Work in Progress, "Scream Like an Antelope!" Edition>WIP Tutorial Images Megahttps://mega.nz/#F!TvQFCaLb!w8WZKCcOsTRasxrI0JWezw>Saint Duncan's "Six Things I Wish I Knew When I Started Painting"https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ufP8ka3KGno>Saint Duncan also explains thinning your paintshttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wxWgsqSf74s>Paint thinning 102https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sBDVPoNXyVI>4 EASY Chipping Tricks For Beginnershttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ku4comhKHJM>Decal Like a Prohttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SYKLiEW7p9c>How to Edge Highlighthttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KoRbYuAfbEk>How to use contrast style paintshttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IhholrozptI>How to Paint with Tremorshttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oqp76vAJu9g>Airbrush Priming and Thinninghttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jkntrSBvXxEhttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IGjBQzoukFghttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=00JVUxABe44https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AEqT_R41JX8>Every day, dreams to go to a better life>But they remain only dreamshttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=clmtfFg2WAE>Who's Johnny, she'd say, and smile in her special wayhttps://1d6chan.miraheze.org/wiki/JohnnyPrevious threads:>>98576947>>98557591>>98537820
Made good progress on this guy yesterday. Pretty much just have to do the sword, shoulderpad, and head.
It took a month and a half, but Wazdakka Gutsmek is finally done. Overall it took around 50~ hours (primarily due to needing to strip and repaint some pieces), but I am very happy with the end results. It was a great opportunity to practice freehand painting illustrations, continue work with my Harder & Steenbeck airbrush, and explore a new approach for doing Ork skin.I am definitely going back to some smaller units for a bit to give my joints a break.
>>98598142And here's an additional shot to show the size of the miniature.
>>98598142Pretty sick, the freehand looks good too. A few too many primary colors for my taste, would have dropped the blues.
>>98598274Thank you! I get where you're coming from with colors, but I'm personally a super big fan of them. I like treating my miniatures as, like, 'Saturday morning cartoon action figures' in a way. I enjoy vibrancy and everything visually popping.Now that I look at my previous upload on my desktop, I'm a bit salty that things are looking a little pixelated. I may need to adjust my PS Express settings on my phone for future reference to ensure exports remain crisp.
Bretonnia army progress. Thought on the mixed liveries for footmen?
>>98598478I like the vibrant colors, I just think there's one too many of them.Most people will be viewing these on their phone, don't sweat it.
>>98598541I'd have preferred them to be uniform, but maybe only history nerds care about that.
>ask about pro acryl beading up on pro acryl's own rattle primer here>shitpost argument started>ask on reddit>downvoted, blamed for it happening, posts about it not happening with my other paints get downvoted, other people posting about it happening get downvoted toomodern miniature painters are all massive faggots
>>98598729People on the internet are massive faggots, because there's no repercussions. Bring up this issue irl and they'll agree and sympathize like meek little lambs.
>>98598729I know it won't help you with your current question, but airbrush is the solution, anon. Rattle cans are retarded as fuck, pricy as fuck long term, too. Beyond some top shelf jap shit, it's not worth the money or effort.
>>98598762>airbrush primingNah, I want primer that doesn't scratch off with a light breeze
>>98598768Get a good primer then. VMS is pretty sturdy.Then again, such requirement makes no sense to me.
>>98598768You can run any primer through an airbrush anon, there's nothing magic about rattlecans.
>>98598768You can decant rattle can primer and then airbrush it. It's a common technique.
>>98596892>>98596900>>98596896This is why people tell you to buy kolinsky, for those small details.Synthetics lose their tip very easily very quickly, like others said it's not about the size it's about a perfect tip, even if the brush is small the tip will be big because it's fucked up.>>98598729It depends on the primer, firstly pro acryl primers kinda suck ass.Secondly while their paints are god tier they're already insanely thin so many primer colors just won't stick well.I'd avoid pro acryl and vallejo primers if working with pro acryl paints.
>>98598768You're gonna really upset the display model painters with this one
>>98598768Varnish?Also there's no difference between both besides that you're overspraying with the primer can, that's why it "sticks" better, there's more to it.You can get the exact same result but better applied with airbrush, you just have to put more.
>>98598802>what is varnishIt makes no sense for gaming either
how many threads in a row do we need before people stop claiming that a layer that's only touching paint can affect the interaction on a different layer between primer and plastic?
>>98599010as long as people feed the trolls they'll keep making the same posts
>another varnish spergoutJesus fucking Christ find another spergout topic at least god damn
Coworker gave me an occupied Japan tea cup so I'm giving him this in return
I ordered some drop-shipped natural sable brushes and will see if they perform better than synthetics. Supposedly real hair, but the listing didn't say what kind of animal it was from...
>>98598729pro acryl paints are thin and beady hth
instead of paying tons of money for made in china brushes why don't you just get a pet weasel and collect the hair it sheds to make your own?
>>98599456cute!
Not sure if this is the place to post this since it's technically WIP but; first time ever assembling and painting, camera takes away some of the color but fuck it, can't do much about it.Started with the gretchins so I wouldn't completely fuck up the boyz from the get go, using white primer because I wanted nice saturation and color, had many issues partially because of that but it's nice to see the progress between each mini.Would appreciate a r8/h8 please, tell me how dogshit they are and why, no holds barred I want to improve as much as I can
>>98599428>listing didn't say what kind of animal it was from A kolinksy sable, I assume? Or did the listing not mention the words "kolinsky" or "sable" at all?
>>98599833it was simply "natural hair," but other listings mentioned goat hair specifically. I should not have been shopping for hobby supplies at 2 am...
>>98599456Why not just paint with the weasel tail?
>>98600002so it can be goat, pig, squirrel, ox, pony, ferret, badger, mongoose... even horseor just a lie and it's plastic
>>98600222it's pretty easy to tell when it's plastic
>>98598793Nope, cans have organic solvents and other volatile compounds, acetates, acetones, and other harsher chemicals, not even close
>>98598827>Also there's no difference between bothwrong, look at the ingredients sometime
>>98599456Awesome, what country you in? can't do that in australia
>>98599833Siberian weasel is what you want which will be listed as "tobol kolinsky sable""kolinsky" by itself doesn't mean anything anymore.
I'm trying to sculpt the farseer on the left. I've kitbashed the helmet but I feel like it doesn't feel quite right. I tried adding the little anvil shape thing on the top of the helmet but that didn't really change things. Any advice?the farseer body and arms are just as a mockup, not going to use those
>>98601160tilt the side things to lean back along the slope of the helmet like they are in the art instead of straight up
>>98601160I think the "forehead" part of the helmet should merge with the "scalp" and sides of the helmet. Currently you've got a big line running around it that looks almost like a widow's peak, and it's a bit odd. You may also want to elongate the head a bit. It might also be a good idea to try to emulate all those flowing tassels around the torso, they seem important to the silhouette and flow of the model.
>>98601160You're missing the dented curve at the top and the general cone head shape should be bigger vertically, the eyes are vertically too big and should be slanted downwards as well.Also missing those dent holes? on his mask.
>>98601178(me)>>98601160picrel
finished some chips working on metals next
>>98601449Lovely stuff, you've made it look absolutely battered.
>>98601449Sick as awl hell my dude
Been working on snikrot
>>98601449what's with the bathroom tiles?
Is this okay for airbrushing?
>>98601620isn't the entire point of air brushing caring less about all the weather bullshit
>>98601620tf are you doing anon, plein air airbrushing?
>>98601629yeah, the whole point is that you can do it inside your climate controlled house, instead of having to go outside
>>98601261hmm yeah, that does stand out. I think I'll use this farseer helmet as a base instead of the corsair psyker helmet. Thanks!
>>98601620No, you need around 1500 hPa and 100% humidity.
>>98598085Shoulderpad and a few other areas I missed done. Anyone have any good tutorials for swords/nmm steel?
>>98598541>>98598709As a history nerd, smaller battle formations would often have very mixed liveries. Each full knight was supposed to bring a mounted cavalryman, a few archers or crossbowmen, and some billmen or other footmen as his own personal contribution (AKA a "lance"), then those guys would be combined into larger forces once the muster was complete. If anything the way all the bowmen are in very plain clothes and only a few of the footmen's livery is clearly matching one of the nights are what'd bother me. >>98599010Because a complete, cohesive shell of plastic on top of everything is a fuckload more durable than hundreds of sheets of bound pigment butting up against each other and never given a chance to reactivate each other for better adhesion.
>>98601629Too low or too high humidity still can fuck up your paint job
Do premium airbrush compressors actually stay alive after 2 years of use?
>>98601160The farseer in the art has his legs close together, teetering backwards with his clothes being whipped tightly around his body. It's slender and menacing. Even the sword is contributing to the lean. The rune armor on the skirt tapers out, then back inwards and the chest is a sharp arrow shape (emphasizing the slender waist) while yours is a different rune, fat in the waist and tapering into a diamond that makes the model look thicker in the center. The wraithbone charms on the wrist and the right sleeve are both flaring in a different direction than the cloak and charms on the waist, which undermines the sense of flow in the original art. Same goes for the flat, even sleeve shape on both sides; they're just hanging there, not being whipped around by eldritch windsCombine that with his power stance and the helmet issues, and the whole model looks more like he's dropping a microphone and walking away instead of teetering on a precipice of his own damnation, channelling Hell itself to rip an enemy squad in half...also the collars on the cloak and its silhouette says "ranger" more than "Farseer", but that's as may be.
>>98601864>premium airbrush compressor AKA: any decent air compressor.>Do premium airbrush compressors actually stay alive after 2 years of use?Yes.
>>98601870Christ man this isn't even true, iwata and sparmax manufacture theirs in Taiwan while all the rest no name brands come from the same factory in china which are designed to be cheap and fall apart after 2 years
>>98601893Any decent air compressor should last much longer than 2 years. >all the rest no name brands...Hold up there, those are not the compressors we are talking about. >"Does nice jewellery last more than 2 years?">>"Yes">"Uhm but actually cheap market jewellery tends to fall apart after 2 years" That's what you sound like.
>>98601893the noname 80 dollar tank compressor I got off amazon in 2022 has been working the same with zero maintenanceeven if the moisture trap can't fully empty and I could never figure out how to remove the cup to manually empty it
so airless compressors provide a smoother finish but are more expensive?
>>98601905You're lucky I guess, mine is leaking after 1 year
works on my machine
>>98599428>>98600002>>98600222they arrived sooner than expected... They weren't just dropshipped mystery brushes, but counterfeits as well. And plastic. Still less than I'd have paid for shitty nylon brushes at the local craft and hobby stores, so they will get used and then thrown out as soon as they start to hook.after some digging>online listing goes out of its way to not list any brand>packaging has a registered trademark of a known brand>no copyright date, website URL, and packaging seems too cheap>and the real brand's site says they sell a set exactly like that, and that their brushes sets cost three times more, and a few other details about the product are wrong>pic relatedmoral of the story: you get what you pay for>>98601905I bought a noname 3.0L tank compressor in 2016 and it's still working.>no branding at all, just "MODEL NO TC-20T">searching the model number returns dozens/hundreds of images of the exact same compressor with different brand stickers on itI use it for more than just airbrushing.
slowly realizing that I will have to into big boy painting if I want to do cool freehands on my toy soldiers
>>98601936ask for a refund and keep them anyways
>>98601160>I've kitbashed the helmetYou got stl's for warhammer models? You wouldn't happen to have deldar helmets?
>>98601850Those would have to be some extremely small time knights if all they brought was like 5 footmen. They don't look at that poor.
>>98599456Can I use cat fur?
>>98602211sure, can you craft a paintbrush well enough? unlikely, would it be any good if you could? also unlikelythere's also a lot of variation between cat breeds
>>98601850imagine you are making a lego mosaic. you put black legos on a base plate and then red legos on top of the black legos. now say the black legos are deformed on the bottom and not actually sticking to the base plate. will putting clear legos on top of the red legos do anything to fix this problem? no, because the problem is with the black legos.
>>98601909>airless air compressorwhat are you talking about? do you mean oil-free? that just means it's easier to maintain.
>>98602247oh whoops I was confusing it with a different type I looked at for painting houses (unrelated topic). yeah I mean oilless.
>>98602244you are missing a dimension, make that base plate a sphere and make the outher varnish layer rigid and with structural integrity, now it holds everything together better as a rubberband would, you now have to break that layer to have any change at loosening the shit pieces underneath
>>98602277Don't reply to that, it's a known troll
>>98601893>2 yearsMines held up for 8 years
>>98601905it's screw on, first time removing it it will be tight as all fuck, wrap it in a rag and use a big wrenchyou don't need to tighten it up so much after you clean it, just hand tight should be enough for the air not to leakit's about 15 moneys if you break it so...>>98602264the usual oiless compresors are the ones everybody uses for aibrushes, aka the cheap ones like picrelcompressors that need oil are either (some of) the bigger workshop ones or silent ones like the one in your fridge, they are expensive or very expensive and need oil changes/refills, you can also repurpose a scrap fridge compressor to use for your airbrush if you can weld and shit>smoother finishthat's not a factor for how good they spray, because you have a tank and a regulator wich do the work of smoothness and consistency, you could fill the tank with a manual bicycle pump and it would make no difference, if you dont have a tank well...you should
>>98602467i dont have any airbrushing equipment yet but am looking at getting one when I move since ive got a resin printer thats not doing anything rn
a lad
The eyes could be better, but I'm scared I'll fuck up the face.
>>98602767i hope I can paint as well as you one day
>>98602772Post your current best work, we can give you tips.
>>98601620A few thousand years ago people invented these things called a roof and walls.Use them.
>>98602772>i hope I can paint as well as you one dayThank anon, but other than her skin, which is just layering and some glazing like usual, the rest is contrast slop
>>98601936the question is are they using the term Sable correctly?There are historically two kinds of Kolinsky Sable, one is actual Kolinsky Sable, it comes from a russian Sable, these are valued for garments, so highly that there have been points in history where it is forbidden for anyone but royalty to wear russian sable furs.the other "Kolinsky Sable" is not a sable, it is a Siberian Weasel, and the term "kolinsky Sable" was borrowed from the textile to upsell the luxury of Siberian Weasel paintbrushes, you will find this marked as Tobol region Kolinsky Sable and THIS is the stuff you really want.Today there is a third kind of "kolinsky" which refers to everything from squirrel and goat hair to pure synthetic trash, this is the kind you will mostl frequently run into either online shopping, or IRL hobbyist shopping, this kind of "kolinsky" has been specifically targeted at you, it is NOT what you want, but you will have to go out of your way to find anything else.Today there
>>98602851haven't started yet :)
Added a night lord to the consortium
>>98602945Stop looking at other people's work, go paint your minis, then come back. We're happy to help, but you gotta paint your models first lol
>spend hours trying to do blended highlights>super focused>Accidentally rubbed half the drybrush highlights off his legsfuck my lifewould a varnish prevent this happening?
>>98602979It would slow it down considerably at least
I fucking hate painting metallics and would like to to try NMM - what would be an essential tip you guys would have?
I love this model, but MAN is he a fucking pain to paint. Time for the disc + base, hoping to be done within the next month lol.
Any suggestions on finishing touches for my gold? Black primer, retributor, and agrax so far. A silver highlight? I’ve always liked the layered, oily/shadow effect in some of the art and I’m not sure how to render it. I’ve got citadel paints and some vallejo.
>>98603128All the dark bits are reflections of stuff in the environment, all the brightest bits are reflections of light sources in the environment. You can usually bullshit their placement as a beginner, but once you get more advanced you can consider what the model would actually be reflecting.
>>98603128just do it. Focus on contrast more than blending. NMM has a very high ceiling, but also a pretty low floor - most people just assume otherwise.
Question for anyone familiar with greenstuff sculpting, can you apply varnish to greenstuff to help with getting it perfectly smooth? I'm doing up this dudes cape and it's my first time trying my hand at sculpting. This is after the initial rough shaping, and a second layer for smoothing. I'm going to do another layer to finish the smoothing but there are some hard to reach places with my sculpting tools and was just need some advice.
>>98603431From the front, I think I've managed to hide most of the finger prints with the first layer applied but I'm not too happy with the texture
>>98602894The real brand I am pretty sure is using the term correctly. Their website is very explicit about the animal hair used in their brushes, most of them Siberian weasel, while their synthetics are very clearly marked as such.The counterfeits are shit show, but that's to be expected for a counterfeit.>>98603431>>98603441Vaseline or oil during sculpting helps a lot, and modern silicone sculpting tools too, but you can also sand and carve green stuff after it has cured. Certain putties are water based and in theory can be thinned to flow into recesses on paper, but YMMV will vary with that technique and the putty you are using. You might need a lot of sanding afterward.
>>98602767While the kingdom Death minis are a bit too over the top for me, i have to say that this is a damn fine paintjob, anon.>>98602867>glazing like usualusual for you maybe. Surely not for me.
Still needs quite a bit of weathering and cleanup, and some stuff is missing (stowage, hatch, crew), but my tracked Impulsor kitbash with full interior is nearing the finish line.
>>98602277it's not any more rigid than the paint it's stuck to. most hobby tier """"""varnish"""""" might as well just be clear paint. why do you think it's any different than the colored kind?>>98602283I'm telling people basic fact based info that you would find by actually reading the technical info from the paint manufacturers. this other nigger is spreading disinfo from sloptube and other dumb hobby niggers.
>>98603566>most of them Siberian weaselExcept Siberian Weasel isn't what it is, it is TOBOL REGION Sibeeian Weasel.The diet and climate of THAT reggion makes the animals living there better for paintbrushes. Russia has Sibeeian Weasels in other regions,China has Siberian Weasels too, none of those are Kolonok, so none of those are "Kolinsky"The only brand to name Tobol Kolinsky specifically is da Vinci, and look at their prices right now, they keep going up for the Maestro Series 35 because there is trouble getting Russian material with the war on.Everyone else is buying from China.
>>98604228Gonna have to see a comparison of the two. Don't see how weasels of the same variety can be that much different just based on climate
I will prime the model today.
>>98602244>>98604168>imagine you are making a lego mosaic. you put black legos on a base plate and then red legos on top of the black legosThis is a perfect analogy, but you're understanding it wrong. In this setup, the layers of paint are tall stacks of non-interlocked 4x2 and 2x1 bricks built up several layers high off the baseplate. Covering them with large, clear plates on the very top and surrounding the mosaic with a properly interlocked frame will make the entire structure vastly more stable. Even the "off" black bricks will be held in place by the plates anchoring onto the rest of the structure. And before you go off on how it's really just yadda yadda chemically, the varnish is putting down a very thick, self-bonded and relatively homogenous layer that is mechanically *much* stronger than a stack of extremely thin coats even when you're just using a bottle of unthinned clear acrylic medium.
>>98604357region isn't the only difference, it also needs to be a Male and it needs to be tail hairs from their winter coat.And that's what is important, the winter coat. See the colder and darker an environment the individual weasel lives in the thicker it's winter coat will develop, the males develop thicker coats to begin with but the added factor of climate stacks onto that.If climate alone were the only factor it would be possible to farm weasels by raising them in a refridgerated enclosure, but it's also diet.Thing is no studies have been done to show WHAT in the diet is important. Is it a fish they eat? Is it a bug that fish eats? Is it blood that bug eats? Take dairy cattle, if you graze them on stinkweed their milk tastes like stinkweed, proteins and fats alone are not a measure of nutritional value, the specific complex molecules that come from specific organisms can have a huge impact.So are the fats that create the oils in the weasels coat being affected by a specific complex molecule from a fish it eats? from the bugs that fish eats? From the blood of a siberian reindeer those bugs eat? No one knows for certain, it could even be a cumulative factor of all three! the thing that is known for certain is that it is more than just species and the tobol region makes the difference.You can figure this out yourself, just start searching the topic "Why is 'kolinsky' important in acrylic/watercolor paintbrushes?" and learn the history.
>>98604390the top coat uses the same physics to hold itself together as the medium in the paint below it. it sprays like paint, it cures like paint, it basically is just paint. maybe it has some other additives that make it more uv or solvent resistant. it isn't doing anything different to hold things together than another layer of paint would.
>>98604483NTA, it's a complete all over wrap.Take a pallet of amazon boxes stacked 6 feet high, they are not stacked interlocking, any monkey can knock that whole pallet over and make a huge mess.Take seran wrap, give three layers of wrap all around the pallet, now even a fucking forklift can't knock that stack of boxes over.Figure it out dipshit, STFU and GTFO.
>>98604433What you're saying makes sense, but I still need to see some empirical evidence
im making myself Cathay army with strong water motive. What do you think about those shields?
>>98604603Looks like a lot of that detailing will be outright microscopic if these are for human-sized ~28mm infantry.
>>98604029Might be my favourite vehicle paintjob of yours so far, love the details. Keep it up raptorbro
>>98604624yea that im thinking mostly about base cote and drybrush metalics
>>98604603wow those are kinogreat ideamight have to make some shields myself now, though I'm not really doin a water theme so I'd have to make my ownI saw this fish banner at one point which was really cool
>>98604670look at how happy the fish is :DGreat banner anon
>>98604684It's not mine sadly but it is very cool
>>98604651Thank you, anon! Been testing some new techniques with it.
>>98604498>it's a complete all over wrap.and your base coat isn't? you would have the same effect if you sprayed any color, which is not at all. I already gave the example of hydrodip film being prone to flaking off to show how putting clear on top of something doesn't actually make it more durable and you faggots just ignored it. these are real life issues in real life industries where money is on the line that people have already figured out solutions to. I don't need some retard painting toys for fun who thinks he has invented the wheel telling me I don't know how things work. you can paint your own shit however you want, but don't go around telling people shit that isn't true.
>>98604903holy shit just fuck off already
>>98604913>anon living in such loveless life that he gets angsty when spot even small ammount of ppl being nice to each other lmao
>>98604930your 5th spergout in like 2 weeks about the same thing is not "being nice"what the fuck is wrong with you
Finished sculpting some furs on these brigands. A decent kit, even if some of the makes the injuns had were way too realistically proportioned for 28mm figures. The basis of these models are black powder woodland Indian Tribes. Heads are from victrix late Romans and dacians.
>>98604913>noooo stop telling the truth I want to keep being wrong and telling other people liesit's crazy how committed people will be to something that's wrong just because they've decided they don't like the person correcting them
>>98605052>you don't understand, I MUST shit up the thread with my special interestwhy are spergs like this
>>98605001Enormous heads on those bodies with no necks.They look like troglodyte brigands.
>>98605088telling people how paint works in a thread where everything is painted isn't a special interest.
>>98605121Where is your tard wrangler?
>>98605100I was hoping to hide the necklessness with the fur. Victrix models are a lot chunkier than what wargames factory produced back in the day.
>>98605146so now you have degraded to the name calling and though terminating level of argument. anything to stop people from finding out the truth.
>>98605164Nigger you've been spamming this shit for weeks now. Nobody cares. Go somewhere else.
>>98605171>noooo stop telling the truth I want to keep being wrong and telling other people lies
>>98586059I tried jewelling the lenses on the radar thing and it looks way better than I thought it would, stands out from a good few feet away. Not gonna varnish it or the other guy I'm working on right now till I can figure out how to avoid it looking sandy.
>>98605178yeah you are right, nobody cares, ppl will continue 'priming' with paint and 'varnishing' with 'paint', because it works for them (or not but they can't be arsed), can you now go back to your cave? you are not going to change anyone's workflow here, why is that so hard to understand for you?inb4, yes, people 'like' being 'wrong', welcome to basic human nature
>>98604522buy a maestro 35, a winsor7, the cheapest "kolinsky sable" and compare.
Starting #10
>>98605647>huge ass tiddiesOh hell yeah. You are a true gentleman, anon.
>>98605647Shit forgot to resize that
>>98605647>bigger than usual
>>98605647the glorious SAG
>>98605561Put your money where your mouth is
>>98605726Did that.
>>98605647Reminder that big boobas Witch Elves is canon.
>>98605541if you want to do things wrong with your own models that's on you, but don't drag other people down with you by spreading false information. literally all you're being asked to do is stop giving bad advice, but somehow this is a several month long struggle for you.
>>98605766i'm not any of the anons you have been talking withjust shut up, nobody cares, can't you see it?you have been shitting thread after thread with primers and varnish sinces 2025 and you changed nobodys ways, give up
Now that the dust has settled, is varnish the same thing as clear coat
>>98598045Experimenting with using a blue under coat for the shadows and wet blending everything. No idea to wrap up the face but I think I've learned a bit about lighting, etc.
Okay. Got her printed again, gonna start from scratch. I have a ventilated airbrushing spray booth and deburring tool coming tomorrow, hopefully that will help cut down on some of the dust/texture I was dealing with last time (bad idea to spray in an old cardboard box) and cut down on the little bumps/scars from the removed supports.I also think it was a mistake to glue her together before painting last time. Made it very difficult to get access to her torso and caused issues with over spray on the hair. But now I need to figure out how to fill the connection gaps on her arm and leg after painting.This is my first big statue and my first time doing much with my airbrush beyond priming. What would you guys suggest? Prime and base coat separate, then glue and green stuff them on? I haven't really done much with subassemblies before. I know it will be easier to paint in parts, but I don't want the greenstuffed gap to look out of place once it's all done and put together. Any advice?
>>98606110>"You look lonely. I can fix that."
>>98606110FYI, gloss varnish can get rid of quite bit of dusty texture caused by various things.
>>98605984>dude stop telling the truth just let me fucking get away with lyingwhy does it hurt you so much?
>can't put shade over white primed mini with contrast paint or it kinda fucks it all up>still want some deeper shades without sacrificing the heavy pigmentation so the layers of highlighting are even more striking...wait, couldn't I just put the shade UNDER and before the contrast base layer?
>>98606178you are delusionali want to come to wip and see models pics and sane conversation, not the same conversation over and over
A tiny chain link
>>98605754Then show us some evidence that true kolinsky sable is better than "kolinsky" sabe
>>98606279fighting for its life
>>98606110Would be cool to cast her in transparent resin
>>98606327Can't, you can't know if I'm doing my best work with either brush, you have to test it yourself if you want meaningful comparison.
>>98606279I was hoping you would leave this set bare
>>98606260if you don't want to be having this conversation why don't you simply stop spreading false information?
>>98606497Next one
>>98606543
>>98604903>putting clear on top of something doesn't actually make it more durable and you faggots just ignored it. these are real life issues in real life industries Real life industries like car manufacturers? Right, good thing that they don't clear coat their paint jobs at the factory.>oh wait, they doAlso, post WIP.
>>98606327I can at least show this, left is a cheap amazon "kolinsky" right is the daVinci maestro 35.Both are size 1 brushes.
>>98606619Both look completely fucked up
>>98606597clear coat on a car makes it more resistant to bird shit and getting scratched by rocks and baking under the sun 12 hours a day. it does not prevent the paint from peeling on account of botched primer application or bad surface prep. I absolutely recommend clear coating your models to protect them from cheeto fingers and getting bumped around. I'm not going to lie and tell you that it's a way to fix a fuck up from a different stage of painting.
>>98606643they're in front of a lamp, it's the dark part that matters, not the abnormally highlighted fringe bits.
>>98606327>>98606619same brushes, wetted, maestro35 top.
tfw the who-knows-where-they're-sourced GSW sables I bought have outperformed my rosemary & co, windsor * newton, and da vinci sables
They're blocking the leg now lolI'll have to model more than just titties this time
>>98606725With great titties comes greatly reduced mobility.
>>98606747Fuck I guess
>>98606757It's not coincidence that all olympic women are flat.Some nice asses though.
>>98606725if you were thinking ahead you could have deformed the titties around where the leg goes
>>98606794That would have been ideal
>>98606800>deformed titties>idealWTF
>>98606812Displaced anon.
>>98606872
>>98606543Fantastic set of cans on that one
>>98606697>>98606619Thank you, now I can see a physical difference and judge for myself at least partially
>>98607033YoooooooI've been looking for a hack like this... might have to do it in reverse though, I basecoated those things white.
>>98606932Shouldn't there be two of them?A paperclip pin and sprue goo. Just like a real surgery I'm pretty sure.
>>98606648>clear coat on a car makes it more resistant to bird shit and getting scratched by rocks and baking under the sun 12 hours a daySo it makes the paint more durable, got it. Not exactly the same shit that we gamers deal with, but not entirely dissimilar either...minis getting bumped together in transport, getting knocked off tables, maybe even sitting out in the sun. You're in /tg/ so I'm sure that you know all this. You probably game all the time. What's the last game that you played? Also, post WIP, because this is the WIP general.If you're not working on something right now, I understand. Given your experience with painting though, I'm sure that you have all sorts of painted minis. Would you mind posting some pics of them? We like pics of painted minis here.
>>98607071>getting bumped together in transport, getting knocked off tables, maybe even sitting out in the sunthose are legitimate reasons to clear coat your minis. not because you think it will patch over shitty priming. I have been perfectly clear about what I am arguing and have given practical examples that back it up. you are willfully ignoring it because you want to make it seem like you are right so people who don't know better will join your side. you are being malicious and a negative contribution to the thread.
>>98607107Not that anon, if I prime white and I end up with some textures on the mini or other issues because of weather would a clear coat help with that?Any recs to get started, products, etc?
>>98607120no, if you have orange peel or dry spray or some other problem it's indicative that something went wrong with your primer application. the correct solution is to strip it and do it again. putting a gloss coat over it isn't going to help for multiple reasons. first because the ability to self level is in the microinch scale while visible texture is going to be in the thousandths or hundredths of an inch scale. it's like how painting a brick wall doesn't get rid of the brick texture. even if you used a product meant to be built up and sanded smooth, you would still just be covering over flaws that might create underlying problems later down the road.the one thing I will recommend no matter what you are using is to test everything on something expendable first. it's better to find out that something isn't spraying right on a piece of scrap you can throw out than on your model you already spent tons of effort on.
>>98602043nta but gfil /d/49LsYSgc
>>98607156I see, thanks
I came across sponge techniques with makeup sponges recently. I had some of these stick sponges around but I wonder if the makeup ones are different. Are they finer in texture or something? I never seen one.Also if anyone uses sponges, do you clean them afterwards or throwaway? Sounds like the paint could get caked in it easily. I already have trouble cleaning my drybrush.
>>98607425>I came across sponge techniques with makeup sponges recentlyDid the AI overlord suddenly decided it was the time to shill sponging?I've seen nonstop videos about this recently and suddenly got like 4 friends talking about it.
>>98607440quite likely, it has been on my mind for a long while, I even tried some on terrain with those stick ones some months agobut yeah I just saw a vid pop up now that reminded me and finally made me make the minimal effort of posting the question about the makeup sponges that everyone seems to use
>>98607425I used the makeup sponges, super cheap one from a dollar store. They are much denser and give smoother results from my experience. And you can always tear off a tiny bit and use tweezers to get them in hard to reach places. After use i just put them under the tap and squeeze a few times.
>>98606619>>98606697>>98607031brush sizes are arbitrary, not sure what this pic is supposed to showpicrel are some of my brushes, they are all a 2 except the carstynmost are about 10€, the carstyn was 5, that davinci is about 15 around here, also 35 is kind of a long bristles series, 10 is shorter with less belly and is just 1 € less for the n1in actual handling the gold gsw is kind of bad, the silver is better even tho is not fully natural hair, the palitra is great and feels better than the rosemary, haven't used much the other two yet>>98606711they are made by w&n, quality control varies for the same brushes of the same brand, if you have ever seen a bunch of brushes together at a hobby shop you can tell wich ones are better made
>>98606772mostly because tits are fat and exercise burns fat, a lot at that level, some even get reductions for comforti'm sure there's also some genetic predisposition an hormone related biases in elite athletes but i'm no biologist
>>98607655There has to be a genetic thing, not all of them are flat. Here's a cyclist from my country.
>>98607668>cyclistok but that's all legs
>>98607686>Smartest anonymous tit expert
>>98607694WELL, I'LL HAVE YOU KNOW....
>>98607686Fat is evenly distributed.
>>98607668no offense but that's not an elite athlete, she has won nothing, compare to an actual gold medallist
>>98607701Does that matter? She's a pro athlete with decent tits despite her training routine.
>>98606096yes
>>98607702it means she's not training as much (or as well) and still has a lot more body fat that the other onelook at any instacrap influencer muscle mommy, or bodybuilders, they have virtually no body fat and either have bolt ons or barely anything, i'm sure you can also find the progression of someofc genetics matter but tits are fat and if you go below ~15% body fat, they gone, this anon is right >>98607700anon's tit-witches are marvelous but unrealistic for top trained assasins (not that it matters)
>>98607734I don't think the person that trains the hardest wins.But yeah, those witches obviously use magic to enhance their abilities (and their tits) instead of training physically.
>>98607734>anon's tit-witches are marvelous but unrealistic for top trained assasinsexcellent observation, anon
>>98606697The bottom one looks synthetic
Working on the head, it'll look better whonce it gets hit with the Ultra Matte.
>>98601634>not 'plein airbrushing'
Glorious knocker anon is doing the lord's work. And trying to apply logic in the face of him making all our huge titted desires come true (In a setting that has magic. Explaining shit. Ain't gotta. Etc.) is heresyMOOORREEEEEEE.(My one request would the chain link being bent in the middle to help simulate the tremendous stress it's under.)
>>98607033>>98607039Apparently it also works with thin steel wool, which is also less likely to get soaked.
>>98607650>Gsw brushesLmao
>>98608307mine was good but it went blunt because I'm a retard and tried to trim a stray hair
>>98608307the silver ones are okay, the gold ones are bad for the price and the green ones are your usual syntheticsi always buy some odd brushes to fill orders and test them
>>98607650Winsor & Newton don't make brushes. W&N Series 7 at least is made by crown artist brush.
>>98608115that guy made me realize half of you are desperate coomers.
>>98608548>muh coomershut the fuck up
Just about finished this guy last night, minus a couple areas I need to touch up.
>>98608548You are not one of us
>>98608562struck a nerve, cumbrain?
>>98608346well ok, they make them for gw too, the same as the series7, what i meant is that it's the same product
>>98608548They are the original fa/tg/uys. Wizards in their 40s deserve their outlet, let them be.
>>98608571>>98608548I think you should leave, you are not one of us
>>98608548Don't deny your masculine appetite.
You control the models that you paint.
>>98608583stop with that bullshit, this is /wip/, go back posting your work.
>>98608115But anon, I prefer normal size tits.
>>98608591I doYANOOU
>>98608548Are you one of those turbogay puritanical zoomer faggots?
Anons who batch paint, what is your process? How many minis do you work on at a time, and do you do 1 color at a time or 1 section (e.g. leather or armor panels) at a time? How do you avoid missing stuff?>t. slowfag
>>98608563Kinda racist how he isnt african
>>986088245 to 20 at a time, a color at a time to limit switching between paints, a simple checklist can help avoid missing stuff, otherwise just pay attention.Not having to switch paints all the time is the main reason why batch painting saves time. You don't have to pour out new paint and wash your brushes every few minutes. The other reason is getting into a routine of doing (for example) a bunch of leather pouches in a row, so you get used to it and do them quicker/cleaner.
>>98606279Godspeed anon, godspeed. Where'd you find the chain link?>>98608824Up to a dozen if there are some details like belt buckles, armour trim etc. Of course you work on a smaller group the more finicky details there are on the minis. But if you just need to give them an ink wash, you can do bigger groups. When I batch paint, I try to add at least one layer of paint to the group. Usually two, three if I'm really pushing it.The hardest part is going back and fixing small mistakes and omissions, it feels the most Sisyphean.
>>98608824I typically do 5-10 minis at a time, any more than that and you risk feeling like you're making no progress.>How do you avoid missing stuff?That's the neat part...
I just had an idea. What if you painted a mini, clearcoated it, and then deliberately applied a layer of a more fragile paint on top. The fragile paint will naturally wear off the high areas as you use the mini, so you'll get natural wear patterns on your whole squad/army. After you've finished your current league/campaign/tourny/whatever, you apply another layer of clear coat to lock in the wear pattern.
>>98608919(me)Obviously you'd just do this on the armour panels, not like the skin or something.
>>98608919it will look like torn paint and not to-scale wear and tear
>>98608919>you'll get natural wear patternsBig greasy thumbs aren't natural wear patterns, unless you're playing a land of the giants campaign.
>>98608919It will be out of scale. You can just use hairspray chipping and varnish. It takes a bit of training to master, but it's the best way of doing fast, chipped material.
Progress on Ahriman's disc. The runes came out better than I thought. There's so much fucking detail on this thing, I almost don't want to paint the underside but my autism compels me.
>Johnny standing next to one of the three models I've painted so far this yearLess time working, more time painting would be nice.
>>98607425I've seen some people use melamine sponges too which are super fine
>>98608852>Godspeed anon, godspeed. Where'd you find the chain link?I found it arrayed in connection with other links of similar magnitude and extent, so that they had formed a rope-like length. It's just cheap jewelry chain anon.
>>98608563Looks awesome, sword is very cool. Not 100% sold on the gold nmm tho
>>98608592Let the mega milk homies have this one. Sharing is caring
>>98608106It was a missed opportunity for sure.
Anyone here have experience with 2mm armies? Specifically napoleonics. I have a 28mm army, and while they look very nice, they don't convey the visuals of a battle when playing, not even on extremely large tables. The table would have to be ludicrously sized and painting the required amount of figures at that scale would be an absolute nightmare.I realise using "blocks" works as stand in, but that too, I feel, would take away from the visual appeal.I have a table that looks pretty much like picrel, but finding the figures is proving to be harder that expected. I have a 3d printer, but its PLA, not resin, and at 2mm anything other than resin seems to suck major balls. Can't find any sellers within Europe either.Anyone maybe have tips on how to DIY an army at this scale?
triangle patterns are so tricky for me, i guess i should be thankful nobody will give a shit when the model's on the table at least
>>98609649ThanksI wasn’t sure the sword would work out but I think it came out alright>Not 100% sold on the gold nmm thoWhy’s that?
Finished this guy off. Tried to make it look like his weapon is crackling with arcane energies. Not sure, he's ok. Minimum tabletop standard was achieved.
>>98608919you can get that effect with a reverse wash type technique. you cover the entire part with your distress color and then scrub it off with a scotchbrite pad. since it has a rough texture the color isn't removed evenly and it makes a scratched look.
>>98609922>Why’s that?nta, it's too pale, it doesn't look like gold at allit has the same color as the bone in that last pic
A little bit longer than her left leg but oh well
>>98609922lookin good Xi bro i rly like it keep on posting when u gonna have more
>>98610334These might be the best witches I've ever seen in Warhammer.
>>98610364BIGGER the leader need to stand out
>>98610389anon thats a chinese man
>>98610395Big titty kroot patrol?
>>98610395holy mackerel
>>98610400shhh
>>98609986it looks good, above minimum table. You won't win any contests, but you should take pride.>>98610364your dedication to making sexy elves is admirable and enviable
>>98610403>>98610414more like big titty kroot army at work
>>98610382thanks will work on the whole unit next so it's gonna take a while
>>98610400>>98610364I meant these ofc. But Cathay is fine too.
I recently bought my first minis in 15 years (The Exodite and Deathwatch Kill Team boxes. And I was going to get the Raveners Kill Team too so I had four teams to do 4-player mayhem games)I made a list of all the paint supplies I needed/wanted and spent a long time researching which paints were need vs nice to have and which to get to save money. But fucking hell I forgot how expensive it all was.It's $350 just for paints and that's before any of the brushes and materials and shit. 90% of the paints I've chose are Vallejo too which are way cheaper than Citadel. I only picked a handful of stuff like Pro Acryl's Payne's Grey, Dark Jade and Pyrrole Red.But I haven't actually bought anything yet because the massive bag of dosh I have to drop on paints.I'm even getting one of my brothers to 3d print a bunch of exodite and ork terrain for me to make my kill team stuff on theme for the exodite set.Sorry for my rant. My hype for getting back into the hobby just slapped me in the face. I knew it was going to be expensive, but fucking hell man.
>>98611039Nigga your brother has a 3D printer, what the fuck are you buying minis for? I understand if you want to work with plastic or kitbash, but you can not only get original GW designs STLs, but also better designs out there. With a good 3D printer, you can make better detailed minis, too.
>>98610364Reminds me of Yulia Nova.
>>98611126Bless. It's Lovely Lilith and Maserati for me.
>>98607771Yes, and it is sold as "kolinsky sable".You get what you pay for.
>>98611039>$350 just for paintsThe fuck are you doing, buying an entire paint range? How many paints are in your list?
>>98611107I like getting the proper minis, but I'm getting all the new terrain 3d printed. And a couple of small bits here and there like the Kill Team equipment stuff. But to be honest, I was just blinded by the official Exodite models. I was big into Eldar back in the 90's.His 3d printer isn't good enough to make totally clean prints of small figures, but good enough for the terrain. I'm doing the classic 2nd edition ork huts, green cactus balls with red toothpicks and rusty walls surrounding the exodite monuments. Lots of jungle plants etc etc.I bought Reality in Scale jungle scatter stuff for terrain bases. Really cheap and great looking stuff.I think I did a lot of good research what to buy, but it still just ended up being fucking nuts.I'm starting from square one though, so there would be a price wall regardless of what I got.
>>9861120152 including a couple of effect paints like the dirty down rust (there's a store in my country selling the 25ml bottle for $7,8), three Vallejo sprays and stuff.I could also just get the new starter pack from Games Workshop for $36 that has red, blue, green, black, white, agrax and shit like that. It's a great beginner set.But It's more I'd like to get paints for the four (five with my old Tau Stealth team I have unpainted from years ago) and terrain, and I want specific colours for each.
>>98611107>but also better designs out there.I have a 3d printer but let's be real bro. I have not found a single non-gw mini that is even close to the same quality of sculpting (to 3d print at least).
>>98611244If you're not going to make an army out of any of these, just get a basic set of colors and maybe one or two colors for the main armor/carapace if color matching is something you're concerned about. Vallejo model color medieval colors set or AK 3rd gen basic starter set are good options. The latter has a better selection of colors but you need to get metallics separately. The first thing to do with your limited set of colors is to make a grid of 1:1 mixes. This gives you way over 100 colors to work with and you can figure out further mixes from here as needed.Get a value pack of synthetic brushes and one nice brush that you only use for details where needed.Cheap automotive black primer is fine for minis. Someone in your FLGS can point you to what to get in your area.
>>98611244aaah, you're just retarded.
>>98611211Yeah, I understand that, makes sense. >>98611294It comes down to the style you prefer, but imo there are fair bit of designers who make better sculpts. Archvillain Games, for example. Most of his takes on GW models are so much better it's not even funny.
>>98611373Yeah, I'm thinking about cutting down to get a much more basic set and blending my way to specifics. I'm just very particular with some colours and had an idea of doing the eldar without ever using pure black or white to make them look more ethereal. Doing the orks in slapchop (that Juan Hildago guy has a great video about doing orks that style with only a small handful of paints).My intention was to do all the teams in very different styles and colours, but unify them through their bases and terrain.I don't know man. I know I can cut back and blend my way, but I also see some colours and instantly go "that's the one" like Payne's Grey and Pyrrole Red, but I know I don't have the skills to make them look how I want either way, so fuck it right.>>98611378>Being particular about colours in a thread about painting>Haha you're retarded!!Come on anon. I understand I'm whining a bit, but fucking come on man.
>>98611481>Payne's Grey and Pyrrole RedAlright anon, time to lay off the influencers. You haven't painted in 15 years and haven't seen any of these colors in person. Get one of those starter sets, pick one team to paint and finish those. Then take your little color mix chart with you to an art store in person and compare you swatches to those in the store to see if you're really missing out. If there's a nice punchy red you can't do with your current paints or if you find yourself making a 2:3:5:7 mix to get the exact color you need then find the closest to that in a hobby paint range to save yourself the hassle.Don't buy a specific set of paints for a specific set of steps unless you're painting an entire army.
>>98611621>haven't seen any of these colors in personHe doesn't need to, there's Stahly's chart in OP mega.
>>98611621pyrrole red is a "normal" color. it's arguably more useful than any of the reds with gay fantasy names, and probably cheaper too.
Started on the trim, it will take a fair amount of time. But happy to be doing some brush work for a bit instead of doing base coats off the airbrush.
i have been tasked to paint two 15mm flames of war armies and im really excited about itlittle dudes and smol tanks with half the detail and even the bases will be almost completely covered with grass and tuftsthis will be great change for the normal 28mm grind
>>98611621Yeah, I need to cut back on a lot of the more specific shit for sure.I will say though, I don't follow any influencers, I've just looked around to see what you can get these days because I'm hardwired to the Citadel paints from the 90's up to the mid 2000's. It's really incredible the amount of paints and products you can get these days. I would have lost my mind if I could have gotten even some of it as a kid/teen when I was deep into 40k and painting.The payne's grey and pyrrole red I mention is just because, like I said, I have a few colours I've very particular about and those two colours are some of the few I saw where I go "that's the one".Payne's grey looks very versatile and is the exact shade I like for doing blacks with blue toned highlights. And the red is so intense and the specific hue I really like for doing capes and robes where that red is the lightest colour. I really love that deep red without any orange or pink highlights. Just use two colours. That bright red in that hue, a darker red and then just layer/glaze/blend between them. There are of course lots of other reds, I just saw that specific one and thought it looked just right. The cost is in between Vallejo and Citadel, so not the cheapest, but also not the dearest.I already bought a couple of colours from Scale 75 that were really cheap and good looking, like Burnt Umber, but they're the only ones I've bought so far.90% of the stuff on my list is Vallejo which is really cheap too. But I for sure need to cut down on a lot of them. I just wanted to rant a bit about being poor. It's expensive, but the paints last for a long time.
>>98611720Those black and yellow stripes look great anon, well done
>>98611720Lookin' sharp there, m8. Reminds me of my friend's Warhounds.
>>98611481>Payne’s gray>pyrorole redGet some golden soflatMy favorite paints
>>98602949these are so cute and well done anon, excellent idea, excellent conversion, excellent "elevated retro" paintwork.
>>98611635It's just not the same as seeing the paints in person.>>98611764There's two common pyrroles, one of them is warmer and another is cooler. If you know the pigments in the paint then you want PR254 which is the cooler one. It's a good primary red to have. Payne's gray is made differently by every manufacturer, it's not an exact color. You can easily mix a color like it from a deep blue and a brown.Scale75 paints are awful in my experience. Nice finish but that's about it. My original advice still stands, get a small set and mix from that.
>>98611939>imperfect/thinner layer looks different than evenly applied oneAnon, I...
>>98611960It's not even the same hue. Kill yourself posthaste.
>>98611635that's useful for comparing colors, and to give a rough idea of the actual colorbut unless your monitor is very good, professionally calibrated and the pdf has an actual color profile you are not going to see the same color as in real life, and you still would need the same light he used to perceive the same color, 5,5k is probably lower than whatever light you are using and we have no info of how good it was or how was the camera setup
green stuffed and ready to prime
>>98604029the run wheels rims should be polished shiny, if you are going for realism. outstanding job on the thing overall!
>>98612238That pose looks like she's really struggling with them.
>>98611870Artists acrylics mog mini paints so hard it's hilarious , yet paypiggies go mental when you mention them
>>98612264Huh, that's interesting, you mean the drive sprockets or idlers? I was thinking about giving them a bit of a black instead for the rubber look.Anyway, thank you, glad you like it!
>>98612398She's got to be
That's it for today
>>98613230
>>98612480If they are rubber than they won't of course. depends on whether the running wheels are rubber or plain metal.
>>98612238>>98613230>>98613234You gotta give us all instructions on how to greenstuff boob models and then prime and paint in your lovely skin tones. Seeing your work here is an absolute joy for me.
>>98598045Hey WIP I saw a video of Duncan Rhodes using black pigment to weather a flamer's barrel to look burnt. >https://youtu.be/H1FU92H6VO0?t=1069Can't drybrushing do this or is black pigment better for this sort of thing and looks better?And is Vallejo's pigment binder a good nontoxic alternative to AK's pigment fixer?
>>98607734Except that female assassins are all about distracting targets for an easy kill, either with seduction or with awe. Fat tits would give a heavy advantage that outweighs mobility issues, such that training camps would select for the perfect ration: F cups
>>98607920Needs another glaze desu
>>98609986It looks fine, but you could do a drybrush on the shield and then wash again
>>98608824Im currently doing 75 at one time.I do a single color at a time until the model has a nice base coat. Then I throughly touch up spots I missed or fugged up. Then I slap on speed paint and call it good. I don't recommend doing 75 models. Its taken me months. Almost done just gotta do shields and quivers and minor details.
>>98610364This anon is the hero we need.
>>98612238While I love your greenstuff work, these seem a bit pinched desu
>>98613304I second this. I also wish to learn how to boobmax my models.
>>98613592Ye, getting there.I got some preddy good brushes randomly as a gift
>>98607107What's the last game you played? How about that WIP? Again, if you're not working on something right now, I'll understand, but maybe you could post something that you've done in the past. You have painted a miniature or two, right?
>>98613987lmao this is so important to you
Brainrotted coomers.
>>98614335Hey bud I noticed you're hungry for attentionBut I feel the need to inform you this is a coomer board and always has been and if you don't like it you need to leave
>>98613924>ray studioSorry, but they're just generic synthetic brushes with a brand name slapped on them. Ray studio stuff is fine but overpriced and nothing special
>>98614335you are not one of us
>>98604029Goddamn anon, I was kinda proud of my tank but this is a whole nother level. What scale model tracks fit a 40k tank? I’m curious
Hit everything with the AK. Now I can see what I'm doing and move forwards! >>98614356No problems, I usually use a bunch of hardware store synthetic for this and that. They are better than those anyway, will be useful.
>>98614335Image being so cucked by modern society that you can't even appreciate large breasts. It's actually sad.
>>98614659Imagine*
>>98614639the matt look here feels a bit odd
>>98614684It's the main thing keeping it from looking like a toy.
>>98614692i think some gloss would have worked well to accentuate the matte black
>>98614684Fair enough. Just a preference, all my models are mega matte.
>>98614706Which bits would you gloss? It's nowhere near finished
>>98614639I warned you before but not cleaning up all of the glue mess is making the end result look like shit. you could paint it to look like mud or gore splatter but if you were going to go to that effort you could have just sanded it off in the first place.
>>98614752Oh well, I guess it's gonna look like shit then lol.
>>98614714i think the red and gold would look neat
Anyone used Microscale Micro Gloss for decal prep? Do I really have to wait several hours for it to dry? >>98614807Thanks for the suggestion, but it would look out of place with the rest of the dudes.
>>98613230>>98613234Goodness after being primed the weight of them is tremendous. Thirding for the titorial if you care to document it.I make donks for some of my models. Ut not on this level. The blending is very good. Silicone tools? (Sculpting, not booba)And you added junk in the trunk too. You've out done yourself. Keep going anon. This is your thread as far as I'm concerned.
Bit more work on snikrot, Orks have been such a treat to paint compared to marines in sense that i can put a third the mental effort in and still get the same if not a greater satisfaction from painting
>>98611870Thanks, I will check out those paints. I'm open to any suggestions.>>98611939Damn, Scale 75 are the only paints I've bought so far. I only bought five or six paints from them that I thought looked great. But I also got some of their Jungle Soil texture paste that looks exactly what I'm after to use as a thin first layer on the bases. It looks like the actual jungle floor I saw one time I was in a real jungle. Going to use that as the ground level, paint it burnt umber and splash some greens here and there, then top it with the reality in scale jungle scatter here and there. Easy, cheap and hopefully good/realistic looking bases to unify the teams and terrain.But I will definitely take your advice and cut back so I mix my way to many colours. It's not like I'm building full armies, just small kill teams. Batch painting + wet palette should help the blends last long enough to work with and keep a consistent colour look throughout the teams. I just have a tendency to go all out on things.And yeah everybody mixes Payne's Grey a little different, but that Pro Acryl one looks perfect to my eyes. It's one of the must haves for me. I love blue and turquoise so I get fairly particular about them.
>>98614493Thanks, anon! GW scale is all over the place as you know, but I've found that smaller (!) 1:35 vehicles work the best. For example, most of the parts there are from 1/35 M113 which is nearly 1:1 sized to Impulsor. The tracks are not from the kit (I had to print them because workable plastic tracks are usually a pain to build), but they are for the same 1/35 model, too. You can check irl size and divide by 35 to see if they would fit. Anyway, IIRC, Land Raider tracks are around 15mm wide, so most of the modern 1/35 IFV tracks should be suitable. For example, picrel is Repulsor (the same size as Land Raider) + Bradley tracks (and turret).
>>98611870>>98614962I like soflats but even the cheapest small jars are 3x the price of any single bottle of hobby paint over here. If you can get it for cheap go for it.
>>98615130Insane paintjob anon, very well done.If I can say one bit of constructive criticism, it's the red lenses are a bit too rough/sloppy looking compared to the rest of the paint job. I like the red hue you have on them, but they're just a little too sloppy which makes them stand out a bit too much (and not because they're contrast to green)
>>98615236You are definitely correct, I usually do them last, when I'm about done with the model, so I always half ass it. I can't promise it will get better, but I'll attempt it.
>>98615246They're not gems, but you could try and slap some gloss varnish on them to give them a little more life. It just looks like you need one or two more layers of colour variance and you'll be done
>>98615236Personally I think they look fine and I like how they stand out. But I would fix the little red spills on a couple of them, since the rest of the paintjob is so well done.
>>98615272I think they look off because the rest of the paintjob is done to a very high level with very smooth colours, but then the lenses are just slapped on.It stands out too much in the sense that, if you for instance do weathering on one arm of a mini and not the rest, then it looks weird and not cohesive. Or if you only do panel lining on the leg of a Gunpla. If you do things to a certain level, then it looks jarring if some aspects aren't up to the same level. Especially when the rest of the model is painted that good.It's a small detail, but because the red contrast already pulls you eye in, the difference in level makes it stand out even more.Again, it's just constructive criticism, I'm not trying to sound harsh
working on some dwarven miners.
>>98614639Slapping some decals on
Have some ass
>>98615551Very nice. How did you do the skin?
>>98615551peak footwear to step on faces
>>98615551figi?
>>98615551Nice. What paint did you use for the skin?
>>98615598>>98615962Vallejo basic skintone and pastel
>>98616032what figure
>>98616045kdm mini
>>98615551Great job on the skin. Not sure what you used for a base/undercoat, but I think you would have kicked your paintwork up a notch here if you had a slight reddish undercoat come through in the recesses. Keep up the good work otherwise.
Some zombies/mutants.
>>98599808>Not sure if this is the place to post thisIt is. I'm scratching my head trying to figure out why none of our Ork players have weighed in on this since your request is now three days old. Usually, silence is a *good* sign - that everybody sees your pictures and is happy enough with the job you did that they don't feel the need to comment... good or bad.My two cents... the shadows on the Ork flesh do not look very deep, as if it had not been washed/and or built up from a darker base coat. For most of the models, in fact, I can't see much shading on the flesh at all. I can't be sure if this is what I would see IRL, or - as you said - if it's a by-product of the camera/lighting sapping some of your colour.I'm putting together the collage for our new thread today. If you don't hear much more in this thread, try posting another/some more pictures in the next thread.
>>98609863No tips, but nappy models are neat. Victrix, especially their "newer" stuff looks so damned cool
>>98611039>But I haven't actually bought anything yet because the massive bag of dosh I have to drop on paints.If it helps any, Dick Blick is having a *fat* sale on acrylics right now, I'm picking up some cold pyrrole red with my yearly tubes of burnt umber and yellow ochre. Amsterdam is fine for cheap terrain work and simple strong pigments (Mars Black, umbers, ochres), JoSonja and Golden artist are okay for the weirder stuff. Also get some matte medium to mix them down and maybe some cheap dropper bottles off Amazon or Temu.https://www.dickblick.com/search/?tag=paint-promoIf you're picking up a new stack of paints, I highly recommend getting some Payne's Grey and white acrylic inks down the road. They're just great for fiddling with tones, quick shading, and smoothing out white work.
True Tryumen Oblast kolinsky only comes from the town of Tobolsk, where the weasels are fed premium vodka, bathed in the refreshing waters of the Tobol river, then massaged three times a day. If the brush doesn't specify this, it is simply a weasel hair brush. Like sparkling wines and "American Wagyu," these brushes are merely cheap imitations of the real thing, and an insult to connoisseurs everywhere.
how can I remove perry miniatures from the little pudding cup bases they come attached to? without annihilating the feetI made a diorama and completely neglected to consider the bases. Its too late to adjust the terrain to adapt to the bases because its done.
>>98617011I use clippers to remove most of the material, leaving the feet alone, then steel files for the rest.
>>98617017Thank you
>>98616987>Dick Blick is having a *fat* sale on acrylics right nowoh shit
>>98616987If prices aren't 30x reduced, I'm not interested.
New thread:>>98617142>>98617142>>98617142
