What’s on the workbench, /toy/?Sculpts, castings, 3D prints, dioramas, mods, kitbashes, and repaint are all welcome!Post WIPs, finished projects, ideas, techniques, ask for advice, and most of all, have fun!HELPFUL TIPS:-Invest in a rotary tool such as a dremel for sanding/sculpting, especially a flexible extension tip.-Pin vises for drilling holes can be found at hobby stores like Hobby Lobby and are great for making peg holes.-For soft, flexible parts get Sugru silicone putty and Oyumaru-Hardware epoxy putties such as Waterweld, KwikWood, and PlasticWeld are similar to milliput, greenstuff, and apoxie, can be cheaper some times, and can be found at local hardware stores such as Lowes, Ace, and Home Depot.-Bootleg figures make great custom-fodder, especially if the legit figures are pricey.-Body-chan/kun, Figma Archetype He/She, Romankey x Cowl, and Sozai-chan/kun, Notta Collection bodies are great base bodies for import-style human characters.-For 3D models to use for editing, the following sites are good to bookmark:>NEW TIP UPDATE: -To loosen tight or stuck articulations in figures use Silicone Grease/Silicone Oil, it serves as lubricant without harming the figure unlike WD-40 or other solvent based lubricants, as it is meant for Treadmills and other such things>cgtrader.com (free and purchasable models)>cults3d.com (free and purchasable models)>models-resource.com (FREE 3D game models)>turbosquid.com (free and purchasable models)>grabcad.com (free and purchasable models)>renderhub.com (free and purchasable models)
>>11784861Oh hey, my Arcee made it into OP! Nice. Need to hurry up and paint her...As mentioned here >>11784705 I'm trying to de-Primaris a McFarlane Marine. Coming along nicely, though I'm gonna have to do quite a bit of sanding and sculpting. Also still waiting on the backpack to print.Also have the AP Blood Angel coming in soon, will probably do something similar with him.
Did a test-print of the crotch of the commission I’m working on, trying to see how much of the chainmail sculpt actually is visible with SLS PA11, and honestly it worked out better than I expected (wasn’t actually expecting this much detail in the first place). I think it’ll work best to paint the chainmail thong area silver and then doing a flesh-color wash over the centers of the rings, similar to that anon who did that to the Figma Ninja Catwoman’s fishnet parts. I’ll run this by my client and see if he approves or if bigger rings are needed.
Done the first wheels, made few takes on tank tracks, soon the vehicle may stand on it's own.Also found new concept art for it, haven't seen it before, it's really low res but it shows how the tank tracks should look like.
>>11786386This is awesome, man. Do the tracks work? Also I forget what scale is it?
>>11786477Thanks, it's in 1/12 scale. I made it to fit Tunshi's figs. Tracks should work, all wheels spin and tracks themselves are elastic. I'll see if everything works once I print all the missing parts.
>>11786490Nice! Is the hull FDM? I have a Bambu A1 and I really like it but I'm struggling to get decent results. I always find I get nastiness near where the plate or supports touch parts.
>>11786493It's all pure FDM, matte PLA and PETG mechanisms inside. Print orientation is what matters the most, i find it better to just make multiple parts instead of a single one that requires supports.>I always find I get nastiness near where the plate or supports touch parts.If you have a smooth build plate the parts should be smooth... maybe you need to use isopropyl alcohol to clean it. Drying fillaments solve most of the issues people can have.
>>11786503It's more like I find bits the layers tend to slightly delaminate and "droop" a bit near the bottom of the print, even with fresh PLA. Probably user error though. Thanks regardless and good luck with the tank!
>>11786515Ahh, it sounds like warping. It happends in the corners mostly? Some people use glue to strengthen the adhesion. You can use extra brim settings to hold it down too.
>PREVIOUS:>>11757267>>11784861Thanks for baking
>>11784861I am going to be someplace near a mall by a very suburban area with a large Southeast Asian dispora settled in socal that I normally wouldn't visit. It's full of hobby shops and gunpla stores. I plan to find a decent but inexpensive marker, for lining on ABS plastic, etc. perhaps several if they are inexpensive enough and they have different useful sizes like Sharpies, but what else should I look for that is not going to be at a Michael's, Hobby Lobby/Hobby Town, Lowe's or HD? Or will be noticeably more expensive at those stores.
>>11786386>>11786490Still looks pretty impressive, hope you have been taking video of your process to eventually post, as was suggested - I think last winter?
>>11789861is there a REASON you chose not to link it in the previous thread?
>>11784861Whoa! my unfinished saber tiger in the OP? That's an honor.I'm very close to getting the new backpack fitted. Had to go through my parts bin and get some random plastic out, do some sawing, snipping, filing.>>11786490hot damn, working treads.
>>11789881>>11786900...nigga... you are indeed blind
>>11789045> hope you have been taking video of your process to eventually post, as was suggestedI haven't yet, I may do it when I do the final version. Now I'm just learning Blender and 3D printing. I doubt people would want to watch my crude Blender modelling lol.>>11789883>hot damn, working treads.Just finished all the top wheels, next week I'm gonna do the rest. In 2 weeks i may get most of the tracks done.
>>11789969ctrl-F did not find it, so...
i just finished this Scarlet Spider
>>11790694There's something... different about Ben...Oh right, it's the boots and the belt.
>>11790718Not Ben, Felicity Hardy
Hmmmm I've never done this before, should I also buy clear coat or something after coloring someones legs with this Sorry I'm retarded
>>11790726>>11790694Jealous
>>11790735damn
>>11790726whooshalso: modern comics are fucking retarded>>11790733Can't speak for experience, but I've never known this stuff to scratch. it's shaky-ball paint so it's pretty durable.Easiest way to find out, just put it on some plastic, then in a day, try to scratch it with your nail. if it comes off, you need a clear coat (and even that probably won't work if you REALLY dig your nail in, so be gentle)
>accidentally used a piece of scrap plastic that superglue apparently doesn't stick towell that's a hurdle, but at least my sciencebrain is like 'neat.'
>>11790746Actually I let it dry for 24 hours, and then tried moving the leg, and some gold still came off on my thumbGoogles shitty AI says it can take 4 days to fully dry but I don't trust it (it says the charges my company puts on a bill don't exist if you opt out when in fact they don't get removed you just can't see them anymore and at a higher rate, for instance) so I thought I would ask from real people
>>11790771why would you use google's shitty AIsadly, you have to use reddit. that's the only website left that'll show up on a google search. but hopefully someone else here knows for sure.
>>11790772Actually I did look at reddit and they said three to four days too, it's possible that's what Googles AI scraped the answer from.I just trust you guys more
>>11790694>>11790726Are those what they call child-bearing hips?
>>11790694What body did you use? My first thought was aa bootleg revo harley but those legs are too smooth for that to be the case
>>11791012yes>>11791020i used Whale Works Body, that one thicc as hell Chun Li 3rd Party mold
>>11790529>first post sent at 05/14/26(Thu)16:57:01>your replied sent at 05/18/26(Mon)00:12:27It sounds like a issue of skill to me, either that or you're a retarded liar... probably both!
>>11790733I don't think I would want that for an entire figure but good to know that's an option to add to a part of a figure - can you report back on your luck and perhaps post the finished project.And are those the - what - three standard widths available? Three only options available?Thanks!
>>11791068I mean, I'm 6900 and I only posted that because I started OPing one of the new GENs when no one else does it, and realize that's the the kinda shit people here want to see. I don't really want to dig through the archive if I can just go back two threads and find something recent I need because I have that recollection? Other than that, who cares?
>>11791068see how there's only three instances of '861' in the entire thread? your angry link, and, coincidentally, my post (and the reply to it)
>>11791082Gold isn't actually shiny reflective, silver is literally painting a mirror on a figure. Silver I know for a fact takes longer than three days to dry because I used it on a vending machine model on Friday, came back on Monday, and it still smudged when I touched it (which is my fault), but I'm not sure about gold. There's so many missing spots on that leg I couldn't see with the naked eye but now are super glaring looking at it in this picture holy fuck
>>11791082>And are those the - what - three standard widths available? Three only options available?YesIt's the $8 cheapo set on Amazon Which means I probably should have expected gold to not work as pictured but silver did so
>>11791768with chrome markers you often need to lay it on perfectly smoothly to get the proper mirroring. What impresses me here is this looks like gold plastic, it even looks slightly translucent.
>>11791780With my limited use of these, it feels like the first time you use the silver one, it's just perfect, but if you let it dry somewhat, smudge it, and then try and go over it again, it just looks awful, which kinda confirms what you said. Gold is more forgiving, I've gone over the leg several times whenever I notice I missed a spot and it's really not obvious. Even less so in real life then in these pictures where I notice I need to do the edges of the mask even though I dont even notice that in real life
>>11790694Any advice to prevent paint chipping? I've wanted to make customs involving painting the entire body, but possible paint chipping always turned me off from it.
>>11791917the most practical one is sanding really really good the articulations or the parts where the paint could rubin my case i dyed the figure so i avoid that kind of problems
>>11791997nice. I've heard a lot of mixed things about dyeing, but yours looks fantastic.>>11791917Best I've ever achieved is using INK for the rubbable joint parts, and then just being okay with it not quite matching the paint. Sanding requires you to be able to somehow disassemble the figure, which doesn't seem all that possible for most figures, to me. Maybe a transformer, riddled with screws and pins and mushroom pegs, but other than that?
>>11791917I have this same issue. I was very disappointed with the "black" romankey cowl body for being only modestly tan, but I don't want to risk fucking the paint job up by darkening her to a more desired shade.
>>11791997Damn that's hot
>>11792030Would anyone here be able to vouch for paints that are labeled ink? Vallejo has 'inks' and I wonder if those would properly stain plastic without building up the layers.. with the trade-off surely being that it's also inherently translucent. like dyeing without having to boil the figure.
>>11791917>>11792030Have none of you tried to Dye the entire piece the shade you want? it's quite popular to use Rit Dyemore on figures lately, no paint chipping, just let your figures soak in a pot with the dye and eventually it's ready, no chipping since it's soaked into the plastichttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v6SGLFauwyY
>>11791780Yep looks decent to good>>11791775Thanks!>>11791789Reality once again for the win
>>11791768>>11791789Has anyone attempted to use an Airbrush filled with the ink of these markers? i imagine it would give better results, no?
>>11792085Dyeing works on only certain plastics, though I forget which ones in particular don’t take to dye well. Also, unless you’re using a white or very lightly colored plastic like beige, the dye only darkens the plastic that shade. Some colors upon colors need only a little dye or else the get too dark. 3D printed Nylon and PLA tend to absorb dye well in my experience.
>>11792305Aye, i am well aware of this, figured it would work over the entire body if what they sought was something simple like turning everything black, however if you want a different color or perhaps only certain parts to be painted, there is always the way they do in factories, which is risky, since it involves using fire, but it makes sure no paint comes off no matter what, people who do model kits try it and it works quite well, here's how i learned of this method, it is called "Plastic Annealing" i suggest practicing over a bootleg or not expensive figure and to be responsible when using fire or a blowtorchhttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6Rc4LKMHC74
>>11791768>>11791789Should have bought the Gundam Maker instead of the cheap one
>>11792176have some gold and silver metallic acrylic paint I ended up getting on clearance cheaply (Michael's?) maybe 3 years ago that's just sitting somewhere, unopened, I don't even remember what I paid and it would definitely need a clear coat or something to permanently affix it if I wanted to as a genuine use/solution I need to find something I don't care about to test it out on - I don't think have anything like >>11791789 to actually work with that needs or would be improved with metallic acrylic paint, I think?But also need to actually locate where that paint ended up and maybe find (or buy) some brushes. I think all I have on hand are watercolor brushes. I don't own an Air Brush, sadly.
>>11792513is that even model paint or is it for like, canvases? Because the latter really has trouble working on figures and models.
>>11792513Funny enough the silver on that Thor is fine, its the gold legs that look fucking awful without paint
I have about 18 hours left to tack something onto my last amazon order for free shipping, but the hobby saws there look like shit, or have some worrying reviews about blades being thin and flimsy. is that just how saws are? should I just get better with scoring plastic and breaking it instead of sawing? The only high quality one appears to be tamiya, but that round-ass x-acto-knife-ass handle looks super uncomfortable, no edge alignment.
progress update.. this back piece is finally sitting stably, supported in no fewer than FOUR points.Doesn't look pretty, but I'll do some reshaping, maybe glue on a few parts, and once it's all painted silver, it should look like it's supposed to be that way.
>>11791917There was a guy named One’s Customs who used to put superglue over painted areas near the joint so it wouldn’t rub off, but you have to be careful that it doesn’t fuse it together. Also a risk that the superglue turns that white frosted color and makes it look ugly
Small update, suspension can be posed. Now I need to print the tracks. Wonder how it's going to work with those on. Tracks ain't that elastic in other axes.
>>11793216yeah that is not.. something i'd recommend. there are surely more durable clear coatings than that. and anyway that's adding more thickness to what's already added thickness.>>11793398you are going so far beyond the necessary here. I salute you.
>>11792756Read them carefully and try to figure out if they were being used for it's intended use, many of those Apes use them for WOOD, and not just the sticks used for dioramas and the like BUT FULL LENGTH PLANKS
>>11793915in fairness this one DOES come with a wood saw too.yeah I just decided on the one with the nicest grip. it might be harder to get it into tight areas with that thicker grip, but having attempted to do complex cutting with a razor saw, I can say for certain I need SOMETHING better.
>>11792818aaaand finished. One last coat of black paint AGAIN, and a more thorough clearcoating, and it feels way more durable this time, and looks better. Previously, I went too light with the spray. Was worried about gunking anything up.Managed to get all the weapons on AND attach the gatling's coilspring to one of the hip posts with a bit of windshield wiper fluid hose, so it spins! ... really intermittently, but that's how it worked on Dark Horn too, so
Whats the best skin tone paint marker? I wanna buy and attempt one of those Savage Land Rouge heads but I really like working with Gundam markers
while we're on the subject,DO any model/miniature-quality glow in the dark paints exist? It seems to me the answer is no, and the internet seems to confirm that.
Resin printed out a gamer chair for my figures!
>>11795055was super simple thanks to the STL coming in multiple parts.
>>11795057It was a simple painting process, just a base coat of black spray paint, then masked it up with tape to put on the blue.I need a airbrush, cause i cant be fucking with spray cans for tiny projects like this.
>>11795058red and blue versions.
>>11795055>Dear Mike Bison>How do you play viderogames with boxing gloves on?>>11795059whoa, shiny. I guess if you look too closely it becomes really obvious the wheels are missing, but... that'd be annoying to fix.
>>11786493>I have a Bambu A1Don't those have pretty bad thermal runaway problems?
Is there any good reason NOT to just get a $3-5 cheapest possible portable UV light thing from some site or store if I am mainly getting it for those MGA 'make it mini-verse' crap things that I am going to be doing just this summer for some craft crap for kids this summer? The MGA things are being donated but things like clean up supplies and other supplies we have to buy ourselves. I don't have kids of my own and my nieces and nephews are all out of state so it's not like something I imagine I will ever re-use.
>>11794801When I see the results for 'acrylic paint' markers that populate on Amazon (or elsewhere, like Walmart) for "Skin Tone" or "flesh tone" - it feels like deceptive people on ebay who put "marvel legends" or "classifieds" and other key words to get people to look at their listings. I don't think this will look bad on say illustration paper or similar, but you are presumably wanting to apply it to plastic and for permanent results. You probably need to go to someplace like Hobby Lobby and get some suggestions, before just shopping on-line?
>>11795953Not brittle or fragile, so I guess you're just a weird piece of shit
>>11795790The problem with the cheapest UV lights is you're going to run into problems with them not curing fast enough or curing completely. Plus they'll need eye protection from the UV light (I wouldnt even let kids cure stuff themselves desu, I'd have adults man the lights so they cant blind themselves), gloves, masks, toothpicks to poke at the resin with to see if its cured lots of paper towels. You will need to cure any and all resin that spills after it is wiped up with a paper towel, and cure the gloves and disposable tablecoth and anything that touched any resin or ever held resin inside of it, before it is all thrown away. When it's wet, it's hazardous waste and needs to be brought to the hazardous waste disposal center in your area. So better to cure it.Might wanna watch through this, they go through all the good/bad about these kits instructions and how they would make it safe for kids. The warning pamphlets inside those things are pretty scary, the summer camp might need parents to sign off on resin toys somehow too, since the resin, fumes during wet resin handling and curing, and uv lights involved are either carcinogens or can do permanent damage if mishandled.https://youtu.be/5P5v6IoS1W4That said those kits are really fun to do, just be safe.
>>11795953neca plastic isn't fragile, it's flexible. sometimes it's hard to bend the joints because the parts connected to said joints require less work to bend. gotta heat it up with a hairdryer.
>>11796120I've had a couple broken neca gargoyles joints but nothing on TMNT movie figs yet. that's all the neca I have.You are right that their joints aren't exactly solid hard nylon, but then they kinda can't be, can they
>>11796120No it's not brittle. You are a fucking blight on the Earth for being such a lame ass spamming liar. It is not a wide problem and has not been for years. Shut the fuck up.
>>11795953I haven't had an issue but I only tried it with one (and a recent one - The Boys female character). I picked up a Nancy but other than stripping all the accessories and breaking them apart and taking the head off, I haven't really actually done even a kit-bash with it. I though the Black Noir would make a good Ninja or a potentially good custom Midnighter but decided it was going to be too much work and not worth it even for a $19.99 figure from Ross.
>>11796327You're responding to a troll you fucking idiot. He doesn't care. He's spamming the board.
>>11796380all the more reason to treat it like a normal post, so he gets bored that nobody got riled up.
>>11796075>That said those kits are really fun to do, just be safe.Well, I hope so. Bullseye Deals (the Target storefront on EBAY) had the MGA Harry Potter potion box on deep discount and I grabbed one for $16. That's even better than clearance at actual Targets or even the clearance outlets like Burlington or Ross. And I sat through two videos of people making the set. In fact, one of the reasons I bought it as that I thought the set itself (since I don't plan to use it for actual Potter stuff) would make an interesting start to a diorama. What I actually wanted was the potion and mad science type stuff - even if I don't mix up the resin and make the liquid potions - because I plan to make a Cadamus diorama but with deranged (and normal) Lex Luthors in lab coats. I'm also working on a custom Peter Parker Spidey in a lab coat with a few other characters, besides Mr. Fantastic so whatever lab I come up with should do double duty. But thanks for the videos. I'm not handling the consent, the program resident service coordinators do that, but yeah, they get consent and write-offs from parents, because they property management company would be liable.I also expect it to be older kids because what I ended up getting donated were LOTR kits so they are all swords and fantasy stuff. I have some action figures and probably will cobble together some LEGO stuff for them to do while so they don't get bored while stuff is waiting to happen. In fact, if crap has to sit for three hours, those kids will just need to finish up another day or something. I will need to sit down and think all this through.
hey diorama guys..remember those stacks of white cubes and stuff that action figures always used to knock over? I have a mighty need to recreate that. what were they even using? I can't imagine it was bespoke, had to be some off the shelf thing. I'm also having trouble finding examples, because no matter what I search, it just finds toy blocks, legos, kool-aid man, whatever. google is fucking destroyed.
>>11797353probrably just Styrene sheets glued into a cube is how they made them in the 90'sThese days you can just 3d print them.
>>11797361Having struggled lately to use hobby saws to cut styrene for shit, I find it hard to imagine someone was carefully cutting out sheets and gluing them together to make these cubes for a toy commercial... and there was more, like i swear they had styrofoam bricks..
>>11797368they definitely had styrofoam bricks, but they would look like that, styrofoam, to get that clean look, it had to have either been styrene, or possibly resin in like a ice cube tray?We have some examples at https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N_JiMtdDc2A1:06Thats definitely styrofoam at 7:5813:38 those have to be ice cube tray resin
>>11797353Do you recall an example of them? i think i know what you mean but i could be wrong, are you referring to the blocks used in commercials back in the 90's/2k's?
>>11797368>>11797373AH! exactly my thoughts! yeah, Styrene and other such foams like Insulation sheets aren't cut with saws, sometimes they are cut with razors but more often they use a hot wire>Stepped away to get lunch and forgot to post my previous post, only to see someone else mention my theory
>>11797373oh brilliant! that's exactly what I was thinking of..and I think you're right! I'm seeing some that have to be manufactured products, some that were clearly just sliced up bricks, and.. yeah, I think those fake ice cubes have to be resin. Real good eye.>>11797380Hot wiiiiire, that makes sense. Hmm I wonder if they sell a safe and cheap cutter like that for hobby use. I'm good at drawing the design I want to cu tout onto the styrene, but lousy at cutting it out from there. Need a dang jigsaw..
>>11797383I know for a fact they do, you can probably find a deal on amazon or elsewhere really, that's how friends of mine got theirs, they even use it to cut the foam/sponge things that they use to ship built kits
>>11797385that's awesome.you've already helped so much, it feels wrong to ask to be spoonfed a recommendation. if I just search 'hot wire cutter' will I get somethin decent?also making sure I'm not a retard, is that only for soft stuff, or is that also suitable for hard styrene sheets
>>11797388There's no shame in learning anon, the hot wire should be able to cut through most things, but that also means FLESH so be careful with it, no styrene should be an issue, BUT make sure you get good ventilation AND a respirator if posible, something like a cheap gas mask from a hardware store should suffice, the ones with the filters often seen in resident evil games or certain raves, remember it is HOT so it can indeed cut and melt most things, Just be careful when using it, don't breathe the fumes and if you're not sure what you're doing, watch a tutorial, you're in luck because Hot wires are quite literally Jig-saws without the saw part in a way, it won't cut through wood, but plastics are relatively soft when met with hot metal, here's a video from one of the guys from Mythbusters! just try to be well informed when learning to use a new tool so you don't go in blind!https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5NbK_H0QmOI
>>11797390ohh yeah, burning plastic. well I am past due to get a respirator for using with lacquer-based paint anyway.I'll check that out, thanks. Don't want anything melting, after all.
>>11797393That would indeed be suboptimal, yes... please keep us posted, i'd love to see what you'll make with it, Foam is quite popular for a reason in diorama making after all!... i also recommend watching the full video of Adam savage here, he actually explains really well how to use it, and if you need more stuff with foam and dioramas, here's a guy that makes some kino stuff!https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CmrF3qP-Ak0&list=PLjnjo-v8l661KgFu-fcxfFd1qbTotDrHo
>>11797397I did watch that video! In fact I may have seen that before.Well I was almost exclusively planning to use it with styrene sheets, but the products I'm finding, sounds like they're not good for that. Probably because I have to be the cheapskate and insist on a pen-format one rather than the whole board setup thing, THAT could probably handle harder plastic. Though thinking about foam DOES have me tempted to make fun dioramas and rocks...Maybe what I really need is a 'plastic scriber'? a regular boxcutter did not do the trick...
talking about xps foam>I did put primer on it (white glue mixed with acrylic paint)>let it dry>painted it (acrylic paint)>let it dry>dry brushed it (acrylic paint)>let it dry>sprayed a top coat on it>let it drynow the problem is that If I keep my toys standing on it for a few days the paint "glues" itself to the toys. And I don't understand why. Even if I screwed up the top coat this was months ago so it should all be as dry as possible and the toys aren't wet or something either.
>>11797593What kind of top coat and glue did you use?
>>11797597this one and normal white glue
>>11797609That has solvents in it melting your foam.
>>11797610no it doesn't, it says on the small text it's ok to use with styrofoam. I even asked the clerk about it.
>>11797593I suggest getting a Clear coat that will either make it gloss or matte, that way it won't stick to anything and it will also look nicer, i can vouch for mr hobby/Mr Super Clear, it is a great investment over all honestly!
>>11797593Can you post a picture? Ideally, if you have a picture of some of the figures with "paint" that is "gue[d] itself to the toys?"
>>11797642yeah, this is what I use, and it is a LITTLE sticky, but not terribly immobilizing.varnish definitely seems like it'd remain sticky enough to glue itself to anything painted at least.
>>11797814Ah, i see the problem, i'm afraid you are using it too close to what you are spraying, making it pool and become more dense, i believe you are also not shaking it thoroughly, if possible for up to 2 minutes, or just remove the spray cap and throw it at the washing machine and taping the lid to it so no accidents happen, much like a makeshift paint shaker, as that also can cause it to come out that way, try keeping it in the sun so the spray can cure or if you have a UV light it can also work, try to spray it from slightly afar and do several short bursts of spray rather than one big continuous one as that can cause the spray to pool and not stick too well
>>11797869Sorry, I'm a different guy, i was backing you upThe guy you're talking to used varnish, not this.
>>11797593Sometimes paint refuses to cure, i've seen a ton work arounds, some people even say mist down the paint with water to help "re-cure" it and such. Honestly a healthy blast of clear coat is always my go to, let it dry, then clear coat it again.Since my figures are going to be sitting on shit until i rotate my displays, a few coats of clear coat always fixed it up.the same clear coat i used on my chairs btw >>11795059https://www.amazon.com/Rust-Oleum-249087-Painters-Purpose-12-Ounce/dp/B002BWORZEYou keep saying Acrylic paint? im going to assume the cheapo stuff like the apple barrel brand or whatever you get at walmart, i use that stuff for my diorama's too, and the only time its ever stuck on a figures foot was during a heat wave.
>>11797967oh fuck, apple barrel flakes off if you look at it funnyIt's sad, I didn't realize how different model paints were, despite using both those and the more 'do a painting' paints for decades. For so long I was customizing figures using the latter, and having to thin it down then apply a dozen coats..
What’s the best way to cut/remove pick related? I tried hairdryer, hot water, and WD40 but no luck. Total novice here. Thanks!
Printed out a fat Pikachu
>>11798171kinda has a baron harkonnen vibe to it
>>11798171Pika-chub
>>11798173Yeah he looks like he should be laying in a vat of black goo
>>11798173“Ash, mah boki…”
>>11798171>My Pokemon Centre...>My Pallet Town...>My Kanto.
>>11790733>>11791768>>11791789Do not out clear coat on that it'll ruin the reflection
>>11797609>>11797642How are those different? According to the store sites they should do the same and both are without solvents.>>11797708here
>>11792538>>11792538Sorry, yeah it is meant for canvas most likely. I never intended to use it for customs. I wanted two decent figures that some mom dumped in a lot of like rock em sock em Superman and I thought I would paint those but ended up eventually dumping them at a local thrift. I plan to mostly use this paint on say some dioramas and things I don't care about. And to learn.
>>11798068It looks like you got the other side to come out. If this isn't yours and you got it second hand, I am wondering if the brilliant person you got this from super glued that piece in? Because my suggestions would have been either or both the hot water dip trick or the hair dryer tip.
>>11799523Yup, you are right. Got this 2nd hand. I think you might be also be right about it being super glued. Looks like I will have to cut it and sand it to make it look as pretty as possible. I will have to cover the other gap with some plaplates or something.
>>11799225Why would clear coat ruin the reflection
>>11800107I think as long as it's glossy, it wouldn't? but can't say for sure.
Got a question: if anyone has a SH Figuarts Shy, can her neck peg be put into a figma body's neck parts? Need to know for a custom.
>>11800194I think just dont use a matte spray, but a semi gloss right?
>>11791789Im this anon and the paint still isnt dryWhich seems strange cause if this isnt the type of plastic that paint doesnt stick to, I shouldn't still be able to wipe it off after eight days right? I also took a hairdryer to it about four days before I did a touch test yesterday I might just be retarded
>>11800993and you dont live in, like, a jungle, right?this actually reminds me of when I used to sculpt clay figurines and paint them with simple acrylic paints, and at one point I accidentally got this fucking wood stain instead of brown paintand it worked, and looked good, but it neeever dried. it was always slick and sticky.
>>11801039Nothing like a jungle noEven if I did you'd think the hairdryer would have done something
>>11801059hot moist air is still moist. you'd need a dehumidifier.
>>11801084It might be that.The gold paint takes two days to dry though. But all paint is different I guess even if it's the same maker I also painted Nightcrawlers sword with the same silver paint three days ago though and it's completely dry I'll give it another week.
I want to make copies of my figure to fuck with them and try making custom parts with.I know people use silicone molds then pour resin in to make cast copies but how 1 to 1 are these copies in detail if you don't have shit like a pressure chamber?
>>11801314the pressure chamber is to drive air bubbles out of the resin. The silicone mold itself is pretty much the best copy you can hope for without superspecialized equipmentWhat I wanna know is how people fully disassemble figures. and also if anyone has figured out a way to make a mold out of a material that then... expands, so you get a scaled-up one.
>>11801401I feel like if you want a scaled up one you'd need to do something like:>disassemble the figure>use photogrammetry to get a 3d scan of the figures parts>fix up blemishes in blender>use a resin 3d printer to print the parts in a bigger sizeThen you could just use a silicone mold to recast the new parts if you don't like them in the 3d printed resin.
>>11801413i'm simultaneously like 'blech' and 'i fucking want to do this before I die'of all the shit that never worked out in my life, if I can just either make my own toys from scratch, or ride in a self-driving car at high speeds across the country to visit friends inside of an hour even if they're across the country.. then I can die happy.
>>11791997added more belts and a different hoodie
>>11800771NTA but I would say so. I also am not sure why "clear coat" would "ruin the reflection" but I'm late to the party here.>>11800520I just participated in an entire thread about this elsewhere, if the hole on her head is too big for the peg, that's an easy solution - blutak, poster putty/poster adhesive, the hot glue and Vaseline trick, using washers, or other bits of plastic, etc. It really depends on how permanent you want to make the head. Personally, I'd always want to make the heads swappable while I'm the owner and wouldn't make it permanent unless it was a custom I was selling. >>11801087If other stuff is drying and not giving you problem, it might be that particular paint - I'm meaning the gold here >>11791768 ???
>>11803267>washerswhy didn't I think of that?>vaselinecan you coat something in vaseline and then fill it with milliput kinda stuff, and will it harden into a basically flush ball in the socket, but still separate? then like.. roll it around til youve wiped all the.. .. no that wouldn't work, would it.
>>11803267>If other stuff is drying and not giving you problem, it might be that particular paintI think it might be the plastic on Thors head because when I used it on Nightcrawlers sword it became dry within three days. Also it doesn't stick to this either. I ordered some top coat so maybe that will fix it
Im still waiting for that Top Coat to come in before I even try touching Thor again, but what do you think would be better for Citizen Vs face, the same silver as his sword, or the reflective silver like Thor? In the comics it not often drawn to be reflective but that might just look better
>>11807233Personally, the shine on Thor's helm looks good. With the regular sheen on the paint of the action figure itself, that sword and that other piece look a bit washed out. Some of this may be lighting but that's my off-the-cuff take.
>>11801843Are you buying the hoodies? I just picked up a lab coat for cheap, only because I got the guy to agree to combine ship and he was selling a collection of random shit he was never going to get what he wanted or hoped for. Only one other person bid on that lab coat and I am sure they gave up because winning it PLUS paying for postage would make it stupid expensive. I just don't know about a bunch of soft goods and it depends on what. The Ben I have already is the one with the plastic hoodie and I am not a big enough fan to do what you did. I'd rather invest my energy and money into something like shit for a villains lair or something along those lines. But you can use cloth goods for that. Like an actual sofa. Or a mattress, curtains, etc.
>>11807606in fairness, the hoodie often looked like fucking metal in the comics, depending on the artist. For years I thought he had, like, a White Ranger breastplate on. What would you call that, an aegis? to me an aegis is more like a connected set of pauldrons with a little chest and back armor, but maybe..
>>11807597Wow you know its kinda hard to tell but this looks a LOT better, jeezHopefully this sticks unlike it does to Thors helmet
>>11808045chromey as fuck. Worthy of Pepsiman
Are there easy ways to pimp a "boring" brick wall backdrop? I thought about glueing some popsicle sticks (cutting the ends off first) on it for a boarded up window look and maybe use a straw as a drain pipe. Any other ideas?
>>11808163Just now thinking I should have tried to remove the silver mask since its a separate piece Don't know how easy that would be though but it would make coloring the edges easier
>>11808203I find it's always kinda six of one half a dozen of the othersometimes it benefits you to be able to paint the piece and ONLY the piece, because there's nothing else, you detached it. other times, what it attaches to makes the perfect grip while you're painting it, and you know exactly what's going to show when it's reassembledbut mostly I'm just a coward about disassembling anything
>>11808214It actually popped off really easy so I'm gonna redo it
>>11808354Proof No plastic rip or anything
>>11808358interesting. before, it had kind of a subtle 'frost' grain to it, now it looks more like said grain is being blown back from speed.I'm sure in hand it's not even visible though
>>11808358>>11808405I like the grain, personally. If it was a modern figure, and not Thor, I'd say he would have a sleek fiberglass look, like an effing car/Iron Man.But Thor's Helm is potentially millennia old.And the shine seems to work now, but I'd have to look at side by side pictures, really.>>11808173Cardboard, foamcore, and printed out sheets would be the 'easiest' and 'cheapests' - and I don't mean AI generated images. Essentially, that's part of what you buy when you get playsets from a few companies. Except mass produced. And then I agree, popsicle sticks aged and maybe sanded down on some sides, to look like 2x4s? Maybe stain (not paint stain but grease and other 'soiling' type crap) them and leave them outside to weather? And anything that works. You can take the plastic top off something and make it look like a cover, paint it and anything else you can think of that would fit on a wall, like bars or a broken AC. See PICREL but not such a basic bitch outcome.
>>11808431You're right, but Kirby always drew it like it kinda had a reflective metallic finish despite that. I'm aware that's not a Thor drawn by Kirby don't worry>>11808405Yeah it's not visible at all, if you don't full view it and look at the thumbnail that's more or less how it looks in hand
