Amnesty from the purge will extend for another thread

Anyone have some STL's for dark eldar wyches?

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>My main Telegram resources nuked (RIP Rustyforge)
>Actually considering SDP patreon
There's gotta be a better way to find a new Telegram channel/stl repository without shelling out money.

>>98724361
Nvm found some by reaching out to some regulars I had DM'd from the old channels

>>98722410
There was once a time when /3dpg/ reached bump level. What happened?

>>98724374
You actually talk to people on telegram?

Does anyone know where to find good free cavemen/stone age hunter minis?

>>98725265
not free but stoneaxeminiatures on cults is cheap, more than reasonable prices and no bundles, completely avoids the biggest STL sales issues.

>>98724558
Posting activity goes up and down with the average temperature in the northern hemisphere. During the winter, people are less likely to print because of the cold, so they are also less likely to discuss printing online.

>>98726022
Must be an idiot problem because you can't live here without indoor heating.

>>98726507
>printing indoors

>>98726807
Oh yes the genius move is to put UV curing material out in the sunlight while you need it to remain uncured.

>>98726849
the move is to print in enclosed large areas, such as garages. those tend not to have indoor heating.

>>98726903
>large
You need 1-2 cubic feet.
It's a household countertop appliance, figure it out.

>>98726022
My issue mostly is that the wind off the coast blasts all the fumes from the extractor back into the house in the late autumn, winter, and early spring.

>>98727088
That's fine, they're far less harmful than a lot of things you don't worry about in everyday life.

>>98723534
Nevermind on the wyches, got that covered.
Would someone have a good stl for kabalites and or guardians?

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Have a pic of some fdm slop

Been eyeing up a guy close to me selling a used anycubic mono 4k with wash and cure station (plus some ipa and resin) for $180aud
Is it worth it for this used machine? Or better to hold out and wait for a better deal on a better/bigger machine.
Mostly seem to see only elegoo mentioned here, so I'm not sure how anycubic stacks up

>>98728522
depends on how heavily used, why is he getting rid of it? that's less than the cost of the printer for the whole deal but what parts does it need to be restored to function? Or is he just selling it because he's scared of fumes and regrets the choice of buying something he doesn't understand?
Frankly the wash and cure station is incredibly unnecessary, you can use a couple old glass jars full of isopropyl to wash and a windowsill to cure.
I'd lean to suggesting you just buy a new mono 4, used printers have a lot in common with prostitutes, can be good for a one-off thing but don't marry one.

>>98728522
its a good deal if you can buy a replacement screen for it on aliexpress. be sure to ask how many hours has he run the screen for.

>>98728221
Nah, I don't feel a particular need to huff acrylate VOCs. The odor even lingers for a few days when it gets blown back in.

>>98728522
Draw out the print volume on some paper to help you better visualize it. Think about the stuff you want to print and whether or not it's going to fit in that space. It's a decent printer with no frills (they didn't have many frills at the time, tbf)
Make sure they don't try to dump old resin off on you. The general rule of thumb is about 2 years before it starts going downhill.

What's the last set of releases by emang? Was it Tamurkhan and the toad dragon or was there anything past that?

Whom makes nice shieldmaiden cavalry?

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>>98728564
>>98728596
I will check all this out first before thinking too much
>>98728777
This was my first surprise with resin printing, is how small the build volumes are
Although the concern is more about whether the printer is worth the money at second hand anyway
Thanks anons

Better image after some photo research, since the last one was shit

Does anybody has the STL for the Macharius Tank from solutionlesn?
Or can point me in the direction where to find it (would even pay for it).
Found it on one site but there is a problem with Paypal.

>>98726022
>>98727088
That makes sense.

>>98729344
>>98728522
I can't wait until FDM reaches resin quality. Though I wonder what resin printers will be like by then.

>>98730967
I mean, can you even improve on perfection?
The printers are not an issue, slicers need to improve.

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>>98722410
Anyone know of or have an stl for the land speeder tornado in visions of heresy? Early variant I suppose. I want the blocky nose

>>98731055
If only they could get DLP costs down, but I think part of the issue is the manufacturers drop product support quickly for the next model and they could always make money selling LCDs as a consumable while forcing customers to move to a whole new unit after parts costs start to go up as they become harder to find.

>>98731055
>The printers are not an issue, slicers need to improve
The printers soon will be an issue if DRM and government autism gets involved.

>>98733619
The US state laws are ridiculous. I forget which state it was, threw in subtractive manufacturing controls into their bill too. There's no way they're going to be able to get AI to id firearm parts effectively.

>>98733687
28mm sci-fi gun STLs for 28mm scale miniatures are going to trigger false positives that it will be annoying.

>>98733619
Put a firewall on your slicer and never update it, keep backups of older versions too just incase
Has worked well for me you can't get ads with the firewall on either

>>98733163
>they could get DLP costs down
They won't. The market has already spoken. Like SLA, the advantages are more hypothetical than realized, the disadvantages are very real and inherent to the technology, and at the end of the day you're paying more money for a less capable machine. Nobody was interested in these except for autists that don't print, which is why they didn't sell. There may be space for these at the industrial end of the market, but hobbyists just aren't willing to pay that much. Which brings us to...

>I think part of the issue is the manufacturers drop product support quickly for the next model
Absolutely. The way that the market developed is the same way that most markets develop: the overwhelming majority of consumers prioritized low cost over quality and the manufacturers delivered. The reason why China can sell those giant LCD printers for $300 is because they've cut every corner possible on the individual components. The result is that these things often don't even make it out of warranty without failure if you're running them regularly, which the overwhelming majority of owners do not. For the average user, by the time it shits the bed you're outside of warranty and your repair options are limited to 2nd hand parts that may or may not last and cost nearly as much as next year's new model does, so you upgrade instead. And that new one will likely even be worse than the one it replaces because they're still cutting costs. You'll see no long term support among the low end manufacturers because turnover is the name of the game. It's just like kitchen appliances. They didn't start churning out cheap pieces of shit to screw you, they did it because that's what you wanted to buy.

>>98735530
>you want to buy this because you buy this
Guck off, there's no alternative, if we didnt buy them they wouldnt build better, they abandon the idea.
Cheap and "disposable" they may be, i've still saved many thousands by having one instead of buying models from any company, not just gw

>>98735530
The up front cost of DLP is higher and TI was the go-to for the projectors, so that didn't help at all for market interest. Another issue is the print volume wasn't great to what LCDs were starting to push out at the time.

I still have an old aF classic Photon that I heavily modded during the lock down but I don't run it these days because I got stuck during an upgrade. I needed to machine out the aluminum top to accommodate a frame for a larger LCD. I might end up printing the part on an FDM. It's turning into a Printer of Theseus.

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What the fuck did I print guys.
I suspect its a slicer problem and not a screen problem because the next print came out mostly fine with only a few of these weird columns sticking from under my ships.
Mars 5 Ultra, Elegoo translucent 2.0+, Lychee slicer on automatic supports that I check every time.

>>98736052
I'd bet there is a problem with your files, run them through meshmixers inspector and your slicers inspector

>>98736052
The model you printed was probably broken, broken/loose vertexes or the mesh wasn't fully sealed
Always good to take them into blender and inspecting them just in case if it's a poorly made model or a scan, a lot of the time clueless people will leave random extra vertex bits on and prints end up like this

>>98735550
>there's no alternative
Are you retarded or a noprintz?
>i've still saved many thousands by having one
Ah, retarded it is then. Or maybe you're just lying. I suppose that we'll see if you stick around.

>>98736357
Don't talk about retarded when you can't do math, the price of resin figures vs figures from companies is an orders of magnitude difference.
At BEST you're saying you bought a stupid expensive printer and barely use it, whereas my cheap reasonably priced printer runs near nonstop 6-8 months a year.
Yes I have saved thousands especially if we look at gw prices.
I once made a space marine army of about 100 dudes with accompanying vehicles, etc... and it cost $1200. The same army printed is about $100. I have printed many times that volume of minis.
Fuck off dipshit.

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>>98736458
Are you being deliberately stupid? I'm talking about printers you autistic fuck. Of course it's cheaper to buy a piece of shit and run it until it dies than it is to buy overpriced toys. Nobody is arguing otherwise. What I'm arguing (and what you were originally also arguing, until you sperged out and moved the goalposts) is that they're not all cheap pieces of shit, and you didn't have to buy a cheap piece of shit.
>At BEST you're saying you bought a stupid expensive printer and barely use it, whereas my cheap reasonably priced printer runs near nonstop 6-8 months a year.
Projecting, or just lying? These are my two cheapies. The Mars 2 arrived with a dead screen but has been problem free since; Elegoo was still making good stuff when they were new to the market. The Saturn 3 has been repaired twice under warranty. Not pictured is my Heygears (which has been problem free) nor my Saturn 2, which was out of warranty when it shat the bed for the second and final time and the cost of repair didn't make sense, so I threw it out. Believe it or not, there are a few of us in this thread that are not Indian, not fat, not unemployed, and do in fact own and use printers. Some of us have been doing it for a while in fact. That Mars 2 was purchased new. I'm a bit embarrassed by what I paid for it but again, they were using higher quality components back then because we hadn't yet convinced them not to.

Now that you've seen (some of) my printers, let's see one of yours.

>>98736458
Flying fortress of FACTS
You will save infinitely more with a printer on top of the machine itself holding good value
Never regretted getting mine and I haven't even used it that much, still paid itself off in literally a month

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>>98737529
>my printers
lol

>>98737752
kek, assholes here are always projecting

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>>98737735
May we see it?

>>98737752
>implying that a major defense contractor is printing toy army men with two old elegoo printers in a grow tent
There's no fooling you, anon. You truly are the sharpest hammer in the sack. Earlier I asked whether you were retarded or a noprintz, but I hadn't considered that you were probably both. Since you're more interested in what's on my wall than in 3D printers, picrel is a better shot of it. Feel free to post that pic of your printer at any time.
>straight from fairbanks morse hq, right down the hall from the ceo's office
>which hasn't been located in chicago since 1958

>>98739468
And samefags and retards will never learn just how easy it is to spot them.

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>>98740247
Not either of those anons but i agree with them.
ignore the cardboard against the wall, didn't want to dox my location so covered up some stuff quickly

>>98740247
Anon we know there are expensive models, but there is nothing between the shitbox honda civic of printers and the ferrari of printers, going more expensive at the low end doesnt mean better, it just means bigger (which is it's own kind of worse).
spend a couple hundred dollars to last a few years and return many times over that in models, or spend a few thousand to get the exact same end result in miniature quality.
Only an idiot goes expensive in that case, and as your equipment shows, even you aren't that stupid.

>>98740247
Oh and if you have a resin printer that works, why the fuck did you buy another?

>>98740606
Honestly, coming from a classic Photon, I don't need the auto resin feeding, chamber heating, or the exhaust. I don't even use a wash and cure station, preferring water curing. It takes a little longer but I'm not in a hurry.
If I'd like anything, it would maybe be the stress sensor or the tilting separation, but at the top of the list would be build volume without having frigging holes in the plate because I like my magnetic plates.

>>98741156
Build volume isnt desirable to me, all FEP sheets are the same thickness, thus suction failures increase with size.
tilt does help, but you're adding complex moving parts; a whole new point of failure.
i agree on the rest, though i jar wash/flashlight cure.
printer only needs to be big enough for 28mm figurines, bigger things can be split, smaller prints = more success

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>>98740247
Built a wooden air tight box for it and put a vent tube made an dryer tube out of the back and just stuff the tube to seal the air flow when not in use

>>98741189
Suction hasn't been an issue for me so far. Larger build volume is relative though, I'm still on a 132x80 screen, so I'm shooting for what might be considered mid size by the end of the year (because there's probably a good chance I won't be able to buy a printer next year with state laws ramping up.) I don't really expect to run into any major problems with peel force management on a larger build plate considering the things I'm printing and how I set up my prints. Still, I'd like to give the tilt separation a shot and see if I can get faster prints. I tinker enough I'm generally confident I can fix any mechanical issues. I get the concern about stacking on potential failure points though.

I wash my stuff in tubs, fresh very warm water on the final to remove supports. The curing is in water, as mentioned, but on top of a mirror under the sun. I'd like to print a few vehicles and the occasional large creature without chopping things up too much or running a bunch of plates, hence the larger build volume.

>>98740606
>but there is nothing between the shitbox honda civic of printers and the ferrari of printers
Oh, you sweet summer child.
>it's just as good
>you're just paying for the name
>it's cheap because labor is cheap over there
>it's probably all made at the same factory
>warranty is the same with both companies, if something goes wrong they have to take care of me
It's all cope my man.

>>98740611
The Mars was to see whether I would like this or not. The first Saturn followed because I wanted more build volume and better resolution. The second Saturn followed because the first Saturn kept dying. The Heygears followed because the second Saturn also keeps dying and I finally realized that I was simply replacing pieces of shit with more pieces of shit, and the correct answer was to stop buying pieces of shit.

>>98740599
>>98741347
We actually have some people with printers in this thread! Hell yes! Probably no one that I was arguing with, but this cheered me up anyway. And don't sweat the wall anon. There are certain people that get hung up on walls in threads about 3D printing but I'm not one of them.

>>98742414
you invented a whole lot of shit i didnt say
unless you honeslty believe the difference between a ferrari and a honda is just the name?

>>98742414
>Probably no one that I was arguing with
oh you sweet summer child

>>98742414
I'm not the wall guy but thanks, I take pride in the BOX and my printer that I love very much :)

>>98742414
>And don't sweat the wall anon.
oh and as to this, no i am not letting 4chan have the phone directory to my local community and an aerial photo of the farm.
shia labouf gave even less to go on, im not having anyone here just show up to my place.

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>vat screw affixing block strips on Saturn 4 Ultra
>get replacement
>go to swap it out
>screws are so absurdly tight that I literally cannot get them to budge even with WD-40
>screwheads round
>in desperation try cutting away the block so I can free the screws up more easily
>still stuck
I think this thing is fucked and all for want of one tiny piece and a pair of screws. Now what? I'm not in a position to just buy a new one.

>>98745292
If it was absurdly tight that you can't turn it by hand, you probably don't want to force it or you'd damage the threading. Probably should contact the vendor and see if you could get a replacement. Alternatively, if you could take the part in question, or an example of the proper screw, you can just go to a hardware store and get something for it, getting a washer if you need the surface contact.

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Have any of y'all tried formlabs tough resin, or anything like it?
I have a Phrozen mighty 4k, an have exclusively used the grey 4k resin in all my stuffs. It prints beautifully, but it's brittle as fuck, so I am curious about trying other resins.
I've also seen y'all talk about mixing resins and stuff, but I am too chickenshit to try, cuz I don't know what I am doing an don't wanna screw anything up. I know I'd need to like, change the settings if I mix resins, and I haven't really messed with that; I just plug in my stuff to chitubox and it does it for me.
ALSO, do y'all recommend something other than chitubox? It's what had originally came with my phrozen printers, and I really liked it before, when it was simple an i didn't have ta log in every time, but now it sucks, and I haven't print anything since.

>>98745820
Been using Anycubic ABS 3.0 mixed with 20% tough. Works well enough I don't worry about dropping things. Really long thin details were still breaking until I lowered my exposure and curing times.
Try and find an older copy of Chitu or Lychee. Something before the account bullshit. I'm waiting to see what happens with the Soulcrafted slicer idea.

>>98745852
NTA, but i would love a link to the old pre-account lychee.
as it is I am running version 4.1 IIRC? I don't let it update but many choices are disabled like certain infill patterns for fdm and other random shit.

>>98745357
Never mind, I fixed it. Had to use a sodding great wrench to loosen the chunks of affixing block (and the screws with them, which weren't completely rounded thank god) and was able to get them free and replace the piece.
I have no idea why they were so tight though.

>>98745852
OH!
I might be able to find one of the flash drives that came with a printer and had an old version of chitubox on it!

>>98746009
did you coppercoat the threads of the new screws?

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What exactly is Elegoo detergent? I forgot to order some with my resin wash/cure station and was wondering if there is anything generic I could use in the machine?

I have IPO and many other solvents for manual cleaning but would prefer to use the machine.

>>98747987
they already got you for the wash/cure station boondoggle so "in for a penny in for a pound" may as well buy their magic juice too

>>98742510
>>98742518
Based schizoposter.

>>98745820
>tough resin
20% Tenacious mixed with a cheap resin of your choice is the mix usually recommended. Some will swear that it's drop proof. It's not, but it is a bit less brittle than cheap resin on its own. Bear in mind that in most cases, "tough" resins are going to be thicker than the cheap stuff, so make sure to heat your resin and/or slow down the print speed or you're going to have problems. 3 minutes is too long of a cure, try 1.5-2 instead. Other resins I like:
>tenacious easy gray is pretty good
>only went through 2kg elegoo tough so far but seems just as tough but thinner
>paf10 is the goat for heygears, at least as impact resistant as HIPS

>do y'all recommend something other than chitubox
I recommend anything other than shitubox. I've used three different versions since 2020 and each one has gotten progressively slower, more bloated, and less stable than the one before it. I'm stuck with it for slicing for my Elegoos but I do everything else in Prusa.
>lychee
Tried it years ago and didn't like how counterintuitive it was. Maybe it's better now.
>prusa
Good for fixing shitty stl's, orienting, and supporting. Not great, but good. You'll almost certainly need something else for slicing.
>blueprint
I see a lot of complaints about it online but I'm not sure why, probably because Heygears locks you into it. My main bitches about it are that it's shit at auto layout (not a problem, I'd rather do that on my own anyway) and there's no button for "select all," requiring a keyboard shortcut instead. There's nothing wrong with keyboard shortcuts but they shouldn't be necessary for an operation that's going to happen every time I lay out a build plate.

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Morning. Is it better to drop my STL collection (not even 400GB I think) onto my PC and reorganize everything then put them back into my external hard drive?
Also does Myminifactory have a "bulk download" feature I may have consistently missed?

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>>98722410
How do I find an STL buygroup for STL models on the piracy app?
I found some good stuff but they're a bit overpriced, but actually well made and they aren't well known.
>>98748953
Seconding this.

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So recently I got a couple of STLs of SoB proxies, but they come with the backpack already joined to the model. I have no experience with 3D editing (I have meshlab and blender, but I haven't time to go beyond the most basic of basics), is there a decent tutorial on how to delete the bit and then cover it so it gives no issues during printing?

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>>98748008
>they already got you for the wash/cure station boondoggle so "in for a penny in for a pound" may as well buy their magic juice too

:(((

The price was right anon, I just wanted a 3rd party cure station but because of the sale the Elegoo wash/cure magic box was basically the same price so I went for it. It's finally arrived it and states the cleaning liquid used must be at least 95% alcohol so clearly I just have to squirt some dish soap into my normal IPO. Does the purple coloured denatured alcohol work? because I have a bunch of that too.

Also does it mark me out as a retard whose doomed to fail if I accidentally arc flashed myself during the reference point setting and UV test?

>>98757909
We can suffer together. In my defense it was a good deal.

I felt a bump on my screen when cleaning the tank, somehow there had been a leak on the lcd, no wonder my last few prints came out with delaminations and deformations. Now i just have to figure out where the leak started, as the tank and the FEP is fine. Maybe a slight overfill? But i feel like that would leave a trace on the outside of the tank.

>>98757909
>>98758359
All you need is a sunlit windowsill and a (washed) pickle jar.

>>98756463
this is one of the reasons I purposefully almost exclusively print scans

Depending on how the model was made, it can either be really easy or really hard to separate the backpack. From the pictures you've taken, it looks like it might not be easy.

I also dont see why it would give you issues during printing

meshmixer - > edit -> separate shells.

if this doesn't separate the different meshes you're gonna have to do it yourself

edit -> generate face groups, mess with the sliders until you feel like you can select them well

double click on each colored section and either delete it or whatever you can. You will be left with one (or several) gaping holes in your model. For small holes go to analysis -> inspector and auto fill them. For big holes I tend to meshmix some basic shapes to get them covered, then edit -> make solid for the whole thing.

>>98758750

how much bullshit do you need to scan stuff good enough to get good copies? because I've got a complete 1997 Zerker sprue I'd love to print 50 more of instead of the 5 minis on it.

>>98758750
>Check the separate shells
>It's a single block
Damn. Guess I'll have to erase it manually...

>>98760640
frustrating, i can tell the creator didnt make it as a single shell, they just exported it as a solid when they were done.
it really bugs me when that happens as digital kitbashing is a big thing for me so I appreciate it when the creator leaves the shells so I can select each detail on it's own easily.

>>98760640
oh btw, where'd you get this sob? she looks good, id be tempted to print her and add her to this inquisitorial retinue ive had on pause for painting almost a year now.

>>98760762
https://www.myminifactory.com/frontier/nun-squad-ii-5341

I swear, between my old metal minis and the mix & match 3d printed SoBs, I wonder if my army is not going to look consistent.

>>98761820
man, some of these look alright but
>sob, but with low poly bow and arrows
>sob, buth with a scythe like an anime girl
>sob, but with a Barrett M82
>that's it, a simple normal fucking Barrett M82
and I could keep listing them...

>>98762453
and worse, they're bundled

>>98762453
I know. I only have half of the bundle, and I want 2-3 for HQs. I wanted to take some of their bolters/swords and replace them with some other 3d weapons (I wonder if 30k marine weapons would work on them), but between the backpacks and those, trying to edit the models is becoming too much work.

>>98761820
>>98762453
I need some commissar imperial guard looking models. Bonus points if closer to the old heroic scale before the kneepads. But kneepad proportion commissars are fine if someone has found a way to "resize" them to "chunkier" proportions before 2022 if that's the year the new Cadians came out.

>>98764210
Cults has a few for free.

>>98764483
I managed to miss those.
Can I get links in Nurgle's rot or the Nintendo encryption, please?

>>98764540
its free files on cults3d all i did was search commissar

>>98764710
I thought this would involve complicated searches.
Thanks.
I already found a bunch of other paid for STLs that I'm gonna have to check around the channels I'm in to see if they're already archived otherwise my wallet will hurt.

>>98764813
GW can't trademark commissar so its one of the easy ones

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Waiting on my first first batch of OOP minis. Recasting bits didn't fill me with anxiety like this maybe because that binary liquid resin stuff takes 12 hours to dry but in an hour I'll know if shit worked.

I feel like I'll either have a usable Epic Stompers™ chaos dreadnought or a pile of congealed nostroman bat guano covering my build plate with no middle ground since I set the reference plane as sweet enough it would work for a Tornos-Deco and I used all the manufacturer recced settings.

>>98765181

Everything turned out shockingly ok. The only defects were the underside of some epic scale tanks had a few bubbled up soggy layers. This wasn't where they attached to the baseplate (that was perfectly dry) but 2-3mm up from that on the underside of the hull.

Would lowering my layer height from 50 microns to 10 microns have any effect on fidelity for tiny 6mm infantry minis? there weren't any visible layers it just some of the detail was idk maybe slightly poorly defined, not as sharp angles as the model.

>>98758398
Did you seriously not remove the tank and look? That will tell you exactly what the problem is.

Is there some obvious stuff I could print and sell at my local weekly market to recoup the cost of an Heygears? I live in a highly touristic area with a medieval flair to it.

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I've got some scans which are a bit rough, is there a way to "restore" the sharpness of the sculpt? Something to correct the "noise" that's inherent to 3D scans.

I'm looking into the thread links, but in case it's not there / not up to date I'm posting here too.

>>98766989
Follow up
Looks like I have 2 choices
1) learn retopology / quad remesher
2) find a better STL

>>98766792
I can only think of toy soldiers but those would be a bit too big for resin, maybe? I dont know

a keychain/keyring dongle, maybe with the name of the town printed out, in some stylish form (make AI do the design). maybe some classic design from any tourist town, like "I [heart] Barcelona" or shit like that

then lastly I would guess you could print fun gizmos and/or toys, little finger gadgets, but I dont know

>>98765914
Might be over or under exposed if your details are a bit blobby, depending on how they are. If you're getting weird saggy parts and it's from surfaces running parallel to the build plate, that's what's causing it. Try to angle surfaces from the build plate. It becomes more supporting that way. If you have surfaces running parallel to the build plate, it starts to sag like cloth on tent poles.

>>98765914
>>98769950 (me)
Forgot to add that you might want to run a quick calibration print to dial in the fine details if they're coming in under/over exposed

>>98766989
Blender sculpt mode and the crease brush

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>>98769950
>If you're getting weird saggy parts and it's from surfaces running parallel to the build plate, that's what's causing it.

Idk if I'd call it sagging but we may be meaning the same thing.. The bottom couple layers on any large flat surface parallel to the build plate has some layers delaminate and bubble up like blisters.

Thanks for the advice anon. I plan on running small batches of small highly detailed minis that should hopefully help me dial things in while printing something I need loads of

Any good free female heads compatible for SoBs? I have accumulated a fair bit of stl bits for a sororitas army, but I'd like to see if I can add some variety to the sculpts.

Where do I find discords, telegram groups or patreons? I'm looking for some STLs but the situation seems hopeless

I know at least one of you has the wargameexclusive kroot lone rider (the one with the boobs)
I would like to know if standard kroot heads fit on the lady kroot at default scale or if it'll need scaled up to not be a total bobblehead

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DaffMakes wants (You) to know that MidwinterMinis did nothing wrong.

>Printventory
>Free and open source. Index STL and 3MF files where they already live — with search, tags, duplicates, and AI-assisted organization.

Sounds pretty cool, I'ma try it out when I get home next week. Gonna leave these links here in case anyone's interested:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5se4e-Oi8ac

https://printventory.com/

>>98782262
All of my STLs are compressed into zips or rars though. Otherwise my 1.5TB of STLs would be even larger.

>>98782272
It supports zip according to the FAQ. It didn't mention any other archival compression though

>>98782262
>.com
>offering a free program
when a service is free the commodity is you. i wont be allowing some random company access to my library to pass on to copyright holders tyvm. also buy a banner faggot

Is there a good way of having two gram accounts on a single phone/phone number? I want to use that instead of Discord but I am also subbed to a good 40k proxy maker who's tribes models are never publicly released.
I tend to download and share the files. My problem is I fear the creator eventually finding out and getting mad at me.
Right now my current gram name is the same name I use for the cord so my buddies can easily recognize me when we use it.
If this is possible I can turn my current one for preserving models and pirating models to a random name and use another one for with friends.

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Ran out of my Siraya and bought some more resin. Thought I'd try out Sunlu's ABS-like and holy shit I am never going back to anything else now (sorry Siraya, you served me well). There is no way something this cheap should be this good. Need to dial in the settings a little bit still, but anyway.
Tested it out with a pair of Scrungaloids and also this digital kitbashed Marine I made. The shoulder pad is Siraya as I forgot to print one on this batch.

>>98783120
What specific Sunlu color? Sounds good as I've had Sunlu in my sights.
>Scrungaloids
I think some of those got taken down. Can you share them, please? Preferably if you have all of them?

>>98782784
I'm not sure if it still works, but you can try getting a google voice number to see if you can make a separate account.

>>98783376
Just the standard grey. And yeah, definitely worth it.
As for the Scrungaloids I'm 99.9% sure they're still up on a certain purple site for free. Everything's been compiled into one listing, with excellent presupports too. Unless there's a specific one you're looking for that I'm not aware of.

Anyone have the old Forest Dragon sculpts for Vampires? A while back I did a purge of a lot of STLs and must have nuked all my FD files.

>>98784812
>Scrungaloids
they are in our own resource area

I'm sure this is because I've not figured out the right witty way of naming it without naming the trademark, but does anyone know if there are files for tau pathfinder arms in the old style (no triangle bicep pads)?

>>98787156
fish people scout

>>98783120
Hard agree on the stuff, it's shockingly good for it's price, and they have fairly regular bulk sales as well that are worth keeping an eye on.

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Im having a problem with this 3d model.
in my slicer it looks fine, but the moment I put it in my slicer, the arms are all wrong with islands and layers missing, if I try to fix it, the slicer removes the arms, and doing it in lychee claims that is impossible to fix.

Is it possible to fix it in blender? the creator of the model claims it works fine for him, but it doesn't for me.

and before you complain about "toy", it is for a miniature game, just not the one you like.

>>98792795
Looks like you need to flip the normals. It's basically the direction the polygons are facing. Right now, it's inverted, like turning a sock made of two way mirrors inside out.

>>98792795
>>98793218
Also, yes, you should be able to fix it in Blender. You should be able to find a quick tutorial on the tubes

where should I start to learn about 3d printing in relation to minis if I know absolutely nothing about it. I want to learn and not be ignorant.

>>98793329
check the videos at op, and if they dont work, ask again.

Does anyone know of any decent tutorials on sharpening the detail or improving the resolution of stl scans?

>>98792795

On this topic.

How big do cavities have to be before they are an issue? Satellite measured the void at 0.67 and it's small enough I can't really add a hole smaller than it.

How do I fix it? UVTOOLS? I've never used it because I just check things in the slicer but repairing it in Satelite does nothing.

>>98794397
clear resin and then just cure the liuid resin in the void after printing.
I generally don't worry about "errors" that lychee cannot fix.

>>98794397
Certain types of voids are fairly straightforward and easy fixes. I usually use Meshmixer for that and just separate shells, then select and delete the voids. Using Blender is typically more involved but it's a more powerful tool. Other kinds of voids can't be fixed and would need a bit more surgery, where you'd have to edit the geometry because they for part of a contiguous mass that's been folded on itself to create a pocket.
As for trapped resin and safe minimums, it's hard to say. A big factor is exposure and pixel resolution as far as what gets cured out of existence during the printing process. Post print, there's the wall thickness versus the pocket size to consider, but I've no experience in that and haven't done any reading on it. I've seen images a good while ago of models cracking open and weeping the goo though.

I almost forgot, you can drop some solid geometry into the model to deal with voids as well. You can probably remove all of the voids this way if you're patient, just just putting various sized primitive shapes on the voids, overlapping the void wall to make sure you fill it. You might need to go back and forth between the slicer and model editor to make sure you got everything if it's a particularly nasty mess. I was fixing this one model a friend of mine had custom made this way. It was a fucking mess even after I separated and deleted the shells.

I should also add that the breathing/drain holes probably should be a little on the wider side if you could manage it, because you'll want to clean out residue in post print. Some of my early prints from years ago were never fully rinsed clean because the holes were too small and a few years later started weeping uncured resin through them.

>>98795242
Edit: ..they form* part of a contiguous mass.
(It's kind of like how you see some video game models overlap on themselves. They have a continuous, unbroken, surface that will sometimes form pockets by overlap.)

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>Spend ages printing on Saturn 4 Ultra with regular raise and retract settings
>Only after getting the Sunlu realize that the tilting plate makes that unnecessary
On the one hand I've been wasting HOURS of needless print time, but on the other hand better late than never, and this took less than 8 hours to print. Hooray!
Really nice model, by Dr. Spork on MMF. Meant for FDM but works just as well in resin; I hollowed the main hull of course. Pair of Scrungaloids for scale.
Annoyingly, having managed to dial in the settings to near-perfection I am now compelled to print more stuff. I have loads of unpainted minis as is (printed and otherwise) but it's just so satisfying being able to print models this nice this easily.

>>98796212
... Why would it take more than 4 hours?
>t. photon mono 4 10k, no tilt

>>98796337
The main hull is in two halves and were printed standing fairly vertical. It's larger than it looks in the photo, about the length of a Rhino.

>>98796349
Hollow?

>>98796373
Yep, would have been a complete brick otherwise.

>>98796212
Also, you do realize that sculpt is a deoderant stick tube with a plastic spoon as the cockpit bubble, right?

>>98796381
Of course, however the files were £3 and I liked the extra detail. Plus I wanted to test out printing something larger with this resin.

>>98796379
Then I do not comprehend the print time.

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>>98796411
Exposure was 1.65s at 0.03mm layer height. I did try lowering exposure to 1.6 but that caused issues. The parts weren't quite standing straight up but they were very close to vertical, so it was quite a tall print. Also a decent rest time as I've noticed I tend to get support-side blobbing otherwise.
Settings FWIW.

>>98796434
You shouldn't normally need to change the exposure time from what you usually use if it hasn't been causing you problems. The entire build surface, minus the masked areas should get the same exposure and cure (the caveat pretty much being malfunctions). You'll shave off a ton of time by lowering height, if you can, since that impacts the number of layers and operations the printer needs to do. Solid vs hollow is mostly just a resin and separation force saving thing. You'll definitely get nicer surfaces with some wait time before light on. It gives the resin a little time to settle. Ameralabs had some papers worth looking at if you're into that sort of thing.

>>98796434
>2 extra second for every layer
There you go.

What are the basics of Blender when it comes to remixing STLs?
By remixing I mean deleting certain parts and then moving them onto another model.
What functions in Blender ensure that everything looks "smooth" in the sense that it would be hard to believe it a was a remix?

I saw the rear of a tank and I want to put it on the back of a similar looking tank, but I want the vertices (if that is the right word) of the real part of the tank to line up so it would be hard to notice it was a remixed model when printed and painted or even in the digital preview.

Also who here uses PRUSA? What does it get right and wrong? I have anycubic printers. I am just stuck with Linux because I got tired of Windows 11.

>>98800333
Oh boy, that's not a one post response and the simplest answer is: it is a learning process that will take you weeks to months if you're dedicated at it with either a lot of independent function exploration, or a lot of videos, either way lots of practice will be involved.
I use meshmixer and not blender, but even years after starting I still learn new tricks every now and then.

>>98800352
>Oh boy, that's not a one post response and the simplest answer is: it is a learning process
Fair enough. I was hoping it would be simpler and it was a longshot.
>I use meshmixer
By chance do you use it on Linux? I think there will be some work to get it working on an OS that isn't MAC or Windows. I haven't tried meshmixer before, but I should after I reorganize my STL folder.

>>98800333
>I saw the rear of a tank and I want to put it on the back of a similar looking tank, but I want the vertices (if that is the right word) of the real part of the tank to line up so it would be hard to notice it was a remixed model when printed and painted or even in the digital preview.

Hard surface modeling is easier in some ways. Without seeing the model, the overall process would probably go something like
>slicing off the face of the part to be transplanted, probably leaving a bit of the 'base'
>line it up to the part you want to use and size it to where you want it
>slice off chunks of the original part that you don't want that might be sticking out
>fit the new part properly and make sure it's up against the original part. A little overlap where they touch would help to make sure they're actually connected
>define the two parts as a single object or otherwise make a boolean union, then export it

It looks like meshmixer isn't available for Linux. You can try Blender though. I don't know of any other Linux friendly program, unfortunately.

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Does anyone have LoggyKs mk7?

pic related

(How the fuck do i find things on telegram?)

>>98796212
I still don't fully understand the widespread desire to print faster if we're talking about minis that are going to get painted. When considering the process from stl to finished product, print time is not the bottleneck. It's just that thing that happens in the background. Whether it takes one hour to print or eight, it's still going to be hanging on the build plate waiting for me when I get home from work or wake up in the morning.

>>98800333
>who here uses PRUSA
I use it for orienting and supporting stuff that's going to get printed on my Elegoos because I hate shitubox so much. I'm still stuck with it for slicing, but I do everything else in Prusa. It makes for a clunky work flow but did I mention how much I fucking despise Chitu?
>also use it for my old mk4

>>98803152
Right? When I first got a printer I had printed 6 months of painting backlog in my first 48 hours.

>>98796434
>35 second burn in layer
Yikes, are we still doing this? This was solved years ago, you're just cooking your screen and making it difficult to remove the print from the plate. For reference my bottom layer time is 6 seconds and my wait before print time is 30 seconds.

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;/

I printed the same plate twice and had different models on it fail. Is it the resin? or an issue with supports that only sometimes fails? The plate was completely cleaned and dry between prints.

My print settings haven't changed since I was printing literally the same type of model successfully only from a different file.

>>98804281
Could be the temperature, we're heading into the colder months, so that could play a role.

>>98802443
Thanks anon!
>You can try Blender though. I don't know of any other Linux friendly program, unfortunately.
That's okay. I am gonna have to learn Blender anyway.
The problem is a lot of chatter on /g/ is saying that I dun goof'd by making my Linux machine be built of AMD GPU and CPU and Blender seems mostly geared for Nvidia graphics cards because Nvidia stuff tends to be stronger hardware while AMD is more bang for one's buck.
Also AMD stuff supposedly just works on Linux far more than Nvidia so I used AMD parts to "lessen the Linux hassle" when I was getting in.

At least PRUSA looks promising to work for 3D printing miniatures. Are there any hiccups it has with Anycubic 3D printers?

>>98803152
>I use it for orienting and supporting stuff that's going to get printed on my Elegoos because I hate shitubox so much. I'm still stuck with it for slicing, but I do everything else in Prusa. It makes for a clunky work flow but did I mention how much I fucking despise Chitu?
What happened to Chitu? I thought it was the big boy of slicing/support software for 3D printing stuff for good reason.

>>98804485
I just printed overnight at 2c no trouble.
You know the curing process generates heat, right? The vat warms itself while printing.

>>98804281
Need more information. If you suspect the supports, you should probably share a screencap or something.

>>98805114
>2C
Yeah, that's probably not helping. Optimal temperature would be somewhere between 20 and 30C, but if whatever process is working out for you, great.

>>98804515
I should mention that the model parts should be "water tight" or at the very least the end result of the model. If you cut the parts and it's not filling in the void with (outward facing) polies, that's going to lead to problems. As a general rule of thumb, everything you output for printing needs to be a solid piece. No 2D surfaces. Belts, cloth, and ribbons on exported game models and the like are notorious for having these as they save on poly count and modeling time.

hey guys, help me out pls
i dont 3d print myself, but i purchased some resin prints recently, but they are kinda sticky and smell
what can i do to fix that? i tried washing with water but it didnt help much
they don't feel like they werent cured at all, just semi-sticky or something like that

>>98805901
they haven't been cured.
touching them bare handed means you probably are going to have skin issues.

>>98805997
i washed them with gloves

>>98806097
yeah anon was just fucking with you.
You can leave them in the sun, make an open box of tin foil if you want it to go faster. which can help extra cure. but i doubt they were cleaned properly, ipa then cure is probably what they need.
but honestly, go fuckin yell at who ever sold that shit to you. get a new print or a refund, those are unfinished prints

>>98805901
Not fully cured or they washed it in really dirty IPA (the washed off resin will accumulate in the IPA and needs to be changed out or processed at some point.) You should give it a wash in isopropyl alcohol. Maybe use a soft toothbrush, then rinse with some water and throw them under the sun or expose to some other UV light source. If you're going to use gloves, make sure they're nitrile and not latex.

I've used soap and water in my final stage of rinsing but that's probably just me being a little extra about the process. I don't know, maybe it might help if it stays sticky. Anyway, you should at least expose the IPA to some UV light before disposing it.

>>98806183
>>98806433
i washed in ipa and scrubbed with a brush then washed with water, I think it smells quite a bit less now, but I havent tried touching yet.
i also have a nail uv lamp thingie, should i also try curing in that?

>>98806808
yeah, definitely use that, itll speed it along

>>98806808
A 5 minute uv lamp exposure should be plenty, turn once halfway like a steak.

>>98722410
Is a 3D printer ventilation tent necessary for just the 3D printer and not necessary for the wash+cure station as smell isn't produced from the wash+cure station?
I just want to filter the smell down. I'm "nose-blind" except when it is most inconvenient oddly enough.

>>98809234
It isn't even necessary for the printer, for that matter the wash/cure is also a boondoggle.

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Not sure if its the right place to ask, but where do I find the STL for this model?

>>98722410
I may be late to the party on this, but where did the Propane pod discord server go?

>>98809803
>It isn't even necessary for the printer
It is in instances where the landlord is iffy on printers a ventilation system has to be built too.
>for that matter the wash/cure is also a boondoggle.
I'm sorry anon-senpai. The bundle deal was too good and I lapsed in judgement for convenience.

>>98810278
>Landlord
I'm sorry you live in such precarious conditions, anon.

>>98810278
Is it in the contract? if not the landlord can fuck themselves.
If you aren't willing to push back on that? Your damage deposit is already gone.

>>98809234
Anon, there are low odor and odorless gasses that are bad or dangerous out there. Isopropyl alcohol fumes can be potentially bad for you too. Go do some research

>>98810517
This.
Resin has a strong chemical smell, but it's danger comes from long term exposure to its fumes, particularly those released during curing.
IPA, on the other hand, doesn't seem to have that strong or bad of a smell, but it can instantly irritate your respiratory system, fuck up your nose and rapidly strip the protective coating of your eyes, just by being around its vapour.
Even if you're not experiencing any discomfort, proper eye and respiratory protection must be work when working with chemicals.

>>98810517
I believe another anon already recently covered this but, do you wear a mask when using nailpolish remover to clean the polish off your nails? (one can only presume you are effeminate enough to paint your nails)

>>98810560
Wife's nail technician developed encephalopathy, retardation and tremors from daily exposure to acetone fumes without protection.
It's baffling how much resistance there is when fags get told to protect themselves when working with chemicals.
I don't wish any harm on nobody, but I'd very much prefer if we encouraged everybody to be safe for the sale of themselves and their loved ones.

>>98810560
I don't paint my nails so I had no need to wear a mask.
The primary reasoning for ventilation is landlord related stuff.
>>98810557
>proper eye and respiratory protection needed when working with IPA.
Is a dust mask and safety glasses enough?

>>98810929
Nope, get yourself an organic vapour rated mask, the sort that painters and pest control guys use. They're around 35 bucks and will protect you from all fumes.
Safety glasses should be good. I'm prone to allergic conjunctivitis whenever my eyes are exposed to fumes from any solvent, so I use enclosed goggles, but if you're not as sensitive, the glasses will be perfect.

>>98810881
Mmhmm, yes and are any of us here essentially huffing IPA for 8 hours a day 5 days a week? or are we being exposed to it for a few minutes once in awhile?
That is if your anecdote is even true and not just some shit you made up on the spot.
Also:
>retardation
Like a nail technician isn't already.

>>98811133
>get yourself an organic vapour rated mask, the sort that painters and pest control guys use
Alright I'll look into them. Thank you.

So I'm most used to doing resin, and generally only use FDM for printing bases in black PLA or functional parts in PETG (including joints for my other hobby, which is poseable model kits and action figure modding). I'd like to do some simple terrain with it but I find even with supports, overhands and undersides of parts ALWAYS suck, usually with drooping strings of sagged filament. Happened with a building advertised as printing support-free and that was just in PLA. Obviously that's far from ideal, but I know people CAN print without this happening. What's the trick? Using a Bambu A1 with Bambu Studio, for what it's worth.

>>98722410
Yeah

>>98804515
>What happened to Chitu?
Each new version was progressively bigger, slower, used more RAM, was less stable, featured more annoying pop-ups, and didn't do anything significant that the last version didn't already do. There's also the possible matter of Chinese spyware but I'll leave that to the experts. The thing that annoyed me most were the crashes, which generally happened during slicing, meaning that you were starting from scratch if you weren't saving frequently. Lose a build plate that you spent 30 minutes on a couple of times and you start looking for alternatives in a hurry.
>I thought it was the big boy of slicing/support software
It depends on who you ask. You don't hear much about Chitu here, but you don't hear much about slicers in general here either. Odd.

>>98813149
speaking of new versions, I have been told the newest version of lychee, which is its own thing rather than an update to the prior program, has streaming RAM usage rather than keeping the entire slice in RAM until finished, anyone tried this 8.0 lychee and can confirm that its easier on hardware usage?

>>98722410
Requesting a list of good oldhammer style miniature STL makers. I know of monstrous encounters and I think knucklebones counts too.
Maybe even a torrent of good quality scanned oldhammer miniatures that are no longer sold in retail.
I backed "Older Miniatures" kickstarter and apparently it was AI according to /grog/ so I am in the stages of grief right now. Hoping that it will be all be false but understandable assumptions.


>>98813149
So how is PRUSA as a slicer then?

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>>98815851
Max152 or Fabelzel

>>98815878
Thanks anon. I'm in paint right now. Wanted a huge collection of oldhammer styled STLs to print and paint when I am not painting an army.

>>98815851
https://cults3d.com/en/users/open_sketch

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Hot off the printer, a corsair venom.

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>>98816978
Princess on jetbike and regular crewman on jetbike.

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>>98817444
And beastmaster on hellion, which is tge last of my multipart prints for this project, all of which also happen to need flight stands.
everything remaining is individuals on foot, single piece prints.

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>>98817462
Shade runner (wych) ready to paint.

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>>98817831
kurnathi, gunner and fate dealer (striking scorpion, fire dragon, ranger)

>go print my catgirl maids
>most of the heads didn't print
>not like, misprints, I mean they're not there
I've been out of the proonting game for too long.

>>98816020
>Birmingham Wastes Expedition Sample Pack
kek

Bros....
>https://assembler3d.github.io/
The times of lengthy 3d assembly and fiddling with blender are almost over

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I need glue for resin miniatures, because im low in superglue minidoses units, while having cement glue but its usseles on not-plastic things.
So I need something for at least resin, and having ergonomic grab & use.
Is pic related good or do not work on resin? Any better alternatives?

>>98809997
No idea, but that's so simple you could design it yourself in fusion.

>>98819420
Use liquid resin out of the printer vat and get a uv flashlight.

>>98819420
That literally says plastic cement on the side of the bottle. You can get UV curing glue that comes with a UV flashlight, but if you're having to order stuff, just get more superglue.

>>98819956
nature of the glue aside, whoever designed that bottle is an absolute moronic asshole

This is form a collection called Skullforge arsenal, Titanfall inspired

>>98819420
Don't use plastic cement. Use CA superglue. I have had a lot of success with LocTite power gel.

>>98820040
I think it's a little brush that comes out, not a squeeze nozzle.

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>>98820112

>>98820116
the little brush is even more retarded. but for fuck's sake the bottle is alreadfy halfway tipped over and it's held up by a teeny tiny wittle peg leg wedge.

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Project is now printed, desupported, based and ready to get some paint.
The fancy jetbike is an alt for the leader, both jetbikes and the venom are display only extras.

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So been printing minis in fdm, got a p2s about a month ago, real fun, im thinking i will get a Saturn 4 ultra 16k to print minis better.

Primarily i will be printing detailed miniatures.

Any anons have one? What do people recommend?

>>98820956
Kill yourself, slopper

>>98820988
Why r u so angry?

>>98821046
NTA but this is off-topic since you didn't post them without paint, save it for /wip/

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>>98821104
My apologies
Peoples thoughts on Saturn 4 ultra 16k?

>>98821136
2k, 4k, 8k, 10, 16k... it's meaningless on it's own, pixel count for hte dimensions of the screen is what matters.
You are printing 25-32mm miniatures so you do not need a large printer and the physics of suction means you do not want a large printer, the bigger it is the more adhesion failure is an issue.
I have a photon mono 4, I WANTED a halot r6 (smaller and cheaper) but they refuse to ship that to my country.

>>98820112
>>98820127
You got the Humble Bundle too? Maybe one day I'll print me out some mechs and pilots, after all the other stuff I need to print out.

>>98821461
Yeah exactly thought they looked awesome and a good deal
I love Titanfall and the designs were cool
Don't know about the actual game though

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>>98819912
The issue is that they dont advertise it for what it is in stores due to laws (so they dont say its a bb gun), so I dont know how to find the model.
It has a trigger system to push the elastic up to shot the ball, and Ive seen some sellers with different reloading systems like the pic one.
I just want a cool bb gun but I suck at modeling.

How are the PRUSA brand printers? They seem "made in EU" so I'd imagine that they aren't going to be as cheap as Anycubic and Elegoo which I think are both from China.
The important thing is that PRUSA's slicers for 3D printing seem pretty good for an open source and free product. So sometimes I wonder if the premium price is like a large "donation" to keep the PRUSA slicer project alive.

>>98819420
It can work. But differently than you or others think.
You can cut or scrape some gw sprue plastic. Thinner the better. Than mix it with a proper blob of that glue. Put it on the part and press it together.
I glued some Forgeworld resin models with this. It helps when the dirface isnt too blank.

>>98722410
guys, my friend will print off stuff for me if I buy the resin, ZYN's, and beer for him.
What resin should I get? I want to gift him a few bottles too, hes not just a friend , he's family.
who makes the best 28mm scale military aircraft so I can have them for a near future SOCOM/JSOC wargame. I want to pay for them so I can bitch and get the models fixed if they not right and possibly get them customized like destroyed aircraft and vehicles. ive seen to many that gay ass cartoony reddit look to them that i just cant hang with.
>>98727013
F U M E S
U
M
E
S

>>98828316
anycubic clear abs-like

>fumes
you fell for the fearmongering propaganda.

>>98828828
>fearmongering propaganda
M8, the only propaganda is coming from the absolute grounds claiming that resin and IPA fumes are perfectly safe to breathe.
Resin printing may be new, but the chemicals involved in it have been in use for the better part of a century now, in both hobby and industrial applications.
You must absolutely wear protective gear when handling resin and IPA, and any non-indian workplace will not only require you, but also provide you with the necessary gear plus replacements every given amount of time.
I've had acquaintances and loved ones die from chemical exposed diseases and cancers, all of them preventable with PPE and it's definitely not s fun experience.
You can definitely print at home, just like you can do resin casting, lacquer airbrushing or foam cutting, just do it with the necessary precautions that actual professionals do.
Better safe than sorry.

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What the fuck happened to Lost Kingdom miniatures. I heard they had good chaos warriors, so I checked it out since I liked their chaos dwarfs and older stuff, but all their new releases seem like complete shit. Is it just the rendering style?

>>98829154
Nothing but clean air is perfectly safe to breahe, but you don't need a hazmat suit and a hermetically sealed facility to run a printer, your cologne is comapratively toxic, febreze is worse to breathe, your cars exhaust is far worse and you live in a place where tens of thousands of those are pumping those insanely toxic exhaust fumes into the air you breathe daily.
The printer is relatively safe and incredibly fucking minor as a contributant to the poor air quality.
And then there's the MELTING PLASTIC of the FDM but everyone taking a steaming dump of fume fear on resin suggests FDM instead.
Do you have even a tiny fucking clue why? It's not about the fucking fumes, it's about resin being a cost and detail threat to injection molded plastic sellers, FDM doesn't bother them because they layer lines on FDM look like absolute shit even with the most insanely fine tuned example, FDM doesn't threaten any multimillionaire corporations profit margins, resin does, so an army of shills are paid to make people afraid of it.
If you're actually and honestly afraid of the printer fumes it's time to abandon society and go live in the middle of the jungle or on top of a mountain.

>>98829193
That feminist is so fuck ugly yet so horrifyingly accurate.

Do people actually paint their 3d prints? I'm working on painting my 2nd sizable 40k army faction collection that I've printed, but, I feel like I rarely see it. I see a LOT of people collecting STLs, and I see people printing some of them.
But I feel like I rarely see people having actually painted and played with armies they've printed. Maybe no one talks about it and it's not that rare, I dunno.
The whole "3d printing is its own hobby separate from warhammer" feels like bullshit but I do see a lot of people who seem to be as much about 3d printing as a hobby in of itself, rather than just as a tool.
But like I said maybe I'm just retarded.

>>98821136

I've used the Saturn 4 Ultra 16k pretty extensively and I love it. A big ass plate means you can print a ton of stuff efficiently, and you can print bigger pieces when you need to.
What you really want to know about is "does the tilting vat matter?"
The answer is yes, it's sick, but there IS a downside I'd be remiss not talking about. That downside is the same as its upside: The tilting vat has fewer settings that affect print success. No lift/retraction speed for example. What this means is that if you DO have problems, you also have fewer levers to pull to try to fix it/work around it. With most printers, if what you're getting is print failures specifically, and you just want your shit to print, you can take a hit on speed, crank the lift speed down, increase light off delay, etc.
Not so much with the tilting vat. It Just Works. And we know what happens with things that Just Work when they don't work.
Overall though I have loved it. My minis look great, I was able to print a big ass army including a few quite sizable models in a very short span of time. I actually printed a full winged demon prince in one piece, and it came out fucking perfect. Got a whole defiler (admittedly in MANY pieces) in 2 3-ish hour prints. So on.
It's not a cheap machine and I've known I think 2 people who had 4 ultras and HATED them, so, YMMV but I'd recommend it.

>>98829511
There are absolutely going to be losers who go from collecting unopened 40k boxes and occassionally playing with that one unpainted grey tide army they actually managed to build, to printing a mountain of unpainted minis that is just the tip of the iceberg of the amount of files they have that they'll never print.
And these days those kinds of secondaries are the visual majority of the "hobby". that doesn't mean there aren't plenty of us using these tools to actually save money so that we can do more of the painting we enjoy to play the games we enjoy playing with painted minis.
Head over to /wip/ and you'll see painted prints frequently.

>>98829305
>Nothing but clean air is perfectly safe to breahe
Yes, nobody is saying otherwise, you mong. But if you get the chance to even slightly improve your living and breathing conditions you should.
>FDM
Again, I never said otherwise, in fact I'm of the belief that FDM owners are way too carefree, sometimes even having their printer working next to them, careless because they don't really have a chemical smell.
If you do any sort of 3d printing, do your research and actually get the necessary protective equipment.
>threat to injection molded plastic sellers
I didn't know dentists, jewellers, prop designers and engineers were a threat to how, and yet they've all fallen for the fumeaganda and strongly encourage, if not outright demand, protective gear in the workplace.
I've also been a casting tech for a resin decorations manufacturer, the sort of little angel figures that an aunt may own, for over 15 years. We use protection when working with different types of resins, IPA and paints, funny that he is also filling our business with propaganda years before resin printers were dirt cheap.
It's perfectly ok if you don't want to wear a mask for the 20 minutes at a time that you'll be at your printing room, but please don't come and proselytise against protection to the people taking an actual interest in their own health and safety. By all means, go huff your car's exhaust, but don't spout retarded nonsense, please.

>>98829521
you say "only problem" but then fail to point out that another moving part and increased physical complexity is another point of failure introduced into the mechanism.

>>98829537
>do your research and actually get the necessary protective equipment.
Right back at you, the equipment needed is: None.

>>98829532

Tight. Yeah it's weird just anytime I see painted minis on any of the discords I'm on there's never 3d prints, and prints are always just shown as... prints, not finished minis.
And I'm on printing discords, painting discords, 40k discords, and a couple creator discords. So it's odd.

>>98829538

Yeah that's fair. There's also increased risk of resin falling into the printer and fucking it up though you have to fuck up pretty heavily for that to happen since there IS a lip/groove specifically to catch small amounts.

>>98829537
>20 minutes at a time that you'll be at your printing room
What? if you have a dedicated printing room (unnecessary) then wtf are you doing in there for 20 minutes? it takes 5 to remove prints from the plate, wash them and take them away to where you'll desupport and cure them.
>muh I worked with resins
actively breathing in industrial chemicals for 8 hours a day 5 days a week is far different than being exposed to a different set of chemicals for a few minutes at a time a few times a month (once you get over the novelty of the machine you realize you can't keep up to constant printing with your painting and learn to pace yourself), and yes the uv cure printer resins are a much different chemical set than what you were pouring into molds "resin" covers a lot of shit chemically all the way to pine sap, so either cite specific chemicals and their MSDS or fuck off
>muh dentists
Yeah their insurance policies demand things, that's what your medical professionals are so insistent on protective equipment for, and again, their "resins" are different chemicals, although in this case you can at least get dental grade materials for the printer, but you'll find the MSDS sheets for those resins are different than the MSDS sheets for your standard elegeoo/anycubic/creality/etc... ones.
Look at the MSDS and post the links to the sheets you're reading if you want to continue this, because I know what they say (and remember these sheets are put out to protect manufacturers from lawsuits so they're extremely careful) and the only issues with the materials we use is not to pour it into aquatic environments and not to drink it.

>>98829543
>discord
there's your problem.

>>98829541
Well, then stay safe mate, I really hope you're right and I'm not, for both of our sakes, but I'm not taking the risk.
I work with this shit for a living and I know my stuff, but to each their own.

>>98829562
MSDS or bust, I work with chemical fertilizers and pesticides so I get really sick of people calling things dangerous when they can't cite the data sheets.

>>98829557

Next time I'll use Reddit if that'll make you happier

Fix my pos printer. What should I get for sanding/cleaning up supports etc?

Dspiae pen sander?

Also I already had like 30 bottles of resin, but couldn't help myself and got 10x anycubic abs like 2.0, since it was on special + discount code for $14.70 AUD/kg, plan on mixing it with tenacious at 15% which should raise it to about $20-21 AUD/kg

>>98820466
You have no eye for aesthetics and coherency. Your scales and model line looks are all over the fucking place. This will look like shit because I don't think you can paint either just based on your choices.

>>98829899
You want to be angry just for the sake of it, the scales are perfect, every single mini has been height matched with the others prior to print, you're just a sour bitch.

>>98829899
Anon... you can't even see the details in that photo.
Other anon is right, you're bitching a foid bitch just because.

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>>98829511
Here anon.
Hundreds of minis in this picture, all printed, all painted.

>>98829511
Well, over here you aren't allowed to post painted models, since that's for /WIP/. As far as it goes, I paint my models, but I rarely get to play miniature games these days so if I don't paint them it feels like there's no point to any of it.

>>98832565
It's been established many times in the past for this general that painted results are fine, but we want to see your naked prints first and we do not want a step-by-step of your painting either.
so print, post here.
post in /wip/ as you paint.
Come back here when you're done to show us what became of the print.

>>98829511
Yes. I build some of my props in resin. I just generally don't them because there is no resin/SLA general.

>>98832963
? that's this general

>>98833014
No it's not, there is no resin general. This is a tabletop game resin general
>Keep discussion/photos about tabletop games only

>>98833465
What other non meme use is there?

>>98833657
Props is one, non tabletop figures another, other parts you may not wanna do in fdm. I built a mechanical gauntlet mostly out of resin with just the bones in petg, and some polished lenses in clear resin for a prop rifle

>>98834305
That all sounds like /tg/ to me, we do have cosplayers and purely display painters.

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>>98833657
I've been using it for making articulated figures myself; I use engineering resin and it's shockingly strong, enough I managed to make a pretty successful blank base body entirely out of the stuff.
(Spoilered because non-/tg/; it's SFW, it's just a proof of concept blank body for all-resin construction. I do want to make some /tg/ relevant figures though.)

>>98832496

Extremely based, damn.

>>98833657

I've got a friend who makes and sells magic tricks and things like that, and he's made great use of my printer. Moulds for coins, pieces for articulating items, various other things. I've also made a couple things in this vein as well.

I never performed it but I had a whole thing where I could get someone to name an animal, then I would burn the paper they wrote the name on, then blow it into my hand and the animal would appear 'made of' ashes. In theory you could do this other ways but I used 3d printing and transparent resin.

>>98832496
What's that pride flag?
I don't recognise it.

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Does someone know how to find the file for this kind of articulated model? The generic dummies are everywhere, but I want a cool one like this, with some personality.

>>98837763
IIRC it's Racist Pride?

I'm in the middle of moving, goddamn i've printed a whole bunch of shit i'll never paint. Good riddance.

>>98839842
This is why you paint what you've just printed before you print again.

The formlabs studio 1 is such a piece of junk holy hell it is getting shilled
>Want to use 3rd party resin? Not to worry we've made a 'pro' version of that vat you will have to buy to use 3rd party resin for safety reasons
>Need to change your fep? We've now made this quick easy and painless for you by permanently fusing the fep to the vat, just throw out the whole vat and buy a new one!
There are actually people defending this btw

>>98840557
>>Need to change your fep? We've now made this quick easy and painless for you by permanently fusing the fep to the vat, just throw out the whole vat and buy a new one!
What in the fuck? Why would they do that? The Hoopat solved FEP changes, why not just copy that?

>>98840557
... how does the machine or slicer know your brand of resin?

>>98840640
Presumably the thing has preset resin profiles for its slicer (which is the only slicer it will work with) and if you want to adjust them to use other resins you gotta shell out for the pro version. Similar to what HeyGears does.

>>98840783
That'd be malicious even for their own resins, you NEED exposure and lift speed control.

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>>98840640
>... how does the machine or slicer know your brand of resin?
It's not that the printer refuses to work with 3rd party resins, it's that 3rd party resins will destroy the fep because they want you to use their own brand.

>>98736052
This geometry is fucked. You're going to have to fix it in blender. My suspicion is that there's loose verts all over the place and the slicer is trying to fill in the space

>>98747987
I use denatured alcohol from the hardware store in my wash station. It works great. I also re-distill it when it gets dirty but you don't technically have to do that.

>>98736052
I had that happen recently too, make sure you have enough spare RAM and storage for your slicer to produce and save the file without issues.

>>98736052
>printing the fortress of solitude
neat

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First things off of my new mars 5 ultra that was delayed by a month reeeee.
I love this resin but it's very hard to photograph while raw so I threw in a primed photo too.
Had a bit of an adhesion problem with some later prints but upping the bottom exposure time fixed that and it's been smooth printing since.

>>98820127
>>98821461
>>98821679
what designs are they? still available?

>>98840620
What do you mean why? Now you don't have to change the fep anymore. Its really a great convenient addition to not have to change the fep. Just buy a new vat, you have to calculate the running costs anon, it's only 10-15% more than cost of replacing a fep without the mess!

This is an actual argument people are making defending this shit btw. As if they couldn't just throw out a vat and buy a new one on any other printer before.. 5 pack of PFA is what? $20-$30 US? What that pro vat is $79 US if you can get it at that price even.

This also answers why. You have to buy a new vat which costs much more, and you have to buy it from formlabs not buy third party PFA.

FYI, formlabs also killed this which smashed their funding goals to get it launched
https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/micronics3d/micron-a-desktop-sls-3d-printer

>>98842289
Should've done some homework before buying into that shitshow

I'm not sure if anyone else uses a S4U 16k here or other tilting vat printers. But despite people saying it's normal, it shouldn't be making loud sounds, it should print quietly. If it's loud then typically your tilt/X axis motor is struggling.

Take it out and unplug it (it's quite easy on the S4U 16k), if it doesn't turn easily by hand then yeah that's it, and there's typically 2 issues.

>Rear bearing gunk
Rear bearing full is chock full of resin from leaks, you'll either need to replace it (if the replacement doesn't fit into the rear case and push against the spring plate easily the tolerance is off, likewise it can't be too loose on the shaft either, needs to be quite snug to center the rotor properly) or clean out the resin, remove the metal and race, clean it out completely (repeated soaks in acetone/IPA helps) until it spins easily then lube it up put the race back in and reinstall it.

>Both bearings are fine
The shaft is slightly out of position, the rotor needs to be in a very precise vertical and horizontal centre position or it'll seize up, reinstall the parts and push on the shaft to push it back into the rear back properly and reinstall the screws.

If it now turns easily, it's ready to go back in. I've had to do this again even with no leaks getting into it, it just gets out of whack/out of position and starts making noise during tilt.

Its now super quiet again during printing.

>>98842594
I could never use resin that looks like this. I'd definitely put it in my mouth

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>>98843191
The most common responses to me posting prints are gushers boxes and this one cat gif.

>>98842840
Who are you talking about?

>>98842656
It's Skullforge Studio's mech game that's based on Titanfall.
The bundle is still available too, it comes with all the mechs, mercs and terrain they've released for it and pdfs of the rules, tokens, cards, and squad sheets.
https://www.humblebundle.com/software/skullforge-studios-arsenal-mega-bundle-software

>>98837789
is there any other kind of ethnic pride?

All these coldfags
Any people here print in hot places?
how will 35-40c affect my printer/prints

>>98847325
>All these coldfags
My proont setup is in the basement in Canada (southern Ontario) and it is gonna get chilly. So I need printing advice for pulling this off.

Also I've learned of SteamForge's Warmachine Cyrx stls and I'm curious if there is an archive project of the PP era models in STL form from scans.

>>98847325
consistent warm temps make printing resin more reliable. Some people even use a grow tent for their resin printers because they don't just put them in the house

>>98847361
>grow tent for their resin printers
What are some good grow tents and what are some good things to convert them into tents that vent out the resin fumes? Don't like the smell.
Just in case the 3D printing tent I bought was snake oil.

I picked up a 3D printing tent that came with fan, tubes and led. The fan and LED light are all using USB connectors but I'm not sure what power source should be for those when getting it all plugged to the wall with preferably surge protector.

>>98847361
Interesting, I didn't think resin minis could even handle being in a hot environment, I know gw plastic melts in cars, and though resin would be worse

>>98847377
I've got a yoopai double B tent, like a grow tent designed for resin printing. Comes with a duct and exhaust fan

>>98847476
Seems to be similar to what I bought.
>https://www.amazon.ca/SKOUPLHY-Enclosure-Ventilation-Printer-Eliminate/dp/B0FMQSYF5Q
I'm not sure if it was supposed to come with a power source instead of LED lights and a fan with a USB stick.
Hopefully the temperature monitor (top corner) is good enough and batteries can be easily replaced.

>>98847314
in todays world only white people can be racist, and if a nonwhite is being discriminatory to another nonwhite that is still somehow an act of white supremacy and its a white guys fault.

>>98847529
Hmm I got a USB light and a USB fan, I bought a USB fan speed controller off Amazon to turn it down do it doesn't sound like a jet all the time

>>98842594
>Had a bit of an adhesion problem with some later prints but upping the bottom exposure time fixed that
Change your bottom layers to have a 30s wait before cure time, you can then dramatically lower the exposure time. Right now you're cooking your lcd to compensate for trapped resin creating a thicker bottom layer.

>>98842594
Would you mind sharing the files for the 2nd-5th edition SoBs, please? I found some on the telly but aren't as crisp as those one

>>98847838
Can you check your orders and list what you bought? Especially a power source? I think a wired surge protector that fits on the desk (in case the basement floods ever just in case) is the first on my list of things to get before things added that extend the USB connections to plug into said surge protector.
But to be fair the surge protector is there for the wash+cure station and the printer as well.

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>>98849300
Its literally just this + a USB fan speed controller (put between USB power source and fan). The kit came with everything except a AC to USB adapter which I used some old ones laying around. Can open my S4u 16k inside properly as well

>>98848840
Will give that a go, thank you.
>>98849178
What's the best way to upload these days?

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>>98849178
aHR0cHM6Ly9maWxlLmtpd2kvMjQwOWNjOTEjSkNNdlBnX1NmNFhZanh1RTlTM2tHdw==

>>98850131
Thank you very much, anon: you just turned a very shitty day into a nice one. Cheers!