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some oc

>>2944099
I got a question for machinists

Why is it that you guys can cut titanium to fractions of a human hair width with crazy amount of repeatability

But none of you guys seemed to make a marriage last?


How’s it feel knowing that you see a Burned in CRT screen on a machine control that’s going to be in a scrap yard after you die more than you see your children?

>>2944099
>Ignore Sieg
That's some good advice right there...

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Has anybody here tried out a desktop CNC machine like a DMC2 or Carvera? I know they're less than ideal for steel, but the idea of being able to fabricate metal parts in my garage is very appealing.

>>2944128
HAHAHA OMG HOLY SHIT WOW

THIS GUY REALLY HAS YOUR NUMBER LMFAO

AND THE WAY HE HITS ENTER TWICE AFTER WRITING ONE SENTENCE ON A LINE IS JUST THE ICING ON THE CAKE

HAHAHAHA WEW

>>2944326
>Has anybody here tried out a desktop CNC machine like a DMC2 or Carvera?

Not personally, but i was witness to people attempting to use them.

>I know they're less than ideal for steel

Won't keep you from buying one and trying it.

>but the idea of being able to fabricate metal parts in my garage is very appealing.

If you're fine with aluminium and it looking like a rodent chewed it out, sure, you can "fabricate" metal parts with that.

Now go buy one and be disappointed. Why did you even ask.

>>2945184
because he was hoping
you're right but there's no need to be prissy about it
adopting a more positive, less sarcastic outlook will fortify yourself as well

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>>2944326
Me being me, I'm waiting for those spark generators from rack robotics to get some reviews then I'm building a wire EDM. Safest machine to use as long as you don't touch anything.

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>>2944099
and the next contestant on How Bad Could It Possibly Be? is the $125 scamazon 10" chuck

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>>2945846
ranked by order of importance
>scroll fit on body hub 9.3/10
>lower jaw fit in body grooves 6.6/10
>top jaw fit on lowers 4.2/10
>scroll and gear finish 6.1/10
>component hardness 6.8/10
>pinion fit and finish 5.0/10
>burrs 4.2/10
>grit and dirt 3.8/10
>overall finish 5.9/10
>hardware 1.6/10
total scored 4.9
adjusted for chink expectations 6.5-7.0
the plastic scroll retainer isnt my favorite thing but really shouldnt see any load by design

>>2945850
>plastic scroll retainer
lmao

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has anyone dared to try this thing

How much does a brand new lathe and mill depreciate in value?

>>2945859
Only at least a few tens of thousands of people. There's reams of information on the 7x lathes out there.

I used to have one. It was okay. My biggest complaint was that the gib on the...either the cross slide or compound, I forget which, fit terribly in the dovetail. So badly that it allowed the tool to suddenly tip downward by like a full mm in a "heavy" cut. It was usable if you only ever took cuts light enough to avoid that problem, but that made things painfully slow (not to mention surface finish issues). Apparently that's not too uncommon a problem and I planned to fix it, but I scored a great deal on a 2000lb 14" lathe with fixable gearbox problems and sold the mini.

Would I buy again? Hate to admit it, but yes. Take that with a grain of salt, though. Now that I have other, much larger equipment, it's far easier for me to fix any problems it has than someone who's stuck with the mini as their only machine tool. Also, I bought my 7x14 when the more "premium" versions were like $800 including accessories. HF is currently selling the smaller 7x12 for that much and I can't even tell if that comes with a drill chuck for the tailstock.

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>>2945859

My work got this vevor lathe as an impulse buy and even as a cheap stuff enthusiast I think it was a mistake. I picked it up for free from them a bit ago and honestly will probably never use it for anything.

>>2945850
burs are easy to fix, dirt can be cleaned, even if they are annoying
i usually consider them unfinished hardware

>>2945912
yep sop. took about an hour to clean up. its my 5th chinkchuck so far. the best was a 6" i bought circa 2007. the jaws are glass hard and it clamps within .0015 across the full range
i have to murder another old chuck to cannibalize the d1-6 backplate before i get to assess the true functionality of this one

>>2944326
did you order 1 yet?

>>2945184

Nah fuck this guy, those cavers airs take some monster cuts… guy I know has a corn cob rougher on his, and a 14” 1” 3 flute finish mill to do tool steels a lot of horsepower and just uses 120v super worth it

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>>2945850
it only appears to be the 3rd chuck that has lived on this backplate

What's the best free offline CAD software?
Have done 2 gymnasium courses with Autodesk inventor and I'm doing one with solidworks right now, but since they're p2w i most likely won't be using them for hobby purposes.

>>2949378
freecad 1.0 is kinda good, and 1.1 is about to go out this month probably, and its supposed to get all the good stuff that couldnt make the cut of the 1.0

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Taking a community college machining class, made my first chips today. Looking forward to really getting into it next week.

>>2949972
I look back with fondness at the time in my life when that was me. Make some friends anon, don't stress too much and enjoy it.

>>2949997
Basically what I'm doing, this class is a side dish to a welding associate's so I can actually have fun with it - though honestly I find machining way more interesting and enjoyable than welding, and would probably switch majors to it, but the job prospects are a lot worse afaik.

The friends part is kinda iffy, I'm friendly with a few guys in my classes but they're mostly zoomers straight out of high school and I'm old enough that it wouldn't even be that weird for me to be their dad. My teachers are more like people I'd hang with though, and weirdly my welding instructor is a girl a year younger than me and totally my type which is pretty awkward, it's a lot of work holding myself back from hitting on her.

Picked up a sherline 4400 lathe and the matching mill, along with a lot of tooling, for very little. The previous owner used them for rc cars and steam engine models.

I don't have a real use for it but the price was too good to pass up and it seemed fun. Other than being tiny they seem very highly regarded. For what I paid they're cool conversation pieces of nothing else.

Does anyone have a good idea for some starter projects? I have pretty much all the accessories other than cnc parts, the rotary table, and the threading tool. I will probably buy the threading tool since honestly using a micro lathe as a threader seems pretty useful and setup seems easy.

So far the only practical thing I've done is face some rough cut aluminum and brass rounds. I make challenge coins on a fiber laser and its hard to find decent quality brass blanks nowadays that aren't 1.5" or smaller. However this lathe doesn't have the oomph to part something that thick easily so I use a bandsaw.

I do have a onefinity I use for aluminum and brass sometimes but no real manual machining experience other than wood.

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>>2944099
why the fuck is it "machinery's handbook" and not "machinist's handbook" or "machinery handbook."

>>2950549
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gdaXdSvKHzk

>>2950579
that's interesting.

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if i bought two alibaba sliding tables and bolted them to an L shaped pipe frame, would that be a viable mill ?

>>2950633
You would need something with a good spindle able to take side loading and an acceptable range of spindle speeds...

Might make for a fun little surface grinder though... Bolt an angle grinder or regular motor with grinding wheel to it. Throw a cheap may chuck on there and start throwing steel at mach 2.

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>>2950633
L-shaped wouldn't have the rigidity to mill much, but you might be able to get somewhere if you triangulate out the column kinda like pic related (super rough mockup)

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>>2944326
>DMC2
You can do steel with dmc2, because it's frame is steel. I have a genmitsu 3030 prover max with a 110V 1.5KW ER11 spindle and it can do steel, even with it's anemic stock spindle and aluminum plates. Rigidity is key for steel.

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>>2945859
>>2945867
don't bother with these Chinese toys.

get a PW lathe. yes it's expensive. but they are worth it. they are actual lathes not toys for wood/plastic

>>2950817
Those are basically the same chinese toys everyone else sells. Ordered to a higher spec and then gone through and the fit and finish is polished up and everything checked over real well.

>>2950817
Of course those are the bigger chinese lathes rather than the mini lathe. But Jet, Grizzly, and Enco and a few others are good options for those sizes as well.

>>2944099
would this be wacky? getting two cheapo 10lb weight plates, true the edges on both of them on my home lathe and then put a radius on either side of each plates corner so the two plates can come together and form a tube bending die. i probably wont do it

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People seem to think it's a small lathe meaning you can make small parts. I often use the biggest lathe at work for the smallest parts because it provides greater rigidity, stability, and control. You get none of that in these small import lathes unless you pay for it. PM seems to be the only real option for import benchtop lathes that I've found.

FWIW, if you live in the US just find a south bend 9 in lathe and throw it in the back of a uhual truck, you can find them for the same price as these toy lathes.

I guess it ultimately boils down to what you want to do.
>Do you want a project lathe to finish, that still might be garbage?
OR
>Do you want to use a lathe to make parts?

>>2950844
>They are basically the same
>Except they are completely different
wat

>>2950846
The vevor one, grey m100 is 8.7" x 29.5" for $1500 USD.
The orange one isn't even worth mentioning imo.
The lowest cost PM is 10"x22" and is similar size to the vevor but significantly different.

>But Jet, Grizzly, and Enco and a few others are good options for those sizes as well.
A lot of them have the same problems. They still need some work unless you're getting a non-bench lathe. The PM is the only one I've ever seen that just works with promised accuracy out of the box. I've went down this route 4 times with bench lathes for work, a cheap Chinese lathe, a cheap Taiwan lathe, a Grizzly, and a Sherline. I spent more money on each lathe than the cost of a fully kitted PM 10"x22" + tooling to have comparable machines. Yes I was able to sell the "upgraded" machines and get most of the shops money back but trust me buying the PM 10"x22" was worth every penny. If I could go back I'd have bought the PM and never messed with the others. If you could get the same dimensional accuracy as the PM with medium or minimal effort, I would argue to get the cheap options every time. It's just not worth it for how much work is required.

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so I already have some plates. I got my idea cause I used a plate to make a bending die for square tube. for a round die I think im gonna use 5lb plates because they are only 7.25" diameter and thats a good radius for the round tubes I want. I think i will make a mandrel these will fit on and then turn them both at the same time. I would like for one edge be 1/2 for 1" tube and it would be nice for the other side to work with 7/8. Im trying to think how i will make the bending side, maybe get another larger piece of tube with a thick wall that 1" tube will fit into and then cut it in half.

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>>2950814
>only $2500
convince me not to run a DMC2 mini in an apartment.
if I get some sound proofing foam the noise shouldn't be too bad

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>>2950971
>convince me not to run a DMC2 mini in an apartment.
No. DMC2 is legit a good machine. Fuck your neighbors. You can probably get away with using it there.

>if I get some sound proofing foam the noise shouldn't be too bad
Take the box it comes in, picrel, and add foam.
see https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Yxa8HH3t_Ds

>295096nein
>295097won
>295100too
go shill your trash toy elsewhere

someone's cranky

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im going to use a 2" pipe nipple for the mandrel probably a cap too for the center to get on. Ill open these center holes to 2.25 and then turn the pipe down to fit. im trying to keep this low cost and im trying to think of something menards would sell thats big enough i can use as a bushing. maybe bearings from amazon.

>>2951058
for the clamp die I have some 2" wide 3/16 lengths and I will stack a bunch together, weld the sides and cut the middle out with whatever size hole saw and then cut that in half. for the wiper I might do the same

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>>2950846
Man, I can't speak for the others, but IDK about Jet. My school has four brand new ones, my class is the first to ever use them. (Along with one other period of the same class.) One of those four machines is already broken down with some kind of electrical problem. "My" machine has more backlash than you'd hope for in a brand new machine despite all the controls being a little stiff, and seems less rigid than it ought to be, plus the fancy-looking DRO isn't that reliable either. It's not just me saying that either, the instructors seem pretty underwhelmed too. They're an improvement over the completely clapped out WW2-era machines they replaced but pretty shit for a machine you or I would pay almost 20k for.

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to make the bushing I will modify two caps, turning them down and center drilling them. since they have such a big OD I decided to not bother turning the pipes diameter, only to just get it straight. I haven't cut a radius on a lathe and im wondering how I should cut a hhs bit. I only have 3/8 hhs so I was thinking about making a left right and middle profile or welding like 3 togther. im not sure.

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like this was an idea where I would take 3 hhs blanks (I have a lot), tig them together, and then trace and cut out my radius and then trim down to the holder, my 3/8th lantern style holder

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Im gonna give this a go. why not

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>>2951242
>form tool over 1" wide
>with a reduced shank
>on a lantern toolpost
>on a lathe that small

My lathe is significantly bigger and it still wouldn't much like to be putting that thing into anything harder than plastic.

>>2951215
>>2951242
>>2951247

Yeah that's gonna chatter like a motherfawker... At least use it as a guide to cut out the majority of it with a cut-off tool or other standard lathe bit before even trying to plunge that in there.

>>2951077
>almost 20k
Lol. Yeah they overpaid for that shit. Grizzly is 8600 for the same basic thing. Precision Matthews is 10k. Probably some "college education government discount" bullshit where they jack the price up 2x so someone's cousin can pocket some money.

>>2951250
The school paid less (about 16k with DRO and a service contract - apparently a pretty shit one since they still haven't come and fixed it 3 weeks later - etc.). $20k is about what the same lathe lists for with similar options for a normal buyer.

On that note, there's also some fucked runout in the chucks, but idk if that's down to the school's install or the lathe itself. One of the other students was having some kind of issue so they got out an indicator and there was a couple of thou in the chuck that was turning into like 5 thou at the end of the workpiece. Not sure the numbers on mine but I'm getting a weird taper and broke two center drills (which probably fucked my part, but I can remake that fast if they'll let me send it with the cut depth), and watching them it sure as hell looked like it wasn't lining up concentric like it should have been.

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>>2951247
Yeah i cant cut it. The lathe is too small, the cutter is too big, the hardness got runied, and the carriage runs into the plate. Sometime I will get an amazon carbide assortment and retry it

i enrolled in college for a 2 yr machining program and got accepted into a tool and die RAP. we're building an injection mold die and testing it out in class. really satisfies my 'tism

>>2952483
Machining isn’t difficult it’s meant to literally children to manufacture products in a overhead belt driven machine factory with wood floors and no fire escapes

Go to school for something cooler like nursing or electrical engineering

>>2951247
Have yountried giving it blue chew? Heard that makes it more ridgid

>>2944099
Why do machinists brag about being able to program or know cad? Are there really that many button pushers in this industry to where that’s all that is needed to be impressive?

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Does anyone have experience with watchmakers lathes? My main interest is making small models and projects. tiny engine, pens, watch/clockwork, jewellery, ect. All the videos i see make them look incredibly satisfying to work with. Im just not sure if this is a bad way to get my foot in the door with machining.

>>2953502
I have one that I got on a pallet of junk at an auction. It's in a trailer with some other stuff I'm probably going to sell, but your post gave me an idea that I could probably adapt a drill chuck to it, and use a die grinder or rotary shaft grinder on the toolpost and make a pin/punch grinder out of it...

>>2951256
Seems to me the student's didn't clean the spindle nose/chuck mount when changing chuck's.
What kind of mounting system is on there?

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Currently working on some bushes made from this stuff, some kind of composite material about which i couln't find much information. It's called tribo top

just got a job at an auto machine shop
now make the same amount i made at the grocery store lol

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I would like to recreate Cristofle cutlery for my wife. Unfortunately they only come in silver coated, so even if i had too much money, they're unusable for me.
So my idea was to diy. 3d print a hull that keeps blank stainless cutlery in place, engrave and repeat.
My makerspace has proudly acquired a makera, would that be powerful enough for this kind of engraving work? I've read quite a few negative experiences regarding round shapes and keeping the spindle on track without breaking end mills in the process.
If that all works, do i need to add renew finishes or is stainless steel cutlery really "just" stainless steel? If it isn't the later, can one even do the necessary processes at home?
Last but not least, am i completely off and should look into laser engravers?
My experience with metal so far is basically just ordering sheet metal, so please bear with me.

>>2953551
I think it's a camlock. As far as I know no student has ever changed the chuck, these have only been in use by students for a few weeks and our class has never fucked with them but I don't know what the other one is up to, they've been way harder on the machines than us in general and there are some suspicious scratches that appeared on one of the ways under the chuck between times I used the machine so who knows. They're also unpronounceable Chinese mystery meat chucks though so they might just be shit.

>>2953612
You probably know more about random useless bullshit now too

Which letters of tungsten carbide inserts does a 987654321 kennametal boring bar take and got hrc 42069 hardened tool steel feeds and speeds

Highest stress fucking job for minimum fucking wage

>>2953773
nah i havent touched any machines yet im just knocking out freeze plugs. throwing shit in the parts washer, and dollying engine blocks around the whole building because the lift cargo lift is broken

Machining class anon here

I have a really hard time not saying "Sneed" whenever we talk about feeds & speeds or chucks.

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Are the YAMAWA taps on aliexpress legit?
They've got great photos showing the boxes with correct model numbers and the prices don't appear to be *too cheap* to scream a scam.
Are they just copies?
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005009594713520.html

I've managed to find some pretty decent taps on aliexpress so far but it does seem like a bit of a hit and miss.

>machining diploma
>3 years experience
>head programmer
>supervisor
>5 machinists under me
>$29/hr
Should I be happy

>>2954556
i bought a bunch of the uncoated sprial point. theyre fakes. the package is just slightly off like most of the good counterfeit shit. they werent that cheap. like $6-8ea for under 6mm
the only failure ive had was one single m3. it cut about 8 turns down into an an aluminum part on its very 1st hole them sheared off perfectly square. luckily i was watching and instantly got the spindle stopped. best i can tell it was a heat treat crack at the thread root. now im gun shy and waiting for another to do it and assfuck me

>>2954622
>the package is just slightly off like most of the good counterfeit shit
I see. Now that you mention it I don't think I can quite match all the model numbers to the ones on Yamawa website, the numbers look similar but don't quite match.
I guess it would be better to try and find a good quality Chinese brand for a better value for money option? It's a shame, I know that <$5 high quality taps exist out there but I just have to find them.

>>2954781
Victor machinery has always been good for taps and drill bits for me. Or you can always score deals on e-bay, but you might have to piecemeal them together from different sellers.

>>2954619
No kys rite now

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sunday night steady rest shenanigans in 4140ht
used the bitchcrane because ima bitch and wont hold 53lbs of 3" roundbar out in front of me like i used to stupidly do

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absolute retard beginner here, how the fuck do I get the mill bit out of the collet holder ?
I have loosen it, but at a certain point the black ring don't want to turn further, it seems collet and milling bit should be loose by that point but everything is frozen solid.

>>2955018
Based. I picked up some of those Simplicity cabinets from an auction a while back. Don't use Harbor Freight degreaser on them to clean them up unless you want to turn the paint to soup... Dunno what kind of paint is on them, maybe an acrylic of some kind?

>>2955097

Is it an ER collet? You notice how there's an eccentric ring that you have to snap the collet into within the retention nut? That's there to pull the collet out. The first crack when you try to loosen the the nut is the nut itself loosening, it will turn maybe 1/2 turn or so then bind again. That's it starting to pull on the nut. Just use the wrench on it and it should come out pretty easily.

The taper angle on ER collets is just about self-locking. It's normal for them to bind loosely when tightened.

>>2955110
>That's it starting to pull on the nut.
*pull on the collet

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>>2955110
So the inner black circle should separate from the outer retention nut ?
Sorry anon I am ery dumb, what do I have to do with the wrench ?

>>2955110
>>2955114
Ok I got it out, I checked with a bore scope that the threaded hole in the CM3 was not blind and I hammered the bit with a rod. The bit was hot from the friction, strange.
I think my mistake is to not have removed the chink cosmoline from the collet, I'll put all of them in a good ultrasonic bath of WD-40

>>2955114

Just keep trying to unscrew the nut (put it in the machine if you don't have a good way to grab the toolholder) and it should come loose pretty easily. If it doesn't, something's wrong. Leftover rust preventative might make it a little stickier, but you shouldn't have to put much force on the wrench at all.

>>2955097
She the black ring stops turning, smack the wrench with the palm of your hand and it will yank it out of the taper , then put the nut flat on the table and use your thumbs to push on the collet and it’ll pop out of the collet nut

I trained about 30 teenagers on these things

>>2955149
>put it in the machine to hold it

Good way to fuck up your spindle

>>2955187

If you have to crank on a fucking ER collet holder hard enough that you're worried about your spindle, you're either doing something horribly wrong or there's something horribly wrong with your holder.

I'm making a table for my desktop CNC mill, I've used 3/4" MDF for the table surface and plan to put an thin MDF backboard. What should I cover the surface with for protection from chips and oil? Vinyl sheeting?

I'd use acrylic or lexan sheets if it wasn't stupid fucking expensive at home depot.

>>2955204
>I'd use acrylic or lexan sheets if it wasn't stupid fucking expensive at home depot.

Do not buy any material that isn't wood from a big box store. The markup is unreal, like 6x or more what a "real" supplier would charge.

Anyway, a sheet of steel or aluminum would be best. Anything else won't really hold up that well, long-term. Of course, if you're only using it as a hobbyist, it's not really going to matter what you use. When I had a mini lathe, it was just sitting on an unfinished plywood bench. Used it infrequently for a few years, worst that happened is the bench picking up a few stains.

>go set that by the green machine, anon
>wh-
>sorry, gotta go bye
This motherfuker is trolling me, every fucking machine here is green

>>2955199
Non-machinist material handlers leave racks of cat40/bt40/cat50/bt50/bt30/hsk63a whatever tooling outside

Office staff had renishaw omp 40-2 and 60 probes in card board boxes tossed loose together 10k+ of them

So yeah if you work in a machine shop with nobody but engineers and machinists it’s clean and everything is done right

The second you hire a fuck tard who doesn’t see the difference in the different “drill bits” and sticks them all in a cardboard box and sets it outside

Everything goes to shit

>you see that blinking light
>the machine needs blinker fluid
Gotten

>>2955480
They know that’s a lie

What I like to do is give a guy a piece of HSS and have him look around the shop for low speed steel

>>2955204
Put rubber matt or that washing machine matt under your machine.

Why do we need a Japanese word for having a suggestion box and reviewing production processes?

>>2955788
Also, I think it's just so management can move machines around so it looks like they're doing something.

>>2955788
Kaizen/5S is actually a really good fucking process

It’s just that the Mexicans can’t really interpret Japanese intellect properly and the Americans boiled it down to bejng lazy

When Toyota does it it’s superior, clean workshop, spotless floors, shared parts amongst production lines and less injuries

In America trash everywhere , day laborers doing the shit and ineffectual management largely due to the Hispanic population and the American wokeism that leans toward hiring women

In Japan it’s still very racist and strict

I've got a mulcher which the main axle keeps taking hits and blowing out the keyway and mashing the belt wheel.
Now the fit looks like a whores asshole and I'm risking a critical failure operating it.

The axle and main rotor are a single part so that keyway just keeps taking massive impacts and i don't know what to do about that. Stop throwing huge shit into a tiny mulcher, yea. But it's a very powerful 4 stroke so dollar on cent I'm still going to run it like that even at the cost of the axle because it would be 8k to get a larger model.

Somehow I need to reinforce that axle/ belt wheel interface so it can stand up to the impact even if I've got to weld the whole thing into a brick.

Any guidance?

>>2956301
>I've got a mulcher which the main axle keeps taking hits and blowing out the keyway and mashing the belt wheel.

Take pics of what you are talking about... Are you talking about a wood chipper/shredder? When I hear someone say "mulcher" I think of a culti-packer, which makes zero sense in regards to how you are explaining it.

>>2956303
Yea it's a chipper shredder. The shredder assembly is all one piece and had a rectangular keyway for a bit of bar stock that functions as the key.

Problem is that the engine is too powerful for the unit and the rotor really isn't heavy enough for a chipper, that's the trade off of having a shredder and a chipper as a single machine. So when you chip things the axle takes too much impact, which blows out the keyway especially if the fit between the keyway, key and wheel isn't good.

I can weld up the keyway and get a new key but it'll just keep happening unless I can get a good fit or reinforce it somehow

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>>2956307
do you have a lathe?
building up a shaft and cutting it back is mediocre because the weld is soft plus you usually end up with a stress riser where the weld starts
a new 1045 shaft or even better made from 4140ht tgp will exceed whatever butteralloy the mfg used. then upgrade to a new taper lock hub sheave and seat it with green loctite on the shaft interface

>>2956309
>building up a shaft and cutting it back is mediocre because the weld is soft plus you usually end up with a stress riser where the weld starts
That was my concern, going down that route.

Milling out the belt wheel and putting pic relate in the belt wheel would get a much better fit, but getting a better alloy axle is our because the original one is welded solid to the whole rotor assembly and at that point I'd be building a whole rotor assembly from scratch and I'm worried it wouldn't balance.

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>>2956312
>pic
404
you need a better sheave that grips the shaft better. qd hubs with a flange is excellent. taperlok with no flange is good too. the shaft needs to be within .001" of nominal hub diameter and clean no oil at all. loctite like i said above is even better yet. that will hold on a rebuilt welded up shaft if lathe turned
stick welding it and using an angle grinder will not get it round enough for a taper seat hub to grip

>>2954619
Compare to me. Truck driver 6 months ago, hired as a machine operator. Zero experience in the field. Making $32 an hour.

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Anyone have any experience with this style of inside mic? I pretty regularly have to machine slot features to tolerances that I don't trust calipers for, but don't necessarily warrant the precision and time consumption of gauge blocks. The other option I'm considering is a set of adjustable parallels, but I figure the cost of a set from a reputable maker would cost nearly as much as the micrometer anyway.
>>2954121
My supervisor for a few years was a man named Sneed. The first few weeks were agonizing, but I managed to acclimate over time.
>>2950549
I just call it a da bibble.

>>2956477
Fuck, you should've made him a sign that said "Sneed's Feeds and Speeds"
"Formerly 3-Jaw Chuck's"

>>2956307
How often do you need to take it apart? Just to service the bearings? I'm saying this, because sometimes the farmer fix of welding the fucking thing solid is about as good as it gets.

Rebuild the shaft, put a new keyway in and get the fit as good as you can, then put a nice weld around the entire pulley right to the shaft. If it needs serviced in the future you just gotta grind that weld off and it's free to come apart.

Taper lock pulley like other anon mentioned would also be much less likely to slip and bung up the keyway than a normal pulley with set screws.

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I bought my first lathe. It came with a bunch of attachments and a tool chest full of different cutters and grinders and collets ect. Im going to clean it up some before i move it out to the shop.

>>2956495
Noice

Kekd

>>2956618
Is there some mechanism for carriage feed that isn't visible, or is it just crossfeed and compound?

milling machine retard >>2955114 here, first thing I've done and it came out nicely, make the inside of that telescope ring circular and of the diameter of my tube.
Runout under 1/10 mm, way enough. I am happy that telescope ring is sooo squishy but if I don't tension the chuck enough the ring will slip. And you cant put a thing that has features at each 90° inside a 3 jaws chuck...

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>>2956742
fug

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Nice fit, I machined it with 3 washers between the two halves where it closes at 148mm for a diameter of 147mm for the telescope

>>2956742
>>2956745
ditch the chuck and clamp it down on the faceplate of the rotab with toe clamps
you can screw down a piece of plywood under it and cut a boss on it to just fit the id so its trapped centered

>>2956748
>ditch the chuck and clamp it down on the faceplate of the rotab with toe clamps
that was the first plan, but that means I have to center it so I preferred to use the afternoon to clean the rotary table, the chuck, put it all together, bolt it, than spending 20min to center it kek.
>you can screw down a piece of plywood under it and cut a boss on it to just fit the id so its trapped centered
Oh I see, I can get a rough but good enough centering with that, it's aluminium casting anyway and the original ring is very oval, almost a centimeter on the 140mm it is supposed to be.

>>2956750
the trick to centering everything is an indicator held in the spindle
dial in on the od of the rotab faceplate by turning the indicator around the edge. lock the table since i ass u me theres no dro
now you can lightly clamp your part down nd bump it in as you indicate it while turning the spindle
this all should go quicker than youd think

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>>2956751
Thanks for the tip anon, i'll try that for other, smaller parts, the ring is almost the size of my turn table that dodgy as fuck and i'll smash into the clamps with the tool holder, that being before the part smashes into my teeth.

>>2956709
Its just the crossfeed and compound. Its a watchmakers lathe. Im pretty limited on space and i liked the way this one looks. Just gonna have to work on small projects for now but at least im getting started with something.

>>2956841
looks really cool, ngl
how are you going to powert it?

>>2956618
Shaublin are very high quality, well done.

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>>2956868
>>2956876
Thanks, its
Ive got a small 3 phase motor with a vfd and a counter shaft to run all the cool accessories from. Everything is belt driven which is pretty neat. Its got a grinding and milling attachment for the cross slide

Id like to build a box or something for the vfd. It works but i would like it to be a bit nicer.

>>2956751
Hurr durrr okay whatever you coin clipping mother fucker

Update on rotor
Told to fuck off my 4 different shops
>we don't repair write off equipment
>out of warranty, buy a new one
>we don't do shitty farm mig repairs here
>no we won't mill the wheel back to metric, your lack of lathe isn't my problem
>no we won't mig up the keyway, your lack of mig isn't our problem

Genuinely didn't expect this, I just went in to ask them if they'd weld up a bit of metal. Had cash. Wasn't rude. What tradesman faux pas did I commit?

>>2956313
This was by far the best solution, and i put that to one of them when they said they couldn't just weld the keyway, and he knew what i meant but just didn't like that idea at all.
So I'm going to weld the bar stock into the keyway myself, lock tight one of those inserts you pictured into it, i can tap the threads into the wheel myself.

How to bore the belt wheel metric without any proper tools? Hand fit, careful measurements, a file, marker dye, more cold weld compound. That part is at least anchored.
/emt/ chads > assholes at local shops

>>2957284
>2957284 #
youre going to have to find a small time independent guy that works alone out of a his garage or such. only because its kinda an assache job with a high failure probability compared to standard commercial work. ask at the local independent auto parts (ie not autozone) if theres a local repairman that does heavy equipment. those guys dilligaf as long as you have cash. id do it if youre in the 123w45n gegraphic region
as far as the taperlok flange you need a matching sheave because it works like a collet to grip the shaft. the sheave has a tapered bore that compresses the hub. the qd style use a set screw but that isnt much better than what you have with the og pulley
you really need to find somebody with a welder or get a cheapie and do it yourself because cold weld epoxy is a joke for something like this unless you use $2000 devcon and even then its iffy

>>2957284
I think they probably told you to join the far queue because welding up or messing with keyways in any way shape or form is generally taboo. I mean, keyways as badly damaged as yours.

As for making it stronger, having 2 keyways on the same shaft diametrically opposed is a thing.

>>2957284
Take it to a farm repair shop. That's where the real magic happens.

>>2950817
Holy shit, the 12x28 is $5500? I remember buying a grizzly g0824 14x40 for around $6k back in 2018. Time flies.

I run a CNC machine that is really easy and only make 18.50 sigh

>>2951077
Oh yeah, update on this. Tech finally came out and fixed that machine a couple of weeks ago. Some kinda bad contactor or relay or something. The next day one of the other new Jets broke down though, and is still broken last I saw it. Staff are very unhappy with Jet.

>>2954619
See if you can get hired up in Prudhoe. They do have machine shops up there, it's 2 weeks on 2 weeks off, and they'll pay for your flights there and back for each 2 week stint. Not a good long term job, but good for nesting. 6 figures.

>>2957679
Yeah and that's with a 2axis DRO
Insane

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>>2956892
Got around to rewiring the motor. Its not very pretty but it works. Eventually il build a nicer set up but for now im still trying to get everything in good enough shape to start machining things.
I never realized how hard it is to find a place that sells stuff for machining. I couldnt even find a micrometer in person.

>>2957714
And a further update. All four machines have had various issues now. Instructor is irate. Says he's going to try and return them and get South Bends instead.

>>2948411
Yeah, they just came back in stock. Waiting on shipping now.

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Very small and easy thing
But I am a beginner it's the first thing I am doing on the milling machine. Chewing gum aluminium from the yuropoor equivalent of home depot. They sell 12mm diameter bar that is 11.5mm because nobody cares.
Drilled 2 of them through, the 3rd has a 4.5mm hole on one end and 6mm on the other end. You'll understand. I really enjoyed making it

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Drilled 2mm hole, the rolled pin is 2.2mm
Fits nicely without too much banging

>>2960923
The cable is crimped with a BIG rg58 coaxial cable crimp i am also a ham retard. I put some heat shrink tubing on it for the look after

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Job done. The white knob for the focus of the telescope is from drawer furniture. I trimmed the protruding 3mm screws after

Guys I got a new job and have to learn Heidenhain controls how fucked am I

>>2960954
meh, they are not that difficult, but its been 10 years since i used them

>>2960954
Those are nice controls, simulation built right into the software

If you told me you got a job running fanuc 0i or yasnac I’d say you were properly fucked

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If i wanted to clone an out of copyright product and send it to a machinist would it be something they could do? I am thinking of a weck razor specifically. OR will i have to draw up the schematics?

Weck Surgical Prep
Pic related.

>>2961851
Some shops will do it, but blueprint or not, you're going to be paying well into the 4 figures.

>>2961855
Not surprised milled products are expensive. I doubt they would do serial run production discounts right?

>>2961856
The main issue is that thing isn't machined, it was stamped/forged. It's going to be a nightmare if you want it exactly identical. Making more than 1 piece is pretty much always going to bring the price (per part) down but you're still talking about $2000 for 1 or $4000 for 10 kind of thing. Why do you even want to do this?

>>2961859
Well if it's not identical that's fine. I know from material differences even for the same product it ends up as a variance even with the same model.

1 Reason is for personal usage. 2nd reason is i can see selling 100 or even 1000. Sitting on the product to sell aint that big of a deal depending upon the profit that can be made. I am spit balling but the niche community of people that enjoy razors is just large enough to sell 100 pieces of something that is not being made anymore.

>>2961860
Those people aren't going to buy some random repro for the amount of money you'd have to charge for them. I'm not joking that it would be $2000 for a single one of these and that's assuming you find a shop that's even willing to do it. I'm guessing you don't have one to begin with that could even be used for reverse engineering?

>>2961863
Yeah i am boned, if i had the product on hand(extremely hard to find even with ebay). These private companies are selling 316L stainless steel razors for 250+ a pop. They only do this since they own and maintain the machine.

Thanks for the insights it gives me a fresh perspective.

>>2961851
These are usually made out of cast zamak just buy one make a mold then
Old out of zinc alloy

roller bearings on a brass sleeve
opinions on longevity

>>2962977
>roller bearings on a brass sleeve
>opinions on longevity
How fast is it spinning, what kind of load is on it?, how large of diameter is the brass sleeve/shafting? Are the roller elements running directly on the brass? All of those are factors that will effect it.

>>2962981
>how fast
it's a steering column
>diameter
1" id 1-1/4 od"
>running directly on the brass
yes that's why im wondering if I should get a steel one instead

>>2962981
would stainless steel be better?

>>2962983
>>2962995

For that kind of low speed and low load application brass would probably last forever. How much of a pain would it be to replace the brass sleeve if it does wear? Normal steels would work fine as well, and be a hell of a lot easier to work with than stainless.

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>>2963010
>How much of a pain would it be to replace the brass sleeve if it does wear?
pulling the column out of the car