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File: Value-Set-15.jpg (39 KB, 556x643)
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Value Pack edition

>Full-on /WIP/ OP Links Pastebin:
https://pastebin.com/BE42AEcD

>WIP Tutorial Images Mega
https://mega.nz/#F!TvQFCaLb!w8WZKCcOsTRasxrI0JWezw

>Saint Duncan's "Six Things I Wish I Knew When I Started Painting"
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ufP8ka3KGno

>Saint Duncan also explains thinning your paints
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wxWgsqSf74s

>Paint thinning 102
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sBDVPoNXyVI

>4 EASY Chipping Tricks For Beginners
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ku4comhKHJM

>Decal Like a Pro
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SYKLiEW7p9c

>How to Edge Highlight
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KoRbYuAfbEk

>How to use contrast style paints
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IhholrozptI

>How to Paint with Tremors
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oqp76vAJu9g

>Airbrush Priming and Thinning
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jkntrSBvXxE
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IGjBQzoukFg
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=00JVUxABe44
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AEqT_R41JX8

>We're heading for home
>Before the dawn comes
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9_56DGlEHaw

>Who's Johnny, she'd say, and smile in her special way
https://1d6chan.miraheze.org/wiki/Johnny

previous thread:
>>98295076
>>
File: baddecal.jpg (658 KB, 1367x1971)
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This captain took me a couple weeks but he's almost done. Unfortunately I messed up appplying the shoulder decal. The wrinkles tore and trying to flatten it only made it worse. I tried to put some brown paint over the tears but it didn't look right.

I have micro set and sol but the more I try to use it to remove the decal it seems the more it sticks. Any help?
>>
File: IMG_20260706_113623.jpg (1.81 MB, 3486x2002)
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The knights are nearing completion. This has been a fun project, I've improved my masking tape skills, learned to make rivets from aluminium foil and that it's better to use cyanoacrylate gel and toothpicks for finicky assemblies.
>>
>>98311470
Thanks for the bake
>>98311476
Nice colours
>>98311481
These have come so far, well done
>>
File: dessert2.jpg (217 KB, 932x751)
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Slowly working out a new scheme. I can't decide if I like the light bodysuit or if it's too similar to the stone decorations. Black might be better just to have harder lines between sections idk.

Definitely needs more colours but that can come in the fancier boys with fabrics and stuff. The blue pops, and I think a wine red might go well to lean things more ancient Greek plains direction rather than simple desert.
>>
>>98311490
gonna be honest I think it'd look better if the thighs were brown instead of grey
>>
>>98311502
I like to have the layers of armour painted different colours. Makes them looks bigger and it's less tedious to paint.
>>
I don't like spray-priming and prefer brush-on primer
Is it over for me?
>>
>>98311555
We 'primed' with chaos black straight out of the pot (or whatever white) in the past no issue.
You're good.
>>
>>98311555
Don't worry anon, even people with major disabilities can be somewhat functional members of society.
>>
File: Big brain.jpg (195 KB, 1603x2299)
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Dug around my spare bits and made a giant floating nid brain, still deciding what to use it for
>>
>>98311575
very cool brain, anon
>>
>>98311560
god I remember this
streak marks before I even put a colour down
good times
>>
File: 20260706_143108.jpg (1.26 MB, 1804x1354)
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i know im not really welcome here but i finished boxnaught and bloodletter
that dread is so cool i have been dreaming about owning one forever and i hope i did it justice
>>
>>98311681
>i know im not really welcome here but i finished boxnaught and bloodletter
Unless youre some kind of retarded shitposter I fail to see how you're not welcome here
>>
>>98311686
because if it's finished it's no longer wip
>>
>>98311740
I mean people post their finished paintjobs all the time here.
>>
File: IMG_1024.jpg (2.17 MB, 5685x3399)
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finished the unit
>>
>>98311681
Nice dudes
Yeah, this place isn't just for WIPs, but also Ws
>>
>>98311740
finished projects are just as welcome here as wips, only ones pretending otherwise are shitposters
>>
>>98311757
Nice chonky guns
>>
>>98311681

Used to have that dreadnought when I was a kid, brings back fond memories...
Never had the 3rd edition bloodletters, but they were really the best version of the demon that were sculpted by GW.
>>
File: IMG_3719.jpg (821 KB, 2438x1290)
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>>98311555
I retardmaxx and even I wouldn't consider brush priming.
>>
>>98311757
Looking good, anon.
>>
>>98311757
Decals? Script on that leg "paper"?
>>
File: Untitled.jpg (384 KB, 1219x1441)
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>>98311470
I put together a judiciar kitbash and started painting it this weekend

I decided to go for red robes (instead of black as I initially planned) for more visual interest (also, that spanish inquisition look)
Tried to make it very intense and popping without using any orangey reds like I usually do when painting this colour
>>
>>98311555
It's been way too humid outside
to spray prime where I live recently, I said fuck it and tried a few days ago since I have nothing to paint and it came out all fuzzy:( I'm thinking of trying airbrush primer so I can do it inside.
>>
>>98311871
Very nice red, anon. Good job.
>>
>>98311871
Very lovely cloth.
>>
>>98311871
excellent job anon!
>>
File: IMG_20260706_153211.jpg (1.84 MB, 4000x1502)
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These have been really fun to paint.
>>
File: IMG_20260629_083241447.jpg (2.59 MB, 4640x3472)
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I haven't bought a GW kit in years, so I didn't realise how hard they are to re-pose now. It's like they've tried to make conversion as hard as possible. At least I can mess with the arms
>>
>>98312006
Lovely kitbashes, anon.
>It's like they've tried to make conversion as hard as possible
Yes. A lot of it is just inherent to monopose meme, but there are a lot of times when I just think it's deliberately engineered that way.
>>
File: images (2).jpg (8 KB, 225x225)
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What's the best / easiest way to modify model colors to plan for a scheme? I've never used AI shit but am open to it. I want to modify the colors in this photo to give this guy an autumn theme - orange / tan robes, autumn leaves, etc.
>>
Just laying out basecoats on this captain, trying some new undercoats for weathering and metals. Also got some of the vallejo TMM golds to try out! Should be a fun finish to the squad
>>
>>98312013
Would recommend not using AI, just pick a couple of fall colours and paint over the image to get an idea what it'd look like. You've already got colours in mind, so that's perfect.

If that doesn't look good enough for you (it's not meant to look good, just give you a rough idea) and you get caught up in not being able to colour well with a mouse, then port it into krita and mess with the hue slider and tintes layers
>>
>>98312013
I use inkscape to test color schemes.
>>
File: 1783345455793507.jpg (16 KB, 224x224)
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>>98312045 (me)
E.g. picrel, did on my phone real quick
>>
>>98311871
All your pictures of these are very dark, what do they look in relatively bright (so normal) lighting?
>>
>>98312032
I can see your brush strokes and your contrasts have puddled.
Thin your paints and use less paint on the brush.
>>
>>98312045
>installing Krita just to change a hue
Anon, I...
Here, Photoshop in browser: https://www.photopea.com/
>>
File: IMG_4941.jpg (513 KB, 1657x2004)
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2nd repose looking waaay more dynamic but will have to resculpt more of the legs.

Only have 1 Ork Nob hand with an appropriate looking shoota so will need to figure out what to do for the others.
>>
>>98312244
>Ded or alive, yer kummin wif me
>>
>>98312244
Could always just stick shootas to other parts of the armor like a little Predator shoulder turret
>>
There's a dragon/dino skin cloak on one of my Eldar corsairs. I imagine it's an exodite trophy or something.

Anyways, I want to paint this one a bit different so it stands out as actual reptile hide, but I still want it to look cohesive with the rest of the unit. My normal cloaks are purple. Any suggestions?
>>
>>98312339
dark orange maybe
>>
Is just spraying minis with IPA enough to degrease them before applying primer or I need to rub them with some toothbrush or something? Yeah, I know, stupid question but once glued, toothbrush could accidentally break some small parts or details.
>>
>>98312470
Take an old toothbrush, and any detergent you use to dishwash. Gently scrub your minis, there's no need for pressure. Rinse, let dry and paint.
Using IPA is a good idea for larger models, especially ones you've touched a lot. It's usually enough to mist it around, make sure it's proper wet. If you plan on spraying IPA, do it somewhere well ventilated or with a respirator.
>>
Okay brush/wip/ers help a fellow here!

I have at least 6 armies in various scale plus 3 in the making. But I can't do anything with it because I'm too intimidated by the basing process.

What's your most streamlined basing recipe?
>>
File deleted.
>>98311879
>>98311880
>>98311894
Thanks guys, also I just realized I missed a piece of robe under the belt

>>98312153
>what do they look in relatively bright (so normal) lighting?
You mean something like pic rel?
>>
File: IMG_4942.jpg (660 KB, 1846x2602)
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>>98312297
Wanted them to have a vibe closer to Terminators so giving them handheld guns but this is the only bit I could find with an orky stormbolter feel.
>>
File: 20260617_025108r.jpg (1.76 MB, 1960x4032)
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>>98312579
oops fixed the rotation
>>
Why is crackle paste/medium so hard to use?
Why is it so finnicky?
>just use pva first and use the correct thickness and brushstrokes and brand and
>>
File: stirred earth.jpg (24 KB, 474x474)
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>>98312574
Slap a layer of this stuff (or a similar paste) on the base. If you want, you can also add chopped up pieces of sprue onto there as rocks or whatever. Then do a second layer of the paste. You can then paint everything in the color scheme of your choice. With brown, red, orange, and yellow you can recreate a desert landscape. For more texture, mix a bit of dry pigment with one or more of your paints and stipple that onto some of your surfaces.
>>
File: Winter Germans.jpg (212 KB, 1280x960)
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>>98312574
>What's your most streamlined basing recipe?

>Vallejo Earth paste (any brand will do, but vallejo jars are big and cheap, at least here)
>add skulls, little rocks, pipes or whatever you think looks cool (or nothing at all)
>primer at the same time as you prime the miniature
>cheap craftpaint brown, heavily diluted so its kinda a wash
>slop it onto the primed texture of the base
>paint skulls and stuff, if there is any of that
>add tufts or snow paste or both
>done

See pic related as a finished example. They wont win any competitions in the "fancy basing" category, but its fast and good enough for my miniatures in my opinion.
>>
File: Beastmen12.jpg (325 KB, 1259x641)
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>>98312610
And here is another example, with green tufts instead of snow. And a different brown wash to colour the earth.
>>
>>98312574
>pva
>sand
>water diluted pva aka. cereal base
>simple as
>>
>>98311470
>Value Pack edition
Anyone tried Neo Sable yet? I ordered a pack of them, but it's going to be a few days, heard good things.
>>
File: geomancer.jpg (754 KB, 1000x1300)
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>>98312574
The most basic one I sometimes use is
>sand glued with PVA
>watered down paint to color it
>drybrush to brighten it up
>>
>>98312610
What do you dilute your craft paints with, anyhow?
>>
>>98312653
Just water
I just want to make it more runny, so it doesn't cover everything too strongly.
>>
Do you ever paint minis in other scales? I found this mini and I really like it, but the fact that I can't really use an 80mm mini in a game kinda puts me off a bit.

There's a 35mm version but even that's a bit too big for most games.
>>
>>98312574
easiest is PVA/school glue, water, cornstarch, a drop of cheap acrylic paint. mix it in a cup. more water if it's too thick, more pva if it's too runny, more cornstarch if you want a rougher finish. about $5 for all of that and you can base several armies.
>>
>>98312631
is this some chinesium brush thing?
>>
>>98312682
that sounds like a paste
does it leave an even smooth surface or will there really be some texture to it
>>
File: image.jpg (101 KB, 1286x843)
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>>98312574
Get some cork board, and flock. break up some pieces of cork board to make a little rocky ridge that's supposed to look like a foot or two tall to the model, glue that down then cut to fit the circle and then prime.. Paint the face of your little ridge grey and dry brush white over it. Then paint the top of the cork, and the top of the base brown, and then glue flock to both flat elevation areas, paint the back of the cork to match your base rim, Boom, rocky grassland. You can have the ridge be in front of the model with the model standing wholely on the high ground, or have it be behind them and they're on the low ground, whatever, get creative. You could also add railroad balast for piles of eroded gravel or something, or put in some twigs to be dead wood. Adding elevation into your bases like this really takes them to the next level, but this is very quick.
>>
>>98312574
why cut corners? Hobbying is 90% of this thing. Don't take an easy way out, put effort into your models and bases.
>>
>>98312497
Okay. I was just wondering since I noticed how paint on gundam models often chips away along with primer and it could be related with residual grease from fingers drying building phase. Miniatures are often less "touched" before primer application.
>>
>>98312214
I was just using Krita as an example since most people will recognize it. Obviously you can use whatever drawinf tool you like. My point was that you don't need AI for something like that
>>
File: IMG_1724.jpg (443 KB, 2846x2135)
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wasn't a thread up last night
do you guys think green was the correct choice?
what else would look good besides pink?
>>
>>98312680
No
>>
Booba.
>>
>>98312733
>Hobbying is 90% of this thing

Wtf? I have miniatures here which i painted as a teenager, like 20 years ago. They have seen countless of hours on the table, so the "hobby" time for them is like 5%. They are gaming pieces, nothing else.
>>
>>98312745
arigatou, sensei
>>
File: 1755020469571975.jpg (103 KB, 625x626)
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>>98312759
bait
>>
>>98312724
depends on how diluted it is. more water makes it settle more evenly, less makes it hold its shape and easier to sculpt.
>>
>>98312574
>paint base brown. Let dry.
>paint watered down pva glue onto base.
>sprinkle grass flock on.
>let dry.
>done.
It's that simple.
>>
>>98312699
Yeah it's some japanese brand of nylon brushes, they supposedly hold a great tip over tons of use, but I've only seen Japs talking about them on twitter, was wondering if anyone else here has tried them.
>>
>>98312745
Green is a good choice of accent color for purple, especially a bright lime-ish one to further contrast with your dark purple carapace. The fleshy pink you used to highlight the purple isn't doing you any favors, though. A more neutral purple or something magenta-leaning would've been a better pick.
>>
>>98312745
merci docteur
>>
>>98312574
PVA, add sawdust, stick stones or stuff in if needed, dry, paint and drybrush then glue on grass tufts
I think I'll get some of that loose grass too
>>
>>98312772
How is that bait? Why would you spend more time than necessary with basing for some chaff units?
>>
File: all your base.png (1.59 MB, 980x871)
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which way /WIP/ man
everyone loves seeing flock but nobody uses it anymore, everyone agrees paste is easy but only a minority uses it
>>
>>98312930
It's a balance, some people like going deep into every model. Some people like going broad and doing many models. I don't think generalizations work super well.
>>
File: file.png (3.75 MB, 1440x1800)
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>>98312794
the flesh color is meant to be patterns in the chitin, not highlights
it still needs another pass and then a brighter flesh layer
>>
>>98312945
I've never understood why people do little dust things like this, they just constantly flick off, even if you put pva glue under them.
>>
>>98312945
I watched a Sam Lenz video where he uses a bunch of random stuff like scrap metal or bits of broken pottery so I want to start doing more of that.
>>
File: 20260706_125057.jpg (2.32 MB, 3000x3000)
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>>98312945
I use Vallejo mud paste, GW cracked earth, several rocks, and a pinch of flock. Will add grass tufts after it's painted. Maybe patches of melting snow too.
>>
>>98312745
Get in the digester pool Shinji. I think it will depend on the context with the rest of the model, like if that green is echoed elsewhere on the model it could fit. Worst case you can always paint over it later if it doesn't jive.
>>
>>98312930
NTA but I assume it's called out as bait because the two posters are arguing different things. One values hobby time over playing time, the other says that because you will play with it for longer than it took you to paint it, more of the model's existence is spent in the play state rather than the getting painted state. RUn of the mill miscommunication more likely than bait.
>>
File: swampbasetest.jpg (890 KB, 1200x941)
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>>98312945
how about all of the above?
>>
File: 23978.jpg (4.74 MB, 3072x4096)
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Been working on this rat boy. I hope I can refine some rough parts later on.
Feedback is welcome.
>>
>>98313020
Basado. This is the answer. Add some 3d printed plants, too.
>>
>>98312790
oh, pentel. thats like an actual brand. well makes me a lot more curious. report back when you do get them. only packs i see are 0/6/14 which isnt really great for minis
>>
>>98313022
Sick colours dude
>>
File: IMG_1645.jpg (4.62 MB, 5712x3540)
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Working on an endless sea of Orks
>>98311981
I like the color scheme, great work
>>98311575
Neurotyrant all the way
>>98312244
I have 4 nobs from 4th to update, I just got the breaker boyz kill team built and used the bits to make tankbustas with some old boyz. I’m gonna take the spare rokkit bits and glue them onto the Sluggas and call it a day
>>
File: IMG_3727.jpg (962 KB, 2048x1536)
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>You and what army?
*unzips army*
>>
File: file.png (3.84 MB, 1620x2160)
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>>98313009
I use the green on tongues across the army
that being said, this model doesn't have an outstretched tongue
>>
File: IMG_8455.jpg (1.51 MB, 4032x3024)
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Anyone have a perfect color match paint for badger stynylrez grey? Dont care what paint range its from so long as its a perfect match.
>>
>>98313122
Check OP Mega, there's Stahly's swatch that should help.
>>
Has anyone used stencils for airbrushing? I want to airbrush some insignias on banners and vehicles, and masking tape isn't going to cut it.
>>
>>98312574
I print the bases with a grass, concrete or cracked mud texture on them already and then I just drybrush them when the mini is painted .
>>
>>98312680
>There's a 35mm version
Is there? Or is the file just scaled down to that height but has the exact same level and thickness of detail?
That's something you see in almost every single STL that is offered in two scales, it isn't in two scales, it's in two sizes.
>>
File: base.jpg (1.78 MB, 2048x2048)
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>>98312988
Flocking is just old technology, it was "the way you did it" 20 years ago. Now people know about texture pastes and tufts.

>>98312945
This was my first serious try at making a cool base, it was super easy. It really is just about having a collection of materials and putting them down in a way that makes sense naturally. I love crackle pastes, and a mud paste is super great for blending them along their boundaries with other stuff like rocks. Its all about the transitions.

In this base you can see I used a second smaller base to add height. I made little slate rocks by cutting up sprue bits. Stuffing the little flower between the rocks in the back was my favorite addition.
Products used
>huge minis rock paste
>gw agrellan badlands and earth
>sprue, and real rocks
>army painter tufts (they make the best ones ive tried)
>gw skull

And dont be afraid to layer stuff, you can see I put down the crackle paste ontop some of the other stuff by the slates to finish covering.

But if you do use crackle paste, make sure to paint the part below otherwise the black base will peek through, its far more work to paint it after than before.
>>
>>98312006
yeah GW designs have been like that for a while now, probably to stop you from buying third party bits, now I just buy recasts fuck GW
>>
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>>98313268
i like it
this was my serious attempt at making a cool scenic base with water effects and everything and i was really proud of it until someone pointed out how that light pole was right on top or that water pipe
no i cant unsee it
>>
>>98312945
I use vallejo colored pumice because it saves me a step painting it
>>
>>98313309
That’s why inspector carnifex has to take it down, it’s a code violation! It looks really nice anon, the water and sewer piping is an excellent touch of visual interest. And I love the little reed plants.
>>
File: carno-base.jpg (534 KB, 1254x558)
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>>98313268
Since we're posting bases I think this is the most effort I've ever put into one.
>>
>>98313287
>>98312006
Not all of their minis are like that. It usually helps to look at the sprues before you buy something.
>>
>>98313266
It's not offered as an STL. I would just scale it down a bit myself if it were.

looks like a different or adjusted sculpt to me
>>
>>98313382
how about you get the female version and scale it how you like:
https://www.myminifactory.com/object/3d-print-lands-girl-403947
>>
>>98313377
>arguing based on the exception
Ok low IQ paypiggy
>>
>>98313413
>AAAAAAAAAAAALLLLLLLLLLL OF GWWWW BAAAAAAADDDDD

ok retard. Enjoy your rambling, while i point out the fact that there are miniatures that are still kitbash friendly. You can't change the truth.
>>
>>98313412
that does look really nice
>>
>>98312006
Anon, those are good kitbashes and you obviously put some time and effort into them, so please, for the love of all that's holy, remove the mold lines before going any further.

>>98312790
>0/6/14
As far as I can tell, they only make one brush in their entire product line that's suitable for mini painting, and not an optimal size at that. Still, let us know how the 0 is.
>>
>>98313002
Looking good. Do you add the cracking earth on top of the mud? And what colour are you going to paint it into?
>>
>>98313332
>I threw them into an Adequate pipe
>a what?
>I threw the tyranid into an Adequate pipe
>YOU IDIOT!! THAT WAS AN AQUEDUCT PIPE!! IT LEADS STRAIGHT INTO THE HIVE!!
>>
>>98313022
love the heavy metal comic book style. class.
Feedback wise: that huge cap in the cape is detracting from the good paintjob
>>
>>98313309
>Yes the water on this planet is so heavily polluted the Imperium managed to extract power from it. Why do you ask?
It's the grimdark future anon, don't let a sperg ruin it for you.
>>
File: 20260531_131905.jpg (1.94 MB, 2527x3158)
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>>98312945
I use Vallejo pumice.
>>
>>98313423
NTA but you're really stupid
>hmmm aschkchually the fact that a couple minis are kitbash friendly somehow means that the rest are too.
As he pointed out your retarded attempt to argue based on an exception is beyond smoothbrained
>>
File: 23994.jpg (48 KB, 649x670)
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>>98313040
>>98313540
Thanks.
The cape is intentionally with this gap what I gathered from the official site. Quite strange, but I left it as is.
>>
>>98313412
man i love that. how would it print at ~32mm mini?
i dont want to buy it and have it only fail
>>
>>98313412
Her complexion and hair color in those example images is just giving me virtuoso PTSD
I fucking hate that duellist bitch so goddamned much
>>
>>98313732
scaling something presupported scales the supports down too so no problem
>>
>>98313626
Space Marines and Guard are not "exceptions". They are the main lines GW produces. And they are very much kitbash friendly.
>>
>>98313351
Did you use that still water effect paint?
>>
>>98313790
guard are not one of the main lines lmao, they're behind every chaos faction and three xenos ones
>>
>>98313873
That's UV resin and I used GSWs Splash Gel for those foam effects
>>
Do you guys know of better small portable desktop photography lamps?

https://a.co/d/0cxuvHIK
>>
>>98313873
>>98313884
i tried vallejo water effects once and it was really horrible
regular epoxy does everything that expensive stuff does only better
>>
>>98313287
>>98312006
Why do people come up with weird conspiracy shit for why GW changed their minis.

Literally just look at the old MKIV tactical squad kit vs the new one and you can see exactly why they switched from modular posing to what we have now.
>>
>>98313972
NOOO BEING ABLE TO SWAP CHESTS ONTO DIFFERENT REPETITIONS OF SQUATTING WAS SO MUCH BETTER NOOOO
>>
>>98313972
>>98313976

... I really liked the old mkiv kit.
>>
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>>98313972
Thats not evil enough.

>>98313976
Its funny, because nobody would ever claim that Northstar or Wargames Atlantic is kitbash-unfriendly, but allmost all their miniatures are literally torso and legs combined into one piece, with flat joints for the arms. But when GW does it, its a conspiracy to prevent kitbashing.

the difference between the bodies in pic related, in terms of kitbashability, is zero.
>>
>>98313976
I'll squat on your chest, m8
>>
>>98313972
>>98313976
Nigga, look at GW minis. There's a whole host of engineering decisions to make kitbashing as difficult as possible.
>all detailing like purity seals sculpted into the mini, which allows much less customization or more work
>all vehicles having their entry ways closed, so you have to cut into the model if you want to do something with it
>not just monopose, but monopose with build done in a way that you have to re-sculpt everything if you want to change stuff around
>even parts that could have been left modular (arms, hands, often even heads) are done in a way to minimize kitbashing and customization
And somehow, with all this, they managed to make a lot of stuff less detailed. Compare the reloading Tactical Marine vs reloading Primaris. Tactical has rounds in the magazine, Primaris magazine is just flat surface.
I'm not saying it's some grand conspiracy, but there's definitely at least secondary intent. That, or their engineers are getting more and more retarded. Might be both, desu.
>>
>>98313999
>nobody would ever claim that Northstar or Wargames Atlantic is kitbash-unfriendly
gee, I wonder why
>>
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>>98314019
>all detailing like purity seals sculpted into the mini
delusion
>all vehicles having their entry ways closed, so you have to cut into the model if you want to do something with it
wrong
>not just monopose, but monopose with build done in a way that you have to re-sculpt everything if you want to change stuff around
wrong
>even parts that could have been left modular (arms, hands, often even heads) are done in a way to minimize kitbashing and customization
schizophrenia
>Primaris magazine is just flat surface.
retard
>>
>>98314030
>no u
0/10
>they fixed the empty mag in the new ed.
That's good news.
>>
>>98314037
>no u
nobody said that, take your meds
>>
>>98314024
I also wonder why, when their way of fusing torso with legs is something people shit on GW for all the time.

>>not just monopose, but monopose with build done in a way that you have to re-sculpt everything if you want to change stuff around

How is this even remotely true in regards to marines?

>>all detailing like purity seals sculpted into the mini, which allows much less customization or more work
This was the case all the time back then too. Remember the famed Blood Angel tactical kit, or the dark angel upgrade set?
Or the Space Wolves? Or the Black Templars?

>>even parts that could have been left modular (arms, hands, often even heads) are done in a way to minimize kitbashing and customization
How so? Its all interchangable, even with 30k.
>>
>>98314050
>This was the case all the time back then too.
It's never been the case for purity seals on rank and file infantry, the only kit I can even think of with that being a thing are skitarii
old tacticals and modern intercessors both come with 10 purity seals on the sprue for you to splash on models as you please
>>
>>98314024
Well, explain how the Cadian is less kitbash friendly than the Wargames Atlantic bodies, or any similarly sculpted body for Stargrave?
>>
can you faggots take this shit to /40kg/ or something
>>
>>98314041
>u-ur wrong
Same difference. Now go back.

>>98314050
>How is this even remotely true in regards to marines?
Have you ever tried making marine crouch, sit, or just stand normally without the typical W I D E stance?
>This was the case all the time back then too
Not really. Which you can see with Tactical Marines even today.
>Remember the famed Blood Angel tactical kit, or the dark angel upgrade set?
Or the Space Wolves? Or the Black Templars?
These are specialized kits, it's obvious these will be decked with specific insignia. Hell, you buy them for that purpose.
>How so? Its all interchangable, even with 30k.
With a lot of cutting and re-sculpting, yes. But again, new models have often both hands fused to the weapons, for example.
>>
>>98314050

It's because the sprues offer a ton of extra bits, don't require instructions and are cross-compatible with other plastic kits from the same range. For me, assembling north star kits has been more pleasant than working with modern GW kits. This doesn't mean that they were a pain in the ass to work with, but that they required a bit more effort from me. Worst GW kit for me were the morghasts.
>>
>>98314079
>Have you ever tried making marine crouch, sit, or just stand normally without the typical W I D E stance?
you couldn't do this without resculpting on the old models unless you bought the one kit that had a single kneeling pose leg option
>With a lot of cutting and re-sculpting, yes.
you've never touched any model in the last 15 years then
>>
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>>98314057
Well, if its not the case on modern intercessors, what is the issue then?

Besides, if you look closely to some of the legs on this pic, you can see the purity seals sculpted on them.
A front pic would be better, but for some reason all sites show this sprue from the back, but its visible.
>>
>>98314064
I responded to the WGA/Northstar part, hence my greentext. I don't know about Cadian sprues, never seen one even on pictures.
Anon explains why they people wouldn't call WGA/NS kitbash-unfriendly >>98314085
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>>98314085
And how is it different from pic related?
Sure, with GW, you have to glue the body together from 3-4 different parts. I could do without that happily, but in case of the blooded set here, it allows for different chest armor styles, which is something Northstar does not provide.
GW spreads the bits out on 3 sprues, for 10 dudes, while Northstar has 6, and all bits on one sprue. But option wise, the GW set is completely on par with what Northstar has to offer with Stargrave Mercenaries for example.
In fact, both sets are even compatible with each other.
>>
>>98314079
>These are specialized kits
They are literally TROOP sets Anon, decked in with details.
>>
>>98314131

Based on my experience, GW kits are stricter about which hands fit which torsos etc. When I'm clipping the pieces off the sprue I'm impressed by the technical level of these sprues. I remember how sparse they were in the late nineties.
>>
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>some tanna sir
>thank you jurgen
>>
>>98313935
Guys, any help?
>>
Fascinating stuff, however consider the following:
Kill yourselves.
>>
>>98313944
>>98313884
Noted
>>
>>98314170
legitimately just get a ringlight or similar, they come with a cellphone mount too so you'll be set.

most lighting options that aren't strobes are more than enough for this sorta stuff. If you want smaller, look at light cubes or the ttartisan film lights, and if you want higher quality, legit just get a lightbox with a built in set of strips.
>>
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>>98314154
>>
>>98313128
I should have specified that its a primer not a regular paint. So none of those paint charts have it. Was hoping another anon who uses it might know.
>>
I'm working on painting some warhams (Deathwatch specificlally), and I've gotten maybe 10ish models deep and I have the feeling I just... can do better. My models are perfectly serviceable, but it's all vague sponge highlighting and blending, where I feel I could try and push myself to do something more like NMM for the armor.

I've watched both the Darren Latham videos in the pastebin and some Erik Swinson videos on youtube, and they're more or less what I want to do. But my big hangup is, those guys are professional-level painters, and almost instinctively know where to place highlights, and a lot of the other tutorials out there all say "oh, just imagine these shapes are other shapes instead", which really doesn't help.

I don't know, am I retarded? yes It all just feels very, "now draw the rest of the owl", while no one I've found really goes into detail about light placement before diving into the blending and glazing to make NMM work.
>>
>>98314673
specular highlights are very simple once you get into it. there are three shapes in nature - sphere, cylinder, cube - and learning how to place a highlight on each is <5 minutes of education. then for a model you decide where you light is and every decision after that is made for you.

maybe don't start with non-metallic metal specifically, just try to add more contrast over time (it's the same thing just without counter reflections).
>>
>>98314673
>place your mini under a lamp at an angle you want your simulated light source to be
>take a couple pictures
>crank up the contrast in photoshop or whatever
>use them as reference for your shadows and highlights.
Also I wouldn't recommend trying NMM if you're still trying to understand how light works. That shit is difficult to pull off, maybe start by doing some volumetric highlights.
>>
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>>98314673
>while no one I've found really goes into detail about light placement
Consider the following:
>Put your mini on a table
>Use your lamp at maximum setting to shine on it roughly from the angle you want your mini to be lit from
>Take a photo
>Open photo in editor of your choice. Photoshop is the best choice. Photopea in browser.
>Desaturate/turn grayscale
>Up the contrast to maximum
>Posterize or similar
>Now you know where to put your light
>???
>Profit

Made you picrel. It even shows gradients if you set the levels in Posterize (~4) right.
>>
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the flesh tone definitely melds more with the rest of the model
almost like it's because I used colors that I've already used...
>>
>>98314752
>Photoshop is the best choice. Photopea in browser.

For that purpose he can use just Gimp. Or Darktable, which is also open source.
>>
>>98314804
There's virtually no rational reason to use Gimp. If you have a browser, use Photopea. If you don't mind installing, pirate Photoshop.
>>
>>98312945
Flock over PVA. To me, the base is something to keep the mini upright on the table and represent its footprint in game. I'm not trying to get a Golden Demon with my basing, I merely want something quick, easy, and less visually jarring than bare plastic or resin. Depending on the game, I might not even do that. I thought that transparent bases were stupid until I saw them used in Battletech, and then I became a believer.
>why yes, I am a grog, how can you tell?

>>98312988
30 years ago, I would have said to lay another coat of watered down PVA over the top, and that does work. These days, I clearcoat with floor wax and it would just be an extra step so I don't bother. Either way you're not losing bits of flock (or static grass, or those little grass bunches, or whatever else you glued to the base).

Back in the bad old days of oil enamels, some folks wouldn't even bother with PVA first. They'd just paint the top of the base and hit it with the flock while it was still wet, then do another coat of PVA over the top. I've never tried it with acrylics but I suspect that they'd dry too fast.
>>
>>98314812
Gimp's fine
>>
>>98314801
You could also have the green return in other places on the model.
>>
>>98314801
I like the fleshy color.
>>
>>98314801
I like the green, personally. Looks more interesting and unique than the flesh tones.
>>98313571
Looks great, I particularly like the red cloth.
>>98313309
I love how you did the carapace on this guy, it has an almost comic-like feel to it.
>>98313022
The colors on the blade and armor are so vibrant, he looks fantastic.
>>98311981
I dig the different greens you've used for these guys.
>>98311871
Now that's one great looking red cloth!
>>98311765
I love how goofy these guys look.
>>
>>98313480
Danke, Aye, applied the cracked paste right on top of the mud. Thinking most of the base with be brown earth and the cracked areas will be grey. It's meant to be chaos corruption for a fantasy army. Northern Wastes is what I had in mind.
>>
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working on an Ushabti
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>>98312574
the secret is that you don't actually have to do anything to bases except glue your miniature to them. anyone telling you that it's mandatory is either trying to sell you basing shit or doing the cycle of abuse thing where they were told they had to do it so you have to too. they will tell you your model isn't complete without the base, but you can just ignore them. it's not their miniature.
>>
How the fuck do I highlight gold / silver properly? I'm doing Leadbelcher > Nuln Oil > Stormhost Silver and Ret Armor > Reikland Fleshshade > Lib gold and i can barely make out the highlights.

Do I need to do multiple passes of the wash? Do a different highlight color?
>>
>>98313143
yes you can use this
https://uscutter.com/Avery-Dennison-SF100-Paint-Mask/
but you will need a way to cut it into the shapes you want.
>>
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>>98315065
Can't really help you that much with silver but a good way to make gold pop is using a platinum color like Canoptek Alloy for your highlights and focusing them on upward facing edges.
>>
>>98315065
my advice is to never put silver straight on top of any shade or oil it because will look like ass and ruin everything
>>
>>98314650
why do you need to color match something that's getting painted over?
>>
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Went with a dark age sort of style here. Gonna sculpt some straps from where he is holding his scabbard to his belt, kind of like a guarded stance, just drew the sword, cautiously advancing
>>
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witch and her discount knight
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I have base coated the Heldrake armor.
Tomorrow I begin the trim.
>>
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Finished my command squad.
>>
>>98315724
Have you tried acrylic markers for the trim? I haven't tried them yet myself
>>
>>98315724
Why is it a meme that this model is so much of a pain to paint?
>>
>>98312756
Looks nice, anon. I have the same model awaiting a paint job. Pewter? People forget how good and crisp the detail is on Dark Haven Legends when they're the metal version, Reaper really let themselves down when the exact same minis released in Bones IMO.
>>
>>98315812
what's they're chapter name?
I'm assuming they're WS successors?
>>
>>98315997
their*
>>
>>98315834
Because of the "trim is different to paint" meme
>>
>>98315834
Because there's 90 feet of trim to paint on it, it's tedious
>>
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I think Death Guard Downie is my favourite.
>>
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Did a quick test model for some Daemonettes. I'll patch the gaps later when the glue is dry. May print the next ones a bit smaller.
>>
>>98315135
I like the color, and Its handy to have the base color for in case you make a mistake.
>>
>the year is 2020+6
>no daemonette sculpt comes even close to Juan Diaz ones
unreal
>>
Looking to base some dudes. Does baking soda work with PVA as good as it does with super glue?
>>
I still think it's funny that this thread complains about craft paint but loves craft glue. the henkel catalogue is like an inch thick but you niggas are using elmer's for everything.
>>
>>98316257
Who is using Elmer's?
>>
imagine using superglue for basing and trying to strip that shit someday
im not made of bases, well after 3d printing i am but you know what i mean
>>
>>98316257
me when I make shit up
>>
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>>98315997
Immortals. Yeah ws successors, they favour power fists and melta weaponry. They get stuck in quick and destroy their foes to leave no trace.
>>
>>98316295
don't lie I see people in almost every thread talking about using craft glue for everything from bases to making terrain.
>>
>>98316355
thats not true i mostly use wood glue because its even cheaper
>>
>>98314950
Looks awesome, especially the gold
>>
>>98316257
Elmers is low toxicity, no fumes, pretty fucking based.
>>
>glueschizo
>>
>>98315065
GW metallics are trash so you definitely need to be doing more coats. base > wash >base colour again avoiding recesses > another coat with even less coverage > mix of highlight and base > highlight > edge highlight. go slow and let layers fully dry between passes. hopefully will get a nice shine where you want it.
>>
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Reposting my wip colour scheme experiment for feedback. Got a bunch of my old chaos guys finally getting glued, painted, and soon on the table, feels good. I think I want greener gems/lenses though
>>
>>98316607
>color scheme
>color
it's just gray but loooks cool
>>
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>low toxicity, no fumes
>>
>>98314819
>I've never tried it with acrylics but I suspect that they'd dry too fast.
I don't think it works for acrylics, but it definitely works for slow-drying texture pastes. I found out the hard way the other day when I tried to flock parts of a base which had not-fully-dry texture paste on it.
>>
>>98316355
>everything from bases to making terrain
Those are the 2 use cases for pva, yes.
>>
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>>98316649
the fumes are the best part honestly
>>
>>98316128
Source of the tiddy lady? Still looking for good naked female conversion material.
>>
>>98316257
You post this garbage semi-regularly. Go shitpost back to /40kg/ with other subhumans.
>>
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eight dollar skellingtons with an eight dollar paint job
i don't know why i bought these
>>
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>>98316753
It must have been your inner skeleton, yearning for its own people. Here are a few more, still slow wip
>>
>>98316753
Skeletons are fun and relatively easy to paint. It's that simple.
>>
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Finished my Emperors champion, very happy with how this turned out probably being my best model yet.
>>
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>>98316953
Old EC from December 2024 for comparison
>>
>>98316953
Looks nice anon. The sketchy style works.
>>
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Cheeky board in a picture frame
>>
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About to paint this big bastard to break up the batch painting.
>>
>>98316128
Know of any good bloodletter sculpts , maybe from the same creator as those daemonettes?
Also where's the far right chaos warrior from? Looks great.
>>
>>98317191
Also on an off topic note, I just got a mental boner imagining the giant axe ending the life of some noble space marine.
>>
>>98317178
neat
>>
>>98317178
i like this
is it for a game or just decoration?
>>
>>98317191
Is there any noticeable difference between mecha primer and their regular primer?
>>
>>98317262
All airbrush primers are thin, all rattlecans are thick, that's as deep as my brain comprehends as I paint.
>>
>>98317262
Mecha paint in general is super smooth and it's said it's more durable to allow for the articulated models to actually move without grinding paint off.
>>
luv me salvaged models. The advantage of simple pva sand basing is that it just scrapes right off after a little soak.
has anyone used fine point markers for cloth patterns? I don't wanna just have flat colors for my ashigaru but the idea of fucking up with a brush and having to restart haunts me.
Probably better to just stick with simple stripes and straight lines
>>
>>98317209
>>98317231
Thanks, it‘s for RPGs and maybe Greathelm. When it’s finished I can just hang it on the wall.
>>
thinking about painting space hulk

should I put the models on bases or nah?
>>
>>98315848
It's metal. I only buy reaper if I can get it in metal, I've tried their other shit and it sucks ass.
>>
Will it look weird if I do all my infantry units with TMM but my heros as NMM?
>>
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Almost done with this guy, just have to do the gauntlet, some shading in various spots, and the base.
>>
>>98317364
I haven't decided yet for mine either. I don't play 40k so it's less of an issue for me but I kinda feel like a square that fits the game board would make sense
>>
>>98317781
This is only one of the reasons that square bases are objectively superior to round bases.
>>
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Painted this girl last night.
>>
>>98317923
hot glued already? you work fast anon
>>
>>98317923
Thin your paints before I demolish you.
>>
>>98317892
enlighten the class, if you please
>>
>>98317923
yep, this one's going into my thin your paints compilation
>>
>>98316692
>>98317199
She's a Children of Onslaught from Creature Caster. They make Bloodletters of the same name. The warrior is from Lost Kingdom Miniatures.
>>
>>98317943
more space for posing than on a same width round, no confusion about miniature facing regardless of posing, ease of identifying prone/stun/dead minis (a round base mini laid on it's side usually likes rolling to a balanced position rather than the position you would want)
>>
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Gaps all sculpted in.

Some clean up to do then ready to paint this badboi up.
>>
>>98318131
Oh, I thought he was supposed to be an example of Ork gestalt magik by his capacity to live and fight while his arms and legs weren't actually connected to his body because the "augmetics" made him and other Orks believe he was in fighting shape, so he was.
>>
>>98315696
It's Ralsei!
>>
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I decided to do something different for this particular sword, being quite unique etc, and tried my hand at a molten effect. Does this sell the look?
I think layering fluo paints too much created some weird texture here and there

>>98314892
Thanks kind anime poster

>>98316953
>>98316959
Definitely improved, good job
>>
>>98317931
>>98318005
I swear I did thin my paints, though I guess not enough.
>>
>>98318482
bro thinned his paints with paints LMAO
>>
>>98318482
get a feel for how thin paint needs to be by testing a stroke on the back of your hand, you should be able to clearly see the texture of your skin through the paint if it's thinned properly
>>
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coming back to the hobby after 20 year or so hiatus.
as a warmup i decided to do minis from a cthulhu board game.
almost finished with the (26) cultists. only their little amulets, cleanup and bases left. i was planning on using a pale gold but now im not sure if i should just reuse the green used on trims. also im not sure what colour to paint the bases.
>>
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>>98318318
im so sorry anon.
the pink was just a base layer to make the yellow
>>
>>98318753
trim on the sleeves would look nice as the green. you can always paint on green, one gold, then compare while looking.
bases should be classic bright green
>>
>>98316953
Interesting style with all the hatching. Great work
>>
>>98318482
Watch: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sBDVPoNXyVI
Best video on the topic.
>>
>>98317351
>has anyone used fine point markers for cloth patterns
Microns work well for this. They're waterproof too so you can go back over your lines with an acrylic wash if needed
>>
>>98318131
how is he going to use his shoota when there's no holes for the dakka to come out of?
>>
>>98318366
It looks like a sword fresh out of the forge, good job. I'd maybe add a bit of white to the edge where it's hottest that dulls out along the length to sell that it's sharp and not just a hunk of metal
>>
>>98318827
the hottest part is clearly the engraving
>>
>>98318753
Pale or old gold would be some nice contrast imo
>>
>>98318834
Yeah but the thinner edge of the sword would also heat up faster than the thicker body so it should look brighter
>>
>>98318838
The thinner edge would cool faster than the thicker body, so it should be darker.
>>
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>>98316607
Form the photo in thumbnail mode you can see the main problem: there is almost no difference between main panels, trims and metallics. It's mostly desaturated and grey. That is the impression it will give on the tabletop.
What effect do you want to achieve? Bone, trimmed in dark steel? Do you have a reference or general idea? Are you using normal metallics or a grey contrast? Did you dry brush the trims with the dust color of the armour?
>dark wash on the trims would help differentiate them
>brown wash in the panel edges can give it more saturation
>>
>>98317178
It is the very best. I need to get into it.

>>98317351
Clash of Katana ?

>>98318366
Your sword is cool af anon.

>>98313020
Is it moss or something? Never seen one looking so real so far.
>>
>>98318806
I'll give em a go, and see what happens. They come in random color packs as well for extra fun. Might as well try something new with each batch of minis
>>
my can of krylon primer ran out because I used it on a furniture project

now that I dont have it anymore, what should I buy to prime my minis? No airbrush
>>
>>98319423
another can of primer
like why is this even a question?
>>
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>>98319423
What colour? Ace Hardware's light gray primer is great if you want to make black models like Death Company.
>>
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>But if a mon-keigh tries to join the discussion, I say, "no."
>>
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also ZAMN!
>>
Sculpting with greenstuff is either very hard or I suck mad ass
>>
>>98319509
it's just annoying unless you have the tools for it and are well practiced
also be sure to mix in milliput so it's a bit easier to work with
>>
>>98319509
It's difficult to work with. I strongly recommend you give Milliput a try. Longer working time, it's not rubbery, and you can feather, smooth, and sand it easily whereas greenstuff tends to get shredded by files.

I also recommend silicone tip sculpting tools and not the metal tools.
>>
>>98319423
Save the lid as a painting handle.
It might work for you with some sticky tack.
>>
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Lord of skulls bits arrived >:)


>>98319509
It's hard, keep practising or get tamiya yellow putty, it's nicer.
>>
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>>98314950
A bit more progress.
>>98316380
That was just a basecoat, lighting did most of the work
>>
>>98319156
Thank you for your feedback!

>What effect do you want to achieve?
I wanted to achieve a dusty stone or light sand coloured armour panelling with non-metallic black trims (metals for mechanisms on the backpack or other ornaments though).
>do you have a reference or general idea?
No specific reference but I thought it would be cool to try for a lighter chaos scheme since I usually paint the same old red & black (years ago I painted some as word bearers, currently I have Dark Angels painted as Fallen). That got me thinking about what might look cool: white bionicles, ww2 german tank dunkelgelb, etc. This was basically an experiment with what paints I have to hand to get a recipe that didn't take too long that was roughly in that direction. I wanted to have grounded colour choices and a weathered appearance. I also didn't want to spend time painting every detail individually, which I hoped the combination of color choices & drybrushing would absolve me from.
>Did you dry brush the trims with the dust color of the armour?
Yes, as per the speedpaint goal. That was after everything got agrax'd too.

I think I will try darker greys for the trim and lighter colours for the panels since the uniform wash/drybrush pulls everything together. I don't want to give up on the desaturated look entirely but I think you're right and I'll try boosting value contrast.
>>
>>98318366
How did you do the sword cause thats cool as fuck.
>>
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Weekly paint group progress
All the best, folks. Keep on keeping on.
>>
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>>98319872
Damn, wrong pic
>>
>>98319876
nice
>>
>>98319872
>>98319876
Not bad anon but I can't help but see how much better they'd look with proper bases.
>>
What are the best sources of Dark Angels bits? Grey Tide studio is decent but a lot of the pieces take it a bit too far I think.
>>
>>98319741
not too shabti
>>
>>98320001
I find that 90% of 3d prints fail to fit into the 40k line aesthetics, they usually tend to go over the line or just have bad designs.
>>
Got my Custodian Terminators sub-assembled. I'll probably prime them tomorrow.

That's an easy combat patrol to make. I just have to decide what base to give them. What color bases work well with the Golden boys? I don't usually do anything too fancy, just some small aquarium pebbles or cut up cork for rocks and some colored texture paste. I've got an assortment of tufts as well. Is there anything you guys have seen that looks good and isn't very intricate.
>>
>>98319865
NTA, but it looks like a red/orange gradient with grey+black sponged/stippled around the edges and the recessed text on the blade lined in yellow.
Not the hardest techniques ever, but that anon's execution is perfect.
>>
>>98318824
There's holes in the side of the barrel Anon, get creative
>>
>>98319509
It's hard if you don't know what you're doing and try to sculpt too much at once.

Build things up in a lot of different layers starting with the most basic shapes and it gets easier.
>>
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Took the Daemonette into Blender today. Modified the proportions and attached the claws before printing so I don't have to saw and glue them on each time like I had to do with the prototype on the left. Lots of layer lines because I wanted to get in printed fast and see it in person. Gonna reprint at a quality layer height tomorrow, sculpt some tentacles, and hopefully paint one this weekend.
>>
>>98320432
the one on the right has an awkward stretched looking face and the tits look a bit weird
>>
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>KA-CHUNK
>>
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pretty happy with it
played around with letting the glaze pool and wicking away the excess to get quick veins
>>
When you paint Chaos Space Marines, do you paint the trim first or the power armour? Is all the trim punishment for committing heresy?
>>
>>98320637
Looks sick
>>
>>98320793
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ej_DTLtil2I
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nVeqr_4Gb7w
I will post this every time someone asks about painting trim until maybe someone finally finds it useful
>>
>>98320809
Interesting, thanks!
>>
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Just finished these today. Tear me apart. Sorry for the poor picture quality.
>>
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Latest kitbash.

>>98319860
>Black trims
Because of the final drybrush, the trims end up looking grey, not black (very obvious on the vambrace).
You definitely need another pass with black wash/contrast.
Or a final pass of Incubi Darkness (resulting in black-blue trims), if you keep the light blue for lenses (instead of going for green).
>>
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Kudos to all of the people who can smoothly blend colours.
I had such a hard time trying to do it on the belly and it still looks like crap.
>>
>>98319991
Thanks
We'll get there in time, I think. Folks like to try new things on their models in small increments, but everyone who has been painting with us for a while has improved so much
>>
>>98320105
you just wanted to make that joke, didn't you
>>
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First intercessor squad of the new scheme near finished, some cleanup to go as well as defining the guns better. Also going to bring down the contrast on the tufts and casings.
>>
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Not happy with the scabbard, but otherwise glad I pushed myself a bit with this model. Sword felt better than the last one I did, and tilting shield was a highlight of the process

>>98321512
Looking really good anon! Love the weathering effects, and the new scheme works really well
>>
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>>98321226
you could try a thin glaze of the green to to over the border of that orange a bit more, and use small splotches and stippling to feather it out more. Maybe also lighten up the belly color at the border just to add more value change.
>>
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>>98308130
Spoke too soon, couldn't finish the bases last week.
>>
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>>98318827
>>98319193
>>98319865
Thanks, also this anon is right about the recipe >>98320247 although my execution was far from perfect
I also use a white oil wash on the text at the start during the first orange glazes, and again at the end, to make the fluo paints do their job

I tried to improve it a bit on the front side; also wip of my judiciar I guess

>>98321512
I think the other, yellower gold worked better with the purple, but they look great nonetheless, good job

>>98321630
Props for freehanding that heraldry
I think one issue with the scabbard is how it has a similar colour to the greaves and the metal fittings, so all that part gets a bit lost.

>>98321698
they cute
>>
>>98321831
Thanks man, it was fun to paint the heraldry, this is like my 12th model after a 15 year break so I'm trying to push myself with each one. The colour of the scabbard def doesn't help, but I also caked the white like an idiot, I don't know why I didn't just take my time with it.

Your black templar is look so good though, I might have to steal the look of that magma, maybe with different colours. Love your control of shadow and tone by the way
>>
>>98321204
Drakenhof Nightshade is the dark blue wash. My bad.
>>
Anyone have trouble building up layers with GW shades? Sometimes I try to really darken an area with something like Carroburg Crimson and use many layers to do it. Sometimes the dampness of the brush removes the wash from areas and exposes the paint underneath. I'm wondering if I should start glazing with paint instead? Maybe it will stick better.
>>
>>98322000
you didnt let it fully dry
>>
>>98322007
Ah, easy fix. Thank you.
>>
>>98320873
>Tear me apart
your lack of self confidence shows and trying to preempt an insult just exaggerates it. Go through life with more joy and pride.
>>
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Finished this guy today. I kinda made the bright parts too big on the eyes so they look more like Anime eyes and less like helmet lenses but it's still fine.
>>
>>98322069
The yellow is lovely but I think you could've went darker on cloaks shadows
>>
>>98320637
Ded sexy!

>has plastic organizer shelf in the background with metal Space Marine Veteran in it
How did you take your picture in my hobby room, anon?
>>
>>98320637
>>98322463
these anons know the feeling when they have guests or some company over and have to explain this is my hobby room
when actually its the living room where we spent 99% of our time in
>>
>>98322463
man I really need to organize and label my bits shelves
currently I have to pull out every drawer looking for parts only to remember that I used that specific thing on some conversion I scrapped months ago
>>
>>98322515
>having guests
>ever
lol
lmao
>>
>>98322515
>when actually its the living room
putting a couch in here isn't actually a bad idea
>>
>>98322521
ntab but I got a gf not too long ago and I had to hide all the weeb shit that was on display because I was scared she's going to turn tail the moment she sees shelves full of half naked anime girls. Thank god she doesn't mind the hobby stuff
>>
>>98322584
>sonicofag
>fucked a landwhale
it's like pottery
>>
>>98322584
The only thing sad about that guys room is the fact that he brought a 200+ pound whale to it to bang.
>>
>>98322584
It's incredible how disgusting both of them are.
>>
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>>98322590
you really can't make this shit up
>>
>>98322584
he's based for living the dream, she's cringe for thinking she's somehow above it
>>
>>98322558
you're a huge fucking pussy
>>
>>98322558
>building your relationship on a fake persona
Big brain moment. I'm sure you'll enjoy that game of pretense for the rest of your life.
>>
>>98322516
>organize and label my bits shelves
It made a huge difference. Even when you're in there frequently, it all starts to look alike after a while.
>>
I leave my bits on the sprue
>>
>>98321931
>this is like my 12th model after a 15 year break so I'm trying to push myself with each one
Well done, it's all practice after all. Also thank you.
As you pointed out yourself, painting whites is all about patience. The first thin coat will look streaked and awful, but you must resist the temptation of immediately adding another one or go thicker to get that white coverage.

If you're going over black, there are off whites or light greys/browns/blues that have good coverage and you can use as a base for the white, also layering white over those will give you some sort of built in shading already'

>>98322069
Nice yellow, good job
>>
>>98322515
im just confused who you're explaining it to. how many normies are in your house? i work in the toy industry so i get i hang with a semi knowing crowd, but even the sales guy who watches the nhl draft knows what warhammer is.
>>
>>98322706
Kinds of have to now that they're numbered.
>>
what do i do about incredibly dry room
paint dries on brush in 2 minutes, every 4 or so i have to rehydrate the paint on the wet palette.
>>
>>98322828
Buy a humidifier, not even kidding.
>>
>>98322584
So why does he need 6 keyboards?
>>
>>98322748
>even the sales guy who watches the nhl draft knows what warhammer is.
It was a question on Jeopardy, but stumped all three contestants, including the champ.

At least we have Henry Cavill.
>>
>>98322584
Damn that’s a huge bitch
>>
>>98322584
That’s exactly the type of fatty that beer makes you think is fuckable
>>
>>98322069
Still looking gay
>>
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>>98322929
>>
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HASHUT
>>
>>98322849
shocking none of them got it ken would have
theres a reason warhammer is changing everything to be called warhammer. the 40k is less known.

>>98323026
love these dirty dwarves. the banner looks great
>>
Even glasses cannot help me anymore with noticing all those tiny details on Infinity minis. I'm honestly afraid that I might reach the end of my painting activity and it pains me greatly since I was not even getting good yet. Just wanted to tell someone.
>>
>>98323078
Have you tried a magnifying glass or jewelers lenses?
>>
>>98323078
Paint bigger models. Gunpla's always an option, and companies like Kotobukiya make larger models of other stuff if robots aren't your thing.
>>
>>98323078
Evenly distributed lighting helps a lot, plus there's always those magnifier headsets. We're all dorks here, might as well embrace it
>>
>>98323102
>>98323092
Tried that magnifying lenses you wear on headband, my head and eyes started to hurt after 15+ minutes of use, sadly.

>>98323099
Maybe I should. I mean, I am painting gundams and such aside from minis but those are mainly airbrush stuff.

And there is also this annoying moment when I apply some colors, check reference images and find out that I should apply them differently.
>>
>>98323078
I have perfect eyesight, but I never paint without my magnifier, it makes all the difference.
>>
>>98323122
>Tried that magnifying lenses you wear on headband
Try a standing one? I don't like heavy things on my head either.
>>
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slow daily progress.
>>
>>98323127
i was about to buy a new desk light
better to get one with a magnifier and a ring light on it?
>>
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His wings were easy and kinda fun.
Body has been tedious
>>
>>98323279
paintjob looks pretty good, but you picked THE worst possible background, anon.
>>
>>98323290
Reminds me of the 80's carpet from big hotels like the Sheraton in Downtown Dallas.
>>
>>98322656
You have a jar of thumbs? Same.
>>
>>98323077
>dirty dwarves
theyre chorfs you nigger
>>
>>98321512
>>98321831
Looks freaking great
>>98321698
Excellent
>>
>>98323207
Looking goof. Confident stance
>>
>>98323346
Good*
>>
>chorf
there is no o in dwarf howeverbeit
it should be chwarf
>>
>>98323334
It was a Secret Santa gift from a few years ago.
>>
>>98323366
Chaorf
>>
>>98323379
>For Maccringle!
>>
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>>98323227
Personally I don't like round magnifiers because they distort what you're looking at. I've found this style to be lightweight and reasonably comfortable
>>
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Okay, base colours done today, fixes and washes tomorrow. I honestly don't know how people can paint without washes, mine always looks like shit without them and the depth they give.
>>
>>98323594
Your bases are too high. It's ridiculous.
>>
>>98323635
...I cannot be the only one that paints bases and minis separately.
>>
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Finished this little board today.
>>
>>98323702
Really impressive, anon. Looks almost like real life stuff.
>>
>>98323227
I got one with a separate magnifier and light on two arms, so I dunno if a combi is nice to use. Other anon is right, there is some distortion outside the center of the lens, but it hasn't bothered me yet, 'cause I hold what I'm painting in the center. Still, it's a valid argument to keep in mind.
>>
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When it comes to painting minis, what are the thought processes behind doing things like applying a wash or edge high lighting? I understand that they are techniques that can be done and most people do them but I want to understand what / when and why you would apply a wash or edge highlight. For example, I have done minimal washing and edge highlighting on this model. I was doing it mostly because its what most people do. However, I never understand why. That is what I am really after. So for you, do you highlight EVERY edge? Do you wash every crevice? etc.
>>
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trying to finish this lion i started two years ago, going nicely i think
>>
>>98323903
>what are the thought processes behind doing things like applying a wash or edge high lighting
Making details more pronounced, that's literally it.
>>
>>98323917
I see. so does that entail doing it to every edge or every crevice on a model or it just depends?
>>
>>98323933
It depends on what you're going for, I guess? Highlighting everything gives this really crisp look with all details popping nicely. If you want it to look more "realistic" you can focus your highlights on upward facing edges, it will look more natural and also add some depth
>>
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more ruins, i'm now planning to recast some when i have a bunch made, never done that so let's see how that goes
>>
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Give me your recipes for daemon engine flesh cause I'm never happy with how mine turn out
>>
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>>98324211
I do desaturated purples for mine and I like the result, would probably work with your blue as well. Paints used are TTC: Incubus Purple shaded with a purple wash, then layered and highlighted with Enticing Purple and Decadent Purple. Also nice Heldrake, I need to get one at some point, the model is really cool.
>>
>>98323990
Those look amazing, also tasty marshmallow
>>
>>98323911
Beautiful purples
>>
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Finally got around to starting another ghoul. Can’t decide if I should give him a purple glaze like the first one or leave him his own color. Also always struggle with what to do about the weird little back hair tufts.
>>
>>98323903
Painting process is hard to explain because it's super flexible. You look at the model and as the artist decide what to do and when. For example if you notice an edge you want to emphasize you might highlight it but maybe not yet because around that area is other stuff you want to spray paint or wash darker and light colors arevaffected by mistakes more than dark ones so maybe you hold off for a while but keep it in your mind for later. Instead you maybe do the chains first because you can put black on, silver highlights, maybe a rusty wash, few more highlights, now it's time to do that edge you wanted to do before. There's this thing in art where you can't tell what color, how light or dark, or anything until the area around it has some color or shading too, because you have nothing to compare it to, so our process stays flexible, we do a little all over, then one area a little bit more, then another, get an idea try that, on no, no good, fix it, or maybe if i slso do this in another place that will fix it etc. Now why would we do washes? Mostly so we can see. If primed white you can't see shit, same with black. But if white model is washed now i can see the details, or if black after dry brushing with gray or a light green i can see the edges, so our process isn't always for artistic reasons but rather for practical to aid our eyes and make the rest of process easier. If a red is too intense we might wash in black or greenish brown even better to add shadows and dull the red down, but then add yellow to brown to make an edging color, but it will be so strong we use sparingly only where the light would hit, the other highlight areas we would just use the same red again reestablishing that primary color that the brown dulled down, because that's enough there. If the shadows aren't dark enough in one area we wanr the texture to be stronger like maybe fur or chain we might take that same red and add a dark purple or black to and use that as a wash there,
>>
>>98324350
So essentially we decide the process organically asking ourselves many questions, will this help or hurt? Will this be easier or that, is this worth the effort? Am i improving the model or is this hoeflation? Is the juice worrh the squeeze? The law of diminishing returns says working an extra hour helps a lot, extra 3 not as much, extra 12, not worth it, barely any change at all, so yeah we try to improve the model as much as possible initially, then a little bit, then a little more, wait for a while and touch it up, that's good enough, but now we can move on to something else, varnish tomorrow, might notice something we can fix before then, fresh eyes always better, that's the process, it's not do this thing exactly when, it's what can i do now to improve the piece with the time i have and the tools available, like i have varnish but not ready for that, but i have some tan paint, maybe i can dry brush that fur, it'll dry right away, yeah, tomorrow I can varnish the fur then do the legs again, make them tan to match etc
>>
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And here's the squad

>>98322731
Thanks man, I'll make sure I do better on my next model. Starting the Lion now that these guys are done
>>
>>98324243 >>98324211
Freaking awesome
>>
>>98323078
Plenty of scale aircraft and armour
>>
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im just doing anything
>>
>>98324770
Absolute soul. Hope you paint that green like a neon cactus.
>>
Just primed up the Custode Terminators. Hopefully I'll finish painting them by friday.
>>
>>98323903
a wash helps pick out details that aren't to scale. for example a crevice that's an inch deep on a 6' person would be .015" deep on a fully to scale 28mm figure, but on the actual plastic model it's probably not even half that. edge highlighting is a stupid meme that people blindly use without understanding, but it's basically like outlines on a cartoon.
>>
>>98324770
reminder that james wokestein will pretend that his prepainted terrain is the future, we must RETVRN to toothpick cacti SOVL
>>
>>98322849
Most normies who know about warhammer aren't going to know ANY of the game lingo, you'd only be able to get this question if you were actually in the hobby.
>>
>>98323207
luv me a big 'at
really ovely jubbly



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