kook edition>how do I learn to surf?https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IrwL5_57C6w [Embed] [Open]>How do I pick the right board?Use a volume calculator, and find the right board type for your local break or waves you want to ridehttps://www.jsindustries.com/volume-calculatorhttps://www.boardcave.com/surfboard-volume-calculator>how do I know if the waves are good?go check surfline or magicseaweed for reportsPreviously: >>185762
selfishly i started this thread to ask for board recommendations..I am looking for a fun board in 2-4ft conditions. I have come to the realisation I have too many excuses to go out above that size and should get a board suited to what I actually surf. I was something cruisy, was thinking 6'8ish range that can paddle but also duck dive. I have gone from minimal to a 6'6 but 3" thick beefy board, a 6'8 thinner board (by far my best board rip) and now a 6'4 board closer to a short board (I am 6'3). Where to from here? I don't see myself doing sharp hacks or anything high performance, but maybe some round houses and floaters..
Hola. This is by the way the third surf general, not the second.Also, could you link it to the old?Round houses and floaters are "high-performance" if you want to, depending on your style (long fucking forgotten thing, owing to the sportification of surfing)>2-4 feetWave size or swell size? If wave size, go for a groveller, thick board but short length, to ride the foam. In surfing, physical condition is mostly irrelevant to your mental condition; no matter how well-prepared your body is, there is one factor you need to go over that is inevtable and that is, sitting comfortably out the back and that only comes with doing it often enough.
>>237182Old thread is linked. I missed #1 guess it was a prelude.Idk by swell or surf but say chest to overhead. Anywhere from 2ft - 8ft faces.I can sit out there and am comfy in the surf just bigger days spots I'd be comfy catching waves, so would 200 of my best friends. Smaller days I can go to quieter beachies.Thick but short, how short and thick? Also do you mean to ride the foam as in to get plough through mushy close out sections?Roundhouse as in I do a shitty turn back to the pocket not some powerful stuff and floaters off small end sections I'm not launching a float to flat on an 8 face..
>>237183No, kek, I meant link the old TO the new.
>>237183>ride the foam as in to get plough through mushy close out sections?Exactly Generally, you want a groveller about a foot shorter than your go-to board and thicker than your go-to board. They are especially designed for this, to play in the surf.
Rented a foamie for my next two weeks of vacation.Wish me luck :)
>>237405shred the gnar anon
HOW DO I STOP THE CHAFING (CHEST/TITS)on a foamie if that matters
>>237740hire a dominatrix to toughen up your skin or wear a shirt or rashie
How long are you guys able to surf before becoming too exhausted to pop up? For me it's 3 hours or so
>>238160Depends on conditions and how often I am catching waves. A busy session after 2-3 hrs my arms go and I struggle to paddle. I get a bit autistic with my paddling, small days I still paddle hard for the fitness, hold my breathe between duck dives, always stretching that area before and after surf etc.
>be city with big ass coastline>have exactly two spots that don't close out religiously >both are crowded as fuck 24/7Man Perth fucking sucksmaaaaan Perth fucking sucks
Why do I feel like I'm always in people's wayPaddling out or sitting in the line up, and all of a sudden someone is coming at me riding a wave. I try paddling into the wave to get out of his way but it never seems to be enough, he usually bails or wipes out trying to avoid me. Then I feel bad.Am I doing something wrong or is it their fault? I'm a newfag kook on a foamie btw. Maybe I should stick to the weenie hut junior (broken waves, close to shore) until i git gud? >>239828>aussieHow do you wear your harness to keep from falling into the sky while on a surf board? Like how does that even work?
>>239828Been a winter to watch from the headlands for me..https://youtu.be/2q5_xjnn30w>>239978Because you're probably in their way. But depends how crowded the spot is too. Where would you paddle out and sit in picrel?
>>239981When I first arrive, probably near the group at the top left. But as I tire I'd go center left so I don't have to paddle as much. My cardio sucks
>>239984>disclaimer this is a random screencap so idk what conditions are really likeBut.. based off what you posted, I don't think you should be where the red crosses are. Top left you won't catch anything, will be caught out of position and in peoples way. Other two spots too crowded. I don't think you can read the ocean well enough to be in there. Green left is an option if you can surf insiders, depends on take off. The spot you paddle to second you should start. Catch wide waves and the insiders there. You won't be in anyone's way, will catch far more waves and progress quicker.It's a strange phenomenon that people just paddle out to join the pack. Once you learn to access the line up properly you'll often see better breaks where no one is. All part of learning to read the ocean.
>>239986Thank you
>bent fin How big of a problem is this?Also, daily reminder to always store your surfboard properly
>>240078probably fine, plastic fins are kinda avg so not like you're losing high performance, should still function. Can probably be bent back.>>240013np I enjoy hearing what others think. It always intrigues me seeing how people analyse the line up. Its a crucial skill to git gud at surfing.
>>236948>dude OMG i'm surfing just like the COOL BOOMERS from the 60s!!!!>hey everyone check out my pathetically thin beard, receding hairline, effeminate lack of muscle tone and my epic forehead lines!!!>I-I-IMMMM GOOONAAA SUUUUURRRRRRRRFFFFFFFF
Floridafag here, only been surfing for a month, about to try surfing the hurricane, wish me luck anons
>>240583i hope you're central/north florida and get absolutely barreled my guy - when it doubt grab rail and set the line (remember to look where you want to go)also rememberhttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6spBu2XAk4A
How much more danger of a shark attack am I putting myself in by going out at/just before dawn, as opposed to the afternoon? I live in a shark prone area.
>>240659They feed at dawn and dusk, when the winds are most favorable to surf.
>>240659You're more likely to die in a car crash on the way to the beach. Don't even think about them.
>>240583Update: couldn't even paddle out to the breaks, kept getting swept back, got so exhausted I couldn't even pop up properly on the broken white waves (which also kept wiping me out even at waist deep water).fuck
>>240865no one said it was easy mate
>>240865based and have a crack pilled
Can any of you guys surf decently? Erin swell will be hitting Europe this week
>>240964I am ok but I am also not paddling out into 20ft swells
anybody in north florida
>>240666what about in the middle of the night
>>237740
>>237740forgot to include my message. Wear a rashie and rub Vaseline all of your chest it makes a big difference also keep surfs shorter than 90 mins
>>241153Space coast here
>>241339damn, I'm in Duval
>>241343Sorry to hear that
>>241344"good" surf here is 1" swells, lol
>>241345Trust me it's the same throughout the entire state manI feel lied to, I didn't grow up surfing but surfing was everywhere so I assumed Florida must be good for surfing. Then I actually got into surfing and realized that was total BS.I'm amazed kelly slater was as good as he is, considering maybe 5% of days out of the year are even possible on a shorter board
>>241346Sebastian is the only place with waves above waist height, ain't it?
>>241347Consistently? More or less yeah, but because of this fact the jetty is super packed and probably very localized. I wouldn't really know, I haven't been there myself yetAre there any good spots up north where you are at anon?
>>241377in Jax specifically? really just Pillars, in Hanna Park. even then, it's just 2-3 foot, and only during hurricane season when it's too cold to really enjoy. maybe during a hurricane you might get 5-7ft.
>>241379>5-7ftit's either 4 ft, 4-6ft, 6ft or 6-8ft
>>241400I'm not using official notation, I'm giving a more direct estimate.
>>241400>it's either 4 ft, 4-6ft, 6ft or 6-8ftFlorida sucks don't come here, and we don't need anymore people in the lineup.
shorter waves = longer boards, right? so, for waves around 2', would a 7 or 8 foot board be better
>>241456no you are wrong but lets okay lets take a second to dissect why.1. you might want more volume but it depends on the steepness of the wave2. you referred to "longer boards" and then suggested something in the reddit sizing zone (beyond 5ft 8) this was silly 3. You didn't discuss using soft tops. With continued practice you can not post gay shit like above :D
>>241481Duke was a better surfer than you and he never rode anything shorter than maybe 10'
>>241518Could the duke even do a cutback?
>>241532he could do it on a 150lb solid paulownia board, at Waimeia.
>>237740Toughen them nips up until they're scabbed and peeling after. Ask me how I know lmao. Or rash guard like others have suggested.Btw, check out https://YouTube.com/@shakashreds
Whoa, whoa guys, slow down!! I can't keep track of the thread, I am not used to it having these many replies this close to its OP birthday!
>>240666>They feed at dawn and duskhttps://m.youtube.com/watch?v=8NjUX8HZIFQ&pp=ygUSYXQgZGF3biB0aGV5IHNsZWVw
>be me, yesterday>go to sebastian inlet>waves were gay, breaking on the beach, oh well>far in the distance, see some big whitewater waves, breaking on what must be a reef or sandbar then traveling for a solid minute before hitting the beachOne of these days, when the wind is moving south/south west, I am going to take my longboard allllll the way out there and alllll the way back and it will be truly epic. Although maybe I should hire a jetski to get me out there so my shoulders don't fall off.
There was a shark attack at my local yesterday. took the guys life. Pretty tragic, was always considered a bit of a sharkey break but I'd never seen one in 20+ years.
Where is a good place to go to learn to surf? I live in a landlocked zone, and plan to travel to learn to surf in the coming spring (post snowboard season) looking for somewhere that is cost effective to spend a month or two learning to surf.
>>242135What region of the world are you looking at?Aus can be done cheap. Asian islands are cheap. South America spots can be cheap. Depends how much it costs you to get there etc.
>>242013he died doing what he loved>>242135>>242196 this
how long do you guys surf for? When I was younger I was able to be out for a couple hours now that Im a oldfag (34) I am completely gaped after spending 2 hours in the water. Has anyone here had something similar and improved their fitness?
>>242395Depends how many waves I am catching. I can burn out in 1 hour or sit around for 3.
>>242395I'm 22, in okay(ish) shape and I'm pretty much gassed out by the 3 hour mark.Are you in good shape? Hitting the gym/pool (or, even better, surfing) consistently + good diet will probably improve your stamina quite a bit.
