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Work in Progress, Saturday Night Collage Edition

>Full-on /WIP/ OP Links Pastebin:
https://pastebin.com/BE42AEcD

>WIP Tutorial Images Mega
https://mega.nz/#F!TvQFCaLb!w8WZKCcOsTRasxrI0JWezw

>Saint Duncan's "Six Things I Wish I Knew When I Started Painting"
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ufP8ka3KGno

>Saint Duncan also explains thinning your paints
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wxWgsqSf74s

>Paint thinning 102
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sBDVPoNXyVI

>4 EASY Chipping Tricks For Beginners
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ku4comhKHJM

>Decal Like a Pro
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SYKLiEW7p9c

>How to Edge Highlight
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KoRbYuAfbEk

>How to use contrast style paints
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IhholrozptI

>How to Paint with Tremors
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oqp76vAJu9g

>Airbrush Priming and Thinning
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jkntrSBvXxE
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IGjBQzoukFg
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=00JVUxABe44
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AEqT_R41JX8

>We've got everything you need
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WbkAiRV3m38

>Who's Johnny, she'd say, and smile in her special way
https://1d6chan.miraheze.org/wiki/Johnny

Previous threads:
>>98326342
>>98311470
>>98295076
>>
Love a good collage, thanks baker-san.
>>
How do you guys mix paint in for your airbrush? I think l fucked up somehow and ended up with the tip full of paint
>>
>>98338462
I mix it in the cup like a barbarian but don't let stuff dry in the brush. Flow aide helps too.
>>
>>98338462
I started following Giraldez's advice, mix in one of those metal dishes, check the consistency, make sure there's no chunks of pigment, then pour into the airbrush. Cut down my clogs by like 80%
>>
>see a cool mini for 20 euro
>70 euro shipping to the USA
man what the fuck
>>
>>98338462
Seconding >>98338493
>>
File: lava base.jpg (1.64 MB, 3024x4032)
1.64 MB JPG
Trying to get a crackle lava base, never tried it before. Really hoping it turns out how the youtubes showed me.
>>
>>98338514
just realized I might have fucked it.
>Red/Orange/Yellow
>Clear PVA glue
>Homemade Technical paint (PVA, sand, black primer)
Should I have added a layer of varnish between the Lava colors and the clear PVA glue?
>>
File: INKCUPST_newM.jpg (48 KB, 550x550)
48 KB JPG
>>98338462
Recently I started using disposable tattoo caps to mix my paints in because I grew tired of scrubbing metal dishes after each session
>>
>>98337098
>>98337269
>>98333302
Thank you!
>are you going with the dazzling bright green for the weapons
That's a baller ass idea. The teeth on the chainswords would look awesome in bright green. I think that's how some of the Eldar chainswords in Rogue Trader were.
>>
File: oldhammer.jpg (406 KB, 1600x1200)
406 KB JPG
Luv me sum old minis, bought a bag of these fellas for dirt cheap.
>>
>>98338651
I'm jelly, what was the price?
>>
File: graphic.jpg (849 KB, 2808x1604)
849 KB JPG
>>98338663
about 15€
theres a bunch of other stuff, also bits and pieces
I honestly dont think the guy was aware of what he had, those black orcs usually sell here for about 7€ a piece
>>
File: 20260711_233348.jpg (1.01 MB, 2160x3840)
1.01 MB JPG
Tipping away at some of the Blackstone Fortress miniatures after they've sat incomplete on my shelf for a while.

Here's Pious Vorne.
>>
>>98338734
I feel like you could make it look better with a couple of easy steps
1) drybrush black on top of the flames, also make the recesses on the flame origin way brighter
2) paint the chainsaw casing a different color other than metallic
3) the osl is barely noticeably, push it
>>
File: 1.png (1.32 MB, 1162x940)
1.32 MB PNG
>>98338741
I suck balls at digital sketching but you get the idea, I thinkg
>>
>>98338754
I honestly think it looks better without the darker colours at the top.
I know it's supposed to represent smoke, but I honestly don't think it works on most models, and don't like how trendy it is to paint fire this way.
I think you'd be better off trying to extend your bright colours further up, to make it look more hot and vibrant.
>>
>>98338776
I dont think its done because its trendy.
Its done because if you put such a powerful light it will draw all the attention on the mini, and honestly theres probably more interesting places to make the focus other than the flame.
>>
>>98338527
I don't see why?
>>
>>98338792
>I dont think its done because its trendy.
It's not something people are consciously doing to "be trendy", but the only reason people think to paint the tips of their fire black is because they see other people doing the same thing, this is the definition of a trend.
>>
>>98338776
acetylene looks like that before you turn the oxygen on. not sure about napalm or the sci fi version they use in the year 40000.
>>
>>98338807
can you provide a reference pic? sounds interesting
>>
File: incomplete_combustion.jpg (214 KB, 683x1024)
214 KB JPG
>>98338776
It's trying to replicate the very dirty sooty flame of a poor combustion. Plus, it gives the flame contrast it normally doesn't have.
>>
>>98338754
Thanks for going to the effort of sketching out your ideas!
>>
>>98338815
I know what it's supposed to represent, I just don't think it looks very good in most applications. Not to mention tons of people don't actually know what it's supposed to look like, and just thoughtlessly paint all their flame tips black (black candle tips particularly annoy me).
In that anon's case, the flame looks much better without the darker black tips, and would look even better with a brighter body. Those flames ARE placed at the focal points of that model, so their colouration should reflect that.
>>
>>98338921
You said it's smoke, but it's soot. The candles you're used to are made with nice modern paraffin wax, not smelly old tallow.
Brightness might draw the eye, but contrast does even more so. They're perfect for focal points for that reason.
>>
>>98339018
>You said it's smoke, but it's soot
I feel like this is pedantic. I don't actually know the difference, soot just looks like black smoke to me.
>>
>>98339022(me)
>>98339018
Also tallow candles don't produce black soot right at the tip, that's not some modern innovation.
>>
WIPgods.
I come here spiritually on my knees for the latest and most up to date stahly chart that covers the paint brands he has covered? Please may I be granted a pdf of it?
Swisstransfer is a suitable file sharing means to grant me and us all the pdf(s).
>>
>>98339018
>Brightness might draw the eye, but contrast does even more so.
You don't actually know the purpose of contrast. You're right in saying "brightness draws the eye", but creating contrast is just creating dark and light spots so the eye is more readily drawn to the bright spots/focal points and differentiate two different areas of a piece. The contrast itself isn't drawing they eye, that's like saying the handle of an oar is doing the paddling, it doesn't make sense.
>>
File: 1773644552464503.jpg (496 KB, 1418x1078)
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Done with Dung Beetle Knight
I really like how he turned out in the end (trying to take a decent pic of color shift paint is a pain in the ass), this paintjob has been stuck in the back of my mind for months at this point and it feels good to finally see it come to life
>>
>>98339039
Nice, love the sheen on his armor
>>
>>98339039
Very nice models.
I need to know the paints and what was used for the basing.
I think the switch from constant stone face flooring to “regular dirt and grass” with the stone faces as rocks is a nice touch too.
>>
>>98339028
That balding ass faggot has divided his pdf in several files so people cant easily share them as a single document.
>>
>>98339030
NTA but contrary isn't just dark and light. It's also cold and warm, saturated and unsaturated, complimentary opposite colors, surface finishes etc
>>
>>98339100
yes, that is all true and you're right for mentioning it, I just didn't think it was relevant for the discussion
>>
>>98339030
No, the eye is not just drawn to brightness, it's especially drawn to differences in brightness and darkness, also known as (value) contrast. If I put 3 models in front of the average person, one black, one white, and one zebra striped, the zebra one will draw the most attention.
>>
>>98339123
This is a retarded conversation. Contrast is not a magical trait that instantly draws the eye to the thing that has the most contrast. Your eye is drawn to things that stand out, aka CONTRASTING elements, not contrast in and of itself. So a bright flame which contrasts the rest of the dark armour will draw the eye, and you actually DECREASE the amount it draws the eye by adding black to the tips of the flame, because that makes it contrast LESS with the REST of the model. Just adding black tips to flames doesn't make them draw the eye more, that's retarded.
Also I googled the difference between soot and smoke. Smoke is the cloud, soot is the residue, I was right to refer to it as smoke.
>>
>>98339053
Thanks!
Basing is
>texture paints, dry pigments and some of the resin plants are from gsw's swamp basing set
>mushrooms I sculpted out of green stuff
>stone faces are a couple kingdom death's stone face bases that I cannibalized and cut into bits but if you have an access to a 3d proonter it'd be easier and much cheaper to print them
>moss is just clump foliage
Paints are vallejo's the shifters - if you're interested specifically in the armor
>bright gold brown (basecoat) > green blue violet (1st highlight) > electric blue intense violet (2nd highlight) and then a black pin wash for all the crevises
>trim is vincy v's gold recipe except I kinda fucked up and the proportions are eyeballed and a bit of a brown pin wash on the chest sun crest
>>
>>98338499
third world countries do be like that
>>
>>98338792
>heres probably more interesting places to make the focus other than the flame.
if that's the case then having an sculpted flame was a mistake
>>
>>98339150
>>98339123
Your eye is drawn to the element that contrasts the other elements around it, not the one with the most internal contrast.
In your example, your eye would be drawn to the model with the zebra striping, because it would be the only patterned element, so it contrasts the other two unpatterned elements.
If you had a group of patterned elements, a plain one would stand out, even though the other models have more internal contrast.
>>
>>98339150
I get what you're saying, but you're wrong. If I were to paint a checker pattern on the flame, it would draw the eye more.
>Smoke is the cloud, soot is the residue, I was right to refer to it as smoke.
Sure. Soot is in smoke, once the smoke dissipates, the soot is left. What I mean is, smoke with high soot content will be very black and obvious. That's what it's trying to replicate.
>>
File: IMG_20260712_232626.jpg (734 KB, 3106x4096)
734 KB JPG
Shield nearly done, then back to the lion pelt, sword, and tidying up some odds and ends.

Then begins the heads, and the base and watchers
>>
>>98339179
The visual system has dedicated edge-detection neurons that fire specifically at boundaries between light and dark areas. We detect edges to distinguish objects from a background, because that's how we find food, detect predators, find ledges to grab, etc. While you're partially right, we really do look at dense clusters of light and dark contrast more. Color contrast is also a very strong pull, but that's a separate issue.
>>
>>98339187
>If I were to paint a checker pattern on the flame, it would draw the eye more.
again, that would be because the pattern is contrasting the rest of the model and also contrasting what you might normally see, not because the pattern itself has high contrast
>>
File: 1783842472808475.jpg (902 KB, 2311x940)
902 KB JPG
>>98339213
Read: >>98339206
Example pic.
>>
>>98338684
The metal ones, those plastic ones don't
>>
>>98339201
Looks good anon
>>
>>98339245
Yeah here they do.
>>
File: 1783856673930286.jpg (438 KB, 2311x940)
438 KB JPG
>>98339230
I feel like applying black outlines is a bit of an unrealistic example, when we're discussing just adding black tips. Picrel is my example of high contrast flames without using those pesky black tips.
>>
File: AspiringChampWIP1.png (367 KB, 480x640)
367 KB PNG
Any tips for painting for hazard stripes? I wanted to become very skillful at painting hazard stripes but I don't even really know where to begin practicing. This was the best I could do for one model. I think it came out well enough. But I couldn't do something as large as a pauldron or leg plate or something.
>>
>>98339253
Now you're using color contrast. If I add red and light yellow to mine, it'll be even more eye catching.
>>
This whole flames debate is silly.
>painting soot looks dumb
>there's precedent for it
>I'm going to pretend I didn't hear that
>>98339273
Liner brush. Literally designed for it.
>>
File: 1770351854679653.png (871 KB, 830x1027)
871 KB PNG
Reminder droppers are not better than pots
>>
>>98339358
Go shitpost somewhere else, you smelly faggot.
>>
File: IMG_20260712_145730.jpg (2 MB, 3998x1536)
2 MB JPG
Need to give these knights a wash. I think also need to paint some flesh, as some if the helmets are more open than others.
>>
>>98339358

This is why you prick them open with a toothpick if there's dried paint blocking it.
>>
>>98339358
deserved
>>
>>98339352
painting soot does look dumb in most cases though, and doesn't make sense for most applications
>>
File: osaka.jpg (4 KB, 225x225)
4 KB JPG
>>98339391
Nah, I think I'll just keep squeezing harder until paint comes out, even if the top comes out with it.
>>
>>98339358
Flip top pots were perfected in the 90s, we need to go back.
And we need to make the hinge way more resistant to snappning
>>
Pro acryl bottles would be the best on the market if they could fix the issue of dried paint buildup on the tip.
>>
>>98339436
>Flip top pots were perfected in the 90s
Yes anon, that's why virtually no one apart from GW (and some Tamiya paints) is using pots anymore. They suck dick and they are worse than droppers in every single aspect.
>inb4 but muh ancient semi-forgotten revell paint range no one used for twenty years
>>
>>98339451
>Yes anon, that's why...
...thats why you can find plenty of paints from back then that are perfectly usable.
Didnt read the rest of your rambling.
>>
>>98339469
Properly stored and unopened acrylics will probably outlast us both. I have fucking tubes, out of all things, that I inherited, some made in the early 90s, and the paint is fine. Same with bottles. You can have the same (if not better) shelf life without pots.
>>
>>98339408
based and barbarian pilled
>>
>>98339273
>paint markers
>decals
>pen them in and paint between the lines
>mask off areas with that super thin masking tape tamiya makes

You've got options.
>>
File: file.png (1.55 MB, 1149x890)
1.55 MB PNG
I like the normal one on the left more than the burning one
I thought a whole troop of burning space marines would be cool but after assembling and painting it it feels very extra
>>
File: 1759322837544518.jpg (47 KB, 740x740)
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>>98339804
why is your left dude having a headache
>>
File: 151252900.jpg (1.53 MB, 1500x2000)
1.53 MB JPG
>>98339358
I used to make fun of people for being retarded and popping the caps off their bottles, and then it happened to me.
>light squeeze
>paint starts dripping
>top shoots off
>many such cases, sad
If it can happen to me, it can happen to you.

>>98339436
They weren't perfect, but what is?
>bottles with screw-in eyedropper caps, that's what

>>98339496
>Properly stored and unopened acrylics
Or opened and used properly. See picrel for a bottle of Citadel Chainmail that's older than most of the posters in this thread. I purchased it from Enterprise 1701 in Orlando back in 1996 for the princely sum of $1.99. It could still be used but it won't be, because GW paints back then were fucking terrible, with the metallics being among the worst of the lineup. I keep it (and 9 or 10 others) for sentimental reasons.

I absolutely believe that people have problems with flip up caps. I also believe that the caps are not the problem, but what do I know?
>>
>>9834000
>$1.99
Fuck, $2.99.
>$6.49 in today's money for the curious
>>
>>98339496
>Properly stored and unopened
If you werent such brainlet you would have understood that Im specifically talking about OPENED paints.
But then again you probably wouldnt know as you never interacted with them in you life.

>inb4 the paints were actually terrible
yes, but Im talking about the pot
>>
>>98340040
It's still decades for opened and properly stored, you contrarian cretin. The fact you are not even aware of elementary properties of the paint we are talking about is telling. No wonder you like pots.
>>
File: IMG_20260712_190301.jpg (1.72 MB, 4000x1308)
1.72 MB JPG
>>98339389

Update on the knights.
>>
File: 20260712_202119.jpg (2.42 MB, 4000x3000)
2.42 MB JPG
Last time I'm buying bootleg decals.
>>
File: dread1.jpg (2.31 MB, 1775x1972)
2.31 MB JPG
Done with the dreadnought kitbash.
>>
File: 20260712_202119.jpg (365 KB, 2204x1031)
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>>98340434
Oops, forgot to crop the pic.
>>
>>98340434
Lol, that's part of why freehand is better
>>
>>98339201
Incredible. Astonishing work.
>>
>>98340434
Nice Minecraft Creeper GM
>>
>>98340435
Very cool raptor dread
>>
>>98339358
>Translated from Japanese: "Fuck"
>>
File: tes2766.jpg (23 KB, 258x400)
23 KB JPG
>>98339358
I hate how I got memed into transferring all my citadel paints into dropper bottles. But at least all my paints fit in the same paint wrack now, thats the only saving grace.

>>98340004
>they weren't perfect, but what is
Pic related. A regular ass glass jar with an aluminum screw cap. I wish this is how all paints were sold.
>>
>>98339358
normal people
>lightly squeeze bottle
>nothing comes out
>get a paper clip and clear the tip
>it works

autistic retards
>lightly squeeze bottle
>nothing comes out
>squeeze harder
>entire top pops off
>>CURSE THESE DAMNABLE DROPPER BOTTLES!!!
>>
Since we're sperging about pots vs droppers...
Do you guys know where can i get empty flip top pots to transfer my paints into?
Im not even remotely shitposting.

Ideally I'd love hexagonal ones like those ancient GW ones but I think only GW ever made those.
>>
File: dread_back.jpg (2.02 MB, 1867x1883)
2.02 MB JPG
>>98340554
Thank you, anon. Raptors it is!
>>
>>98340804
personally i would just fdm print them to be honest unless there is some chinese sweatshop that sells them for next to nothing
i bet someone has made stl file for every old citadel pot
>>
>>98340804
For inside the hobby space,
https://monumenthobbies.com/products/pro-acryl-empty-bottle-set-22ml

But for the best price you need to explore the industrial and scientific supply space.
I found these in a minute, might be close to what you need.
https://www.berlinpackaging.com/6030c03-black-polypropylene-plastic-unlined-flip-top-cap/
The keywords to get started are “17ml Boston round hdpe”. Google that and you will be looking down the barrel of as many paint dropper bottles as you can envision. Poke around and see if you find something you fancy. Make sure the thread and neck match for your bottles and caps.
>>
>>98340435
As good as always raptorbro

For some reason it kinda reminds me of some sort of soviet mecha.
>>
>>98340435
Beautiful
>>
>>98340435
Man this looks cool as hell. I really want to do a raptors kill team or something
>>
File: dread_right.jpg (1.54 MB, 1433x2079)
1.54 MB JPG
>>98341002
Thank you, anon!
Might be the ERA bricks, these are old Soviet Kontakt-1 ones. I have some scifi reactive armor printed, but I just love the classic look.

>>98341023
Thank you, anon.

>>98341034
You should, Raptors are extremely fun. And you can paint them in whatever camo/color you want, too. I would like to do some in urban and desert camo soon.
>>
>>98338462
Add thinner to the cup first, then add paint on top of the thinner. Mix it with an old paintbrush. Some people block the nozzle and bubble it, but that can get really messy really quickly.
>>
>>98340952
>pro acryl caps
Unless the lgs is selling them it can be better to use 20/410 caps.
>Amazon link super long
I hate this.

Unfortunately my newsh bottle cap pops up a very slight bit.
Does anybody know what size replacement caps for their prime bottles would be?
>>
>>98338469
>>98338493
>>98338502
>>98338538
Thanks, going to order some mixing cups. Will get flow aid as well if l keep having issues.
>>
>>98339250
Nah they don't
>>
>>98340086
Imagine how good they would look ranked up on square bases
>>
File: 20260709_191209.jpg (1.23 MB, 3393x2296)
1.23 MB JPG
Tentatively starting the cleaning and assembly of parts for this warhound titan.

Its a resin print, so being as careful as possible when it comes to sanding and prepping the parts for glueing.

Its a bit intimidating, given the size and overall weight. I anticipate that posing the legs will pretty important, trying to get a good look while achieving decent stability.

Im using glue, apoxy and brass pins to fix the pieces together, depending on what's needed.

Ill be painting it in a Legio Ignatum scheme, maybe with a bit of custom flair here and there.
>>
Are there any good sources of Chaos Warrior or Cathay bits? Both stls and actual plastic will work fine
>>
>>98341504
>resin print
Can you share the stls please? I need them for the epic scales.
>>
File: 20260713_114246.jpg (1.52 MB, 3106x2862)
1.52 MB JPG
Lord of Skulz WIP

>>98341506
yes
>>
PSA: AK Interactive Abteilung 502 Marta Kolinsky Brushes are amazing.
>>
>>98341670
Created a mesh of him with tripo to further make 3d bits.
>>
File: 20260712_174741.jpg (1.95 MB, 4000x3000)
1.95 MB JPG
How does the green work?
>>
>>98341820
By reflecting light at wavelengths between 495–570 nm.
>>
File: u94x56mdvjm81.jpg (49 KB, 614x801)
49 KB JPG
>>98341922
>Photo's all tucked up
>Carlos is giving me sass
>Think the paintjob might be scratched
>>
File: PXL_20260713_013109013.jpg (978 KB, 2566x1341)
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Finished 5 Boyz from the Armageddon box tonight. Starting on the painboy tomorrow with some friends that are coming over to paint with me.
>>
File: 20260712_211454.jpg (429 KB, 3000x4000)
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Squash.
Doing things differently for the second armiger, still have to clean up the stripes some more and give it a few more coats of white.
>>
>>98341964
looks like a good forest warrior, fine work for your wip
its a good base. try making some of the scales different shades and giving it some depth there.
heres a tip, use the camera focus to focus on the mini instead of your thumb for future pictures.
>>
File: 20260712_211207.jpg (476 KB, 3000x4000)
476 KB JPG
>>98342061
first time using masking on a model and it hasn't gone quite to plan, these stripes have been a constant battle of "clean up one bit, fuck up another"
>>
File: D test.jpg (3.67 MB, 2539x3000)
3.67 MB JPG
Brainstorming a scheme on a spare 3D print. Not proud of the paintjob but it helped me visualize the colors and I think I have most of the paints written down for my next attempt. Also got some unwanted texture when I airbrushed the flesh so I'll be more cautious of that in the future.
>>98339039
I really like that iridescent armor and basing!
>>98339358
Owari da...
>>98340435
Fantastic work, raptor anon!
>>
>>98339039
Cool dude
>>
>>98340435
Well done, looks like soulful Gundam animes
>>
>>98341670
>>98341782
I'm gonna hang a license plate with chains at the back. What would it say? uninspired ideas so far: B4TBG , SKULLZ, BL00D...
>>
>>98342183
A bumper sticker
>honk of you're Khorny
>>
>>98338141
Primed all my infernus after finishing the 2nd squad, hopefully 2 coats of army painter white in each facing is enough for a base layer
>>
File: Golden Fluid Acrylics.jpg (12 KB, 547x365)
12 KB JPG
>>98340004
>I absolutely believe that people have problems with flip up caps. I also believe that the caps are not the problem, but what do I know?
Modern GW flip caps are this weird animal where everything can go right but it often doesn't. The problem of dried paint is something I see come up a lot.
Art paint caps have this self-cleaning design where even if you totally fuck it up, as long as it closes it's sealed. High Flow also has threaded dropper caps that don't pop off, I have accidentally shot paint out trying to clear a clog but it would never dump out the bottle like that.
Like the other anon said, caps have been solved for a long time. There's a kind of perverse incentive for mini paint brands to not idiot-proof their bottles.
>>
>>98342208
That's good, I'm using that one
>>
>>98340744
Shut up. Shut the fuck up. You know nothing.

You know everything.
>>
>>98342213
You make a good point about art and craft paint bottle caps. An interesting thing is that Golden's high flows use a dropper cap similar to Pro Acryl, but they don't seem to shit the bed like Pro Acryl sometimes does. Maybe someone smarter than me can explain that.

We have shit cap designs, okay cap designs, and good cap designs. Why doesn't everyone just use an existing good design? Is it a patent issue? Maybe someone smarter than me can explain this too.

In the meantime, this is what I use for the stuff that I mix:
>https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08P16TBL1
My only complaint is that sometimes the lid won't seal the first time that it's screwed down, meaning that when I shake it up for the first time anything from thinned Dullcote to black oil wash sprays all over the place. It only seems to ever happen the first time though, and not every time. When they're not catapulting shit around my kitchen, they give me the option of dropping whatever is that they contain onto a pallet or into an airbrush, or dipping a brush directly into the bottle (or more commonly, touching the brush to the side of the dropper) to wet the brush. I'm 50 years old. I can accept droppers, but you will never convince me that threaded caps and sticking brushes in bottles are not good ideas.
>>
Got some magnets to sit flush with GW bases. 2lbs of pull force. What kind of glue do I need to hold the bastards on? Tried army painter superglue, cured overnight, and around 50% ripped off first trip.
>>
>>98342317
>An interesting thing is that Golden's high flows use a dropper cap similar to Pro Acryl, but they don't seem to shit the bed like Pro Acryl sometimes does. Maybe someone smarter than me can explain that.
On the Golden caps the glans is threaded so there's no way for it to come apart. I don't know why the Pro Acryl ones are friction fit, might be cheaper.
>>
>>98342331
stick it on there with epoxy putty or something
>>
>primer is already chipping off metal model not even halfway through painting
am I going to have to reprime this thing with a rattlecan?
>>
>>98342331
Bro you are going to snap your models off the base with magnets that strong
>>
>>98342541
Did you wash your minis beforehand? It's often not required for plastic models but metal models kinda need it.
>>
>>98342563
I had to strip it so yeah it took several dunks in acetone and a few baths in the ultrasonic
>>
>>98339039
how did you do the beetle armor? did you use color shift paint?
>>
>>98341482

No offense, but I find TOW to be a bit too clunky for my taste. I've had fun playing it, but that's because I've played against people who were charitable and pleasant to be around. The people you play with are more important than the system you play.
Besides, I've got movement trays. Speaking of which, I think I'll have to paint them, add some tufts etc.
>>
>>98342633
>The people you play with are more important than the system you play.

I think this is one of the most universal rules with any game. Shitty people can make the best game a terrible experience.
>>
>>98342614
Yeah, it's vallejo's the shifters
>prime black (or gloss black if you have it, I didnt)
>gloss coat (if didnt already prime glossy)
>airbrush color shift paint - in case of vallejo's color shift paints I barely even thinned them (p. sure you can just use them straight out of the bottle tho), like 1-2 drops thinner and 1 flow improver per 10 drops of paint
>order is bright gold brown (basecoat) > green blue violet (1st highlight) > electric blue intense violet (2nd highlight)
and then another gloss coat on top to seal it and a black pin wash for the cracks
>>
>>98342633
just talking visually, not practically
>>
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Currently kitbashing a Librarian for my Mortifactors. I will probably have to sculpt better connectors for the cables and improvd the base.
>>
>>98342712

Fair enough, they might've looked better that way. At least now I'll have an incentive to paint the movement trays I've got lying around.
>>
>>98342562
Model to base has been fine so far. Got 100 of them so I would like to use them.
>>
>>98338141
Can anyone point me to a decent resource for modeling tyranid exoskeleton bits? I'm prepping for some genestealer cult kitbashes, but I want to do some greenstuff work to really tie the models together. Stuff like exoskeleton bracers, back plating, etc.

I didn't see anything in the OP's Mega, so I figured I would ask.
>>
Are Warcolours paints any good?
>>
>>98342049
Lovely job anon, im excited to see you orkz once you finish them all!

>>98342717
pretty nice anon, great bash
>>
>>98342099
Thank you!
>Also got some unwanted texture when I airbrushed the flesh
You can often fix that with a gloss varnish.

>>98342134
Thank you, anon.

>>98342717
>Mortifactors
Very cool. Nice kitbash.
>>
>>98339039
Been curious about these colour shift paints. They only show the shift on a larger surface, right?
The way they were described to me, they're to blends what true metallics are to nmm. I'm thinking about using some for tyranids carapace and wonder if anyone has tried that.
>>
>>98343118
>They only show the shift on a larger surface, right?
The effect is based on the viewing angle, so the size of the surface shouldn't matter, just how flat (or not) it is.
>>
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minor update, just the sword to go now

not sure what approach I'm going to take, not even sure about the hilt colour!
>>
>>98343405
Oh and his left pauldron, I keep forgetting about that
>>
Wanting to make some fantasy terrain and I am deciding between getting a FDM printer or a hot wire table to cut foam. Outside cost vs time spent, what else should I be thinking about when deciding between the two?
>>
>>98343560
You should get both tßh.
>>
>>98343560
How much space do you have? Both methods result in tons and tons of terrain pieces, and you need to store them somehow.
Printing is very straightforwardand you will paint a lot. Building terrain from foam is time consuming and this can be a lot of fun too, but if you don't like it, it won't give you much enjoyment.
>>
>>98343560
>what else should I be thinking about when deciding between the two?
i don't think they are comparable tools, but you need to think about how are you going to use it
do you want to just print a finished product and paint it or do you like hand crafting?
can you stomach layer lines? are you willing to put in the effort to hide them?
do you want to just print the structure and cover it with other materials for the visible finish?

even if not for directly printing the terrain, a printer can be useful to make (or assist in making) yourself other tools to make terrain, or make templates for cutting material, you may also use it as a plotter to draw on your foam before cutting

if you have any carpentry tool already making a hot wire table is also cheap and easy
>>
>>98343672
Half of an unfinished basement. I’m not worried for space. And yeah I figured it’s time consuming doing the stones (which is probably what the table would be making for the most part). I do have cardboard now so I suppose I can try making some stuff just to see if I can make things that I like (albeit unfinished) or if I should give up for printed terrain
>>
>>98342837
I think theyre alright.
I had an old good new bad oldhammer phase where I used goblin green from their nostalgia88 line.
It got the job done coverage wise.
I think warcolours’ oldhammer toned colors are what keep them afloat the most as if I recall correctly Coat D’Arms is about as accurate to the original citadel paint recipes regardless of coverage or not for maximum nostalgia pandering.
Warcolours’ nostalgia88 is just color tones I think.
>>
How is this? Should i put more highlight on the skin?
>>
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>>98341670
>>98341782
coming along
>>
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>want to base all my scatter terrain so it looks nice and doesn't get damaged
>if I do it's tied to say martian red sand and it would look weird elsewhere

hmmmm
>>
>>98343914
also what's the cheapest way to make liquid blood for his blood-tank? Any recommendations for pouring resin products / pigments?
>>
>>98343695
>the effort to hide them
Brush on clear printer resin and shine a uv light on it, not really "effort".
>>
>>98343806
>Coat D’Arms is about as accurate to the original citadel paint recipes
They ARE exactly the old citadel recipes, that is the company that was contracted to make them, when citadel moved on they kept making the exact same paint with their own branding.
Citadel paints now are a knockoff replica of their original stuff, coat d'arms is the real deal.
>>
>>98344266
Oh my bad then.
How are their metallic acrylics.
I think the constant mimicking of citadel paints when it comes to their metallic paints is the only feasible metallic paint standardization right now. The non metallics are standardized from historical color accuracy charts like fs or ral.
>>
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Had a...complicated month, couldnt take in between steps photos.
But I'll be sure to post progress on future big projects.
Hope to see some other Defilers here, looking at you, TS anon.
And Yuru anon, may you have a blessed day, its nice to see you post image again (its been a while but hey...)

>>98340435
>>98340841
Holy shit thats cool !
How many hours were poured into this ? Looks like I'm looking at 2 months project.
>>
Does anybody here find paints pre-loaded with agitators a turn-off?
Most opt for stainless steel agitators that may eventually rust if they are super cheap ones.
Others seem to be glass ones that may not have the weight of stainless steel agitators to my knowledge.
I prefer if paints don’t have agitators so the choice to have them or not can be made.
>>
>>98343878
Hard to say while it's still wip but I want her to crush my head between her thighs so take that as you may.
>>
>>98344317
The most sexo Defiler. Love the weathering on the striped armor, too. Airbrush + oils?
>How many hours were poured into this ?
A bit over a month, I think. It wasn't as complex as it looks like.
Yesterday, I have started working on tracked Impulsor with a complete interior (including the crew and engine compartment), and I think that one will definitely go over two months. Already having a blast, though.
>>
>>98343914
the snips looks like it's got a pair of feline arms crossed in front of it.

makes me wonder if anyone's ever done a sphinx-like version of this in thousand sons colors.
>>
>>98343878
No. If anything, it's a but much.
>>
>>98343928
Doesn't matter how you base, it will always look weird outside a single context.
>>
>>98344400
>Airbrush + oils?
Airbrush for the orange darker part of the stripes, and just panel liner to black line.
The rest is freehanded, no masking tape, just pure spite.
HF on the Impulsor, love to paint and hide stuff too, I find it kinda poetic.
>>
>>98344467
>The rest is freehanded, no masking tape, just pure spite.
Impressive brushwork AND autism. I applaud that.
>I find it kinda poetic.
Most definitely. Others might not know, but (you) know.
>>
Man building vehicles is a ton of fun, but I gotta admit, I caught myself holding off on assembling the tracks for as long as I can.
Those are always easily the worst part of the build.
This is my first Tamiya kit and holy hell, the build itself and the parts quality is damn near perfect. Everything just fits and clicks into place so smoothly. The Revell kits I've build were straight shit compared to it.
It's a Sturmtiger, which I plan to convert into a more space-western/sci fi looking vehicle. I imagine a sort of very crude, very violent mobile siege cannon on Mars just blasting 38cm mini-nukes.
>>
>>98344549
>scale models in my /wip/
based
>thicctiger
even more based

Are the tracks segmented (they come in like ten parts for each side), or workable (you have to put together each link)?
Also Tamiya's golden standard, but you if you want to build some top shit, check out newer models from Takom, Meng, or Ryefield. They make some seriously impressive kits.
>>
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>>98344577
>Are the tracks segmented (they come in like ten parts for each side), or workable (you have to put together each link)?
I shitposted about it in a less serious way before, the tracks are like the attached image.
>if you want to build some top shit, check out newer models from Takom, Meng, or Ryefield.
Thanks a ton for those brand recommendations! I'm always looking for cool shit. Assembling was always more fun to me than painting, so my thought was to move more to vehicles, tanks, mechs etc. Got myself some Gundams, WW2 and Sci-Fi tanks and it's a blast. Plus, of course I'll use them as units or terrain in my solo wargaming RPGs
>>
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>dont have skin color
>mix red and white to make skin color
>looks fantastic
>apply it
>to go bed
>wake up
>look at my mini
>it turned purple
can i salvage this somehow
>>
>>98344678
Looks like it’d make a good recess color. Add some lighter shades on top that goes toward a pinker skin tone
>>
I want to try speed pain/contrast paints for my skellies. But im unsure if I should buy skeleton horde or Bony Matter. Are there any significant quality differences between them?
>>
>>98344678
She just got a sun burn kek
>>
>>98343878
you need to blend it more
>>
>>98344678
1 part blue, 1 part red, 2 parts yellow, 3-7 parts white (going from base to highlight)
>>
>>98339450
my shop sells replacement tops that have a screw on lid. totally worth the price for a bunch
>>
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>>98344549
Always nice seeing scalebros here!
>>98344317
Fantastic job, I really like the skin and those panels with hazard stripes are beautifully done. Happy to see more of your work, anon.
>>98343405
Looks great so far, that cape really does look like real leather!
>>98342099
I think the scheme would come together nicely if you added some more purple tones into the shadows maybe?
>>98342075
I haven't tried it myself but if I remember correctly putting a layer of varnish over the tape can help prevent paint getting under it, giving you a cleaner result.
>>98342049
Always happy to see more of your orks, the blue you're using for them is really nice.
>>98340435
Beautiful work as always! Your conversions are fantastic and so are the paintjobs.
>>
>>98344896
Thank you, based anon.
>>
lets say hypothetically i got too excited and glued a skull to a primed and partially painted minis base without priming the skull.

what do i do? can i just paint and varnish the skull as normal or do i need to rip it off the base now, or invest in brush on primer?
>>
>>98342049
Sweet, but paint their fingernails.
>>
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Not happy with how my woodland ground has turned out. How would you salvage this?
>>
>>98344239
sure, if you don't mind mushing the detail even more

>clear printer resin
at that point just get a resin printer instead
>>
>>98345038
sprinkle leaves twigs and electrostatic grass
>>
>>98345055
No, you smooth the details, and the thin shellac-like coating over the fdm superstructure is an incredibly different thing than resin printing.
You aren't doing a 12"x12"x24" piece of terrain on SLA/DLP.
STFU and leave printing advice to people who actually print.
>>
>>98345070
>you smooth the details
exactly, so you agree with me, why are you so aggresive? need a hug?

>You aren't doing a 12"x12"x24" piece of terrain on SLA/DLP.
you can, it just takes a lot more money and time but you get a lot more detail in exchange
sure it may not matter for trees, rocks, and stuff like that, but if you want to print a house with sculpted bricks and wood grain you have to weigh how much detail you want in the finished product
>>
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>>98344896
Thanks for the advice, wish I'd read this before I finished the shoulders, but I'll remember for future projects.
>>
>>98345002
well you already made a mistake by trying to glue something to paint instead of bare plastic. if you can pry the skull off, sand off the primer where you want it, reglue it, and then mask off the already painted parts so you can reprime that would be best. otherwise you might as well just paint the skull where it is and hope that it won't be disturbed since it's just a doodad stuck to the base. the worst that can happen is it falls off.
>>
>>98344896
>I haven't tried it myself but if I remember correctly putting a layer of varnish over the tape can help prevent paint getting under it
we already had a thread long ack-out over this it doesn't actually work
>>
>>98345131
Smooth like your brain instead of layer lined dumbass.
And no you can't, suction will fail, resin printing size is limited by physics.
Again, leave the advice for people who actually use these tools.
>>
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Helmets dome!
>>
>>98345038
Drybrush the grass with green, then yellow.
Use yellow to mix highlights for greens, not white unless you want mint.
>>
>>98345190
My bad, I must've not read the entire discussion.
>>
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>>98345195
> leave the advice for people who actually use these tools.
>>
>>98345308
That is a series of small pieces, and whoever printed it is retarded, at that price buy the fucking plastic kit.
>>
>>98345002
it's fine, just paint it.
>>
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>>98345322
>you can't cut models in smaller pieces and fill your plate

i have to agree with you that he is retarded because it looks like shit but that's beside the point
>>
>>98345236
What minis are those? I like them and your colors.
>>98345308
>>98345360
What printer, resin and settings?
I’m getting a basement ventilation setup ready.
>>
>>98345366
i don't know it's just google results
>https://www.reddit.com/r/PrintedWarhammer/comments/1aflms4/printing_some_resin_terrain/
>https://www.reddit.com/r/TerrainBuilding/comments/1frfw6p/and_heres_a_little_set_of_ruins_this_time_its_3d/

>inb4, oh no it's reddit i'm melting
>>
>>98345372
>i don't know
I am aware, you already made it abundantly clear that you do not print.
>>98345366
If you put it on the ground level you don't need a ventilation setup.
>>
>>98345372
Thanks.
>>98345431
I’m still gonna do it because I might get a pet.
Same reason I avoid oils and enamels and stick to nontoxic stuff.
>>
>>98345438
I painted models with testors enamels when I was a kid and my pet cat lived to 20.
>>
>>98345438
I would understand you don't want to airbrush enamels/lacquers, but not using oil paints too is just silly.
>>
>>98345431
>I am aware, you already made it abundantly clear that you do not print.
yet i have proven you wrong twice, weird
>>
>>98345438
I have two cats
>>
>>98345567
>in my mind, it was real
>>
>>98345595
in yours the pics are fake

you should have told us at the start that your are deranged
>>
>>98342215
Please post a picture when done.
>>
>>98345595
>>98345645
how about you niggers take this to /3dpg/ already
>>
>>98345645
Timestamp, prove they aren't
>>
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Free-handing saint George and the dragon on this 28mm turcopole. WIP since I need to finish the blue and add weathering and battle damage, already cleaned up George, his horse and the dragon so no need to point the mistakes out :^)
>>
>>98343695
>can you stomach layer lines? are you willing to put in the effort to hide them?
those are almost a non-issue on terrain
you aren't putting your face down next to terrain, right?
>>
Does anyone have any good books about miniature painting?
>>
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>>98345855
>AK Interactive Learning Series Vol. 12 - Painting Female Figures
WVVoU01HTklUVFpNZVRsMFdsZGthRXh0TlRaTU1scDJZa2RTYkdOcE9IcGxiV2hUWVRGR1RGZHBUbTVPYlRWUlRqSlNibFpJWkhOU01FcGFVa2MxY1ZaNlFtWlJNa1p1
>>
>>98345855
>>98345929
Threadly reminder that you can get a whole lot of AK FAQ books from zlib. Just make sure to go on zlib wiki for the fresh link and not a fake one google gives you.
>>
>>98345929
based
>>
>>98345847
it's subjective, i can't stand painting things with visible lines even if at table distance they look fine, just like i like nice blends on models even if they don't matter a meter away
he has to answer that question for himself, we can't do it for him

>>98345699
took you long enough
>>
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>paint metallics
>highlight silver dried into a thick ass paste in the dropper
I hate metal paints
I also hate uncut decals
>>
>>98345736
i will point the mistakes out. you haven't done another one yet. thats some great freehand
>>
>>98346094
says the guy who is two hours late
>>
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Done some work on the tracked Impulsor kitbash. Very early WIP, but the interior is shaping up well so far. Testmarine for scale.
>>
>>98346119
Welp, time to take the NMM pill.
>>
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I took a week and a bit break from painting. I'm hoping to get all the metal trim on the armor done tonight.
>>98345736
I looked at your pic before reading the comment and could immediately tell it was St George. I wish I was that good at freehanding.
>>
>>98346119
you get more out of metallics the dryer your brush is.
less is more.
>>
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the cleanstealer has built up quite a collection of bits, I think I should stop things here before it gets too busy.

I do really like the idea of genestealers carrying trophies around, especially ymgarl considering they're the red-headed step children of the hive fleets, not even because they personally feel attachment, but from a lictor/deathleaper "this has a measurable psychological impact on the enemy, continue this behavior" sort of fashion.
>>
>splurged on a bunch of cheap boxes
>added 5 boxes to my pile
>feel overbearing shame
>assemble 4 boxes of guys
>120 figures
I'm a little worried I took too big of a bite but I shall endeavor to endure.
>>
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Some more work done on my dwarfs.
I reckon these should be finished by tomorrow or maybe Wednesday evening.

(I can't take indoor pictures to save my life)
>>
>>98346620
What type of figures?
Honestly 120 isn't too bad, especially if you can keep your purchasing in check.

That's what... just a tad more than 2 models painted per week. If you want to get them done in a year.
I'd say it's not an impossible task, especially if we're talking standard infantry sized models.
>>
>>98346652
Various oathmark boxes.
Also got some victrix gauls.
>>
I'm working on the Ultramarines Combat Patrol now. Got the librarian and Reivers ready to prime tomorrow.
>>
>>98346688
You got this anon. That's literally 10 models a month. You can easily batch paint 3-4 of those per week.

That's what I'm currently doing; batch painting 12 modelsnat the time, 8-9 from my latest acquisition and 3-4 from my main backlog. This way they new stuff gets done quickly, but there's still progress on the old stuff.

You've already assembled them, now get priming and then get painting.
>>
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>>98346439
maybe I'll give up metallics after this army

>>98346602
even when it works fine, I just hate how metallic paints behave
>>
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>>98343914
Excuse the baking soda mess, will get brushed off later. Still have to
1. add a couple of bloodletters on the side rails
2. add a few bits I didn't use from Angron
3. make back/shoulders
4. make waist armour panels
6. make some kind of tubes connecting the tank and body.
7.I think I'm going to go with resin + alcohol ink for the blood tank, but not sure whether I will need blue/brown as well as red to make it look bloody. Now that I think of it , blood would be pretty opaque so I must investigate making resin cloudy/ semi opaque..

>>98344404
Lol I see it. I've seen a Nurgle LoS but not a Tzeentch one. Tzeentch and Khorne are not friends at this moment.

>>98346642
Looks great from a distance and with a fuzzy photo, good paint job i reckon!

>>98346354
Very nice. Will be cool to see some army shots.

>>98346652
I need to think in terms of the next year, good approach. Because I want to rush and feel stressed otherwise..
>>
>>98346711
Im aiming to finish them before my vacation is over next week....
>>
>>98346713
Oh and needs armour plates underside of the forearms to round out the shape. I think forgefiend arm plates will work.
>>
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Painted some more boyz.
>>
>>98346726
Lol good luck anon. I wish you the best, now turn off your phone/computer so you don't get distracted and get cracking.
>>
>>98345366
>Mini
OPR human defense force
>>
>>98346713
I really love this
>>
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Painting some Sisters Repentia, my army’s main robe color is blue. Should I make their hoods blue and rags blue, or their hoods blue and their rags some other color? The official image on the website has black rags and red hoods, but I’m not sure about that.
>>
>>98346942
Thank you kindly!
>>
>>98346735
Well done anon, they look fuckin brootal!
>>
>>98347081
those aren't repentia, repentia are only allowed to wear purity seals, heading into battle unclad is part of their penance, their only armor is the emperors blessing.
>>
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>>98338141
I don't know why but I always seem to be bad at base coating in particular
I seem to take forever only to either somehow clog up detail or not have any good or consistent coverage
When it comes to actually painting details I'm fine, but I feel like I'm missing something fundamental for the most basic part
It's probably my least favorite part of the hobby
Can anyone offer any advice?
>>
>>98347325
Technically youre supposed to use a proper undercoat depending on the main colors of your mini.
If you want vibrant and saturated colors, go with white. For a rich gold, brown undercoat.
For very bright metallics, a glossy black, etc.

In any case, basecoating shouldnt be so troublesome and it sounds like youre having issues finding the proper paint dilution
>only to either somehow clog up detail or not have any good or consistent coverage

Keep in mind no 2 paints are the same and you have to adapt depending on which one youre using. Some paints can offer an almost perfect coverage with a single coat, while others may take 3-4

Maybe youre not using the right colors for your basecoats?
>>
>>98347158
Based knower, fuck nuGW
>>
>>98346094
>i can't stand painting things with visible lines
that part I can understand
>>
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>>98347158
Funny looking purity seals.
>>
>>98347347
I still want a model for her.
>>
>you cant have revealing minis because....because you cant, OKAY!?!?
>>
>>98345929
>>98345967
nta but thanks bwos got a bunch of (hopefully) good shit
>>
>>98347430
This started because anon was upsetty over the repentia not being naked.
>y-you have to have them NAKED okay??? If they're not naked then they're not REAL!!!
>>
>>98347384
Some of the new models (while suffering from ugly face syndrome) are more revealing than those.
>>
>>98347447
>describe repentia being dressed a certain and specific way
>model them differently
>'n-no you cant point that out! youre just upsetty, a gooner, and an incel too!'
>>
>>98347403
Convert one. This is now your life's work.
>>
>>98347480
Or just get one of the many coomer repentia models out there. I don't get the whole discussion.. naked and semi naked repentia proxies are available at pretty much every corner, but somehow people want or need GW to also sell them? And because they don't this is somehow a conspiracy or something?
>>
>>98347467
Where is described that Repentia wear nothing at all? And more specifically: where is described that all of them do that. Wearing no power armour opens a wide field of possible interpretations of their outfits, as seen in a variety of miniatures and art we got. There is no uniformity.
>>
I just want a properly dressed repentia that isnt a coomer mini with fuckhuge boobs or ass, is it really that hard to understand?
>>
>>98347510
>is it really that hard to understand?
normal people understand, normal people agree
>>
>>98345736
Beautiful!
>>
File: marble test.jpg (3.04 MB, 3024x4032)
3.04 MB JPG
Im trying to make the bases look like multiple slabs of different cuts of marble are making up a single floor. I dont think they look good enough to justify all the extra work, but I'm not sure. Would appreciate some thoughts.
>>
>>98347510
5 seconds on Google:
https://cults3d.com/de/modell-3d/spiel/maiden-sisters-repentium-squad
>>
>>98347506
Pretty sure the point is that GW are cowards who's writing is a lot wilder than their models. As a Deldar player, I have to agree.
>>
>>98347523
>those thighs and hips
>not coomer
is your brain fried to such a degree you dont recognize pinup minis within 3 seconds of looking at them?
>>
>>98347523
Those assets are pretty big.
>>
>>98342837
Excellent, especially the nostalgia 88 line they sadly discontinued, stupid move. But their dropper bottles are stiff so hard to use. The 88 line came in classic pots. They need to use those for everything. All companies should. In them paint will literally last forever. I have paints from 1988 that are still oerfect.
>>
>>98347535
Are those pots for sale anywhere? I cannot seem to be able to find them

>inb4 buy coat d'arms
the paints are garbage and im only interested in the pots
>>
>>98342099
Would
>>
>>98347525
And that is a problem?
>>
>>98347522
I think the effect looks good, only issue I would see for a realistic look is the veining going from one slab to the other, in actual marble its independent from tile to tile, but that would increase your workload.
Honestly I think it looks good enough as is.
I would, however, hit it with some gloss varnish to mimic polished marble.
>>
>>98347529
Pinup and coomer are two different things. And in regards of titty and ass size, those minis are pretty tame.
I kinda get it tho: Anon wants mostly naked bdsm fetish nuns, but in an non sexual way?
>>
>>98347535
I bought a nostalgia 88 skull white for the Nazi meme, but the paint is shit. No wonder they discontinued it.
>>
>>98347538
Yes, https://www.theplasticbottlescompany.com/shop/product/paint-pot-20ml-polypropylene-natural/
Pick up the caps below too https://www.theplasticbottlescompany.com/shop/product/cap-20mm-tamper-evident-flip-top-white/

They work wonderfully. Warcolours used to sell them too, they need to again
>>
>>98347570
Oh i think coat arms used to sell the empty pots not warcolours. They need to again but the links 8 gave have them. Embs lists a few possible suppliers for pots but you may have to search the sites as the direct links are old http://embscomputerart.com/miniatures-painting-a-fallen-citadel-rebuilt/
>>
>>98347590
>>98347570
Here's another supplier Embs mentioned https://www.ampulla.co.uk/shop/industry-packaging/homecare-diy-packaging/20ml-plastic-paint-pot-push-lid/
>>
>>98347567
Turn it upside down 20 minutes before use. The pots are designed to be able to do that.
>>
>>98347554
Yes. The writing is more fun than the models reflect and that's only because of corporate greed. I'd prefer if they didn't cater to the sensibilities of the boring masses.
>>
>>98347560
>bdsm fetish
Where's the bdsm part come in?
>>
>>98347610
Have you seen the whips of the unit leaders? Anon.. how old are you?
>>
>>98347510
>is it really that hard to understand?
yes what the hell is wrong with you? why don't you want completely naked repentia wearing only a blindfold? (faith in the emperor lets her see or something)
>>
>>98347605
The models were never meant to represent the writing 1 to 1 (same as the rules for that matter).
The miniatures can not cover everything anyway. The stories, books and artworks should inspire you to make your own stories, set within that setting, convert your own miniatures and play your own campaigns based on that.
You (and GW) might have forgotten that, but that is the idea.
>>
>>98347522
the pattern looks ok but they are too matte. you need to put like 3 or 4 gloss coats down to make it look like a real floor.
>>
>>98347641
The ones in that link arent even fully naked, but they are covered with purity seals. (Wargames Exclusive also has nsfw chaos versions of their sister sets, but anon wanted the tasteful version).
>>
The gw stories are designed to sell paint, that's why the paints are named after the races in the books. It's juvenile but people fall for it.
>>
>>98347648
It clearly works, because pretty much all big paint brands have "fantasy" names for their paints.
>>
>>98347650
Well gw had names like skull white chaos black woodland green, goblin green, etc which were descriptive of the color, now it's not descriptive at all, so it's just marketing to sell more paint people think are exclusive patents which are really just copyrighted and to conceal the actual pigment name because all the paint companies use the same few manufacturers. It's like breakfast cereal, the generic is made at the same factory as the name brand. It's just a different box.
>>
>>98347632
Meh, they're not wearing fetish gear. Those whips are a reference to self cascading monks.
>>
>>98347642
Then why not make basic peon models?
>>
>>98347680
Nuns with whips is a pretty strong bdsm trope. Besides, it's them getting whipped by their dominatrixes, not them doing it themselves.
>>
>>98347748
Do you think chorf slavemasters whipping hobgoblins has a sexual element to it too?
>>
>>98347749
For me, it does.
>>
>>98347662
To be honest, goblin green also just works because people know how it looks like. Without prior knowledge, it's any green. Vallejo has camouflage green, Skorpion green and Luftwaffe camo green for example. You know it's green, but it says just as little as any modern gw green like mantis warrior green or castellan green or caliban green.
>>
>>98347749
(Half) naked women getting whipped by a dominant mommy with nun costume is somehow not sexual.
If you are gay, that's okay anon. But don't pretend this does not carry sexual implications .
>>
>>98347749
If we were chorfs, it might be.
>>
>>98347756
Actually goblin green is a historical color named after the British and German miners who mined cobalt and chromium who would come out of the mines covered in a green dust. They were called goblins and kobolts because they essentially lived in caves seeking the mineral cobalt. True fact.
>>
File: 20260714_115838.jpg (2.67 MB, 4000x3000)
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Absolutely soulless paintjob I just did after finding out my daughter isn't even mine.
>>
>>98347817
Cobalt is blue anon.
>>
>>98347859
that's rough buddy, be strong
>>
Is there a good way to efficiently apply a shade to a really big model (something vehicle-sized in this case)
Using a huge brush just tends to lead to the shade being absorbed into the brush
>>
>>98347883
Airbrush
>>
>>98347883
Airbrush. Otherwise, if you mean shading as in washes, then just use enamels or oils and do a pinwash.
>>
>>98347883
You can mix it with contrast/speedpaint medium to make if flow smoother with less stains.
>>
>>98347883
Crushed pastels or dry pigment applied with a soft makeup brush then varnished with a distant spray
>>
>>98347859
How many years did you raise her for?
Pour your feelings into your next model.
>>
>>98347863
Nope, cobalt oxide just like chromium oxide is green. Cobalt is modified to become blue. Cobalt(II) oxide is an inorganic compound that has been described as an olive-green[3] or gray[4] solid. is used extensively in the ceramics industry as an additive to create blue-colored glazes and enamels, as well as in the chemical industry for producing cobalt(II) salts. A related material is cobalt(II,III) oxide, a black solid with the formula Co3O4. Professional artist here.
>>
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Slowly chipping away at raptors. Pretty happy with how this glaive turned out.
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>>98347919
Sorry anon, but nobody called German miners goblins because of cobalt dust. Stop talking out of your ass.
>>
>>98347919
>Cobalt oxide
>Google it
It's blue.
>>
>/wip/ - chemistry and mineralogy
just shut the fuck up
>>
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>>98344387
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>>98347919
Post minis
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>>98347928
>>98347919
>>98347863
>>98347817
>>
>>98347987
In all seriousness, cobalt blue (CoAl2O4) is manufactured by combining cobalt (II) oxide and aluminium (III) oxide. It is blue.
There are 3 different kinds of cobalt oxide, cobalt(II) is olive green to grey, but is used to make blue pigment. I have no idea why some pictures are pink, it eludes me.
>>
>>98348017
>panickly clicked through all possible cobalt oxides options to try and make his point
jej
>>
>>98347919
nice job copy-pasting the wikipedia citations, by the way
>>
>>98348022
I just joined this discussion. These are me:>>98348024>>98348017>>98347987
>>
>>98348017
None of it is goblin green tho.
>>
File: kermitshrug.gif (3.9 MB, 638x500)
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>>98348056
No idea where that anon pulled his goblin/kobold story from, I think he made it up, or is misremembering something someone more informed told him.
>>
Not only that but that notion of orcs (and goblins) being green is a quite recent thing, so yes, that retard is completely full of Retard Brown shit.
>>
Wait until you guys learn the lore behind this one...
>>
>>98348090
Holy fuck they made a paint based on the best known Space Marines chapter??????????
>>
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>>98348090
Clearly the paint colour was based on the blue armour of the glorious Ultramarines™ (© Games Workshop, 1987).
>>
>>98348102
Makes sense. There is word bearers red and white scar too.
>>
>>98347926
From wikipedia. I wonder if professional artiata who work for marvel and dc comics know what they are talking about. Turns out yes they do. "The color was long thought to be due to the metal bismuth. Miners had long used the name kobold ore (German for goblin ore) for some of the blue pigment-producing minerals. " as i said cobalt is green in the wild, it's refined into a blue color. Got that? Good.
>>
Great, the professional artist schizo is back.
>>
>>98347928
Wrong, cobalt is green. It's refined into a blue. Learn chemistry. You'd be surprised how many colors we produce from conalt, cadmi7m, magnesium, and iron, all vastly different just by driving oxygen from them or adding some back in.
>>98348024
Yes, i use sources when people challenge ny authority, even though I'm literally a workd renowned expert on color myself for major corporations all over the world.
>>
There must be always a schizo on this thread, if one leaves another one will immediately take its place.
Sometimes they leave, and then return.
This is our curse, for we must endure an eternal influx of schizos. Always eternal, always changing.
For no anon can post in the same thread twice, of one hes not the same anon, nor the thread has the same schizos.
>>
Professional fartist who work for shartvel and dshit here
Uh oh, stinky
>>
>>98348056
>>98348069
Yes it is literally goblin green. In fact modern goblin green isn't. Modern goblin green is transparent and coller whereas the original is more drab and opaque. The modern is a prhalocyanin green, the original was cobalt and cadmium and chromium depending on the era of paint production. I matched the pigments myself. And that so called story is simply pigment history, something i know a lot about as an expert in color for marvel and dc doing comic book restorations for major comic books like golden age batmah, superman, and xmen etc.
>>
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>>98348369
> I'm literally a workd renowned expert on color myself for major corporations all over the world
>>
>>98348369
Professional Sperg-kun, please take your medication.
>>
>>98348384
Yes, i apologize about the tablet typing, i am not at my computer and I'm very sick so i am not careful right now to check my messages before submitting them.
>>
>>98348389
that's not the part that I was laughing at, buddy
>>
>>98348389
>I'm very sick
Yes, we can all agree on that.
>>
>>98348391
I'm literally dying fren. I go back to the doctor today. If you think that's funny that says a lot about you.
>>
>>98348351
Stop
Talking
Out
Of
Your
Ass
>>
>>98348389
Take your meds then.
>>
>>98348406
Being an expert adding to the discussion with genuine knowledge from my field of expertise isn't that. It's sharing information. Just because you can't be taught isn't my problem. It's yours.
>>
>>98348351
Goblin and kobold are not the same word, and one is not a translation for the other in German.
>>
>>98348420
If you can't read well that's a skill issue. Reread my statement.
>>
>>98348369
Enter cobalt to google and get your eyesight checked if that is green to you
>>
Stop giving him (you)s.
>>
Why do people recommend spray varnishing when using a brush only takes a minute at most? At least for most 28-30 mm miniatures. Especially more so if there's metallics you can skip. Am I doing something wrong? I just use Duncan's mix (AK Matt + Contrast Medium) > get it on my brush > apply it to areas. I don't do more than one pass beacuse I'm not sure how you would "know" you need to do it again if you hit every area. Nothing I've read says you need multiple passes.
>>
>>98348482
Thinner coat, smooth and quick. Same reasons why people use primer by can, and not by brush.
>>
I want to do some panel lining - usually I'll use a dark contrast paint that's a similar colour to my base coat but I don't have anything red.

Can I mix my base coat colour with black templar contrast paint + water to have a similar effect?
>>
File: cobalt.png (1.81 MB, 1024x1024)
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>>98348454
>>
holy shit who the fuck cares, you fucking aspies
>>
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maybe another piggy will distract them from slap fighting
>>
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>>98348557
Excellent job, anon; very classic!
>>
>>98348592
oink! (that's piggy orc for thank you)
>>
>>98348069
I believe the actual reason behind the name is that it's a pun on gosling green, a yellowish green that was used for the facings of 5th regiment of foot (Northumberland Fusiliers). As wargamers, they would have been familiar with it and the name is so similar to goblin the pun almost writes itself.
>>
>>98343878
The skin looks wonderful and I would like a sauce on that miniature and more muscle warrior women miniatures so I can disappoint my family.


I’ve posted before about warcolours’ nostalgia line and coat d’arms.
How are the metallic paints from cda?
Warcolours looks harder to get in Canada.
Did the recipes change when black hat sold them to battle zone?
>>
>>98348482
people who use brush on clear coat are in the same extra chromosome camp as people who use brush on primer. you freaks probably have gills and webbed feet.
>>
>>98347535
Nostalgia88 is still being sold though.
They’re in droppers last I checked.
>>98347538
Damn what went wrong with them? Is it just their regular colors and the inks, washes and metals are okay? I am >>98348639 anon and didn’t scroll up enough to see my posts. There were no (you)s because I had to clear cookies. Sorry.
>>
>>98348644
brush on primer is way more intensive than varnish thobeit
>>
>>98348482
>Duncan’s Ak contrast mix
Will this work for ak gloss varnish and with speedpaint medium and ak’s speedpaint medium too?
I already have those. But I still want to do the good old gloss and matte varnish layering.

Also is it better to varnish models before basing them? Or base first then varnish then put on static grass and tufts?
If I keep the coats thin there will be no “levitation” effect even if using a magnifying glass?
>>
>>98339358
>strawman the post
>>
>>98347506
I want a sculpt of THAT art, and I do NOT want GW to be the ones to do it, because that'll be dyke butch bullshit.
>>
>>98348656
>Damn what went wrong with them?
Havent used them personally but from the reviews it seems like they are indeed a very old formulation of hobby paints, meaning the coverage is awful.
They may have been good back in the day but seems like they cant hold a candle to the competition nowadays.
Im not gonna buy shitty paints just because they come in a pot I like.
>>
>>98348702
Fair enough.
I guess in a way the quality of the paints of the time have been preserved even if outdated by modern acrylic development improvements.
I think I’ll go message warcolours about where to buy their stuff in Canada then because my googling is poor.
Assuming they just mimic the colors but the coverage is better.
>>
So what you do overall?
>Glue mini pieces, then put prim on mini, then paint them ( I presume this is the way)
>Prim pieces, glue them, then pain mini
>Prim the pieces, paint them, then glue the mini to completion
>>
>>98348734
I do whatever makes the most sense with that individual model.
>>
>>98348734
Anyone who paints on a sprue is a psychopath
>>
>>98348482
Because it is simply easier to spray (with can or airbrush) properly thin and even layer of varnish. Plus, you need to watch out where varnish gathers and redistribute if needed, while having small window to do so before leaving brush marks.

>Duncan mix
Never again, already "frosted" large number of minis that way, despite applying as thin as possible with brush, literally just licking surface like that.
>>
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>>98348539
And somehow, this led to pic related.
>>
>>98348629
Thats a nice idea, but i doubt it, because they also had a "WAAARGH! Green" back then, as well as and Snakebite Leather. Both are clearly based on GW Fluff, and not anything from the outside.

In all fairness to the original statement, many paints back then were identifyable by their name, and without GW Fluff knowledge, but there were some exceptions of pure "fantasy" names for paints back then, just as there are now. Now there are just more of them, but every company does that.

One of my favourite reds is SZ Red by Vallejo. Whatever SZ even stands for.
>>
>>98348868
Sazabi red because mecha color line is supposed to be "optimised" for gunpla, but they likely cant directly name it after Sazabi due to legal reasons
>>
>>98348882
Thanks. So its the name of one of the robots. I have no clue about gunpla. But the naming then works kinda like GW does it with "blood angels red" or "khorne berzerker red" then.
>>
>>98348890
yeah, most of the mecha color line has generic names for paints, but Sz Red, Titan Blue and Titan dark blue are references to Gundam to make them more distinguishable to an average/beginner gunplafag for certain paintjobs
>>
>>98338141
Does any kind anon have stahly's swatch specifically for PA colours? The general swatch seems to be missing several of them.
>>
I've spent days sanding and buffing actual varnish to get a glass finish and it's a pain in the ass. I know you lazy faggots aren't french polishing your minis so I know they look like ass with visible brush marks.

>>98348760
you know you can paint before assembly but after cutting the parts off the sprue and doing clean up right?
>>
>>98347158
Here you go
>>
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>>98348847
>mfw my mother at some point threw away my whole collection and all I have left is just a pot I bought off ebay for 20 bucks
Hurts so much its unreal.
I wish I could buy empty hex pots.
>>
>>98349058
>those feet
WTF
>>
>>98349066
pervert.
>>
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how do I into sculpting?
I've always loved this little guy and I would love to see him with modern proportions.
>>
>>98349096
Plenty of tutorials out there, both free and paid.
Are you talking about digital or traditional?

For traditional you can use gs, milliput, apoxie, or whatever you prefer. Many people use polymeric clay that wont harden until baked.
For trad sculpting tutorials: Tom Mason

For digital, blender or zbrush.
Zbrush is industry standard but blender is incredibly good as well, and free.
For digital sculpting tutorials: FlippedNormals
>>
>>98349080
Mutants aren't allowed in the sororitas.
>>
>>98349119
Either way works but I figure digital sculpting would be a bit easier, at least for a full mini? I'll take a look at both channels, thank you.
>>
>>98349133
Digital is more convenient but trad is way more satisfying
For digital sculpting you'll need a drawing tablet (or an ipad), using a mouse wont be enough. Only for hard surface and inorganic stuff.
>>
>>98349119
At this point and for this specific user case, I wouldn't even mention Zbrush. Blender does most of the stuff anon will ever need just fine, and he won't have to dabble with retarded ass Zbrush UI.
>>
>>98349160
Just mentioned because its industry standard, but honestly for 99% of usecases Blender is enough.
>>
>>98349150
>using a mouse wont be enough.
That is subjective.
>>
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I need to really work on blending. I'm awful at flat panels.
>>
>>98349534
I really wish some company would release 1/144 scale models or something like that for Battletech. Miniatures are a bit too small for them.
>>
>>98349584
Me too. Having an actual fully detailed BT plastic kit is a dream of mine. Though 1/444 is still pretty smol, I think that for BT 1/72 would be fantastic. Atlas, for example, would be like 23cm.
>>
How tf does juli werra paint like that?
>>
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>>98349534
Unironically try oil paints. You can feather and feather to your heart's content
>>
>>98349901
ew, why does that battletech mini have pubes on it?
>>
>>98349910
Because I'm a retard and didn't cover it up while I let the paint cure
>>
>>98348539
>>98348454
Cobalt is green https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cobalt#/media/File:Kobalt_electrolytic_and_1cm3_cube.jpg
https://cfw51.rabbitloader.xyz/eyJjIjp0cnVlLCJoIjoidGllbmRhLnR0YW1heW8uY29tIiwidiI6MTk3NzkwODM0LCJyIjoxLCJpIjoiYWMzMTdhOGUtYjBhNy00ZDhkLWMzZTMtY2E3MjdjYWMyYjAwIn0/wp-content/uploads/2023/10/cobalt-green-scaled.jpg
Cobalt with aluminum oxide is blue. Learn to chemistry bro
>>
>>98349883
>juli werra
Watch your language. That is someone's grandmother.
>>
>>98349883
Large models, classical art background and decades of experience.
>>
>>98349901
did you rub this in your fucking pubes?
>>
Hey wip I saw these pics in another thread and I’m curious as to what size brushes or type of brush would be good for these kinds of black lines:
>>98349927
>>98349945
Or if there is some tool for painting mini eyes like a toothpick (just guessing) I’d like to know to try this out.
>>
>>98349976
yes
>>
How much do I thin my pro acryl white primer with Ak thinner/flow or Vallejo thinner/flow?
Every time I try I get bubble from clogging.

I have both Ak and Vallejo. I’ve read that Ak thinner/flow aid reacts differently to other brands and that Vallejo may be the most “universal” but I’m not sure.
>>
>>98350133
are you letting off on paint before you let off on air? if not you might be flooding the tip which will dry and clog
>>
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I am kinda losing my cool over here and need some help.
I was building my tank model kit and once it was time to assemble the tracks, one side came out absolutely perfect but on the other, I genuinely can't tell how or what happened, but I assume I accidentally added one track too many and it just didn't look and feel right. So I tried to disassemble it, but since it is superglued and very strongly so, I couldn't. So I was rattling it around, trying to get a knife inbetween, pulling and tearing it, and all the while I was genuinely getting more and more pissed off.
I managed to somehow remove two tracks which were just destroyed and replace them with a sisngular one that was leftover, but now all the angles from the tracks are wonky and I am pretty much ready to just throw the entire thing into the bin.
Question 1: Is there any way I can safely remove the superglue from the 4 dozen or so tracks without damaging them too much
Question 2: And I'll research it myself later, but what do you even do when a part of your model kit, like the tracks is fucked.
>>
>>98350220
>plastic kit
>superglue
Anon, but why? Use cement. Get Tamiya Extra Thin.
>Question 1: Is there any way I can safely remove the superglue from the 4 dozen or so tracks without damaging them too much
Get a superglue debonder, ideally of the same brand.
>but what do you even do when a part of your model kit, like the tracks is fucked.
Get a debonder, unfuck it. If it's fucked fucked, you can get replacement tracks, just google the name of the vehicle + scale + tracks. Workable tracks, if you wanna go really fancy.
>>
>>98350157
I’m not sure. It is not a brush like the traditional one. Gravity fed and held like a handgun.

I am interested in what the most fool proof easy white airbrush primer is. Doesn’t even have to be marketed for mini painters like us if the product is just as usable for mini painting.

Lastly if applied in thin glazes will I still have to worry about “tearing” contrast paints from citadel’s to Vallejo’s to Armypainter’s speedpaints?
Can they work for vehicles too? Which brand of contrast paints should I avoid as their quality isn’t good?
>>
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>>98350237
Nta but
Is there really a difference between the extra thin and quick setting version quality wise? Or is it just preference?
>>
>>98350263
Get extra thin, because that one is the best for scale models and minis alike. You can also later buy Tamiya Airbrush Cleaner, which is a much larger and cheaper bottle, to replace it once you run out (it's the same thing). And no, don't skip the first Extra Thin bottle, it's extremely handy with its little retractable brush applicator.
>>
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oh yeah, its painting time
>>
>>98350257
very nice. The hazard stripes on the cabling is a little weird to me though.
>>
>>98350252
For primers I've used Vallejo and Badger, both are good out of the bottle if you shake em well. It sounds like you're using a brush that doesn't have a double action trigger, though. Do you just pull the trigger and air and paint flows? It will be hard to get fine flow control if so. You could also try flow improver instead of thinner, but it'll really just be an experiment for what works best with your brush. If you're getting spattering you should adjust pressure and test again.
Contrasts tearing is usually because the layer didn't dry thoroughly. They work on vehicles but pooling will be more obvious and personally I would suggest trying to go with panel lining instead of contrast paints on large smooth surfaces like that. Look up preshading and see if you can build up interest on vehicles with that before you add your final glazes.
>>
>>98349983
nothing too small. those black lines are all along edges so anything that can do an edge highlight would be fine.
>>
>>98350292
Ate, fair enough. Felt weird leaving it black, but point taken.
>>
>>98350257
>>98350292
I feel like it should have been either the chainsword or the cable

good job though I know how annoying it is to paint those stripes on cables.
>>
>>98350370
Thanks!
I was considering liner or rigger or even disposable eyeliner brushes. I’m okay with better equivalents suggested.

Also a bit odd to ask but is there any point to glaze paints when speedpaints exist?
I never had much luck with glaze mediums.
>>
>>98350220

take it as fate and make a diorama with an engineer dude repairing the broken track.
>>
>>98350344
I just pull the trigger and paint is supposed to flow.
Are Vallejo’s thinners and flow improvers the most “universally compatible” for as many acrylic primers as possible?
>>
>>98349150
don't they have expensive 3d mice just for doing cad?
>>
>>98350651
You can sculpt just fine with your regular mouse. I do that and I make my living with 3D.
>>
Can wall spackle be used for diy terrain diorama making?
Like for miniatures with puddle bases attached to the legs I use the spackle to make things level then put actual texture paste over the dried spackle?

I remember a northstar magazine tutorial that used diy filler and I’m not sure if it is spackle they are talking about.
>>
>>98350669
if I only want to make tau parts is there any reason I can't do it in fusion 360?
>>
>>98350669
Damn son.
What’s the average rate for stl ready bits I’d like commissioned and what tutorials do you recommend for a complete beginner and what are your thoughts on freecad and blender because I’ve damned myself to use linux?

I actually really see 3d printing as amazing for miniature terrain making. You would think there would be more of it at the lgs but that isn’t the case. It annoys me.
>>
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started on gor rok, fuck me i don't like doing nmm on flat surfaces
>>
>>98350693
No idea about CAD shit. Blender entirely depends on your skill level. Beginner - just do the donut tutorial, at least the parts that apply to you. Beyond that, don't be afraid to shell out some actual money for tutorials. It's imo better to pay <$20 and have access to everything you need immediately, rather than spending six hours clicking through youtube clickbait.
Blender Studio Training is great because you are getting knowledge directly from people who make Blender and not some midwit from Youtube. IIRC they have a dedicated like three hours long tutorial specifically about 3D printing.
CGBoost is also good. But it really depends on what you are planning to do, really.

The knowledge base is vastly different for people who want to do hard surface, compared to, say, someone who wants to animate futa porn. The same applies to your tools. You will be using different tools, plugins, etc. for different jobs.

>>98350687
Do it in whatever makes the job done.
>>
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more
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>>98350779
Thanks!
Anymore premium proper no nonsense tutorials that even a tard can follow?
I don’t mind paying up.
>>
>>98350779
And lastly how are Gemini and chatgpt answers for blender questions? So I can save time if the premium tutorials don’t help or I need something oddly specific that I can’t find a tutorial to do?
>>
>>98350629
generally speaking you'd have "best results" matching brand to brand, but I've mixed all sorts of stuff with vallejo thinner and only had problems when i thinned it too much. avoid lacquer-based stuff and stick with acrylics because it's another whole material system to worry about.
mix thinner and paint in a separate cup. if you're getting lumps or strings use a strainer.
add a drop of flow improver to your airbrush cup, then add the paint mixture.
test on a plastic spoon and see what happens. if you get bad adhesion/streaking add more paint. if it's still clogging, add more thinner
>>
>>98350787
Blender Studio Training, it's great. Different skill levels and such, the subscription is basically just pay once and you have access to everything. They also have a lot of good free courses. That said, if you are starting, just go on youtube and do the donut tutorial.

>>98350793
AI and 3D generally don't really play along too well. You can get some alright info, but the sheer amount of hallucination models are shitting out is staggering. Though it might not be a bad idea for basic stuff.
>>
>>98350501
i've used glaze medium and speedpaints.

speedpaints are nice if you want a single layer of color ontop of something else.

glaze medium is useful because it lets you build up layer by layer, but since it's regular acrylic paint it dries quickly.

speedpaint can take a day to fully cure, while glaze medium can take 30 seconds. so you put down a layer of glaze, wait a minute or two for it to dry, then put another layer down on top of it(usually in a smaller area so you build up color density in smaller and smaller overlapping areas).
>>
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Is the result already too busy or should I add some warm shadows in here, with some dirt pigments and shits ?

>>98346735
Cool shit !
>>
>>98351174
no, do it
>>
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>>98338141
Anyone in europe knows a way to get some Pro Acryl alternative lids for cheap?
The product itself is like 6 eur, but I only see it sold in germany with like 18 eur delivery fees, fuck that.

Are there compatible off brand lids that are easier to source?
>>
>>98351174
looks fucking sick! is that a 3d print?
>>
>>98351276
Thx ! Nope, legit and one of the latest Chaos Space Marines character
>>
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im kinda happy with how it turned out but i srsly hope i will get better
>>
>>98351215
Any 20mm screwtop caps should work, I looked this up the other day.
Check out your local craft store, they might have something like picrel, otherwise you can just buy online.
>>
>>98351528(me)
these are better than the official alternate lids, btw
>>
>>98350220
throw it in the freezer, superglue breaks easier when very cold
so does plastic, dont lose your cool.
>>
>>98351215
Try caps from alcohol bottles or peroxide etc or
Ketchup or mustard bottles and such, most have universal threads
>>
>>98350220
>>98351746
This but you can also try soaking the track in 90% iso alcohol overnight. Then dry it off and see if any can be popped apart, if not, freeze it for 4-6 hrs. That should do it.
>>
>>98338462
I prep my colors into little squeezie bottles (complete with thinner and flow improver) and then just bust it out every time I need that color
it is definitely not price efficient but it cuts down the time investment for airbrushing by a lot
>>
>>98351432
Nice job with the base and added chain. Those minis are great
>>
I want to try contrast paints.
Do armypainter’s dropper caps have a cracking problem like old Vallejo droppers?
I went with Ak because their caps aren’t prone to cracking. I want to try their speedpaints too.
Both for thin glazing. Is the tearing before dry problem still a concern to remember even when using the inks in thin glazes?

>>98351528
Nta but do you know what the lids for their primers varnishes and newsh are sized at? I noticed a newsh bottle slightly pops up a little every time I close it so I had to put it in a zip lock bag.
>>
Want to go back to the hobby since long, and I spent 90 euros on Vallejo paints, and I need to spent 30 more to get some missing paints....But I heard of Army Painter Speed Paints....
Should I stick to Vallejo and try to paint my minis on a slower way? Or should I buy a SpeedPaint box, and see if the paints are worth it?
>>
>>98353187
>Nta but do you know what the lids for their primers varnishes and newsh are sized at?
I don't, but you could probably test it with one of your regular pro acryl bottle caps. If it fits on the newsh, then it's 20mm.
>>
>>98350970
Speedpaint 2.0 needs a day to dry and cure? I thought that problem was fixed? Do Vallejo and quick gen and contrast have this problem?

How long does say liquitex or daler rowney acrylic ink take to dry and cure fully if those are better options? Do they reactivate after drying? And is daler rowney black ink more “covering” than liquitex if I want to try calligraphy to exercise brush control better?
>>
>>98353187
>I went with Ak because their caps aren’t prone to cracking. I want to try their speedpaints too.
Just FYI, you can buy empty AK bottles from them directly. I use them to decant Citadel paints.
>>
>>98353188
all brands have some kind of speed/contrast paint now, buy whatever you have available/it's cheapest, i would avoid army painter like the plague for anything tho
>>
>>98353199
>from them directly
Shipping will screw over me as i reside in NA.
Also they’re sold out near me. Are they bulk Chinese caps? I searched once and turned up empty.
>decant citadel paints
I should do that for contrast paints if I buy some.
>>
>>98353205
>i would avoid army painter like the plague for anything tho
Based.

>>98353208
>Are they bulk Chinese caps?
Afaik no, they make them themselves. Anyway, my LGS also sells them, so you can check around.
>>
>>98353205
I’ve bought a good number of ap metallics and their washes and John Blanche sets so Blanche gets his royalties.
Haven’t had a problem but I get your point.
I’ve also been hesitant to even consider Vallejo stuff after the reformation. Their xpress colors probably bubble like a hot tub as much as people say their reformulated paints do now.
That leaves AK and citadel for me now.

Do AP speedpaints 2.0 have any problems worth keeping in mind?
>>
>>98340086
Noice. Good job, anon
>>
>>98353188
Speedpaints are just another tool tbdesu.
Give them a shot if you're willing to fork over the clams. Do look up some tutorials so you don't waste them.
I personally don't like to use them and prefer to just layer and glaze normally, but others swear by them.
>>
>>98353214
>make it themselves
I remember their cap stl being in their downloads I think.
You’d think some enterprising lad from China would take the stl and set things up by now.

Thanks anyways. If I bump into you at the lgs by pure coincidence I’ll probably lose my spaghetti.
>>
>>98353215
>so Blanche gets his royalties.
NTA but Blanche is dead and it was dubious he's getting any royalties in the first place.
>>
>>98353215
>I’ve bought a good number of ap metallics and their washes and John Blanche sets so Blanche gets his royalties.
it doesn't apply anymore in this case for obvious reasons, but if you want to support someone send them 10 bucks on paypal or something, any royalties they get be it youtube ads, sponsors, promotions, etc is peanuts, send them cash if you really care, you also avoid personality cult products that may or may not be half assed
even if the product is good, like a book something, pirate it if you can and send them half in cash instead of looping through middlemen
>>
>>98353226
>>98353251
I know now.
Wish I knew earlier.
Sorry anon-senpais.

But I saw a thread about painting styles and saw this cel shades look and wanted to try it so that’s why I’m on this posting about contrast paints and the alternatives.
I can’t really find a reliable comparison of them all to be honest.
>>
If I wanted to make stuff from cardboard, what's the best way to reinforce it?
>>
>>98353273
they work pretty much the same, several youtubers have 'reviewed' most if not all of them so you can check there
also check the stahly color swatch that should be in the ops mega, or here in web version
>https://taleofpainters.com/2023/11/top-tip-visual-comparison-of-all-61-contrast-23-speedpaints-24-gsw-dipping-inks/
>>
>>98353381
papercraft anon would know better but i'd do a coat of pva, with care, if you drench it it will warp, do some tests first

or ditch carboard and use foamed pvc (not the same thing as the usual plasticard or styrene sheets), it's (almost) as easy to cut as cardboard but it's a lot more durable, and you can get it in several thicknesses, it's soft so if you want perfectly clean surfaces it might be a problem
it might be called 'forex' depending on where you buy
>>
Does /wip/ approve of using nail art stamping plates and stamps as an alternative to transfer sheets? Thinking about giving it a try, but I don't want to splurge on a custom symbol plate only to find out it's shit.
>>
>>98353485
>does X approve of Y
What a retarded way of thinking.
>>
>>98353485
/wip/ here, I do not approve, freehanding or bust
>>
>>98353215
>Blanche mentioned
Are the paint tones from the sets really special? Or at the very least are their box art swatches good reference for blanchitsu or grimdark colors?
Is the secret just using drab historical military tank and aircraft colors or mixing grey in every colored paint?

>>98353446
I managed to miss it in the mega. So it isn’t there or if it is and I failed at finding it, it probably is out of date.
I’ve considered buying it. Just to save the German economy.
>>
>>98353518
>Is the secret just using drab historical military tank and aircraft colors or mixing grey in every colored paint?
The ""secret"" is artist's inks, slapping them on and letting them mix on the model.
>>
>>98353485
I would use it but I don’t know a reliable service in Canada so I can commission a stamping plate.
And then there is the problem of whether the stamping paints are harmful to acrylic layers.
Or whether regular acrylics can be used.
So far I only consider black or white stamping colors. Maybe yellow for stripes.
I’m not sure.
>>
>>98353518
>Are the paint tones from the sets really special?
No. AP used the sets to add darker vivid colors that were missing from the original range. They are not bad at all (apart from the usual AP fuckery), but I don't think they have much in common with Blanche.
>>
>>98353528
>Artists inks
It never was oils and enamels? I prefer daler rowney acrylic inks because their jars look harder to spill. But I did buy some liquitex to make ink washes because some of their stuff has more “coverage” for different results.

Are liquitex’s white inks more resistant when fully dry or are daler rowney’ more resistant?

I need to get a yellow ink to hopefully mix with yellow paint so I can have better covering yellow hopefully.
I’m unsure about the metal inks from liquitex or daler rowney however.
>>
>>98353547
What’s the usual persistent AP fuckery?
I’m practically settled on using Ak’s quick gen instead of ap speedpaints and splurging on Ak empty droppers to fill with gw contrast.

Also I know this is gonna be verboten.
I find paints preloaded with agitators to be a bad thing. The painter should decide if they want stainless steel or glass or no agitators inside the paints.
>>
>>98353558
>What’s the usual persistent AP fuckery?
The entire range is very desaturated. It is easily the worst range for airbrushing, and it gets obliterated when it even looks at white spirit/enamels/oils, even though acrylics shouldn't react with these at all.
It's not bad if you don't airbrush or use oils/enamels, but if you ever planning to do that, I would look elsewhere.
AK is imo a better choice, both the regular and quick gen.
>>
>>98353485
I have recently seen a video of a guy testing the minis-dedicated stamping plates made by the company of that creepy looking youtuber. They are nothing revolutionary, it's a decent sidegrade if for some reason you cant deal with transfers and are terrified of freehanding, but they come with their own set of limitations.
Also definitely dont spend hundreds on the hobby specific ones.

>>98353503
textbook autism taking everything literally and unable to process subtext, possibly low iq as well given the hostility
>>
>>98353550
>It never was oils and enamels?
As far as I'm aware, Blanche's (minipainting) style was mostly defined by his use of inks. I've never heard of him using oils/enamels (isn't that a recent development for minipainting anyways?), though there's always the chance that he did use them and I'm just not aware of it.
He specifically recommended artist's inks in a White Dwarf Blanchitsu article, though I don't remember which issue (I think it was one with some admech/cultmech conversions in the mid-late 2010s).
>>
>>98353581
>I was merely pretending
>>
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>>98353550
If you're after high coverage yellow you should check out bismuth vanadate yelow and diarylide yellow. soflat has the first and fluid has the second. I use a mix of both to freehand over black hoods on my night goblins.
>>
>>98353518
>I managed to miss it in the mega
>Wip tutorial images > Wip_Related_documents > 7-in-1
>>
>>98353597
>oils/enamels (isn't that a recent development for minipainting anyways?)
Oil paints have existed since the Middle Ages. Acrylics for model use have existed since the '70's, and they were mostly trash until the early 2000's. What do you think was being used in the '80's and '90's?
>hint: it wasn't citadel paints
>another hint: those instructions from that era about gw studio painters mixing 3 or 4 gw paints to make some special wet blend? they weren't actually using gw paints and that wasn't even possible with the acrylics available back then
>yet another hint: when blanche first got started as an artist, no one used acrylics
>>
>>98353536
>I would use it but I don’t know a reliable service in Canada so I can commission a stamping plate.
aliexpress
>And then there is the problem of whether the stamping paints are harmful to acrylic layers.
since you apply them half dried it shouldn't, you could varnish in between too
>Or whether regular acrylics can be used.
no, it has to be nail polish dedicated for that, any random nail polish won't work either

>>98353581
it's better than decals in the sense that you don't have to deal with decal borders and thickness, and conform to not-flat surfaces better, but if you want reliability or several colors they are shit
>>
>>98353597
I’ll try for blanchitsu without oils or enamels anyways.
I need to use my artist inks I used for washes anyways.
What’s the dropper cap size for those ink jars anyways? Some droppers seem to easily pop up when they shouldn’t so I might need replacements.
I fear those may have had some evaporation even when put in a ziplock bag.
>>98353605
Thanks anon!
>>
>inks mentioned
I put glass agitators in my artist acrylic ink jars that are also glass.
Was this a mistake?
>>
New thread:

>>98353835
>>98353835
>>98353835
>>
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>>98353458
Thanks for the info. Im currently working on making a Ghazghkull carrier/battlewagon and I wanted to add some armor plates so ot didn't look so plain. So I appreciate the help
>>
>>98353518
Drab is made by mixing in an opposite color from the color wheel, grey itself desaturates too strongly making a classical art appearance, not a military drab. For example mixing some reddish brown into green or vice versa makes a good drab, but mixing grey into green just makes it more neutral and cooler taking out the top notes. Professional artist here.
>>
>>98353666
I painted in the 80s and we did use gw paints, humbrol, testors, ral parta, etc, and a long forgotten company called Bon Artiste . Some were enamel, but some acrylic like ral parta, gw, bon artiste. Oil was usually only used on larger busts and canvas. Sometimes on large dragon sculptures or dinosaur models. Stuff like that where you wanted a semi gloss or a super smooth blend or wash. But enamel had the superior harder finish and dried better so the airbrush guys from military modeling which was the majority of all modeling back then preferred that. I still have my old paints. Professional artist here.
>>
>>98353597
We used both. Enamels were in common use. In fact acrylics were an innovation. Ral partha and gw and bon artiste were the primary acrylic companies. Testors and humbrol and tamiya i think were what most military enamel modeling guys used but we used whatever we had. I've still got my old paints.



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