Grandpa Amu EditionPost woodworking related questions, projects, ideas etc.>resourceshttps://rentry.co/4ch-wwgmodify code m:diy>previous>>2918565
>>2929090>>2928437I usually work with small teeth hacksaw blades to get a finest cut, but in this case since it's used bare hand without the hacksaw itself this has to do plus a better stance.>>2928473Thanks I will use it, that's very handy.>>2928585It's very interesting to do, sometimes I do something like this but not so elaborated. But I will follow your recommendations, and look for the yt vid.thanks for the answers, I got some errands to do and couldn't answer I appreciate the support.Thanks very much. Have fun!!
Is there a good hole saw for thin Balsa and Basswood sheets? I have a dinky rotary compass cutter but because the wood is really thin I wanted to use something that could either punch a hole in the wood or keep a circle while cutting to reduce sliding and causing the circles to be misshapen.The sheets are those 1-3mm thin sheets for diorama purposes
Let's all take a few minutes to remind ourselves that we shouldn't be Primitive Pepes.https://youtu.be/fGkOOtd3GmY?si=1QCdple12ybyJb87
>>2929490
>>2929490what diameter are we talking
i bought this on sale
>>29298251-10cm in diameter>>2929780uh, I can try this but I'd need to get all the materials because I've only gotten stuff for small models with foam and wood
anyone working in a woodshop? I just applied n got a call back. 20$/hr. 40 min commuteSeems interesting. Looks like a top of the line facility so might not be inhaling too much wood dust. They mostly do custom kitchen island tops.
>>2929872>Amazon
>>2929964
>>2929940The materials cost almost nothing and you can just use x-acto knife blades instead of making a blade if you want, there are x-acto blades almost identical but even the normal sort will work well enough. You don't actually have to use hardwoods but it will last considerably longer if you do. The plastic laminate can be replace with any non-brittle plastic which can be found for free all over the place but you can also skip it, it just reduces friction some. One thing that image does not show is that the the center pin goes into a work board, so you have a 20x20cm or what ever sized hunk of plywood with a hole a size of your center pin drill through the center, drill a hold that size through your stock and then put the center pin through your stock and the work board, turn until cut. This basic design can be adapted to work down to 5 or 6 cm. For smaller I can draw up a quick plan for you if you are actually willing to make these. You can also buy them, just search for guitar sound hole cutters, but these will not get you the smaller holes. If you can't have a hole in the center of your disc or need it as small as possible the design could be adapted, would need to think on it a little for the best way to go.
i'm doing a small furniture project and was intending to use some tile (appearance in pic not intended except roughly the shape/construction).i'm a bit concerned with wood movement.-will i have trouble with cracking in the grout?-would the small veneer strip used at the front like in the small section be a bad idea (wear and tear, it's only 0,8 mm thick)i do not have access to workshop tools which is why i'll be using preconstruced oak stave panels that can be cut in shop more accurately than my handmade jigs and shitty circular saw. tiles are 50x50 mm if it matters and oak panel thickness is 18 mm.
>>2930042The grain on the top, middle shelf, and bottom should be running along the length of the piece. The grain of all vertical pieces should be running vertical. However, even if you do that you'll still have several mm of movement along the depth of the piece. Wood only pretty much only moves perpendicular to the grain. If whatever you're gluing your tiles down with can withstand that little bit of movement it might be fine. It'd probably be easier to make the top and sides out of something engineered and then just veneer the visible sides.
>>2929090Yo there, I have a table made of particle board, since an old aquarium that was sitting in the table started to leak, a part of the board got soaked and the layer of formicalike it's peeling off and the chips are spilling.what's better, try to rescue the particle board (since its at most 25% of the size that is damaged) or simply change for a mdf ?(I have a left over mdf over there simply cut, apply some servinsayerwhatever it's at hand and bolton?if the particle is to be worked, what should be done?Thanks!!
>>2930592The substrate of laminate and formica is whatever is cheap. Neither particle nor mdf will tolerate water. I would add backer material after you cut out the damaged area. Then fill with scrap and cap with laminate. You can flush route the laminate to fit your scrap before you install.
>>2930595Thanks, I was thinking not to put the aquarium again to avoid possible risks.Now, this table has been used to be a work table, so its a bit roughed, so what treatment can be done once the damaged area is removed?I have found some pine boards, to replace the soaked section, how should the joint done?(I'm thinking on it, butthe suggestion you made before sounds better).>>2929780Someone could tell me what book is it?Thanks.
>>2930307thanks anon. i'm a bit afraid i'll be able to do the veneer so it looks good at home.would this be a construction that works? grain direction across length (indicated by crossed items in drawing)this way i would be able to use pre-sawed pieces and wouldnt have to worry about right angles and mainly just assemble it at home. So maybe i wouldnt even need the small gaps in the section to allow for some small length-wise movement on top board. it will only be used indooors which i forgot to mention. depth of entire piece would be 450/500 and width 1300, height 600 mm.
>>2931047If I understand you correctly then I would suggest that you build the entire piece out of oak, with the solid lip you depicted only on the front, and then simply take some MDF and screw it on so that it can move. You could hide it entirely by screwing from the top before tiling.If you'll excuse the DaveCAD I'll try to explain how you'd hide all the shenanigans. You drill 2 (or more) sets of countersunk holes in the MDF with the front being the exact diameter of the screw so it can't move, and the back being oblong so the screw can move as the oak shrinks and expands underneath the MDF. That way the tiled MDF plate says aligned with the front. Same things for the sides, of course, since you're tiling all the way around.I wouldn't bother with the expansion gap on the top then. Just join the oak top directly to the oak sides with dowels or whatever you were going to and it'll be solid. It will not move meaningfully in that direction.It's gonna be egregiously expensive and I don't know about your assertion that you won't have to worry about cutting square. You're definitely going to want to plane all the inaccuracies off once you're done assembling it.
>>2931292thanks anon. turns out i can expect about a mm of movement at worst which I imagine would lead to cracking in grout so thats a good idea! hardware store has shelves/countertops of oak staves that arent too expensive that they can pre-cut for a reasonable sum - so i'll just give measurements and assemble at home. they're not really expensive either, a bit more than mdf + veneer but i think this will be nicer and last longerotherwise I built a desk out of plywood at home (on the balcony, neighbors did not appreciate it) using a circular saw, T-ruler and clamped down curtain rails for guiding the circular saw. takes a lot of time but worked pretty good for the right angles, had loads more trouble with other elements of the build without a proper workshop
I'm making a full bed frame and am thinking of using laminated 3/4 birch plywood for the bed legs. Will it hold up? pic related
First try at a dovetail. I put varnish on this shit pine because I thought it would chip without it but it chipped anyway. I tried to do it with a regular saw but I'm seeing there's a reason why you want a backed saw.
>>2931668Fucking phone posting posted the thumbnail
>>2931669it's certainly a first try. once you start using hardwoods, you'll realize why they are used for small dovetails like that and not pine.
>>2931674You can do them in pine but you need to get the good furniture-grade pine and not the hardware store shit.
>>2931676yes indeed, you can definitely do it with quality pine, especially the harder southern pine. I also really like using really tight vertical grain douglas fir.
>>2931678This was supposed to be "southern yellow pine", which I was sold as being "the hardwood of softwoods". Yeah right!
>>2931686jej, sure; but yes, generally I agree with you that dovetails like that are best done in hardwood. You can practice it on the cheap but that means steamed beech which is about as stable as the average reddit mod's mental state and annoyingly difficult to work with hand tools. Oak, ash, sapele "mahogany" (surprisingly cheap) are all good options and easy to work. American walnut if you think the number on your bank statement is just too damn high.
>>2931668>>2931669Also a coping saw for cutting the sections off.
>>2931668Saw Roy Underhill doing softwood dovetails like, 30-35 years ago. If I remember right, softwood uses a different angle than hardwood does, and possibly a different basic size for everything as well. You might want to google that up. But it's not crazy to use pine at all.
>>2931726The grain can compress a great deal so in softwood you're better served with a more aggressive angle, say 1:5, while in hardwood you can get away with a much more aesthetic 1:8. In truth you can use whatever angle you want, after all you can box joint hardware store pine just fine, you just won't get the tiny extra bit of mechanical advantage the dovetail offers.
>>2929490You need a punch, not a saw.
>>2931866>the tiny extra bit of mechanical advantage the dovetail offersNothing blocking or a gusset can't remedy.
>>2931866I posted the shitty dovetail above and i gotta say even that blown out mess is a lot more stable than the box joint I also cut for the first time, on the other side of that plank.
>>2931982The beauty of dovetails is that they glue well because you pull them tight and even if the glue fails they still hold well in one direction, unlike box joints. In the old days dovetails on the backs of drawers were often made shitty because they weren’t visible
extremely limited experience here, besides fucking around with scrap wood i find left around and decided to try to make those Japanese single tooth shoes. im aware i probably should have used a thicker piece of wood to carve a notch out of, but im just working with whatever i have laying around right now. is there a way to make the two pieces of the sole appear less separate? Im going for a boat shape kinda sole
>>2932009for reference this is the shape im going for when it comes to finally sanding the bottom down
>>2932009Plane down the gluing surfaces so they're properly flat and clamp them tight when gluing them up, then plane the sides. I feel like this is something you should have been able to deduce without any kind of instruction.
>>2932009There's a gap because the edges are rounded. Cut them down on the sides or the face to remove the gap and you'll have a more crisp line.
Got the fine saw, cuts really fine but I fucked up my marking somewhere, don't know how since I did use the square. Guess i should have bought a marking gauge too
>>2932422Anon you need to square your stock first or marking will be an exercise in futility.
>>2932427Swear I did, I was leaned over it with the plane for an hour. I think I ended up dipping the ends downwards thought. Guess I should have had the other plank end to end with it
>>2930042Use silicone sanded grout caulk if you're worried about expansion. It looks the same as grout but is obviously flexible and seals well.
>>2932433https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C4aimRp9V34
>>2929090R8 my project. Got a slab of redgum which is an Australian hardwood, flattened it down and ripped it in half
>>2933026Then I built a .ould out of malemine and gave it a coat of mould release
>>2933027Then we tested some colours in the epoxy
>>2933029Then we poured
>>2933030Then I flattened the slab
can you please not river table
>>2933031Amd now we've given it its first sanding pass at 80 grit and gave it a wet wipe. Next will be 120, then bevel the edges, sand it to 150, route out the underside where the leg plates will be, install the threaded inserts, sand everything back to 180, then buff on 2 coats of osmo and then a nano coat to finish.This one will be a hall wayvtable then were going to make the dining tavle which is 3m x 1.2m x 50mm
>>2933033Did a yest run with the legs just screwed in quickly to see how it would look in its place
Is it possible to clean up and and seal this baseboard trim while its still attached to the wall? Its old red oak trim thats been beat to hell but I want to clean it up and put a gloss coat of polyurethane or something similar on it
>>2933110You can clean it up with sanding sponges but it’ll be damn hard to get all smooth that way. Maybe with a block plane/palm plane and some filler but it might be easier to just remove it
>>2933110What's going to happen if you start sanding it is that the original color will come back where you've hit it. The problem is that it's full of holes and bruises that won't get hit, and they will stand out like a sore thumb. Either you plane it down significantly or it will look terrible.
>>2933111>>2933126good points. the drywall in this home is pretty brittle, either the wood splits where the nails are on removal, or theres holes in the drywall where the prybar was used to remove the nails.I did a test in the stairwell, where it was much easier to remove the baseboard, completely sanded down to bare wood, restained and sealed, and it turned on nicely. if i could do this to the rest of the trim that would be solid
>>2933133youre just a monkey with a prybarcut the old paint at the top and utilise shallow wooden / plastic wedges on each nail simmultaneos
>>2933293Just to preempt the inevitable "I did what you suggested and now my wall is full of hammer holes."
Hey /wwg/, I'm black and grew up without a dad so I never learned a lot of basic handyman skills. For instance, I don't know shit about wood. I don't even know what this is called, but as you can see, it's peeling off. What's the peeling part called? Can I just like, glue it back on? What if I wanted to replace it entirely, would that be a viable beginner project?
>>2933395Here's the other side of this strip, if it matters.
>>2933397And finally, I also have these boards my sister (yes, I'm aware I'm a triplebeta) cut for me from another piece of furniture, as the original unit's shelves were damaged beyond repair. They don't match the rest of the unit, obv. Would it be easy/possible/worth the hassle to peel the wood skin (idk) off and replace it with something that matches the rest of the entertainment center?I kind of hate the ugly orange wood, but I'm guessing that re-staining it (?) would be far beyond my capabilities as someone with fetus-tier skills in this department.
>>2933395>>2933397It's a veneer. Specifically called edge banding. By the looks of it you can probably glue it back on with straight wood glue. New you usually buy this stuff in rolls with pre-applied heat activated adhesive, meaning you literally iron it on. It could not possibly be easier.Mother's day kisses.
>>2933401Thanks mom.
>>2933397>>2933401Use strips of painter's tape to clamp it on if you're just regluing it, wood glue needs pressure to set properly.>>2933400Really depends on what it's actually made of, but the matching shelves suggest the entire thing is just veneered particleboard, but the sides could be solid wood, I can't really judge from what I can see. Getting them to match is going to be tough, especially since you don't like the main color to begin with.Another option is to just completely replace those shelves with something that contrasts or compliments the main body.
>>2929090i'm building a 30' retaining wall with 6x6" 6' home depot lumberI have the foundation super flat and compact, but the bottom timbers are warped to shit. They don't lay flat, one side always raises into the air or doesn't line up correctly. Should I try my best to get one end to lay flat and straight, then let gravity and the timbers on top smush the other end back into being flat? Should I use extra sand underneath to stabilize the raised ends so they don't wobble? There's maybe .75" of difference from end to end.Pre-sanded and painted picrel. They also have much larger cracks now from being so dry, they've been under my awning all year.
>>2933395Edge banding. It may or may not be entirely made out of oak.
>>2933416Thanks mom.>>2933444Thanks dad.You guys are lifesavers. Thanks for answering my retard-tier questions. o7
I bought the whole board and so I used the whole board, as in I fucked up too many pieces and didn't have enough left to make a bottom or a lid. Anyway it came together without disintegrating in the end so I supposed I won't kill myself. Not sure why the plane shaves easy on the edges and bounces like a motherfucker on the faces
>>2933980> Not sure why the plane shaves easy on the edges and bounces like a motherfucker on the facesSuch is the nature of wood grain and planes. Flat sawn pine is especially bad for this, though a razor sharp smoothing plane may still do it well if you hold it at 45 degrees wrt the grain direction
>>2933980>and bounces like a motherfucker on the facessetup issue, the edges are narrow and as result the forces are lower, so you get away with it anyway
>>2933980Show plane.
>>2933980Because hand planing is a bitch. The lignin is like straws. You're separating strands like a cheese stick planing edge grain. You're trying to cut cell structure through end grain. Your plane should be maintained deathly sharp. Some blades are better metals than others. You're into some sharpening science reaching and keeping your edge.The same goes for your chisels. They'll help you plunge cut better at full edge strength.Or punt and learn with a router.
Is it worth learning this skill to make my own (relatively simple) furniture? How long many years of hardcore practice and studying would it take to make something simple, like a shelf or a stool, that isn't an eyesore?
>>2934190a week it'll just cost more in materials, a lot of woodworking is buying rough and milling it yourself
>saw a garage sale with hand planes>go like 30 minutes before closing>uh oh they are still there, must be expensive>I'll take all of them what do you want>price too high>boomer starts going on about they were in great shape until they got stored in a binWell maybe someone would pay more if they weren't sitting in water for 10 years guy.Maybe I should've looked closer at the #7 but I already have one in better shape and he placed the most value on that one.Feel a little raped by paying $35 for a rusty #5, later non Bailey #5 missing parts and a #3. None had cracked throats at least which has bitten me before.I hope the older #5 cleans up but after wheeling it, it's a bit more pitted than I expected, not as bad as the #6 I chopped down and was planing to make a heavy jack out of but will need a lot of flattening still. Might finally be able to start clearing out all the non stanley's I have now since I didn't have a bailey #5 or #3
>>2933030>epoxy0/10
>>2934660really glad i got bored of baileys after having bought like 4
>>2934190Making things is about process and persistence. You may make something ok the first try, but your costs will be high and efficiency low. Joinery is specialty. There are many basic building skills that are much faster to learn and practical. I suppose your should get a feel for both.
>>2933110Sometimes you just fill and paint it. Bondo spot putty is slick for a 1 part filler product. Your trim looks ready to retire otherwise.
>>2934660Eh, I paid $7 for a rusted out #3 with a corrugated sole that luckily turned out to be all surface rust. It's an alright price.
>>2934814Objectively, if you needed it yeah. But I'm a coalhead oldtroon with a hoarding problem and remember how cheap stuff used to be so it hurt, I bought my #7 that never even needed to be cleaned up for $10. Even though I didn't need it in I felt bad leaving it there to get tossed in the dump since I at least have a pretty good parts stash to try and save them.
does anyone of you guys use hot hide glue?ive done dozens of test joints with different mixes and im never able to get a glue joint stronger than the wood. Anyone with experience willing to share some knowledge?
>>2935106I've used bone glue a great many times and it's always been quite forgiving. The one thing you can't do is overheat it. I use a baby bottle warmer to heat mine up to maybe 50°C.
>>2935112what bloom strengh are you using? what surface, sanded or planed? single application or "primer" and another coat before bringing the parts together?
>>2935113No idea what bloom strength it is. I got it from https://www.fine-tools.com/Bone-Glue-1000g/109008I put it in a small glass jar and fill it with RO filtered water until it covers plus a bit more or it gets way too gloopy, let it sit for a few hours so it hydrates, and then I put it in the baby bottle warmer on full tilt.Surfaces have all been planed or chiseled so far.Single application but when I apply it it feels like it's soaking in to the grain a fair bit.In the beginning I had a lot of trouble with it starting to gel before I got my parts together. Turns out it was because I was working in an unheated uninsulated building from the mid 1800s in the middle of winter. Brought it inside the heated house and it immediately stopped being such a bitch.
what do you do when your wood floor gets scratched or dented? just go over the area with a plane and redo the PU coating?
>>2935219touch up sanding and finishIf you can touch up with a plane, more power to you.
>>2935106they say hide glue is good for repairing woodwork since it comes off easily but pva dissolves in water so why not do that
>>2935219If you're willing to try a plane, a scraper would probably be better.
>>2935219dents you might be able to lift with a wet towel and iron, the steam lifting method. scratches you might be able to sand out, sometimes it's just the PU layer that's scratched, so even easier to scrape and reapply. But sometimes wood flooring is wood flooring and the scratches and dents give it character until you are ready for a full refinish down the line.
I have made a haaaamer
>>2935558That has no ham
>>2935566I won't have my haaamer be slandered. If you live within 4 feet of me, then make your peace
>>2929090anyone got recommendations for a decent cnc? Im getting nothing but junk info and reviews for discontinued products.
>>2933034Put 2 coats of osmo 3032 in it
>>2935624how big?
What’s this tool? And is there any tool that will ‘plane’ one surface square to the other surface?
>>2935845a chisel that goes into a crevice or some crap a planer
>>2935845I've seen them called dogleg chisels. As far as the planing square to another surface, that's called skill, or "getting gud." No tool will be 100%, it's on you.
>>2935845Look into a Rabbet plane.
>>2935863>RabbetRebate. It's spelled rebate.
>>2935845It's a cranked chisel, or cranked paring chisel if you want to be overly specific.
>>2935690Fin
>>2935961From Wikipedia:>The rebate plane (British English) or rabbet plane (American English)How trigger do you get when your see an American flag next to the English language option? As bad as the Portuguese feel when they see the Brazilian flag next to the same?
>>2929090i always read this general as World War Gaythat is all.
>>2933395nice taste in games, i'm gonna help you out;that shit is sometimes iron on, heat setting glue. but yours looks fucked, so use some superglue or non-expanding wood glue. hold it in place with some tape while it dries.
>>2933400what you got there is melamine particle board, it is basically sawdust glued together with a layer of plastic on, you cannot stain that, you may be able to varnish or paint it. it's not worth the hassle, get some nice wood furniture instead.
>>2935973you're the same guy who made that live edge cracked table or something with the same style of legs? you're the wannabe blacktail studio of this thread?
>>2935577anon, sometimes you deliver, keep up the good work, i need a photo of this by a person for scale.
>>2929090ooooh so THAT'S what's all over chinese wooden crap i buy.
>>2936001Not me, first time poasting here
>>2935976Fuck off, the spelling for the cut is rebate in American English too, you twat.
>>2935973Looks nice. Ignore the haters, if they could do better they'd post something instead of talking shit.
>>2936050Don't under estimate or over estimate the craftsmen of wwg. I feel there are generational talents on both ends.
>>2936050Thanks mate. The hallway table was kind of a test run for the larger dinning room table Im about to give a go
>>2936003I gave it to my buddy, I'll get a picture sometime, I'ĺ ask him to try to hit a nail with it
nine months into my woodworking career and a few minor projects done, the main cause for miscuts by a absolutely MASSIVE MARGIN, nothing else comes even CLOSE is the motherfucking ribbed hose on my shop vac snagging on somethingliterally feels not worth using unless it's suspended from above and that's not something I can do everywheremight look for a smooth hose too
>>2935690looks sick
>>2935123alright, i finally had some sucess. what did i do different? i measured the ratios by volume instead of eyeballing it or by weight like previously.Also who ever claimed copper wont discolor the glue is full of shit, but i guess the disolved ions will preven it from going bad for a long time>>2935476good luck dissolving cured pva in water
>>2936259what are you doing that the shop vac gets in the way? the only two cases where a shopvac could get in the way of the cut I can think of is either a track saw poorly connected to the vac, or a router handheld and connected to the vac.
>>2936259Most hoses are expensive, heavy, or they buckle easily imo. I put some braided hose protector around a ribbed one and it works well, I heard from others that you can buy 4” heat shrink tubing and heat it just a little bit. Also there are a 100 different clones of the Festool hose on aliexpress and with some you really can’t tell the differenceEither way overhead is still best, with a pivot point and a rail and a spring to keep it up high.
>>2936342plunge router work mostly, cutting decorative grooves into panels etc.>>2936358yeah those protectors might be the best bet I guess
Absolute dumbass here: What tool would you guys pick for cutting as close to perfect 90* cuts in 6in x 1.5in wood bars for a bunch of parts for an invention I've got going on? My miter for the life of me couldn't get exactly 90* cuts. Wrong tool, or just garbage quality?
>>2936760If you have a table saw build a crosscut sled. If you're not confident about it, Katz-Moses Tools has a jig for mounting your sled's rear fence perfectly square.Try setting the miter saw with a square, but if that fails your saw is probably not any good.
what would happen if you hand cut floating tenon joinery
>>2936868Seems like a waste of time to do it instead of just using a router. The point of floating tenon is that it's fast. If you're hand-cutting just do a regular mortise and tenon.
>>2935845Japanese trowel chisel. Kind of a meme tool desu, only useful to get exact dimensions on work using a reference which kind of defeats the purpose of using hand tools to begin with.
I want to engrave a simple pattern on some oak then fill it and sand it so it's flush with the wood. I was hoping to get something metallic gold. I know you can doctor wood putty with dye but that won't make it shiny. I'm going to varnish it afterwards with a gloss so that might help. It's not going to be a deep engraving so I'm honestly thinking just build up layers of acrylic enamel then sand it flush. Like the Lind of paint you'd use for model cars. Planning on using oil based poly thinned with mineral spirits. Any ideas?
>>2937105Fill it with craft paint. They come in any color you want.
>>2929872it's cast iron so it's probably based
Rate my idea. I get <1ft diameter logs for free (the tree people say they’re too big for the shredder but too small for the splitter). Will power with some 400W motor, I think I may need a wider and lower tpi saw but I’ll test with this one first
>>2937305Very Wandelcore.https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UU-Gykz2ADY
>>2937305i think you need the guide blocks between the wheels where the blade makes the cut because the force of pushing the material into the blade could roll them off the wheels and don't put unnecessary bend in the blade you can just axe those small logs desu
>>2937305why do the hard part instead of building a short band saw jig
>>2937105want to do its the cheap and autistic way?grind a 5 franc coin into pigment and combine with a binder of your choice. gelatin (translucent hide glue) should work great.propably the closesed you can get faking metallic gold
>>2937469Don’t have bandsaw, most with 12” usable height are €600+ and usually don’t even come with a VFD. I can use a cheap industrial 3 phase motor which will make it run much nicer and easy to control the speed.
Can I somehow fix shallow hairthin cuts on a textured varnish to make them at least invisible? Do these scratch removing sticks work or is it really impossible as google seems to think?
Idk if this is the right thread to post this on or if I should post in the general, but I saw these cutting boards with print and I was wondering if anyone knew how I could make them myself. I would buy one, but tariffs and shipping would fuck my non-american ass. Any ideas? I was thinking of getting a pre-made cutting board and gluing some sort of sublimation blank on top of it. I couldn't find a printing thread so this is where I think it would be the best place to ask.
>>2937937I don't see how you're going to hit a print with a knife and not end up eating it. Maybe make a case or cover to drop your boards into.
>>2937937listen mate, i cant help you if all you show me is white background
>>2937937If you really want to do that, you could carve with a router with a shallow v-groove bit and a wider plate mounted with handles built in, or a CNC/laser to cut the design, then fill with colored epoxy. Just be sure to label it as a serving board or display piece, not to be used as a cutting board.
>>2937943>>2937947>>2937989This is what said cutting board looks like. Seems to be a layer of plastic on top of the wood. Can't be posting anime women on a blue board.(x)com/pipiTradeGuild/status/1955037878565654802/photo/1
>>2937991My best guess is these are vacuum laminated, an other option would be to print on some kind of foil. With a laserjet you could print on waterslide decal paper. You’ll need a bunch of epoxy coats over it to keep it from scratching badly tho
>>2937991this is just a print / sticker glued between a sheet of makrolon and a board, and i think the board side is supposed to be the work side
I know it’s frowned upon to make cutting boards but they make a nice present and I still want to improve. The oak I get has knots/splits and I finish with tung oil, but how do you fill and seal the small cracks without using glue or epoxy?And better question how could I let oak boards dry (I get them green from the sawmill) with minimal cracking? I can ask if they will quarter saw it for me, would that help?
>>2938102I don't have much experience making cutting boards, having made only one and as a gift as well, but I can tell you as an avid user of end grain cutting boards that I much prefer using mineral oil and beeswax to any drying oil. The problem with that is that you're not going to be filling anything larger than the natural pores in oak and even that is marginal. From a user perspective I would avoid anything with exposed knots like the plague. When I made my board I deliberately chose a board I could saw around the knots on, and what small knots were in my staves I made sure ended up in the middle of the final blocks.
>>2938102>but how do you fill and seal the small cracks without using glue or epoxyusing face grain and not having cracks
>>2938109Thanks, that’s a really cool design btw. After I cut I didn’t want to remove pieces because I thought it would break the pattern. I do have beeswax but so far found it much harder to get a consistent finish as with tung oil (I haven’t tried heating beeswax or using it with solvent yet though). But youre saying filling it with beeswax will do? Won’t that cause a noticeable soft spot where it’s filled? >>2938111I cant really pick different oak trees, local is the only affordable and the face grain is way too soft
>>2938102If you really need to be using oak, try cutting the worst parts out, especially those circular center parts instead of just using whole 2x6 sections. Or buy better quality cuts, such as quarter- or rift-sawn.That said, maple, walnut, and cherry are way better for the purpose.
>>2938132Oak's pores will store bacteria. It's over.
>>2938136Add beech and pear to the list
>>2938132I melt 1 part beeswax into 4 parts mineral oil and apply it regularly over top of my cutting board which is saturated with pure mineral oil. It won't fill out major holes or cracks but if you apply it hot it will soak quite far into the pores and tiny cracks and stay there. At that concentration it's still pretty soft at room temperature so it's not great for filling an actual hole.>>2938163American white oak (Q. alba) and European oak (Q. robur) are so full of tannins that you can build ships out of it. As long as you stick to the right oak species anything that makes it into the pores will die.
>>2938163wood is anti bacterial no?
>>2938276That looks like one of those cut out wooden puzzles.
>>2938276> normal people use 60HRC steel but let’s use a plywood machined to 1/8” precision and pretend that it works for more than 2 minutes for youtube viewsStupidest idea I have ever seen, absolutely no reason not to use a slide bearing with lots of wax. Everything about that pic sucks
In a fence like this is there any reason not to use half lap joints to make it half as thick?
>>2938285You have no curiosity and no soul.
>>2938285he simply wanted to proofe you can built wooden things to air tight tolerances
>>2938109as this anon says, don't use pieces with flaws in them in your board in the first place. i have always used a bit of glue to fill small gaps in my board glue ups. mind you these are pretty small gaps. anything that's big, i'd cut out. i also use mineral oil for for finishing. my first board used fairly wide pieces, i would avoid if possible as they tend to bow more than smaller pieces under use.
>>2938276wood's antibacterial properties come from the fact that it can suck bacteria into its pores and deprive them of oxygen and kill them. the surface is not inherently antibacterial. red oak is basically like a hard sponge, in some cases you can literally blow air through its endgrain and get bubbles from the other side if you submerge it partially in water.
>>2938344I've done it, it works fine. Takes longer, takes a little skill/experience, I'm guessing those are the main reasons. Well, I also wasn't thrilled using my chisels on treated lumber, but I washed and dried them and they're fine.
>>2938642>fixie>asics>flat bar>khaki>unfinished plyCome get your boy. Casual Friday was yesterday.
>>2938658for >>2938276
>>2935845I really like this guys videos, this is what put me onto that brainrot ultra short form content (its over for me now)
>>2938732All those different Japanese tools are so interesting. There's a German and English book on how the Japanese do joinery.
how do i get sawdust out of my lungsthis is urgent
>>2938642>it can suck bacteria into its pores and deprive them of oxygenthat doesn't even happen in plastici would think it was something chemical about the wood that made it anti bacterial
>>2938875It is. It's tannins.
>>2938875Nta, it doesn’t happen in plastics because they are not porous like wood. You can make plastic ‘filters’ that do similar stuff with some techniques. But it is a minor factor afaik. It is mostly tannins, the tree uses them to combat mold infections, the tannins bind and break up most types of exposed proteins and most bacteria/funghi and even viruses are basically small heaps of proteins not protected by a cell wall
>>2938872Use your cilia. Otherwise use better dust control vacuum. Use a respirator if you're going to cloud a bunch of mdf.
https://youtube.com/shorts/kKKBMzeuuHA
>>2938885>how to waste three hours on a single joint>>2937071all japanese hand tools are memes
>>2938872second for using cilia like this anon says, they just work >>2938883
Without any serious woodcrafting experience or workbench, I recently got into a few woodcarving tools like knives, chisels and files recently and now want to do something with them. i have little experience. I think Ill go into the woods alter today to pick up a stick and carve something. I am not that artistic, so I was thinking of something practical.What kind of practical things can be made out of sticks and what kind of sticks should I keep an eye out for?
>>2938637How do you make yours? I made that one with zero electricity, not so much because I really wanted to but more because my only power tool is a drill. The end grain planing was absolute hell and I have more family members asking me to make them. I assume a power planer of some description would make short work of it and then you just glue on some extra bits on both(?) ends to prevent snipe.
>>2938964start with the absolute basics
>>2938991i do have a table saw which makes consistent pieces much easier than cutting by hand and then hand planing to thickness and square. after glue up i do have a lunchbox planer to flatten out the face but it is quite risky as it can wreck your planer so i don't know that i'd recommend this. i take extremely small cuts, like 0.005". so my glue ups need to be as flat as possible, using cauls and lots of clamps. i didn't use to use the planer for flattening end grain boards though. i did the standard hand plane and then sanding. you can get the same results but it is much more time consuming. it's worth the time to get your glue ups as flat as possible.
>>2939110Bottom side was pretty flat but hand sawing left a few mm deviation on the top. Even that was an absolute nightmare.
>>2939169yikes. if you have a router and a rigid piece of acrylic you could simply build a precision surfacer
>>2939169How thick are those shavings? I used a no 4 and then a block plane, went a lot easier than the big bench plane, but sharpened them both just before. I don’t always keep planes super sharp but for end grain it makes a world of difference >>2939317Could you elaborate or maybe post pic?
>>2939319>Could you elaborateyou more or less clone pic rel which is a 1000$ tool by attaching a long, croped base to a router equipt with a face mill. Basically a router jig without the jig part.
>>2939319The blade was probably getting quite dull at that point. I had to sharpen it an ungodly amount of times. Also it was a 25° blade. Most of the time it cut quite well, there was just a lot to take off. I ended up buying a wet grinder because grinding low angle primaries on those thick PM-V11 blades takes an entire day by hand and I simply couldn't be fucked to do that again.
>>2939321I may be retarded but I fail to understand you would start an end pass with one of these unless it is already 99% flat. Do you start from the lowest point or something?
>>2939334yea, the face mil doesnt cut at the bottom at all. it cuts along its circumference>Do you start from the lowest point the mafell one is basically made to mill a co planar surface, but the working princile is pretty much like any plane, power plane or jointer. it takes of the high spots infront of its path.
>>2939334>Do you start from the lowest point or something?either that or you place a piece of other crap with the desired thickness next to your board and start from there.
>>2939336Sounds pretty good guess I’ll try and make one, I got some thick polygood laying around anyway. Hope it works, I tried with a diy router sled earlier and couldn’t get it flat at all, maybe too flexible but also the routing bit would push the end grain sideways while cutting leaning an ugly surface. Are the cheapo face mills okay? I’ve never used one
>>2939340>Are the cheapo face mills okay?cant say. But for a first try any straight cutter should do. the cut depth should not be any deeper than the base itself, maybe 0.1mm>leaning an ugly surfaceyou will never get a pristine surface from a wood router due to the cutter cuting a swirly spring pass on its back side. this is to get it close enough for sanding / planing.
>>2936259Someone on reddit claimed, 80% of a wood worker's job is cabinet/drawers. Is this true?
>>2939428>someone on reddit claims blanket statementthe wood worker shop in my bumfuck village has a cnc for custom made kitchens and the entire rest of their workload is fitting doors and windows
Ignore the shitty laminate and chiseling, it was a test. Question is if I would fill the chiselled out part with pouring epoxy mixed with white pigment would it level out nicely and give me a flat white ‘inlay’? It’s for a house number sign and I never worked with epoxy before
>>2939531Also is there anything else I could fill it with? I tried filling acrylic paint before but it just soaks in, and with PU clear coat but it didn’t harden
>>2939531As long as it’s flat.You could also just use paint.
>>2939532> paint soaks inNo pain I’ve ever used would soak in to even red oak. It’s thick and it works.Just get cheap house paint or something.If it “never” dries, that’s fine… spar varnish stays flexible too.I think you used milk, not paint. Those are different.
>>2939445how did they afford that
>>2939541what do you mean, every service they provide is custom fitted and premium priced. all the cheapskate buy run of the mill crap from the home improvement store.due to living in the resopal era, the cnc replaced like a dozen other machines, just looking at the setup times, doing that investment is a no brainer
>>2939544idk woodshop in bumfuck village is a whole different impression
>>2939546do tradespeople in your area have a 3 mile operating radius? Bumfuck village here means 1 1/2 hour drive to the next bigger city, but i guess in the US thats almost a regular commute
>>2939540What I want is a flat/level layer like pic rel. Last time I carved about 1/8” deep and filled it with paint. When dried it was a layer of maybe 1/24” thick so the bottom of the carving showed.
anyone notice how bare mdf collects moldy dust like stuff on it's surface when it's humid during a rainy season
I've been borrowing a friend's battery powered Ryobi drill, but it seems like it's too weak to use with a hole saw.What specs should I check when buying a drill? RPM? Voltage?I don't mind if it isn't cordless.
>>2939736any name brand should do, i use my 10+ year old porter cable to cut holes in stainless steel with no issue. that being said you can find cheap corded drills from dead boomer sales easily and that should do anything you want, including being used as a small lathe. also i'm assuming you're not retarded but make sure you have it set to max torque
>>2939169yeah that can be a lot to plane out. my first ever board was like that. instead of planing that out i used a belt sander with low grit. this was a lot faster than planing and the constant sharpening. plus if you gouge or tear out an area, you need to plane additional to fix that. you can also hit local areas and just smooth them out so you don't have sharp ridges to get out. the belt sander will not get everything exactly flat but it will be good enough to look so by eye. a card scraper can also help smooth out (not flatten) small local areas. you can then finish up with planing or orbital sanding. >>2939340router mill should work as well. the bit needs to be sharp and be reasonable with the depth of cut. get a good sharp bit to avoid frustration.i always need to sand out slight lines when i use my mill so my whole set up needs to be stiffer as well.in the end, getting your initial pieces consistent saves you a lot of time in the end.>>2939736depends on the size of the hole and the material. something capable of low speed will generally give you higher torque. drills should list torque specs.
>>2939664Oh, I know, do inlays!
>>2939736Any drill will struggle when going deep with hole saws as they have no nice way of clearing the sawdust and huge friction if they’re in deep and not going perfectly straight. If you need just the plug part, drill right at the edge of the material so that so it can clear. In either case go halfway in and then flip the work piece, gives a nicer edge too. If any other drill, a 500W+ drill press >>2939856I don’t think I have the skills for that unless you have some simple trick, how are these even made if not with a cnc?
anybody have any experience making pikes out of wood ?interrogativewhich wood is best for pike making ?interrogative
>>2939736Do you have the clutch set too low? They'll click if the clutch is engaging. They whistle if the engine is binding. Any 18v drill or impact will run the hole saw kit. You probably want to get started in the battery lineup of tools that will best suit you later on.
>>2939980double bevel marquetry
>>2939991that's likely dewalt, bosch or makita. milwaukee fucking sucks for woodworking tools don't fall for em
>>2940011Details?I use green trash, but my saws are Dewalt and Craftsman. Milwaukee is most common with electricians and plumbers.
>>2940015all they have for woodworking is a circ saw, router, and i guess you could consider a driver a woodworking tool. they have alright mechanics tools, though the electric socket wrench is kind of a meme, i generally just reach for one of my regular rachets since all my m12 batteries went to shit over multiple minnesota winters
How many kids does this guy have? And why do they never seem to grow up? Just realized I've been watching this guy for more than a decade and he always seems to have young children ~10y/o or younger in the house. He's always making projects for the kids bedrooms or homework area or toy room for all this time yet never talks about any grown up kids...
>>2938344lmao how would that make it half as thick?
>>2935690doesn't epoxy outgas for it's entire life? not sure you want to eat off that or even keep it in the house
>>2940898He only got married like 5 years ago
>>2940906What about every other piece of plastic, adhesive, insulation, and building material you bring into and use for your house? Maybe you built an earthship out of raw dirt and don't live in an area with soil concerns like radon, lead, or nuclear decay.
Got my hands on some glorious WOOD this morningMy knowledge of working big, hard wood is fleeting at best. But my intention is to turn these into kitchen cutting boards.From what I understand I need to do:1. Clean my wood thoroughly, preferably with a damp cloth2. Strip... the bark off3. Drip some paraffin wax on the edge grain4. Put it on a rack in a cool dark place for at least a year with airflowIs my prep correct?
>>2940937wait till anon discovers that most woods outgas VOCs forever, and i mean shit like formaldehylde >raw dirtenjoy your silicosis
>>2939755>>2939785>>2939991I set the torque to max, looking at the specs for the drill I've been borrowing, it seems like it really was just that weak:6N･m-12N･m7.2V, 1,500mAhNow I'm looking at HiKOKI FDS18DA35N･m-50N･m18V, 2.0AhWould this be enough to punch through a 75mm hole saw?
>>2929090R8 my progress Opaque in, pouring clear on top tonight
tangentially related to woodworking so maybe someone can help me out here. I bought a house and the previous owners left in an old kitchen + bedroom furniture, but they are all ugly as sin as far as the painting goes (although the material seems good, I would say it feels like solid wood rather than particle board or whatever cheap shit is trendy nowadays). I tried buying some paint stripper from a hardware store to get rid of the paint, but it doesn't work well if at all (the paint comes out in spots/smudges rather than cleanly off). What can I do to remove and repaint? my dad suggested trying with a heat gun but before buying one I wanted to understand if there's a stripper that can actually work on it.
>>2939531It will be flat-ish. The epoxy will ride a little high on the edges unless you overfill it. Either way there will be some flattening required after.
>>2941109A hole trough what? Drywall sure both should do. 1” of plywood well if you insist, 2” of wood no youd need a 1+ hp drill press
>>2941370not my personal preference but the colors look alright, do you sell these?
>>2941398what paint stripper did you use and what type of paint? you gotta give details
>>2941493Nah first one ive ever done, its going to be the dining table
>>2941562how much did the epoxy cost and what finish you going with?
>>2941494will provide pics later today,as for>what type of paintI have no idea, how do I check?
>>2941564$1000 in epoxy and were going with osmo polyx finish. This was the test run table I made for the hallway
>>2941790i like the sheen. i wish there was an alternative to epoxy i feel like the prices are 2000% inflated now because of blacktail. i'm sure your dining table will turn out great though
Hi! Very newbie question here: I want to make wooden dice for a friend's birthday present, but I'm unsure what type of wood to use. I'm thinking it should be on the harder side, if they are going to be used a lot. Any recommendations?And I assume the process would be as simple as it seems? Cut, carve the pips, sand and apply varnish?
I went to the habitat for humanity store and got some cabinets for $15 each. Figured I'd put them in the garage. Turns out they're damn near a perfect fit under my tablesaw. Just gotta reassemble the face on the top drawers (I have the parts). Its nice when stuff works out.
I have a portion of my room I need to make a shelf for. Because of how the area's laid out I can't just buy a desk with shelving built in, it needs to be a shelf without much depth. I don't have tools, an area I could use them if I scored some secondhand, or friends who do woodworking so I'm wondering what common points of failure I would run into if I were to make 2-3 trips to Lowe's or Home Depot and bought my boards pre-cut, then assembled at home. I have the basic knowledge to assemble this (drill guide holes with a bit smaller then screws, then apply wood glue to the area two boards attach before screwing them together completely) and can follow a sketched blueprint and cut list. So far I've only come up with needing to factor in the bit of board the saw blade eats, and can just measure the next cut's length one at a time instead of laying a board out, walking down it with a measuring tape and pencil. What other common points of failure should I be aware of, anything?
I've got a bunch of old MDF panels and bedframe parts that I want to turn into a custom workstation, what's the cheap and easy way to paint or coat it?
>>2941950Is it just a basic shelf with nothing fancy going on? Are you doing brackets or trying to put up floating shelves? Either way you need a drill. And something to find studs with if you want it to be properly load-bearing.If nothing else, get yourself some basic tools if you want to do decent work, this starter kit should be fine: https://www.homedepot.com/p/RYOBI-ONE-18V-Cordless-2-Tool-Combo-Kit-with-Drill-Driver-Circular-Saw-2-1-5-Ah-Batteries-and-Charger-PCL1201K2/317987584
>>2941962Buy some latex paint and a roller.
>>2941972Genuinely why do people respond with shit like this? "Hey I know you said this wasn't an option but do it anyways no I'm not the retard you are" You're a bot. Whether or not it's actual AI or a media programmed NPC makes no difference.
>>2941978I don't see you attempting to get enough info to actually answer his question, you mindless shitbird.
>>2941950>What other common points of failure should I be aware of, anything?it sounds like you plane on doing screw into end grain, just lower your expectations in how much weight it will hold. a diagonal brace or back plate is mandatory.I would not bother with screws if i dont even have a drill desu, just nail it together and use a clamp to prevent splitting. this is as basic as it gets
>>2941950The bigger issue is that you have no experience constructing or installing shelving. Because of this, I would suggest you might purchase and install something prefab from the store. I think with construction, it's good to learn the process one stage at a time rather than trying to learn a combination of skills at once. Or you could just butt joint a 1x6 to a 2x2 cleat and screw that to a couple studs. Cut it to length at the retail store. I'm not out to offend. Installing one shelf vs building all the closets in a house doesn't add a lot more mental difficulty. My cabinet shop routinely screws up floating shelves and it's always up to me to develop new ways to make it work. Sometimes they'll sandwich two pieces of veneer mdf together with no means or install. Other times they'll make a 3/4" French cleat but only leave 1/4" of shelf opening. The important thing is to try. You'll learn from the process under any results.
20 years on this site and first time posting here because I am looking for tablesaws. right now just want to make small stuff but might need larger cuts, like 4" thick pieces of really hard hardwood, I'm guessing 1hp isn't enough?
>>2942166What kind of pricing and space/storability level are you looking at? Do you want something you can set on a work table and use? That folds up with its own stand? Stays set up, but can be rolled to the side?
>>2942169I'm willing to get something that needs its own shed. But I don't have my dream garage yet, so realistically, probably nothing massive. Price range in 2k USD area. Simply put, right now if I were to get a table saw, it would have nowhere to go. It would sit in a cluttered storage area. That's why I was eyeing that DeWalt model, the one with the wheels, but was afraid it wouldn't have enough juice
>>2942176The DeWalt jobsite is a really good one, it's actually got better max feed capacity than the Delta Contractor saw at about the same price, and accepts 8" Dado sets.$2000 is kind of an iffy price point, Sawstop makes a base model Contractor saw with no frills at that price. Laguna makes a couple cabinet saws under that pricing as well, and the aformentioned Delta has a few different models with longer tables.But for $650 the DeWalt's a really good, accurate saw that you can then buy some handy accessories for, like a better miter gauge, feather boards, decent ripping and crosscut blades instead of the construction grade GP blade it comes with, zero-clearance throatplates, and a nice Dado set. You can even fit it with the new Jessem Stock Guides.
>>2942180Shit you just sold me on the DeWalt. I think it was the right move because I really need to get to ripping some boards and have been wasting time looking at Laguna's deltas jets etc. Of all the upgrades you mentioned, which would you suggest I get asap?
>>2942181Depends on what you plan to do with it, but if you're mainly ripping? A decent 24 tooth ripping blade. Ripping and crosscut need to cut differently, to rip it's better to have fewer teeth with bigger clearout gullets, while with crosscutting you'll get cleaner results from a 60t blade that nibbles more than gouges. You don't need to spend a lot on the blades either, Diablo makes pretty good ones for cheap.The miter gauges that comes with table saws are garbage, and if you're doing any crosscuts/grooving getting a better one like an Incra 1000 or the Rockler crosscut miter sled isn't a bad idea.The stock guides are a bit pricey ($200), but hold whatever you're feeding into the saw tight against the table and the fence. You can also do that with feather boards, but need to be careful that you aren't setting them up so they pinch the wood into the blade.
>>2942185Thanks for the advice. I'm gonna go look into the incra and some blades. God bless
>>2942190I've got an incra 1000hd i'll sell to you for $100 shipped if you're in the US. Damn near never used it as i was at first terrified I'd knick it on my sawstop, but then I found out I just use sleds for most of my tablesaw cuts that aren't rips, and then I ended up with the harvey sliding table.I've got a few things I need to sell or give away. Tool bloat in woodworking is a real problem, except unlike cooking or whatever other hobby sometimes you really DO need specialized tools...
>>2942261Honestly though ask if you really even need it. A shitty miter gauge is completely worthless, or actually detrimental. But jigs and sleds might get you where you want to go with no fuss. I use this cross cut sled a lot, and this segmented turning two part sled I picked up is super slick, and you just make or use preset blocks to set it back up every time.
>>2942263Meant to attach a Pic.The Jessem stock guides the other anon mentioned are nice too but featherboards will get you there cheaper
>>2942263To be fair, I did mention the Rockler sled as an option.
>>2942308Yeah, nothing wrong with it, other than just being highly priced for what it is (but so is the incra).If you can get by with a 90 degree cross-cut sled and then stop blocks or adjustments for common angles, then DIY is the answer and you can square it up with the five cut method.
>>2942330KMtools makes a jig that lets you put the rear sled wall on perfectly perpendicular without that needed.
>>2942340Brother, this doohickey is $130 clams to do something that you can do yourself for free in just a couple of minutes using some scrap mdf or ply pieces. It accomplishes something you will need to do exactly one time, unless you decide to build crosscut sleds as a hobby (not judging). Woodtubers are not people and we should not encourage them. Especially if they are men with hyphenated last names.
>>2942345
I got the DeWalt today, assembled it and started ripping my pine, realized Im short by a few boards to complete my little 4'x2.5x workbench surface. I have an old hand planer to start attacking the flatness too.Only at this point I realized I have no idea what I'm doing and I don't know how to attach legs to it. How are shop tables usually assembled underneath? I would stay lurking being a noob but this place moves like molasses.
>>2942364Picture
>>2942365The one legitimate use of a pocket screw is to attach a tabletop to the frame. They have been around for a long time and you don't need a Kreg jig to make them. Picture related.
>>2942364>>2942365The most correct way would be a mortise and tenon arrangement. It resists racking and when glued together is essentially one solid piece. Attach legs with fasteners and they'll eventually rattle somewhat loose, since you pretty much beat the everloving shit out of a woodworking bench when using it.That said Rex Krueger has some good videos about benches. Look through his channel as well ad Stumpy Nubs videos on 2x6 benches.https://youtu.be/5CwIX6jE-qA?feature=shared
>>2942368You think I can get away with not using some 4x4 legs? I do have some chisels but wanna see if I can get away with making the whole leg assembly out of 2x6s. If I buy diff legs I gotta dry that bih
>>2942374my bench legs are also 2x6, eventually I doubled them and turned into 4x6 essentially.
>>2942374You actually get better results by gluing two 2x together than using 4x4s. 4x4s are almost always made from the core of a tree, and will develop cracks along all 4 sides.You can even do easy half-lap joints by cutting the pieces for one side short to make openings for the joints.
>>2942384>>2942381Eggscellent. Most eggscellent
>>2942384>>2942381>>2942392I buy the nicer 2x12 whenever I'm at a home center and then cut out the pith if it has any and make my own 2x6 for precisely projects like this. You often end up with really nice nearly flat-sawn or quarter-sawn 2x6 this way, and it's often drier than regular 2x4 and 2x6.
>>2942367The point of pocket screws is fast install. I'd sooner make my own kreg with scrap and some metal tubing than chisel out individual pockets.
>>2942441Yeah, I think if I'm just mounting a tabletop like that figure 8s are faster and easier, as well, and account for wood movement better.
>>2942516Damn this some seismic engineering at a tiny scale
>>2942517Better than trying to deal with a split/warped table later.
What material did they originally use for the green inlay part on these antique writing tables for friction and a softer writing surface? Some kind of leather? I’m looking to make a similar style desk. A modern alternative would be okay too if it’s durable, but most (real/fake) leathers I’ve seen are way softer and wear fast
>>2942762My Scrotum trimmings back when The scrote was flowing freely, I lived large then
When you guys are making drawings do you just do it by hand or do you have any software you use?>>2942762Pretty sure it is almost always leather. Googling with "Desktop leather" gave me decent results.
>>2942844I like rhino cause I used it in school
>>2942762linoleum
>>2942844By hand but mostly design scribbles. Sometimes libreCAD if need a lot of precise cuts or weird dimensions.Or if its serial production to print hole patterns
>>2942762Linoleum, vyco, or ypur wife's old cutting mat.
>>2942762It's probably some variant of boiled leather that hardens it.
>>2942844fusion 360 (autodesk are jews though) or if it's simple craftyamigo is alright once you get the hang of it
>>2941912Undermount slides and inset would be $100 each near me habitat is insane
DeWalt noob back again, I just released the thing from the clamps, now I'm looking to flatten the surface. Did quick research and saw a good jack plane is 400 fucking dollars, is that right? It was a brand called lie Nielsen
>>2943016Rockler has an in-house brand called Bench Dog, they're pretty solid Stanley clones. The No. 5 is on sale for $140 right now.
>>2943017I have an old bench dog smoothing plane. I guess I'll go with them again for the jack plane
I've always been doing some minor, hurrdurr-that'll-do-grade woodworking and now that I finally got my own house, I've got the space and a reason to upgrade.I guess the tl;dr is pic related.I've got a few pieces of furniture I need, that I'd like to /diy/, and I know that I can build a working 4 m long sideboard/cabinet thingy which I want to have to make use of the space under the roof side of my sleeping room, but besides "working", it should also look good, so buying a shitload of wood for a 4 m project to start with doesn't seem like the brightest idea.I figured a proper workshop would also help in that 4 m endeavor and I need that anyways, even if I say "fuck it" and stay with hurrdurr-that'll-do-grade stuff, so I'm looking at building a work-bench to start with. I've got about 2x1m of space in my workshop to "park" it, so I want a compact, wheeled one, with a vise or two and a side and the top with dog holes and a bunch of small drawers below and a small cabinet (to play around with drawers and cabinets).Now there's hundreds of>how to build the best workbench!!!vids on youtube which I can use as a base for planning. Are there any things to consider that those (((influencers))) don't tend to influence you about?
>>2943453The problem with building your first workbench is that you don't have a workbench. Get an old door and screw it to 2 sawhorses. It will suck but it will work.For an actual workbench, make it rigid and make it heavy. You want it to not move when you put real effort in.
>>2929941Slave labor, you'll churn out the same cuts day in day out
>>2943463>The problem with building your first workbench is that you don't have a workbench. Nice try, big-workbench, I'm not gonna buy your overprized wares…>Get an old door and screw it to 2 sawhorses.Oh, OK. I already got an old kitchen unit that came with the house (70s formica, yeah baby!) that I moved to my workshop-in-progress and I've got sawhorses, so I can already do quite a lot of stuff, but for precision work, a vise an some holes for clamping seem like a good start.
>>2943453If you want something easy and stowable, the Bora Centipede is a really good option, and comes in a range of sizes from 2'x4' up to 4'x8'. And they have tops with a choice of flat, 20mm dog holes, or 3/4".And once you have a beefier bench built it's still useful for when you need a workbench somewhere else. I've got one I set up on my apartment patio to do stuff on.
>>2943552
>>2943541>not gonna buy your overprized waresa used commercial wood worker bench is half the price of anything roughly similar you could wish to cobble together.two usable vices sets you back a hefty sum already
I'm the noob with the DeWalt table saw. Forgive me but im going to get the DeWalt hand planer too. Not the microwave shaped planer that's actually good, the hand one. Convince me not to.
>>2943552As someone with a 4x8Do not buy the 4x8 for 4x8 materials because it's retarded and doesn't fitThe tops miss the point of it, you should just have some 4x8 materials to throw downThe 30in height of most of them is too short, for literal children heightThey suck fucking ass on dirtI'm going to have to take mine apart and drop an inch of shit in every tube to make the overall expansion like 3'9x7'7 probably or something close so I can actually set a sheet of ply on it and use it without half of it falling off
>>2943882https://www.youtube.com/shorts/_D0_G9UMBH8
>>2943884>The 30in height of most of them is too short, for literal children heightI'll note they have 36" versions or you can get 6" riser add-ons.
In case anyone is interested in muh baby sawmill project, got a bigger bandsaw band, tensioner works well. Made the wandel style tracks, the plywood and acrylic covers are mostly to prevent the blade from jumping away. Pulleys and drive belt are underway.Still a bit afraid that the blade may drift under load but it will be two-handed hold to run and the old siemens vfd brakes pretty well so I guess pretty safe
>>2943998To prevent the blade from drifting you put a crown on the pulleys.Wandel was asked about these small bandsaws with 3 wheels, and he said he had one and they break the blades because the radius is too small and puts too much stress on the blade.In general his videos about bandsaws are a treasure trove of info for a project like this, you should re-watch them all.There are many about the 4 bandsaws he build he knows his shit.BTW /diy/, THIS is what the board is supposed to be about, not contractor quotes, HOA, niggers in your yard, or troll posts about which fucking cordless brand is better
>>2944023> put a crown on the pulleysThey have a crown, they’re industrial wheels with TPU ‘tires’ that have a crown from the factory, but it may be too convex the blade likes to ride just off center. I may improve the shaft alignment by adding a board between them on the wheel side because I think that’s the main reason. > his videos about bandsaws are a treasure trove of info for a project like thisDidn’t know he had videos, I saw just his page with pics. And a post from someone on a forum with a similar design with a lot of info. Will check them I know about the small radius but I really won’t be stressing them as much as he does, cutting big logs fast with 2hp motor, my logs are 1’ diameter max and I’m using 0.5hp for now.
>>2944026>they’re industrial wheels with TPU ‘tires’They might be a touch too soft due to the thickness of the TPU layer. Hard to tell from afar.>Didn’t know he had videoshttps://www.youtube.com/@matthiaswandel/search?query=bandsawhttps://www.youtube.com/@matthiasrandomstuff2221/search?query=bandsaw>I know about the small radius but I really won’t be stressing them as much as he does, cutting big logs fast with 2hp motor, my logs are 1’ diameter max and I’m using 0.5hp for now.Doesn't even matter if you're cutting or not at all. Merely the motion of going around with no load will bend the blades sideways and destroy them pretty quickly.The wheels are so small that you're not above "minimum bend radius" so the stretching and compressing of the blade material exceeds elastic deformation and puts it into plastic deformation, so every time the blade moves it is work hardened slightly.It then eventually snaps.
>>2944030You assuming I didn’t scale the blade down accordingly - it is 0.02”. Bending stress is proportional to radius and inversely proportional to thickness, people run 0.042” blades on 16” wheels all day long, I have 0.02” on 7”. I think it will be fine but I’ll notice soon enough
>>2944023>>2943998crowns are only useful for keeping the blade on the wheels when it's idling under load you need the guides between wheels where the cut is made which include thrust bearings so the blade just rolls over them
>>2944243Thanks, I bought bearings for 2 guides each top/bottom/backside to mount on the cut side but haven’t gotten around to making them yet. Normal ball bearings I don’t really see how a thrust bearing helps here
How is the blue achieved? Just by painting? Could I put a clearcoat finishing over paint like that?
>>2944520Dyes get incredible colors and depth.
>>2944520Big part of this effect is because is pic is taken in studio lightning in a pitch black environment
>>2944520Mix with water if you want penetration, alcohol for surface buildup. After that apply whatever finish you like.
>>2944470Bandsaws actually use three bearings on each side of the cut.
>>2943552Looks like it would be good for camping
>>2942340Today I learned there is the woodworking equivalent to the audiophool.
>>2944869>Tool that gets you more accurate results faster without needing to do a bunch of math like the 5-cut or drill 50 holes trying to get the alignment right and will last 50+ years, and is priced pretty reasonably for a precision-machined piece of aluminum>Comparing that to $2600 ethernet cables, power cable stands, and bags of magic rocks you tape to your cables
>>2944880Why build 100 jigs when you can buy them all for 100?
>>2944892I have no clue what you're trying to claim here.
>>2944905Buy another tool from Woodcraft to use the tool you just bought from Woodcraft.
>>2944940
>>2944940There’s a yo dawg meme in there waiting to get out
>>2944962I hope your $150 speed square doesn't trip your Sawstop.
>>2944962 Yeah. More expensive solutions are called for when production or precision demands aren't being met. I'm not going to tool up without the craft establishing a need.
>>2944967And Woodcraft/Rockler provide a range of budget to to mid pro level tool options.
>>2944564I know I’m making them exactly as pictured but none of these is a thrust bearing so I was curious if there was another design
Made a cutting board for a friend. This hickory end grain was a real bitch. I did a test run with a 2x4 douglas fir or whatever, and I knew the hardwood was going to be harder but not this much harder god damn. I spent at least 4 hours sanding out tool marks. I think I need higher quality sandpaper, either by abrasive or by whatever glue was holding the aluminum oxide. My electric planer chattered and made the surface worse, and the hand planer did the same. Fucking A
This may be a stupid question and I posted it in qtddtot first but the anons there told me to just abandon my project rather than answering it, so instead I want to ask here too before giving up.My question is, how do I calculate the maximum withdrawal load of a wood screw? I found several formulae online which gave me wildly varying results; according to one, my particular screw can support 3600N of force giving me a no-brainer 15x safety margin, while according to another it'd be only about 400N which is only ~2x what I need and thus within marging of error of me fucking up somehow.So I hope anons here who actually work with wood might know how this works, because I have no engineering or woodworking experience so I have absolutely no clue how to figure out which answer is closer to the truth.The full context is that I want to suspend my PC on a bracket under my desk, of total weight 24kg. The desk is oak wood. The mounting bracket attaches with four screws, the ones supplied are 5.5mm x 19mm. Unfortunately due to its design a majority of the load will likely be on just two of the four screws, and if my PC is not exactly balanced, it wouldn't even be evenly divided between these two screws, so a single screw might have to bear a significant proportion of the weight.Given that I don't want any risk of my PC ripping out of the desk and crashing on the ground, ideally the safety factor would be big enough for even a single screw to bear the entire 24kg load with a very wide safety margin (in case the grain is not perfectly horizontal, in case my pilot hole is not perfect and grip is worse than the theoretical optimum, etc. etc.)But as mentioned above, having no experience myself, I really can't tell if I'm worrying over absolutely nothing OR if it's actually within margin of error for something going wrong and I should stop risking my entire PC just for a vanity project.
>>2929090I have become addicted to woodworking content. What am I in for guys? Can I make furniture and flip it from my garage?
>>2945971You're asking a few things making it a nonisolated engineering question. I can't verify that your table is solid oak or 1mm of oak veneer over LDF. Drywall can support 100lbs with only finish nails, so while LDF sucks it is at least as good as the painted chalk we use for walls in the states. 50 lbs isn't heavy. Send two screws with washers through the case and join the computer directly to the table. Defining the shear strength of your fasteners will depend on the fasteners you choose and the material of your table. Attaching the load directly with almost any fastener will be fine. If you use one screw to hold up a 10cm shelf then you're on your way to designing a way to screw this up because the force becomes angular and focused at the screw.
>>2946011>You're asking a few things making it a nonisolated engineering question.I'm happy to provide as much information as needed, the table is just solid oak yeah, 30mm. There's obviously separate staves but I can position the screws away from the joints between them, so they go directly into solid wood.>through the caseThe top of my case isn't load-bearing but I already have a bracket thingy that can hold the PC and has a mounting plate on top, so that's solved.>shear strengthThat's the thing though, it won't be a shear load, it'll be a tension load (screwing directly into the underside of the table). Correct me if I'm wrong on this but my intuition is that shear is much easier on wood screws, which is why I'm worried.
>>2945987go nuts bitch
>>2946018install the bracket, load it with 50 lbs and see if it falls off
Got my table top flattened today, trimmed all the edges not time for filling any gaps and a fuck tonne of sanding
What's a good babby's first project and babby's first wood? I got gloves, a smattering of basic hand tools (powered and otherwise), and a dream.
>>2947159basic workbench. home depot 2x4's and sande plywood
>>2947163Did you mean sanded or is that some word I don't know?
>>2947216it's their slightly less shitty "plywood"
>>2947222They can't just use normal plywood grades?
>>2947224dude it's home depot, spics don't understand the abbreviations. they were just forced to put the actual dimensions of a 2x4 on the label presumably because houses and shit weren't getting built right
