Now we just need a pic of the LoS with a finished paint job for the trilogy.

Does anyone make decent mech minis at 28/35mm scale? I'm struggling to find something that would actually work on a grid for ttrpgs

>>98467836
I love how retarded this is. Good job.

What are some good search terms /places to find multi pose kits? I just want body parts (arms, legs, heads, etc) for kitbashing purposes.
Anyone have some favorite multipose kits? I am willing to spend money.

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Cultist.
printed 4 right hands, spaced on mirroring them.

>>98469741
i use multipose. what type are you looking for? Fantasy? historical? 40k?
If you're looking for fantasy, Vae Victis is my favorite, shit ton of bits if you get any of the guns for hire series, they throw in all the past sets arms

>>98470316
Any genre, vae victis looks like a good place to start, thanks!

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>>98467840
Soon anon, almost finished printing my wingmaxxing list with angron, bloodthirster and 3 flying dps. Just 2 units of flesh hounds to print then I'll paint him up.

>>98468456
Thanks anon me too, I chuckle sensibly every now and then when I see him :)

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>>98472097
Bit overwhelmed with shit to finish to be frank

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>>98472105
2nd naughty dread

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>>98472107
Maulerfiend, 2of his lasher tendrils got lost somewhere along the way :/ the final print after the flesh hounds will be the 2 missing tendrils, an instrument for second blood crusher squad, and a new face for angron. Then it's just painting for the foreseeable future. Actually really looking forward to painting. I have print and build fatigue.

I need to re-lube my resin printer. What do you recommend and where should I buy it? Figured I would ask here before going elsewhere. I truly am not sure what to do. I'm a software guy, I'm afraid physical stuff just catches fire if I touch it because it's happened before

>>98472115
1 of 2 dogsquads. Old dogs, new trix?

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>>98472789
Forgot the picture like a right spastic, I did

>old school fantasy group buy forming on channel

>>98473105
I bought into a group buy. It's been 3 weeks and I have no files. I might do a chargeback on my cc lol.

>>98472614
The z-screw?

>I have printed everything I wanted (at least for now)
>Now I have to paint that stuff
I now have to live with the consequences of my own greed and I regret my life choices

How do I know a fiverr is trustworthy? Do I just make the sculptor do a small test order then make the big ones?

Anybody got specific services to link?

>>98474148
it's great isnt it?
we both know you'll print more
a basing bit here, a topper there and suddenly a new army

Anybody ever digitally converted anvil arms from rifle stock to pistol grip by using their “multi-shell” function in blender by swapping the weapon bump stock and hands?
I want the Brodie trenchers to have pistol grip compatible arms but I’m curious to know how much of a hassle or how easy it will be.

Lastly there are a lot of cadian helmets using bad skull and wings and I’m wondering how to remove those while keeping the helmet curve intact or restoring it. Anybody know what method will make this get done?

>>98474313
No no, the resin printer goes back in the box for the year, the two liters of 60% off resin came and went in a month, the FDM one for terrain on the other hand....
Also I did 3d print myself basically two armies. 30 2e necron warriors 10 immortals and a lord, 18 tyranid warriors 2 retro carnifexes + swarmlord. And the best thing is I'm 100% going to buy models within the next six months because I'm a fucking pig

>>98474412
>anvil arms
I meant anvilindustry arms. Autocorrect may have got me.

>>98474148
In my first 48 hours of owning a printer I printed 6 months painting backlog.
You find a pace eventually, don't worry.

>>98474657
Is this natural for everyone?
How quickly did it take to learn and understand the proonter into using it being second nature?

>>98474148
Since I am paranoid about ventilation, I only print during the hottest summer days when I can keep a window open for my fan tunnel for the entire day. Thus I print for a few days each year and spend the rest of the year painting them.
Despite this I my backlog only continues to grow.

>>98474684
It's only natural baby. 24hrs.

>>98474684
Lychee does 80% for you, as you go you'll fine tune positioning and support settings to reduce scarring and learn when to add some manual supports after clicking auto or to remove some unnecessary extras, but that's minor, depends hpw fussy you are.

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This fat fuck took a whole week of trial and error.
First time magnetizing anything (I still need stronger smoll magnets for the arms)
I printed the cockpit door, the top thing, and the interior door like four times because while trying to make it moveable it either accidentally got glued together or while drilling for the magnets the resin broke.

But I am very happy with it. While printing the pilots I also printed a few Kroots

So why is this general just basically just Warhammer shit?

>>98475847
Not that many WW2 models to proont. RPG games generally take place on virtual tabletops or (at least in my case) whenever the games happen in person theater of the mind is used. In short warhammer is the main tabletop thing to print mostly because it's the current most popular tabletop game that also requires a shit ton of models that are unreasonably priced in 90% of the cases

>>98475847
Because Warhammer cucks are so buck broken by GW that they will do anything to keep playing Warhammer, even if they can't afford the models. These drones will hate GW with all their heart, swear to never give GW another dollar, but then spend their entire free time looking for loopholes to still keep playing GW games via pirating ,3d printing, etc.
Instead of just moving on to another game with better rules, cheaper models, etc. they simply cannot let go and escape the plantation, they will always exists in the periphery.

>>98475808
based coomer

>>98475889
lol nah, GW games are the only thing people want to play. And expensive. It's not rocket science.

>>98475889
>moving on to another game with better rules, cheaper models, etc
All competitors are trash with no playerbase, and/or no lore and/or gay models , feel free to prove me wrong.

>>98476102
Why would I waste my time proving anything to a dumb normie goyim

GW stuff is like a third of what I print, but I don't plan to play any GW games ever. I can use those in a dozen other games.

>>98476373
>I cant prove you wrong
ok

>>98476373
>Can't name a good, popular game to rival 40k

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>>98475847
Warhammer encompasses some of the most widespread wargames and is also a very popular IP, it's not even close. People are going to have their own reasons.

>Decorative bits or wargear choices that GW will never come up with or provide reliably
>The official models are expensive, so players may be saving money out of necessity or simply because they can
>For thirdies, the models may not even be available in their own country
>Not wanting to give GW any money out of spite, maybe due to fluff or crunch changes, but still like Fantasy or 40k
>They are already supporting another company's games with their own money
>Someone might live in a small town and the nearby LGS only really knows DnD + 40k or some shit, nobody is convinced to play anything else but they might want some verisimilitude
>Forge World

It's not really much different from people wanting to emulate Nintendo stuff, instead of buying a dedicated binger machine. Additionally, models intended for other games don't have anywhere as much trouble staying around compared to third-party 40k ones, and proonting is sometimes even the intended means to get official models in the hands of players. Not just like indie games, but also things like Warlord Games giving out STLs for a German superheavy to use in Konflikt '47.

>>98477127
>popular
Lol yes, mass market appeal, truly the mark of quality.

>>98475847
Because 40k is hot right now and given that there are only 9 or 10 regulars here that actually own printers and use them, we simply don’t have a large enough user base to represent anything else. The rest of this board’s traffic is unfortunately secondaries doing secondary shit and occasional curious newfren asking good faith questions.

You could of course print some non-40k stuff and post it here for discussion but I think we both know why that’s not going to happen.

>>98475847
Because warhammer 40k is the most popular wargame right now as far as I know. And gw’s prices and then after that there are third party stl accessories that make people look at 3d printers.
Even if you hate warhammer it is undeniable that Warhammer’s popularity is actually more of a blessing as it has accelerated miniature printing and enticed sculptors to give miniature stl making a go. Some of those proxy makers also dip their toes into non-warhammer related stuff and so the alternative wargames benefit in the end.

Currently scouting fiverr stl sculptors.
Haven’t found a good one as I’m not sure which use ai or which are genuinely good or what counts as a clean topology vs detailed model which jacks the price up.

But I am curious as to what digital services is best for storing commissioned stls if the sculptors don’t want their work reuploaded. Mmf/cults may be against reuploading fiverr commissions too.

I am gonna back my stuff up on external hdd but I also like a digital storage for commissioned stls too.

>>98480087
if you just want OC donut steel characters you know you can just learn an AI workflow that will shit out exactly what you want for free and with very minimal effort after you've learned the workflow

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>friend who is electrical engineer comes to pick me up for a night of drinking
>show him my new 3d printing setup
>complain how i always get this tingling sensation when i touch my printer or my computer case
>friend goes to his car and brings out his gear
>takes few measurements
>anon you better not touch this machine at all its constantly leaking over 100 volts because this old building has no grounding at all
>MFW apparently i inherited a deathtrap

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>>98480166
I am not sure how reliable tripoAI is but I do want to use it to archive stuff. If anybody has some steps and is able to type the instructions for maximizing getting it right from model pics every time at most angles I'd love to.

But I'm talking about commissioning specific bits. I don't know Blender very well and I'm not sure how easy it is for a complete newcomer to pick up and learn and I am unsure how reliable the chatgpt instructions are at communicating the answers so I don't end up going on an Indiana Jones treasure hunt for the right tutorial in a sea of ad money chasing clickbait.
I swear video tutorials have gotten worse in the last ten years.

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>>98477906
I made this /v/ thingy. Only second time I’ve used my airbrush so still learning.

>>98481076
What white and thinners/flow improvers did you use? I have trouble with airbrushes.
What airbrush and compressor too?
It looks pretty good.

>>98480467
jesus, it's a miracle you haven't died in the shower. Get some grounding on your outlets at least. Hepl, turn off the power and run a ground wire into a bucket of gravel if you need to.

>>98481112
Iwata Gravity Fed with Neo CN. It’s a starter kit that comes with the brush + compressor + 4 paints. I got it for like $180 I think. I use Tamiya paints, and just thin them with Tamiya’s laquer thinner. Some guy on YouTube just said to pour thinner up to the jars internal lip to thin it out, which has been working pretty well. I clean with windex and water. I only have experience with Tamiya white, black, red, blue, and yellow since my color theory is pretty good and I can usually get what I want from mixing those. Can’t speak to any of their finishes, as I just spray down with a can of acrylic friendly finishing spray. Thank you!

>>98481299
>windex and water
Is this mixed to a specific ratio? I don't think I've heard of this one.
Thanks for telling the brand and stuff. How beginner friendly is the set? I'm an airbrushlet that only messed around with cheap ones that I probably should never have bought in the first place.

>>98481318
>specific ratio
No, I mean more in sequence. When I want to swap colors or something, I just pour water in the pot to capture the remaining paint and spray it out. Then I pour some windex in there and spray it out as well. If there’s any paint smears left after that I get a paper towel damp with windex and wipe it off. Tamiya is alcohol based, so the alcohol in windex appears to be very good at cleaning it out. They make airbrush cleaning solutions, but I believe they’re basically just windex or whatever. That was another tip I read online somewhere. Some people also use all purpose Lysol, but windex has been working fine for me.
I’d recommend their spray out pot as well. Otherwise you’re just spraying into the air when you want to flush the cleaner. Isn’t a problem for water based acrylics from other brands, but Tamiya and windex are both a little fumy when they spray out.
I have found it completely braindead to use. The compressor has a single button to swap between on/off/low/medium/high pressure. The movement of the lever is smooth. It’s gravity fed so you don’t have to worry about pressure to push paint. It’s also dual action, so you can just spray air without opening the paint reservoir to get a sense of pressure. It also means you can spray just a little paint and get some good fine detail on the low setting.

Again, this is only the second time I’ve ever used it and I felt comfortable enough to do the black undercoat on Hornet’s cloak to get the shading. For context, I’ve also never brush painted before besides art class in elementary school. So I went from never painting to doing the diorama in 2ish sessions.

>>98477136
Ok, so what are those totally good and superior but for some reason really underground and unpopular indie tabletop miniature war games? Whenever you're ready clever man.

>>98481076
>not /tg/
>>>/v/ or >>>/lgbt/

>>98481610
Yah I know it’s not /tg/ that’s why I said it was /v/. You gonna call the mods little cry baby?

>>98481652
>call the mods
no but still going to call you a faggot, you faggot. thats fucking gay and your should be embarrassed posting that shit

>>98477906
damn this nigga was dead on autism patrol rolled up in record time
>>98481610

>>98481920
>If you don't like off topic bitches shitting up the thread it's autism

>>98467836
Does anyone have the commando jungle fighters from the purple site?

>>98482382
>posted 1 off topic image then talked to another anon about paint (relevant to thread)
your tantrum is more off topic and more disruptive than that 1 image

>>98483532
Why are you such a dishonest little cunt?
There were five off topic posts. This is not /wip/ this is not for videogames, this is not some generic 3d printing thread.

Read the fucking OP :
>...tabletop games only

>>98483610
>5 off topic
are the other 4 off topic posts in the thread with us right now?

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best way to print something like this?
The one time I wish i had an fdm printer. resin box makes it trickier
I'm considering just hollowing so its an empty box, then printing flat on the bed

>>98483610
This is some advanced autism

>gets called out for some painted off topic tranny shit print
>20 years later still mad
41% yourself freak

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Anybody know what methods can be used in blender to easily remove the wood markings on this 28mm scale AK rifle?
It is from anvil industry.

Speaking of anvilindustry. I am building a collection of 28mm weapons and resizing them to fit on the arms of models will be a bit of a hassle. What are the best practices for resizing the models to proportionally fit on anvil arms?

And lastly is it better to assemble the whole 28mm humanoid model in blender and save it as an stl to print or better to print in separate pieces and glue for later? Under what contexts warrant saying no or yes to this sort of thing?
>t. Haven’t got my resin yet still looking for beginner friendly and strong wargaming resin

>>98480166
I keep seeing people post shit like this. I never see them post links to actual fucking resources that would help someone learn such a workflow. "Google it" stopped being a fair response years ago since all search engines are enshittified garbage that will feed you a metric ton of listicles and garbage rather than what you actually asked for, and asking the accessible AIs to help you is now also pointless since they've all been castrated to ensure they don't teach you anything useful or controversial.

Put up or shut up, bitch.

>>98484084
yep:

>98481076
>98481112
>98481299
>98481318
>98481413

>98487195
unironically google it

>>98487147
Just use the smooth tool or flatten tool in blender, with 3pixel dyntopo

>>98487147
>t. Haven’t got my resin yet still looking for beginner friendly and strong wargaming resin
Sirayatech Fast Navy Grey and/or Sirayatech Tenacious

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Painted this pokemon a week ago but last night I noticed the bottom was leaking out. Yes it was hollowed but I forgot to add a drain hole.

I clean it up as best I could because it’s meant to be a gift. The inside is latticed but I had to crush it up a bit with a cotton swab dipped in alcohol to let the resin come out. I think most of it is out. I don’t want to throw it away though and even though I have a backup gift for said person I still want them to have this mini. Is there a way I can safely patch this hole up? A flat piece of green stuff or just glueing it onto a round base and letting the base do most of the cover up?

>>98487195
>waaa waaa
>spoon feed me

>>98488023
You could just admit you were spewing bullshit the whole time instead of engaging in this farce that everyone can see through.

>>98488038
Beg more, bitch.

>>98488013
it looks a small enough hole to plug with your dick, faggot

>>98488038
Admit you're too stupid to research things on your own you fat baby!

>>98488013
Go ask reddit you stupid niggerfaggot

3d printing?

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>>98490344
idk man it's like people come here just to be angry and insult each other for no reason when a few of us are actually posting prints and discussing the actualy hobby

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>>98490344
3d printing.
Love the customization

>>98490789
Vale Victis? Love that cauldron helmeted guy

>>98490799
yuh, vae victis skeletons 2 for the bodies, 1 for the arms. a cultist shield thrown in because i had it sitting around

>>98490720
No it's like dumb retarded faggots come and break the rules, cry about getting called out, then get reported for being off topic. Neck yourself

almost beginning to think adrian (aka /toy/tranny) is up to his old tricks again

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Working on a big ugly daemon head. Aiming to model Angron as just a super killy flying daemon, not so primarch-looking.

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>>98493915
some lazy eyeball tube sculpting and badabing badaboom he's done.

>>98487694
Thanks I’ll look into it. Any other methods like “filling” the wood marking “depressions” would be appreciated.
Then I do this shit when my pc gets back from repairs. For now I’m just collecting stls on phone and then storing them in an external hdd.
>>98487698
Thanks! That stuff looks expensive but hopefully it is worth it.
>>98490344
Do 3d sculpting and stl modification count?

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>find something I like
>locked behind monthly patron
>no longer being sold
Now I have to hope some Russian telegram spell it correctly so I can find the fucking stl

>>98496088
I think James is away or the gram so I’m now curious about the alternative that starts with an “s”.
What should it be nicknamed as hopefully with the answer in encryption?

>>98496110
Signal? I thought it was direct contact, similar to whatsapp before it added massive groups

>>98496134
I don’t know as I haven’t used it. I do debate changing my gram info like name to match my pisscord name so friend groups can move to it as a backup.
I don’t know how easy or hard it will be to get back into all the groups if I make a new gram account for the stls.
I hope a Russian webstore that sells stls has come about so scans and 3d fanworks can be hosted and sold and hopefully works with PayPal or whatever trustworthy payment processor as I don’t want to enter my credit card stuff into such a site for stls.

>>98487698
>Sirayatech Fast Navy Grey
>strong
>Sirayatech Tenacious
>beginner friendly

Would you motherfuckers at least try these goddamn meme resins before recommending them?

>>98498241
I’m the anon who got recommended these.
I think pics with time stamps of prints with the resin bottle in the background would help a lot.
Have you used those resins and are able to give an opinion backed up with experience by chance?

>>98498241
>>98498332
I recommended them, I use them all the time. They are beginner friendly and strong.
Fast Navy Grey is only too brittle for very tiny connections like 1mm or less I'd say. Other than that it is very strong but inflexible.
Sirayatech Tenacious is what I mix Fast with for tiny skinny bits. Both are good though.
You could listen to me , and the many people who recommend Sirayatech, or you could continue being paranoid and never buy any resin. The choice and the power is yours anon.

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>>98495646
>Any other methods like “filling” the wood marking “depressions” would be appreciated.
pic related is what I would do. Try enabling "Dyntopo" in the top right and set it's detail to 7px if your PC isn't highspec, or 3px if you have good GPU etc. If it is very unresponsive with Dyntopo then try without, I have had better results with it on.

>>98498608
Anon a pic is helpful if you really use it to make your claims more valid.
I’ve got my eye on the abs fast like metal grey.
Hopefully it cures to a matte finish.

This is no different than wanting someone to show proofs of an obscure painting technique with a pic with timestamp to show it works.

>>98495646
>Do 3d sculpting and stl modification count?
If it's for tabletop traditional games then I'd vote yes.

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>>98498638
Sure, these guys were pure Fast Navy Grey. No issues at all with anything snapping or feeling brittle, due to chunky oldschool style sculpts.

>>98498656
Thanks! This place gets infested with trolls so it pays to be paranoid here.
Will the abs fast resin be similar in quality? And does color matter beyond visuals? Metal grey looks closer to traditional hard plastic grey and I think it will make things easier for me to notice misprints or supports to be removed and sanded.
I have tamiya double cut basic files hopefully those are more than enough.

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>>98498656
>>98498638
These guys are something like 50/50 Fast and Tenacious, because of the tiny skinny swords of the bloodletters, and the tiny skinny claws of the dreadnought.

>>98498676
Since I’m a beginner I’m not sure about mixes.
How are the siraya resins on their own?
And are there any unique procedures to ensure minimizing misprints more related to the siraya resins than others just in case?

>>98498671
>Will the abs fast resin be similar in quality
Not sure as I haven't tried it.
>does color matter beyond visuals?
Yes, different colours of the same resin will have different recommended settings. You can see this on manufacturer's spec sheets and also in community resin profiles in Lychee for example.
I've only had issues with supports leaving nubs or craters with cheap resin. with Sirayatech with the correct settings the supports come away cleanly. Especially when mixing in Tenacious, they basically fall off the supports like slow cooked meat (in a good way lol).
>I have tamiya double cut basic files hopefully those are more than enough.
The Sirayatech resins I have used take sanding and drilling easily. Greenstuff, milliput, and cyanoacrylate glue all adhere very well.

>>98498701
Alright thanks. I’m gonna see if I can find a local shop selling the resin before online orders.
Any particular colors to avoid as I have a feeling there may be some bad colors across all brands. Navy grey seems to be a universal colored resin across all brands hopefully for a good reason that customers benefit from.

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>>98498689
Here's another pic with a Fast/Tenacious mix.

>Since I’m a beginner I’m not sure about mixes.
Honestly the mix doesn't seem to matter, I just eyeball it roughly 50/50.
As far as misprints, I had many issues with misprints using Sunlu and other cheap resins. Barely any with Sirayatech. Just use the correct settings for your resin and printer and have good supports. The only misprint I've had in a few months was my huge maulerfiend, and I'm sure it was just because I used auto supports and didn't take the time to go through and manually support the bits that looked like they could use extra.

>>98498709
I could only find it on Amazon, but it is direct from the manufacturer and shipping is fast.
Navy grey seems to be the most recommended so that's what I have used . Haven't tried any other colours.

>>98498714
One thing to note is I use the same settings for Fast alone and Fast+Navy mixtures. No issues so far.

>>98498332
No pics because I’m 2,437.438 miles from home right now, but we can revisit this here in a week if you’d like. In the meantime I’ll rely on my experiences and the reddit experts can chime in on what specifics they agree or disagree with.

>>98498608
So too brittle for miniatures that are gamed with, and the 1mm thing is awfully fucking generous if you’re curing by the manufacturer’s instructions.
>beginner friendly
Fast needs vat heating or third world temperatures to print properly. Tenacious is even worse about this and doesn’t handle details for shit to boot, but it’s plenty durable. This is not how I define beginner friendly.
>Sirayatech Tenacious is what I mix Fast with for tiny skinny bits.
Oh, so now we’re doing mixes now? Way to move the goalposts but you’re not wrong. I used to do this too until I got fed up with Fast being expensive and finicky and not bringing anything helpful to the party besides detail.
>and the many people who recommend Sirayatech
I’m not a Sirayatech hater. I’m currently using their easy tenacious until I’m out, and then I’ll be trying something else on a friend’s recommendation. It’s not perfect but it’s the best that I’ve tried so far, and unlike Fast or Tenacious with tropical unicorn temperature requirements that need to be supported like fuck or Uncle Jed’s custom blend, it just works and is reasonably strong to boot. The good people at Sirayatech finally started talking with miniature gamers and figured out that we don’t need 20k resolution or unbreakable blobs, but rather something in between. If the new recommendation doesn’t work out then I’ll be back to Tenacious Easy.

>>98498671
>This place gets infested with trolls so it pays to be paranoid here
Absolutely true. It also gets infested with shills, retards, thirdies, and noprintz that repeat things that they read or just make shit up.

>>98498714
>>98498721
>>98498755
Thanks!
>>98499145
I get your frustration. I’d love to see what you’re using and how good it is with pics in case sirayatech isn’t worth it when a better or equal quality resin of cheaper pricing exists.
I’m happy to pay a premium for the highest quality and easiest to work with stuff. That’s what I’ll do if siraya is genuinely the best for beginners and worth sticking with.

I think Anvilindustries uses sunlu abs like for their print on demand stuff.
So I’ve had that on my radar too.

>>98467836
the trannygram invite link in the FAQ has expired. Can someone give me a hand or do I just lurk moar?

>>98498755
Fast+Tenacious mixtures* sorry, eternally sleep deprived.

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>>98499145
>So too brittle for miniatures that are gamed with
Yes I'd say too brittle for models with spindly details that will be getting knocked about.
>Fast needs vat heating or third world temperatures to print properly.
Yes, I assume everyone would heat their resin and room for best results, regardless of resin.
>Tenacious Easy
Thanks anon I never heard of this until now. I'll try that next, just ran out of resin coincidentally.

I would amend my best recommendation to Fast+Tenacious mix purely on my own experience. With the caveat that you must heat your resin and room to between 20 - 30 degrees celcius. That's my own limited experience but it has worked for me, ymmv.

Anyway pic rel is that above kitbashed goat head for not-Angron. The frill neck (from a dinosaur guy) and goat demon head are Archvillain games. Lenses, nose ring and earrings are sculpted in 3D Builder and Blender.

>>98499145
>tropical temperatures
I've never had any heating problems with Siraya, but I wouldn't call my room temp tropical... are you printing somewhere where you see the aurora borealis on a regular basis?

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Anyone ever seen more than this re: 2nd Edition Cadian Shock Troops? They're excellent scans so I'm not complaining, I just wondered if the whole set was out there.

>>98501555
Those are some good scans.
I’m not sure what tools were used or how much effort it is to clean the scans of scanning “marks” to look like CAD sculpts.

>>98499229
>if siraya is genuinely the best for beginners
I don’t think that it is. Most of their resins are finicky. Tenacious is basically impossible to use for minis on its own, although you can blend it with other resins to make them less brittle (making it more finicky in the process, especially once you go past about 20% or so). Tenacious Easy is the easiest Sirayatech resin I’ve used so far in that it’ll print at room temperature without being massively over supported, but *only* if your settings are dialed in. All of them are expensive.

A *beginner’s* resin that I’d recommend is elegoo abs-like 3.0. It’s extremely tolerant of temperature variations, it’s far more forgiving of suboptimal settings, it captures details well enough, and it’s cheap. The only place where it shits the bed is that it’s brittle, which seems to be par for the course for cheap resin. For display pieces this doesn’t matter, but if you game with it on a regular basis you’re going to make repairs. It’s good to learn on though.
>when someone online is crowing about how durable their cheap resin is and how they game with it all the time, pay attention
>this person is lying, keep that in mind when they offer other opinions, which people like this invariably do for some reason

>>98499472
>I assume everyone would heat their resin and room for best result
Not everyone does, particularly when the manufacturer says that 68F is hot enough for best results. If the manufacturer had said that 100F is needed for best results, I would have heated it more. (Actually I would have used a different resin, which I ultimately did.). It’s pretty mediocre for something that costs that much AND needs special handling, which put me off Sirayatech for years until I tried the Easy.

Is there an stl maker who remade the current 40k tempestus scions faithfully or are there good scans that could be mistaken as original CAD files?
I am having an itch for them at the moment.

>>98502008
All fair points!

>>98501555
Yea the whole set does exist it's just behind a paywall by the cringe cartel who think they are actual gangsters as middle aged british men
>>98501970
I used blender's sculpting tools it's not hard at all, the actual tools have/are a lot better than they used to be a few years ago, much easier and lower performance demanding to just use blender than something like zbrush for this, although zbrush is a better tool

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Printed up some small marines.

>>98504404
Why'd you post two floating flags?

>>98505053
He's playing capture the flag obviously

>>98504373
>cringe cartel paywall
Can you explain this without buzzwords please anon, am curious

>>98504373
Why are you acting like a secret cartel agent yourself, say where it exists plainly. What are they gonna kill you?

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To the anon that posted up the STLs for the Catacombs of Terror minis, you've fulfilled a childhood dream.

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How 2 fix?
>>98504404
Are these the 6-8mm models scaled up? That's what I am printing or trying to sort out right now. They look sweet anon. Why no melee?

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Spent a good chunk of yesterday slicing up this monstrosity of a board game I made. It's huge. 1144mm x 559mm x 501mm (45"x20"x22") The core idea of the game is monkeys racing up a mountain to grab a golden banana and bring it back down. But other monkeys drop rocks to try and knock them off the trail. It was inspired by an old 90's board game called Tornado Rex: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ky5reqgy1W0

In that game, players were hiking up a mountain and trying to avoid this tazmanian devil-like character that was depicted by this spinning top. I love the physicality of the game, but I have zero interest in spending the $500+ that ebay sellers want for this game. That and my kids love the games I make. I still need to model the monkeys, banana, and the boulder, but the game board is going to take over a week and a half by itself on my Elegoo Neptune 3 Plus, so I figured I might as well get at this first.

>>98496088
I'm still salty that those necrons got taken down. For some fucking reason no one has the files for them either.

>>98506526
Yeah they're epics made bigger.
And the idea here is to have a simple but tactical mirror match, everyones got bolter andgrenades and that's it, at this size a 2'x3' board is equivalent to 4'x6' and I've got a dense load of very configurable terrain for them.
I'm not even going to use GW rules, I think the best option so far is OPR but I'm open to suggestions for something else.
I've gone with capture the flag because that encourages tactical play, although it could just as easily be a one flag game with a defend team and assault team or no flags and a deathmatch.

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>>98505756
Because they have threatened people with their own payment and personal info before and unironically consider themselves gangsters
>>98505910
>Why are you acting like a secret cartel agent yourself
Because I is......
I'm an agent of big smagga's mob and we're ZOGGIN krusin dem simple otha gangs

Has anyone tried making aluminum lost investment casts with pla for miniatures?

new. is there any actual source of the actual gw models out there? not necessarily asking for any of you to tell me where it is, just asking if such exist at all and if i should bother looking

>>98507808
Try to rephrase your question into intelligible English, please

>>98505979
Happy for you anon, glad I could help you accomplish that dream <3

>>98506646
You just unlocked a memory in me. A board game where you have to cross this bridge to an amazonian temple to collect these see through pink jewels and could get knocked off the bridge. Damn it was cool, can't remember the name. Look forward to seeing your game printed!

>>98507628
Anon, you are afraid of the men. It sounds like they are real gangsters :0

>>98509067
That'd be Forbidden Bridge. I have a copy of the Hasbro re-release that came out in 2017. It's not a good game...

I'm actually redoing this one, too. I did the math, this would be over 5kg of filament for the board alone, and I simply can't afford that right now. I'm going to change up the board and do something different. Need to figure it out, but I'll come up with something better.

>>98507648
I've done aluminum casts for homemade jewelry. Aluminum has a very low freeze temperature, which makes it tough to flow into the small spaces in a miniatures model. You'd have better luck with a zinc alloy like Zamek-13 or similar. It flows better into smaller voids, takes a while to properly solidify, and it produces good looking models in the process.

>>98509468
NTA but I was thinking about doing some battletech mechs in bronze with "lost wax" resin I've seen online.

>>98508304
no

>>98509453
That's the one! I can't remember how much it sucked I just remembered loving the little jewels.

>>98475889
>better rules, cheaper models
Name one game that does what Warhammer Fantasy does and meets these requirements, both better rules and cheaper models, because I'd love to play it. 40gay clones are a dime a dozen.

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>>98475889
Don't care, not paying 60 bucks for 3 kroxigors

>>98510582
Nta but define "better rules".
I'm asking because there's a couple of fantasy mass battle games I really from the 90's and late 80's but they're VERY crunchy.
But i understand crunch isn't necessarily an improvement for lots of people, and might actually be put off.
One of them has actually has a still existing line of miniatures and some of them are obscenely cheap. The other one's line might be technically OP but it was basically a miniature agnostic game long before people required to be told that they could use miniatures from any manufacturer

Similarly, i can easily think of a few more streamlined games. But simplicity may not be an improvement for you .
If you mean "better" as in popularity then yeah GW games are the undefeated champions. But that has less to do with the games themselves and more with GW's inertia, their massive decades long investment in physical locations and the fact that their miniatures have historically been very appealing.

>>98510582
NTA but WHFB has more clones than 40k, surely? Rank and Flank fantasy is quite popular and since GW likes to shit on their fans many of them went and made their own systems. Naturally they are model agnostic because of the proximity to historicals and tolkienesque fantasy models are everywhere.
>cheaper models
Basically any model maker is going to be cheaper than GW. WHFB is so easy to proxy accurately and anything weird or wonderful can easily be printed for 1/5th of the price you'd pay to GW or ebay.

>>98506671
Is there any other 2nd ed Necron biker boys? idk what they are called but they look sweet

Does anyone know (or have any examples) of bad scans painted up? I've got a metric fucktonne of bad scans of oldham and other stuff that looks good enough with the photo textures on it but they tend to have melty faces. I am sure if I was a good free hand painter I could make the models look the part but I am not. Just wondering if it its worth printing any.
>>98498656
I want these dudes

>>98509906
For a lot of the higher temp metals, you need what's called a vacuum mold and special investment to properly mold it. It helps pull the metal into the voids in the mold so you get the model to come out right. Such a setup starts around $500-700 USD for a used model and goes up from there in a hurry. There aren't really any home versions of the stuff, you're only looking at professional metal shop/artisan type hardware.

>>98510507
Yeah, my kids love the game. Me? not as much...

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>>98511723
>Does anyone know (or have any examples) of bad scans painted up?
I have some of those bit blurry old chaos champions and warriors resin printed but haven't gotten to painting them yet.
Here is one I did as test with FDM with my bad photo skills, so it's even worse. But I think it looks ok on the table.
Hope this helps.

Just came in to look for info on 3D printing. The OP guides are good and informative, but the buying guide is 2 1/2 years old and potentially out of date. Have there been any new printers worth mentioning?

The OP FAQ is real bad.

>>98512222
This looks rough but not really lacking in definition. I am talking about where there should be a face there's a flat plane, if you're lucky a raised seam for shape.
Looks sweet though, did you have to paint much detail on? If you did then you did a good job because its hard to tell what's paint and what is model.

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>>98512394
Thanks. Well, the goat(?) head's teeth were almost pretty much gone and the ribs on the horns weren't too good either, but still good enough to feel with your fingers. So those needed the paint, but with FDM I didn't have high expectations anyway.
I have the top one on this pic printed in resin, and those vertical ribs where the mouth would be are almost flat.If I had noticed how blurry these scans are I think I might would've not gotten them printed in resin at all, but it could also just be the guy's settings from whom I ordered. I hope painting will help them.

>>98512529
Thanks anon, I appreciate it. I think mines are not worth printing then, they are much worse and I am a worse painter.

>>98512222
This is fdm?

Honestly it looks more than ok to me. I can't tell with a zoomed in picture; i definitely wouldn't know on the table.

The old school painting style might help too while maybe a more realistic or contrast based paintjob would highlight defects.

>>98511419
>>98511692
>Doesn't name a better game
GW won

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>>98514017
Really the unfortunate reality is that Warhammer just wins on style. There is nothing like it. Everything else has to settle for either trying to stay generic, straight up ripping it off, or taking the daring and usually unsuccessful route of trying to invent something new. Warmachine nearly pulled it off at one point and botched the landing. Trench Crusade is trying way too hard to be edgy. OPR went with the straight up ripoff route and is now trying and failing to make something new. It's sad because I don't think I could make a worse game than the current edition of 40k if I tried. If I deliberately tried to make a bad game it would somehow end up more engaging and fun than 10th-11th edition 40k. The only reason it survives is from the coolness of its lore (which has been steadily getting worse for at least a decade), the models, and the complete ignorance of its players.

The Old World is an actually alright game at least, which is why there aren't many rank and flank games that are trying to compete in the fantasy space right now. They'll have to wait until GW inevitably fucks it up somehow.

I'm slowly learning blender and came across a short form video where somehow in zbrush, the guy was able to make a curved slice with dowel connectors, like in orca slicer but way more advanced. He replied to a comment and said blender should be able to do it but didnt give an add on name or anything. Is this possible in either program or was he just being gay?

>>98514017
fuck it, I'll bite.
At the very least we'll get some cool games mentioned.

>Crunchier than WHFB

>Fantasy Warriors. released in 1990, this was an attempt at creating a Warhammer killer. It obviously failed. But the game is a lot fun if a bit old school.

There's stuff like commander giving speeches before the battle for bonuses, priests performing rituals that could affect future turns, you keep track of the time of the day (with various things happening depending how bright or dark it is), you track ammunitions for certain units; there's very granular army building rules to include mercenaries and alliances between races.

The game has long been discontinued but the all the rules and supplements were released for free as PDFs several years ago and readily available online.
The game has a very vast range of armies, including fantasy staples as well as fictional versions of real historical forces.

While almost everything can be considered miniature agnostic, there is actually a line of dedicated miniatures still being produced.

The basic armies from its starter set (dwarfs and orcs) are available for literal pennies from EM4 miniatures; while the rest of the range is available from Mirliton and another UK distributor I can't recall.

>Battle System 2nd edition.
This is the grand daddy of mass fantasy wargaming.
Basically 2nd ed AD&D but turned into a mass combat miniature wargame. Truly a "kitchen sink" type of wargame/setting where you're limited only by what you can feasibly put on the table. It got rules for all sort of creatures, formations, spells, scenarios, missions, maneuvering, weather effects, environmental conditions etc...
This game is a commitment and a regular battle could easily take 6+ hours. Truly the crunchiest of crunchy games.
I don't think there's a fantasy game more miniature agnostic than this

>>98514517
>>98514017
>More streamlined than WHFB

>Kings of war.
Say what you want about Mantic and its miniatured, but Kings of War is a good wargame.
It's easy to grasp, it plays well, the rules are tight and the games flows without much interruptions, resulting in faster and punchier battles.

It was designed specifically to compete with Warhammer, and it feels like a modern tune up of an old engine.
The miniatures are admittedly hit or miss (although Mantic's latest releases are mostly solid), but most everything can be substituted with miniatures from elsewhere.

>OPR Regiments

It's WHFB-lite. I don't like it, but it's alright.

>War of the Ring.

I know it's still technically a GW game. But man what a game. If instead of abandoning it to the dogs and vultures this game was properly supported it could have replaced Warhammer, since LotR is much more palatable to the masses; in its own time it was also very well priced, despite being a GW game

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Anyone got a 28/32mm scale phantom drop ship from Halo? I’m getting into their bolt action fan rules

>>98514519
>>98514517
Noone plays these games.
I've never heard of anyone playing these games.
People play GW games, they used to play warmahordes but it died, there is some interest in SC2 mini game and that's it.
40k 11th edition is complicated enough to put off normies, anything crunchier is dead on arrival unless you have grog friends.
>Kings of War
Temu Warhammer is not better than real Warhammer.
Any of these non games might be playable but no one plays them. Probably because they aren't as cool, fun, populated or interesting as GW games. Sorry but it's that simple. There is a reason GW won, because it's the best.

>>98515124
non-GW games**

>>98515029
If you have TTS you can right click the model and copy paste the URL in the custom field and it will download it. Just make sure you detach the base first or it will try download that.

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I am struggling to get rid of these thin faces. Solidify adds more, decimate works well but seems to cap out and then cause issues once they geometry gets wonky. Dissolve faces works okay to but same thing as decimate.

>>98516972
Oh, I hate it when I get those, too...

>>98516972
Can't you replace them with new cylinder geometry?
If that's too much work, then do a voxel remesh at 0.05 and then decimate at 0.1, it won't be as low poly anymore and you'll have a perfectly watertight mesh.

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Hello;

I would appreciate recommendations for alien faction proxies - specifically unique lines that can be used as minor xenos for 40k/30k

>>98518538
Red Nebular - Ghyant
Oshounaminis - Deep Hive

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Is the Mars 4 noticeably better at printing small (6mm) minis than the Mars 5? Enough to make it better for a beginner to buy?

Asking because the only direct comparison on YouTube I could find was a heavily accented slav reading the specs from the Elegoo website

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>>98518226
They're all over the model and some of it is hellish to fix by hand. On most models I have got from cults.
>do a voxel remesh at 0.05 and then decimate at 0.1
I'll do that, i've been sitting messing with decimate, dissolve faces, remesh and STL repairer trying to get a process down that werks but it's been slow. Think that's cracked it. I am down to 119. Hopefully STL repair won't butcher it now.
Thanks anon.

Where to get (pirated or paid) good Roman late legionaries? With mail, not with lorica segmentata.

>>98519354
Wargames Atlantic?

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I scrapped the original map design as it would have required at least 4kg of filament. This new model is a fraction of the size, and I can print it on my Elegoo Neptune 3 Plus in 4 parts instead of 13. This one also cuts the drop chutes to 3, but puts the whole path in danger. I think this will work better overall.

Now to model the monkey and banana...

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So, want to print this figures, but the uploader just put a single big 3mf file with the full characters and with the sliced characters in one piece.
Which is the best way to separate them?
the slicer have a free cut tool, but if im on the "free space", it does nothing.

>>98520314
thats so simple. you just go fuck yourself with a rusty ax you toy faggot

>>98520314
Open with Microsoft 3d builder - > slice (keep both).
Or try opening with chitubox, might be able to select individual bits.

>>98520377
Couldn't at least keep it thematic to the subject?
A resin printed axe with out curing may have the same fatal and toxic effects.
>>98521053
May try that, thanks

Stupid question but what stl of the warhound do people swear by? 4th planet battle doggo has non-manifold edges but other ones I've found like ones in The File or the Grimdank torrent have weird scaling.

>>98523461
It isn't a stupid question.
I don't believe there is a warhound titan people swear by because for a true one to exist recasts have to be bought so they can be scaled next to them for maximum accuracy.
Some titans (including warhound) are rare even among recasters so this may not work.
Just take whatever you can get. Most seem like they are fine for printing with little problems if any exist.
>The File or Grimdank torrent
Damn son I never heard of those.
Are you in the new 3dpg yarhargram? Can you fill us in on some details that are also using the encryption here? I'm still looking for a website like purple site that host STLs that GW can't touch so I can support the scanners who do good work in archiving models. Especially the OOP ones. Maybe they'll get the money to buy recasts of the titan models to make good remakes of those.

>that one guy who uses
apple barrel on fdm prints

>Myminifactory has sale going on
B-bros.
My Tribes discount didn't stack on the MMF sale.
Is there a dedicated spot that shares WGA digital STLs? I know WGA took some off their MMF store.
Otherwise me wallet gonna hurt.

>>98524345
>sale
time to pad out the vae collection some more

second the wga, esp if you have the gone stuff

>>98524486
Really what STL makers deserve some money for their good work?
I would like suggestions, please.

>second the wga, esp if you have the gone stuff
I gotta evacuate my phone's files onto PC. Problem is my current PC is busted and the owner of the PC I'm using I share living space with is stingy about what gets downloaded to his PC from adblock to anything.
And winzip isn't opening.
So I can't inspect the STLs to see if I mislabeled some somehow or if they are shit.
But so far I know the Les Grognards cavalry got removed and the "The Damned" Stls got removed too. I would like those unsupported and supported.

There's also a cults3D that remakes warmachines from animes as STLs and the (last I checked) 2K priced Canadian money amount is a bit much to buy them all so I don't know any buygroups that are trustworthy or whether all of the guy's stuff has been archived.
To find these places one just is supposed to ask in the general chats of the respective sea sailing app channel, right?

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Anons I am in dire need of helpful means of finding or even being linked some STL file recreations of the 28mm human 40k imperial guard shoulderpads like pic related.
The plastic Krieg ones and the 2022 Cadian (with kneepad) shoulderpads.
Every search yields a sea of space marine shoulderpads and it hurts.

>>98524632
I have madrobotminiature shoulderpads. Those things go on nearly everything from MRM shoulderpads to AnvilIndustry and I think even the Kromlech Imperial Guard chainsword arms even though those have shoulderpads.
Is there any way to measure the concave, convex, and curvature aspect of those shoulderpads to remake them but in the shape of the Cadian shoulderpads?
AnvilIndustry has shoulderpads too and I think some in STL form, but I'm not sure if those will work as a starting point.

>>98475889
I know this is an alien concept to retards like you, but some of us still remember a time when you bought things and they were considered to be *yours*, not rented from a corporation.

The games I own are *mine* no matter who published the books, so why the fuck should I stop playing them because the publisher got greedy enough to make their newer product offputting?

The only cuck here is you, someone who'd give up something they enjoy because they can only play things that are Muh Actively Supported(tm), constantly spoonfed, and the thought of curating and managing your own hobby terrifies and confuses you.

>>98524620
Vae Victis, specifically their modular sets I find worth it. Especially since they give you all the arms for every for hire set with any buy. One set of army men gets you enough to make an army.
Twin Goddess Miniatures, are at least cheap enough and wife loves the cute style (enough to get her playing games) so they count in my book as well.
Print minis (if you like necromunda-stuff)
Westfalia has a great dark fantasy style that i love in my war bands.

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Where should I put supports on this guy? Gonna be printing 3 of him tomorrow in my buddy's Photon resign printer. I already sliced it in LycheeSlicer, but it said my model needed repair, and when I clicked to repair it, it said it couldn't be repaired. I don't know if Photon will automatically add supports or what. I have the photon file saved and ready to go. Watched a few videos. I hope I am not gonna be creating resin traps but I don't know how to do that at all.

niggerrrr

>>98528744
Watch more videos.
Better yet give the STL to your friend and let him handle file prep, you clearly don't know anyrhing.

>>98529234
He doesn't know how to do it either because he basically inherited the 3D printer and I'm the only one bothering to learn how to use it.

Is LycheeSlicer or Chitubox better?

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Okay I tried the autosupport tool with light to use a bit less plastic. Any of these I can delete?

>>98529632
tilt at 45 degrees first

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>>98529677
because of the bases?
Would I have to do it for pic related since it doesn't have base?

>>98529414
lychee is better, new chitubox is cancer.

>>98529632
>>98529683
don't worry about saving a tiny amount of resin from the supports, light supports should be fine for these, but you need to use as many as needed, not as few as possible. You'll generally get better results printing it at an angle since the layer lines won't be as visible. Resin has much smaller layer lines than FDM, but they are still there and you'll see them on flat things like the guns. The big flat base of the mini can also create too much suction and stick to the FEP instead of the build plate. Putting it at an angle eliminates this. Change the raft to pixelated or something else, it will be more reliable and easier to remove since there is a lip on the edge of it.

>>98529753
thanks anon

>>98529753
What's the thinnest I can go do you you think for supports on a Photon resin printer? I have 0.8mm rn. These are for 28mm figures. The bigger one is a "large sized" about 2 inches wide and 3-1/2 inches tall. I'm not worried about wasting plastic, more about the difficulty of getting them all off. My friend printed a scorpion robot mech for Lancer and i spent half an hour while we were playing with an exacto carving it up for him and still didn't finish.

Thank you very much for spoonfeeding me.

>>98529632
>>98529683
You should really tilt these, anon. You never want to print flat.

I'm not asking anyone to send me links or anything, just wanting to know:

Do there exist scans of modern 40k marine parts? I just wanted highly accurate shoulders so I could go on blender and sculpt my own custom decorations on them. Do some groups scan bits like shoulders and helmets?

I know there are recreations out there, but they're almost always different in shape in subtle ways. I know its autistic as hell to care, but do scans exist of various 40k/HH/CSM bits?

>>98530112
Should I tilt the big one too? It's on the verge of not fitting if I do. Maybe 15 degrees instead of 45? Or something?
But yeah I will tilt the soldeirs 45 degrees definitely.

Some of my STLs are supports only.
Seems they can't be deleted either in Blender so how do I delete supports from models so I can get the unsupported versions for digital kitbashing and maybe adjusting to better supports?

>>98525128
Unironically I checked mine and the design is deceptively simple. It just works. I fear MRM getting chapterhouse'd one day. I want to remake it's shoulderpads but again they're deceptively simple and I don't know what tools can measure the curvature and interior so I can recreate it in Blender.
I know my calipers can get me a width of the thing and that's it.
Why yes I never was good at math when it comes to 3D shape measuring. How could you lads tell?
Any genuine advice to help make this is appreciated. I even considered sending them to be scanned but I feel that would be insulting to the scanners.

>>98530121
There are whole scanning communities dedicated to buying the models then scanning them to varying levels of quality.
I am unsure if terms have been made to describe the more "scan artifact ridden" to scans that could be mistaken as the original CAD files if they were leaked or faithful painstakingly accurate remakes of the original thing.
I'd call the amateur ones "bumpy" from the artifacts and then the actually good scans that show no scan artifacts as "CAD-like" but I'm not sure what the terms are. I saw the word "clean" going around a bit, but sometimes even "clean" scans look artifact ridden. Are these artifacts going to appear on prints when printed?
I think VictoriaMiniatures scanned her resin models and digitally remastered them for STL releases. Hopefully she does that for all her resins.

>>98530121
No, of course nobody has ever even thought of scanning what's literally the most popular faction in 40k.

>>98530156
I use meshmixer for that, inspector tool, auto repair and seperate shells are what you're looking for.

>>98467836
Is resin the only way to print minis? I live with my family so I don't have space to safely use a resin printer

>>98532019
FDM does both big things and terrain well. Anything small is still functional from a tabletop standpoint but the quality will suffer.

>>98532225
Do keep in mind that, although not as toxic as resin, filament printing still carries its own health warnings and shouldn't be done in enclosed spaces where people usually are around.

>>98532265
>muh resin is dangerous!
Prove it.

>>98532672
If you drink a liter of resin, you will either die outright or at the very least suffer severe health consequences. Thus resin is dangerous.
Q.E.D.

>>98532672
not even drinking it. just pour some on your hand. many people have very bad reactions to it. Thats why you wear gloves.
I'll be frank, i dont even wear a respirator when i work with it, but i have a exhaust fan in the enclosure. i wouldn't trust it in my house, the shed is fine.

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>>98532733
If your immune system is that fucked you need to be weeded out of the gene pool, got about 7-8 billion excess people walking around.

>>98532692
Anecdotes, PROVE IT.

>>98533196
>2 drops
>no timestamp
pussy

>>98532672
Anecdotal but I know a guy who got throat cancer by working with resin for half a decade in improperly ventilated area.

>>98533244
I never wear gloves when taking prints off the plate or fishing debris out of the reservoir.
And look closely at the automated filename.

>>98533254
Anyone can edit that but a piece of paper with the current time and post number is a sure way to know that you aren't using someone else's picture.

>>98533283
Reverse image search it.

>>98533302
There are ways to spoof image searches, especially now that google image dove down the shitter.

>>98533487
Lmao.

>>98530236
>I am unsure if terms have been made to describe the more "scan artifact ridden" to scans that could be mistaken as the original CAD files if they were leaked or faithful painstakingly accurate remakes of the original thing.

Slang for stl scan quality probably already exists but not in English yet.
Maybe Russian.
Is it true that most warhammer model scans are being done by Russians? I thought the Chinese would be on this given the nature of recasters.

>>98532672
It's not just 3d printed resin. All resins contain solvents that are dangerous to breathe and can cause brain, eye, respiratory and other types of damage upon prolonged exposure without proper protection. It's not necessary to be afraid of it, but proper protection is always a good idea.
t. Working in art for 2 decades, have used resin and other chemicals regularly.

>>98534005
Most oldhammer scans are done by Spaniards.
Russians tenido to be easier to find (and leak) but the quality is inconsistent at best.

>>98534072
What proper protection helps then and how much in canadian joke money on average will I have to spend?

>>98534084
not the same Anon here
but something like an 3M-Mask with Filter for organic fumes is a must in my opinion. You can get one for like ~40€
Don´t know how mutch it is in Beaverdoller
If it´s possible, try to vent out the fumes (running printer) out of an window. It´s cheaper and has better protection. It can be done with just PC Parts and an ventilation hose.

>>98534072
Yeah use protexion.. I have accidentally gotten resin on my hands many times despite wearing gloves. Maybe my gloves are too porous.. I get red and scabby irritated spots where resin touched my skin. It's pretty hardcore

>>98534276
Pretty much that, plus nitrile gloves. I've got sensitive eyes, so lab goggles and tear drops are a must and an apron completes the look.

>>98533196
Based mutant / liar...

>>98534276
>PC parts
Damn you just re-triggered my desire to get a superfluous 15TB+ LTO tape drive for my normal storage use just because tape drives are cool. Maybe I can 3d print a tape drive enclosure (very on topic)

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>its another fag claiming resin is safe because they need attention episode

>>98534958
Prove it isn't.

>>98529924
i can't tell you what specifically will work on that printer and that resin. You'll need to do some test prints. If the supports are hard to remove, try using a heat gun or soaking the print in hot water to soften the resin. This makes getting supports off much easier. I prefer to use side cutters to get stubborn supports, cut them close to the base not close to the model. Then you can more easily break them away from the model.

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probably not the best example pic, but see the little tiny details on this backpack? Can resin printers print those on their own reliably? I'm talking like tiny little symbols, badges, thin trimmings and other such tiny pieces to decorate things? Something like a purity seal but even smaller.

>>98535670
I force fed my neighbour's dog a litre of uncured resin and it died. Because this is an insufficient sample size I waited until they replaced their dog with a new puppy and poured a second litre of uncured resin down it's throat, it also died. To confirm this wasn't a dog-specific allergy, I caught my neighbour's cat and force-fed it fully cured resin from my failed prints (I was running low on uncured resin). Results inconclusive, I've seen it wandering around since.

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>do first ever resin print today
>have to replace old FEP film
>previous owner had it still in there all scuffed up
>accidentally used the protective film for the FEP film instead of the FEP film
>set up print to run
>2 hours later see it's built about the model but then it broke off
>stop print, open printer
>try to move out tray, some resin seeps out
>have to scoop it back into bottle with plastic spoon because if I remove it it'll spill everywhere
>FEP film is ripped open
>several layers of resin now printed right onto the LCD screen
>spend like 2 hours cleaning it up
>even with 2 fans blowing out window I now have a slight sore throat
>all I have is a fucking severed foot
Is using the wrong FEP film the reason it went wrong? I don't think my supports were fucked up. Are there other reasons the printer could rip through the FEP film, even if I'd used the normal one? Should I use an old credit card to get the resin off the LCD screen?

>>98536271
You didn't try it on humans, literally zero evidence of harm, you insincere fag

>>98536322what do you mean by "the protective film for the FEP instead of the FEP"?
You can't just use any piece of plastic film and expect it to work the same as an FEP.
The FEP is meant to withstand high temperatures, as well as a lot of pulling force without deformation.
So yeah, it's probably your fault. Pray that no resin got inside the screen or other delicate parts and look for cured resin cleanup tutorials on YouTube.
Also, don't buy used printers, they're usually sold by brainlets who couldn't get them working and broke them in the process.

>>98536322
It has to be, bad supports can't result in FEPs tearing, at least to my knowledge. FEPs are really resilient, you can print 100 thousand layers and they're fine. When you put the fep on, check to see if its firm, and the pour some IPA in there and swish it around. That way you can notice if there are leaks. Other than that there's no reason it should tear as easily as you describe, can't have been the right sheet.
Also wear a mask dummy.

>>98536394
>"the protective film for the FEP instead of the FEP"?
I mean it said that there were 2 pieces in there. And each one had protective film around it. So instead of using the thicker plastic sheet, I accidentally installed the thinner plastic sheet meant to protect it.
>You can't just use any piece of plastic film and expect it to work the same as an FEP.
Exactly. I was a fucking retard and didn't realize I'd put on the wrong one. Fortunately the previous owner will be in town this weekend and can help me correct my fuckup.

However, I am really hoping I didn't permanently fuck up the printer by having resin seep through it. I spent 2 hours an half a roll of paper towels (I didn't even have any microfiber cloth, this wasn't even at my house, I wasn't expecting to fuck up this badly) and bottle of IPA cleaning it out as much as possible.

>>98536396
If I accidentally used the wrong piece of plastic though would that have caused it to fuck up? It wasn't leaking, it literally was torn through and there was resin attached to it in the middle. Almost like the resin ate through the plastic when it cured or something, cause it was the wrong type of plastic, because it was a protective sheet in the packaging for the actual FEP sheet.

Will a cloth mask help at all? Or do I need an actual respirator?

>>98536494
Yeah, FEP is not just any plastic. If you used something else, then you fucked up, easy as that.
Get a respirator, a good one. We've already seen you're at the far left end of the bell curve, so you're better off being as careful as you can.

>>98536535
But is that my only fuckup? And is what happened consistent with that? I just want to make sure before I try again and use the actual sheet this time like I am supposed to.

Is it possible the protective film that comes in the package with them, that is the same size roughly, and is also a sheet of clear plastic, but slightly thinner, was torn or dissolved by the resin?

>Get a respirator, a good one
Would this one be good?

https://www.amazon.com/Particulate-Multipurpose-Reusable-Respirator-65021H1-DC/dp/B002NMFLU2/

>>98536494
>If I accidentally used the wrong piece of plastic though would that have caused it to fuck up?
Yes, you used a flimsy piece of random plastic that wasn't meant for the job, nothing else could've done this. If the resin leaked into the motor you might be fucked.

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>>98524620
Vae Victis, DakkaDakka. I'd say highlands minis but they charge too much.

Pic related by Custom Miniature Maker (inspired name, I know) great prices and fun scatter terrain designs.

>>98536605
I habe the same respirator with P100 cartridges. It works great

>>98524620
joshqualtieri, iirc he has like ~15eur packs that are enough to start playing Quar. I think that's pretty neat
Vae was already mentioned.
natefeyma vehicles are great kits.
Trollet definitely deserves the money as well.
Imitation of Life Miniatures, mostly because of their 15mm stuff.
Maybe MOMminiatures, Monstreus Encounters and Highlands Minis.
I wanted to say Old Realm Forge, but they are just too pricey and I really hate when people don't communicate their tribe shit properly.
For terrain Forbidden Prints comes to mind.

Weird stl storage question.

I have an external ssd and hdd.
Should I keep both or wipe and then sell the ssd as I’ve read that if an hdd fails the data is still recoverable and easier for professionals to do so?

Hardware is expensive these days so the amount I could sell the ssd after having its data wiped to hopefully and unrecoverable state is tempting.

On the other hand there is wanting to make sure my stl collection remains safe and sound.

>>98537044
SSD life expectancy depends on the amount of data moved to and from the drive (ex: a 1 terabyte drive can be expected to move 600 TB of data before faults start to show up). As long as the data you're putting on the drive isn't moving anywhere on a regular basis I wouldn't worry about it.

>>98536941
ay IoL is great. in 28, i have the warlock and apprentice printed for frostgrave. the little golem that comes with is an extra treat.

i do hate in general, stls being overpriced because you're expected to just wait until a 50% sale. but thats gay

>>98536706
Ok I feel a lot better knowing that that's likely what happened. Lesson learned. I think the motor is clean. I wiped out as much of it as I could. I just need to get the rest of the cured stuff off of the LCD screen, will IPA and a credit card to scrape work?

>>98536369
I'm working my way up to it. My neighbours don't have a kid and I've been having trouble finding one unattended long enough to convince them to chug some gray undisclosed fluid. It's called the scientific method you knuckledragging troglodyte. You'd know that if you took your brother's cock out of your mouth long enough to drain the cum out of your blocked ears and eyes.

>>98537218
Where did you get that information? I want it to be true so I can have ease of mind. That my stl collection for 3d printing is safe. Also was my pondering of backups a smart choice or silly? Granted I can see myself accidentally copying extra copies onto one of the files so I need to learn of and stick with a proper method of file organization for my stls.

>>98539171
>I want it to be true so I can have ease of mind.
Eh, basically all commercial data storage solutions are pretty crap as far as long term reliability goes. Sure, some are even worse than others (I was lucky enough to be a Seagate fanboy back when IBM's "Deathstar" hard drives sold well...), but data you really, truly care about (so kinda silly for your stl hoarding) needs backups.

>>98539227
Alright then.
I bought a western digital elements 4tb.
Maybe I made a mistake but hdds supposedly are easier to get data recovered from than ssds. I’m not sure if that is still true.
If ssds can be factory erased so that data cannot be recovered then I’d consider selling it and buying another hdd.

But before that I need to get grey resin.
I saw sunlu mentioned and I’m not sure if the cleaning alcohol should be 70 percent or 99 percent especially when a wash and cure station is present.

Is there a website that just answers 3d resin printing questions and debunks myths?
How good are ai bots for sifting through the myths and giving me the facts to save me time?
It’s frustrating anon.

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what are your favourite stls (preferably bundles) for low level human adventurers? so like wizards, fighters, rogues, priests etc. but look like they're about level 1?

>>98539784
I don't have any but I would also be interested in this, especially for B/X type characters that are just regular dudes in leather armor

>>98539343
Get an LTO-9 tape drive. Only like 20,000 dollarydoos or so

>>98538682
Use the tank clean function

>>98536030
Lol yes. Injection molded plastic is inferior to 3d printed resin for detail.

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>>98539846
original anon here, found these guys. 50% off at myminifactory too.
still hoping for more, gonna be running some OSR games and I need a good pool of low level dudes for when PCs die.

>>98539886
But can you like, print JUST the surface details, as a thin little wafer (like a khorne symbol, chaos star etc) and have them come out OK and not instantly break? something I can safely glue on tiny details like arms, chest and belt-buckles and shit.

>>98538682
>I think the motor is clean
You'll know for sure if the Z screw starts seizing up over the next few prints. If that happens (now or in the future due to a resin spill down the Z screw, which will happen eventually), do not order a new motor assembly until you've checked the bearings. The motor has enough clearances for the resin to run right through it (you'll still want to clean it) but the bearings will tend to accumulate resin and seize up, especially the lower one. They're $7 for 10 on Amazon. The exact bearing model that you need will be stamped on the side of the old bearing, as they're sized to industry standards. Do not rely on internet advice for which one you need, it's almost all incorrect. Check the markings on the old bearing or measure it with calipers to determine the correct model. The Saturn 2 uses the 698ZZ if memory serves. You'll have to remove the entire motor assembly to get to them which is kind of a bitch, but you'd have to do that anyway if you were replacing the motor.
>yes, I recently went through this

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>>98539784
whats the stl for this? got a great vibe

My answer, although i hate to just shill one dude, is Vae Victis. A bunch of the modular bundles, or in the dark fantasy tab.

>>98539867
Will that work if there's resin cured onto the LCD screen?

>>98540020
Those are kinda cool but I was hoping for more sword&sorcery than LotR fellowship.

>>98540953
thank you anon, screencapping your post in case this happens.
what went wrong with yours?

>>98539784
https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/1889212233/older-miniatures-vol-i/description

>>98541109
>Will that work if there's resin cured onto the LCD screen?
NTA, but no. Get the resin off the screen. Sometimes a plastic scraper and IPA will work. A razor blade will always work but you need to be very careful.

>>98541109
>what went wrong with yours?
TA. Resin slopped out of the vat and made its way down the Z screw. With the Saturn 2, I fat fingered the build plate while removing it and dropped it in the vat. With the Saturn 3, I still have no idea how resin got down there. In both cases, replacing the bearings got the motors going again. Also in both cases, something else went wrong soon afterwards, but that's another topic for another time and I'm not in the mood to cut a promo on how these Chinese scumbags manage to sell their budget printers for so cheap. (Hint: if labor and shipping are fixed costs, the only way to cut costs is on materials.)

I'm using AnyCubic Photon Workshop to slice my models, and I've noticed the estimated time seems to vary wildly on the same scene. Like for my current plate the estimated time is 9 hours, but if I slightly move a single model and slice it again, the estimated time sometimes goes down to like 7 hours. How normal is this? Is it a bug in the software and I should just ignore the estimated time, or is it actually slicing the models into bigger chunks when it gives the lower time estimate?

>main 2 telegram groups got nuked last night
damn

>>98532225
Even with 2mm nozzle?

>>98543130
Well, with a 2mm nozzle "fine details" will be things like "you can distinguish the head form the torso".
With an 0.2mm nozzle details will be much better, and even sorta ok for tabletop, but look at them any closer and they're still way behind resin printing. For now at least.

>>98543130
>Even with 2mm nozzle?
Yes somewhat. Printing with the 2mm produces figures that work, more then enough for kids and to learn to paint on. That said closer then at arms length you will be able to tell its FDM. If you are making a art piece it makes sense to either go with recasts or resin, if you are making a game piece, FDM is more then enough to stand on your desk and collect dust.

>>98543130
You mean 0.2mm? The tells will be there, supports may still be involved, and it's going to be slow to print when resin can batch print entire squads in one go. If you're not doing comparatively big models, then for things like board games it should be fine, but I wouldn't use it as a backbone for say, Warhammer unless it was something like Imperial Knights.

>>98541685
Damn.... any way to check if the Z screw is clear without taking the printer apart?

>>98543161
>>98543167
>>98543206
I meant 0.2, but okay that's sad, the only place I have to put is my room, think I will go for FDM now until I find some way to put a resin one in my house

Can 70 percent alcohol be used to clean fresh prints with wash+cure station or does it have to be 99 percent?

>>98545044
its fine just not as good. just use metholated spirits its cheaper and pure.

>>98544129
Once you get the settings down, and if you're patient enough, you can hardly see layer lines under primer and paint, especially if being used on the tabletop. Some pieces I end up just paying someone off reddit to print in resin, but fdm is perfectly fine unless you want a bust to showcase painting skills

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Okay, here's an odd one. My old Saturn 2 was working fine until it wasn't and I've never seen this particular problem before. Google hasn't been helpful so I'll try here. To clarify what you're seeing in the photo, I was printing 25mm bases flat on the plate the way I've done many times before, but the 7 in the middle separated while the base layers were printing and two didn't stick to the build plate at all. Printing minis gives the same result, everything is fine except for what's in the problem areas. Both STL's tested have printed successfully on this printer in the past. This problem literally came out of nowhere. What I've tried so far:
>multiple stl's
>settings haven't changed
>fep replaced
>vat replaced
>plate leveled multiple times
>screen exposure test looks fine
Any ideas?

>>98545848
I know resin can act differently depending on humidity in the air. Maybe try fiddling with exposure time or maybe the burn in layers? I'm just spitballing here, but I have more failed prints during humid days.

>>98545848
Check your lift times, particularly on the base layers.
Making them longer will make it harder for your prints to stick to the FEP.

>>98544008
Kind of, depending on the printer. If it's an Elegoo, there will be a gap that the Z-screw passes through. It may or may not have a plastic piece covering it that's meant to keep resin out. Pop that piece out and shine a light inside. You'll be looking at the mounting plate that the stepper motor attaches to. If you see a film of resin on it, it's safe to assume that the resin got past it as well. At that point you remove the assembly, clean the motor and replace the bearings, or wait until you start getting print failures and do it then. Don't be surprised if your motor is full of metal shavings, but remove those too. This wasn't the resin's fault, it left the factory like that. These budget printer manufacturers give zero fucks about quality and build them just well enough to (usually) make it through the warranty period.

>>98547336
>>98547627
I might not be making myself clear. I've been using this printer, with this resin, and these settings, without any problems (that I didn't cause) for 2 years now, during all times of the year. Except for me fucking up the supports every once in a blue moon and getting resin in the motor, it just worked...until it didn't.
>climate
>settings
If these were the problem, I'd expect that it would affect the entire print area, not just one part of it. I'd also expect that it would have happened before. If someone had showed me this my first thought would be that the build plate isn't flat and that's something that I'm going to check today, but again, it was fine for two years and had no problems last week, so why would it not be flat this week? That's what's confusing me. I didn't change anything, so what changed?

my printer has been idle for a time and now nothing will stick to the PEI plate

>>98547775
how old is the current jug of resin and is it separating at all? How does the lcd screen look?

>>98547775
>it would affect the entire print area, not just one part of it.
That's why I'm suggesting looking at your lift speed. Large flat objects like bases create uneven pulling force on the FEP, in a way that inhibits uniform peeling. All of your failures are close to each other, which makes me think that they're creating some additional tension on the FEP, this tension then creates a tug of war with the lifting print plate where the plate ends up losing.
I had this happen to me for a while, also did everything, but only slowing the lift speed on the base layers fixed the issue.

>>98524632
I have scans of anything cadia related.

>>98548989
Can you please share them all via gofile with standard encryption please?
Also if you're in the new group, please share them there too.
Got the Tempestus Scions too?
One of my groups got hit. :(

>>98549018
I have literally all of what you asked for. Give me a second

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>>98548722
>how old
Bought it last month, and it was working fine last month. I don't think it's the resin.
>>>98548722
>lcd screen
Exposure test looks fine. Cleaning cycle works fine.

>>98548786
We're talking past one another. I've been using the same settings for two years. I've printed this STL successfully with them before, with the resin I'm currently using, on this very machine.

>>98524632
>>98548989
>>98549018
>>98549109
aHR0cHM6Ly9nb2ZpbGUuaW8vZC9pRkJYQ2ZyWQpodHRwczovL2dvZmlsZS5pby9kL1hzMlhIUTJCCgpUaGVyZSdzIGV2ZXJ5dGhpbmcgSSBoYXZlIG9mIHRoZSBjYWRpYW5zIGFuZCBteSBwZXJzb25hbCBtZXNobWl4ZWQgcGFydHMgZm9yIHByaW50aW5nIHRoZSBzY2lvbnMuIFRoZSBzY2lvbiBraXQgaW5jbHVkZXMgYWxsIG9mIHRoZSBzY2FubmVkIHBhcnRzIHBsdXMgc29tZSBhcnJhbmdlZCBwYXJ0cyBtYWRlIGJ5IG1lLiBUaGUgc2Npb24gcGFydHMgYXJlIDEwMCUgY29tcGF0aWJsZSB3aXRoIHRoZSByZWFsIGtpdCB0b28uIApHb29kIGx1Y2su

>>98549447
I love you and I'm thankful that you've posted these anon.
Is anyone else pissed that Microsoft didn't have a free built in 3D viewer in W11?
I am unsure if 3D printing with Linux is easy or not.

>>98549554
you're welcome, anon. enjoy
if you want anything else from the guard, I have scans of almost all of it