>>2953631
Like he said in the video, it's to demonstrate the material's properties. Common filaments aren't suitable for making a pressure vessel that holds boiling water.

>>2953637
>where is this data and the process for annealing?
Specific blends have their own manufacturer recommendations. 100C for 30-60 minutes is typical for HTPLA formulated for minimal-warpage annealing. There is a range of times and temperatures that cause the crystallization (cooler needs more time).
https://youtu.be/6YlGjEY7u38

>it seems like annealed PLA would be better than printed ASA in high temp applications.
Situational. It handles higher temperatures before softening, and it's stronger and stiffer, but ASA is UV-resistant, tougher, and much more creep-resistant. It is more prone to warping while printing but PLA warps when annealed, so both need attention if you want precise dimensions. Regular PLA anneals to the same heat resistance as HTPLA, but it tends to warp severely, to the degree that it's not viable for part processing unless you have a thin part still stuck to the bed. HTPLA is typically formulated to anneal with less distortion, but it still gets soft before the process is complete, so spindly structures may droop under their own weight.

I've used annealed PLA (regular stuck to the bed) to make bed scrapers that won't soften on a 100C bed, and HTPLA to make fan shrouds that can get very close to the heat block. Annealed PLA is heat-resistant enough to make desiccant containers that you can just toss in a 120C oven to dry.

What material would be best to print an onahole with?

>>2953656
Silicon.

>>2953656
dollars and amazon.

I got drunk last year and bought a Prusa XL like a retard. I'm going to print the EnXLosure DIY enclosure for it because it not having one from the start was a terrible design choice.

>>2953674
or you could get drunk buy an H2S and steal the glass door from it

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I have a P1S. I want to upgrade some stuff so that I can print better details and print more stuff. I'm not really knowledgeable about this stuff but I sort of gather I need
>hardened extruder gears
>0.2mm hot end
>0.4mm hardened hot end
>0.6mm hardened hot end (because apparently you shouldn't print CF with 0.4mm?)

Some questions:
>Are my assumptions ok?
>Is it easy to upgrade the extruder?
>Should I buy that stuff from Bambu or are there better (quality/value) aftermarket alternatives?

>Bambu Blacked Friday begins.
>16kg of filament for <£160
Do I seriously want 16kg of filament lying around....

>>2953698
what camera?

also no, you should
1. get a 0.2mm hot end, calibrate for that and use settings to get more detail. you could also do this with the 0.4mm you have.
2. ask yourself do I really NEED to print in CF or am I just playing keep up with the meme faggots on threedeepeegee?

hot ends are cheap but unless you have a real use case what the fuck are you doing? is your nozzle even worn out?

What paint do you use for PLA?

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>>2953730
acrylic minifig paint >>>/tg/wip/ for small pieces
acrylic artfag paint for household shit
you don't really need primer but
best primer is rustoleum 2x primer which you can only get at walmart, beware do not get the more common 2x paint plus primer they look almost identical
you can also get Citadel primer but it's more expensive
also pic related but I've never personally used it

>>2953698
So, the problem with this is that the P1S uses Bambu's retarded fixed hotend system. So, if you want to change the nozzle, you've got to take apart the whole thing and unplug some sensors and swap it over.
And that's if you buy the "Complete" hot end. If you just buy the hotend, you've got to take the fan off, apply some thermal compound and disconnect a thermal sensor and so on. It's not impossible, it'll take about an hour at first, and you can get that down to a few minutes once you know what you're doing.

But, it's annoying, and because it's a 0.2mm nozzle, it's going to clog sometimes and need clearing. So, you're going to be taking the hotend off a lot.

My suggest, is if you want to print 0.2mm parts, is to buy an A1 Mini, stick a 0.2mm nozzle on that, and just use that. You have two printers now, and you can have one making the fine parts (It's important to note that 0.2mm is a lot slower than 0.4mm) means the parts print about the whilst the other makes the larger parts of whatever you're putting together. The 0.2mm also has a higher chance to clog, so being able to easily take i tout and fix the clog is nice.


As for the rest.
0.4mm Hardened and 0.6mm Hardened will allow you to print CF and other abrasive materials if you use the Hardened extruder. As far as I'm aware, there's no downside to this besides swapping being a bit annoying. If you're going to do this, I would strongly suggest the "Complete" hotends. It's not hard to upgrade any of these things. But, it's annoying to swap nozzles regularly. I would advise looking into CF filaments before you print with them. It's not all Bambu's advertising.


Bambu's parts are pretty okay. The options basically come down to:
> Want to swap the nozzle easier? Go for the BIQU Panda Revo.
> Want to print faster? Go for the E3D High Flow.

Diamond/Ruby/Whatever nozzles will offer you greater durability but they're kinda just a meme unless you're planning on running your printer 24/7 for the next year

>>2953732
idk about the P1S but on the x1c you only need to swap the thermal stuff if you're cheaping out and replacing a worn out nozzle. Otherwise it's literally plug and play swapping between 0.4 and 0.2 you just have a set of thermal stuff and wires on each. Also removing the fan is literally magnets, again idk about the P1S but for the x1c swapping nozzles is toolless and practically retard proof.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZjdeBu5cWkA&t=85s

>>2953732
>>2953747
oh right, different fan you're talking about the one included in the complete hot end. still even swapping all thermal components is easier than changing the nozzle on my delta.

>>2953748
Yeah. Admittedly, it's not as bad as other printers. I just hate doing it.

x1c is $800, fuuuck if I didn't have one I'd buy one.

>>2953752
Double it and give it to the next guy.

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wtf bambu, am I supposed to get out of bed and go look at my printer for spaghetti defects and how will I know what they even are without a reference picture and explanation?

>>2953789
>buys web connected services
>complains about web connected shennanigans.

>>2953789
prints are safu

X1C on sale or P2S?

>>2953801
P2S seems kinda like a no-brainer.

>>2953789
>not immediately switching to LAN mode
shiggy

>>2953801
>P2S
how is this not X2C?

>>2953823
P2S Doesn't have LIDAR.
As to if that matters is very questionable.

>>2953823
it basically is but
>no lidar
i think that the x1c will have a heated bed.

>>2953825
>>2953826
I find the LIDAR useful, I mean most of the time it's a filament poop or a stray bit of filament trash but sometimes it's saved me time and materials.

>>2953830
The P2S's error detection is some AI-based shit that uses the camera feed to detect errors.

Couldn't tell you which is better.

>>2953830
I have both an X1C and a x-max 3.(bambu at work, xmax home)
You'd be surprised as to how little use the lidar is when it comes to calibrating flow. If you stick to a material from a specific brand, if you ever have to calibrate flow again something's gone horribly wrong(aka moisture) and it won't be solved by compensating.
At most it just makes the bed leveling slightly faster.

A friend gave me a Biqu B1 that he thinks might be broken. He lost the spool holder. I can't find a replacement one on Amazon, but I might not know what to search.
Does anyone know of where I could get one, or how I could just make one easily (without 3D printing, because this is my only FDM printer).

>>2953832
I was talking about first layer detection but yeah when I got some bad spools the filament calibration (which I normally have off) didn't do shit. I don't know that it's ever done shit. AI is fine then especially if there are less false failures.

>>2953732
NTA, but wouldn't it be better to get a MSLA printer if you're going for a dedicated fine parts printer? I get that being able to share the same stock of virgin material is a big advantage, but if you want fine details out of a print why not getting the real deal?

>>2953838
you could literally nail an old board to the wall, no you could literally nail a nail to the wall and hang the spool on it and print.

my old printer it was just a square bit of metal, not even square it was just folded to a 3 sided square and that hung on the printer.

when I don't use my AMS I set the filament in the old AMS tray with no rollers so it's literally sitting in a circular trough.

your spool holder doesn't need to be round, it doesn't even need to be inside the spool, it just needs to be above the printer.

>>2953801
Does the PS2 have a heated chamber?

>>2953840
Resin will always produce more detailed and fine parts.
But, also there's a lot of extra steps required to make resin a viable set up in whatever workflow you're doing versus just buying a cheap (likely used) A1 mini and sticking a 0.2mm nozzle on it.

>>2953844
No.

>>2953842
>your spool holder doesn't need to be round, it doesn't even need to be inside the spool, it just needs to be above the printer.
Ok, thanks. This is great to know.

Where could i pirate .stls? Since i'm unable to pay for them e.g. on cults3d.

Beside Bambu, how are the other options for multicolor printing?

>>2953973
Toolchanger setups are arguably better than Bambu AMS, and AFAIK the options are Prusa XL, Snapmaker U1, and DIY (Teaching Tech as a series of videos on modding the Sovol SV08 into a toolchanger). Prusa is stupid expensive, Snapmaker seems promising.

>>2953973
Creality and Qidi are releasing their filament multiplexers but none besides bambu have been around long enough for a reliable review of the system.

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I heard this stuff is god tier.
Does this work with injection molded ABS as well? My graphics card shroud is broken at the standoffs but since it will vibrate a lot I don't trust a hard drying super glue or similar on that

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looking for some advice
I have this sculpture im working on, i want to cast it out of concrete

my original plan was to use the blender skin modifier, print the resulting shell, and fill that with concrete, and then sacrifice the mold... though something reusable might be better, im not sure where to even begin with the mold design, it seems like it would need 4 parts maybe BACK, 2 SIDES, FRONT

Im not sure how I could do this with all the overhangs

I have a tronxy600, with a 8CUFT build space
my friend has an even bigger one with a Cubic meter of build space, ideally this thing will be a meter tall.

open to any advice or criticism

>>2953903
for functional parts make your own if you cant find it for free. If you only print dolls of pokemon then i dunno

>>2953973
prusa MMU3 is probably the best if you can get it to work well but sadly prusa overall is too overpriced even if it is quite EU based

>>2954045
strap some 120mm's to it and call it a day. its really the best mod you can do on a pc. ive got my fans at 100% gaming and can hardly hear them.gpu overclock is at max and it only hits 66 C

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Ive started getting some z-banding ,everything seems tight.Does it just need some grease? Seems like the bands line up with the darker threads

>>2954058
You can try regreasing. With leadscrews you will never really get rid of the banding, if you didn't do it yet get a pair of oldham couplers from ali.
The leadscrews on my printer were so bent the couplers were just constantly way out of center.
And check layer times in the slicer, the lines might be from that too.

>>2953698
Upgrade the bed. You want it to get hotter for some materials.

>>2954049
worry less about reducing the Number of shell part, and worry more about making them easy to remove and assemble.
2 parts for the head, 2 sides of each arm and leg, a belly and back slab that could be 1 or 2 parts each, so you can separate it and easily manoeuvre it out of the arm overhangs.
make each part pretty thick, and maybe flanged for bolting together, because that much cement is going to be HEAVY at a meter tall, especially that bulbus head.

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Portable knife sharpening jig, made from an alibay knife clamping fixture. I originally had it use two roller wheels, but after a bit of use I realised it was overconstrained for anything but a perfectly straight edged blade. These spare V-rollers are handy! But the small wheel makes it highly reliant on a smooth surface, which I probably won’t have at the repair cafe where I sharpen knives on a folding table. Also the handle isn’t too convenient, and the angle setting arm needs a lot of tightening to not slip. Ideally I’d have some holes and a peg to set a handful of common angles, but I haven’t thought how to implement that yet.

Parts printed in PLA.

>>2954059
Thanks, I had no idea about the upgraded couplers.Its a sovol sv05. Its got a anti backlash spring and 2 support bars along with the z screw. Ive seen conversions seen linear rail conversions on the ender 5 but almost everyone ive seen retain the z screw why is that?

>>2954123
If it's sv05 I'm not sure if oldham couplers will be a good solution since the lead screw isn't attached at the top it will get very wobbly. All the other upgrades like linear rail kits and stuff are kind of in the polishing the turd category, they are so expensive you might as well buy a different printer.

Bambu's flash sale emailed with a cool plate for $7.99, I jump in there and it's for the A1 mini. Assholes.

>>2954156
It prints well enough aside from the zbanding its doing now.I mostly do functional prints but not enough to justify an expensive printer .Ive priced out the x-y rails and parts at under $100. the x couldnt cost more than that? so $200 max to upgrade. is there a decent linear printer for $200?

>>2954178
I meant Z instead of X on the last part

>https://x.com/josefprusa/status/1983916072836174071
Prusa is a joke. It's clearly Thursday today.

anyone have experience w third party hardened extruder gears and hotends from temu or alix? I want to upgrade my p1p to print cf, and id like a 0.2/0.4/0.6/0.8 set too. what should i get quality-wise and to make my life easy when swapping (i expect to sit on 0.4 most of the time)

>>2954178
I was mostly talking in hindsight if you were to buy something thats 200 more expensive instead of what you currently have.
I switched my bedslinger to linear rails and belt driven Z and it all cost 232 so your math is almost spot on.
If you really want to get rid of most z banding the belts are probably the only option.
But considering how bed is mounted in sv05 i dont think thats an option.

>>2954058
Cleaning the crap out of those dark threads might just do it.