas by accident before painting their first intercessor. Used to be we'd have to look to magazines or maybe a forum to get tips or answers to questions, with the internet as it is now people have a deluge of information to sift through which makes it seem much more complicated than it is. Its paint and plastic, nothing to ruin. If you don't like something you can paint over it, change colors, start over, or strip and start from scratch. But saying that doesn't get rewarded by the algorithm like endless technique and ideal paint brand videos do.
>>
>>98210173
Does the notion that you can always learn something new to improve yourself really go beyond your comprehension?
if so, you sound pretty stupid and limited, anon.
>>
How come retards in /wip/ tell noobs to not look at guides and tutorials, but then tell them it's fucked and to strip and start over as soon as they post a (predictably) shitty looking first model?
>>
>>98210173
Your journey in the arts is never complete. Learning from other people is one of the best ways to keep growing, even if it’s just seeing them approach something in a different way. Learning fundies and then burying your head in the sand and grinding out models is the worst way to progress as an artist.
>>
>>98210203
I mean yes the apprehension behind starting is definitely a real thing but I also think the rest of your point is a bit overly cynical. I was unhappy with a model the other day after trying three different color palettes I stripped it and then looked up videos of people painting the model or something similar as well as pictures of peoples finished work on Reddit and instagram to collate the things I did and didn’t like and get a better idea of both what I wanted and the techniques people used to get there. Having a wealth of information doesn’t have to be a bad thing.
>>
>>98210175
you should be doing both. if paint is chipping off it means it isn't strongly bonded to the substrate.
>>
Are people not trying to learn or try new things every time they paint? I read and watch a lot of mini painting content because I want to do something different every time. I’d hate this hobby if I was just doing the same base coat, wash, highlight assembly line day in day out
>>
>>98210186
>made videos for a year then just disappeared
Probably finished the topic.
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>>98210214
I don't recommend NOT looking at tutorials, but I think just learning to copy/paste procedures is not very helpful. It CAN be, but again you can learn all that stuff in an afternoon, you already know it and are just consuming it for entertainment. I think people should learn where to put the right colors on purpose, rather than hoping the drybrush and constrast paint does it for them.
But I also always recommend against stripping. Unless it's really caked on paint the benefit isn't worth the effort it takes.
>>
>>98210279
Half of the people in this hobby are just slapping shit together for the tabletop, and the other half play tabletop only to justify buying and painting more minis.
>>
>>98210279
They do but it doesn't mean there is no point in watching or listening to someone who already tried that. What's the point of re-inventing the wheel and doing same mistakes when it can be avoided?
>>
>>98210248
>Having a wealth of information doesn’t have to be a bad thing.

I agree, having a wealth of information isn't a bad thing. It becomes a hinderance when it gives people analysis paralysis due to so much information from different sources with (possibly) incentives like brand sponsorships to push certain products or techniques. People already in the hobby can sift through it easier thanks to background knowledge, but someone brand new might get talked into getting expensive paint sets/tools/whatever that they don't necessarily need because a onions face told them it was essential.
>>
>>98210284
stripping is the only thing that will fix texture problems which is the main reason anyone would suggest stripping and starting over
>>
>test model is ever so slightly different from the rest of my army
>not different enough to justify re painting, but different enough to be noticeable if you look closely
fugg
>>
>>98210558
nobody other than you will never notice the difference
you learn to live with it
>>
>>98208884
Yeah books are better, the old FoW Colours of War book was really good.
>>
>>98210279
I experiment on test minis. Sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn't, when I get too "clever" on minis that are part of a project I sometimes end up stripping them.
>>
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Are there any smart, handsome and well-to-do anons who knows how to achieve this white, furry overcoat look? I'm a newbie who wants my lion to look like that
>>
>>98209651
>>98209659
that red base is really satisfying
reminds me of soapstone carvings
>>
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This might be a stupid question, but what's the difference between the elastic tin foil that green stuff world sells compared to normal tin foil? I want to try out the rivet trick anon told me in the previous thread.
>>
>>98210671
You want to do progressively thinner lines with your highlights. I found this video helpful:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8KJCOy6-Qvw
>>
>>98210671
look up any hair painting tutorial. vince v has loads.
>>
>>98210737
>>98210744
Thank you smart, handsome and well-to-do anons, I will check them both out
>>
>>98210715
It's thicker than regular aluminum/tin foil you get from the store. It's also got lead in it, per the description "This material is a 3-layer laminate, the two outer layers are tin crafts, and the central one, sandwich-type, which is made of lead and gives it flexibility. It includes lead in its interior, but it is coated and hidden inside the material itself."

Basically it's thicker and heavier and the lead holds shape better than just aluminum.
>>
>>98210671
If you're a newb, then good luck. That's a lot of time with a very fine tip doing a fuck ton of very thin off-white lines one at a time over and over again on top of a light beige-brown base coat.
That takes patience and fine muscle control, muscle control which takes a fair bit of experience to develop. Newbs to mini painting just haven't likely ever done anything that develops those particular muscles in the way miniature painting requires.
>>
Has anyone used PA jade/light jade/dark jade? I'm deciding between PA jade and Vallejo Jade for my next project.
>>
>started a new set of models over a week ago
>actually made negative progress since i stripped the model two nights ago
starting a new project always feels like such a mountain to climb because I struggle with the initial base coat and layers so much
>>
>>98210932
PA jade's my absolute favorite teal tone to work with, only used the shade/highlights once when painting an admech power blade but they worked well enough getting glazed on
>>
>>98210932
I don't know how it compares to vallejo's jade, but PA Jade is one of my favorite paint colors. It's very nice.
>>
>>98210937
I just paint, sometimes things turn out to a lower standard than other things, but the average trend over time is overall improvement.
Just paint.
>>
>>98210937
i love the planning and preparation and putting everything together until the eventual painting
then you can slowly see everything coming together and only thing you have to worry about is if the motivation will actually carry you to play with them in the end or just more clutter to fill youre shelves
>>
>>98210967
Yeah just kinda jumping in worked out really well for my last models but I'm doing ghouls now and glazing and blending my skin tones has been a real headache. i'm still not super confident with thinning my paint and i think i tend to put too little on the palette and overwork what's there. tough hobby to build confidence in without somewhere standing over me telling me what im doing wrong
>>
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>>98210932
PA jade on this squig, lovely color.
>>
>>98210789

Right, thanks for the reply. What about thicker foils that are also available on the market? A quick browse shows that this elastic foil is mostly out of stock where I'm located. Or do other manufacturers also produce it besides GSW?
>>
I'm going to strip my Space Marine minis from the Indomitus box. They're half done blood angels and other half test minis for painting techniques. I have simple green I plan on dunking them in, is there a better solution for stripping plastic minis? If possible removing the old white primer would help but not a necessity.
>>
>>98211003
try searching for thick aluminium foil of tinfoil
many hobby stores carry them, no ideat what they are used for but they are sold by the sheet like cardboard
>>
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>>98211010
Pour this into a jar undiluted and drop the marines in. After a day or so you can gently scrub them with a soft toothbrush then drop them back in if they need more to come off. Wear rubber dishwashing gloves, not latex or nitrile since it will eat through them, and wear eye protection. If it gets on your skin flush with water then wash with soap, it'll make your skin peel but shouldn't be too bad of a chemical burn. You can keep reusing the same solution until it doesn't strip anymore, at that point filter out the larger paint particles with some doubled up coffee filters, then dilute the cleaner with water and it can go down the drain. I did a test and left some dudes in for 10 months, it didn't affect the plastic but did make the super glue bonds on the bases weak and brittle.
>>
>>98211043
Kind of overkill. I keep a mason jar or normal strength isopropyl on my desk and letting a mini sit in there for ten minutes followed by a tooth brush scrub is enough.
>>
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I'm building a box of corsairs and I've magnetized their heads and arms. This allows me to run most of their loadouts. Problem is, some of the models have different back fins and other greebles that switch depending on loadout.

The psyker model holding the spirit stones has a sword on her back, the shade runner has the teleport generator thing, and the kneeling guy can have a ranger gun pouch thing on his back.

I can probably magnetize the back fins, even though they'd be super fiddly, but there are also two other bits that I don't think I could. One is the pouch across the duelist's chest, and the other is the pair of daggers on the shade runner's belt. They're right on the front of the model so there's nowhere to hide a magnet. I might be able to leave the pouches on, but it might interfere with the rifle option.

Is there a way to make these parts swappable? If not I'm probably just going to have to kitbash some extra corsairs from kabalites or guardians.

>why do you even care
I want to be able to run voidscarred and voidreavers without buying another box.
>just say they have a different loadout than they do
No.
>>
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>>98211023

Found this, thanks!
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>>98211106
Yes, pay the hobby tax
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>>98211073
I do a lot of test minis trying things out and just toss them into a jar once done. I also use it diluted for cleaning so it works for me lol.
>>
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>>98210932
>>
>>98211106
aluminium might not be as easy to punch if you are looking to make rivets, look for videos or something
>>
>>98211327
PA:
>Jade
>Is actually a forest green
Vallejo:
>Jade Green
>Is actually a dark turquoise

Man I fucking hate stahly but I hate model paint companies even more.
>>
>>98211376
its softer than plastic or plasticard atleast
>>
>>98211394
>forest green
check your monitor's color calibration bro
>>
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>>98211400
>>
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Finally worked up the courage to work with greenstuff for the first time and get the exarch for my Dire Avengers assembled, pretty happy how the gap filling exercise turned out and hopefully his arm being 1/3 greenstuff won't be too noticeable when he's painted.
>>
>>98211394
>PA Jade
>forest green
dis nigga colorblind fr
>>
>>98203815
Don’t spray matte varnish from a can. Instead mix it half and half with contrast medium and brush it on. Deco Art makes a really good ultra matte varnish that works with this method. Using contrast medium or flow improver helps slow down drying time so all the matte particulate can settle flat before drying.
>>
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>>98211400
>>98211434
I don't think it's as far off as you guys are pretending it is.
>>
>>98211327
I checked that but I don't think it'd be very representative of the actual real life colors, given that the PA Jade color has the symbol that means it's more saturated in real life.
>>
>>98211429
Hell yeah, looks sick maybe run a round file over the arm a wee bit if you're worried
>>
>>98210677
I'm not sure what I did different to my usual, but it's turned out far more saturated than I've ever had it before.
I did rebottle and pre-thin my paints to an exact 2:1 water:paint ratio recently, but it's very surprising if that alone is making the difference.
>>
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>>98211083
Just glue the extra gibblets down. If you're running them as normal corsairs it doesn't make a difference ruleswise and visually it's just extra gear.
>>
>>98211538
Very nice. How’d you get those legs and waistcloths on the craftworld torsos?
>>
>>98211536
>I did rebottle and pre-thin my paints to an exact 2:1 water:paint ratio recently
lmao why?
>>
>>98211554
They just plug right in, the dire avengers and kabalites have the same lego/torso connection. The middle guy required cutting and finessing which is why the pauldron looks weird
>>
>>98211572
For precision and to save time, that's exactly the right ratio for my paint, so now they're all in droppers and ready to use.
>>
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ultra early WIP first coats of paint blocking in two whole colors.
>>
>>98211662
It's art and this dude's got "exactly the right ratio" of water in his paints ffs we breed some winners here.
>>
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Decided to do something smaller and simpler before the planned tracked Impulsor kitbash, so here's an early wip of my Raptor heavy dreadnought. It's still missing some parts, battle damage, and detailing, but it's coming together.
>>
>>98211997
I've been using these paints for years and I've got them figured out, so I'm just tired of eyeballing the thinning every single time.
So yeah, I grabbed a syringe and measured out 5ml of distilled water in each bottle then topped them all off with 10ml of paint, didn't take much time given they're 15 ml bottles and the syringe only went up to 5ml.
>>
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Bought some old BT mechs and a week of sitting in isopropyl hasn't gotten the primer completely off. This is honestly probably fine for repriming but I'm anal and paranoid, what's my next best step here? Acetone?
>>
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>>98212224
>Acetone?
Goof Off works wonders, but Acetone is 1/4 the price.
>>
>>98212238
>>98212224
Acetone is STRONG AF. Just make sure you are pouring that shit outside when you do
>>
>>98212253
>>98212238
Acetone it is, thanks anons.
>>
Final result for my panzer IV.
>>
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My LGS is doing a Conquest clearout. Would these guys make for some decent Votann or Fyreslayers conversions?
>>
>>98212287
Just don't soak it for too long (or dilute it a bit I guess) since acetone can melt your plastic
>>
>>98212337
It's a metal model so should be good, I wouldn't put plastic in acetone. But thanks for the caution.
>>
>>98212334
they're 38mm scale, much bigger than 40k
>>
>>98212404
Holy fuck, do they play on a 7'x15' table to compensate for that scale creep?!
>>
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Waiting for the glue on the bases to dry overnight before I can continue with these.
>>
>shake up my vallejo model air metallic aluminum
>go to put a couple drops in my dry palette
>don't catch that the dropper tip somehow got stuck to the cap so I dumped half the bottle into the palette
well fuck me
>>
>>98212477
Hope you have a pipette or at least a dropper handy to suck it back up
>>
>buying paint
>reee make sure there's no lead in it, gotta have a loicence for 'at
>buying minis
>here's your lead bro
>>
>>98212529
We can't even buy hobby paints that aren't water based on Canada
>>
>>98212458
Based desu.
>>98212549
Holy fuck that's grim. We were gonna liberate you guys but too many people complained, and we didn't want you to be able to vote in our elections. Sorry.
>>
>>98212224
acetone and if it doesn't come off with a toothbrush or plastic bristle brush use a brass wire brush, try to avoid using steel wire brushes if you can. you will probably not get it all out without using a toothpick to dig stuff out of some of the crevices.
>>98212253
>concern trolling over acetone fumes
reddit pls go
>>
>>98212224
if those are metal acetone should have been your first step.

>>98212253
the only danger from acetone is it catching on fire. I spilled half a bottle on myself before and all that happened was making my skin a little dry. it didn't even stain my pants.
>>
it's funny that this thread will worry about acetone or the tiny amount of fumes from a few drops of enamel paint, but will then turn around and airbrush with zero ventilation because it's only acrylic paint and put greenstuff in their mouths.
>>
>>98212681
>didn't even stain my pants
so they weren't rayon or another plastic fibre? because i'm pretty sure acetone would melt those.
>>
>>98212706
they were 5.11 pants which according to the tag are 65% polyester. acetone won't actually melt plastic on content, at least not plastic like nylon and abs and whatever glocks are made out of. I wouldn't try soaking anything in it though.
>>
>>98212774
>at least not plastic like nylon and abs
Umm... anon? Acetone fumes is the standard method of smoothing ABS prints from an FDM printer because it melts the stuff reliably, mixing leftover ABS filament with ABS to create a sticky substance is also a common trick to fix bed adhesion issues on an FDM printer.
I don't know about nylon, but ABS absolutely melts from acetone.
>>
>>98212792
I must have been mistaking abs for whatever magpul shit is made out of.



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