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Why are battery main switches made of steel and not copper or brass? In this picture, those are just washers, not contact pads. You're supposed to screw your cable terminal between the two nuts, so the bolt itself is the conductor.
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You sure it's not coated or something? I've seen a cheap one get broken and it was all copper.
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If it's any good it will be zinc plated brass nuts and bolts.
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>>2952133
quit buying plastic chinkshit if you want good quality
the standard manual cole hersey 1/4 turn is about bombproof and of the probably 50 ive installed ive never seen one fail
flaming river makes even better ones. the big one is good for 2500a and works fine on twin mt24 starters on c15 cats with 4 8d batteries
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>>2952133
Good switches are nickel plated copper. Chinkshit might be nickel plated brass or steel, rarely copper. Ultra chinkshit might be steel as-is.
The one in your picture looks like nickel plated something.
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>>2952219
>>2952227
Looking at their catalogue, it's the same design. No busbar. Do they really make the bolts themselves out of copper? Is that not too soft of a metal? Will the plating not wear off from tightening the nuts? Or am I meant to get it right on the first try and never touch it again?
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>>2952357
It's gonna have a torque rating where it doesn't die from torque and transfers enough current reliably. But the screws are usually brass, terminals are sooner copper (nickel coated).
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>>2952357
>am I meant to get it right on the first try and never touch it again?
thats the assumption. most users have no desire to play battery cable roulette for entertainment
butter the terminations up with ox gard crank the nuts down and hope you never see it again
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>>2952133
Do not buy the chinkshit anon. I had a cheap one where the rivets were so bad the top plastic part soft as fuck too couldn't hold the bar inside and the contact was very weak as in dangerous and it arced inside, destroying the soft "copper" bar that pivots to make contact.



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