[a / b / c / d / e / f / g / gif / h / hr / k / m / o / p / s / t / u / v / vg / vm / vmg / vr / vrpg / vst / w / wg] [i / ic] [r9k / s4s / vip] [cm / hm / lgbt / y] [3 / aco / adv / an / bant / biz / cgl / ck / co / diy / fa / fit / gd / hc / his / int / jp / lit / mlp / mu / n / news / out / po / pol / pw / qst / sci / soc / sp / tg / toy / trv / tv / vp / vt / wsg / wsr / x / xs] [Settings] [Search] [Mobile] [Home]
Board
Settings Mobile Home
/tg/ - Traditional Games

Name
Spoiler?[]
Options
Comment
Verification
4chan Pass users can bypass this verification. [Learn More] [Login]
File[]
  • Please read the Rules and FAQ before posting.
  • Roll dice with "dice+numberdfaces" in the options field (without quotes).

08/21/20New boards added: /vrpg/, /vmg/, /vst/ and /vm/
05/04/17New trial board added: /bant/ - International/Random
10/04/16New board for 4chan Pass users: /vip/ - Very Important Posts
[Hide] [Show All]


Janitor acceptance emails will be sent out over the coming weeks. Make sure to check your spam folder!


[Advertise on 4chan]


File: neggurlurdervscurls.jpg (296 KB, 720x800)
296 KB JPG
This is a general for everything 3D printed relating to /tg/ from sci-fi, fantasy, historicals, fantasy football, and more! Share your printed minis, terrain, print fails, 3d modelling, printing advice, works in progress, or anything else /tg/-related to 3D printing.

>DO:
- Post pics of your prints be they fails or triumphs
- Keep discussion/photos about tabletop games only
- Post your resin/printer/settings for faster advice
- Help your fellow anons with advice

>TRY TO:
- Remember that this general is monitored by GWendolin and her lawyers
- Not make a new thread until old one dies
- Not encourage namefags, tripfags, fumefags and coomers
- Not spoonfeed
- Not war over Filament/Resin consoles
- Keep your model pics naked (no paint/undercoat only)
- Look after small artists/studios
- Buy something from or tip an artist/studio you like
- Read the last 3 threads before posting

>FAQ
https://pastebin.com/raw/Lv0vvd7d

>Resources
https://pastebin.com/raw/hmSJixAy

>Guides (Install 4ChanX script for better experience)
FDM Troubleshooter: https://pastebin.com/raw/H1en2ghM
Resin Troubleshooter: https://pastebin.com/raw/SbYWdMnC
Resin Safety: https://radtech.org/safe-handling-of-3d-printing-resins/
Printer Buying: https://pastebin.com/raw/1Kfib5YK

https://youtu.be/roAqm5c3rfU
https://youtu.be/koMNXvSlpSs
https://youtu.be/cjDpmh2NQMU
https://youtu.be/xS7h_5di3Tc
https://youtu.be/GL-9Ia0SibQ
https://youtu.be/xw_ClxnJ1_U
https://youtu.be/ZXJQ5vQG0ZA
https://youtu.be/bWUfshO17b8
https://youtu.be/cGAgyRVK32g
https://youtu.be/YMO4Va2vT3Q

Previous Thread: >>98391776
>>
Now we just need a pic of the LoS with a finished paint job for the trilogy.
>>
Does anyone make decent mech minis at 28/35mm scale? I'm struggling to find something that would actually work on a grid for ttrpgs
>>
>>98467836
I love how retarded this is. Good job.
>>
What are some good search terms /places to find multi pose kits? I just want body parts (arms, legs, heads, etc) for kitbashing purposes.
Anyone have some favorite multipose kits? I am willing to spend money.
>>
File: cults.jpg (1.17 MB, 4392x2192)
1.17 MB JPG
Cultist.
printed 4 right hands, spaced on mirroring them.

>>98469741
i use multipose. what type are you looking for? Fantasy? historical? 40k?
If you're looking for fantasy, Vae Victis is my favorite, shit ton of bits if you get any of the guns for hire series, they throw in all the past sets arms
>>
>>98470316
Any genre, vae victis looks like a good place to start, thanks!
>>
File: 20260808_150211.jpg (2.87 MB, 3814x2933)
2.87 MB JPG
>>98467840
Soon anon, almost finished printing my wingmaxxing list with angron, bloodthirster and 3 flying dps. Just 2 units of flesh hounds to print then I'll paint him up.

>>98468456
Thanks anon me too, I chuckle sensibly every now and then when I see him :)
>>
File: 20260808_150627.jpg (1.5 MB, 4000x2919)
1.5 MB JPG
>>98472097
Bit overwhelmed with shit to finish to be frank
>>
File: 20260808_150644.jpg (1.52 MB, 4000x2834)
1.52 MB JPG
>>98472105
2nd naughty dread
>>
File: 20260808_150651.jpg (1.64 MB, 4000x2917)
1.64 MB JPG
>>98472107
Maulerfiend, 2of his lasher tendrils got lost somewhere along the way :/ the final print after the flesh hounds will be the 2 missing tendrils, an instrument for second blood crusher squad, and a new face for angron. Then it's just painting for the foreseeable future. Actually really looking forward to painting. I have print and build fatigue.
>>
I need to re-lube my resin printer. What do you recommend and where should I buy it? Figured I would ask here before going elsewhere. I truly am not sure what to do. I'm a software guy, I'm afraid physical stuff just catches fire if I touch it because it's happened before
>>
>>98472115
1 of 2 dogsquads. Old dogs, new trix?
>>
File: 20260808_184029.jpg (2.42 MB, 3996x2757)
2.42 MB JPG
>>98472789
Forgot the picture like a right spastic, I did
>>
>old school fantasy group buy forming on channel
>>
>>98473105
I bought into a group buy. It's been 3 weeks and I have no files. I might do a chargeback on my cc lol.
>>
>>98472614
The z-screw?
>>
>I have printed everything I wanted (at least for now)
>Now I have to paint that stuff
I now have to live with the consequences of my own greed and I regret my life choices
>>
How do I know a fiverr is trustworthy? Do I just make the sculptor do a small test order then make the big ones?

Anybody got specific services to link?
>>
>>98474148
it's great isnt it?
we both know you'll print more
a basing bit here, a topper there and suddenly a new army
>>
Anybody ever digitally converted anvil arms from rifle stock to pistol grip by using their “multi-shell” function in blender by swapping the weapon bump stock and hands?
I want the Brodie trenchers to have pistol grip compatible arms but I’m curious to know how much of a hassle or how easy it will be.

Lastly there are a lot of cadian helmets using bad skull and wings and I’m wondering how to remove those while keeping the helmet curve intact or restoring it. Anybody know what method will make this get done?
>>
>>98474313
No no, the resin printer goes back in the box for the year, the two liters of 60% off resin came and went in a month, the FDM one for terrain on the other hand....
Also I did 3d print myself basically two armies. 30 2e necron warriors 10 immortals and a lord, 18 tyranid warriors 2 retro carnifexes + swarmlord. And the best thing is I'm 100% going to buy models within the next six months because I'm a fucking pig
>>
>>98474412
>anvil arms
I meant anvilindustry arms. Autocorrect may have got me.
>>
>>98474148
In my first 48 hours of owning a printer I printed 6 months painting backlog.
You find a pace eventually, don't worry.
>>
>>98474657
Is this natural for everyone?
How quickly did it take to learn and understand the proonter into using it being second nature?
>>
>>98474148
Since I am paranoid about ventilation, I only print during the hottest summer days when I can keep a window open for my fan tunnel for the entire day. Thus I print for a few days each year and spend the rest of the year painting them.
Despite this I my backlog only continues to grow.
>>
>>98474684
It's only natural baby. 24hrs.
>>
>>98474684
Lychee does 80% for you, as you go you'll fine tune positioning and support settings to reduce scarring and learn when to add some manual supports after clicking auto or to remove some unnecessary extras, but that's minor, depends hpw fussy you are.
>>
File: ghost.png (5.98 MB, 2868x1062)
5.98 MB PNG
This fat fuck took a whole week of trial and error.
First time magnetizing anything (I still need stronger smoll magnets for the arms)
I printed the cockpit door, the top thing, and the interior door like four times because while trying to make it moveable it either accidentally got glued together or while drilling for the magnets the resin broke.

But I am very happy with it. While printing the pilots I also printed a few Kroots
>>
So why is this general just basically just Warhammer shit?
>>
>>98475847
Not that many WW2 models to proont. RPG games generally take place on virtual tabletops or (at least in my case) whenever the games happen in person theater of the mind is used. In short warhammer is the main tabletop thing to print mostly because it's the current most popular tabletop game that also requires a shit ton of models that are unreasonably priced in 90% of the cases
>>
>>98475847
Because Warhammer cucks are so buck broken by GW that they will do anything to keep playing Warhammer, even if they can't afford the models. These drones will hate GW with all their heart, swear to never give GW another dollar, but then spend their entire free time looking for loopholes to still keep playing GW games via pirating ,3d printing, etc.
Instead of just moving on to another game with better rules, cheaper models, etc. they simply cannot let go and escape the plantation, they will always exists in the periphery.
>>
>>98475808
based coomer

>>98475889
lol nah, GW games are the only thing people want to play. And expensive. It's not rocket science.
>>
>>98475889
>moving on to another game with better rules, cheaper models, etc
All competitors are trash with no playerbase, and/or no lore and/or gay models , feel free to prove me wrong.
>>
>>98476102
Why would I waste my time proving anything to a dumb normie goyim
>>
GW stuff is like a third of what I print, but I don't plan to play any GW games ever. I can use those in a dozen other games.
>>
>>98476373
>I cant prove you wrong
ok
>>
>>98476373
>Can't name a good, popular game to rival 40k
>>
File: sorry for what.jpg (24 KB, 401x349)
24 KB JPG
>>98475847
Warhammer encompasses some of the most widespread wargames and is also a very popular IP, it's not even close. People are going to have their own reasons.

>Decorative bits or wargear choices that GW will never come up with or provide reliably
>The official models are expensive, so players may be saving money out of necessity or simply because they can
>For thirdies, the models may not even be available in their own country
>Not wanting to give GW any money out of spite, maybe due to fluff or crunch changes, but still like Fantasy or 40k
>They are already supporting another company's games with their own money
>Someone might live in a small town and the nearby LGS only really knows DnD + 40k or some shit, nobody is convinced to play anything else but they might want some verisimilitude
>Forge World

It's not really much different from people wanting to emulate Nintendo stuff, instead of buying a dedicated binger machine. Additionally, models intended for other games don't have anywhere as much trouble staying around compared to third-party 40k ones, and proonting is sometimes even the intended means to get official models in the hands of players. Not just like indie games, but also things like Warlord Games giving out STLs for a German superheavy to use in Konflikt '47.
>>
>>98477127
>popular
Lol yes, mass market appeal, truly the mark of quality.
>>
>>98475847
Because 40k is hot right now and given that there are only 9 or 10 regulars here that actually own printers and use them, we simply don’t have a large enough user base to represent anything else. The rest of this board’s traffic is unfortunately secondaries doing secondary shit and occasional curious newfren asking good faith questions.

You could of course print some non-40k stuff and post it here for discussion but I think we both know why that’s not going to happen.
>>
>>98475847
Because warhammer 40k is the most popular wargame right now as far as I know. And gw’s prices and then after that there are third party stl accessories that make people look at 3d printers.
Even if you hate warhammer it is undeniable that Warhammer’s popularity is actually more of a blessing as it has accelerated miniature printing and enticed sculptors to give miniature stl making a go. Some of those proxy makers also dip their toes into non-warhammer related stuff and so the alternative wargames benefit in the end.
>>
Currently scouting fiverr stl sculptors.
Haven’t found a good one as I’m not sure which use ai or which are genuinely good or what counts as a clean topology vs detailed model which jacks the price up.

But I am curious as to what digital services is best for storing commissioned stls if the sculptors don’t want their work reuploaded. Mmf/cults may be against reuploading fiverr commissions too.

I am gonna back my stuff up on external hdd but I also like a digital storage for commissioned stls too.
>>
>>98480087
if you just want OC donut steel characters you know you can just learn an AI workflow that will shit out exactly what you want for free and with very minimal effort after you've learned the workflow
>>
File: pikachu-shocks-ash.png (468 KB, 825x413)
468 KB PNG
>friend who is electrical engineer comes to pick me up for a night of drinking
>show him my new 3d printing setup
>complain how i always get this tingling sensation when i touch my printer or my computer case
>friend goes to his car and brings out his gear
>takes few measurements
>anon you better not touch this machine at all its constantly leaking over 100 volts because this old building has no grounding at all
>MFW apparently i inherited a deathtrap
>>
>>98480166
I am not sure how reliable tripoAI is but I do want to use it to archive stuff. If anybody has some steps and is able to type the instructions for maximizing getting it right from model pics every time at most angles I'd love to.

But I'm talking about commissioning specific bits. I don't know Blender very well and I'm not sure how easy it is for a complete newcomer to pick up and learn and I am unsure how reliable the chatgpt instructions are at communicating the answers so I don't end up going on an Indiana Jones treasure hunt for the right tutorial in a sea of ad money chasing clickbait.
I swear video tutorials have gotten worse in the last ten years.
>>
File: IMG_0379.jpg (2.56 MB, 4032x3024)
2.56 MB JPG
>>98477906
I made this /v/ thingy. Only second time I’ve used my airbrush so still learning.
>>
>>98481076
What white and thinners/flow improvers did you use? I have trouble with airbrushes.
What airbrush and compressor too?
It looks pretty good.
>>
>>98480467
jesus, it's a miracle you haven't died in the shower. Get some grounding on your outlets at least. Hepl, turn off the power and run a ground wire into a bucket of gravel if you need to.
>>
>>98481112
Iwata Gravity Fed with Neo CN. It’s a starter kit that comes with the brush + compressor + 4 paints. I got it for like $180 I think. I use Tamiya paints, and just thin them with Tamiya’s laquer thinner. Some guy on YouTube just said to pour thinner up to the jars internal lip to thin it out, which has been working pretty well. I clean with windex and water. I only have experience with Tamiya white, black, red, blue, and yellow since my color theory is pretty good and I can usually get what I want from mixing those. Can’t speak to any of their finishes, as I just spray down with a can of acrylic friendly finishing spray. Thank you!
>>
>>98481299
>windex and water
Is this mixed to a specific ratio? I don't think I've heard of this one.
Thanks for telling the brand and stuff. How beginner friendly is the set? I'm an airbrushlet that only messed around with cheap ones that I probably should never have bought in the first place.
>>
>>98481318
>specific ratio
No, I mean more in sequence. When I want to swap colors or something, I just pour water in the pot to capture the remaining paint and spray it out. Then I pour some windex in there and spray it out as well. If there’s any paint smears left after that I get a paper towel damp with windex and wipe it off. Tamiya is alcohol based, so the alcohol in windex appears to be very good at cleaning it out. They make airbrush cleaning solutions, but I believe they’re basically just windex or whatever. That was another tip I read online somewhere. Some people also use all purpose Lysol, but windex has been working fine for me.
I’d recommend their spray out pot as well. Otherwise you’re just spraying into the air when you want to flush the cleaner. Isn’t a problem for water based acrylics from other brands, but Tamiya and windex are both a little fumy when they spray out.
I have found it completely braindead to use. The compressor has a single button to swap between on/off/low/medium/high pressure. The movement of the lever is smooth. It’s gravity fed so you don’t have to worry about pressure to push paint. It’s also dual action, so you can just spray air without opening the paint reservoir to get a sense of pressure. It also means you can spray just a little paint and get some good fine detail on the low setting.

Again, this is only the second time I’ve ever used it and I felt comfortable enough to do the black undercoat on Hornet’s cloak to get the shading. For context, I’ve also never brush painted before besides art class in elementary school. So I went from never painting to doing the diorama in 2ish sessions.
>>
>>98477136
Ok, so what are those totally good and superior but for some reason really underground and unpopular indie tabletop miniature war games? Whenever you're ready clever man.
>>
>>98481076
>not /tg/
>>>/v/ or >>>/lgbt/
>>
>>98481610
Yah I know it’s not /tg/ that’s why I said it was /v/. You gonna call the mods little cry baby?
>>
>>98481652
>call the mods
no but still going to call you a faggot, you faggot. thats fucking gay and your should be embarrassed posting that shit
>>
>>98477906
damn this nigga was dead on autism patrol rolled up in record time
>>98481610
>>
>>98481920
>If you don't like off topic bitches shitting up the thread it's autism
>>
>>98467836
Does anyone have the commando jungle fighters from the purple site?
>>
>>98482382
>posted 1 off topic image then talked to another anon about paint (relevant to thread)
your tantrum is more off topic and more disruptive than that 1 image
>>
>>98483532
Why are you such a dishonest little cunt?
There were five off topic posts. This is not /wip/ this is not for videogames, this is not some generic 3d printing thread.

Read the fucking OP :
>...tabletop games only
>>
>>98483610
>5 off topic
are the other 4 off topic posts in the thread with us right now?
>>
best way to print something like this?
The one time I wish i had an fdm printer. resin box makes it trickier
I'm considering just hollowing so its an empty box, then printing flat on the bed
>>
>>98483610
This is some advanced autism
>>
>gets called out for some painted off topic tranny shit print
>20 years later still mad
41% yourself freak
>>
Anybody know what methods can be used in blender to easily remove the wood markings on this 28mm scale AK rifle?
It is from anvil industry.

Speaking of anvilindustry. I am building a collection of 28mm weapons and resizing them to fit on the arms of models will be a bit of a hassle. What are the best practices for resizing the models to proportionally fit on anvil arms?

And lastly is it better to assemble the whole 28mm humanoid model in blender and save it as an stl to print or better to print in separate pieces and glue for later? Under what contexts warrant saying no or yes to this sort of thing?
>t. Haven’t got my resin yet still looking for beginner friendly and strong wargaming resin
>>
>>98480166
I keep seeing people post shit like this. I never see them post links to actual fucking resources that would help someone learn such a workflow. "Google it" stopped being a fair response years ago since all search engines are enshittified garbage that will feed you a metric ton of listicles and garbage rather than what you actually asked for, and asking the accessible AIs to help you is now also pointless since they've all been castrated to ensure they don't teach you anything useful or controversial.

Put up or shut up, bitch.
>>
>>98484084
yep:

>98481076
>98481112
>98481299
>98481318
>98481413

>98487195
unironically google it
>>
>>98487147
Just use the smooth tool or flatten tool in blender, with 3pixel dyntopo
>>
>>98487147
>t. Haven’t got my resin yet still looking for beginner friendly and strong wargaming resin
Sirayatech Fast Navy Grey and/or Sirayatech Tenacious
>>
File: IMG_2288.jpg (307 KB, 894x1445)
307 KB JPG
Painted this pokemon a week ago but last night I noticed the bottom was leaking out. Yes it was hollowed but I forgot to add a drain hole.

I clean it up as best I could because it’s meant to be a gift. The inside is latticed but I had to crush it up a bit with a cotton swab dipped in alcohol to let the resin come out. I think most of it is out. I don’t want to throw it away though and even though I have a backup gift for said person I still want them to have this mini. Is there a way I can safely patch this hole up? A flat piece of green stuff or just glueing it onto a round base and letting the base do most of the cover up?
>>
>>98487195
>waaa waaa
>spoon feed me
>>
>>98488023
You could just admit you were spewing bullshit the whole time instead of engaging in this farce that everyone can see through.
>>
>>98488038
Beg more, bitch.
>>
>>98488013
it looks a small enough hole to plug with your dick, faggot
>>
>>98488038
Admit you're too stupid to research things on your own you fat baby!
>>
>>98488013
Go ask reddit you stupid niggerfaggot
>>
3d printing?
>>
File: gobbosniff.jpg (164 KB, 785x757)
164 KB JPG
>>98490344
idk man it's like people come here just to be angry and insult each other for no reason when a few of us are actually posting prints and discussing the actualy hobby
>>
File: armoredSkeletons.jpg (212 KB, 1737x827)
212 KB JPG
>>98490344
3d printing.
Love the customization
>>
>>98490789
Vale Victis? Love that cauldron helmeted guy
>>
>>98490799
yuh, vae victis skeletons 2 for the bodies, 1 for the arms. a cultist shield thrown in because i had it sitting around
>>
File: 761690.png (867 KB, 1981x1997)
867 KB PNG
>>98481920
So brainrotted zoomer babble but no prints? Color me surprised. Welcome to the general I guess. One more secondary is just a rounding error at this point.
>>
>>98490720
No it's like dumb retarded faggots come and break the rules, cry about getting called out, then get reported for being off topic. Neck yourself
>>
almost beginning to think adrian (aka /toy/tranny) is up to his old tricks again
>>
Working on a big ugly daemon head. Aiming to model Angron as just a super killy flying daemon, not so primarch-looking.
>>
>>98493915
some lazy eyeball tube sculpting and badabing badaboom he's done.
>>
>>98487694
Thanks I’ll look into it. Any other methods like “filling” the wood marking “depressions” would be appreciated.
Then I do this shit when my pc gets back from repairs. For now I’m just collecting stls on phone and then storing them in an external hdd.
>>98487698
Thanks! That stuff looks expensive but hopefully it is worth it.
>>98490344
Do 3d sculpting and stl modification count?
>>
>find something I like
>locked behind monthly patron
>no longer being sold
Now I have to hope some Russian telegram spell it correctly so I can find the fucking stl
>>
>>98496088
I think James is away or the gram so I’m now curious about the alternative that starts with an “s”.
What should it be nicknamed as hopefully with the answer in encryption?
>>
>>98496110
Signal? I thought it was direct contact, similar to whatsapp before it added massive groups
>>
>>98496134
I don’t know as I haven’t used it. I do debate changing my gram info like name to match my pisscord name so friend groups can move to it as a backup.
I don’t know how easy or hard it will be to get back into all the groups if I make a new gram account for the stls.
I hope a Russian webstore that sells stls has come about so scans and 3d fanworks can be hosted and sold and hopefully works with PayPal or whatever trustworthy payment processor as I don’t want to enter my credit card stuff into such a site for stls.
>>
>>98487698
>Sirayatech Fast Navy Grey
>strong
>Sirayatech Tenacious
>beginner friendly

Would you motherfuckers at least try these goddamn meme resins before recommending them?
>>
>>98498241
I’m the anon who got recommended these.
I think pics with time stamps of prints with the resin bottle in the background would help a lot.
Have you used those resins and are able to give an opinion backed up with experience by chance?
>>
>>98498241
>>98498332
I recommended them, I use them all the time. They are beginner friendly and strong.
Fast Navy Grey is only too brittle for very tiny connections like 1mm or less I'd say. Other than that it is very strong but inflexible.
Sirayatech Tenacious is what I mix Fast with for tiny skinny bits. Both are good though.
You could listen to me , and the many people who recommend Sirayatech, or you could continue being paranoid and never buy any resin. The choice and the power is yours anon.
>>
File: steps.png (140 KB, 1574x170)
140 KB PNG
>>98495646
>Any other methods like “filling” the wood marking “depressions” would be appreciated.
pic related is what I would do. Try enabling "Dyntopo" in the top right and set it's detail to 7px if your PC isn't highspec, or 3px if you have good GPU etc. If it is very unresponsive with Dyntopo then try without, I have had better results with it on.
>>
>>98498608
Anon a pic is helpful if you really use it to make your claims more valid.
I’ve got my eye on the abs fast like metal grey.
Hopefully it cures to a matte finish.

This is no different than wanting someone to show proofs of an obscure painting technique with a pic with timestamp to show it works.
>>
>>98495646
>Do 3d sculpting and stl modification count?
If it's for tabletop traditional games then I'd vote yes.
>>
File: rc167523423.jpg (3.31 MB, 4000x3000)
3.31 MB JPG
>>98498638
Sure, these guys were pure Fast Navy Grey. No issues at all with anything snapping or feeling brittle, due to chunky oldschool style sculpts.
>>
>>98498656
Thanks! This place gets infested with trolls so it pays to be paranoid here.
Will the abs fast resin be similar in quality? And does color matter beyond visuals? Metal grey looks closer to traditional hard plastic grey and I think it will make things easier for me to notice misprints or supports to be removed and sanded.
I have tamiya double cut basic files hopefully those are more than enough.
>>
File: 20260809_094753.jpg (2.35 MB, 4000x2496)
2.35 MB JPG
>>98498656
>>98498638
These guys are something like 50/50 Fast and Tenacious, because of the tiny skinny swords of the bloodletters, and the tiny skinny claws of the dreadnought.
>>
>>98498676
Since I’m a beginner I’m not sure about mixes.
How are the siraya resins on their own?
And are there any unique procedures to ensure minimizing misprints more related to the siraya resins than others just in case?
>>
>>98498671
>Will the abs fast resin be similar in quality
Not sure as I haven't tried it.
>does color matter beyond visuals?
Yes, different colours of the same resin will have different recommended settings. You can see this on manufacturer's spec sheets and also in community resin profiles in Lychee for example.
I've only had issues with supports leaving nubs or craters with cheap resin. with Sirayatech with the correct settings the supports come away cleanly. Especially when mixing in Tenacious, they basically fall off the supports like slow cooked meat (in a good way lol).
>I have tamiya double cut basic files hopefully those are more than enough.
The Sirayatech resins I have used take sanding and drilling easily. Greenstuff, milliput, and cyanoacrylate glue all adhere very well.
>>
>>98498701
Alright thanks. I’m gonna see if I can find a local shop selling the resin before online orders.
Any particular colors to avoid as I have a feeling there may be some bad colors across all brands. Navy grey seems to be a universal colored resin across all brands hopefully for a good reason that customers benefit from.
>>
File: IMG_20260707_005417.jpg (1.81 MB, 4080x3060)
1.81 MB JPG
>>98498689
Here's another pic with a Fast/Tenacious mix.

>Since I’m a beginner I’m not sure about mixes.
Honestly the mix doesn't seem to matter, I just eyeball it roughly 50/50.
As far as misprints, I had many issues with misprints using Sunlu and other cheap resins. Barely any with Sirayatech. Just use the correct settings for your resin and printer and have good supports. The only misprint I've had in a few months was my huge maulerfiend, and I'm sure it was just because I used auto supports and didn't take the time to go through and manually support the bits that looked like they could use extra.
>>
>>98498709
I could only find it on Amazon, but it is direct from the manufacturer and shipping is fast.
Navy grey seems to be the most recommended so that's what I have used . Haven't tried any other colours.
>>
>>98498714
One thing to note is I use the same settings for Fast alone and Fast+Navy mixtures. No issues so far.
>>
>>98498332
No pics because I’m 2,437.438 miles from home right now, but we can revisit this here in a week if you’d like. In the meantime I’ll rely on my experiences and the reddit experts can chime in on what specifics they agree or disagree with.

>>98498608
So too brittle for miniatures that are gamed with, and the 1mm thing is awfully fucking generous if you’re curing by the manufacturer’s instructions.
>beginner friendly
Fast needs vat heating or third world temperatures to print properly. Tenacious is even worse about this and doesn’t handle details for shit to boot, but it’s plenty durable. This is not how I define beginner friendly.
>Sirayatech Tenacious is what I mix Fast with for tiny skinny bits.
Oh, so now we’re doing mixes now? Way to move the goalposts but you’re not wrong. I used to do this too until I got fed up with Fast being expensive and finicky and not bringing anything helpful to the party besides detail.
>and the many people who recommend Sirayatech
I’m not a Sirayatech hater. I’m currently using their easy tenacious until I’m out, and then I’ll be trying something else on a friend’s recommendation. It’s not perfect but it’s the best that I’ve tried so far, and unlike Fast or Tenacious with tropical unicorn temperature requirements that need to be supported like fuck or Uncle Jed’s custom blend, it just works and is reasonably strong to boot. The good people at Sirayatech finally started talking with miniature gamers and figured out that we don’t need 20k resolution or unbreakable blobs, but rather something in between. If the new recommendation doesn’t work out then I’ll be back to Tenacious Easy.

>>98498671
>This place gets infested with trolls so it pays to be paranoid here
Absolutely true. It also gets infested with shills, retards, thirdies, and noprintz that repeat things that they read or just make shit up.
>>
>>98498714
>>98498721
>>98498755
Thanks!
>>98499145
I get your frustration. I’d love to see what you’re using and how good it is with pics in case sirayatech isn’t worth it when a better or equal quality resin of cheaper pricing exists.
I’m happy to pay a premium for the highest quality and easiest to work with stuff. That’s what I’ll do if siraya is genuinely the best for beginners and worth sticking with.

I think Anvilindustries uses sunlu abs like for their print on demand stuff.
So I’ve had that on my radar too.
>>
>>98467836
the trannygram invite link in the FAQ has expired. Can someone give me a hand or do I just lurk moar?
>>
>>98498755
Fast+Tenacious mixtures* sorry, eternally sleep deprived.
>>
File: goatgron.jpg (1.65 MB, 4000x1886)
1.65 MB JPG
>>98499145
>So too brittle for miniatures that are gamed with
Yes I'd say too brittle for models with spindly details that will be getting knocked about.
>Fast needs vat heating or third world temperatures to print properly.
Yes, I assume everyone would heat their resin and room for best results, regardless of resin.
>Tenacious Easy
Thanks anon I never heard of this until now. I'll try that next, just ran out of resin coincidentally.

I would amend my best recommendation to Fast+Tenacious mix purely on my own experience. With the caveat that you must heat your resin and room to between 20 - 30 degrees celcius. That's my own limited experience but it has worked for me, ymmv.

Anyway pic rel is that above kitbashed goat head for not-Angron. The frill neck (from a dinosaur guy) and goat demon head are Archvillain games. Lenses, nose ring and earrings are sculpted in 3D Builder and Blender.



[Advertise on 4chan]

Delete Post: [File Only] Style:
[Disable Mobile View / Use Desktop Site]

[Enable Mobile View / Use Mobile Site]

All trademarks and copyrights on this page are owned by their respective parties. Images uploaded are the responsibility of the Poster. Comments are owned by the Poster.