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>>2935829
>What chainsaws are you guys using
as a man of culture only the finest chinkshit knockoffs are suitable for my use
this one came to life back when you had to order straight from the orient and a box shit showed up a month later with 0 documentation. the jug was cut short so i had to use the metal base gasket to keep the piston from bottoming out. they obviously gotten a west coast fallers saw that had been bubba'd as the pattern to copy. the muffer was gutted with the hillbilly side pipe factory installed. replaced most of the critical hardware and used gobs of loctite on the rest of the chinesium butter bolts
fucking thing runs like a raped ape on 25:1 110 low lead. itll pull a full chisel skip 28 buried in oak with you standing on the handle

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For me it's Stihl...

They're a bit pricey, but seem to be made as good as you can get. Parts are widely available. I'd stick with them if I was starting over today. In fact I have pretty much solely gone with Stihl 2 stroke equipment. I have 6 of their weedeaters, a backpack blower, auger head, and 4 chainsaws. I do have a Husqvarna concrete saw because it was so much cheaper brand new than a Stihl saw it was insane. It's been good so far too.

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>>2935829
I currently have an old Homelite XL-12. You know the one. Picked it up cheap as a joke and 'cause I liked the movie. It runs well but is a bit slower then a similar Husky or Stihl. No brake and its loader than I'd like but it works. I only use is every now and again.

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>>2935829
I have three Husky saws.
>120 Mk2
>550XP Mk2
>592XP

All have a different purpose; pruning, general purpose yard work and heavy duty work/felling. All hardwood, mainly Jarrah (8.5kN) and Wandoo (15kN). I have them serviced often, roughly every 80-100hrs, and do regular upkeep myself. I'd buy them all again, they all serve a purpose.

>>2935956
I've got a stihl 461 which has been bulletproof but I'll be tempted to try one of those if it ever dies. They're about a quarter the price of a stihl in my cunt

>>2936056
How do you like your 592 and have you ever used a 572? Was considering a 572 or even 562 as my heavier duty saw. Mostly hardwoods but I don’t think as hard as the woods you have there

>>2935829
I have three. Sthil 461, Stihl 150 top-handle (modded), and a cordless Dewalt DCCS623. I've been very happy with all of them. The nice thing with Stihl is they are very reliable and parts availability is fantastic. The 150 is my favorite, I've got a 14" Panther bar on it with non-safety chain, it's ported and has the timing advanced, it's amazing how well it cuts.

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Anyone ever use one of those fire/rescue chainsaws set up to cut metal, roofing, etc? How are they?

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>>2936684
The saw isn't anything special really, they're usually just a pretty big Stihl or Husky with some bolt-on mods like an oversize pull handle you can use with big fire gloves and a guard that covers up part of the bar, then a carbide chain. Cut quality on metal is terrible and the cutting process is amazingly loud. It can only cut thin metal, like roofing or siding. There's a reason nobody uses them outside of rescue applications. If you want to cut metal or concrete then the abrasive disc saws are the way to go, all the big chainsaw companies make those too. The one advantage the chainsaw has is that it can cut a combination of wood and thin metal simultaneously so it's good for cutting ventilation holes in walls or roofs.

>>2935956
>110 low lead.
Hot damn, Fujisawa's on the sauce.

Speaking of modding power equipment, I've had the temptation to go nuts on my FS560 brushcutter, but it's scary enough in factory configuration.

>>2936680
Speaking of cordless saws, they are getting very good these days. I have a family member who is a pro arborist and they use cordless for all their climbing saws and all the pruning work. Really the only areas where cordless lags behind is if you need a REALLY big saw, or if you are cutting high volume like a pro forester. But if you just need to cut some firewood, prune trees on your property, deal with storm damage, then I'd look pretty hard at cordless.
The 60V Dewalt saws, both the top handle and the 20", are impressively powerful.

Stihl MS251 -- Perfectly adequate power and very lightweight. Not very reliable though
M18 Rear Handle -- Extremely good daily driver from a garbo company. Also not very reliable.
Echo Timberwolf -- Excellent saw with just a little bit too much plastique
G660 Clone -- Is what it is. I actually have 2 of these. They're not bad.

>>2936730
>Also not very reliable.
Is that the saw specifically, or the usual problems with the M18 batteries?

>>2936730
>MS251 Not very reliable
ive had the opposite experience. i do the maintenance on my pops saws and he beats them like the town hog. he has 3 of these and they are runners. cracked fuel lines and plugged air filters are the only things that are usually wrong. he runs 18" 26rs chisel chains which is all theyll pull and hasnt killed one yet. he does run mix way too rich though
his most used one is the most beat. he drove square over it with his fully loaded 3/4 ton chebby about 10 years ago. busted the plastic case bent the bar and broke half the fins off the jug. bought a few used ebay parts to put it back running and it wears the scars proudly now. never had to do an engine on any of them even though everybody says the clamshell is a throwaway timelife component

Rvg8gd>>2936730
I want a timberwolf since my little echo can't do bigger tasks and I don't like stihl due to previous experiences. Aside from the pladtic, do you have any complaints?

>>2936748
No not yet. Haven't run it enough to give a more thorough review. Starts every time though.

>>2935829
Stihl MS182(traditional pull start, no complaints)
Stihl MS212C (I hate the easy2start system) I would get a top handle (12-14") if I could change it today.
Milwaukee M18 Pole Saw (great saw and very useful)
Milwaukee M12 Hatchet (6") saw

I work on everything I have and if I don't know something, I learn it and apply.

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Anyone got any advice to share on pole saws? I'm not a professional, just someone who needs to maintain his land. I have a Stihl HT133 which works great for most of my needs but I want something with longer reach. I started researching pole saws. I naturally gravitated to Silky because I love their hand pruning saws, but apparently they stopped importing genuine Silky poles in the US for legal reasons. I can get Notch poles, they make copies of the Silky Hayate and Hayuchi, though I hear they are questionable quality by comparison. Is that true? I can buy a genuine Silky piece-by-piece, and I gladly will if it's really better, but if this is just people being elitist for no reason I'll happily go with the Notch pole with Silky blade.

>>2936699
Yeah I'm really wondering about how the chain performs, for demolition. Have 9" Dewalt and Husky K770 but have been thinking about getting one for more cut depth/exotic cool toy factor but it kind of sounds like it sucks from what you're saying.

>>2936954
For demolition they might make sense since you don't give a crap about the cut quality, and they would handle stuff like asphalt shingles, siding, nails, pvc, etc--pretty much anything except masonry/tile and thicker iron or steel. If you wanted to test it out without committing the money maybe rent a chainsaw and put a carbide chain on it, that way you're only risking the cost of a chain and the rental fee. If you find that does what you want then buy the saw?

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>>2936924
I bought one of those vevor 27' saws for $80 off amazon
I used it to cut down dead tree limbs.

the blade is thin and flexes too much but whatever, just need patients.
its heavy at full extension. hard to maneuver and difficult to get it right where you need to cut
the whole thing twists and bends. you really need to lock it all in place and then find the best angle to cut it and work with the sag
taking lengths out is a bitch too cause it gets really tight.
it came with a 2nd head with snips and a pull saw. its great for smaller limbs.

realistically you only use it heavily for the first time and then only a few times per year after that.

>>2935829
Ive been using the 80V Atlas electric chainsaw from HF. It has completely replaced my 2stroke Craftsman.
Its quieter, less vibrations, and cuts just as well if not better.

The only thing I hate is how quickly chains get used up. my fault for not keeping it tight, but it always slips off and gets ruined. i rarely end up sharpening it.
Is there a chain that isnt afraid of touching soil? i swear i knick the ground a few times and it gets completely dull after that.
it also leaks bar oil constantly. from day one. its only fault.

>>2937306
>The only thing I hate is how quickly chains get used up. my fault for not keeping it tight, but it always slips off and gets ruined. i rarely end up sharpening it.
>Is there a chain that isnt afraid of touching soil? i swear i knick the ground a few times and it gets completely dull after that.
>it also leaks bar oil constantly. from day one. its only fault.
Something is wrong if you're kicking the chain off. Dirt dulls all chains quickly. Quality chains will hold up a.bit better. I swear they all leak bar oil.

>>2937315
I leave the wrench behind and dont tighten the bar frequently enough.

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>>2936573
>>2936573
The 592 is a great saw, it never stops pulling and cuts quickly. It does suck the fuel like it's Stihl cousin and it's too heavy for use as a GP saw especially if youre running a longer bar. I've never used a 572, my everyday is the smaller 550 though. If you're felling and bucking hardwood you'd want the extra engine capacity over the 70cc; quicker cuts, ability to run bigger bars, less engine stress and less energy expenditure from the operator.

>>2937306
carbide chains stay sharp much longer if you touch abrasive stuff. However they are expensive, more difficult to sharpen, and they don't cut as well as a normal chain even when brand new.

>>2937377
Attach a short piece of cord and a carabiner to your Scrench. That way you can clip it to the saw for storage, or to you when you're working. That way it's always present when you need it. It's also handy to do the same with a small wedge in case you need to stop the kerf from pinching the bar.

>>2936954
If you want to be a real billy baddass go find a Stihl 090G and run harvester chain

>>2936738

MS251 is a great saw in a lot of ways, but I have had so many failures it's unreal. For context I live in densely-wooded forest, so a chainsaw can be the difference between me being able to leave my house after a storm or not.

For someone on 1-3 acres of woodland I'd almost recommend it. But I can't depend on it. Most of my failures have been design or metallurgy issues. Too many corners cut.

It's so freakin lightweight tho...

what's the hottest top-handle these days? Gas, I don't have time to recharge batteries.

>>2937656
Cords and biners are a classic way to carry and hang useful things. I keep a large roll of bright orange handy just for that.

A convenient way to melt paracord ends is using a lighter or torch over a container of water which catches molten drips and cools the end after melting for immediate safe handling.

>>2937954
It's also handy for organization. I have two chainsaws, a hedge trimmer, and two brushcutters. Each has a different scrench. If I just left them in the back of my truck or in the shed I'd never have the right one at the right time. But if they're clipped to the tool they go with then that problem is solved.

And yeah, hi-vis colors are ideal. I painted all my screnches bright red & used high-vis cord and red carabiners.

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dont cut wood all that much so switched to electric, so many less headaches for a tool i only need a few times a year.

also the backpack battery carrier is awesome for big jobs.

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>>2938094
>$350 for a backpack
>$450 for 3 batteries needed to use the backpack
>$379 for a 20" chainsaw
Versus
>$539 Stihl 20" chainsaw

I have a few doubts about your post. And thats from someone with a suburban chainsaw.

>>2938126
Also, there is a very easy solution to 90% of the frustration that some people have with gas saws: buy pre-mixed 2-stroke fuel in a metal can. It lasts for years without gumming up the carburetor.

>>But but that stuff is expensive
You don't need much. If you're an occasional user a gallon can will last you a fucking long time and the extra cost is well worth the reduced hassle. If you use your saw a lot then run mixed gas most of the time and just put the premix in when you store the tools for the off season.

>>2938128
I really do get it why your average homeowner willing to /diy/ their own landscaping doesn't want to fuck with small gasoline engines. Everyone here knows how temperamental 2 stoke engines can be and battery powered stuff is simply the most convenient tools for the layman. What most people don't realize is these batteries left in your garage all year can go bad. The circuit board in a machine intended to vibrate and be used in fairly harsh conditions will go bad. You cannot replace a diode or compute chip, you can replace a fuel line and air cleaner.

My neighbor and my mom (not the same person) both have all electric stuff. In 7 years they've both had to replace their mowers, 2 batteries each, and had to get a leaf blower and weed whacker replaced under warranty. All while my cheap Bohlens junk is still buzzing right along and I haven't done anything particularly special as preventative maintenance. I don't even use the expensive premix fuel either.

>>2938126
we have this little milwaukee saw at work, its so fuckin handy

>>2938139
Its such a good saw. I'm not sure about making money with it, but pruning trees, cutting back limbs, chopping up wood fence posts, even the little battery is adequate for home-gamer jobs. I've stalled it exactly twice when a limb pinched the bar, and when I was putting way too much force trying to get it to stall on a pinion tree. It makes quick work of anything smaller than 6" but will still do a 10" limb without any fuss.

>>2938145
I cut a 6x6 with it quick and easy

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>>2938126
Got the backpack with two 6.0 batteries and a leaf blower for $300 on clearance at Home Depot, usually $600 for that set which is absurd.

Batteries go bad whether you use them or not after enough years.
In 5-10 years the company will change how batteries connect and replacements will be hard to find. Might have to make your own.
Lithium batteries catch on fire sometimes while charging.

Combustion engine requires you to wear it out. If you use it infrequently it may last forever.

>>2938131
>Everyone here knows how temperamental 2 stoke engines can be and battery powered stuff is simply the most convenient tools for the layman
Agreed, I recommended cordless for less-serious applications above (>>2936724). I really like my Dewalt DCCS623. If I had to buy another mid-size or smaller saw right now I'd be leaning very hard towards cordless, especially since I already have plenty of batteries I use with other tools.

I just wanted to share a solution for 2-stroke frustration that a lot of people seem ignorant of. I thought that fancy 2-stroke mix was a dumb waste of money. I bought some with a new hedge trimmer because Stihl had a deal where they doubled the length of your warranty if you bought the premix. That got me to try it out. I fully intended to never buy another can of if, but once I learned that it would let me neglect a tool for 10 months, pick it up and start it on the 2nd pull? That made me a believer. I haven't had to deal with a single engine problem since I started using it, and I have several 2-stroke machines.

>>2938223
>but once I learned that it would let me neglect a tool for 10 months, pick it up and start it on the 2nd pull? That made me a believer.
You're reading too much like an ad script. All it is is ethanol free 90 octane gas with 2 stroke oil mixed. If you simply cannot get ethanol free locally and its only bought once a year for storage I get that.

But the people buying it every 2 weeks for regular use just love setting money on fire.

>>2938224
>All it is is ethanol free 90 octane gas with 2 stroke oil mixed
Yes. In many places ethanol-free gas is very hard to get.

>its only bought once a year for storage I get that.
Yes, exactly. You'd have to be retarded to run it normally.

>>2935829
Husqvarna 154 and 162 are what I mostly use.
Fixed them up myself, ported cylinders on two of the 162s, made "Ironhorse" pipes for them and advanced the timing after reducing cylinder squish.
AMA.

>>2938139
Does yours piss bar oil if you leave it full no matter how you orient it in storage?

>>2938225
>Yes. In many places ethanol-free gas is very hard to get.

Literally impossible in NYC (and I would guess LA and Chicago, it's a federal rule tied to air pollution concentration IIRC) unless I'm missing something. Except for the little expensive premix bottles.

>>2938441
>it's a federal rule tied to air pollution concentration IIRC
I cannot dispute that, but the irony is the liberal push to use "renewable fuels" by growing corn and getting 26mpg in a civic while polluting more. The fuck are you buying ethanol free fuel in NYC or CA for anyway?

>>2938443
>The fuck are you buying ethanol free fuel in NYC or CA for anyway?

Well, I'd like to for generators and gas powered tools.

>>2938685
I don't think you live in NYC then. But also CA is gay so I don't care.

I need a chainsaw, maybe 2. I have Milwaukee M18 lithium platform, leaning towards 14" electric for small stuff, trimming, etc.

for the gas saw I was leaning towards stihl, mainly this would be for blocking trees to fill my firewood shed for winter. What do i need?

>>2938692
How big are the trees you're felling to process into firewood, what trees are they. And are you trimming decorative trees or just want a second toy to buy to do what the Stihl would do?

>>2938695
mostly pines and aspen, possibly cottonwood occasionally, for firewood. I have a completely neglected yard and was thinking it would be cheaper to use a smaller electric chainsaw for nasty cuts that may be in the dirt.

>>2938687
What makes you think I don't live in NYC, that I'd rather be running better fuel through tools and generators? Plenty of concrete for a K770 to tear through here.

>>2938729
>K770
Well considering this is a chainsaw thread and NYC has no trees to cut down or trim. And I can't imagine anyone declaring they're a manual laborer in NYC on this forum.

>>2938783
Some NYC areas do have trees and shrubs. The popular idea it does not is not shared by people who lived in the area.

While removing a tree often requires a permit you could (cough) gash the bark near the base then spooge it with Tordon. When it mysteriously dies removal is no longer an issue.

Arborist bills were insane forty years ago so I'd be looking to avoid those.

>>2938803
There are even huge parts of Brooklyn known for how many trees there are there. More trees than most suburbs, even.

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>>2938848
Forgot pic, but yeah, there's limited large grassy areas (parks mostly) but there's tons of trees. Nearly all of these buildings are also going to have backyards too.

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picked up some old bow saws yesterday. got the Stihl running, just have to get the carb tuned. Stihl 041AV, Poulan 361 and 306 auto and Homelite XL12

>>2938894
>xmas trees shake in fear

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>ctrl+f echo
>2 hits
thread full of retards

>>2938894
I've never seen a saw in that shape. My rudimentary searches say they're for cutting felled trees/logs and you don't have to bend over and torque your back to cut? You can kinda just lean over into the horizontal log? Is that right?

>>2939969
dewalt shorty in my truck
cuts through limbs like butter
runs reeeeeeal good all wet

>>2938716
If they are really nasty dirt filled cuts and not too big in diameter a Diablo pruning blade in a cordless sawzall is my go to. Old railroad ties and cedar posts get that treatment. Those things are hell on chainsaw chains.

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>Stihl MS382
>Stihl MS660
>Stihl 064
>Stihl 051
>Stihl 070
>Sachs Dolmar 120
>Dolmar ps6000i

>>2939981
They're popular in the South and used to buck (pine) logs that are already on the ground. This saves you from having to bend over and having the bar get pinched.

is it worth buying one to mill a fallen pine tree
can you diy the milling jig
is it easier to mill poles and beams instead of boards

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>>2936924
Yes, I have two jameson pole saw kits. I love the blades, they are streets ahead of anything you get at the hardware store.
Just don't get the 4 feet saw head. They had some manufacturing issues with that. I called them months after I bought it off of amazon and a nice lady on the phone answered and sent me a new one.
I have two regular saw heads with 13 inch blades, two 6 feet base poles, and four 6 feet extension poles.

>>2938094
>cordless chainsaw
>has a cord

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>>2943068
Its pretty easy to freehand beams if you use snap line to guide your bar. You can also cut notches and then use hewing axe to take off the chunks. You want to use axe anyways to make the final finishing job because sawed off surface rots faster. Axe will seal the wood and moisture cant penetrate as easily.

Milling logs eat up chains like crazy. Maybe one board and your chain needs sharpening. Buy a lot of chains to circle through. You need atleast 80cc saw to get things done. Use shortest bar you can get away with to minimize drag. Milling boards freehand is hard so you need atleast something like pic related.

>>2939969
>shitty shindaiwa

>>2939969
the only Echo tool I have is my DCS-2500T and it's so excellent, I'm glad I spent more for the smaller one

>>2938126
I have the 8" fuel, and that little shit is so powerful and fun for its size, very handy for many things.

Chainsaws are ontologically evil. On paper it's very cool, 2 stroke, spinny sharp chain.
In reality it has to be the most miserable things I've ever worked on.
The later ones not so much but still shit, I worked on one from the 70's I got before tossing it in the trash because the out of production coil was more expensive than the saw was worth, it's a chinese finger trap of a design, ever single panel and the fuel tank had to come out before I could even try to troubleshoot it.

>>2943417
Better to just act like they are consumables. Average dude uses them so little that when you finally need spare parts you dont get them anymore or they are rare and expensive. I always cringe when people tell home owners to buy a pro grade chainsaw. "Buy once cry once" they say. Wasted money i say. At the end you dont get the benefits that you think you are getting because time has passed. Mid tier name brand will work just as good.

>>2943417
>>2943517
50+ year old tool needs repairs so all of those tools are shit? Tools are disposable consumables? huhhh?

>it's a chinese finger trap of a design, ever single panel and the fuel tank had to come out before I could even try to troubleshoot it.
You had a chinese chainsaw from the 1970s and you just threw it out because there were heat shields on it?
>"Buy once cry once" they say. Wasted money i say.
For the average consumer that prunes 2 tree limbs a year or needs to chop up a neighbors tree after a storm yes. Buying a pro-grade tool would be silly. Itd be like buying $4000 of snap-on wrenches to do 2 oil changes per year. But if you're a professional that relies on the tools to make an income then they're simply not a waste of money. If you're a rancher/farmer that fires it up a few times a month, they're simply not a waste of money.

>>2943542
It was a $10 like 16" saw and the coil was $50 for a used one that'd probably blow up shortly after anyways.
>it was chinese duuur
It was a US one, I spent like 2 hours pulling interlocked diecast pieces, fuel tank, carb etc out to actually get to the flywheel, wasn't worth any more time or effort after actually getting to the part and looking up the cost.
I didn't say they are shit, just that they are miserable to fix to the point there is no fun it.
I have a 20 year old consumer one I pulled off the curb, still terrible but at least I didn't need to spend hours fiddling with it to work on the carb and replace fuel lines.

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>>2935829
I've used all kinds and the best chainsaw is a sawzall. I currently use a $50 chinese cordless knock off and have taken out many trees up to about 15" to clear my property. It neither needs nor drips oil and I never have to sharpen the chain. I just throw blades at it like sunken cost fallacies and can keep it in a bag in my camper.

>>2943577
>It was a US one,
so it lasted 50+ years before it got to your hands and you deemed it junk not worth repairing because a replacement part was $40 and a new chinese saw was $140?

Your entire point of being upset over a serviceable part deep within the machine that only has to be touched once every half-century is a bit stupid when you step back and evaluate the situation.
>I spent like 2 hours
I can disassemble a chainsaw in about 10 minutes. 20 if you're talking breaking down smaller parts too. Are you a tard or a wrenchlet that doesn't understand fasteners? I'm completely uncertain how you spent 2 entire hours to disassemble a machine you can hold in your hands. Even a wristwatch can be disassembled with 60 individual parts faster than that.

>I have a 20 year old consumer one I pulled off the curb
So you're not even buying new chainsaws, you're buying other people's neglected garbage complaining about all chainsaws? Am I arguing with an AI?

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>>2935829
I have a homeowner grade husqvarna w/ 20" blade and its been trouble free. I paid about $500 or $550 for it. I forget. I got it from a husqvarna dealer though, which makes it better than the ones you can buy at Lowe's.

The nice accessory you can get for your saw is the non-fuckupable sharperener.. I think its made by stihl. Its good stuff. Its made in different angles so you need to order the right one for your chain. I forget exactly what I had to figure out before I got one.

>>2935977
I heard that about stihl. Its really the best there is. I beleive thats the goto for most professional settings.

I've had pretty good luck with my huskies.
I have a really good husqvarna backpack blower/neighbor seething device.. it only ever needed a fuel filter every once in a rare while. I make my 2 stroke mix with ethonol free 91 octane. I think its sold around where I live beciase its a rural area. Maybe the farmers need that shiz.

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>>2943810
Stihl, husq, and Echo are basically Gold, silver, and bronze medals for chainsaws. Anything else is likely made by Bohlens with a different label depending on the store that sells it, cheaper homeowner stuff that'll work for trimming a tree once a year, but if you have to use it more than once a month its not smart to avoid the top3.

>>2943807
How does it compare to a dremel attachment, do you know? I might get pic related, seems like every sharpener has its own ups and downs.

>>2943812
Im not sure about that dremel sharpener. I've never used one. It looks like it would be a little more time consuming than the stihl sharpener.

Heres a demo.
https://youtu.be/f3IX-6sb3Jk?si=tXE3NW9YRl-ysROK

It has guides so you dont have to worry about messing up the angle. You sharpen two at a time and then flip it over to switch sides.

>>2943840
>It looks like it would be a little more time consuming than the stihl sharpener.
Quite possible. Apparently the Harbor Freight chain sharpener is pretty decent, but $140 for a single purpose tool is silly. I figure I already have a dremel so this is just a jig and a few bits. I've owned my saw for 2 years and don't use it often enough to really need sharpening, but now I've noticed cuts are taking just a little longer, still effortless but seemingly taking longer than a lightsaber.

>>2936699
it's probably mostly about the cutting depth. I have a knockoff of a gas Stihl concrete cutoff saw like that (paid less than 200$ for a refurbished one) and it cuts wood and metal surprisingly well too, something decent, like an actual Stihl, probably goes through anything woodden like it's not even there.

I want every environmental terrorist hung. WHY IS EVERY SAW AUTOTUNE? My $600 ""professional"" 545xp saw melted because I didn't get FIRMWARE UPDATES?!? Ahhhhhhhhh
Got an Echo cs590 because they're the only new saw with a manual carb. One hour and I already like it better.

>>2943845
150? The stihl auto guide sharpeners i saw were closer to $50. Well worth it imo.. mine is blue because I may have ordered it from somewhere else but its the same product.

>>2943935
Yea, dude I agree. I dont want any electric saws. Although my pole saw is electric.. those typically are just easier that way.

>>2935829
stihl 045
pros
>reliable
>feels very well made
>very powerful considering how old it is
>in ideal conditions, its weight combined with power helps you cut and its almost effortless
>looks badass
>i like the sound
cons
>HEAVY AS FUCK
>anti vibration not as good as on modern chainsaw
>harder to start
>spare parts hard to find
>not very versatile due to size and weight

husqvarna 372xp
pros
>perfect combination of power, size and weight
>easy to start
>easy to operate
>feels really well made despite lightweight and extensive use of plastic material
cons
cant really think of any. if i were nitpicking id say it goes through its fuel tank quite fast

>>2943977
I have the husqvarna 455 rancher x torq.
Its been really good but I just use it for homeowner stuff. Sometimes a tree fell over out driveway.

Onetime I was away at work and a tree fell over the driveway. The wife couldn't leave for work. My neighbor then had to borrow my saw to complete the task of clearing the small tree. Worst day ever..
My saw seemed to have survived the ordeal.

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>>2943955
Yes but to be clear I'm talking about gas chainsaws

>>2936924
Silky is amazeballs just used one of their folding saws on an extended camping trip

>>2937301
i have a shitty amazon pruner saw as well, its too floppy. My boss has a notch saw that's much better.

>>2936924
silky cuts real nice but if you are not using it all the time professionally the notch saw would be fine. I dont like the jamison saw head like the other guy, its too flimsy.

>>2943582
>fell a 15" tree with a sawzall
now the crackheads are stealing my trees

>>2935829
I just bought a Proyama 63cc saw
Haven't used it yet. How'd i do?

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luv me 550xp mk2

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also luv me 542i xp

Having trouble maintaining my stihl. Because they are expensive, shops charge extra to service them just because they can.

Maybe the blade is blunt, maybe the bar needs dressing, but I can't tell, or work out how well I've done either. Are carbide chains a meme? I figure if you can't sharpen them then you'll end up using them blunt for as long as you'll use them sharp.

Also if you overheat a bar and it blues, Is the bar useless? I imagine it would just harden the metal

Got a stihl yard boss, their smallest model.

Despite being less powerful, I find that just means that it takes longer to cut large logs rather then being incapable of doing so. I've cut hardwood which was more then a foot across. Possible unsafe, not ideal, but I'll just put it out there that the saw cost less than calling a tradesman out to remove a fallen tree, so i got my money back on the first day I bought it.
And because it's very light, even with a larger chainsaw, I think you'd still find yourself picking up the small one half the time because you just didn't need more power.

Also the sawzall is very powerful and given how thin the blades are they may far neater, faster cuts. The blades tend to bend if you abuse them but an electric sawzall with a wood saw blade is an entirely legitimate choice for garden use and pruning. Because you can also sterilise the blade

>>2943151
I never understood these kinds of operations, it just doesn't make sense.

Because as you identified yourself the cost and difficulty maintaining chains outweighs any benefit you might get.

For almost all applications you want a band saw, that's what they are for. They weigh very little and are typically diesel electric. I think you can get gas ones. I would chainsaw two boards simply to build a chute to install the band saw on, and band saw every subsequent board.

And felled timber typically needs to be watered and aged for weeks or it will just split and warp. So unless your boards are for some kind of temporary construction, again, your actual logging station, it just don't get it.

This is the type of equipment you always hire, so you fell your wood, haul it into the open, then when it's ready you hire a trailer mounted band saw for the weekend.

Think of how many boards worth of wood you're losing simply to the width of the chainsaw blade, and what the inability to set depth means. Because there's a pattern you cut boards to in order to maximise the usable amount of timber. If you cut cut straight through in one direction you will loose half the value of the wood to boards which are too thin, too narrow. Not to mention issues with the heartwood drying at a different rate and again, just splitting the boards.

>>2947470
get one of those cheapshit electric sharpeners you bolt on table and grab couple extra chains
makes life so much easier to just slap new fresh chain than starting to file those shits in the woods
and remember to file your rakers too
>inb4 hurr git gut ur ruin ur chains
don't care i just buy cheap shit chains

>>2947472
the benefit is that it works in a remote place in the woods where you don't have a sawmill

>>2938094
Nah get fucked. The electric chainsaws have very little power, the batteries drain faster than you can recharge them, they're very heavy relative to their power and most of the cost is in the proprietary batteries.

They're bathtub curb junk, you spend $800 and in two years your chainsaw is worth $300, and in four years it's obsolete and you have to buy knock off Chinese batteries.

The only thing I recommend in electric is high RPM non impact tools. Or tools that need to be really compact. Crimpers, turf cutters, maybe domestic line trimmers

>>2947761
that's weird because I have a gas and an electric chainsaw and I love the electric as well as the gas and it has shitloads of power and is quite handy and even with the small battery it can do a lot of work. see >>2946976 >>2946974

>>2947510
I don't buy it.
The first issue is how much timber you need, because you don't need much before it becomes worth hiring a band saw. But then you'd still need quiet a lot before it was worth fucking around with a chainsaw based mill. It's a really odd amount of timber.

And then in terms of remoteness, the reliability of your machinery becomes a huge deal, and how remote are we talking when you can't get 2by4 in with a pick-up? I think you'd still just sell logs to a mill and buy the milled timber.

>>2947765
>how remote are we talking
have you ever considered there might be a reason it is called an Alaskan saw mill?

>>2947764
People say this, especially online, i don't buy it.

Last week I was working with a Milawakie electric chainsaw, a fairly high end model. Couldn't even work for an hour without it running out of battery, was going through batteries faster than I could charge them. With a gas saw, for $40 you buy a jerry can of fuel and can go all day. How many batteries do you need to buy to achieve that? This is precisely why builders use compressed air, it's just not feasible to charge that many batteries on site at once, let alone carry them /out/.

And in terms of power, no contest. My shittiest gas saw is twice as fast as the most expensive electric.

Initially, what conceals the difference is that electric chainsaws often come with new carbine blades, cut into odd blade profiles, and the electric ones never see many hours. They're usually too new to suffer bar and chain wear, engine issues. But you put a hundred hours on an electric, suddenly you get the same issues as the gas saw. And my shittiest gas saw was only $200 and has cut down two foot hardwood trees. Not recommended, but if you're willing to abuse it, yes it has that ability.

>>2947767
buy a husqvarna professional series saw, not a TTI attempt to expand a battery platform into an area it wasn't designed to exist

>>2947766
There's a numerical issues here, number of planks/ number of miles. Even in Alaska if I needed that many planks I'd still get a band saw, and a big part of that is reliability and the cost of blades.

The only thing I'd build with a chainsaw mill is a loggers cabin, simply to set up a band saw in the next season when the plantation was clear for logging. Maybe a boat pier, frontier buildings.

>>2947769
ur a retard who has never built anything

>>2947770
I do a fair bit of farm building, mostly pole side barns, gates, fences, animal enclosures. And yes, I do that mostly with a chainsaw or a sawzall.

So knowing that, even having the chainsaw there in my hand, I still don't find myself cutting boards, and if I did I'd probably need so many that I still wouldn't waste time and materials trying to do that with by petrol saw.

Stihl
Buy once
Cry once

>>2947774
>idiotic phrases
>just say them repeatedly

>>2947774
new stihls have gone overboard with the emissions systems, husky is where it's at.

>>2947471
yeah a sawzall is so fucking handy i took down a tree that was growing too close to my girlfriends garage it had an old chainlink fence embedded in it so i topped it with the chainsaw and sawzalled the trunk with the fence no prob

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>>2947781

>>2947794
t. boomer who hasn't used a new saw

>>2947769
Do you know how expensive and labor intensive it is to transport large machinery in the middle of nowhere? A large seaplane or cargo heli might be your only options. And first you need to bring in atv + trailer or snowmobile + sledge and build a trail for it. Then imagine that its not even your own saw and you need to take it back. Using a chainsaw mill starts to sound reasonable pretty fast if you dont live out there permanently and need all that shit anyways.

>>2947804
this is 4chan, you have to remember you are likely arguing with someone who has zero life experience doing any of the stuff they say they are doing.

>>2947790
Initially I thought using a sawzall on a tree was clown tier, but no. The blade is for times thunner then a chainsaw chain, costs ten times less, and it's ten times more powerful than a wood saw.

Sure it's limited in what it can do, but It makes clean cuts so I use mine for orchard pruning

>>2947804
But are we talking about the 1% use case of a deep Alaska frontier expedition?

I'm saying the chainsaw mill is stupid because the number of boards needed by anyone using them, it's worth getting the mill. You lose much less wood, it's more fuel efficient, the blades are cheaper and easier to sharpen. The band saw exists for milling, the chainsaw exists for felling.

And in terms of remote, well if you can get a Jeep in, it's not really remote enough to support the LARP vision of cabin building. Drive as close as possible, pack the mill in like a howitzer. If it's taking you two years to build a cabin, you'd regret trying to do it with a chainsaw mill in about a month.

>>2943151
this is fucking awesome

I just use a McCulloch I got for free from a farmer when I moved in, I keep it happy and it keeps me happy.

>>2947781
that's weird way of spelling echo

Any tips on carb tuning without a tach? I have an 026 and a 440 that are new to me.

I use a 550 Mk2 and a 462 at work and even going back a few years I've not had to deal with anything that wasn't some kind out auto-tune, except an 880 but and old timer looks after that one.

>Husqvarna 550 XPG Mk 2 with a 13" blade
specifically bought the XPG because of the heated handle bars, in -20C it makes a world of difference
13" bar because i dont need more
mostly cut birch, rowan, aspen, fir, and pine
sometimes a smaller oak tree or other various leaf trees get the saw

it just works, and works well for all my needs
considering to buy an electric husqvarna at some point, 542i xpg or something idk