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Work in Progress, "Scream Like an Antelope!" Edition

>WIP Tutorial Images Mega
https://mega.nz/#F!TvQFCaLb!w8WZKCcOsTRasxrI0JWezw

>Saint Duncan's "Six Things I Wish I Knew When I Started Painting"
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ufP8ka3KGno

>Saint Duncan also explains thinning your paints
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wxWgsqSf74s

>Paint thinning 102
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sBDVPoNXyVI

>4 EASY Chipping Tricks For Beginners
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ku4comhKHJM

>Decal Like a Pro
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SYKLiEW7p9c

>How to Edge Highlight
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KoRbYuAfbEk

>How to use contrast style paints
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IhholrozptI

>How to Paint with Tremors
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oqp76vAJu9g

>Airbrush Priming and Thinning
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jkntrSBvXxE
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IGjBQzoukFg
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=00JVUxABe44
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AEqT_R41JX8

>Every day, dreams to go to a better life
>But they remain only dreams
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=clmtfFg2WAE

>Who's Johnny, she'd say, and smile in her special way
https://1d6chan.miraheze.org/wiki/Johnny

Previous threads:
>>98576947
>>98557591
>>98537820
>>
Made good progress on this guy yesterday. Pretty much just have to do the sword, shoulderpad, and head.
>>
File: wazdakka.jpg (445 KB, 1366x1366)
445 KB JPG
It took a month and a half, but Wazdakka Gutsmek is finally done. Overall it took around 50~ hours (primarily due to needing to strip and repaint some pieces), but I am very happy with the end results. It was a great opportunity to practice freehand painting illustrations, continue work with my Harder & Steenbeck airbrush, and explore a new approach for doing Ork skin.

I am definitely going back to some smaller units for a bit to give my joints a break.
>>
File: wazdakka-2.jpg (597 KB, 1366x1365)
597 KB JPG
>>98598142

And here's an additional shot to show the size of the miniature.
>>
>>98598142
Pretty sick, the freehand looks good too. A few too many primary colors for my taste, would have dropped the blues.
>>
>>98598274

Thank you! I get where you're coming from with colors, but I'm personally a super big fan of them. I like treating my miniatures as, like, 'Saturday morning cartoon action figures' in a way. I enjoy vibrancy and everything visually popping.

Now that I look at my previous upload on my desktop, I'm a bit salty that things are looking a little pixelated. I may need to adjust my PS Express settings on my phone for future reference to ensure exports remain crisp.
>>
File: 20260831_122226.jpg (2.85 MB, 3219x2446)
2.85 MB JPG
Bretonnia army progress. Thought on the mixed liveries for footmen?
>>
>>98598478
I like the vibrant colors, I just think there's one too many of them.
Most people will be viewing these on their phone, don't sweat it.
>>
>>98598541
I'd have preferred them to be uniform, but maybe only history nerds care about that.
>>
>ask about pro acryl beading up on pro acryl's own rattle primer here
>shitpost argument started
>ask on reddit
>downvoted, blamed for it happening, posts about it not happening with my other paints get downvoted, other people posting about it happening get downvoted too
modern miniature painters are all massive faggots
>>
>>98598729
People on the internet are massive faggots, because there's no repercussions. Bring up this issue irl and they'll agree and sympathize like meek little lambs.
>>
>>98598729
I know it won't help you with your current question, but airbrush is the solution, anon. Rattle cans are retarded as fuck, pricy as fuck long term, too. Beyond some top shelf jap shit, it's not worth the money or effort.
>>
>>98598762
>airbrush priming
Nah, I want primer that doesn't scratch off with a light breeze
>>
>>98598768
Get a good primer then. VMS is pretty sturdy.
Then again, such requirement makes no sense to me.
>>
>>98598768
You can run any primer through an airbrush anon, there's nothing magic about rattlecans.
>>
>>98598768
You can decant rattle can primer and then airbrush it. It's a common technique.
>>
>>98596892
>>98596900
>>98596896
This is why people tell you to buy kolinsky, for those small details.
Synthetics lose their tip very easily very quickly, like others said it's not about the size it's about a perfect tip, even if the brush is small the tip will be big because it's fucked up.

>>98598729
It depends on the primer, firstly pro acryl primers kinda suck ass.
Secondly while their paints are god tier they're already insanely thin so many primer colors just won't stick well.

I'd avoid pro acryl and vallejo primers if working with pro acryl paints.
>>
>>98598768
You're gonna really upset the display model painters with this one
>>
>>98598768
Varnish?
Also there's no difference between both besides that you're overspraying with the primer can, that's why it "sticks" better, there's more to it.
You can get the exact same result but better applied with airbrush, you just have to put more.
>>
>>98598802
>what is varnish
It makes no sense for gaming either
>>
how many threads in a row do we need before people stop claiming that a layer that's only touching paint can affect the interaction on a different layer between primer and plastic?
>>
>>98599010
as long as people feed the trolls they'll keep making the same posts
>>
>another varnish spergout
Jesus fucking Christ find another spergout topic at least god damn
>>
File: azrael.jpg (2.81 MB, 2160x2880)
2.81 MB JPG
Coworker gave me an occupied Japan tea cup so I'm giving him this in return
>>
I ordered some drop-shipped natural sable brushes and will see if they perform better than synthetics. Supposedly real hair, but the listing didn't say what kind of animal it was from...
>>
>>98598729
pro acryl paints are thin and beady hth
>>
File: 1775329937830204.webm (2.99 MB, 720x900)
2.99 MB
2.99 MB WEBM
instead of paying tons of money for made in china brushes why don't you just get a pet weasel and collect the hair it sheds to make your own?
>>
>>98599456
cute!
>>
File: 1775037238119906.jpg (2.38 MB, 4480x1496)
2.38 MB JPG
Not sure if this is the place to post this since it's technically WIP but; first time ever assembling and painting, camera takes away some of the color but fuck it, can't do much about it.
Started with the gretchins so I wouldn't completely fuck up the boyz from the get go, using white primer because I wanted nice saturation and color, had many issues partially because of that but it's nice to see the progress between each mini.

Would appreciate a r8/h8 please, tell me how dogshit they are and why, no holds barred I want to improve as much as I can
>>
File: Kolinsky Sable.jpg (41 KB, 503x377)
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>>98599428
>listing didn't say what kind of animal it was from
A kolinksy sable, I assume? Or did the listing not mention the words "kolinsky" or "sable" at all?
>>
>>98599833
it was simply "natural hair," but other listings mentioned goat hair specifically. I should not have been shopping for hobby supplies at 2 am...
>>
>>98599456
Why not just paint with the weasel tail?
>>
>>98600002
so it can be goat, pig, squirrel, ox, pony, ferret, badger, mongoose... even horse

or just a lie and it's plastic
>>
>>98600222
it's pretty easy to tell when it's plastic
>>
>>98598793
Nope, cans have organic solvents and other volatile compounds, acetates, acetones, and other harsher chemicals, not even close
>>
>>98598827
>Also there's no difference between both
wrong, look at the ingredients sometime
>>
>>98599456
Awesome, what country you in? can't do that in australia
>>
>>98599833
Siberian weasel is what you want which will be listed as "tobol kolinsky sable"
"kolinsky" by itself doesn't mean anything anymore.
>>
File: compare.jpg (337 KB, 1744x1071)
337 KB JPG
I'm trying to sculpt the farseer on the left. I've kitbashed the helmet but I feel like it doesn't feel quite right. I tried adding the little anvil shape thing on the top of the helmet but that didn't really change things. Any advice?

the farseer body and arms are just as a mockup, not going to use those
>>
>>98601160
tilt the side things to lean back along the slope of the helmet like they are in the art instead of straight up
>>
>>98601160
I think the "forehead" part of the helmet should merge with the "scalp" and sides of the helmet. Currently you've got a big line running around it that looks almost like a widow's peak, and it's a bit odd. You may also want to elongate the head a bit.
It might also be a good idea to try to emulate all those flowing tassels around the torso, they seem important to the silhouette and flow of the model.
>>
>>98601160
You're missing the dented curve at the top and the general cone head shape should be bigger vertically, the eyes are vertically too big and should be slanted downwards as well.
Also missing those dent holes? on his mask.
>>
File: Humble suggestion.jpg (275 KB, 4096x3072)
275 KB JPG
>>98601178(me)
>>98601160
picrel
>>
File: fwfwfwfewfwefwefwefewfew.jpg (1.17 MB, 2048x1536)
1.17 MB JPG
finished some chips working on metals next
>>
>>98601449
Lovely stuff, you've made it look absolutely battered.
>>
>>98601449
Sick as awl hell my dude
>>
File: IMG_5083.jpg (167 KB, 1694x2390)
167 KB JPG
Been working on snikrot
>>
>>98601449
what's with the bathroom tiles?
>>
Is this okay for airbrushing?
>>
>>98601620
isn't the entire point of air brushing caring less about all the weather bullshit
>>
>>98601620
tf are you doing anon, plein air airbrushing?
>>
>>98601629
yeah, the whole point is that you can do it inside your climate controlled house, instead of having to go outside
>>
File: helmets.png (349 KB, 785x825)
349 KB PNG
>>98601261
hmm yeah, that does stand out. I think I'll use this farseer helmet as a base instead of the corsair psyker helmet. Thanks!
>>
>>98601620
No, you need around 1500 hPa and 100% humidity.
>>
>>98598085
Shoulderpad and a few other areas I missed done. Anyone have any good tutorials for swords/nmm steel?
>>
>>98598541
>>98598709
As a history nerd, smaller battle formations would often have very mixed liveries. Each full knight was supposed to bring a mounted cavalryman, a few archers or crossbowmen, and some billmen or other footmen as his own personal contribution (AKA a "lance"), then those guys would be combined into larger forces once the muster was complete. If anything the way all the bowmen are in very plain clothes and only a few of the footmen's livery is clearly matching one of the nights are what'd bother me.

>>98599010
Because a complete, cohesive shell of plastic on top of everything is a fuckload more durable than hundreds of sheets of bound pigment butting up against each other and never given a chance to reactivate each other for better adhesion.
>>
>>98601629
Too low or too high humidity still can fuck up your paint job
>>
Do premium airbrush compressors actually stay alive after 2 years of use?
>>
>>98601160
The farseer in the art has his legs close together, teetering backwards with his clothes being whipped tightly around his body. It's slender and menacing. Even the sword is contributing to the lean. The rune armor on the skirt tapers out, then back inwards and the chest is a sharp arrow shape (emphasizing the slender waist) while yours is a different rune, fat in the waist and tapering into a diamond that makes the model look thicker in the center. The wraithbone charms on the wrist and the right sleeve are both flaring in a different direction than the cloak and charms on the waist, which undermines the sense of flow in the original art. Same goes for the flat, even sleeve shape on both sides; they're just hanging there, not being whipped around by eldritch winds
Combine that with his power stance and the helmet issues, and the whole model looks more like he's dropping a microphone and walking away instead of teetering on a precipice of his own damnation, channelling Hell itself to rip an enemy squad in half

...also the collars on the cloak and its silhouette says "ranger" more than "Farseer", but that's as may be.
>>
>>98601864
>premium airbrush compressor
AKA: any decent air compressor.
>Do premium airbrush compressors actually stay alive after 2 years of use?
Yes.
>>
>>98601870
Christ man this isn't even true, iwata and sparmax manufacture theirs in Taiwan while all the rest no name brands come from the same factory in china which are designed to be cheap and fall apart after 2 years
>>
>>98601893
Any decent air compressor should last much longer than 2 years.
>all the rest no name brands...
Hold up there, those are not the compressors we are talking about.
>"Does nice jewellery last more than 2 years?"
>>"Yes"
>"Uhm but actually cheap market jewellery tends to fall apart after 2 years"
That's what you sound like.
>>
>>98601893
the noname 80 dollar tank compressor I got off amazon in 2022 has been working the same with zero maintenance
even if the moisture trap can't fully empty and I could never figure out how to remove the cup to manually empty it
>>
so airless compressors provide a smoother finish but are more expensive?
>>
>>98601905
You're lucky I guess, mine is leaking after 1 year
>>
works on my machine
>>
File: HUMANE.png (381 KB, 507x509)
381 KB PNG
>>98599428
>>98600002
>>98600222
they arrived sooner than expected... They weren't just dropshipped mystery brushes, but counterfeits as well. And plastic. Still less than I'd have paid for shitty nylon brushes at the local craft and hobby stores, so they will get used and then thrown out as soon as they start to hook.

after some digging
>online listing goes out of its way to not list any brand
>packaging has a registered trademark of a known brand
>no copyright date, website URL, and packaging seems too cheap
>and the real brand's site says they sell a set exactly like that, and that their brushes sets cost three times more, and a few other details about the product are wrong

>pic related

moral of the story: you get what you pay for

>>98601905
I bought a noname 3.0L tank compressor in 2016 and it's still working.
>no branding at all, just "MODEL NO TC-20T"
>searching the model number returns dozens/hundreds of images of the exact same compressor with different brand stickers on it
I use it for more than just airbrushing.
>>
slowly realizing that I will have to into big boy painting if I want to do cool freehands on my toy soldiers
>>
>>98601936
ask for a refund and keep them anyways
>>
>>98601160
>I've kitbashed the helmet
You got stl's for warhammer models? You wouldn't happen to have deldar helmets?
>>
>>98601850
Those would have to be some extremely small time knights if all they brought was like 5 footmen. They don't look at that poor.
>>
>>98599456
Can I use cat fur?
>>
>>98602211
sure, can you craft a paintbrush well enough? unlikely, would it be any good if you could? also unlikely
there's also a lot of variation between cat breeds
>>
>>98601850
imagine you are making a lego mosaic. you put black legos on a base plate and then red legos on top of the black legos. now say the black legos are deformed on the bottom and not actually sticking to the base plate. will putting clear legos on top of the red legos do anything to fix this problem? no, because the problem is with the black legos.
>>
>>98601909
>airless air compressor
what are you talking about? do you mean oil-free? that just means it's easier to maintain.
>>
>>98602247
oh whoops I was confusing it with a different type I looked at for painting houses (unrelated topic). yeah I mean oilless.
>>
>>98602244
you are missing a dimension, make that base plate a sphere and make the outher varnish layer rigid and with structural integrity, now it holds everything together better as a rubberband would, you now have to break that layer to have any change at loosening the shit pieces underneath
>>
>>98602277
Don't reply to that, it's a known troll
>>
>>98601893
>2 years
Mines held up for 8 years
>>
File: 1788259846682.png (237 KB, 612x572)
237 KB PNG
>>98601905
it's screw on, first time removing it it will be tight as all fuck, wrap it in a rag and use a big wrench
you don't need to tighten it up so much after you clean it, just hand tight should be enough for the air not to leak
it's about 15 moneys if you break it so...

>>98602264
the usual oiless compresors are the ones everybody uses for aibrushes, aka the cheap ones like picrel
compressors that need oil are either (some of) the bigger workshop ones or silent ones like the one in your fridge, they are expensive or very expensive and need oil changes/refills, you can also repurpose a scrap fridge compressor to use for your airbrush if you can weld and shit

>smoother finish
that's not a factor for how good they spray, because you have a tank and a regulator wich do the work of smoothness and consistency, you could fill the tank with a manual bicycle pump and it would make no difference, if you dont have a tank well...you should
>>
>>98602467
i dont have any airbrushing equipment yet but am looking at getting one when I move since ive got a resin printer thats not doing anything rn
>>
File: IMG_1101.jpg (1.19 MB, 3222x3504)
1.19 MB JPG
a lad
>>
The eyes could be better, but I'm scared I'll fuck up the face.
>>
>>98602767
i hope I can paint as well as you one day
>>
>>98602772
Post your current best work, we can give you tips.
>>
>>98601620
A few thousand years ago people invented these things called a roof and walls.
Use them.
>>
>>98602772
>i hope I can paint as well as you one day
Thank anon, but other than her skin, which is just layering and some glazing like usual, the rest is contrast slop
>>
>>98601936
the question is are they using the term Sable correctly?
There are historically two kinds of Kolinsky Sable, one is actual Kolinsky Sable, it comes from a russian Sable, these are valued for garments, so highly that there have been points in history where it is forbidden for anyone but royalty to wear russian sable furs.
the other "Kolinsky Sable" is not a sable, it is a Siberian Weasel, and the term "kolinsky Sable" was borrowed from the textile to upsell the luxury of Siberian Weasel paintbrushes, you will find this marked as Tobol region Kolinsky Sable and THIS is the stuff you really want.

Today there is a third kind of "kolinsky" which refers to everything from squirrel and goat hair to pure synthetic trash, this is the kind you will mostl frequently run into either online shopping, or IRL hobbyist shopping, this kind of "kolinsky" has been specifically targeted at you, it is NOT what you want, but you will have to go out of your way to find anything else.

Today there
>>
>>98602851
haven't started yet :)
>>
Added a night lord to the consortium
>>
>>98602945
Stop looking at other people's work, go paint your minis, then come back.
We're happy to help, but you gotta paint your models first lol
>>
File: IMG_5297.jpg (872 KB, 2093x2714)
872 KB JPG
>spend hours trying to do blended highlights
>super focused
>Accidentally rubbed half the drybrush highlights off his legs
fuck my life

would a varnish prevent this happening?
>>
>>98602979
It would slow it down considerably at least
>>
File: 1759841663894733.gif (722 KB, 280x290)
722 KB GIF
I fucking hate painting metallics and would like to to try NMM - what would be an essential tip you guys would have?
>>
File: IMG_7525.jpg (1.79 MB, 3024x3779)
1.79 MB JPG
I love this model, but MAN is he a fucking pain to paint. Time for the disc + base, hoping to be done within the next month lol.
>>
File: IMG_2600.jpg (1.39 MB, 3024x3730)
1.39 MB JPG
Any suggestions on finishing touches for my gold? Black primer, retributor, and agrax so far. A silver highlight? I’ve always liked the layered, oily/shadow effect in some of the art and I’m not sure how to render it. I’ve got citadel paints and some vallejo.
>>
>>98603128
All the dark bits are reflections of stuff in the environment, all the brightest bits are reflections of light sources in the environment. You can usually bullshit their placement as a beginner, but once you get more advanced you can consider what the model would actually be reflecting.
>>
>>98603128
just do it. Focus on contrast more than blending. NMM has a very high ceiling, but also a pretty low floor - most people just assume otherwise.
>>
File: PXL_20260831_232235715.jpg (2.16 MB, 3072x4080)
2.16 MB JPG
Question for anyone familiar with greenstuff sculpting, can you apply varnish to greenstuff to help with getting it perfectly smooth? I'm doing up this dudes cape and it's my first time trying my hand at sculpting. This is after the initial rough shaping, and a second layer for smoothing. I'm going to do another layer to finish the smoothing but there are some hard to reach places with my sculpting tools and was just need some advice.
>>
File: PXL_20260831_232248832.jpg (2.22 MB, 3072x4080)
2.22 MB JPG
>>98603431
From the front, I think I've managed to hide most of the finger prints with the first layer applied but I'm not too happy with the texture
>>
>>98602894
The real brand I am pretty sure is using the term correctly. Their website is very explicit about the animal hair used in their brushes, most of them Siberian weasel, while their synthetics are very clearly marked as such.

The counterfeits are shit show, but that's to be expected for a counterfeit.

>>98603431
>>98603441
Vaseline or oil during sculpting helps a lot, and modern silicone sculpting tools too, but you can also sand and carve green stuff after it has cured. Certain putties are water based and in theory can be thinned to flow into recesses on paper, but YMMV will vary with that technique and the putty you are using. You might need a lot of sanding afterward.
>>
>>98602767
While the kingdom Death minis are a bit too over the top for me, i have to say that this is a damn fine paintjob, anon.

>>98602867
>glazing like usual
usual for you maybe. Surely not for me.
>>
File: apc2.jpg (2.34 MB, 1834x2106)
2.34 MB JPG
Still needs quite a bit of weathering and cleanup, and some stuff is missing (stowage, hatch, crew), but my tracked Impulsor kitbash with full interior is nearing the finish line.
>>
>>98602277
it's not any more rigid than the paint it's stuck to. most hobby tier """"""varnish"""""" might as well just be clear paint. why do you think it's any different than the colored kind?

>>98602283
I'm telling people basic fact based info that you would find by actually reading the technical info from the paint manufacturers. this other nigger is spreading disinfo from sloptube and other dumb hobby niggers.
>>
>>98603566
>most of them Siberian weasel
Except Siberian Weasel isn't what it is, it is TOBOL REGION Sibeeian Weasel.
The diet and climate of THAT reggion makes the animals living there better for paintbrushes. Russia has Sibeeian Weasels in other regions,
China has Siberian Weasels too, none of those are Kolonok, so none of those are "Kolinsky"
The only brand to name Tobol Kolinsky specifically is da Vinci, and look at their prices right now, they keep going up for the Maestro Series 35 because there is trouble getting Russian material with the war on.
Everyone else is buying from China.
>>
>>98604228
Gonna have to see a comparison of the two. Don't see how weasels of the same variety can be that much different just based on climate
>>
I will prime the model today.
>>
>>98602244
>>98604168
>imagine you are making a lego mosaic. you put black legos on a base plate and then red legos on top of the black legos
This is a perfect analogy, but you're understanding it wrong. In this setup, the layers of paint are tall stacks of non-interlocked 4x2 and 2x1 bricks built up several layers high off the baseplate. Covering them with large, clear plates on the very top and surrounding the mosaic with a properly interlocked frame will make the entire structure vastly more stable. Even the "off" black bricks will be held in place by the plates anchoring onto the rest of the structure. And before you go off on how it's really just yadda yadda chemically, the varnish is putting down a very thick, self-bonded and relatively homogenous layer that is mechanically *much* stronger than a stack of extremely thin coats even when you're just using a bottle of unthinned clear acrylic medium.
>>
>>98604357
region isn't the only difference, it also needs to be a Male and it needs to be tail hairs from their winter coat.
And that's what is important, the winter coat. See the colder and darker an environment the individual weasel lives in the thicker it's winter coat will develop, the males develop thicker coats to begin with but the added factor of climate stacks onto that.
If climate alone were the only factor it would be possible to farm weasels by raising them in a refridgerated enclosure, but it's also diet.
Thing is no studies have been done to show WHAT in the diet is important. Is it a fish they eat? Is it a bug that fish eats? Is it blood that bug eats? Take dairy cattle, if you graze them on stinkweed their milk tastes like stinkweed, proteins and fats alone are not a measure of nutritional value, the specific complex molecules that come from specific organisms can have a huge impact.
So are the fats that create the oils in the weasels coat being affected by a specific complex molecule from a fish it eats? from the bugs that fish eats? From the blood of a siberian reindeer those bugs eat? No one knows for certain, it could even be a cumulative factor of all three! the thing that is known for certain is that it is more than just species and the tobol region makes the difference.
You can figure this out yourself, just start searching the topic "Why is 'kolinsky' important in acrylic/watercolor paintbrushes?" and learn the history.
>>
>>98604390
the top coat uses the same physics to hold itself together as the medium in the paint below it. it sprays like paint, it cures like paint, it basically is just paint. maybe it has some other additives that make it more uv or solvent resistant. it isn't doing anything different to hold things together than another layer of paint would.
>>
>>98604483
NTA, it's a complete all over wrap.
Take a pallet of amazon boxes stacked 6 feet high, they are not stacked interlocking, any monkey can knock that whole pallet over and make a huge mess.
Take seran wrap, give three layers of wrap all around the pallet, now even a fucking forklift can't knock that stack of boxes over.
Figure it out dipshit, STFU and GTFO.
>>
>>98604433
What you're saying makes sense, but I still need to see some empirical evidence
>>
File: tarcze.png (1.58 MB, 2675x1215)
1.58 MB PNG
im making myself Cathay army with strong water motive. What do you think about those shields?
>>
>>98604603
Looks like a lot of that detailing will be outright microscopic if these are for human-sized ~28mm infantry.
>>
>>98604029
Might be my favourite vehicle paintjob of yours so far, love the details. Keep it up raptorbro
>>
>>98604624
yea that im thinking mostly about base cote and drybrush metalics
>>
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>>98604603
wow those are kino
great idea

might have to make some shields myself now, though I'm not really doin a water theme so I'd have to make my own

I saw this fish banner at one point which was really cool
>>
>>98604670
look at how happy the fish is :D

Great banner anon
>>
>>98604684
It's not mine sadly but it is very cool
>>
>>98604651
Thank you, anon! Been testing some new techniques with it.
>>
>>98604498
>it's a complete all over wrap.
and your base coat isn't? you would have the same effect if you sprayed any color, which is not at all. I already gave the example of hydrodip film being prone to flaking off to show how putting clear on top of something doesn't actually make it more durable and you faggots just ignored it. these are real life issues in real life industries where money is on the line that people have already figured out solutions to. I don't need some retard painting toys for fun who thinks he has invented the wheel telling me I don't know how things work. you can paint your own shit however you want, but don't go around telling people shit that isn't true.
>>
>>98604903
holy shit just fuck off already
>>
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>>98604913
>anon living in such loveless life that he gets angsty when spot even small ammount of ppl being nice to each other

lmao
>>
>>98604930
your 5th spergout in like 2 weeks about the same thing is not "being nice"
what the fuck is wrong with you
>>
File: IMG_20260901_222715.jpg (2.52 MB, 4000x1962)
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Finished sculpting some furs on these brigands. A decent kit, even if some of the makes the injuns had were way too realistically proportioned for 28mm figures. The basis of these models are black powder woodland Indian Tribes. Heads are from victrix late Romans and dacians.
>>
>>98604913
>noooo stop telling the truth I want to keep being wrong and telling other people lies
it's crazy how committed people will be to something that's wrong just because they've decided they don't like the person correcting them
>>
>>98605052
>you don't understand, I MUST shit up the thread with my special interest
why are spergs like this
>>
>>98605001
Enormous heads on those bodies with no necks.

They look like troglodyte brigands.
>>
>>98605088
telling people how paint works in a thread where everything is painted isn't a special interest.
>>
>>98605121
Where is your tard wrangler?
>>
>>98605100

I was hoping to hide the necklessness with the fur. Victrix models are a lot chunkier than what wargames factory produced back in the day.
>>
>>98605146
so now you have degraded to the name calling and though terminating level of argument. anything to stop people from finding out the truth.
>>
>>98605164
Nigger you've been spamming this shit for weeks now. Nobody cares. Go somewhere else.
>>
>>98605171
>noooo stop telling the truth I want to keep being wrong and telling other people lies
>>
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>>98586059
I tried jewelling the lenses on the radar thing and it looks way better than I thought it would, stands out from a good few feet away. Not gonna varnish it or the other guy I'm working on right now till I can figure out how to avoid it looking sandy.
>>
>>98605178
yeah you are right, nobody cares, ppl will continue 'priming' with paint and 'varnishing' with 'paint', because it works for them (or not but they can't be arsed), can you now go back to your cave? you are not going to change anyone's workflow here, why is that so hard to understand for you?

inb4, yes, people 'like' being 'wrong', welcome to basic human nature
>>
>>98604522
buy a maestro 35, a winsor7, the cheapest "kolinsky sable" and compare.
>>
File: witch10_1.jpg (1.73 MB, 3056x3056)
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Starting #10
>>
>>98605647
>huge ass tiddies
Oh hell yeah. You are a true gentleman, anon.
>>
>>98605647
Shit forgot to resize that
>>
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>>98605647
>bigger than usual
>>
>>98605647
the glorious SAG
>>
>>98605561
Put your money where your mouth is
>>
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>>98605726
Did that.
>>
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>>98605647
Reminder that big boobas Witch Elves is canon.
>>
>>98605541
if you want to do things wrong with your own models that's on you, but don't drag other people down with you by spreading false information. literally all you're being asked to do is stop giving bad advice, but somehow this is a several month long struggle for you.
>>
>>98605766
i'm not any of the anons you have been talking with
just shut up, nobody cares, can't you see it?
you have been shitting thread after thread with primers and varnish sinces 2025 and you changed nobodys ways, give up
>>
Now that the dust has settled, is varnish the same thing as clear coat
>>
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>>98598045
Experimenting with using a blue under coat for the shadows and wet blending everything. No idea to wrap up the face but I think I've learned a bit about lighting, etc.
>>
File: PXL_20260901_234402367.MP.jpg (2.22 MB, 4000x2256)
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Okay. Got her printed again, gonna start from scratch. I have a ventilated airbrushing spray booth and deburring tool coming tomorrow, hopefully that will help cut down on some of the dust/texture I was dealing with last time (bad idea to spray in an old cardboard box) and cut down on the little bumps/scars from the removed supports.

I also think it was a mistake to glue her together before painting last time. Made it very difficult to get access to her torso and caused issues with over spray on the hair. But now I need to figure out how to fill the connection gaps on her arm and leg after painting.

This is my first big statue and my first time doing much with my airbrush beyond priming. What would you guys suggest? Prime and base coat separate, then glue and green stuff them on? I haven't really done much with subassemblies before. I know it will be easier to paint in parts, but I don't want the greenstuffed gap to look out of place once it's all done and put together. Any advice?
>>
>>98606110
>"You look lonely. I can fix that."
>>
>>98606110
FYI, gloss varnish can get rid of quite bit of dusty texture caused by various things.
>>
>>98605984
>dude stop telling the truth just let me fucking get away with lying
why does it hurt you so much?
>>
>can't put shade over white primed mini with contrast paint or it kinda fucks it all up
>still want some deeper shades without sacrificing the heavy pigmentation so the layers of highlighting are even more striking

...wait, couldn't I just put the shade UNDER and before the contrast base layer?
>>
>>98606178
you are delusional
i want to come to wip and see models pics and sane conversation, not the same conversation over and over
>>
File: witch10_2.png (2.65 MB, 1600x1600)
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A tiny chain link
>>
>>98605754
Then show us some evidence that true kolinsky sable is better than "kolinsky" sabe
>>
>>98606279
fighting for its life
>>
>>98606110
Would be cool to cast her in transparent resin
>>
>>98606327
Can't, you can't know if I'm doing my best work with either brush, you have to test it yourself if you want meaningful comparison.
>>
>>98606279
I was hoping you would leave this set bare
>>
>>98606260
if you don't want to be having this conversation why don't you simply stop spreading false information?
>>
File: witch10_3a.png (2.82 MB, 1600x1600)
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>>98606497
Next one
>>
File: witch10_3b.png (2.52 MB, 1600x1600)
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>>98606543
>>
>>98604903
>putting clear on top of something doesn't actually make it more durable and you faggots just ignored it. these are real life issues in real life industries
Real life industries like car manufacturers? Right, good thing that they don't clear coat their paint jobs at the factory.
>oh wait, they do
Also, post WIP.
>>
>>98606327
I can at least show this, left is a cheap amazon "kolinsky" right is the daVinci maestro 35.
Both are size 1 brushes.
>>
>>98606619
Both look completely fucked up
>>
>>98606597
clear coat on a car makes it more resistant to bird shit and getting scratched by rocks and baking under the sun 12 hours a day. it does not prevent the paint from peeling on account of botched primer application or bad surface prep. I absolutely recommend clear coating your models to protect them from cheeto fingers and getting bumped around. I'm not going to lie and tell you that it's a way to fix a fuck up from a different stage of painting.
>>
>>98606643
they're in front of a lamp, it's the dark part that matters, not the abnormally highlighted fringe bits.
>>
File: cheapvsexpensivebrushes.png (2.53 MB, 2324x729)
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>>98606327
>>98606619
same brushes, wetted, maestro35 top.
>>
tfw the who-knows-where-they're-sourced GSW sables I bought have outperformed my rosemary & co, windsor * newton, and da vinci sables
>>
File: witch10_3c.png (2.24 MB, 1600x1600)
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They're blocking the leg now lol
I'll have to model more than just titties this time
>>
>>98606725
With great titties comes greatly reduced mobility.
>>
>>98606747
Fuck I guess
>>
>>98606757
It's not coincidence that all olympic women are flat.
Some nice asses though.
>>
>>98606725
if you were thinking ahead you could have deformed the titties around where the leg goes
>>
>>98606794
That would have been ideal
>>
>>98606800
>deformed titties
>ideal
WTF
>>
>>98606812
Displaced anon.
>>
>>98606872
>>
>>98606543
Fantastic set of cans on that one
>>
>>98606697
>>98606619
Thank you, now I can see a physical difference and judge for myself at least partially
>>
File: file.png (358 KB, 590x614)
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>>
>>98607033
Yooooooo
I've been looking for a hack like this... might have to do it in reverse though, I basecoated those things white.
>>
File: witch10_leg2.png (2.65 MB, 1600x1600)
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>>98606932
Shouldn't there be two of them?

A paperclip pin and sprue goo. Just like a real surgery I'm pretty sure.
>>
>>98606648
>clear coat on a car makes it more resistant to bird shit and getting scratched by rocks and baking under the sun 12 hours a day
So it makes the paint more durable, got it. Not exactly the same shit that we gamers deal with, but not entirely dissimilar either...minis getting bumped together in transport, getting knocked off tables, maybe even sitting out in the sun. You're in /tg/ so I'm sure that you know all this. You probably game all the time. What's the last game that you played? Also, post WIP, because this is the WIP general.

If you're not working on something right now, I understand. Given your experience with painting though, I'm sure that you have all sorts of painted minis. Would you mind posting some pics of them? We like pics of painted minis here.
>>
>>98607071
>getting bumped together in transport, getting knocked off tables, maybe even sitting out in the sun
those are legitimate reasons to clear coat your minis. not because you think it will patch over shitty priming. I have been perfectly clear about what I am arguing and have given practical examples that back it up. you are willfully ignoring it because you want to make it seem like you are right so people who don't know better will join your side. you are being malicious and a negative contribution to the thread.
>>
>>98607107
Not that anon, if I prime white and I end up with some textures on the mini or other issues because of weather would a clear coat help with that?
Any recs to get started, products, etc?
>>
>>98607120
no, if you have orange peel or dry spray or some other problem it's indicative that something went wrong with your primer application. the correct solution is to strip it and do it again. putting a gloss coat over it isn't going to help for multiple reasons. first because the ability to self level is in the microinch scale while visible texture is going to be in the thousandths or hundredths of an inch scale. it's like how painting a brick wall doesn't get rid of the brick texture. even if you used a product meant to be built up and sanded smooth, you would still just be covering over flaws that might create underlying problems later down the road.

the one thing I will recommend no matter what you are using is to test everything on something expendable first. it's better to find out that something isn't spraying right on a piece of scrap you can throw out than on your model you already spent tons of effort on.
>>
>>98602043
nta but gfil /d/49LsYSgc
>>
>>98607156
I see, thanks
>>
I came across sponge techniques with makeup sponges recently. I had some of these stick sponges around but I wonder if the makeup ones are different. Are they finer in texture or something? I never seen one.
Also if anyone uses sponges, do you clean them afterwards or throwaway? Sounds like the paint could get caked in it easily. I already have trouble cleaning my drybrush.
>>
>>98607425
>I came across sponge techniques with makeup sponges recently
Did the AI overlord suddenly decided it was the time to shill sponging?
I've seen nonstop videos about this recently and suddenly got like 4 friends talking about it.
>>
>>98607440
quite likely, it has been on my mind for a long while, I even tried some on terrain with those stick ones some months ago
but yeah I just saw a vid pop up now that reminded me and finally made me make the minimal effort of posting the question about the makeup sponges that everyone seems to use
>>
>>98607425
I used the makeup sponges, super cheap one from a dollar store. They are much denser and give smoother results from my experience. And you can always tear off a tiny bit and use tweezers to get them in hard to reach places. After use i just put them under the tap and squeeze a few times.
>>
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>>98606619
>>98606697
>>98607031
brush sizes are arbitrary, not sure what this pic is supposed to show
picrel are some of my brushes, they are all a 2 except the carstyn
most are about 10€, the carstyn was 5, that davinci is about 15 around here, also 35 is kind of a long bristles series, 10 is shorter with less belly and is just 1 € less for the n1

in actual handling the gold gsw is kind of bad, the silver is better even tho is not fully natural hair, the palitra is great and feels better than the rosemary, haven't used much the other two yet

>>98606711
they are made by w&n, quality control varies for the same brushes of the same brand, if you have ever seen a bunch of brushes together at a hobby shop you can tell wich ones are better made
>>
>>98606772
mostly because tits are fat and exercise burns fat, a lot at that level, some even get reductions for comfort
i'm sure there's also some genetic predisposition an hormone related biases in elite athletes but i'm no biologist
>>
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>>98607655
There has to be a genetic thing, not all of them are flat. Here's a cyclist from my country.
>>
>>98607668
>cyclist
ok but that's all legs
>>
>>98607686
>Smartest anonymous tit expert
>>
>>98607694
WELL, I'LL HAVE YOU KNOW....
>>
>>98607686
Fat is evenly distributed.
>>
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>>98607668
no offense but that's not an elite athlete, she has won nothing, compare to an actual gold medallist
>>
>>98607701
Does that matter? She's a pro athlete with decent tits despite her training routine.
>>
>>98606096
yes
>>
>>98607702
it means she's not training as much (or as well) and still has a lot more body fat that the other one
look at any instacrap influencer muscle mommy, or bodybuilders, they have virtually no body fat and either have bolt ons or barely anything, i'm sure you can also find the progression of some
ofc genetics matter but tits are fat and if you go below ~15% body fat, they gone, this anon is right >>98607700

anon's tit-witches are marvelous but unrealistic for top trained assasins (not that it matters)
>>
>>98607734
I don't think the person that trains the hardest wins.

But yeah, those witches obviously use magic to enhance their abilities (and their tits) instead of training physically.
>>
>>98607734
>anon's tit-witches are marvelous but unrealistic for top trained assasins
excellent observation, anon
>>
>>98606697
The bottom one looks synthetic
>>
File: 20260902_220501.jpg (1.91 MB, 3000x3669)
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Working on the head, it'll look better whonce it gets hit with the Ultra Matte.
>>
>>98601634
>not 'plein airbrushing'
>>
Glorious knocker anon is doing the lord's work. And trying to apply logic in the face of him making all our huge titted desires come true (In a setting that has magic. Explaining shit. Ain't gotta. Etc.) is heresy

MOOORREEEEEEE.

(My one request would the chain link being bent in the middle to help simulate the tremendous stress it's under.)
>>
>>98607033
>>98607039
Apparently it also works with thin steel wool, which is also less likely to get soaked.
>>
>>98607650
>Gsw brushes
Lmao
>>
>>98608307
mine was good but it went blunt because I'm a retard and tried to trim a stray hair
>>
>>98608307
the silver ones are okay, the gold ones are bad for the price and the green ones are your usual synthetics
i always buy some odd brushes to fill orders and test them
>>
>>98607650
Winsor & Newton don't make brushes. W&N Series 7 at least is made by crown artist brush.
>>
>>98608115
that guy made me realize half of you are desperate coomers.
>>
>>98608548
>muh coomer
shut the fuck up
>>
File: jade officer.jpg (2.13 MB, 5408x2464)
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Just about finished this guy last night, minus a couple areas I need to touch up.
>>
>>98608548
You are not one of us
>>
>>98608562
struck a nerve, cumbrain?
>>
>>98608346
well ok, they make them for gw too, the same as the series7, what i meant is that it's the same product
>>
>>98608548
They are the original fa/tg/uys. Wizards in their 40s deserve their outlet, let them be.
>>
>>98608571
>>98608548
I think you should leave, you are not one of us
>>
>>98608548
Don't deny your masculine appetite.
>>
You control the models that you paint.
>>
>>98608583
stop with that bullshit, this is /wip/, go back posting your work.
>>
>>98608115
But anon, I prefer normal size tits.
>>
>>98608591
I do
YANOOU
>>
>>98608548
Are you one of those turbogay puritanical zoomer faggots?
>>
Anons who batch paint, what is your process? How many minis do you work on at a time, and do you do 1 color at a time or 1 section (e.g. leather or armor panels) at a time? How do you avoid missing stuff?

>t. slowfag
>>
>>98608563
Kinda racist how he isnt african
>>
>>98608824
5 to 20 at a time, a color at a time to limit switching between paints, a simple checklist can help avoid missing stuff, otherwise just pay attention.

Not having to switch paints all the time is the main reason why batch painting saves time. You don't have to pour out new paint and wash your brushes every few minutes. The other reason is getting into a routine of doing (for example) a bunch of leather pouches in a row, so you get used to it and do them quicker/cleaner.
>>
>>98606279

Godspeed anon, godspeed. Where'd you find the chain link?

>>98608824

Up to a dozen if there are some details like belt buckles, armour trim etc. Of course you work on a smaller group the more finicky details there are on the minis. But if you just need to give them an ink wash, you can do bigger groups.
When I batch paint, I try to add at least one layer of paint to the group. Usually two, three if I'm really pushing it.
The hardest part is going back and fixing small mistakes and omissions, it feels the most Sisyphean.
>>
>>98608824
I typically do 5-10 minis at a time, any more than that and you risk feeling like you're making no progress.
>How do you avoid missing stuff?
That's the neat part...
>>
I just had an idea.
What if you painted a mini, clearcoated it, and then deliberately applied a layer of a more fragile paint on top. The fragile paint will naturally wear off the high areas as you use the mini, so you'll get natural wear patterns on your whole squad/army.
After you've finished your current league/campaign/tourny/whatever, you apply another layer of clear coat to lock in the wear pattern.
>>
>>98608919(me)
Obviously you'd just do this on the armour panels, not like the skin or something.
>>
>>98608919
it will look like torn paint and not to-scale wear and tear
>>
>>98608919
>you'll get natural wear patterns
Big greasy thumbs aren't natural wear patterns, unless you're playing a land of the giants campaign.
>>
>>98608919
It will be out of scale.
You can just use hairspray chipping and varnish. It takes a bit of training to master, but it's the best way of doing fast, chipped material.
>>
File: IMG_7541.jpg (352 KB, 1062x1207)
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Progress on Ahriman's disc. The runes came out better than I thought. There's so much fucking detail on this thing, I almost don't want to paint the underside but my autism compels me.
>>
>Johnny standing next to one of the three models I've painted so far this year
Less time working, more time painting would be nice.
>>
>>98607425
I've seen some people use melamine sponges too which are super fine
>>
>>98608852
>Godspeed anon, godspeed. Where'd you find the chain link?
I found it arrayed in connection with other links of similar magnitude and extent, so that they had formed a rope-like length. It's just cheap jewelry chain anon.
>>
>>98608563
Looks awesome, sword is very cool. Not 100% sold on the gold nmm tho
>>
>>98608592
Let the mega milk homies have this one. Sharing is caring



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