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Work in Progress, "Phil Din" Edition

>Full-on /WIP/ OP Links Pastebin:
https://pastebin.com/BE42AEcD

>WIP Tutorial Images Mega
https://mega.nz/#F!TvQFCaLb!w8WZKCcOsTRasxrI0JWezw

>Saint Duncan's "Six Things I Wish I Knew When I Started Painting"
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ufP8ka3KGno

>Saint Duncan also explains thinning your paints
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wxWgsqSf74s

>Paint thinning 102
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sBDVPoNXyVI

>4 EASY Chipping Tricks For Beginners
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ku4comhKHJM

>Decal Like a Pro
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SYKLiEW7p9c

>How to Edge Highlight
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KoRbYuAfbEk

>How to use contrast style paints
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IhholrozptI

>How to Paint with Tremors
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oqp76vAJu9g

>Airbrush Priming and Thinning
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jkntrSBvXxE
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IGjBQzoukFg
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=00JVUxABe44
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AEqT_R41JX8

>He's the night watchman, Frank.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=het1kl-A8qw

>Who's Johnny, she'd say, and smile in her special way
https://1d6chan.miraheze.org/wiki/Johnny

Previous threads:
>>98745124
>>98726793
>>98706384
>>
Thread question; which GW ranges are 3rd party creators now better at?
imperial guard not included, that's obvious
>>
>>98771579
>>
File: PXL_20261003_031520118.jpg (534 KB, 1475x980)
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I wasn't gonna post this but since you asked I guess I will.
I am making my own plinths right now. Just working on building up a nice finish on them. It was annoying to rip the walnut stock down without a tablesaw but they're turning out.
>>
>>98771748
Oh I meant to @
>>98770915
>>
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>>98771506
Working on mapping out where I want the colors to fall.
Unsure if I should make the leash look like it's hooking into the squig's mouth or its flesh.
>>
>>98771769
It looks like it's hooked into the flesh, which would be more metal anyways. Besides, having a bit prevents the squig from biting harder
>>
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Orktober Model #2: Just a Grot for tonight.
>>
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Got the basecoat for the armor done tonight. I wanted to do a zenithal with hydra turquoise(the current color is blue saphire) from the top, but the airbrush was clogging up after 3 dreads so i decided that after cleaning it out I would wait until tomorrow to do that.
>>
>>98771579
>>98771589
Orks seem to be better from 3rd party.
I think it is because GW can't really copyright space orcs so people just say they are making space orcs that happen to use "junk like machines."
And imperial guard proxies are just space soldiers inspired by historical things. So GW has a harder time nailing those.
>>
reminder that if you are american you should use american terminology and not humiliate yourself by giving yuroids the satisfaction of forcing you to use their terminology. it's clear coat not varnish. matte not matt. air conditioning not open window.
>>
>>98771748
what did you finish that walnut with? the grain looks kind of funky but I can't tell if it's the photo or something you did to it or the variety of wood.
>>
>>98772256
Bro I can't fucking ventilate my room by turning the AC on no matter how much AC I have.
>>
>>98772264
Idk. There are some scratches on the endgrain from where I cut it and didn't manage to sand it out. Finish is shellac.
>>
>>98772176
Really? I don't mind GW orks
I have these guys but more cos I like aliens the film
>>
>>98771748
Maybe there's a maker space near you that has woodworking equipment. There's one here with all the bells and whistles, just need someone to show me how to not liveleak myself with the lathe and I'll have infinite hardwood plinths.
Surely an airbrush makes finishing easy.
>>
>>98772361
I see did you not fill the grain since you were using shellac?
>>
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Reposting my baneblade. Is there stuff that is missing? Or some major mistakes?
>>
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>>98771579
I like these guys way better than the nancy navy breachers that gw made
>>
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>>98772466
>>
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space men
>>
>>98772434
Why is one barrel wrapped but not the other? The commander would def be jacking up the gunners/loaders for something like that.
>>
>>98772434
what is the tactical advantage of chaining burlap to the gun?
>>
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>>98772478
Here's the other side, there some stuff loaded on.

>>98772481
It confuses the enemy.
>>
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Painting white the old-fashioned way is tedious, but weirdly enjoyable.
>>
>>98772481
Substrate mesh for sticking foliage in easily, for camouflage? Also breaks up the outline of the vehicle too.
>>
>>98772520
Honestly, it otherwise looks good, but I would recommend losing the wrapping and the janky chain around the one barrel. Around the trunion, is fine, but if it's not meant to be camo and it's not meant to be thermal wrapping, both of which would be applied to both barrels, and much more of the hull, it just looks like some trash on it. Of course if you think it looks cool then it is. Other wise, I really like the paint job and color choices
>>
>>98771073
Holy based actually
>>
>>98772679
>samefagging your shitty bait from the previous thread because nobody bit the clear coat/varnish bit
this is just pathetic at at this point lmao
>>
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>>
>>98772687
Are you craftsperg? Be honest now.
>>
>>98772709
Go troll 40kg, anon.
>>
>>98772689
Looks fucking sick anon
>>
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>>98772466
I'm painting these right now too. Great minis.
>>
>>98772466
>>98773040
These really are nicer than the GW minis. But let me guess, heckin printerinos?
>>
Any rough equivalent to Minigrounds two tone Green? It has a brown undertone and looks more green on top. I love it, but I didn't see an equivalent in my FLGS when I was trying to get more tufts after rebasing most of my Orks, and Minigrounds itself seems to be out of business.
>>
Vince's take on the new GW paints.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Bs7e4YJV5oU

tl;dw:
>it's normal modern acrylic paints in the same shitty pots, but now even more expensive
>it still takes multiple coats to get an even coat of white/red/etc.
>whites were improved - they are not some miracle paint, but now on par with AK 3rd gen (50%+ cheaper) and roughly with PA whites, even though PA still have better (off)whites than GW.
>no magic self-leveling
>the only really new good addition is that they come pre-thinned. The flow is great; you can use it straight out of the bottle, great for free-handing, edge highlighting.
>they kinda suck for airbrushing - you need to thin them a lot, which requires a lot of passes/coats for even coverage
>good for drybrushing
>the entire range has a bit of a satin finish
>>
>>98773120
You can paint and use washes on grass tufts, anon.
>dark wash
>bright drybrush top
Will give you the same thing. Better yet, you can airbrush them.
>>
>>98771579
>>98771589
I'm rather fond of Trollet's space orks.
>>
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>>98773098
Yeah of course
>>
How do I fix mistakes when basecoating details following an airbrushed basecoat for the main color? I can't exactly color match the exact color of a transparent paint over a gradient undercoat...
I'm a beginner and I've had to strip so many minis and start over when I make small mistakes that I can't figure out how to fix cleanly that it's really becoming demotivating
>>
>>98773183
>I can't exactly color match the exact color of a transparent paint over a gradient undercoat
Unless your airbrushed coat is extremely vibrant you can but you need a set of opaque paints for it. Stippling is my go to application method when I'm patching the mistakes. If they're near recesses darklining helps further mask them. Use the smallest brush you can for tight spots and use masking tape or putty to cover adjacent areas.
Ultimately you are never going to completely avoid mistakes and you just need to accept that and fix them to a good enough level.
>>
>>98773183
>I can't exactly color match the exact color of a transparent paint over a gradient undercoat...
Filters. Roughly mix the paint 1:8 thinner, and then slowly and gradually start building on the layer. It takes just couple of minutes.
>>
>>98773129
The salad lips are pretty cool.
>>
>>98773125
Vince's turbo boner for PA paints invalidates his opinions. Will never undersetand why people suck them off, they are genuinely one of the worst brands.
>>
>>98773312
>>98773326
I've heard about military model builders using varnish to "lock in" their progress before moving in to another step, but what kind of product will remove acrylic paint without affecting the varnish?
>>
>>98773808
It's more about having an ablative layer of material that can get manhandled without affecting the look of the model
>>
>>98773860
This, plus its also protects the paintjob from solvents used with oils and enamels
>>
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>>98773502
I've never really gelled with Vince's workflow, I imagine PA paints are just really well suited to that. Scale 75 are a similar kind of thing IME
>>
>>98773502
PA's fine, probably the best whites and offwhites on the market.
>>
>>98773808
It's usually not to lock in acrylic paints, but to lock in stuff done with oil/enamel paints/washes/filters. These paints are very easily reactivated (that's in many cases why they're used here in the first place), so if you just try to layer such effects they'd happily start eating into each other. But since the solvents there are in the "fat soluble" camp and acrylics are more in the "water soluble" camp a layer of acrylic varnish can usually lock in previous layers of oil work quite well.
Acrylics are usually a lot less sensitive to re-activation, but if you still find yourself for some reason wanting to protect some from what you'll put on top (alcohol-based ones like Tamiya's for example will happily rip apart regular acrylic paint layers underneath) then a layer of enamel or lacquer varnish should provide plenty of protection, or you you only need a bit of protection then a layer of acrylic varnish can be enough.
Or you might just want to protect your paint against plain old abrasion, in which case you don't need to worry about the chemistry of it all. Or some combination of it (for example: while a fat-soluble affair, white spirits will weaken many acrylic paints, making them easier to rub off.)
Either way, the trick is to alternate between water-soluble and fat-soluble layers (one for your varnish, one for your actual paintjob). And keep in mind that all of this is just a rough guide, with all the different solvents, binders and additives out there any specific combination of stuff can result in all sorts of amusing disasters.
>>
I am trying to decide on a color scheme for my first army, CSM (i had old models from 2003). I am going to do undivided, thinking sorta blue Back Legion. I originally was going to slapchop the whole lot but after assembling them I realize there is a ton of trim, plus I am in no hurry to have them painted.
I purchased the Speed Paint starter kit, a white and light grey from Citadel, Tainted Gold, and Deep Grey from armypainter.
I like the bottles from armypainter but citadel released the tone pro. I am debating between Night Sky or Blue Gorkshroom (not sure how dark/grey #1 is).
Any input or suggestions on places to test color schemes digitally?
>>
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>got the mix of the Magenta/Pink just right
feels good
>all these fucking cat hairs in the picture...
>>
>>98774169
test the colour schemes on your models, no program will ever be better than paint on a model for testing a scheme
>>
>>98774302
I have two cats one with long hair one with short.
Neither are a cat hair problem because they get regular baths.
It's just like with people, if you don't shower and wash your hair regularly you shed a lot too.
>>
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>>
>>98774770
i dont like the white it just feels wrong and makes the whole model look like a mishmash put togetger in a hurry without any thought
skin and weapon and eyes are very nice though
>>
>>98774770
paint the hair blue too to give it some balance and that way you can leave the bird hair white and it will act as an accent colour and at the same time make it pop and look awesome
>>
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Pretty poor picture but I'm unsure about the scheme. I like the green and pink but the "white" which is actually Vallejo Glacier Blue, I feel it's got too much blue in it, I've tried mixing Vallejo Cold White into it but it just instantly makes the paint cover like dogshit.
I've tried so many alternatives for white but all of them have that nasty sort of yellowish tint to them, I want a nice cool grey with a blue tint which Glacier Blue is almost perfect for.
>>
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Orktober Night #3. A regular Ork Boy Mini in a regular Goff color scheme. One thing I don't like about these Armageddon Boyz is how some of them are designed to basically look like they're wearing only the back half of a shirt.
>>
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RIP. Replacement is on the way.
>>
>>98776141
I would kill myself ngl
>>
>>98773982
>>98773808
first of all it's not varnish it's a clear midcoat and it doesn't have to be acrylic. you can use tamiya or mr hobby clear. it's not really about reactivation either. you do it so that you can erase layers above it using solvent using a qtip or a tool like this
https://volksusa.store/products/4571180800323
usually you are using enamels since they dry slowly and you can remove it with lighter fluid. here is a video of someone using the technique to paint eyes but you can use it for other things like reverse washes.
>>
>>98775992
it looks like some kind of watermelon gum packaging bruh.
>>
>>98776344
shit forgot to link video
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Vjyu0phCF7A
he talks about the clear at 5:20 in (turn auto translate on).
>>
>>98775992
>>98775992
arizona iced tea riptide.
>>
>>98775992
i dont get it
>>98776004
i like your ork even if half of it is in shadow
dont skip on that checkerboard because those squares not actually connecting makes it look like weird white boxes drawn on an armor
>>
>>98772689
Fucking nightmare fuel
>>
>>98776509
its called a commercial and you are supposed to pay no attention to it unless you are the one promoting it in which case its called an astroturf
but we dont have any of those here right
>>
>>98776344
>first of all it's not varnish it's a clear midcoat
Ie varnish. Are you the autist who thinks it's only varnish if it's shellac based and meant for wood or whatever the fuck it was?

> it's not really about reactivation either. you do it so that you can erase layers above it using solvent using a qtip or a tool like this
And what happens if you try that without the varnish? That's right, you reactivate the underlying layer(s) and wipe them off as well.
>>
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>>98771836
Looking at the pic it makes more sense. The artwork for the box has a very different shape.
Now I just need to do the detailing and figure out how to make the staff glow more.
>>
>>98776542
Wtf do u mean

Its not a commercial? Its not for sale

Been posting on tg for over a decade

Just a hobbyist
>>
Now that everybody has had their hands on it the definitive tone pro verdict is in.
If you haven't been keeping track:
>They are quality paints, up to par with other high quality paint ranges on the market right now
>They are an upgrade over existing GW paints, but not appreciably better over other lines

If you see a creator saying anything differently, they are lying.
>>
>>98772434
>>98772520
did you use IRL reference pictures for the mud accumulation? Some of it feels like it shouldn't gather where it is gathering. like on the bottom of the left side's headlights. I could be mistaken, though.
>>
Do I need to use a primer if I just applied mod podge + black paint? Or will the mod podge serve the same purpose as a primer
>>
>>98776855
I don't think you technically need to, but an extra layer of primer definitely wouldn't hurt.
>>
>>98776570
shellac isn't really varnish it's shellac. it's made out of bug goo and dissolved in alcohol while varnish is oil based and cut with mineral spirits. either way they have nothing to do with clear coats that you use on painted things.

>That's right, you reactivate the underlying layer(s) and wipe them off as well.
it's not "reactivating" any more than you're "reactivating" acrylic paint by stripping it with alcohol. the midcoat is specifically because of solvent resistance to allow you to remove layers above it, not because you're afraid of lower layers being reactivated by solvent components of higher layers.
>>
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>>98765851
>Accidentally bought primer you use in an airbrush instead of normal primer
>All the stores that sell mini primer closed by now
Well that's one lesson learned. Can I just use this stuff with a brush, or am I waiting til' tomorrow to buy a can of the right primer?
>>
>>98773129
Nice
>>
>>98772689
>(((GSW))) Paints
Not
Even
Once
>>
>>98773125
honestly his comment in the freehanding and edge highlighting flow is the only feedback thats sold me on picking up 4-5 colors I could use.
>>
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finally almost done with this thing
>>
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I really wanted to get these guys done over the weekend. But i havent gotten a chance to sit and paint yet and probably won't do it tomorrow either.
>>
>>98776876
I don’t think there’s anything stopping it from being brushed on.
Is it Stynylrez?
>>
I wanted to do a little cleaning of my airbrushes before starting today and turns out I needed to do a lot of cleaning. The nozzles on both of the airbrushes needed to be taken apart and fucked with a brush. and the dried paint chips just kept coming. Hopefully will fix some of my issues I've been having recently.
>>
>>98776876
You'll probably be able to brush it on. I use Vallejo black airbrush primer on my base rims and they've held up pretty well.
Make sure to give it 24h to cure before painting over it, otherwise it might be a little fragile for the first couple hours, even if it's dry. It needs time to cure.
But I would honestly recommend just buying rattlecan primer, it's so much better than brush on it's not even funny (don't listen to the one autist who shills brush-on primer)
>>
>>98777275
What kind of airbrush cleaner do you use? If you get a bottle of Tamiya cleaner it will obliterate all stray paint chips (it contains acetone), and it has the exact same recipe as Tamiya extra thin cement, so can be used to refill your plastic glue pots.
>>
>>98777295
The cleaner I use to flush it out after each use is just a generic airbrush cleaner from amazon put into some water into a wash bottle. I thought it was working well, when I pushed water through the airbrush after rinsing it a few times, it's usually clear water. But I guess some of the paint is getting impacted in the small gaps. Maybe I need to up the ratio of cleaner to water.
>>
>>98777321
Get something that'll actually dissolve the stray particles, a generic cleaner won't do that. Tamiya airbrush cleaner does this (again, it contains acetone).
>>
>>98777268
>>98777292
Oh that's good to hear, it's a bottle of Vallejo stuff. But admittedly I had already learned that there's a place I never knew about right next to my house that's open way later.
>>
>>98776869
>the midcoat is specifically because of solvent resistance to allow you to remove layers above it
Unless you are blasting your minis with 2k clear it's not going to be solvent resistant enough to let you strip *acrylic paint* without affecting the layer underneath, which is what this whole discussion was about. Enamels and oils, sure.
>>
>>98773808
The other anons are right, but I've heard that acrylic paints on top of a full lacquer coat can be remove with gentle application of isopropyl alcohol without immediately effecting the lacquer underneath.
It's my understanding that soaking a model in isopropyl will strip lacquer, but not careful application.
However, if you make a mistake with acrylic paints, it's often better to just rinse off your brush and remove the mistake with your clean damp brush immediately after you make the mistake and before the paint dries.
>>
>>98776889
Redpill me
>>
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>>98776792
Most of the dust accumulated on the tank towards the driving direction, that's whay most stuff is on the front and the edges. It's a desert-themed diorama so I thought there should be more visible sand on the darker toned tank chassis.
>>
>>98777590
jewish owned company that has a long history of ripping off little creators, tentacle tool guy, they make a identical product then use legal action against the person they ripped off, also the colour shift fiasco too name a few
and to top it off most of their stuff is rebranded cheap chinkshit, see something you like they make? just search aliexpress or temu
Literally the worst company in this hobby
>>
>>98777623
>also the colour shift fiasco
never heard of this
>>
I have finished my one ork. I likely won't do the base for a few months until I finish a few more, likely icy and snowy.
>>
>>98777844
too many for one shot
>>
>>98777623
>jewish owned company
source?
jewish as in actual jews or the practices? there aren't many jews in spain
>>
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Best way to strip paint without damaging the plastic? I’ve been using 91% isopropyl, but think I’ll have better luck with 99%. Or is there a better way? The 91 has cut through most of the red but hasn’t touched the black primer. I’m okay if the primer stays though, but I really want to clean up ALL of the red. It seems to have plateaued at its current state and not much more is coming off with each new bath and scrub.

If it helps: what I’m doing is cleaning up older models from when I first started. I didn’t pay much attention to painting techniques and ended up with really clumpy sprays and lost details. Most of them are just going to be repainted properly (Blood Angels), but this dreadnought is likely going to end up bashed as a Tsons helbrute.
>>
>>98777979
Just paint over this. It's smooth, isn't it?
>>
>>98777979
To answer what might be a question:
“If you’re going to repaint them red, why do you care if you get up all the red?”

As I mentioned, the spray was super clumpy on a lot of them and especially so in areas with a lot of detail. Adding more to it now would probably yield the same result as I previously had, maybe not as bad, but not ideal.
>>
>>98777980
See:
>>98777984
Some of the red paint, especially in the cracks, is still lumped in there and I don’t think fresh layers will fix it, just exasperate the loss of detail.
>>
>>98777987
*exacerbate
get biostrip 20
>>
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Done with these
A bazillion more left
>>
>>98777957
>you have to be in a country to own stuff there
kek
>>
If I would want to use dishwashing solution to get rid of oils and such before priming, do I need to scrub the minis with toothbrush or just submerging and keeping them like that for minute or two would be enough? I'm talking about metal minis (Corvus Belli) here but I guess the question applies for plastic elements as well.
>>
>>98777979
If you really want to get rid of thicker layers of paint and/or primer, I'm afraid that the only way is to use dedicated stripping solutions for given type of paint. I have some local Polish solution that smells horrible, makes my head dizzy but strip absolutely everything while leaving plastic intact.
>>
>>98778548
do you wash your dishes just by dipping them into soapy water or do you give them a scrub and a rinse too
>>
>>98778614
Tricky question - I scrub them but my mother don't, apparently to save on water. But I guess I get what you want to say.
>>
>>98778739
the water is already out of the tap, how does not agitating it when the dirty dish is submegred save the water? does she drink the dishwater?
>>
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The dragon is now finished! I had to do some finangling with the pointed hand making the model tilt, but I think the treasure chest work thematically.
I'm pretty happy with the wings and face too
Overall it was a pretty good model and I'm happy to throw it on a table one day
>>
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And a flip side, with the hand on the chest. Model is all metal, so it was really unbalanced without it
>>
>>98778772
i like the silly retro dragon
>>
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AND a cleric of Gorhan! This one was one my first attempts at adding green stuff conversions, the shield and spear were additions that I made a green stuff belt for. It came out... OK, but I really like adding weapons to his load out! I think the red and white work well too
>>
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And the cloak and shield, cloak looks decently velvety in person I'd say


>>98778780
Thank you! He's goofy for sure
>>
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I'm trying to decide a colour scheme for a SoB army. I'm circling around a metallic light blue/white scheme, with varying colours for the cloths and tabbards depending on the role. I have a couple of questions, though.

-Is the yellow combination for the SoBs in vehicles good? Yellow is a difficult colour to pull off correctly, especially on cloth.

-What is the best way to paint metallic light blue that does not involve airbrush? I don't have one. Also, any recommended colours/paints?

-Should the HQs have some red/white pattern on their tabbards? I want to make them more distinct from the regular grunts, other than golden edges. Any other suggestion is appreciated.

-
>>
>>98778886
yellow? you need to see an optometrist (not a joke)
>>
>>98778886
-Yellow can be difficult, just practice a bit on a test piece of some kind until you like the result.
-Either buy a metallic blue or slap a blue translucent paint over a silver metallic. Blue ink works best, but stuff like contrast/speed paint works fine. Don't know about specific paints, check Stahly's.
-Up to you, but I think the yellow you plan on vehicles is a good option for HQs. It makes them stand out while keeping the army scheme narrow, increasing cohesiveness.
>>
>>98778886
Tabards are sacred and are the oath of the sisterhood. Do not deviate their tabard colors. You will regret it.

Deviating their armor plates is another issue. You could say, make hands red or white depending on their role for example. Even a helmet change in color like marines do.

With a crystal theme (sky blue+white) I would make them on a tundra or snow base.

I like a crystal theme with:
Dark reds.
Pastel or teal greens.
Gray and heavy shading.
Purples, delving into pinks (purple for shadows).

I wouldn't mix themes from the above unless you're REALLY good at shading.
>>
>>98776355
Far better than the >>98776374 allegations, I'll take it.
>>98776450
I just want a good white...the never ending search for white that doesn't have that gross yellow tinge to it.
>>
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I have to ask, do you guys care for this?

https://www.warhammer-community.com/en-gb/articles/13drg5hr/sunday-preview-warhammer-tone-pro/
>>
After looking into the issue, it seems like I was diluting the airbrush cleaner way too much. It's actually supposed to be used straight from the bottle, not mixed with water. I thought it was like bleach where you mix a tbsp with a gallon of water.

I feel stupid.
>>
>>98779253
Some airbrush cleaners can be mixed, but these will tell you (like VMS, which sell you a concentrate for you to mix). Classic gold standard shit like Medea is supposed to be used straight.

Also, is that you, airbrush clogging issue anon? Is the horror finally over?
>>
>>98779249
no you don't, mister marketer
>>
>>98779249
>normal modern acrylic hobby paint like from other brands, virtually no benefit or edge over something like AK 3rd gen
>twice as expensive
>in the most shitass pots imaginable
Why would I care for it?
>>
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I finished two of the five Exodite terrain pieces for my Kill Team project today.
It's the Retro Warp Portal by Doctor Spork painted in to match the Exodite stuff in the Kill Team box.
I was considering doing edge highlights, but I actually think it looks better without on bigger terrain pieces like this. It looks more real to me. I've become more hesitant with edge highlighting in general after building a couple of Gundam kits. They look great and natural in some areas, but I also think they kinda make things look more fake in other areas.

I have to say, doing these two pieces and the rusty equipment the other day has given me confidence that this whole project is going to look pretty cool when it's done. I was worried because I haven't painted in 15 years, but it's not as bad as I was thinking. Some aspects are weirdly enough better than I've ever painted.
4 player Kill team board with a bunch of Eldar and Ork terrain + five different teams (35 minis in total).

I'm doing three classic 2nd edition ork huts (also from Doctor Spork) as the next bits. Already done a few coats of paint on them. Doing a bunch of 2nd edition cacti, barbed wire shit and three more big Exodite terrain pieces.

I still haven't begun on any of the minis yet, but I'm very much in terrain mode right now, so I'll continue painting and building all that before doing actual minis.
I'll post more when it's done.
>>
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>>98779307
Here's the second one I finished.
I used this as the first test piece. This was before I learned a proper way to do the marble effect. I just winged it. It doesn't look like marble at all, it looks more like some weird viking flame thingies.
But I'm going to combine this and the marble effect on the other Exodite pieces, because they're pillars that form a sort of gateway thing. So my idea is to make the marble effect do a subtle spiral up each pillar. A bit like how the energy flows through everything in the Kaladesh plane in Magic.
>>
>>98779249
Fuck no, piss off marketer faggot
>>
>>98779283
not me, but I've been getting a bunch of sputtering and such, so after taking everything apart and cleaning, hopefully those issues will take longer to show up between each deep clean.
>>
>>98779316
Anon I don't want to alarm you but your photos have radiation artifacts
>>
>>98779249
your multimillionaire bosses can afford to buy a fucking advertisement banner here, if they dont want to be associated with 4chan in doing so THEN GTFO AND STFU FAGGOT
>>
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I just got a new fdm printer last week and I am pretty fucking impressed with how well it's doing so far. Obviously i will never get show room level quality without resin but, for making table quality to push around? It definitely gets the job done.

Bambu p2s w/ .02mm nozzle
>>
>>98779466
So.... you decided to buy a printer for figurines instead of terrain and you already knew FDM was the wrong tool and resin is the correct tool and you chose FDM anyway?
Idiot.
>>
>>98779476
No, I bought an fdm for mostly terrain. The miniature quality is a bonus. I didn't get a resin printer because I don't want all the toxic chemicals and fumes in my house.
>>
>>98779466
>w/ .02mm nozzle
Why is it so bloody hard for people to remember the order of magnitude for the nozzle opening size? It's not like a 2mm or 0.02mm nozzle would even make any sense given the results if you bothered to think about it. And, yeah, that's a kinda laconic if there.
>>
>>98779502
I'm very sorry that I had a typo, you fucking dork.
>>
>>98777275
this is why you clean after you paint before it has time to dry. man I don't understand you people who act like it's too much of a burden to spend 5-10 minutes cleaning your tools after you're done painting. I imagine if you were doing woodworking or metalworking you would be up to your knees in sawdust or metal chips because taking the time to sweep after working is too much trouble.

>>98777321
>>98777376
I don't see the point of buying airbrush cleaner. just get a gallon jug of acetone and it will take care of anything. plus you can use it to strip metal minis.

>>98777492
you don't do this technique with acrylics as the higher layer. it's specifically for enamels or oils. furthermore if you were painting arylics on top of enamels there's no way they would reactivate the enamels since acrylics are water based. even alcohol based acrylics won't affect enamel.
>>
>>98778573
does it contain methyl chloride? I didn't know if that would dissolve plastic or not.

>>98778767
idk about scrubbing but I heard bongs don't rinse their dishes and put them to dry still covered in soap suds. fucking animals.

>>98778886
the white tabards look good but the orange and yellow are kind of clown looking. if it was me I would stick with white for the entire army and use any other colors for trim or stripes. actually I wouldn't use orange for the armor trim either and stick with gold, silver, or bronze. red would be ok on the tabards but I would limit it to a decal or a similar scale pattern.
>>
>>98779553
>I don't see the point of buying airbrush cleaner. just get a gallon jug of acetone
NTA, but you don't even need acetone for acrylics, not to mention it stinks as fuck. There are cheap odorless solutions, like Medea. Much comfier to work with.
>>
>>98779486
See? you are a moron.
you've fallen for fear-mongering propaganda not supported by any observable or evidenced case.
even the safety data that companies publish to protect themselves from worst-case scenario lawsuits doesnt even suggest it as an issue.
>>
>>98779599
>not to mention it stinks as fuck.
it's not brake cleaner or toluene. I've used acetone so much I don't even notice the smell. it's not even toxic.
>>
My local places only stocking GW, Army Painter and Vallejo fucking sucks ass man
>>
>>98779592
the proper method for washing dishes hygeinically (and in consideration of "wasted" water use) is to pile up dishes in the wash half of the sink until full, to then fill it with water and add soap, wait about 10 minutes for dry material to soak up, then scrub them all and put them in the drying rack IN the other half of the sink, when that is full then rinse them all off with hot water.
depending on how dirty it got the wash basin can be refilled afterward, maximizing the use of the soap and the water.
I have seen many people run the tap while washing dishes one at a time from beside the sink under the faucet, or even to do so as dishes get used, this is incredibly inefficient.
>>
>>98779618
Vallejo's fine. But no reason not to order from AK directly, no?
>>
>>98779618
Mine stocks GW, AP and Reaper but the Reaper selection has been getting smaller and smaller every time I go. I assume they aren't even restocking it anymore and are just very slowly getting through what they had in storage which sucks if true because it's my preferred option of the three.
>>
>>98779626
ordering online only really makes sense in bulk or else I get assfucked in shipping costs
>>
Got a question for any Guard and/or Historical bros out there. Context first: got the Spectre squad KT box and some Scions that I wanna paint up as the First Special Forces Service members, also known as The Devils Brigade, in honor of my great-grandfather who was one. I primed them black already. My question is this: Would it be better to do a “zenithal” of brown or just dry brush them brown wholly to get a natural shade?
I’ve never done natural colors or painted more “normal” type guys. Just Space Marines in orange or red, I understand the garish colors more than earthy tones. Gonna push myself to paint a bunch of faces too, which I despise because I suck at it.
Follow up question-what would be a good color for their armor pieces, light gray, black or a dark metallic? Picrel is the palette I’m going off of. I know modern soldiers have their plate carriers keep their uniform colors but I would like a bit of contrast so it shows instead of blends
>>
>>98779681
You can get specific historically accurate paints for the job. AK AFV range is my favorite (it's their regular 3rd gen, but accurate present and historical military colors). Generally speaking, you are looking for Brownish Green (actual name), Olive Drab, No. 9 Olive Drab, No. 1 Light Green, No. 5 Earth Brown, alternatively British Khakis, and similar shades. AK (AFV) makes them, Vallejo has equivalents, too.
Ignore hobby paints, even if they are named right "Olive Green" because they are nowhere near correct color.

I would probably do the uniform/undersuit with khaki/brown, and kept the armor in darker OD.
>>
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>>98778895
What?

>>98778936
>>98778933
>>98779592

Maybe simplifying the tabbard colour ranges will be better? A red/white for HQs with the rest being full white is more manageable, and delete the yellow one completely since they aren't that many anyway (I wonder if GW will ever make biker sisters at some point). I'll keep the silver trim for the regular grunts and the golden trim for heavy weapons and HQs.

>>98778936
I had planned a beach/near the shore theme for the bases. Not sure how to make it without making it look too much like desert, though.
>>
>>98779601
It's really not good for you.
You should learn how to read an SDS. I have to for work all the time.

https://elegoo-downloads.oss-us-west-1.aliyuncs.com/download.elegoo.com/04%20LCD%20Printer/12%20Photopolymer%20Resin/Water%20Washable%20Resin/ELEGOO%20Water%20Washable%20Photopolymer%20Resin%20MSDS%20Report-2022.PDF
>>
>>98779458
What?? the lines in the background? that's just a cheap printer
>>
>>98777844
I love how you used the brush strokes to give it texture. It's striking.
How long did you spend on him?
>>
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I finally finished Malal's lot. It was a fun side project.
>>
>>98777844
Striking. Are you going to make a full ork army with this level of detail? Because if so, damn.
>>
>>98778526
didn't say that, afaik it's a spanish company founded by spanish people
>>
>>98780037
Greenstuffworld is a Spanish company. It says so in the page.

https://www.greenstuffworld.com/es/content/4-sobre-nosotros
>>
>>98779726
>I wonder if GW will ever make biker sisters at some point
Make your own. Kitbashing/converting is satisfying as fuck.
>>
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I've bought my first TOW minis and decided on this color scheme.
I realized there's like 4 different brands of paint, which ones are actually good?
>>
>>98779726
That is green, not yellow, if you see it as yellow there is a very good chance you are experiencing a small degree of colour blindness.
>>
>>98780037
>>98780054
Yes well jews will often say "I am of X ethnicity" when it isn't specifically advantageous to say "I am a jew"
>>
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>>98780130
I checked the color, it is yellow allright.
>>
>>98780125
Avoid Citadel (not because quality, but because of the pots). In my experience Vallejo is quite good, it's what I use the most. AK is also decent, though I prefer Vallejo. I haven't tried Army Painter, so I can't comment.
>>
>>98780147
Chartreuse is a green herbal liqeur, hence the name of the co,our, often synonymous with lime.
Book that appointment
Also
>selecting one pixel of the highlight only
laughable, pure yellows are often used to highlight green and this one couldn't even be identified as a pure yellow.
>>
>>98780329
>Book that appointment
You're having a semantic argument, anon. He sees yellow and green just fine, he just defines them slightly differently. Stop being obtuse.
>>
>>98780382
Except it wouldn't be the first time someone here found out they had mild colorblindness over an argument like this.
It's barely got a hint of yelliw at the highest point, it's 80%+ in the green spectrum
>>
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Quick and dirty color testing out this gold NMM recipe and really digging the saturation. Using magenta and red shadows.
>>
>>98780666
I hope that's a backpack for Celestial Lions
>>
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Quick and dirty color testing out this gold NMM recipe and really digging the saturation. Using magenta and red shadows.
>>98780674

Yup. Exactly. Also tried out a leg to see a larger piece. May repaint this because its messy as hell.
>>
>>98780674
t. ork sniper
>>
>>98780636
>Except it wouldn't be the first time
Doesn't mean it's true every time.
>it's 80%+ in the green spectrum
What do you mean by that? It's right on the edge of yellow and green, only veering slightly into the green spectrum.
>>
>>98777844
cool cucumber/zucchini skin, what are the dark and mid greens?
>>
>>98779486
Just fyi, fdm printing release a ton of very toxic fine particles.
>>
>>98781015
Toxic fumes too, you're melting plastic afterall.
An open window should be enough to filter it out of the room so long as you are not staying in the room for extended periods of time (think sleeping/working). DON'T 3D print in the same room that you sleep.
>>
>>98780783
No, chartreuse is right on the edge, and that is, again, only identified in a pixel of the HIGHLIGHT, take your hex dropper and put it into the shadow and you'll find out that colour is absolutely in the green spectrum.
>>
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Almost ready for the game! Just need more trees and bushes.
>>
>>98781148
printing in the kitchen is fine though!
but yeah, as far as fumes go both kinds have some level of them, but neither kind is doing so on a truly worrisome level, driving a vehicle is worse, being in a city is worse, using febreze is worse, etc... etc... it's absurd to get all worked up over THIS particular instance of toxic chemicals in your life when an overwhelming amount of what you expose yourself to daily is just as toxic or even more toxic.
do not drink the resin and you will be fine.

All this fear mongering just seems to be the lowest hanging branch for people who object to the idea of printing but since attacking the freedom to make what you want at a low price doesnt get support they go for "think of the children!!!" as that's what the hyperinflated health concern tactic basically boils down to.
>>
>>98779622
idk I just use the dishwasher. the way someone on /int/ was explaining it bongs wash their dishes in the sink and then just put them on the drying rack without rinsing them off because they're afraid of wasting water or something. anyway I forget where this line of discussion was going but I guess the take away is that you shouldn't listen to people who call dish soap "fairy liquid" tell you that clear coat is "varnish."
>>
>>98781290
meh, washing dishes is only necessary for the dysgenic! we once had tables with bowls cut right into the tabletop and they'd be wiped off with plain water.
Hygiene isnt a moot point mind you, but with the discovery of bacteria mankind has generally gone way overboard with it to the point of breeding a weaker immune system as a result.
>>
>>98778772
>>98778777
he cute
>>
>>98779772
>You should learn how to read an SDS. I have to for work all the time.
NTA, but if this is the case then you would know that the resin you linked to ranks somewhere between shaving cream and ammonia-based household cleaners in terms of danger, and it's closer to the shaving cream if anything.

>>98781352
>washing dishes is only necessary for the dysgenic!
It's also for people that don't enjoy diarrhea and parasites, which your ancestors often dealt with, immune systems notwithstanding. They also often didn't survive childhood. Wash your fucking dishes.
>>
>>98777623
Yeah I've heard they are a shady company, will avoid thanks.
>>
>>98778548
I leave them in a soapy bath for a few minutes then toothbrush them with soap and rinse them.
>>
>>98781240
Idiots like you haven't dealt with long term health problems have you?
VOCs are an issue. Lots of things we thought were "just fine" have turned out to be carcinogenic, mutagenic, severe irritants, immune-disruptors, or endocrine-disruptors. Like anything hazardous, be careful to limit exposure, and just set the printers up in the garage, instead of your bedroom or kitchen.
>>
>>98780054
True, the owner is Spanish and looks Spanish and has a very Spanish name
>Israel Soriano Garcia
>>
>>98777623
>Literally the worst company in this hobby
A notable percentage of people would argue it is AK Interactive to this day because of that condemnation book they put out.
I am not really iffy on GSW. Aside from them being one of the few makers of greenstuff that comes in tubes instead of attached strips. That's about it.
>>
gsw is bad, ak is bad, gw is bad, vallejo is bad. ap is bad...
see the pattern? they are companies and we live in capitalism
just buy wherever is convenient for you and let people do the same
>>
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Working on a full table of terrain for 40k 11th. Gonna be half imperial and half drukhari webway. As if the battlefield is half in and out of the webway to simulate the raid.
>>
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Made a forever winter style tank from an old airfix IS-2 and some tau bits. need to add washes and dirty down rust next
>>
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It's drukhari partner.

Very rough base paint, but good enough for the table while I get all the other pieces together. Slow and steady. Happy with how it turned out. There will be statues (models that die mid game) on top of each plinth.
>>
>>98782670
nothing wrong with AK and that book was hilarious
>makers of greenstuff
lmao
are you serious or are you high?
>>
>>98782700
>ak is bad, vallejo is bad. ap is bad
No
Do better
>>
>>98782804
>nothing wrong with AK and that book was hilarious
I think Ak has a few bad products in them like every company's lineup.
>book was hilarious
In a "trying too hard to be edgy" kind of way and then went too far somehow?
>makers of greenstuff
lmao
are you serious or are you high?
Depending on who you're asking it could be worse than both. I am tired and sleep deprived and trying to fix my sleep schedule by being a trooper and staying awake.
I should have said something like GSW being one of the few companies that packages greenstuff where it isn't a strip of greenstuff attached to each other and instead being separate strips. Meaning slightly more Greenstuff to use.
>>
>>98782670
GSW isn't a manufacturer, it's a repackager, they repackages stuff and put their label on it
>>
>>98782815
Also greenstuff is extinct, knradalite stopped making it in Feb
>>
>>98779874
I dig them, are they for Kill Team?
>>98781232
Nice table
>>98782707
>>98782709
Cool concept, post more bits you finish
>>
>>98782829
>Also greenstuff is extinct, knradalite stopped making it in Feb
Is it really extinct in the "lost technology never to be recovered" way?
If it is gone then what do I go for now when I run out of my two tubes of Greenstuff?
>>
>>98782836
tamiya putties are pretty solid, I switched years ago
>>
>>98782837
Which Tamiya Putty is closest to greenstuff then?
But seriously is greenstuff as it is/was now lost because the ingredients are now forgotten with the plant's closure?
>>
>>98782814
>ak
>https://modelerssocialclub.proboards.com/thread/6965/mig-jimenez-vallejo-big-falling
>vallejo
>https://www.elperiodico.com/es/economia/20241210/warhammer-fabrica-pinturas-acrylicos-vallejo-huelga-vilanova-i-la-geltru-112450247
>ap
>their product's are so bad they have to scrap and remake them while paying shills to pretend they aren't

again i buy from whatever is convenient
>>
>>98782836
I'm pretty sure GSW still makes or sell it. Come on, it's one US factory, don't act like it's lost forever or anything.
>>
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Chaos boxnought
>>
>>98782897
nta, that exact formulation is either patented and not expired or more probably, secret, so unless someone buys the company or the formula yes, the gs we know is 'lost forever'
some sites still sell it, probably old stock, gsw may or may not have been selling a chinese copy all this time, but i find that unlikely

there's another company doing the best copy they can to sell it themselves tho (not gsw)
>>
>>98778573
Damn that sucks. Though I may just have to give it a go and take the risk. My buddy was telling me about something he saw in a YT video that worked really well and only left some discoloration. I’ll have to ask him for a link. My biggest concern is having the plastic turn brittle/breaking. I already broke the smoke launchers on top just scrubbing with the alcohol, though I was planning to remove them anyway.
>>
>>98782365
No, because household cleaner tier "toxins" don't cause such issues so long as you don't consume them.
>>
>>98782820
GSW actually makes some of their stuff. Not saying it's not a shitty company, but they do make some shit of their own.

>>98782869
>>https://modelerssocialclub.proboards.com/thread/6965/mig-jimenez-vallejo-big-falling
>only posts Jimenez claims
If you shitpost, at least do it not so obviously.
>>
>>98778099
Thank you for the correction and suggestion. I was in another conversation where I used “exasperate” so I guess that was fresh on my mind.
>>
>>98782582
called it! >>98780135
>>
>>98782897
>Come on, it's one US factory, don't act like it's lost forever or anything.
I was just a little surprised that's all. It sucks that it is "gone" in the sense that what anon said over at >>98782940 so copies had to be made.
I feel like I have to "ration" my greenstuff now. I procrastinated on sculpting a miniature like a smiling mushroom miniature with basic tools.
I saw Tamiya putty mentioned but I'm not sure how well those are for sculpting miniatures. So I'm feeling hesitant now to use my greenstuff that I have. Unless the Tamiya putty is great for gap filling and resin bubble filling then I'll be happy to just use that and greenstuff for the model sculpting for fun if I get around to it.
>>
>>98782978
maybe you can try an ultrasonic cleaner
>>
>>98782996
was greenstuff ever the best option for gap filling? doesn't it shrink a lot?
>>
>>98779249
Only things I'm interested in are shading medium and blending medium because I am curious as to what they really are like glaze medium or matte medium etc.
But also I am interested to how the other companies like ArmyPainter and AK will make their own hopefully better alternatives to whatever Tone Pro puts out like what they did with Contrast paints.
If there is anything actually worth mimicking that came out of Tone Pro. Triads of colors in different tones were a thing long before this.

I am still looking for the best white and yellow acrylic paint for miniature painting. Does even have to be originally marketed for miniature painting. I'm wondering if there is a paint producing company that has already figured it out.
>>
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Glade guard/deepwood scout
>>
>>98783002
>was greenstuff ever the best option for gap filling? doesn't it shrink a lot?
I'm not sure. It has been a while since I used greenstuff for anything. I haven't done this hobby in a long time. Like a "dark age" if the adult lego fan term means anything.
I just added greenstuff to one hole of a resin model I remember then more until it was full. Was pretty proud of myself that I fixed it.
>>
>>98783008
that brown undercoat is a really nice choice, very fitting for the mini
>>
>>98783012
I'm lazy af, the first layer always has to do a lot of work in my book lol
>>
>>98783002
It doesn't shrink, GS was overall quite "rubbery" in feeling which also meant that it was not as fragile as other, more rigid solutions, like Miliput. It was quite common for people to mix 50-50 of GS and Miliput to get both durable and rigid putty, also helped that Miliput was around 4 times cheaper than GS, at least in Europe.

But around year ago tried MENG/Dspiae (same company anyway) putty and it had same performance as mentioned GS/Miliput mix while costing the same as Miliput so situation is not as bad I guess.
>>
>>98783008
That really is shaping up delightfully
What's the sculpt?
>>
>>98783020
Thanks, they're Sylvan Elves pathfinders from Titan Forge
>>
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Okay, it was that one. Apparently not available anymore, what the hell...
>>
>>98782996
tamiya is good, it's very sticky (to tools) and soft and can be somewhat disolved by water, it's a bit like if you mixed gs and milliput
it cures hard, wich you may or may not like it

there's at least an anon here or in /wfg/ that uses it for his (chaos?) dwarfs with good results, i haven't used it much for detail work (yet)
>>
This seems like a very fair assessment of the new GW paints
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UmCcDZtPm_c
>>
>>98783063
I'm just... not going to buy them!
>>
>>98783063
>annoying nasal voice
>WHAT YOU NEED TO KNOW
>manly manring on every finger
>half of the video about paint is looking at this moron's face
>gaayhleri airbrush (but don't worry bros, I only received it for free, the review will be fair)
Buy an add.
>>
>>98783114
>half of the video about paint is looking at this moron's face
I hate this so fucking much its unreal bros
>>
>>98782833
>Kill Team
They are mainly for 40k RPGs.
They are probably missing some options for KT, since they are the monopose from Blackstone Fortress
>>
>>98779328
>>98779459
>>98779286
Uh-huh. Good to know how much your knees were jerked.
>>98779295
Good question. If you're not hellbent into one brand, they'd be little (or no) insentive if the quality and type of the paints are the same as other brands; or if said companies end up producing alternatives of the same novelty that GW is pushing. There may be a greater appeal when it comes to the new Medium pods, and perhaps even of their "pro" brushes.
>>98783007
A fair assessment, I think.
>I am still looking for the best white and yellow acrylic paint for miniature painting.
Can't help you with that, sorry to say.
>>
>>98779601
>guy says he wanted to print terrain too
>duhhh you fell for the fear-mongering!4!4
lmao, and you are the one calling others idiots
>>
>>98783190
I really wish printfags stayed in their containment thread, its literally always the same shitposts when someone mentions it here. also the "you fell for reddit fearmongering bro" sounds strangely like craftsperg but I dont want to believe hes responsible for those shitposts as well
>>
>>98783239
It's him. He prints his shit, and you can see this retarded "you can drink resin bro, it's safe" mongoloid shit reposted with iron regularity.
>>
>>98783114
>>98783127
why so negative?
>>
>>98783292
Are you retarded?
>>
>>98783243
Yeah craftsperg usually posts during american night hours
rent-free idiots
>>
>>98783292
>no, you don't understand, I want to see some retard's face instead of a video subject
>I also need advertisements in every video I watch
>I love clickbait video names, too
>>
>>98783365
The video went over some of the things I was wondering about (airbrush performance in particular), and gave a fair and balanced view on the new paints.
I ask again, why so negative?
>>
>>98783379
I gave you multiple reasons. If you want to eat shit, it's your choice, but don't expect others to eat it, too.
You might also be the faggot in question, in which case, go buy an ad.
>>
>>98783114
>gaayhleri airbrush (but don't worry bros, I only received it for free, the review will be fair)

I see them frequently too, last time I went to group building event and few people placed painting booth and other airbrush stuff to encourage others to test them, one of airbrushes were from Ghalieri, the trigger felt quite nice but I wonder - are they actually good or simply heavily advertised?
>>
>>98783292
This thread hates most painting channels, usually with good reason.
>>
>>98783501
Gaahleri is the usual run-of-the-mill chinkbrush company, but one that has excellent marketing. They are known to flood their stuff even to little youtubers, which is why you can see their shit even with some 2k subs literallywhos. It has nothing to do with the quality of the tool.
This aggressive marketing, of course, leads to reddit loving Gaayhleri.

If you are looking for a budget airbrush, just get something like Fengda BD-180.
>>
>>98783530
I got used to their GHAD-68. Their youtuber marketing got me.
So what airbrush shaped like the pistol grip do I move to after I'm done with it or want to do more than priming/varnishing?
>>
>>98783547
>So what airbrush shaped like the pistol grip
Is it something you need because of some health issue or such, or something you just prefer?
>>
>>98783547
>move to after I'm done with it
do you plan on breaking it or something? it's not working properly?
what's your (planned) reason to need another one?
>>
Next ork, not quite the same color.

>>98779853
>>98779921

Thanks! I hope to make an army at full detail. Pic related took about 4 hours, though I haven't quite solved my formula, I mess around a bit with my colors
>>
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>>98780999
da paints, though the moss green label doesn't quite match the paint, it's mostly my midtone
>>
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Orktober Day #4. I forgot to post last night.
I had some decent progress on a pair of Warbosses too.
>>
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>>98779249
>I have to ask, do you guys care for this?
TLDR; I don't expect Tone Pro to have a huge impact on how I paint or how nice my finished pieces look, but I will likely buy a few colours.

The Tone Pro demo started the same day as one of my local Warhammer stores' anniversary began, so I went up there for that and tried out the paints while I was there.

The coverage is indeed superior to existing Citadel paints, but I don't think it's all it's cracked up to be. As an experiment, I brought with me one of the push-fit models from the beginner set that I had undercoated with Ace Hardware light grey primer instead of white like I usually do. The Tone Pro red covered the grey better than Evil Sunz Scarlet would have, but not so much so that it would make me want to rush out and buy it the day it releases.

The manager and I then experimented with mixing the new medium with the white paint, and that ended up giving it properties similar to a white ink or panel liner. There is potential there, but if you already have inks or a wash that does the job consistently to your liking - especially if it is also less expensive - then that's little more than a novelty.
>>
>>98783893
CAN YOU ASSHOLES JUST BUY A FUCKING BANNER AD ALREADY AND FUCK OFF
>>
>British paints
you guys can't be serious
>>
Who makes the absolute best matte black?
>>
>>98783927
That has objectively been established as a subjective taste, absolutely true black matte black now exists and it has not become the staple, so it's literally up to taste, actually try out some paints and figure out what YOU like.
>>
>>98783927
holbein acrylic gouache
>>
>>98783918
>t. spaniard
>>
>>98783927
Warhammer™ Tone Pro Blackstone Void™
>>
>>98783927
i use golden soflat and have no complaints. super matte and comes in a big jar
>>
>>98783893
Thank you sir, and a good morning to you.
>>
Has anybody used Tamiya Acrylics? I think I saw some posts about how their acrylics don't thin well with water but I'm not sure if the post was referring to enamels somehow.
Also are Tamiya's paint pots better than Citadel's pots from being "screwed on and off" alone?

>>98783552
Something I just prefer. No health issue yet beyond me needing to hit the gym.
>>98783552
>Is it something you need because of some health issue or such, or something you just prefer?
Technically using it until it is "broken" as in used up until it isn't what it used to be.
>what's your (planned) reason to need another one?
So far it is either after learning to maintain and manage and even restore airbrushes to the point where I can maybe move onto a better tool for more detailed airbrush work beyond the airbrush paintjob OSL meme or if the airbrush somehow expires early first.
But so far I can't see the airbrush exploding on me so I might be using it for long time if it is just for priming/varnishing and maybe airbrush painting the main primary color where the brush will handle the rest of the detailing.
>>98783665
>deep forest skin
Man that is a nice color from your picture.
Is that paint still in production? If not what's the closest color from Vallejo to AK/AP?
>>
>>98783153
>A fair assessment, I think.
It all hinges on whether the Citadel tone pro paints truly are an innovation that the rest of the other hobby paint companies will look at and mimic like when Contrast Paints came out.
Paints organized by color tones like Vallejo's BSL system or Wargames Foundry's triad system are not really an innovation.
I have a feeling that Games Workshop saw what ArmyPainter was doing with their "flexible triad" system and decided to ape it. Maybe their "shading medium" and "blending" medium are GW mimicking ArmyPainter's "stabilizer" medium that I don't know what it actually is. And another medium I'm unaware of. Maybe the shading medium is just GW's wash paint medium with no pigment.
I'm just guessing.
I still don't want to use GW paints because of those pots. I know there is transferring. It just is better to go for different paints that put their paints in better containers.
>>
>>98784048
They're solvent based so they don't really layer ontop of eachother as well. you can use them but its going to be harder, they are excellent in the airbrush tho if you dont care about brushability.
>>
>>98784063
>It all hinges on whether the Citadel tone pro paints truly are an innovation
They are not, it's pretty obvious after Vince's and other reviews. If anything, James just caught up with normal acrylic paints like AK, but still has the balls to ask for twice the price, less paint, AND shitty pots.
>>
>>98784064
>solvent based
Even when they say "water based?"
Thanks for letting me know either way.
>>98784074
The price, paint quantity and shitty pots is why I avoid Citadel. I went to AK because of their caps funnily enough. The way they're designed kind of "shields" the paint on the center from being scratched off. Which I think is neat.
I hope they're from a Chinese factory so I can get loads of those by the bulk.
>it's pretty obvious after Vince's and other reviews
What are some trustworthy hobby youtubers that aren't grifters? How does one tell if a new channel is or isn't grifting the aspect of miniature painting being more popular than ever?
>>
>>98784094
Simple test
>are they on youtube?
>if Yes = grifter
>if No = maybe not (do they get money? ie; patreon)
Hope this guide helps!
>>
>>98783660
Cool skin tone. I prefer orks with less drab/olive toned skin and more GREEN green
>>
>>98784048
Can't find deep forest skin easily anywhere, but the closest equivalent I can find is Greyish Blue / WWI French Uniform Base
>>
>>98784094
>Even when they say "water based?"
Japanese "water based" isn't the same as western "water based"
>>
>>98783927
according to shilltube culture hustle has the best black and white acrylic paints
>>
>>98785384
culture hustle paints are genuinely hard to work with and even more so for miniatures stuart.semple is also a massive faggot.
>>
>>98785411
what makes them hard to use?
>>
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ork of the day
>>
>>98785438
They just have a bad brush texture and consistency. you can see reviews of culture hustle stuff by a lot of art channels and the ones not payed by stuart to wash his balls point it out.
>>
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I have successfully determined that the only acceptable instrument to play in skeleton culture is either a doot or a xylophone
>>
>>98785793
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3CDPO1ktTFA
Drums, bagpipes and flute are also acceptable
>>
>>98785793
>>98785894
Based and dootpilled.
>>
Any advice for speeding up the painting process? Is it judt a repition thing? The more I do the faster l'll get naturally
>>
>>98786028
pretty much
experience brings speed
>>
>>98786028
Some methods are faster than others but don’t try to paint fast otherwise you’ll just make careless mistakes.
>>
>>98786028
Beyond specific techniques, like using fast drying medium to mix your oil washes, better question is, why speed it up? It's a hobby, it's supposed to be enjoyable.
>>
>>98783063
Chris frosin did a review and wasn't impressed
>>
>>98782869
Aye carumba amigo
Maybe post English next time
>>
>>98785793
What models did you use to make that? I love it.
>>
>>98784137
>everyone on youtube is a grifter
its over bros...
>>98785353
Fair enough.
>>98784791
I double checked >>98783665 and that grey doesn't look like that faded green like color. It is a nice color too. Is the bottle's plastic color not being extra clear messing with it? Or does it just dry to a different color than it looks when liquid in the bottle?
>>
>>98783530
Having used a fengda and even shitter chink brushes I can assure you gaayleri is far better, they have better everything not just marketing
Which gaayleri did you buy?
>>
>>98786261
The body is a warlord games soviet conscript.
The arms and horn comes from victrix islamic infantry.
The skull is a leftover bit from Arcon studios balor
>>
>>98786283
>buy
I sprayed with Mobius a couple of times because a friend of mine was hyping it up as being better than Evo. It was middling at best.
>>
>>98786306
Lol H&S was good 20 years ago when it was made by Germans
>>
>>98786343
What a shit bait.
>>
>>98786233
it's 2026, learn to use a translator grandpa
>>
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finished tomb crawler
>>
>>98786233
tl;dr
>AK
Mig Jimenez, a famous attentionwhore, had falling out with actual AK leadership, claiming half of the company was his, citing "oral agreement" about it. Ultimately, he decided to make his own AK with blackjack and hookers, which resulted in MIG Ammo company. Which is alright, but basically Temu AK.
>Vallejo
About two years ago, they had some drama going on about the worker conditions in their factories, which were reportedly quite bad, including numerous workplace accidents because of how understaffed, underpaid, and who knows what else they were. Workers organized strike (along with far left groups, should be noted) and supposedly achieved some improvement since.

AK is nothingburger, Vallejo is a bit worse, but still nothingburger.
>>
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Another Steel Rift mini
>>
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Nearly done with land speeder kitbash for my Raptors. Making the future fluffy pink dice out of plasticard took longer than expected, and so did bashing the Scouts to proper poses. Still needs more detailing, baggage, and general cleanup.
>>
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Working on the camo cloak, very rough early WIP on the actual squad. Idk i might have some form of autism, ive painted like 8 HQ characters for this army but I havent been bothered to do any normal squads yet until now
>>
>>98786300
Thanks!

>>98786425
>AK is nothingburger, Vallejo is a bit worse, but still nothingburger.
What company is pushing acrylic research and development further the most? Doesn't even have to be miniature paint producing company related.

Also I think I have Tamiya's quick type putty. I'm not sure if that will be a good substitute for greenstuff until a proper replacement comes around.
How is it compared to greenstuff?
>>
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Finished this thing
Still sucking at taking pics with this camera
>>
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Orktober Mini #5. Anuva clever git.
>>
>>98783927
How black do you want it?
>https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vantablack
>>
>>98787092
>Spanish commies
Walhy didn't Franco put them to sword?
>>
>>98772556
Sick model Anon.
>>
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slowly chipping away on this one.
>>
>>98788230
primer a bit chalky?
>>
Holy shit why has no one told me about Godhands before? This is actually game changing for my model building
>>
>>98786393
reality
>>
>>98788381
wait till you go to a proper hardware store and see real micro nippers
>>
>>98786840
>Aint mes in the distance
>>
>>98787092
Relax mate, for you tamiya will do, you're not scibor, boris w or a sculpting master
>>
>>98788403
what do you think about knipex ones?
>>
>>98788423
solid brand, though modern Germany is a shadow of its former self and they've outsourced certain tools to china
>>
>>98788381
Cheap nippers and a $3 exacto knife equivalent will do the same job for 1/25th the price and with a much lower chance of breaking and wasting your investment. Godhands are good, but they're insane overkill for miniatures.
>>
>>98788428
Something like these cost $10-15, will last as long as you live, are premium quality and require a 10 second sharping every so often, the only thing better will be knipex and godhand tier stuff >$100
>>
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Posted the other day about how impressed I have been with my new printer. They look even better primed
>>
>>98788443
Nice
What printer?
I bought one 6 months ago and have yet to even use it
>>
>>98788443
is that a lucky strike from the FF series?
>>
>>98788472
It's a bambu p2s. I have been very impressed with it seeing as it's fdm
>>98788474
I don't think so. I forgot all about that guy
>>
>>98788475
they look like the undead hydra from ocarina of time and the marlboro from FF. They look cool
>>
>>98788475
Damn that's really good for fdm
>>
>>98786411
Gorgeous highlights.
>>98786697
Beautiful highlights.
>>
>>98788403
Most of them are dual-blade and will create stress marks on plastic regardless of how well made they are. The only exception is this one which is single-blade >>98788433
>>
>>98777979
i was genuinely about to say
>Wow how'd you achieve such a convincing rust effect?
>>
>>98788524
>stress marks
And?
>>
>>98788548
The whole point of GodHands is to cut the plastic and not create a pinch ridge. Only a single-blade nipper will do that
>>
>>98787536
Cool scheme and base, nice done anon
>>
>>98788524
Stressmarks mean literally nothing in a hobby where you always paint your models. gunpla autists worry about stress marks and finish because most are snapfitting
>>
>>98788561
That is true, and also it's an entirely useless feature in the context of miniature modelmaking, where you can merrily use your knife and files to cut and sand the surface smooth without worrying about the finish or white marks.
>>
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>>98788524
>worrying about stressmarks.
When a model might look like this before painting.
>>
>>98788574
Or because their models comes already in target colour so they feel no need to paint them. And painting something in exactly same colours makes little sense.

I'm still a bit salty that my fully articulated Asuka have visible stress mark on her plugsuit tights but fixing that would require painting her all over, including her beautifully shiny suit.
>>
>>98788443
>i got it for terrain!
>im not stupid!
>>
Are there any examples of "Grimdark" Custodes models? Feels like it's really hard to make the solid gold armor and pristine equipment look properly "war-torn"
>>
>>98788574
That is true
>>
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>>98788251
a bit yeah. fortunately it's not visible by the naked eye, really.
>>
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>>98776876
>>98765851
First mini """"done""". I had hope for this right up until I whipped the varnish out. Think I'll keep it though, as shitty as it is, then just try to make the rest of the intercessors not look so terrible. But I learned a few things though. Like how I really wish I'd painted these at least partially before fully assembling the model because these nooks and crannies make me crave for the sweet release of death. And that I'm using too many layers of paint I think.
Gore in spoiler

Also while it doesn't really show up well in the pic, but before the primer my paint was drying really bumpy in places and really smooth in others. Is that a sign of me not thinning my paints enough or is that normal?
>>
>>98789251
Also yeah I know the grass looks like shit. It looked better in my head but by the time I realised how bad it was it was too late not to commit.
>>
>>98789251
what's going on here anon? are you painting with gloss paints?
>>
>>98789279
It was really flat and not at all shiny before the varnish, so the gloss is from that and I think I'm just gonna have to pick up a matte finish after work. I'll show what it looks with just the base coat when I get a chance.
>>
>>98789251
Paint seems thick and you didn't do any shading or highlights. The gloss varnish is easily fixed. Try a darker red for the blood, most blood is way darker than people think.
>>
>>98789251
based red wings Chad
>>
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>>98788849
Im printing some terrain with it right now
>>
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Just one layer, though it was before i got the hang of thinning the paints and came out thicker in spots than I wanted. I think I'll strip this guy though and switch to a darker shade of green while I have the chance though. And just leave the one guy as the retarded battlebrother or something.
>>98789302
>shading or highlights
I was originalyl going to try and use black to make shadows for the gun but i was worried any more layers and it would look like that one picture of the space marine that's become more paint than plastic. I'll try mixing in some black with the red then. I was trying to make it look like he just got down stabbing a guy but it just kinda looks like he fucked up drinking koolaid.
>>98789309
>Red wings
It was supposed to be raptors but I think I made the green too bright and just accidentally made a salamander.
>>
>>98789361
>got down
I think the glue and paint fumes are getting to me...
>>
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>>98789361
>It was supposed to be raptors
NTA, but Raptors color(s) are fairly tricky. It's not much of a pure green (like Salamanders), but olive drab, that is brownish green. If you go too cold, you'll get Salamanders, if you go too warm/bright, you get something like Sons of Medusa.

I personally do:
>any warm dark brown as a primer (I use VMS Mahogany)
>AK Forest Green
>AK Olive Drab Base
>AK Olive Drab Base + AK Green Brown
>AK Wash Dark Brown for Green Vehicles (pinwash, not overall wash)
Though that's an airbrush method. Picrel.

If I was to translate it into more of a classic eavy metal style, something like this might work:
>same primer
>AK Olive Drab Base
>some darker green/brown wash (mix Athonian Camoshade + something warmer darker?)
>edge highlights with some lighter mix of AK Olive Drab Base and AK Green Brown.
>thinner edge highlight with just green brown.
>>
>>98789361
>It was supposed to be raptors but I think I made the green too bright and
You have the opportunity to shade it heavily with brown and it should be fine. Shade paints are really thin so it shouldn't hurt the details too much.
>>
>>98789471
overcomplicating it, you even changed colours mid project.
>>98789361
Use a brown wash, then post again
>>
>>98789803
>overcomplicating it, you even changed colours mid project.
Oh yeah, hence me saying it's tricky to get a correct color. James says that the official Raptors color is Deathworld Forest, but that one is imo way too bright. It can work with filters, but alas.
I like my current solution because it's basically three paints color modulation and one pinwash. Can't get any simpler. If I was doing it the GW way, then it's just one color.

I do agree that anon should just use dark brown wash now, probably the best way to tackle what he already has.
>>
Raptors are sovlless as hell tßh
>>
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>>98790000
(checked)
>>
>>98790000
Only insofar as you should just go full Reasonable Marines
>>
>>98774770
That time of the month huh?
>>
>>98790026
>quads of truth
I wasn't expecting to agree with you, but I do because of arbitrary post digits being the same
>>
>>98788570
Thanks! First time doin a more involved base since I didn't want that sculpted smoke base it came with
>>
>>98787536
Really like the scheme and base.
If you are interested in taking cool pics of larger minis or vehicles, look into focus stacking. Open Camera can do it, you just have to make sure your phone is not moving.
>>
Why are people being so negative here about the new warhammer paints? I get that the paints aren't going to make you a better painter, but the quality of paints can definitely improve your painting experience, and if more people get into the hobby and have good paint experiences rather than the standard warhammer paints experience that seems like a good thing.
>>
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>>
>>98790681
I like it.
>>
>>98790654
go shitpost in /40kg/, faggot
>>
>>98790654
Because you can get the same or better quality paints, in greater volume, in non-retarded containers, and for 50%+ cheaper. That, and the abhorrent, straight up fake marketing campaign.
If GW had at least somewhat sensible pricing policy, weren't engaging in anti-consumer practices (pots), and haven't tried selling their normal ass acrylics as if it was some second coming of acrylic christ, the response would be a lot better, I think.
>new people
Maybe it would be better if you would focus your concernfagging to teaching these new people not to buy paints from GW instead.

Now go back.
>>
>>98790654
let's see you do better than the resident craftpaint sperg, then we can talk.
>>
>>98790742
Damn you're really desperate to bring some attention to yourself lately aren't you, craftsperg? Go back to shoveling mule shit, nobody cares about your autistic ass anymore
>>
I never understood the appeal of edge highlighting. That's not how light works.
>>
>>98790773
You should get that multiple personalities disorder looked at, the guy is a known personality here and not every mention of him is from him.
Get over it and shove your tone paints up your ass.
Being a GW employee at least explains your complete inability to move on from someone who is openly using a cheap non-GW material in their projects at least.
>>
More people would buy non GW paint if you could actually find it in stores
>>
>>98790819
it also explains how he cant podt models, gw employees don't paint unless they're paid too.
>>
>>98790654
Why would I care about more people? So James Workshop makes more money?
>>
>>98790819
I'm not the anon posting about the tone paints you braindead faggot. Nobody gives a fuck you're using craft paints, your painting is garbage and combined with the constant sperging nobody would ever use you as an example for anything. You're just namedropping yourself in a pathetic cry for attention. Fuck off or, preferably, kill yourself.
>>
>>98790871
I'm not the craftsperg, braindead faggot.
If you want to shill paints here, let's see you do better than the bottom of the general's barrel.
>>
>>98790681
You better be putting some yellow over it gaywad
>>
>>98790810
It is a paint by numbers method to differentiate light levels that can be explained to anyone. If your goal is to make buying twice the ammount of paint accessible to most people, while still letting them churn out finished projects to buy more of your product, it is a great method.
>>
>>98789251
you should try painting more of the details in different colors, like the eyes, the chicken insignia, the belt, the little buttons on the pipboy thing, etc. a flat paint job is fine no matter what other fags will say but a mono color one just looks lazy.
>>
>>98790810
it's just one of those memes that everyone started doing because everyone else was doing it and no one wants to question if it was actually a good idea because it would mean admitting you were wrong all this time.
>>
>>98790681
The pink works surprisingly well here but I'm not sure about the red on these saw thingies to be honest
>>98788932
That's a pretty cute mini, reminds me of Nendroids
>>98787718
>>98783883
I like the more yellowish skin, very eye-catching
>>98787536
Nice and clean, looks great. As the other anon said, you could look into focus stacking if you feel like it. All you need is a cheap tripod so that you can take pictures focused on different parts of your models.
>>98786934
I think the cloak looks pretty neat already! HQ minis usually make for more interesting projects so I don't think it's particularly weird to enjoy painting them more.
>>98786840
Very cool, really looking forward to seeing it painted.
>>
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>>98790681
What did you use to apply the pink, a sponge? I like the splatter-y look of it.
>>
>>98791006
>>98791081
>>98790810
samefag
>>
>>98790711
ty
>>98790970
no I'm done with him
I forced myself to finish him after doing the "weathering" on the plates but didn't like it
>>98791102
same. I think the red is too much I should have used some other color in general more mixed up for parts to get the "random junk thrown together" look
>>98791104
thats so cool
I just applied a mix of Ak Magenta + AK Fluro Magenta + AK Ruby + AK quick gen Medium. Then thin crosshatching of AK Pastel Pink and then another thinned coat of the mixed Magenta .
After that I thinned down Black and stippled it on it but I didn't like it very much and stopped caring about him
>>
>>98791102
I missed you.
>>
>>98791102
>Very cool, really looking forward to seeing it painted.
Thank you.
Also, bless you anon, you were missed.
>>
>>98790542
Thanks
Yeah I've got a canon rebel something off marketplace for cheap, younger brother's a photographer and helped me with the basics of not just using auto settings but still need to learn to use it better
>>
>>98788932
>>
>>98788932
Very... Paedophilic?
>>
>>98791339
you need to go back
>>
>>98791362
You're the one modelling young girls to display on a shelf.
>>
File: PXL_20261006_215838466.jpg (1.7 MB, 3072x4080)
1.7 MB JPG
Brazen bull wip
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>>98791554
Hory rayel rines!
>>
File: PXL_20261006_222424639.jpg (2.18 MB, 4080x3072)
2.18 MB JPG
>>98791633
Dont bother me at all, its so fun to be creative and make my own duders, i havent bought a gw mini since i got a printer, i will def get resin at some point
>>
>>98791672
Resin should have been first, you dont even seem to post terrain at all and fdm is the same price
>>
New thread:

>>98791741
>>98791741
>>98791741
>>
>>98790029
That is something you should never EVER do.



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