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I am going to convert this
USS Kearsarge by Revell
into
SMS Nautilus of the Austro Hungarian Navy
and slab some fine Aeronaut and Krick eletronics and drives into it
for it to become the horror of the ducks on my pond.

aye

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Man, I am swindled for the second time with these AK markers, the brown is borderline pink
I have 11 markers of which 2 are shit which is a really bad ratio of quality
>>11821903
Vgh... Habsbvger GroBflotte...

how do you nerds rate sprue goo? worth the time, or garbage boomer lore?

>>11821968
I haven't tried it but actually also kind of curious to know

>>11821920
What paint markers do you recommend
I could use some skin tones personally but you could talk about any

>>11821968
>>11822072
Boomer lore. It can work, but it is temperamental and ruins surface detail very easily and it does not sand well at all.

Have any of you ever sold models you built? Did you have any issues with the receiver claiming it was damaged in shipping? or do you only sell locally?

>>11822080
NTA but for models the AK ones are pretty much peak. For other craft stuff POSCA is good, but they lay the paint way too thick for models. In any case drawing full camo like that is to me not the use case for markers anyways. Just dotting little details like lights, dials or edges etc.

>>11822355
Only in two ways

1) Friend bought a kit for me they wanted built

2) Bought directly from the desk at a model show and they handled transport themselves.

Honestly working out a good shipment packaging is the prime reason not to bother with sales that don't happen in person

>>11822683
Thank you, I'm retarded and using gundam markers

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I'm stuck in the rain so I'll post some local contest goods

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Omg it miku

>>11823268
Don't let me discourage you, I'm in yurope so I don't really get much of that chink shit here and can't really comment on it. Unless it's POSCA and it is in Europe. Fuck sorry if I caused more confusion, I have really just never had issues with AK shit and if I have had then their support throws a coupon or two my way.

>>11823328
Pretty good

>>11823330
Good other than that fucking obvious sponge tree and shit ass composition.

>>11823333
Good on everything except the composition, the paint job and the overall execution.

>>11823334
Idk what to say, kys?

>>11823334
That's a lego lightsaber piece

>>11823366
>>11823333
Saw this on mobile and thought why so harsh, now I saw it on a large screen and yeah that is a pretty sloppy build with dads old brown oil paints isn't it

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bullshit nothing beige piece from my 1/48 abrams fell into my biege carpet and I can't find it after an hour of searching

>>11824098
nigger lol

Just wondering from the folks here, but is anyone going to Modelpalooza in October?

>>11824098
it sucks so much but when I lose a piece in my carpet I just vacuum around my table and then sift through the dirt lol

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>>11824098
>he doesn't know the flashlight technique
Easy fix.

First, grab a trusty flashlight. Turn off most your lights and hold the flashlight parallel to the carpet, and scan that bitch up and down, back and forth. The part will cast a long shadow and make it easy to identify. Also light bouncing off of the piece could give it away even if you shoot the light more directly. This tip has saved me from countless fumbles.

>>11824749
This is the all else fails method, and I prefer to put panty hose over the suction to capture the tiny piece rather than hoover it up.

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not sure what to do about this grand canyon sized gap.
I'm thinking maybe put on some PS sheet behind it and just try to fill it in with putty?

>>11824833
this is where >>11821968 comes in
I used to fill big gaps with sprue shavings

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sup dudes, I have a monogram 1975 1/48 b-17 that I'm going to put together. I usually build tanks and mecha so I don't have much experience with aircraft. I was wondering about after market parts and maybe some advice on how to properly go about building this, any tips would be appreciated.

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Full pic of da rex

>>11825003
You need filler. Lots and lots of filler (get an extra tube while you are at it). I hope you didn't pay much more than $30 for this beast at the most.

Get vac form or otherwise aftermarket transparencies (this is the worst part of the kit desu), plus engines, cockpit and landing gear are good to upgrade. Sagged wheels are a must and probably one of the simplest aftermarket upgrades to do. A radio room, bombardier compartment and bomb bay are more or less missing from the kit or are greatly simplified. An option for open bomb bay doors are missing, you will need to cut through the fuselage and thin the plastic with a rotary tool or try to this the plastic in that area down, since it will be thick. This kit has raised panel lines, so your options are either a.) weather with highlights, not shadows or b.) sand everything flush and scribe it all into the plastic using 3 views or other reference images.

If you ask me, either tuck it away for another day and get more experience before tackling it or sell it. You are a braver man than me.

>>11824833
man if i saw that i would just throw that shit in the trash

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>>11825105
the whole kit is pretty shit (dragon rebox of ancient trimaster 1/48 fw-190) but other than this its really not much worse than the other ancient kits I've built already. The photo etch stuff is pretty nice and this is probably the best out of box cockpit I've ever seen on a kit this old.
Lots of flash, and there was a weird almost mold seam line before the tail that I really had to sand down because it was a big very obvious hump even after I got rid of the actual LINE. Fitment is generally ok besides that shitty front cowl.

Mostly bought it because it was on sale and it has a torpedo which I thought was really neat

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>>11825099
METAL

G
E
A
R
!
?

>>11825119
You can tell it's al, coz his hand is all fucked up

>>11825100
ok so it's a bit of a beast from what you said. I was looking at some aftermarket stuff; like landing gear seems like a must same with the guns.I don't think I'll have the interior fully visible so that shouldn't be an issue I hope. as a side note I didn't pay anything for it lol, it was my grandpa's. he flew the real thing and it was sitting in storage. I'm going to build it for my dad as a gift.

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I’m new to scale modeling.

Has anybody tried these ammo acrylic washes for weathering scale models?
I got some Bandai spirits Star Wars models to paint.
I want to prime them using white acrylic primer mixed with acrylic paint to match the main colors of the x wing and tie fighters.
Any Ak interactive paint suggestions? Those are what the store near me sells.

There’s also sludge washes that use acrylic paints but I’m not sure about that method as it may mean varnishing first and I have to restore my airbrush I was never good with.

Lastly what kind of tweezer is best for removing and picking up and applying stickers best? The Bandai spirits stickers are really small so may need to practice delicacy a lot more.
I saw a tamiya tweezer go for like 20 Canadian and I’m not sure of it.

>>11821866
Cute cat!
I wish I wasn’t allergic to cats :(

>>11825254
Before anyone mentions enamel I want to stick with acrylic as I might get a pet soon.

>>11825255
how about oils with odourless thinner

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>>11825146
you can tell you're a fucking retard because it isn't AI

>>11823365
No its okay
Ive been doing experiments with the Cooriart Liquid Chrome Pens and they're really fucking weird, either drying like normal paint or still able to be wiped off after three weeks. I like paint markers though so I appreciate the info

>>11825255
like >>11825258 said oils are way more forgiving. just varnish before hand; semi gloss or gloss, tamiya is your friend. oils have a long dry time, about 2 days; and you can erase anything you are not happy with using odourless thinner. just let the oils drain on some cardboard, thin them with thinner until they flow like a wash. let them sit for a minute until they are partially dry; like 30 minutes or something, and clean up the excess with the thinner. you can litteral undo everything whenever you want and if you are happy with the results you can just varnish right away, you don't need to wait for it to fully cure.

>>11825258
>>11825274
I should have included oils as well.
Generally I want to stay with acrylics to minimize my hobby desk from being as toxic free as possible.
Mostly because my hobby spot is gonna have a resin 3d printer which will have a lot of work for ventilation.
So that’s part of why I want to stick to acrylics which is why I inquired about ammo’s acrylic washes.

On a different note what are some particularly good scale model stl makers?

>>11825241
In that case then, get some practice. first. Engines are a must, wheels are a must too. It is easy to manufacture new gun barrels from the old ones with a drill or rotary tool and a very fine bit. I will suggest having some hollow brass rods handy. Tom Grigat has a stop motion animation of this process, though in 1/72 (I believe it is in his 1.72 B-17 video). It might not be "the best" for 1/48 scale, but it is more than enough. Review the parts first, though. Tom used a rivet tool for his model to create a stressed skin surface. They make these for scale widths in a variety of scales, but this is going above and beyond.

If you choose to rescribe details, razor saws are fine. Avoid the Tamiya one, the blade is too long and flimsy, which makes it prone to breakage. JLC is the best and it is good value too. About the same price if not cheaper than Tamiya, but for a shorter blade, plus it has a wood handle, which I find helps since I get sweaty hands.
>>11825254
I work with acrylics. Vallejo and AK 3rd gen are the best lines. Washes may be made from paint, simple take a small amount of paint and add thinner, say 1 #2 brush of paint per five drops of thinner or more. I use 10 drops for washes, 8 drops for filters, as well as panel lines highlighted using artist graphite and charcoal.

I find that Ammo is good for other stuff, but cannot vouch for their paints. I am impressed with their filler though. It is easier to sand than Tamiya and is shrink free.

A question for the folks here. I am interested in maybe getting an ErgoKiwi knife. They take Number 2 blades, but are quite expensive for the wooden models (what you get for making them in Massachusetts). I want an ergonomic knife for larger blades with a wood, rubber or metal grip (polymer makes my hands sweat). Are they worth it?

The plan is to construct a model airport by tiles, in 1/300, and again in 1/144. I will be scratch making them from sheet materials. You may recall this from a previous thread.

>>11825288
>that wash recipe
That sounds helpful actually!
Can I apply this to acrylic primer surfaces and the wash will fill recess and wrap around rivets well enough?

>>11825281
oils are peak and do not smell. they're neat for washes, shading, drybrushing, probably a bunch of other stuff. don't get goyed into buying acrylic ak extreme interactive mig by ammo eastern front mid early war starship filth when you can just make your own

also are you that nigger who was going to replace his airbrush because it needed cleaning

>>11825288
ok cool I'll check out that video, I'm not yet sure how far I'm going to take it to the "100% historically accurate" level so depending on the part quality I'll weigh my options on if I want to rescribe everything; I'm definitely getting rivets for him though. anyway thank you dude! I'll post pictures a year from now when it's half built lol.

>>11825305
I’ll check if my lgs has oils then.
>are you that
I remember asking about airbrush cleaning because I was out of airbrush usage only acrylics for a while and just left my airbrush to sit and be dirty so I may have asked if it could be restored to working condition.
And if that couldn’t be the case I would live and learn to take care of my next airbrush.
So maybe it was me.
Or it could be another retard like me.
I’m taking baby steps into scale modeling after having had some fun with assembling a gunpla kit and curious about scale model painting techniques now.

>Ak and ammo rant there
Can I get a rundown of what’s wrong with them? I know a shop that sells tamiya and I think I saw some mr. Hobby stuff too.

>>11825312
nothing wrong exactly, it's just that you should be able to mix up a wash yourself when needed for much less, acrylic, enamel or oil.
>I’ll check if my lgs has oils then.
unlikely. mini fags and wargamers are all acrylic. I went with winsor newton from an art supply shop

>>11824759
Where in your plan will you consider the fact that a cleanly hoovered hardwood floor and carpet are not the same thing and you can't do the flashlight thing on fucking carpets when the part is in the carpet?

>>11825309
>I'll weigh my options on if I want to rescribe everything
wait nvm I'm retarded the b17g had raised panels

>>11825320
>w&n
Anything I should be aware about using those paints just in case?
I think minifags and wargamers stick with acrylics because the big boy only sells acrylics as hobby stuff.
A lot of miniature painting breakthroughs or “new techniques” are rediscoveries of scale model and even makeup stuff.

>>11825289
You are welcome, but I have never applied wash directly to primer. Only over a sealing layer. Boomer mythos says to alter sealing layers from acrylic to something else, but I do not follow this and a lot of people don't. I think it has to do with first generation acrylics, which were more or less artist acrylics that were upcharged.
>>11825309
>>11825324
You are welcome. I know that you are experienced with AFVs, but again, please get something to prime yourself, that you might not particularly care about as much. A kit that is not perfect, but good enough to familiarize yourself with the idiosyncrasies of building and painting aircraft (something like a P-51 or Spitfire in 1/48), I would suggest Airfix or maybe a Short Run kit from Special Hobby, though this will be more challenging. I suggest these as they are *not* perfect like the comparably priced Tamiya options when it comes to fit, and you may use them to test some of the techniques that I have told you about first. Will most of /smg/ suggest these? No, for the exact reason highlighted, but the point is practice and to not screw up on the thing that you really want to come out in the best way possible.

>>11825329
>Anything I should be aware about using those paints just in case?
just that they're very messy and you need proper thinner. check some youtube builds or something for what oil can do. the other brands might be better or worse but I don't think the quality has any bearing on modelling

Is this the right place to ask about scale model terrain making for historic war zones to model trains?
I’m in the mood for some diy stuff like grass, moss, corrosion like rust etc.
I want to make ruined overgrown cities.
By chance if this is the wrong place then what is the right place to ask these questions?

>>11825491
You're asking no questions and just rambling about what you want to make. Go on YouTube and see some people build something similar to what you wanna do. Make a shopping list of materials based on what you see, THEN come back and ask qualified specific questions

>>11825259
Gojira won't be your friend, retard

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primed this little shit nigga
first time holding airbrush, went badly
did it on balcony

>>11826631
he cute
there is a bit of a learning curve when it comes to airbrushing, some quick advice:
1. don't overload the cup, a little bit goes a long way.
2. don't pull back all the way on the trigger, this causes splattering.
3. if your using a dual action airbrush; don't push down all the way, this allows you to better adjust the tightness of the lines.

I got a new camera (my mother gave me her old iPad), but I will wait until I am finished with my current project before taking a picture. I have no clue what camera it has, but it is almost guaranteed to be better than the camera that I had been using.

>inb4 crapple

>>11826892
what are you working on?

>>11826941
1/144 B6N Tenzan. I finished my Shiden Kai from earlier. The Tenzan is not fighting me as much, but it still has needed more filler than expected.

But it was $2 for the both of them.

>>11826965
oh damn nice is it the hasegawa kai?

>>11826989
No, they are the LS kits. Hasegawa 1st gen 1/144 kits are awful because they all made them slightly overscale at 1/140 for everything. I almost bought their Wildcat at a show, until I realized that it would look big, so I will just get the Sweet or F-Toys (maybe Bandai Wing Club, but those are barely kits depending on what you get, some just involve adding the propeller).

The Hasegawa 1/144 kits you want are the ones made by Takara for Hasegawa, but those aren't even in Scalemates. ;)

Also most Japanese 1/144 kits are generally written off as toys and are sold pre-painted or otherwise molded in colour, but I redo their colours. They still are better than many of their European or Asian counterparts (though Dragon's, as well as Zvezda's latest are really good too), but enough of me waffling on like a faggot.

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can't wait to stop sanding and filling and replacing panel lines

>>11827148
use black super glue

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bereg done

>>11826892
Take pics immediately so you can learn the lighting not the camera was the issue and still will be

>>11827291
Really nice work, I like the subtly weathered look rather than some mudfest all over.

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>>11827319
Then how do I fix the lighting?

>>11827359
Zoom was 2x and file size was medium by the way, had lights and the sun in the room at the time too.

In two minds whether to give up taking pictures.

>>11827359
>>11827365
Are you autistic or something? Why is the plane only taking up 1/6th of the frame?

>>11827374
>autistic
No, but my IQ is not high (78 by professional evaluation), so I guess retarded.

It is 1/144, so it is half a pointer finger in length, I tried moving the camera closer, but then I got a shadow, I wanted to try more zoom, but it looked pixelated in the viewfinder.

>>11827377
Based retard. Okay that's fair enough, but consider these posts >>11825115 >>11824833 both of which are of even smaller subjects yet perfectly in focus. Get the camera closer to the subject without blocking the light source if you cannot zoom with it. And if zoom is only digital zoom, don't zoom at all

>>11827397
Thank you. I will try again once the Tenzan is finished, since it is a (slightly) larger aircraft in size. The digital zoom advice is definitely helpful.

The other anon has a larger subject in 1/48, but yeah, I see what you mean.

1/144 is fun

>>11827291
do you have a cat for scale?

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>>11827291
Cool. But akshually, it doesn't really look like that. Maybe the black lines should be a bit thicker for my taste...

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>>11827319
>Really nice work, I like the subtly weathered look rather than some mudfest all over.
ty, I think I have some mental block that prevents me from going full blown extreme weathering. If you go too heavy theres no going back and it gets me all antsy thinking about it. Pic related on the chassis, spraying down a base dust layer was a big step for me.

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>>11827449
just for you bb, as a bonus you get to peak some of my bookshelves

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>>11827458
maybe a little bit, but your akshually referencing a different scheme

>>11827410
It is, but for the love of all things good, nothing tooled in the last century with the exception of maybe a handful of airliners and some Dragon kits. Most of what I have highlighted to avoid lacks a cockpit, undercarriage bays, engine and sometimes entire panels are missing.

Worse yet are even smaller scales. I have a gem from browsing Scalemates to show you folks later (on top of the awful Silver Corn Model Kits that I shared a while ago).

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>>11827553
The gem in question is this rather unassuming kit. The scale is 1/300 and claims to be that of a Boeing E-3A Sentry.

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>>11827676
Unfortunately, had you been so foolish to have bought a Zhengdefu kit of all things, you are in for a nasty surprise. Reminder, the E-3 is based off of a 707, but the contents included are that of a 747.

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>>11827681
And no, this wasn't an error either, the instructions show that to build the E-3 you must build the 747 then attach a radome on top. Which could look neat, had you not been lied to on the packaging in the first place.

The 747 kit itself seems to be a Doyusha clone.

>>11827536
>open shelf
Oh no.
I refuse to keep my models outside of (glass) boxes at this point.

>>11828063
I simply don't expect my models to last forever so I keep the ones I like the most in glass and the ones that are less perfect outside until they become too difficult to clean and get put in the storage box of shame with other old models. Usually they last a good 8 years on display outside before the airborne inevitable cooking grease can't come off so it's fine

>>11827538
Ah, interesting. Didn't know that. I was just going by pictures of the vehicle.

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>>11828154
Russian camouflage was on paper standardized, in practice there were always some variations, probably depending on how lazy the soldiers tasked with painting were, or how much the paint manufacturer felt like adhering to the color standard.

Even the apparently standard Russian three-color camo sometimes was sand, sometimes tan, sometimes an almost yellow. Not sure if it depended on the unit, region, time period, or indeed the whims of the lazy russian serf mind.

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Basecoating gone wrong
Idk what ija green is so i just added some fern green to olive drab

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>>11828171
More yellow is like super 90s, less yellow tan one is 2000s
You also can see early kaktus bmp3 prototypes in same

>>11828263
It's probably still gonna be way better than mine.

My Chi-Ha is guaranteed to be the worst this goupbuild, I'll take a photo once I'm home two days from now. Serves me right, I trusted Vallejo.

>>11828063
its not ideal but its the only spot I got right now, all my display cabinets are full, and the bereg will have to live outside until I build another cabinet

>>11827148
Dragons Ju 188 was a similiar struggle, does every aircraft kit they make have such severe problems?
>>11827359
Use daylight if you can, never photograph into the light, it is not hard
>>11827365
If you are using a tablet's digital camera that cannot move its lenses then zoom does only give you blurrier, smaller images, get the camera as close as you can.

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>>11828273
Nah, that's my first ever model, i used too little thinner on the tan mix and it fucked everything up and way too little water on that red brown
I dunno, i don't have that many paints so I'm waay off in colour aswell, it looks british or french

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Failed miserably on many levels but this was fun, i need masking putty desu
Tried fixing overspray with drybryshing green
Failes with yellow line

>>11828456
Really unhappy with how it turned out so I'm drowning her in isopropyl

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>>11828456
tried to fix it by sorta drybrushing it over and it didn't work i think on my second model i'll just try masking putty

>>11828626
your paint seems pretty thick, remember if you test your paint on your skin you should be able to see your skin texture but not your skin color. if you can see your skin color it's too thin, if you can't see your skin texture it's too thick. masking putty is helpful but let it settle before you spray, as it has a tendency to spread out and droop in odd ways. also you might want to base coat and post shade the cammo first and the base color last. it makes masking less of a pain.

>>11827171
I do
>>11828352
this was the first kit I've ever built from them, and I would say the last if I hadn't already bought their 1/72 Ka-50 at a model show earlier this year
Hopefully its any better (it won't be)

>>11829210
This is for East-Asian bug people who live in a bugpod smaller than a supermax cell, have about one hour downtime a day, and could only dream of running a compressor in their home.

These will probably be shelf-warmers for all eternity here in East-Europe.

>>11821866
makes me smile seeing this cat on the catalog
>>11827536
good looking friend

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>>11829001
thanks, i think mostly i need to rush less

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>>11829240
Carried away too much with chipping

>>11829225
it's been about 2 months now and his coat has improved considerably. Theres no way kitties like being in cages 90% of the time, but with the self imposed process and requirements created by these crazy cat ladies, they're guaranteed to spend a significant amount of time in the shelter

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Are these the new Dragon 3D printer kits?

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>>11829732
No, I think Zimi is just selling complete kits under the drami name.

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>>11830036
One good thing about this Drami thing is they're planning to reprint the 1/35 Little Bird, but honestly it should've been the LAPD MD500 which is super rare.

>chinese guy reviewing kits
>finishes by assessing their resale value
lmao but at least he's being honest about the speculator bs unlike western boomers

>>11830268
How did you find this out? Is the project cutaway 747 going to be released again?

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>>11830277
>https://1drv.ms/f/c/d8052c6265d48204/IgAKOnaCeZUYSKCVPmSlo0WBAZmzOeQy3VzPL2hl_op43kk?e=6k3H89
Some guy posted the DRAMi catalog, also I was wrong about the MD500, it was there but not with the other 1/35 helos.

>>11830279
World's Elite Forces series is the GOAT.

I need to buy US Tank Crew again, because there's literally no other pre-UCP American crew kit commonly available.

>>11821866
Chemical are particularly bad, carcinogenic for cats. Please use a powerful exhaust.

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>>11830287
>all that 1/35 krautshit

>>11830325
>all that 1/35 krautshit
>literally 2 kraut kits in there

How does it feel to be schizophrenic?

>>11821866
I like the kitty

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>>11821866
sorry I know it's ma.k and not typically what gets posted here, but because of the cat pictures from the last thread and the op image of this one. I feel a need to share this pic of a diorama I finished a few months ago.

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>>11830697
boop

>>11830268
Academy should've done this instead of launching their OH-6 line with an IDF bird, fucking gross.

>>11830807
Is scale model building big over in israel, do Japanese poeple really like the seven day war?

>>11830697
>Ma.K anon posts
You are more than welcome here. Nice work, by the way.
>>11830859
IPMS Israel has like 200 members. I am not even exaggerating. Israel's only model company was Starfix. Take a wild guess.

As for nips and 7 day war, I don't know.

Regardless, Academy dropped the ball by not making a KPAAF MD500 if you ask me. One of the more curious types over there, that is for certain, plus a different camouflage to boot.

>>11830859
Academy is Korean, IDF is probably bigger in China because Meng, Takom, Border, etc. just can't stop putting out Israeli AFVs and planes.

>>11830888
>You are more than welcome here. Nice work, by the way.
thank you :)

>>11830697
>>11830698
I like it
I personally would prefer more colors but as a discrete DIOS - especially if you have more and varied ones - it's very nice work

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nice casting texture... for a 20$ kit

>>11831163
hey, that's the tamiya T-34/76 Chtz
it should also come with 2 figures and a dshk machine gun on a wheeled mount

>>11831039
thank you :)
>>11831163
damn that's pretty nice

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>>11830697
/smg/ is for people like you that do more than click together plastic pieces like a LEGO set, but paint and weather and even here make dioramas. That's the real difference between the gundam fags and this place, subject be damned. The plasticky ugly gundams look so fucking boring compared to getting a little paint on them

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>>11830325
slavshit sucks because of its k/d ratio
while kraut space magic is the uncontested k/d champion.

apart from bants, german camo autism and star wars imperial design flavours in twenty different versions per vehicle
simply beat olive green t34/sherman uniformity. ok, i give you the priest and the dumbo.
has anyone ever counted how many different tanks, spgs, spaags, stugs etc. have been made out of Panzer IVs?
or which different tanks they horseshoed into marders?
diversity is strength (in german armor modeling, lol)

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>>11832228
ok?

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it's shit but it was fun
i wanna do more

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>>11832110
yeah I usually post my ma.k stuff on the /m/ /gpg/ breads. I notice it's a lot of arguing or complaining about bandai. while most anons are focused exclusively on gundam, and only a few post painted models. there are 2 other anons that post ma.k pretty frequently, but it feels less focused on the hobby compared to here. I build tanks on occasion and really like /smg/ more than /gpg/ the anons here are much more involved imo. oh and nice weathering job! assuming that's your model. since it's cool to post ma.k here I'm gonna share my last project :)

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>>11832363

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>>11832364
last one

>>11832363
ma.k has jg51?

>>11832230
the soviets could play a bit more with colour and tuning

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>>11832450
>>11832230
like this

>>11832228
nigger

>>11832416
lol the single decal actually is what inspired the paint scheme, but I played around with it a bit

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>>11832451
Sorry but i like this
German aircraft camos do slap though, but soviets have better pinup art

>>11832478
The truth is that Finland does both better.

instructions call for RLM 76 but I don't have that, and neither do any of the local hobby shops. Don't feel like waiting a week for a singular pot of paint from an online order
if I use use one of the bluish grays I already have will you guys be mad? :(

Has anyone tried tiled dioramas? How do you plan it so the tiles match up?

Also advice on custom decals is welcome too.

>>11832854
if you commit such a disgusting blasphemy I will
>ruthlessly critique it
>bitch about the current generation
>continue to never post my models
>complain about my 4th SWMBO
>wonder why my kids dont talk to me
>inhale some more pledge floor cleaner

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>>11832891
alright cool cuz none of these are the right colors and I've kind of stopped trying on this build desu
the kit isn't very good

>>11832954
>none of these are the right colors
ya know it's not good to get bogged down by 100x historical accuracy. playing around with different levels of saturation, opacity, hues, and lighting is really fun and liberating. plus you might learn a few tricks along the way from simple experimentation. in any case that little wulf looks good.

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>>11833004
>>11832854
Paint scheme looks good, really no reason to concern about accuracy like this. The thing is that nobody (alive) actually knows what 100% accurate RLM colors are, almost all museum pieces are repainted (pic related IS NOT. And it's a huge fucking rarity to see. But the paint is faded and old so again impossible to conclude from). So anyway it's a stupid thing to argue or concern yourself too much over. Even the RAL color guys, who are in fact descended from this, have no fucking idea what the precise shades were. Given that they were German there's a high ish chance it was pretty tightly controlled in the factories, but we don't have any of these so it's pointless to go crazy over.

And that's before we even get to the fact that if you buy 4 different bottles of eg. your RLM76 from the same fucking manufacturer even they're likely to not be identical.

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>lose not just a part but a whole sprue

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I said I'd show you guys mine, because I think it's the worst one yet. Despite being dedicated IJA armor paints, I don't think these colors are accurate at all, and polyurethane acrylics just seem bad in general. Again, serves me right for trusting Vallejo.

I'm not gonna strip it down (again), so the plan is to cover it is so many paint chippings, oil washes, fading, and dust that you could no longer make out how bad the original paintjob is. So far done paint damage down to the base brown and bare metal, after decal comes oils and enamels.

Also I couldn't find definitive proof on how the antenna looked, but judging by the Yasukuni Chi-Ha it was bare copper held by ceramic insulator beads.

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>>11833176
nice
i think this thing needs holes tho, it looks really ugly without them, i drilled them on mine
>>11832362

>>11833176
Wait until I finish the Tenzan, I have always regarded myself as the worst modeller on the board and the decals are guaranteed to silver like heck regardless of what solvent and how much I use. It is from the 1970s, so I expect no different.

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I thought I was on to something using black sharpie to check the progress on cleaning up seams and stuff without needing to load up my airbrush with primer just to touch up a few spots. as it turns out I should have cleaned it off before painting anything...... this is after SEVERAL heavy coats of mr surfacer 1500 btw. I figured it would be fine, and it was totally gone once I put the color coat on.
immediately bleeds through upon spraying on the first light coat of tamiya ts13


how disappointing

>>11833206
Why did you have to poin it out, now I have to fix all the jacks on my chinaman tanks

>>11833327
I'll let you in on another secret: the sharpie will also BLEED THROUGH the paint. I was there already. Don't use it.

>>11832478
>Germany
>Autistic guidelines and templates provided with every vehicle. We will fine tune every dot and line with another Führerbefehl Gott verdammt!

>soviet onion
>Literal children could paint white spots and lines on tanks better than the boozed out sub 70 IQ mongoloids that Stalin was sending to die in the millions.

>Finland
>vitun ryssä perkele :DDDDDDDDD Lets uuse a loot of wonky swastikka as vell :DDDD

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>>11833423
>Germany
>Scheisse our primer is a dogshit colour we need elaborate schemes to cover kt up
>Soviet union
>Simple but very effective

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>>11833362
>>11833327
Then why can't you panel line something like Spider-Man suit webbing on a cheap Ross purchase and need to find a Gundam marker?

>>11830697
Looks fantastic anon, love the cats

>>11833509
>commie cope
lol, nice job finding the one dogshit pattern that looks like it was painted by a 6 year old instead of a 3 year old. But I have to give it to them, it would right blend in when fighting in a tire track factory.

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>>11833886
I wanna do ogledow diorama at some point

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Is Tamiya still the best choice for thin spray primer? Prices have been shooting up like crazy

ive tried using rustoleum gray primer spray, but it goes on way too thick

>>11833634
thank you :)
>>11834046
Mr. Surfacer is way better

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>>11833423
>3 hours in MSPaint later

>>11834279
fuck its the same price

>>11834708
yes but it's better

>>11833423
the camo guidelines for germany began and ended at the factory
out in the field it was whatever paint was available, and even then there are some 'approved' camo schemes that most model companies never make references for because of poor photo contrast, like the early war ral 7021/ 7017, late 1941 - 1942 ad hoc ral 7021/ 8000, and all the long barrel tanks being in 8020 in 1942 aside from the tigers, which were still in 8000 for some reason
there was also something like three different variants of dunklegelb depending on which part of the war you're modelling the tank in

>>11834737
RAL 7021 drives me absolutely batshit because most companies make it with a blue-based black when it should be a green-based black and this perpetual error is why so many early war german models color-shift towards blue.

>>11834788
is it greenish? i know the blue thing is bogus due to first hand accounts of the colour but i've never heard of the greenish tint

>>11834825
Blue-based black tends to tint blue when lightened, green does but far less noticeable. Most black before the 2000s is really either super dark blue or green. So if it's not blue-base it must be green. Really pure black like vanta black is more recent. Green gives it a very, very slight earthy tone.

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>first ever Twisted Metal model kit
>it's 1/25
somebody please bring civilization to these barbarians

>>11834839
1/25 will die with the last boomer.

>>11834839
as a non car person I don't understand the issue

>>11834788
The AK real color dunkgelgrau is greenish-black.

>>11834853
Assuming you're an AFV modeler, imagine if America dominated the market for US tank kits and they're all 1:36 while the German tanks are in 1:35 because that's the standard scale worldwide.
Ship modelers who have seen 1:720 vs 1:700 should be able to get it.

>>11834853
Standard is 1:24 for cars. Used to be 1:25 for American manufacturers in ancient times, and AMT is the main offender of hanging on to bazzillion year old molds.

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>>11834854
Looks that way, yep. You can see how it has the earthier tone I mentioned here too >>11834834

It's very subtle, but present.

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>tanks
1:35
>Planes
1:48
>Ships
1:350
>Cars
1:24

>>11834853
You should if you know how the 1/35 scale happened. (some fucking nip just decided well this shit is close enough to stick batteries into for a Panther model and went with it)
I hate how we can't have normal standardized scales, we need ISO and EU regulations up in this bitch right now! ReeeeeEEEEE!

>>11834866
>Assuming you're an AFV modeler,
occasionally, I build ma.k mostly so I'm kinda used to using every scale on a single model. 1/20th is pretty rare so I use everything from 1/16th to 1/144th. but yeah I could see it being really annoying if you want to have a sherman and tiger in the same diorama and they are slightly different in size. I mean it makes more sense when you are going for accuracy to real world objects.

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>metal barrel instead of a correction set
The Obj 477's barrel was just Trumpy misinterpreting grainy photos. The only way to get a more lore-accurate vehicle is still to kitbash it with the Obj 292, which leaves you with a pile of scrap plastic or parts for an extremely ugly tank.

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I wish this had been 1/35 so I could make a pretty cool Aliens style APC out of the chassis.

I forgot this thread for a few months, does the Japan group build require a Japanese developed or built vehicle or is Japanese service alone enough? If it's the former I'd order the Tamiya Chi-Ha, if the latter then a captured Stuart by Takom or whoever

>>11835328
Either one, it is really flexible.

>>11834867
I blame Revell for having 1/24 and 1/25 run side by side, but I guess it couldn't be helped since they were already neck deep in 1/25 Monogram molds.

>>11835318
too much ground clearance

>>11825491
Terrain Tutor on youtube will get you a good start on what you can do with just the basics.

What brands of acrylic rattlecan top coats are the best quality? I'm thinking of doing oil dot filters on a model. But when I tested tamiya ts-13 gloss coat over a test piece, the paint just melted right off. I've used tamiya ts-80 flat on acrylics before and didn't have any issues. But now I'm worried that I just had good luck and that my next model will be ruined. I live in Europe so I might not be able to get every brand here.

>>11836275
you don't have an airbrush???? tamiya makes spray cans as does mr hobby. I would just use something lacquer based instead of acrylic. from what I know gsi creos makes the best spray can colors. iirc they are self leveling. but the reason the ts13 melted the acrylic paint is because you didn't allow the acrylic layer to fully cure and or you were too heavy handed with the varnish.

>>11836310
Airbrushes are a bit expensive for me so rattlecans it is for now. Guess I'll try to spray really lightly first and then go more heavily on the second layer

>>11836275
Sounds like a skill issue. You're supposed to mist the paint over the piece, not flood the model with all the thinner that has not had the chance to evaporate. Also get an airbrush, you can get an ok compressor and a cheap airbrush for like 100-120€. The compressor is way more important than the airbrush if you're only looking to do base coats and varnish.

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a string of retarded issues with my car will force me to miss a show I intended to participate in

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Kit recommendation to pair these chudcels with?

The box doesn't say, but they're obviously Waffen-SS.

>>11836689
a captured somua

>>11836689
Why are you buying "chudcels"?

>>11836689
Panzer lehr puma

>>11836689
Soviet POW camp

>>11836689
>/toy/
>This is not a toy
Offtopic

>>11830036
Why does the yelling soldier look so Jewish?

>>11836320
Well, I just bought a Chinese BD180 with .2mm nozzle which was 23 Eurobucks (shipment from China included). It is one of the best airbrushes I have used and works perfectly fine. Very happy with the purchase. Add a compressor for anyother 60-80 or so and you're good to go.

>>11836968
>Waffen SS
>Panzer Lehr
right.

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>So my trick to having such a nice finish? I just buy Future, it's about $20 per gallon.
>But Dave, I live in Europe.
>Sorry, I don't know how to convert it into euro per liter, so you're gonna have to see for yourself in your local Walmart.

>>11837267
Tehee. I use Emsal, though.

>>11836689
i think they'd look good on a stug or some flavour of jagdpanzer

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5/10 kit, ok build
dont look too closely at it
1/48 Dragon

how do i stop my decals from cracking
i apply them on a semi glossed surface, use a good amount of mircoset/sol every time one layer dries and seal it again with semi gloss
i have no idea what the problem is, i've been using this method for years and it's only started happening in the last 7 months, but it isn't consistent

>>11838317
Atmospheric conditions?

>>11838406
west coast north america, it's been a pretty mild year all things considered with no big cold snap and the summer has been oddly cool so far

>>11838720
When the decals crack they are normally dried out. I. e. the ink used to print them has lost its flexibility. How were your decals stored? Does that happen with newly bought kits or things you had on the attic for some time?

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To any fellow Chi-Ha builders:
If you're wondering how you're going to mount a flag without a modern whip-antenna, it seems the japs could just stick a flagpole in the hole in the stowed tank jack.

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>>11835338
I see, Stuart is underway now, along with small Ha-Go and I-Go. Altho I will likely do a conversion of ICMs Ford G917T in 1:35 into the sparsely documented Japanese variant, pic rel and the IBG instructions are all I could find for reference or sources.
Must convert it to rigthhand steering, change the cabin roof to be flatter and edgier, same for the windows, add different panellines on the doors, lengthen the boards below the doors, redo all the vertical wooden parts of the freight area and change its supporting structure, as well as scratchbuild new mirrors, frontbumper, star on the grill and a box under the loading deck.
Sounds like much but the kit has no more than five sprues so it should be done befire this month ends

>>11838756
all of them have been tamiya decals, all the kits have been one's i've bought in the past 1-3 years but the kits themselves are 90's ones, i did a matilda recently and those were fine, but some of the one a tamiya panther d cracked
if they are drying out, is there something that can be done to rejuvenate the decals or should i just bite the bullet and order new ones?

>>11839075
>90s
so the decals are 30+ years old. Depending how they were stored they can be dried out. I don't know of any way to fix them, if you already put that microset on it not much more can be done I am afraid.

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>>11821903
she' afloat & like 3cm above the waterline now
so even with the tech and masts will need ballast. since there will be shitty access areas post sail installation, ive bought only krick and aerinaut components, not gonna rely on chinktech for this beaut.
but im gonna close thise gunports for more freeboard
aye

I need 4bo
Would equal part olivegrun/drab work

>>11839493
nice! I honestly don't see many shipwrights desu. armor and flying armor seem to dominate.

>>11839562
im working on a 1/350 tirpiz, waiting for upgrade kit with metal barrels, wooden deck to come by aliexpress, should be there in 1.5 months!

>>11839472
presumably the kits are just rereleases of those old 90's kits along with the decals, i don't think any of them were sitting in a shop or a warehouse for 30 years

>>11839587
>1/350 tirpiz
>717 mm in length
oof good luck anon

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second ever model i painted
tried to apply some highlights but i think i needed way more white in proportion for this to the point itd be almost white, like 70% white

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>>11840357
my putty dried out (rip) so ill probably cover tanks with tarp and barrel with some net or smth

>>11840357
very nice dude!

tfw haven't had time to build for a month because of new job and travelling constantly

feels bad man

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>>11840357
i attempted to make it more apparent and failed spectacularly
well, im learning

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>>11840536

>>11840536
>>11840544
you can always tone it done by misting over it with the basecoat again. I had to do this just last week, the fuckups never end

>>11840536
no model will ever be 'perfect', there will always be some imperfection that only you notice
that being said clear coat and a wash would probably tone that down, if that's what you want
but for a second model this is pretty good, a lot better than mine was

>>11840536
It will look better if the direction of your highlights is consistent.

>>11840562
I was wondering why tho,

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>>11840536
>>11840544
On the next model consider inverting the direction of the gradient. Lighter on the bottom, darker on the top.

I want to make a small 1/35 tank and I am conspicuously missing a Hetzer
I have a choice between Takom, Italeri, Airfix and Tamiya, which one would (You) pick?

>>11841154
Tamiya if i want stress free basic build
Takom if i want plastic tracks and more versions like early/mid/late/command/winterketten etc

>>11841154
>Hetzer
shit tank why bother

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>>11841241
it's cute although i like luchs more

>>11829365
What color did you use for chipping
I used gun steel cause I was a retard rushing things and it looks terrible

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Man, in 1/48 the quality drop between trumpeter (hobby boss) and Tamiya is extremely tangible
The kit is just bad by modern standards
All the more reason to cover it up in cope cages

>>11841338
basically rotbraun with black enough to make it look similar to ready chipping color

>>11841421
Is the tooling from before CR2 even existed? I don't think I've EVER seen plastic look like that on anything but sub 1/72nd scale sludge

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>spray model with Tamiya flatcoat
>extreme frosting
>blast the model immediately after with just thinner
>frosting disappears
This hack already saved my ass a few times. Basically almost any airbrushing malfunction can be smoothed out by coating it with thinner, so the paint reactivates and dries again.

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This anon >>11832362 already made tank no. 31 from the 3. Company of the 1. Tank Regiment, so I'm making tank no. 32. from the same platoon.

>>11841473
i've also heard that a layer of gloss will get rid of any frosting, but i've never tried that myself

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trying to go ham on weathering

>>11841518
it works, I've had to do it before

>>11841518
Probably the same mechanism, the thinner in the gloss paint dissolving the frosting. So IMO it's simpler to just spray some thinner on it.

>>11841441
NTA but it's a new tool from 2025, to tell you the truth all tan colored Trumptetboss kits have that feeling.

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>>11836689
On the topic of tank crews I find it so odd that Dragon is the only company that ever made a plastic kit of a tank crew with the oak leaf camo jumpsuits.

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whats a good "burnt iron" color I can use for the base layer of exhausts? ideally something I can reasonably both brush on and airbrush with.
I've been using Mr Color's C61 and I love it, but I'm almost out and I can't seem to find anyone with it still in stock... I find it works incredibly well as the first stage of painting the exhaust manifolds on both car and aircraft engines, before adding on stains and rust and such.

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>>11841965
found this, which looks about right. I regularly use and (mostly) enjoy vallejo paints but I've never heard of this particular line. Worth trying?

>>11841967
I have used it and it works fine, dries fast. But be very careful not to pool it as it will prduce weird round spots in the paint (which can be obscured through weathering). Also it tends to pool around minimal imperfections in the surface (like when you work on gloss black base).

>>11842403
looks nice and tidy, but the shading on the hull is a little strange

>>11842838
i know, im gonna shit a ton of filters and stains on it

>>11842403
That fucking warhammer pillow shading always looks so retarded. Hopefully all the weathering will tone it down.

>>11842965
it will

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>>11841967
Here

yes goyim buy all the different shades

>>11843392
I'd normally agree but mixing the metal colors sucks ass compared to "regular" colors. I still buy all the shades of regular colors though

>>11841441
In English, Einstein!

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is this too much chipping or just misplaced?.

>>11844059
Neither. it looks fine. It works very well to distract the eye from how retarded the shading is. Huge improvement from the previous pictures.
Maybe chip the front glacis plate a bit more.

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So... Malaya campaign, Malay Peninsula. How to weather?

Muddy, dry earth, dust? Brown earth, red earth, black earth? Mostly jungle combat, mostly urban combat, mostly open plains, etc?

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>>11844796
Chinchilla sand

>>11844796
Despite the campaign being within the typical northern monsoon season, most pictures show the dirt roads to be surprisingly dry and not muddy. The dirt in question varies from a bleached tan to a light brown slightly tinged with a rusty red. You could probably split the difference and go with a light brown/tan. Application would be more dusty than muddy, with most build-up on the lower parts and running gear. Overall dirt weathering should be fairly light. The reasoning here being that despite the lack of mud, it is still in the rainy season so enough precipitation is falling to help wash grime off vehicles. So it is neither summer parched nor quagmire wet.

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Working on my third model

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>>11845477
Here's another one i did

>>11845477
>>11845478
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m3p_VuPIS2c

>>11845477
i was planning for 109f4 to me my third model but i cracked the canopy so i think into the trash it goes, it's icm anyways and was like 15$, i'll be way more careful with the eduard i bought

>>11845477
Thank god for that masking tape, huh friendo?

Who here watches Bobby fingers

>>11843053
are those the tamiya brand spoons?

>>11845477
Sir there appears to be a model in your paint.

I absolutely despise PE, I refuse to use any sort of PE to assemble a set of slat armor
See you in 2035 when I'm done with making one out of styrene sheets

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>>11846246
>blocks your path
nothin personal kid

>>11846246
I feel you. I get PE where it is easily added and glued on a nice flat face (or maybe a single bend or something reasonable) but I didn't buy a plastic kit to do metal origami

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>>11821866
Hey guys. I'm in the market for a REALLY cheap airbrush + compressor combo. Never had an airbrush before and can't afford 200-300€ right now.
I wanted to ask, do these mini/portable kits actually work? I just need one for varnishing and maybe some light camo work. Are any these at least USABLE or would I be just throwing money away?

>>11846426
Buy a 30 euro aliexpress integrated compressor in the airbrush if you really can't afford anything else and save up for a proper setup if you keep building and painting with it

>>11846433
I might just do that then. Thanks.

>>11846246
I have a pe upgrade kit for my tamiya tirpiz, I've never worked with pe, what I'm in for?

>>11846426
The box compressor works, but it's underpowered and will cause you to struggle at every step and wear itself out. Just spend the 100 bucks on a real compressor and get a 20€ chinesium airbrush. You don't need 300€ for a setup.

>>11846468
Pain
Misery
Pieces that will be glued to your fingers/tools rather than the intended place
0 surface area to glue some pieces
Carpet monster with a vengeance
Absolute refusal for the metal to be bent into the correct shape and/or remain in said shape
Don't have debonder? Tough shit cleaning the excess CA glue

>got a hobby boss t-50 because i think they're neat and hb are the only ones who make them
>kit tracks are apparently not the greatest
>aftermarket metal tracks are upwards of $50, more than the kit itself
very cool

>>11846618
That's pretty normal for aftermarket at this point

I went to a market where people were selling from cars and one guy had model kits. I bought two of them, but I am kind of embarrassed to say what they are.

Anyway, does anyone have some recent acquisitions to share?

>>11846819
You, motherfucker. You share what you got.

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>>11846909
I snapped this last night while it was raining, so the pic is shit, don't say I didn't warn you on the cringe factor. (I'll have a better picture later.)

>>11847022
>Area 88
Uhm, kino?

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The mentally challenger won't be naked for long
And I just have to relearn how to stretch sprues and it will have a mosquito net cope cage

>>11847022
Oo ching-chong Heir Hitrer moders. Very nice!
I honestly can't keep track anymore, but I think I got a bunch of 1/72 armor while drunk off my ass. Internet shopping and alcoholism is a great combo.

>>11847120
>mosquito net cope cage
Why not just use bandage/cheese cloth for the net, because that's literally what it is.

>>11847139
>Why not just use bandage/cheese cloth for the net, because that's literally what it is.
I'm envisioning an african-american rigged cope cage with the hexagonal pattern chicken wire, the mosquito net is very fine, but the other options aren't off the table

>>11847120
Is it gonna be uke or a what if? I can't find any pictures of the cages britain's actually put on vehicles, and nobody ever makes omani armour because their camo is a particularly upsetting brown