Recently found out that if the skin on your fingers grows thicker, it sweats less (until it wears back down again). I started using some hand serum that supposedly makes your skin grow faster, and after a week it seems to be doing something, just barely.

>>258766
Wanted to follow up. Why every ten days? Any reason or just vibes? My routine is every two weeks, but in April I want to do twice a week, Mondays and Fridays. Yesterday I did 3 sets of 5 seconds, Friday I will do 4 sets of 5 seconds, then Monday I'll do 5 sets of 5 seconds. After that, I'll up the weight, between 1-2kg. Thoughts?

What's your routine like? how many sets on 20mm? 15mm? Do you train three finger drag or just half crimp? Since my last post, my max hang went up by 2.5kg, and it's been quite the fight.

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Trying out the hangboard meme.
I'm still certain board climbing is superior in every way but maybe it's a useful addition

it's been well established that climbing is dominated by white people and asians, but what are the ethnic groups which climb the least, and why?

>>259528
ROC reporting in. (Rockclimber of Color) ;)

I think it has a lot to do with cultural norms. The black community has a category for activities that seem absurd and which most blacks don't participate in. Most. These activities are referred to in jest as 'white people shit'. Rock climbing is standard WPS.

Other examples include sky diving, drawing penises on unconscious drunks, Steve Irwin type shit, and Jackass/masochist sorts of activities just to name a few.

I live in Chicago where we have a very large black community and the climbing scene remains 95% or more non-blacks. A lot of it has to do with simple exposure to the sport in an inviting way (which can be difficult for climbing since it's so painful/difficult at first).

Just keep climbing and inviting new people to check out the sport. It's been a white dominated sport since its conception, so a bit more waiting for inclusion and diversity won't hurt.

I've a dream to open up a climbing gym on the south side. Wish me luck.

>>259515
Board climbing is good if you're already strong. If you're not already strong, hangboarding is a great way to get strong. I know lots of people that deadass can't even do V5 on kilterboard unless it's like a 35 degree angle, let alone a moonboard.

Usually its pro-climbers, and asshats doing this for 5-10+ years who're like, "bro just climb to get better at climbing", but those guys forget what it's like to be weak, and forget they didn't always have a board near them to train. So they reap the benefits of a training board without recognizing that they already passed the threshold to make it useful.

A proper analogy would be training for weightlifting. For the intermediate-advanced trainee, high volume programs are amazing for getting you strong. But for beginners? They're better off doing splits that have you train 3-4 days a week. In much the same way you don't give buckaroo billy the Arnold 7 day split program with 3 hour workouts each day, I don't expect the average novice to low-intermediate climber to thrive on a board that they are not physically strong enough to benefit from.

>>259515
>>259557
V4-V5 plateaucel here
I've never tried hangboarding, what actually is it? How do I do it? So far I've just been.. well, climbing. Trying new stuff when I can but mostly perfecting routes I can already do. How do I incorporate hangboarding/get stronger?

>>259558
>I've never tried hangboarding, what actually is it?
Training your fingers to get used to hanging on small edges.

>How do I do it?
Rant incoming, short answer is - look up a protocol, overload it over time, take it slowly.

For background, have at least 1 year climbing experience. There's a million god damn protocols. Also, most of them are unfortunately found on YouTube and reddit, in communities that have no fucking clue how to program exercises properly. You'll find many "regimens", but none of them prescribe anything beyond a basic template of how a workout should be performed. Max hangs, repeaters (3-57 ladders, or 7 on, 3 off for 5 reps), small edge hangboarding, blah. Most people don't talk about how often to do it, when to backoff, etc. Training books sometimes cover it, but climbers aren't known for reading.

Basically, just find a 20mm edge and aim to hang off it with bodyweight. If you can do that, add weight. Max hangs with 5-7 second increments work fine. Just look up random protocls and see what people do. Increase weight slowly over time, like really slowly. Every 3rd hangboard session basically. (at least that's what I do)

>Trying new stuff when I can but mostly perfecting routes I can already do.
That's fine. It's normal for progress to slow down. You can keep climbing to get strong. Nothing wrong with that. Hangboard is a supplement, not the main driver.

>How do I incorporate hangboarding/get stronger?
Just ask other anons. I didn't start hangboarding until 4 years into climbing. I was already getting through my plateau, but it made it much easier to consistently not plateau.

I've accepted that I'll never be able to climb due to injuries so I treat it like a spectator sport. Hopefully there's a gym near me where I can just chill and cheer people on without being expected to actually climb myself. Bouldering is my jam, not too interested in watching people do lead but I understand all of it takes some variant of skills and physique.

world climbing asia championship

https://www.youtube.com/live/JhXONbTNJWE

my goat ai mori btfos the competition.
also some of the japanese climbers are cute :)

I'm starting to become such a simp for Maddie Richardson. I hope she'll make it to the podiums this year.

>>259591
Do these ever have EN commentary alternatives?
I know a bit of Japanese (enough to be fine watching JMSCA) but no Chinese at all

>>259591
Damn, Ai Mori dominating HARD
Also Mandala best shoes confirmed

>>259591
https://www.youtube.com/live/PgyStgBLEXc

ai also won the lead finals.
she's the only one to top the route btw.

>>259569
I wish you the best anon, by all means go watch
my personal struggle is that I love watching other people climbing when resting between attempts but I'm always worried that women will think I'm staring at them in a creepy way vs just enjoying watching people climb. If you have a fat ass I'm looking at it though

tfw injured my wrist
it's over

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>is based in your path

>>259658
I found out there's no gyms in my area at all - the nearest one that offers anything resembling a wall is more than 25km west. Kind of a shame.
I have IFSC youtube and the quality is very all over the place. Every new event either has nonstop praise for the camera/commentary or just burying it for how bad it is. Like they just ask a random person at each event to coordinate it for them instead of a dedicated editing crew.

>>259658
It's impressive to watch better climbers climb. I hope everyone in the gym agrees and understand.
Just trying to understand how they climb is a big thing.
Whenever it feels like people are watching my beginner ass I get self conscious though.

>>259721
>Whenever it feels like people are watching my beginner ass I get self conscious though.
I used to be like this but now I do stuff that's steezy enough that I enjoy an audience

What is the reason why certain boulder climbers will opt to not bring a chalk bag with them? Sometimes the commentators will point out that they're losing grip and trying to get some from the back of their pants but have no way to reinforce it.

>>259846
asians claim they don't sweat so they don't need chalk, which completely misses the point of what chalk is for

>>260116
I don't believe it's about that, because
>they still sweat, they just have less apocrine sweat glands
>some athletes are specifically more sweaty than others (Miho)
but most importantly
Tthe times I heard this, it was white/euro athletes being discussed by commentary who pointed out the bag was left on the mats before the attempts. I wondered if they didn't like that it swung loose behind them and acted as an extra source of gravity.

>>260131
But, realizing now that I typed it, the thing can't be more than a pound by itself. There's something to this preference, and I might have to ask around.

People who say technique is what's holding me back on moonboard are so full of shit. I start a hangboarding routine, and immediately send my project within 3 weeks. Cruxes feel so much easier, I'm not pumping myself out on each and every single move. Can't believe I got baited into thinking that tension alone would've made me a V8 climber.

Technique/tension still massively important though, but it's insane how much a simple 7lb increase in max-hanging made those crimps feel.

I've tried to get a few women into cloombing but they all went a couple of times and then stopped. I wasn't acting like a betaspraying sperg either, just let them climb for fun and helped if they asked for it.
Is climbing male-coded?

>>260156
It's hard to find the type of girl actually interested in physical activity. You have to have a very specific, autism-geared mind to enjoy it. Most girls, especially the most beautiful ones, loathe exercise in any and all forms.

Not a single girl I've dated has fallen in love with climbing. Closest I've found was a girl into powerlifting, but climbing "interfered with recovery..." so yeah. Wishing you luck anon. Maybe you can be the lottery winner.

>climbing partner moves
>go to the gym’s partner finder board and notice they added a column for pronouns
>text the only one who didn’t list his pronouns
>he’s been the most reliable climbing partner I’ve ever had
Maybe I’ll change my mind about tranny behavior if it helps sort out the freaks this easily

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>>260161
More on this, I'm talking to a girl right now and she wants to avoid gaining ANY muscle whatsoever. Afraid to do squats even, just to warm up. It's crazy.

Why do these fuckers have so many youtube channels
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mAGheuYrXSU

Also give me some stuff that's not as big brand with sponsors everywhere

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>see guy working at my usual gym at another gym
>"you haven't been climbing for 4 days in a row have you? if you did i'd be worried"

>>260156
women and climbing is an interesting one to me. My climbing centre is about 2/3 male/female, and the better looking girls all seem to come almost exclusively as part of one-off groups and aren't particularly good. I just find it odd that there seems to be an inverse correlation between how dedicated a girl gets with climbing and how good looking she is.

>>260272
My experience is the better girls is the hotter she is as well. This trend continue until 7B where suddenly there is a massive drop off and she is a dude in yoga pants.
Those 7A hotties tho...

Bros I think I fucked up and got an TFCC injury, how do I reduce the pain and get the strength back? I have a comp on Saturday.

>>260318
walk it off

>>260318
same I got a TFCC injury 3 weeks ago and it still hurts, it's over, I put my climbing gym membership on hold for two months

>>260318
>>260343
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WqgP7DD-wEg
Look up rehab exercises, do them religiously. Cuts 3 weeks off of expected healing time. Massage the area whenever possible. Hot water baths for your hands once a day.

>>260363
yeah I found this video and the one by hooper's beta, the exercises seem to help. I wonder if this is going to be one of those injuries that gets to a point where it's healed but you have to retrain your nervous system to get back your full range of motion.

>>260397
Hooper made a good video about how pain =/= injury, and that oversensitivity can develop, so that wouldn't surprise me.

>>260156
I've seen some girls come in to the climbing gym but after they catch me staring at them they never come back.

>>260220
Kai Whaley
Tension Climbing
Wedge Climbing

>>260272
It's opposite at my gym. The hotter ones are really good, there is this one zoomer girl, super hot, climbs like v11. All the dumpy ones are just ok at best

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Last year I posted a kind of live blog while attempting to rope solo Rooster Rock. That was on the /out/ climbing general which is dead now (rip). I had to bail after the first pitch when my twine lanyard disintegrated.

Now I'm back to try it again, with a proper lanyard this time. First up is this lovely approach along the side of the freeway.

>not your personal blog
You will just have to bear it. I believe in you.

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Anchor installed. This is how a bowline is supposed to look, right? I'm relying on you for the buddy check.

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Ready to climb I guess. Climber's strand goes to the tree anchor; brake strand goes through the microtrax and then down into a big pile. The trax is to prevent rope drag and hopefully ensure that the grigri locks in a fall.

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I brought rubber bands this time to trap the rope so the weight of it doesn't pull slack through the grigri. First pitch is climbed and now I gotta clean and reclimb.

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The weather could not be better. Climbing is so damn fun bros. Just me, open air, and the bullshit 4chan captcha.

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Here's the TRS setup, if anyone is curious. Trax looks kinda weird pressing up against the grigri like that but I can't think of any reason why it would be a problem.

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Starting up p2. This is a trad pitch, but the climbing is even easier. There's a traverse at the top so I'll have to do some kind of redirect while cleaning.

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And I'm up. Gorgeous view. Somehow there's a serviceberry bush up here with butterflies on it. I can see an osprey nest below me by the river. And these turkey vultures floating around. Maybe they saw my LRS setup and decided to stay close.

Anyway at this point I would love to rap/clean and be done with it but because of the traverse I'll have to rap, refix, clean, reclimb, and then rap again.

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And I'm back on the ground. After my first rappel I realized with some alarm that my rope was only just long enough after the refix. I usually bring a 60m for this route but fortunately I had an 80m today. I should have realized when I fixed the rope at the summit right on the middle mark. I didn't bother to pull the rope so it's just good luck that I decided to knot the end of the slack line. As if anyone needed another reminder.

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Back to the car now. Overall a great day out. The system worked surprisingly well after all the trouble I've had in the past. The springiness of my bungie neck loop really helped to prevent the grigri from locking while on lead, I think, and it fed smoothly the entire time. Although this setup >>260795 was indeed scuffed as the microtrax would lock before the grigri and put stress on the sheath and make it impossible to lower. The point of this climb was to familiarize myself with multipitch LRS climbing in advance of some international travel so I can climb there even if I can't find a partner. It took 3.5hr car to car, which is only a bit longer than it takes me with a partner.

When I see a westerner post an indoor boulder video, it's usually got really soft grading. Why is that?
t. Slav

>>260814
How many pitches is that? And would you do this on a hard route you might actually have some falls on?

>>260858
This was only two pitches. I would not climb a hard route with this system because I have never tested it in a lead fall (although I'm confident that it would work). For those routes I prefer to climb something adjacent and set up a top-rope solo. I hate falling in general and usually stick to easy multipitch, which for me is the best of both worlds.

For now my focus is on speed improvements and learning how to deal with outlier scenarios so that I can climb longer routes. For instance I need to have a plan for what to do when passing or being passed by other parties.

>>260857
Afaik it's mostly North American and Australian gyms.
East Asian gyms are hardcore and European ones are kinda inbetween

>>260874
East asian gyms aren't hardcore, they just have a different grading system entirely, one that emphasizes mastery. A japanese "V2" at B-Pump Ogikubo is not actually a V2 in any real sense that a westerner would say it is, so calling it sandbagged isn't right.

If you go to a gym whose sets are on par with moonboard grades, I'd say you're in a good place. For me, my home hym grades moonboard - 2. So a V6 at my gym is like a V4 moonboard. When I travel up-state and go to my friend's gym, they grade on par, so a V4 is actually as hard as a V4 on moonboard, so pretty damn challenging (unlike regular gyms where V4s and V5s can be flashed).

One gym in the city I live by grades soft as hell. V6s can be flashed. But ultimately, you can do progressive overload anywhere. Just use board climbs to standardize shit.
>Fuck gyms that grade with ranges. fuck them to death

>take year off from watching world cups
>come back
>oriane has tattoos
>most of the girls are wearing loose shorts now
>production is still abysmal
fuck this i'm out. it's ruined.

why do 18 year old female climbers look 30

>janja is washed now
grim

>>260977
>fucks up
>still gets silver
>meanwhile orianne

>>260982
all my climfus are washed now it seems
>miho
>orianne
>hannah meul

If you climb the kilter jug board at anything other than 50 degrees or more onerous, then you should be banned from all climbing gyms in the nation. Nothing was funnier than going into the old app and reading the comments of some dyel calling a particular boulder hard and seeing they climbed it at 35 degrees

>>260960
>loose
Everyone is just getting on the Mellow baggy aesthetic. You see gumbys in the gym dressing like dudes in a Mellow video struggling to do a V3. Everyone is either dressing in rolled-up JNCO jeans and a beanie or looks like they just walked out of REI

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>>260985
>Be you
>See Chad climb V9, call it hard for the grade
>His history lists multiple V10 and V11 sends
>Sees angle
>"heh... what a fucking DYEL LOSER BITCH"
>Meanwhile you're still stuck on V4 at 45 degrees
>thinking to yourself
>"HEH, at least I'm not a DISGRACE"
>Chad is happy.
>You are not.
Ask me how I know you're miserable.

>>260984
>hannah meul
lmao red-s took that bitch

>>260989
>45
Are you illiterate?

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>he wears climbing shoes in 2026
unc

>Are you illiterate?
Typo. Besides. I can't believe anon climbs anything respectable at 50 degrees. He probably tried (and failed) a V2 at 50 deg then went back to his v4 proj at a smol angle. Nobody talks like this. Literally nobody.
>You should be banned from climbing gyms because you don't [CLIMB 50 DEGREES ON A SINGLE TRAINING BOARD]
Okay chum. Carry on seething.

City Bloc, Leeds is unironically the best climbing gym in the world

the kind of place where strength is respected
you'll be doing your 20mm max hangs and Hamish and Max will be nearby chilling
I can't think of a place that celebrates climbing strength more than city Bloc

Bwos just flashed my first outdoor boulder and it was allegedly V6? Is Australia super soft cause no one ever comes down here?

rather, I can't think of a climbing gym in the world that accommodates climbing strength more than city bloc does

I think indoor slab climbing should probably be made illegal desu
if I was Prime minister I would probably outright ban it over night,.along with padel

climbing gym sen in donedon has the right idea because the only slab they have is some cynical, half-arsed warm up area

Why is "flashing" such a big deal in the climbing world?
Why does it matter how many times you tried? Either you did it or not.
I heard a gym in a gym saying he is not feeling 100% so he is saving his flash attempt, which for me is crazy.
You are literally a meter away, just try it.
Why is this "flash attempt" living rent free in their heads?
You are not Adam Ondra, you are not flashing 8C, you are average dude "flashing" 6A.

>>261070
Because the origins of climbing are about moving in a mountainous terrain, and 'not flashing' something meant dying.
In the context of sport climbing, it also prevents the sport from becoming pure acrobatics where you just drill a bunch of moves to impress the audience.

Just remembered there was a climbing girls thread on /s/ a while ago and I didn’t save any pics :(

>>261070
>You are not Adam Ondra, you are not flashing 8C,
Hot take (and I'm surprised nobody's said this) but I don't believe Adam Ondra has actually flashed half the number of boulders he claims to. When we examine his stats and compare them to other professional climbers who are outcompeting him (of which there are many, Adam is far from his physical peak) the number of boulders he has flashed is more than 5x anyone else's. Which is kind of suspicious. He's not that physically gifted compared to everyone else.

Moreover, how do we know he truly flashed anything? Because he records a video of him sending a video and is personally saying he is? Like professional climbers have never exaggerated or lied about their achievements? All we know is
>He is a professional athlete with a legacy he wants to cement as the best
>At the highest level, this sport is built on trust, something athletes exploit all the time (Lance Armstrong anyone?)
>Giving him every motivation in the world to lie to maintain that
>His climbs look ridiculously choreographed
>His videos are literally film productions, trying to tell stories rather than just showing the damn climb from bottom to top from a clear angle
>His raw physical stats just aren't the best anymore. He literally hasn't won Gold in recent championships in years, and sometimes he doesn't even platform. According to Google's AI overview, he is effectively retired
>Yet we're to believe he actually still outperforms everyone else and is "flashing" the world's most difficult boulders?
Yeah I'm not buying it.

>>261074
he looks like a jew so he' definitely lying
we just don't know the extent

>>261077
He's Czech so Jew-ish by default. Not that there's anything wrong with being a Jew.
t. Czech

>>261074
There is zero evidence to support your conspiratorial musings. Ondra is undisputably one of the best climbers alive and he takes flashing more seriously than anyone. Have you seen his Lexicon flash where he sits on a rope and inspects every hold on the route before his first attempt? Nobody else is doing that shit. Ondra has been flashing hard routes for decades.

Had a great time at the gym trying to send a huge dyno when I noticed a famous actress from my country, who also goes to my gym, was watching me and telling me I was so close. So I locked in hard and sent it in the next try. She got super hyped, and honestly, that felt so good man she’s super cute.

How much do you care about proper ratings at the gym? Mine here only sets vague colors. Have only been at two others, one did the same but seemed like everything way much harder. While one tried to give v grades.
Personally I don't really care. Having spoken with the staff about route setting. It seems they want to be vague to drive people to not get stuck in the mindset of "ooh I can only climb yellow, I could never climb red that's too hard."

So there are blues (2/6) which are harder than yellows (3/6) at times. But also the opposite where yellows are much easier than expected. That said, I did my first red route recently which is one above yellow. Which was cool. But only because I was egged on and that was a mistake. Had to take a week off because holy shit my hands and fingers hurt after crimping above my ability.

>>261120
I don't care. Indoor grades are irrelevant. And if they set using outdoor grades then they would have to use awkward labels like V0- VB VB- VEasy or something to properly describe the easy builders.

Routes should be accurately graded though.

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>>261107
>There is zero evidence to support your conspiratorial musings.
Like there's going to be a scientific study on this shit? I know how high level athletics work, and if you think athletes don't cheat or have no incentive to cheat, then you're naive. Adam is gifted, a legend surely. But the idea that he flashed as many boulders as he claims to is questionable.
>Nobody else is doing that shit.
Where's your evidence? Yeah see how that logic doesn't fly?

>>261135
Nobody else is spending as much time and effort as Ondra is trying to flash boulders is what I meant by that. Ondra will visit an area specifically to flash boulders, meet up with people who have previously climbed those boulders, feel all the holds, and tape a fan to the crux before he ever pulls on. Nobody else is doing that like he does. So it makes sense that he would have far more flashes.

>>261136
At least that's a fairer argument than what other people have said.

>>261120
Most gyms I go to either use colour grading or straight up tags like easy, not so easy, medium etc. Some of them include a chart that makes a loose comparison to font grades.
I don't really care because I'll figure out what's what after I get up on a couple of boulders anyway.

I can finally do muscle-ups

>>261147
I've heard it's possible if you can do 10 pullups but I've never been able to make it work

>read about how to do overhangs
>straight arms, tension, drop knees, heel hooks, all makes sense
>go climb
>can't make it work whatsoever
Wat do? Do I just keep throwing myself at the wall until I figure it out? The worst thing is that I wreck my arms way quicker on overhangs so my sessions get cut short.

>>261150
10 pull-ups is borderline desu
if you can do 5 pull-ups with half your bodyweight added, then you are definitely strong enough to do muscle-ups

>>261152
are you fat?

>>261152
>Wat do?
1. Start moonboarding.
2. Fail the first few weeks.
3. Manage to get the easiest benchmark done.
4. Suddenly one after another gets done.
5. Stronk!

I need to moonboard more, isn't one in my city though unfortunately

>>261154
Nah. Mid healthy bmi, can do 12 pull ups.
>>261157
I'll try that.

i can do 24 pull-ups, sixth set, in a jumper, on a thick bar

>>261160
5’5 activities

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>>261115
Took a pic with her after, her name is Clara Galle

>>261152
Rest more between attempts and think harder about how you want to do the climb before pulling on so you get better quality attempts. Ultimately it does just take more energy to climb on overhangs but putting in the reps is how you get stronger.

>>260220
Wheel Rock

>>261152
>>261157
here's my question
is just repeatedly practising overhang attempts (am at V5 level) an effective way of getting better at overhang, or do I have to go moonboarding/hangboarding?

>>261115
>>261176
nice, and she's pretty hot. did you try to get her number?

>>261209
No i don’t really have the balls to approach a celeb like that but i chatted with her for a while and now she says hi when we see each other at the gym so maybe one day

>>261212
I'm not some goonerbrain who thinks any and every woman who speaks to you is automatically trying to fuck you, and if you're happy just being acquaintances sure, but if you fancy her I would strongly recommend trying to hang out with her outside the gym. Not as a date, just offer to invite her to drinks with your friends or some platonic shit like that. you never know...

>>261213
Good advice, thank you brother

New Colin Haley kino: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Fxltm25tgdQ

>>261208
I'd imagine your problem is endurance rather than strength so train with that in mind. I'd do circuits or repeats rather than board climbs.

Is it a bad idea to stop climbing over the summer and do something else instead(regular gym for example).
It's already uncomfortably hot and no amount of mag dust will fix this.

>>261277
That's the worst idea I've ever heard. Why would you even consider this? It's better for you to kill yourself than stop cloombing

>>261277
Sounds like a great idea. Would rather stop climbing entirely than climb the kilter jug board at 35 degrees

>>261399
You probably haven't even sent a single moonboard problem. Nobody is impressed with your 60 degree Kilter V1.

up to +53.75kg 20mm max hang
the hangboard at my local climbing place has 'max load-60kg' written on it
does that mean I will have to stop doing 20mm max hang soon at that climbing place, and smaller edges/one hand only?
that is gay

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>See a new, beefy meathead failing to climb the easiest of problems
>Give him his chance but don't want to cut in line or one up him/give the beta
>See him finishing the session doing weighted pullups
Genuinely an eye opening experience. I can't do a pull up. But I can still climb, pinch, crimp and whatever more than he could. Based on the boulders he could barely start. I wish you the best of climbing muscleman.

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>>261547
>be you
>Scrawny dyel, so focused on others in the gym that he can't focus
>Sees chad
>Envy's chad
>Chad does his best, then mogs you with weights you could never dream of
>Chad goes home to his girlfriend, and later hangs out with his friends for the evening
>You sit alone
You post like some of the faggots on /b/. Typing shit like,
>Give him his chance but don't want to cut in line
had me dying LMFAO, but what? didn't want to approach him? So insecure that you're fixated on this one dude, and wanna show him up or some shit? Focus on your own V2s man. At the end of the day, he's happier than you.

is the loli not participating in lead?

I hate to do it but I can't help it I'm gonna green text about stupid gym behavior and you are just gonna have to call me a faggot later
>belaying my dad on a lead route which is close to his limit
>some guy walks up and starts up an autobelay that's immediately adjacent
>by immediately adjacent I mean this route literally overlaps the route that my dad is on
>as soon as I realize what he's doing I shout at him that he's in the fall zone
>no response; he has headphones in
>I yell at my dad to take instead of falling
>he sees the guy and immediately takes and waits for him
>the guy is climbing very slowly and finally reaches the top of the route
>pauses for a moment
>starts to slowly downclimb
>he finally reaches the ground and my dad gets ready to resume climbing
>retard starts back up the route
>this time he can't ignore me when I yell at him not to climb under someone leading and that he could get hit if my climber falls
>"nah I think it's fine"
>resumes climbing
>dad just tells me to lower him and we leave

I usually try to mind my own business but I couldn't believe my eyes with this guy. He was very clearly in danger of getting hit in a fall and didn't give a fuck. Not only that but he could see we were waiting for him and he just kept climbing laps. Psychotic behavior.

>>261547
completely reasonable post and somewhat relatable, I'm not as weak as you that I can't do a pullup but I've definitely had that reflection of "I'm weaker than this person at X but stronger at climbing".
>>261555
unhinged polbrain, fuck right off

>>261572
you and your dad should've chewed him out more. I also wouldn't normally condone being a snitch because it's pussy behaviour but in this instance you would've been entirely justified in pointing him out to staff members because if he's acting like that with you guys, he's acting like that with others, and one day if he doesn't get checked he's gonna cause a serious fucking accident.

>>260977
she lost again in lead at wujiang
https://youtu.be/xBcpaB8lq44

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>>261581
>completely reasonable post and somewhat relatable
Okay faggot. Enjoy being a seething dyel.

>>261547
Didnt know it was possible to climb when you cant do a pull up. Kindof impressive

>>261589
she's just an old hag now, she should retire while she's ahead
annie is the new teen queen

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>>261590
>see a completely non-confrontational post making a reasonable observation that bulkier people tend to be stronger than skinnier people but worse at climbing
>start wigging out and throwing around buzzwords like some deranged fatass
you reek of insecurity mate, put the fork down

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>>261648
>Sees a post discriminating against a random guy
>Who nobody cared about
>for being a meathead
>And not "le climbing" as hard as him
>post literally ends with the exact words
>"But I can still climb, pinch, crimp and whatever more than he could"
>Thinks that doesn't reek of insecurity
Okay guy.
>reasonable observation that bulkier people tend to be stronger than skinnier people but worse at climbing"
I'd agree with that. but he said meathead i.e. jacked guy, i.e. dudes with muscles. Not bulky like fat. Some "meatheads" in my gym campus V7s on moonboard". Most thin guys at my gym can't.

Time to get this thread back on fucking topic.
>>261433
Goated. how long was it for? Routine? I'm approaching 20kg for 5 second hangs, I think I can do 25kg for 7 seconds if I take a fuck ton of caffeine.

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i went free soloing for the first time today it was pretty fun, not as scary as i imagined but it was a very easy route, maybe i will try a multipitch one day but i think i will just stick to bouldering for solo climbing
unfortunately i didnt fall

>>261652
the post ends with the words "I wish you the best of climbing muscleman". It's clearly in good faith. Moreover if you think referring to someone as a beefy meathead on 4chan of all places is "discriminating" you should strive to be thicker skinned
>Some "meatheads" in my gym campus V7s on moonboard". Most thin guys at my gym can't.
it is delusional to pretend that the best climbers tend to be on the buffer end of ottermode. I'm not trying to defend people who are super fucking skinny and don't have any strength but if you're climbing you will be better with a leaner build generally speaking. Obviously some bulkier guys can still outclimb some skinny guys but that's not the trend I personally see once you're not dealing with random beginners

>>261669
how high was the climb? was there any overhang or was it mostly slab? I can't imagine ever trying to free solo anything which isn't pure slab

>>260985
Anon desunay, I just sent a V8 on 40 degrees senpai, is that g-g-g-oood?

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>>261674
I don't know what that faggot thinks but I think you are doing good. Congrats anon

>>261674
Better than 35! Keep up the good work.
>>261697
Cry, Rabbi

>>261674
It's great work man!
Try it at 45 degrees next, will probably give you a slap at first but you can do it.

nothing more reddit than a bunch of redditors crowded around a newly set slab wall

>>261658
>Goated. how long was it for?
well I have just moved up to it, so only like two seconds, when I can do between 5 and 7 will move up by another 2.5kg.

>Routine?

I do 20mm max hang five times, then 15mm max hang twice with about 75%(no shit) of the weight. mentioned it before, but the only thing that broke like an 8 month 20mm max hang plateu for me, was adding the 15mm max hang afterwards and actively adding weight at 3 seconds (don't try if injury prone)


I think my finger strength kind of sucks genetically so I've put a lot of work into improving it

>>261547
I was terribly drunk when I wrote this late on saturday. Didn't even remember posting until I read and recognized it.
>>261581
I think this anon got the point I was trying to make. Because I was always weaker at everything than everyone. So seeing your typical gymbro not be able to do a physical activity I can. Is wild, unexpected and proof of progress.

As for pullups while climbing. Bros, your legs?

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as well as the meme hangs btw I can also do a +65kg chin-up
reckon I'm literally the strongest person in the world that can't climb a 7a in Sheffield
never been a particularly graceful mover

actually I suppose I can in a commercial place

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>>261715
don't worry anon, I understood you perfectly. I understand also, or at least hope, that there was no malice in your post, but that you were just making an honest observation. Part of what got me into climbing seriously was that I was always a skinny fucker growing up, and I realised that I was never going to become huge and wide without either doing steroids or eating an inordinate amount of food. So I decided to pursue excellence and fitness in a way which suited my narrower frame, which climbing suited perfectly. I'm still on the leaner side now but I'm jacked, and I'm happy with that. I'll never have a bodybuilder type build but that's okay because that isn't what my body and bone structure was meant for, and inversely I have nothing but admiration for guys whose form of excellence is that kind of body. My point is, it doesn't matter what kind of /fit/ you are so long as you pursue excellence in what you are good at.

For me it's repeatedly failing on boulders that are a grade above my skills for two hours before leaving without finishing a single boulder.

>>261747
I used to do this but on lead with a friend who projected a grade above me. I was trying whatever he was projecting with him and that's when I improved the most. You should get a friend to do this with you. You'll probably push each other further a bit faster.

>>261712
>slab wall
the physically weakest climbers I know absolutely destroy slabs but can't get their ass from the ground on overhangs.
is there even anyone who likes slab and overhangs?

would this thread be a good place to show videos of me climbing so I can ask for advice on how to improve my form? or would that be gay and retarded. I get decent advice from climbers in my gym but I'd genuinely be curious to see what some of the more experienced anons here have to say

>>261791
I like every type of climbing except for offwidth and ringlocks

>>261792
>would this thread be a good place to show videos of me climbin
>or would that be gay and retarded
both tbqh

Training board is so fun. Can’t go back to my gym’s setting unless I do the occasional lead route.

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>get really bad blister just below the base of my left middle finger
>fucks with me for a week and makes pretty much every climb hell
>heals after a few days
>the same day it's healed, instantly develop a blood blister on my left ring finger
>it pops while I'm climbing on my fuckass project
>I can now no longer do my project without excruciating pain
Is there a god of climbing? does he do this just to fuck with us?

>>261717
>reckon I'm literally the strongest person in the world that can't climb a 7a in Sheffield
desu I can climb 7a now, just very rarely

>>261827
I'm kind of the same right now. I only want to kilter/moonboard. Wish my gym would get a tensionboard...

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the future of gym climbing

>>261885
Cheaper to maintain and staff, could probably be 24/7 as well.

>>261886
That adjustable spraywall looks amazing

>>261885
So like a creepy old boxing gym but with vegan food,

>>261938
No. Instead of trans flags, we'll have gun accessories. Instead of Yoga, we'll have conceal-carry instructors. Instead of queer inclusion nights, we'll have self defense practice and time at the shooting range. We need to fund conservative gyms.

>>261946
impossible to know if this is satire

>>261885
Every dirtbag climber I have ever met who goes to these types of gyms (I frequent one) are basically chuds and chuddets (until you don’t share their environmental policies). I have never met a single troon at these place because they’re too weak to even climb anything that’s not a kilter

>>261961
we get (what I assume are) troons rocking up every now and again at my gym but they're almost always appallingly weak and seem to give up very quickly

>first finger injury in 2 years
>okay.jpg
>I'll just campus on jugs on my spray wall to work on pulling strength while finger recovers :)
>first shoulder injury in 9 years of climbing
>okay.jpg

Fug

>>261555
lol, I'm kinda with you on this. That post gave me reddit vibes.
I mean, any climber that is past even the most beginner of stages would know that climbing is pretty specific in it's physical requirements and very little transfer to and from other areas of athleticism. Also weight being a factor is kind of a no-brainer. So it wouldn't be surprising to see a meathead that sucks at climbing.
So either they aren't that good themselves yet feel comfortable sounding off about another beginner. Or they are aware of the above and is kind of being self-congratulatory about being better than someone at something they are better at.

Normally I would not engage in thread drama that I have no part in. But recently I had some weird interactions in my local gyms that kinda rubbed me the wrong way and gave me the same vibes.

>>261956
>impossible to know if this is satire
I'd say the same thing. Only that the inverse is already true - Climbing gyms are host to a bunch of trans flags, LGBTQ flags, signage that indicates, "YOU BELONG HERE", invitations for "women's only nights." etc. It's the most pandering thing on this planet. It just begs the question - why climbing? What does rock climbing have to do with inclusion?

The other night, was climbing at an inner city gym, and there was an LGBTQ event, and I overheard the coaches say after a raffle, "We're so proud to bring queerdom here, you guys belong".

I have nothing against it in principle, but it astounds me that the gyms are trying to pander to these folk, and for what reason? Why is "queerdom" in demand at these gyms? Who is this for? None of those climbers were particularly strong, few participated in competition, etc. What is the purpose of it?

Also begs the question - why not pander in the reverse direction? If I had to choose between the gym that openly says, "Yay to the gay", and the one that says, "We're fucking packing, and we're gonna show you how to carry" the choice is obvious.

>>261980
okay I can't argue with that. the pandering in some gyms is over the top.

from a business standpoint it's a good thing to encourage anyone and everyone to start climbing and buy memberships. the first amendment crowd probably don't need as much hecking validation as lgbt/women do to convince them to exercise in public.

I don't know if that's the reason or if gym owners are just woke af

>>261980
>>261986
personally I think it's just because the gym owners themselves are woke as fuck. The climbing gym I go to unironically used to be a gay sex club in the 80s which may have a small part to play in that too. The silly thing is that I have plenty of close friends who are gay and virtually all of them actually despise the in your face pandering stuff. The big issue for them as I see it is that being a gay dude is now pretty okay where I live, most people are chill with it, they get left alone and they feel "normal" now which is all they ever wanted, but the wacky queer/lgbt continuously lumps in normal gay dudes with the most grotesque, mentally ill and downright visually disturbing individuals which they actually have absolutely nothing in common with. Most gay dudes are just normal dudes who are gay, hell most of the ones I happen to know are all incredibly right wing (especially when it comes to immigration, surprise surprise).

>>261980
It's all because of women. A lot of them are childless and they need some outlet for their maternal instincts. And thinking LGBTQ people are your "children" that need to be taken care of like they are special and not treated like normal people is easier than having real children. And then there are men that just like to pander to women in general so they support whatever they say.
Your regular Joe is not oppressed, in fact, he's viewed as the evil one because he's reasonable. It's like parents spoiling their kids and when you tell them they are making them worse by spoiling them they flip out at you.

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>>261991
a frightening chunk of modern day politics can be summed up to "women being mentally ill and men going along with it to get laid"

>>261980
>Climbing gyms are host to a bunch of trans flags
Must be US thing.
I've never seen this in any established here in central Europe.
The most popular climbing gym in my town is full of regular working people trying to have a good time and teens after school.

>>261993
>here in central Europe.
country?

>>261994
Czechia

>>261995
is climbing particularly popular there?

>>261996
The gym is always full but it's a big city.
I wouldn't say climbing here is more or less popular than in other countries.

>>261885
Made an adjustable spray wall at my house and haven't gone back to the gym in 3 months even though I have a membership paid until the end of the year.

>>261998
>Owns a home
Renterfag here. Shit sucks.

i got into argument with some on here a long ass time ago. they posted a video from like the 90’s. it was like a how to on techniques. it was a pro i don’t remember them name anyone of anything like that ?

the guys head was shaved in the video and it was broken up into a bunch of different YouTube vids

>>262000
Neil Gresham's Climbing Masterclass

>>261999
Oh man I used to rent and couldn't put up a fucking pull up bar. I got into edge lifts for that reason and got strong though.

>>262001
seconding this. the basics haven't changed.

how much of an impact on climbing recovery does heavy drinking have? I've been getting wasted every two to three days for the last three weeks and I feel like it's been fucking up my climbing

>"I'm totally not going to be that climber that plateaus at V4/V5, trust me"
>2 years later I am that climber
kill me brehs

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>>262041
literally me. I hate my stupid fucking chud life

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>>262041
Literally me. But there is hope. There is this one V6 outdoors that I tried back in January and I couldn't do the 1st move. I went back there today and I was able to do the 1st few moves and link a lot of the other moves. There's basically just one move on the entire boulder that I'm missing and I think it really is just about the beta.
Feels great to see some progress.

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>>262045
proud of you breh

>>262041
>>262043
>>262045
Recently went from V4 to V7 and from 6c sport (I think low 5.11) to 7b+ but am really close on a 7c (5.12d).
Been climbing for 3 years. First one was random playing around + some hangboarding, second year same thing but just tried harder routes. The funny thing is I didn't get any stronger after a few months but continued getting better technique.

For this last year, I basically committed to going outside every weekend and to train one or two days a week. I got stronger, sure, and my technique became way better, but the real, actual change that moved the needle was doing a lot of routes and boulders, and having a strategy for each session, especially outdoors.
Basically I would start my day with a warmup route, either a flash/OS attempt or repeating a route in better style. Then I would give a couple of attempts on a short term project (either flash try and then working it, or actual attempts, or just working it), then I would work a harder route (long term project) and finally I would cool down by doing the same as the warm up.
This way I got a huge amount of mileage in the flash or just above grades, and learned to focus on the moves when attempting.
During the last summer I focused on doing every single route up to 6c, and then when it became a bit cooler started doing harder things. I kept it up during the winter when almost everything was wet.
I really think I can do 8a next year. We'll see.

>>262041
You probably aren’t plateauing you’ve just reached the true v0 climbing grade. Can you flash every v5 you come across? If not then are you a v5 climber? I don’t know but a good v8 climber can flash all v5s so it’s still pretty easy. Progress now becomes one extra move, not sending the whole climb in a week. I don’t think people get stuck at v4-5 as long as they think

>>262058
>Can you flash every v5 you come across? If not then are you a v5 climber?
Can Will Bosi flash every v17? If not then he is not a v17 climber.

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>>262056
I noticed something that's easy to address and is limiting me immensely is my shoulder strenght. I prefer climbing really dynamically, so I have almost 0 lock off strength. In a lot of movement the shoulder is the weak link for me.
I started training shoulders in the weight room and suddenly I was able to do muscle up, despite not training pull ups in a while. Before, no matter how much I tried, I couldn't do a muscle up. No amount of swing helped. Then one day after training shoulders I just tried it for fun and thew myself over the bar without any swing.
So I will focus on that for a while, until something else is the biggest weakness.

I'm in joe's valley for the weekend those V2s had better watch out!

>>261993
Jako jo, ale mám dojem, že mi obecně ve srovnání se západem nemáme takovou tendenci rvát aktivismus na veřejný místa typu lezecký centrum, obchodní řetězec, restaurace atd. I tam, kde se s tím setkáš (a jde většinou spíš o drobný hudební kluby a tak, ne korpo), je to spíš implicitní vibe než vizuální smog.

>>262058
>Can you flash every v5 you come across? If not then are you a v5 climber?
Retarded logic
>>262068
Oop- He got to it first.
>>262041
Stop being weak, work on technique, do board climbing.

Ngl, I broke through my plateau recently and it's because of hangboarding. In the span of 4 months, V6s went from something I could do most of in a few sessions, to doing in a single session, to flashing V5s, projecting V7s, etc. Fingers were always my biggest weakness, but I didn't realize by how much. Got my max hang from +10lbs - +40lbs, and am noticing such a substantial difference. Mainly because having shit fingers forced me to rely on technique, so now that I have fingers, it's wildly easier to have BETTER technique, because I can more precisely feel the acute differences in foot tension/body positioning that matter.

>>262079
how to into hangboarding
I keep seeing anons discussing it but all the terms are meaningless to me.

>>262081
20mm max hang for 5 to 7 seconds
up weight when you hit a comfortable 5 seconds
you might plateau eventually in which case messing around with 15mm might work in your favour, and make 20mm feel like buckets

>>262081
There's lots of protocols, but don't do it unless you've climbed for 1-2 years, mainly because you might think that technique isn't an issue. I've climbed for 4.5 years, and have only hangboarded for the last half a year. I had a solid base for technique, and I still have a fuck ton to learn, I still have a long ass way to go.

>There's lots of protocols, but don't do it unless you've climbed for 1-2 years,
this is retarded advice. if you want to make your fingers stronger you should start hangboarding as soon as possible. I would say 3 months in you should start doing 20mm max hangs
don't get me wrong, I am NOT a good climber and I am in search of lost time, and there are plenty of climbers who will never touch a hangboard who will always be better than me
but doing 20mm max hangs immediately is not going to do anyone any harm at all, and could make or break you ultimately somewhere along the line

also


>ass
FOY

>>262098
I'm not talking about the injury risk. In terms of doing no-hangs, sure, let anyone do that. But focusing on finger-strength early makes retards lose focus on technique. If I had to change anything, I would've hangboarded 2 years sooner. So 2 years into climbing shoould give you enough of a base.

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newanon, a month-and-some on bouldering, and i see all this talk about v-1 - v5 etc grades, but my local gym just has different colors. went to another gym which seemed to have a numerical grading system, but not the one i see online. is this cause im a eurofag (or just retarded)
>pic related (how i feel after successfully flashing a route (i get bossed on by a 5’1 asian a sec later))

>>262068
That’s what I’m asking. But v5 is so easy a child can campus it so it’s still within the “any decent climber should be able to flash it” range. Maybe that range ends at v10

beginning think loading pin grip strength exercises are the padel of grip strength training exercises
nobody can be arsed to use a weighted belt and hang like a normal person

*beginning to think

what the fuck is with the grading in New World gyms? or is just US gyms?
A v8 in New York is literally a v3 at rock cit hull. basically outside the UK people are using a completely different grading system but still calling it the same thing which is annoying.
I've seen some videos online of gyms in Germany and that seems really soft and weird as well

annie is a washed up hag, it's over

>>262114
Ignore that shit, gym grades are nothing like outdoor grades anyway. And yeah V grades are a burger thing, EU uses the Font scale.

>>262114
Grades aren't useful for comparing climbs between different gyms or even different outdoor guide books without doing some calibrating based on your own experience.

>>262145
>calibrating based on your own experience.
Even that can be made difficult by gyms setting in very different styles.

you guys see a lot of older people in the bouldering gym? im about to turn 39 this year and tired of lifting weights. Thinking of starting climbing cause i dabbled with it in the past but am self conscious about my age

>>262160
I already feel like an old man in the gym at 31
probably depends strongly on the gym but some of them are basically just packed with kids groups and rich teenagers who apparently don't ever have to go to school

>>262160
>>262161
Find adults your own age. Climbing becomes such a good hobby for when you're older. As an ex-weights lifter, climbing captured me completely and I never looked back.

Also, 30's is NOT too old for climbing. I'm 29, youngest in my climbing group which consists of 40 year olds, and one 53 year old, and within the last 2 years they all got strong enough to do some hard 5.11s in the gym (one is starting to do a 5.12).

Start now. You can actually become good at this sport. Don't mind the tiny children running around. Talk to other climbers your age or older, and build a group out of it. You'll be glad you did. Lifting is so isolating, awkward, and silent. Climbing is wholesome and social.

>tl;dr/reddit spacing
30s isn't too old. Just climb.

>>262162
I am decent, I broke through the v4/v5 noob trap and got to V7 but then i gained weight and I'm back to noob tier at bouldering and switched over to doing more toprope shit and got a few 5.11b's
I wanted to try doing more outdoor climbing this year but I got a TFCC injury and I'm taking a long break

>>262161
>some of them are basically just packed with kids groups and rich teenagers who apparently don't ever have to go to school
this is the case of the one i plan on going to regularly . I usually dont get self conscious but you know, getting old sucks

>>262162
>As an ex-weights lifter, climbing captured me completely and I never looked back.
Yah i cant do another year of power shitting. i wish i never found out about that faggot fucking "sport"

Kids are the ultimate climbers.
They weight nothing, every crimp is jug for them, they have no fear of heights and their body hasn't been ruined by 20 years of sitting in work/school.
Yeah they might be flashing my projects, but I would be flashing their homework.
(I'm joking btw, I really don't mind)

oh my God that dude just said he wants to flash at kids

>>262160
old men are good at climbing
they don't break off as much as they do in other pursuits, which is our saving grace
keith moon is like 60 but can still climb a large number of 7a moonboard

there's cases of long term climbers getting stronger than they have ever been after 40
tom randall is about 50 and still setting grip strength PRs
relatively speaking, climbing is an old man's game

>>262160
I started at 35 weighting almost 100kg. Used to lift quite alot and I've done manual labor my who life so I got dat working man thickness which isn't helping at all. But I fell in love, 5 years later it's my main source of exercise, I'm in this shit for life.

>>262229
did you lean out from climbing? i went the powerlifting route so have good strength base dont want to do shit thats going to make me fatter

>>262231
Usually yeah, you lean out overtime. I've seen powershitters start at 220lbs then lean out to 190 over time without major dieting. I myself went from 205 - 180, but I was already naturally lean/skinny before I started powershitting (i began at 155)). At 180, I'm doing V6s, projecting V7s, and indoors can climb easy 5.12s, and I never feel like my weight is holding me back.

>>262231
Well, no. I'm still around 95kg after years of climbing. I got an appetite and the realities of a physical job (construction in this case) is that you need fuel to burn or it's easy to fuck yourself up pretty bad if you got physical hobbies on top of it and undereat. I'm not gonna be world class and I don't care, I just climb whatever is close to my current max and enjoy that.

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coolest v2 out there

Lmao Hannah Meul is fucking washed, stupid useless RED-S bitch

okay, so it's generally accepted, that being too tall is bad, because longer levers and worse strength/weight ratio.
but I have the impression that a big ape index is considered good.
does the increased reach balance out the longer lever because the strength/weight ratio doesn't really change much if you just have freakishly long arms?
does anybody have a proper explanation?

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>>261733
No, absolutely no malice intended at all. Just a weird drunken way of expressing myself.