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I am going to convert this
USS Kearsarge by Revell
into
SMS Nautilus of the Austro Hungarian Navy
and slab some fine Aeronaut and Krick eletronics and drives into it
for it to become the horror of the ducks on my pond.

aye

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Man, I am swindled for the second time with these AK markers, the brown is borderline pink
I have 11 markers of which 2 are shit which is a really bad ratio of quality
>>11821903
Vgh... Habsbvger GroBflotte...

how do you nerds rate sprue goo? worth the time, or garbage boomer lore?

>>11821968
I haven't tried it but actually also kind of curious to know

>>11821920
What paint markers do you recommend
I could use some skin tones personally but you could talk about any

>>11821968
>>11822072
Boomer lore. It can work, but it is temperamental and ruins surface detail very easily and it does not sand well at all.

Have any of you ever sold models you built? Did you have any issues with the receiver claiming it was damaged in shipping? or do you only sell locally?

>>11822080
NTA but for models the AK ones are pretty much peak. For other craft stuff POSCA is good, but they lay the paint way too thick for models. In any case drawing full camo like that is to me not the use case for markers anyways. Just dotting little details like lights, dials or edges etc.

>>11822355
Only in two ways

1) Friend bought a kit for me they wanted built

2) Bought directly from the desk at a model show and they handled transport themselves.

Honestly working out a good shipment packaging is the prime reason not to bother with sales that don't happen in person

>>11822683
Thank you, I'm retarded and using gundam markers

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I'm stuck in the rain so I'll post some local contest goods

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Omg it miku

>>11823268
Don't let me discourage you, I'm in yurope so I don't really get much of that chink shit here and can't really comment on it. Unless it's POSCA and it is in Europe. Fuck sorry if I caused more confusion, I have really just never had issues with AK shit and if I have had then their support throws a coupon or two my way.

>>11823328
Pretty good

>>11823330
Good other than that fucking obvious sponge tree and shit ass composition.

>>11823333
Good on everything except the composition, the paint job and the overall execution.

>>11823334
Idk what to say, kys?

>>11823334
That's a lego lightsaber piece

>>11823366
>>11823333
Saw this on mobile and thought why so harsh, now I saw it on a large screen and yeah that is a pretty sloppy build with dads old brown oil paints isn't it

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bullshit nothing beige piece from my 1/48 abrams fell into my biege carpet and I can't find it after an hour of searching

>>11824098
nigger lol

Just wondering from the folks here, but is anyone going to Modelpalooza in October?

>>11824098
it sucks so much but when I lose a piece in my carpet I just vacuum around my table and then sift through the dirt lol

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>>11824098
>he doesn't know the flashlight technique
Easy fix.

First, grab a trusty flashlight. Turn off most your lights and hold the flashlight parallel to the carpet, and scan that bitch up and down, back and forth. The part will cast a long shadow and make it easy to identify. Also light bouncing off of the piece could give it away even if you shoot the light more directly. This tip has saved me from countless fumbles.

>>11824749
This is the all else fails method, and I prefer to put panty hose over the suction to capture the tiny piece rather than hoover it up.

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not sure what to do about this grand canyon sized gap.
I'm thinking maybe put on some PS sheet behind it and just try to fill it in with putty?

>>11824833
this is where >>11821968 comes in
I used to fill big gaps with sprue shavings

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sup dudes, I have a monogram 1975 1/48 b-17 that I'm going to put together. I usually build tanks and mecha so I don't have much experience with aircraft. I was wondering about after market parts and maybe some advice on how to properly go about building this, any tips would be appreciated.

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Full pic of da rex

>>11825003
You need filler. Lots and lots of filler (get an extra tube while you are at it). I hope you didn't pay much more than $30 for this beast at the most.

Get vac form or otherwise aftermarket transparencies (this is the worst part of the kit desu), plus engines, cockpit and landing gear are good to upgrade. Sagged wheels are a must and probably one of the simplest aftermarket upgrades to do. A radio room, bombardier compartment and bomb bay are more or less missing from the kit or are greatly simplified. An option for open bomb bay doors are missing, you will need to cut through the fuselage and thin the plastic with a rotary tool or try to this the plastic in that area down, since it will be thick. This kit has raised panel lines, so your options are either a.) weather with highlights, not shadows or b.) sand everything flush and scribe it all into the plastic using 3 views or other reference images.

If you ask me, either tuck it away for another day and get more experience before tackling it or sell it. You are a braver man than me.

>>11824833
man if i saw that i would just throw that shit in the trash

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>>11825105
the whole kit is pretty shit (dragon rebox of ancient trimaster 1/48 fw-190) but other than this its really not much worse than the other ancient kits I've built already. The photo etch stuff is pretty nice and this is probably the best out of box cockpit I've ever seen on a kit this old.
Lots of flash, and there was a weird almost mold seam line before the tail that I really had to sand down because it was a big very obvious hump even after I got rid of the actual LINE. Fitment is generally ok besides that shitty front cowl.

Mostly bought it because it was on sale and it has a torpedo which I thought was really neat

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>>11825099
METAL

G
E
A
R
!
?

>>11825119
You can tell it's al, coz his hand is all fucked up

>>11825100
ok so it's a bit of a beast from what you said. I was looking at some aftermarket stuff; like landing gear seems like a must same with the guns.I don't think I'll have the interior fully visible so that shouldn't be an issue I hope. as a side note I didn't pay anything for it lol, it was my grandpa's. he flew the real thing and it was sitting in storage. I'm going to build it for my dad as a gift.

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I’m new to scale modeling.

Has anybody tried these ammo acrylic washes for weathering scale models?
I got some Bandai spirits Star Wars models to paint.
I want to prime them using white acrylic primer mixed with acrylic paint to match the main colors of the x wing and tie fighters.
Any Ak interactive paint suggestions? Those are what the store near me sells.

There’s also sludge washes that use acrylic paints but I’m not sure about that method as it may mean varnishing first and I have to restore my airbrush I was never good with.

Lastly what kind of tweezer is best for removing and picking up and applying stickers best? The Bandai spirits stickers are really small so may need to practice delicacy a lot more.
I saw a tamiya tweezer go for like 20 Canadian and I’m not sure of it.

>>11821866
Cute cat!
I wish I wasn’t allergic to cats :(

>>11825254
Before anyone mentions enamel I want to stick with acrylic as I might get a pet soon.

>>11825255
how about oils with odourless thinner

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>>11825146
you can tell you're a fucking retard because it isn't AI

>>11823365
No its okay
Ive been doing experiments with the Cooriart Liquid Chrome Pens and they're really fucking weird, either drying like normal paint or still able to be wiped off after three weeks. I like paint markers though so I appreciate the info

>>11825255
like >>11825258 said oils are way more forgiving. just varnish before hand; semi gloss or gloss, tamiya is your friend. oils have a long dry time, about 2 days; and you can erase anything you are not happy with using odourless thinner. just let the oils drain on some cardboard, thin them with thinner until they flow like a wash. let them sit for a minute until they are partially dry; like 30 minutes or something, and clean up the excess with the thinner. you can litteral undo everything whenever you want and if you are happy with the results you can just varnish right away, you don't need to wait for it to fully cure.

>>11825258
>>11825274
I should have included oils as well.
Generally I want to stay with acrylics to minimize my hobby desk from being as toxic free as possible.
Mostly because my hobby spot is gonna have a resin 3d printer which will have a lot of work for ventilation.
So that’s part of why I want to stick to acrylics which is why I inquired about ammo’s acrylic washes.

On a different note what are some particularly good scale model stl makers?

>>11825241
In that case then, get some practice. first. Engines are a must, wheels are a must too. It is easy to manufacture new gun barrels from the old ones with a drill or rotary tool and a very fine bit. I will suggest having some hollow brass rods handy. Tom Grigat has a stop motion animation of this process, though in 1/72 (I believe it is in his 1.72 B-17 video). It might not be "the best" for 1/48 scale, but it is more than enough. Review the parts first, though. Tom used a rivet tool for his model to create a stressed skin surface. They make these for scale widths in a variety of scales, but this is going above and beyond.

If you choose to rescribe details, razor saws are fine. Avoid the Tamiya one, the blade is too long and flimsy, which makes it prone to breakage. JLC is the best and it is good value too. About the same price if not cheaper than Tamiya, but for a shorter blade, plus it has a wood handle, which I find helps since I get sweaty hands.
>>11825254
I work with acrylics. Vallejo and AK 3rd gen are the best lines. Washes may be made from paint, simple take a small amount of paint and add thinner, say 1 #2 brush of paint per five drops of thinner or more. I use 10 drops for washes, 8 drops for filters, as well as panel lines highlighted using artist graphite and charcoal.

I find that Ammo is good for other stuff, but cannot vouch for their paints. I am impressed with their filler though. It is easier to sand than Tamiya and is shrink free.

A question for the folks here. I am interested in maybe getting an ErgoKiwi knife. They take Number 2 blades, but are quite expensive for the wooden models (what you get for making them in Massachusetts). I want an ergonomic knife for larger blades with a wood, rubber or metal grip (polymer makes my hands sweat). Are they worth it?

The plan is to construct a model airport by tiles, in 1/300, and again in 1/144. I will be scratch making them from sheet materials. You may recall this from a previous thread.

>>11825288
>that wash recipe
That sounds helpful actually!
Can I apply this to acrylic primer surfaces and the wash will fill recess and wrap around rivets well enough?

>>11825281
oils are peak and do not smell. they're neat for washes, shading, drybrushing, probably a bunch of other stuff. don't get goyed into buying acrylic ak extreme interactive mig by ammo eastern front mid early war starship filth when you can just make your own

also are you that nigger who was going to replace his airbrush because it needed cleaning

>>11825288
ok cool I'll check out that video, I'm not yet sure how far I'm going to take it to the "100% historically accurate" level so depending on the part quality I'll weigh my options on if I want to rescribe everything; I'm definitely getting rivets for him though. anyway thank you dude! I'll post pictures a year from now when it's half built lol.

>>11825305
I’ll check if my lgs has oils then.
>are you that
I remember asking about airbrush cleaning because I was out of airbrush usage only acrylics for a while and just left my airbrush to sit and be dirty so I may have asked if it could be restored to working condition.
And if that couldn’t be the case I would live and learn to take care of my next airbrush.
So maybe it was me.
Or it could be another retard like me.
I’m taking baby steps into scale modeling after having had some fun with assembling a gunpla kit and curious about scale model painting techniques now.

>Ak and ammo rant there
Can I get a rundown of what’s wrong with them? I know a shop that sells tamiya and I think I saw some mr. Hobby stuff too.

>>11825312
nothing wrong exactly, it's just that you should be able to mix up a wash yourself when needed for much less, acrylic, enamel or oil.
>I’ll check if my lgs has oils then.
unlikely. mini fags and wargamers are all acrylic. I went with winsor newton from an art supply shop

>>11824759
Where in your plan will you consider the fact that a cleanly hoovered hardwood floor and carpet are not the same thing and you can't do the flashlight thing on fucking carpets when the part is in the carpet?

>>11825309
>I'll weigh my options on if I want to rescribe everything
wait nvm I'm retarded the b17g had raised panels

>>11825320
>w&n
Anything I should be aware about using those paints just in case?
I think minifags and wargamers stick with acrylics because the big boy only sells acrylics as hobby stuff.
A lot of miniature painting breakthroughs or “new techniques” are rediscoveries of scale model and even makeup stuff.

>>11825289
You are welcome, but I have never applied wash directly to primer. Only over a sealing layer. Boomer mythos says to alter sealing layers from acrylic to something else, but I do not follow this and a lot of people don't. I think it has to do with first generation acrylics, which were more or less artist acrylics that were upcharged.
>>11825309
>>11825324
You are welcome. I know that you are experienced with AFVs, but again, please get something to prime yourself, that you might not particularly care about as much. A kit that is not perfect, but good enough to familiarize yourself with the idiosyncrasies of building and painting aircraft (something like a P-51 or Spitfire in 1/48), I would suggest Airfix or maybe a Short Run kit from Special Hobby, though this will be more challenging. I suggest these as they are *not* perfect like the comparably priced Tamiya options when it comes to fit, and you may use them to test some of the techniques that I have told you about first. Will most of /smg/ suggest these? No, for the exact reason highlighted, but the point is practice and to not screw up on the thing that you really want to come out in the best way possible.

>>11825329
>Anything I should be aware about using those paints just in case?
just that they're very messy and you need proper thinner. check some youtube builds or something for what oil can do. the other brands might be better or worse but I don't think the quality has any bearing on modelling