>>2953631
Like he said in the video, it's to demonstrate the material's properties. Common filaments aren't suitable for making a pressure vessel that holds boiling water.

>>2953637
>where is this data and the process for annealing?
Specific blends have their own manufacturer recommendations. 100C for 30-60 minutes is typical for HTPLA formulated for minimal-warpage annealing. There is a range of times and temperatures that cause the crystallization (cooler needs more time).
https://youtu.be/6YlGjEY7u38

>it seems like annealed PLA would be better than printed ASA in high temp applications.
Situational. It handles higher temperatures before softening, and it's stronger and stiffer, but ASA is UV-resistant, tougher, and much more creep-resistant. It is more prone to warping while printing but PLA warps when annealed, so both need attention if you want precise dimensions. Regular PLA anneals to the same heat resistance as HTPLA, but it tends to warp severely, to the degree that it's not viable for part processing unless you have a thin part still stuck to the bed. HTPLA is typically formulated to anneal with less distortion, but it still gets soft before the process is complete, so spindly structures may droop under their own weight.

I've used annealed PLA (regular stuck to the bed) to make bed scrapers that won't soften on a 100C bed, and HTPLA to make fan shrouds that can get very close to the heat block. Annealed PLA is heat-resistant enough to make desiccant containers that you can just toss in a 120C oven to dry.

What material would be best to print an onahole with?

>>2953656
Silicon.

>>2953656
dollars and amazon.

I got drunk last year and bought a Prusa XL like a retard. I'm going to print the EnXLosure DIY enclosure for it because it not having one from the start was a terrible design choice.

>>2953674
or you could get drunk buy an H2S and steal the glass door from it

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I have a P1S. I want to upgrade some stuff so that I can print better details and print more stuff. I'm not really knowledgeable about this stuff but I sort of gather I need
>hardened extruder gears
>0.2mm hot end
>0.4mm hardened hot end
>0.6mm hardened hot end (because apparently you shouldn't print CF with 0.4mm?)

Some questions:
>Are my assumptions ok?
>Is it easy to upgrade the extruder?
>Should I buy that stuff from Bambu or are there better (quality/value) aftermarket alternatives?

>Bambu Blacked Friday begins.
>16kg of filament for <£160
Do I seriously want 16kg of filament lying around....

>>2953698
what camera?

also no, you should
1. get a 0.2mm hot end, calibrate for that and use settings to get more detail. you could also do this with the 0.4mm you have.
2. ask yourself do I really NEED to print in CF or am I just playing keep up with the meme faggots on threedeepeegee?

hot ends are cheap but unless you have a real use case what the fuck are you doing? is your nozzle even worn out?

What paint do you use for PLA?

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>>2953730
acrylic minifig paint >>>/tg/wip/ for small pieces
acrylic artfag paint for household shit
you don't really need primer but
best primer is rustoleum 2x primer which you can only get at walmart, beware do not get the more common 2x paint plus primer they look almost identical
you can also get Citadel primer but it's more expensive
also pic related but I've never personally used it

>>2953698
So, the problem with this is that the P1S uses Bambu's retarded fixed hotend system. So, if you want to change the nozzle, you've got to take apart the whole thing and unplug some sensors and swap it over.
And that's if you buy the "Complete" hot end. If you just buy the hotend, you've got to take the fan off, apply some thermal compound and disconnect a thermal sensor and so on. It's not impossible, it'll take about an hour at first, and you can get that down to a few minutes once you know what you're doing.

But, it's annoying, and because it's a 0.2mm nozzle, it's going to clog sometimes and need clearing. So, you're going to be taking the hotend off a lot.

My suggest, is if you want to print 0.2mm parts, is to buy an A1 Mini, stick a 0.2mm nozzle on that, and just use that. You have two printers now, and you can have one making the fine parts (It's important to note that 0.2mm is a lot slower than 0.4mm) means the parts print about the whilst the other makes the larger parts of whatever you're putting together. The 0.2mm also has a higher chance to clog, so being able to easily take i tout and fix the clog is nice.


As for the rest.
0.4mm Hardened and 0.6mm Hardened will allow you to print CF and other abrasive materials if you use the Hardened extruder. As far as I'm aware, there's no downside to this besides swapping being a bit annoying. If you're going to do this, I would strongly suggest the "Complete" hotends. It's not hard to upgrade any of these things. But, it's annoying to swap nozzles regularly. I would advise looking into CF filaments before you print with them. It's not all Bambu's advertising.


Bambu's parts are pretty okay. The options basically come down to:
> Want to swap the nozzle easier? Go for the BIQU Panda Revo.
> Want to print faster? Go for the E3D High Flow.

Diamond/Ruby/Whatever nozzles will offer you greater durability but they're kinda just a meme unless you're planning on running your printer 24/7 for the next year

>>2953732
idk about the P1S but on the x1c you only need to swap the thermal stuff if you're cheaping out and replacing a worn out nozzle. Otherwise it's literally plug and play swapping between 0.4 and 0.2 you just have a set of thermal stuff and wires on each. Also removing the fan is literally magnets, again idk about the P1S but for the x1c swapping nozzles is toolless and practically retard proof.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZjdeBu5cWkA&t=85s

>>2953732
>>2953747
oh right, different fan you're talking about the one included in the complete hot end. still even swapping all thermal components is easier than changing the nozzle on my delta.

>>2953748
Yeah. Admittedly, it's not as bad as other printers. I just hate doing it.

x1c is $800, fuuuck if I didn't have one I'd buy one.

>>2953752
Double it and give it to the next guy.

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wtf bambu, am I supposed to get out of bed and go look at my printer for spaghetti defects and how will I know what they even are without a reference picture and explanation?

>>2953789
>buys web connected services
>complains about web connected shennanigans.

>>2953789
prints are safu

X1C on sale or P2S?

>>2953801
P2S seems kinda like a no-brainer.

>>2953789
>not immediately switching to LAN mode
shiggy

>>2953801
>P2S
how is this not X2C?

>>2953823
P2S Doesn't have LIDAR.
As to if that matters is very questionable.

>>2953823
it basically is but
>no lidar
i think that the x1c will have a heated bed.

>>2953825
>>2953826
I find the LIDAR useful, I mean most of the time it's a filament poop or a stray bit of filament trash but sometimes it's saved me time and materials.

>>2953830
The P2S's error detection is some AI-based shit that uses the camera feed to detect errors.

Couldn't tell you which is better.

>>2953830
I have both an X1C and a x-max 3.(bambu at work, xmax home)
You'd be surprised as to how little use the lidar is when it comes to calibrating flow. If you stick to a material from a specific brand, if you ever have to calibrate flow again something's gone horribly wrong(aka moisture) and it won't be solved by compensating.
At most it just makes the bed leveling slightly faster.

A friend gave me a Biqu B1 that he thinks might be broken. He lost the spool holder. I can't find a replacement one on Amazon, but I might not know what to search.
Does anyone know of where I could get one, or how I could just make one easily (without 3D printing, because this is my only FDM printer).

>>2953832
I was talking about first layer detection but yeah when I got some bad spools the filament calibration (which I normally have off) didn't do shit. I don't know that it's ever done shit. AI is fine then especially if there are less false failures.

>>2953732
NTA, but wouldn't it be better to get a MSLA printer if you're going for a dedicated fine parts printer? I get that being able to share the same stock of virgin material is a big advantage, but if you want fine details out of a print why not getting the real deal?

>>2953838
you could literally nail an old board to the wall, no you could literally nail a nail to the wall and hang the spool on it and print.

my old printer it was just a square bit of metal, not even square it was just folded to a 3 sided square and that hung on the printer.

when I don't use my AMS I set the filament in the old AMS tray with no rollers so it's literally sitting in a circular trough.

your spool holder doesn't need to be round, it doesn't even need to be inside the spool, it just needs to be above the printer.

>>2953801
Does the PS2 have a heated chamber?

>>2953840
Resin will always produce more detailed and fine parts.
But, also there's a lot of extra steps required to make resin a viable set up in whatever workflow you're doing versus just buying a cheap (likely used) A1 mini and sticking a 0.2mm nozzle on it.

>>2953844
No.

>>2953842
>your spool holder doesn't need to be round, it doesn't even need to be inside the spool, it just needs to be above the printer.
Ok, thanks. This is great to know.

Where could i pirate .stls? Since i'm unable to pay for them e.g. on cults3d.

Beside Bambu, how are the other options for multicolor printing?

>>2953973
Toolchanger setups are arguably better than Bambu AMS, and AFAIK the options are Prusa XL, Snapmaker U1, and DIY (Teaching Tech as a series of videos on modding the Sovol SV08 into a toolchanger). Prusa is stupid expensive, Snapmaker seems promising.

>>2953973
Creality and Qidi are releasing their filament multiplexers but none besides bambu have been around long enough for a reliable review of the system.

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I heard this stuff is god tier.
Does this work with injection molded ABS as well? My graphics card shroud is broken at the standoffs but since it will vibrate a lot I don't trust a hard drying super glue or similar on that

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looking for some advice
I have this sculpture im working on, i want to cast it out of concrete

my original plan was to use the blender skin modifier, print the resulting shell, and fill that with concrete, and then sacrifice the mold... though something reusable might be better, im not sure where to even begin with the mold design, it seems like it would need 4 parts maybe BACK, 2 SIDES, FRONT

Im not sure how I could do this with all the overhangs

I have a tronxy600, with a 8CUFT build space
my friend has an even bigger one with a Cubic meter of build space, ideally this thing will be a meter tall.

open to any advice or criticism

>>2953903
for functional parts make your own if you cant find it for free. If you only print dolls of pokemon then i dunno

>>2953973
prusa MMU3 is probably the best if you can get it to work well but sadly prusa overall is too overpriced even if it is quite EU based

>>2954045
strap some 120mm's to it and call it a day. its really the best mod you can do on a pc. ive got my fans at 100% gaming and can hardly hear them.gpu overclock is at max and it only hits 66 C

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Ive started getting some z-banding ,everything seems tight.Does it just need some grease? Seems like the bands line up with the darker threads

>>2954058
You can try regreasing. With leadscrews you will never really get rid of the banding, if you didn't do it yet get a pair of oldham couplers from ali.
The leadscrews on my printer were so bent the couplers were just constantly way out of center.
And check layer times in the slicer, the lines might be from that too.

>>2953698
Upgrade the bed. You want it to get hotter for some materials.

>>2954049
worry less about reducing the Number of shell part, and worry more about making them easy to remove and assemble.
2 parts for the head, 2 sides of each arm and leg, a belly and back slab that could be 1 or 2 parts each, so you can separate it and easily manoeuvre it out of the arm overhangs.
make each part pretty thick, and maybe flanged for bolting together, because that much cement is going to be HEAVY at a meter tall, especially that bulbus head.

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Portable knife sharpening jig, made from an alibay knife clamping fixture. I originally had it use two roller wheels, but after a bit of use I realised it was overconstrained for anything but a perfectly straight edged blade. These spare V-rollers are handy! But the small wheel makes it highly reliant on a smooth surface, which I probably won’t have at the repair cafe where I sharpen knives on a folding table. Also the handle isn’t too convenient, and the angle setting arm needs a lot of tightening to not slip. Ideally I’d have some holes and a peg to set a handful of common angles, but I haven’t thought how to implement that yet.

Parts printed in PLA.

>>2954059
Thanks, I had no idea about the upgraded couplers.Its a sovol sv05. Its got a anti backlash spring and 2 support bars along with the z screw. Ive seen conversions seen linear rail conversions on the ender 5 but almost everyone ive seen retain the z screw why is that?

Bambu's flash sale emailed with a cool plate for $7.99, I jump in there and it's for the A1 mini. Assholes.

>>2954156
It prints well enough aside from the zbanding its doing now.I mostly do functional prints but not enough to justify an expensive printer .Ive priced out the x-y rails and parts at under $100. the x couldnt cost more than that? so $200 max to upgrade. is there a decent linear printer for $200?

>>2954178
I meant Z instead of X on the last part

>https://x.com/josefprusa/status/1983916072836174071
Prusa is a joke. It's clearly Thursday today.

anyone have experience w third party hardened extruder gears and hotends from temu or alix? I want to upgrade my p1p to print cf, and id like a 0.2/0.4/0.6/0.8 set too. what should i get quality-wise and to make my life easy when swapping (i expect to sit on 0.4 most of the time)

>>2954178
I was mostly talking in hindsight if you were to buy something thats 200 more expensive instead of what you currently have.
I switched my bedslinger to linear rails and belt driven Z and it all cost 232 so your math is almost spot on.
If you really want to get rid of most z banding the belts are probably the only option.
But considering how bed is mounted in sv05 i dont think thats an option.

>>2954058
Cleaning the crap out of those dark threads might just do it.

What's the difference between the smooth PEI plate and the textured PEI plate that Bambu offer? Or the supertack plate?

>>2953645
Does anyone know where I can find multiboard stl files?

>>2954252
just use gridfinity bro

>>2954250
the plate leaves an imprint in the bottom of your print due to the filament being squished. smooth gives like a micropebble kind of landscape, textured is more pronounced. Those fancy black plates that have sort of a holigraphic pattern are just a fancy pattern, I couldn't find one but it looks like they have houndstooth and honeycomb now.

supertack looks like their normal cool or engineering plate but I can't tell if it's a sticker (cool is a replaceable sticker) looks like an alternative to PEI that everyone is raving about.

Bros, any recommendations for a 3d printer with multiple hotends, 400x400x400 or larger, filament change and not a zillion dollars?
For work, not hobby.
Looking at anycubic kobra 3 max

>>2954261
>we have a bambu at home

>>2954263
I use an ender 3v2 at home
Bambu is too small it seems

>>2954261
>For work, not hobby.
What kind of work?

>>2954261
Why not just SLS at that point?

>>2954270
isn't SLS still a zillion dollars?

>>2954277
Yeah, but shipping to zimbabwe might be a couple trillion more.

I'm making a thing out of TPU that goes over a sharp metal bracket that is in the perfect place to smack your shins on. The idea is mostly to cover and remove the sharp edge, but the secondary goal is to provide a little cushioning for when your shin bumps into the no-longer-sharp edge. Question: What is the best infill pattern for this purpose?

>>TLDR: what TPU infill pattern/settings do I use to make it hurt the least when you smack your shin into the part?

>>2954294
Concentric for very squishy, fairly sparse gyroid for moderately squishy. Keep in mind that 95A is pretty darn solid when printed solid, so the shell will need to be fairly thin to enable squishiness.

I just want to 3D print stuff to use as a mold for metal casting. I don't need the AMS thing that sits on top for multicolors for the Bambu printers, right?

>>2954300
lost pla casting?
Why is there no wax-like filament?

>>2954300
>I don't need the AMS thing
for one filament type per print? no you dont

>>2954301
No, for sand casting.

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Why does everyone and their mother prefer Orca/PrusaSlicer to Cura?

I've been using Cura for ages and decided to try PrusaSlicer about two weeks ago and it's nowhere near as powerful as Cura. Sure it slices way faster but the interface sucks and there's twice as many useless options and half as many useful ones.

After I got fed up with not being able to dial things in I tried Orca which is a bit better - the multiple build plate setups thing is awesome - but it still doesn't let you control half the shit that Cura does. It feels like these both are for newbies that can't be trusted with settings and Cura for power users that want to tune everything, but everywhere you look everyone says it's the opposite.

>>2954305
a lot of the orca slicer settings are more powerful, if you can find them and figure out what they do.
cura just gives you a long list of things to change, while orca assumes you're either going to use the basic shit offered, or KNOW what you're looking for.

you're basically being filtered by the orcaslicer equicilent of the cura "reccomended print settins" menu.

>>2954315
lol okay bro

>no way to configure 0% infill trees only 1 wall thick
>no way to apply brim to only tree supports not part
>tree support first layer is considered infill so it sometimes prints walls first sometimes prints infill first on build plate and there's no way to affect it
>support interface doesn't have enough settings to eliminate small lines on internal radii, only way to prevent it is to only support at 90*
>density settings shown in both percentages and line spacing in different places
>jerk settings (or maybe something else I'm not even sure) interact with fuzzy skin making it insanely slow
>no way to force travel within infill only, limited settings to control travel routes in general
>default line width settings are trash and pumping up the base line width to a strong 125% nozzle diameter trashes them further, requiring you to go change all of them when they should just scale properly
>speed settings are the same way
>duplication of a bunch of settings in between Material and Process
>no settings for Z hop speed at all, it's always tied to retraction
>half as many retraction tuning parameters in general

And that's just the shit I've noticed from playing with it for 3 days.

>>2954300
mold not model?

>>2954049
Do you have a lot of experience with casting concrete? I've never casted anything that big but I can already foresee a lot going wrong, especially if you cast it solid
Looking at that sculpt you might as well print it as is and cover it with exterior wall surfacing

Would the Bambu p1s or p2s be a good choice for a beginner who doesn't want to spend too much time calibrating the printer?
I mostly want to build custom keyboards and maybe some other electronics.

>>2954301
Like lost-wax? I think there is? There are also the soluble filaments.

>>2954363
P1S and P2S are basically the same in most regards.
P2S has AI error checking, which might be useful sometimes, I guess?
Bambu's whole gimmick is being "it just works", and they're pretty okay at it. They've set the benchmark at this point so there's a lot of very similar equally Chinese machines that have some competition, but most people just go with Bambu.

For Keyboard stuff, you probably want an AMS for easier material switching and management. It'll allow you to print keycaps in one piece by using the AMS to switch materials (and thus colour) for the characters on each key.

I would say you should consider what materials you wanna use and how much internal volume you want to have.

>>2954305
I would rather Cura, and I do for my little Malyan, but I don't have a profile for the stupid adv5m I had to buy for one print when I popped my Malyan's bed heater.
If anyone knows of one to share, I'd appreciate. Or should I just suck it up and make my own?

>>2954305
I use cura but I thought klipper was the hot shit

>>2954214
What would you clean it with? I have wire brushes,tooth brushes but what about a solvent? Treat it like a greasy car part and just use brake clean?

>>2954203
yeah, I picked it up years ago when the ender5 was still kinda new. I really only fire it up like once per year,print a bunch of stuff then forget about it for the rest of the year

>>2954375
Thanks. I think the 25 by 25 cm should be ok for me, it's enough for split keyboards, and for a full size I would need to print the case in 2 parts anyway I think. When it comes to materials, pla and petg would be the main ones. I see that some printers can do reinforced polymer, which sounds cool but they also look pretty expensive.

Ideally I would like a printer that just can do everything and doesn't cost a fortune but that sounds unrealistic. It's always hard to say what project ideas I might have in a year or so.

>>2954386
Alcohol is good UNLESS you have nylon parts, it will swell the nylon (eventually)
Brake cleaner is OK on nylon and steel but bad for rubber.
window cleaner with ammonia is OK except for copper and brass.
So with steel like that (it's either stainless or plated with chrome or zinc or something) you could use any of those as long as you don't spill it on other parts, so I would wet a blue shop towel or paper towel with Alcohol and wipe?

>>2954389
Fibre reinforced filaments are okay. The worry with carbon fiber filaments is that the fibres can splinter and embed themselves into your skin. So, you generally want to coat or lacquer the parts if you do that.

ABS/ASA can be printed on these printers, but it's advisable to buy a chamber heater and have air filtration if you do.

P2S comes with a hardened steel extruder (and nozzle I think???) where as it's an upgrade option for the P1S.

Bambu printers are somewhat upgradable. But not as much as like Prusa for example. But I can't think of anything you couldn't upgrade the P1S to do right now.

>>2954399
>into your skin
into your LUNGS until you need new ones.

>>2954399
Thanks again. I think I'll likely get the p1s, it's also on sale right now.
I will wait untill tomorrow to make the final decision though.

>>2954401
post any research even speculating on this please or shut the fuck up about it

Why does everyone shill bambu all the time? Who the fuck wants a cnc machine that can't run simply by sticking a USB in it? The brand name itself is goofy enough to avoid lmao, just get something that's got enclosure and looks cool

>>2954438
Bambu absolutely has flaws. But if you're new to any of this stuff just having a machine that works most of the time is a pretty big selling point.

QoL and reliability is king for onboarding people.

>sperg doesnt understand entry level hobbyist consumer market episode #9,670,576

>>2954438
>Who the fuck wants a cnc machine that can't run simply by sticking a USB in it?
my p1s does that thoughbeit

>>2954321
>>no way to configure 0% infill trees only 1 wall thick
in advanced under supports, set wall loop to 1 instead of "auto" at 0
>>no way to apply brim to only tree supports not part
you can set that using the objects menu, set brim on global, and no brim on object.
>>tree support first layer is considered infill so it sometimes prints walls first sometimes prints infill first on build plate and there's no way to affect it
i've not noticed this, but i also don't use many tree supports with infill.
>>support interface doesn't have enough settings
i have noticed this, but i usually just trim a bit of material off the model and fill the area in post print if its mechanically significant
>>density settings shown in both percentages and line spacing in different places
you can set a lot of those at either and the slicer will automatically calculate it, a lot of the %s are set as a variable if you use those settings with a different nozzle size.
>>jerk settings interact with fuzzy skin making it insanely slow
i haven't noticed this
>>no way to force travel within infill only, limited settings to control travel routes in general
i vaguely remember something about changing it off arachnae enabling more manual travel settings, but that was a few dozen releases back
>>default line width settings are trash...
yeah, it sucks needing to manually change them, but not having those options would suck too, i like running my first layer at much less than the other layers when i print PETG, since my z offset is a bit off it gives a great first layer without elephant foot.
>>speed settings are the same way
as above
>>duplication of a bunch of settings in between Material and Process
yeah kinda hate this
>>no settings for Z hop speed at all, it's always tied to retraction
also hate this
>>half as many retraction tuning parameters in general
honestly, other than when trying to do tip forming for MMU i've never needed much retraction modification.

>>2954467
not saying you're wrong, just that a lot of those issues may just be with how you're workflow goes, not every slicer is perfect for everything, and cura has a lot of stuff orca doesn't have, but the stuff orca has i prefer more than the stuff its missing.

>>2954467
>in advanced under supports, set wall loop to 1 instead of "auto" at 0
>you can set that using the objects menu, set brim on global, and no brim on object.
Thank you

>honestly, other than when trying to do tip forming for MMU i've never needed much retraction modification.
I print primarily PETG and as nozzle size goes up it becomes more of an issue, to the point where I'm trying these different slicers and even new materials now, PETG-CF is working well and PET-CF is next on the list but I'm not sure my AliExpress hotend on a 5 year old Artillery is gunna handle 300C

>>2954468
I'm not saying Cura is across the board better, Orca is growing on me, but they're both clearly better than PrusaSlicer and Cura gets hate as been a noob slicer in every article about it

>>2954438
I can't hear you over the sound of my x1c

>>2954470
both of those replies are me btw

>Thank you
no worries bud, one of the first things i did on swapping to orca was go through and figure out what settings i could swap to get tree supports to be as close to what i knew, since at the time i was printing a load of masks for a friends masquerade themed party, and printing the supports for the eye holes and forehead meant a pretty massive tree, and using more material on the supports (which probably were necessary, but i doubted my hotends cooling) than the masks really didn't sit right with me

>petg on an aliexpress mystery hotend on a bedslinging bowden machine
i mean, yeah, you're gonna need to dial in your retractions for that no matter what you do, because its probably going to change each time you go to print thanks to so many variables changing between the bowden tube angles causing different levels of friction or slop, ambient humidity and temp on an unenclosed bedslinger, and just how much extra moisture a spool can pick up from multiple prints across a project.

cura gets the rep because it shipped with a LOT of noob machines, such as the creality cura clone that gets shipped with every ender3, and if you dont know how to add extra settings to your options you don't get much control beyond infil% and raft on or off, which works for a LOT of noobs.
but also its pretty basic in terms of extra features, like manually splitting larger prints, or settings by model, or manually painting supports, meaning you need to be adept at a second or third software to get the same features.
cura is basically no frill max utility, i used it for 12 years happily before giving up after a malformed gcode upload on one of those mask bricked my mainsail install twice in a row.
which wasn't entirely curas fault, but i decided to give it a few updates before trying again, and in that time played around with orca long enough to get all the masks printed, as well as get used to it.

>>2954470
>I print primarily PETG and as nozzle size goes up it becomes more of an issue, to the point where I'm trying these different slicers and even new materials now
Ah. I’m printing a decent amount of PETG and TPU with a 0.6mm nozzle and found it exceedingly difficult to get low stringing without seeing deretraction voids in my exterior walls. Maybe my slicer of choice (Orca) just doesn’t have the settings for it.

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>>2954481
direct drive actually but yeah it's old and sloppier than it once was

>>2954485
I have been hammering at this for 2-3 weeks now since I started using larger nozzles and I just don't think there's anything to be done about it.

Using Combing (keep tavels within infill) in Cura by definition prevents 100% of stringing if your model doesn't have multiple "towers" to print, but I think the only way forward for me from here is to switch to buying PETG-CF, go back down to 0.4mm, or do some mods to my printer (or build a Voron) so that I can move the print head way faster.

That does help btw - tuning the speed up as far as you can go, set retraction speed to the max you extruder can manager, maybe enable the arc zhop moves so it starts moving at the same time as lifting, and printing in an enclosure so that you have 0 curling and can disable zhop entirely. Also anecdotally, PETG seems to stick to hardened steel nozzles a bit less than bronze

Years ago I had this printer dialed to 0 stringing but that was with a 0.4mm nozzle in an enclosure with brand new Hatchbox PETG and much less worn machine

>>2954488
I was actually printing with a PTFE-coated nozzle, I think it helped a bit. Now I’ve got a hardened-insert copper nozzle, and it’s ok but it does collect boogers somewhat. I find myself adjusting the bed height knobs for the brim to get a good first layer for most prints of any material, because I’m a retard who runs an ender 3 without a bed level sensor.

For multi-tower prints with less stringing, something like Xavier Chermain’s Atomizer could be really nice. The performance leaves something to be desired however.

>>2954398
I expected the dark threads to be crust stuck in there but it was just dirty grease. I put fresh grease on the screw and moved the bed top to bottom a few times. Pushed all of the dirty grease to the top of the anti backlash nut. Im out of filament so I cant test atm.

>>2954513
please update my printer has been bugging me about greasing shit since I can remember.

Fuck it, I just bought the p1s.

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My post kept getting auto filtered on reddit

>>2954514
I still haven't tested but it randomly popped in my head that I had used Z hop on that print with the banding because on taller prints with supports the nozzle was sometimes crashing into the part or supports from stringing boogers. Im pretty sure the z hop causes the banding in my case. I will still report back when I get another roll.

>>2954544
>buying an ancient printer when the new one exists and is better in every way
you realize that just to upgrade the p1s to do what the p2 can even with older parts is more expensive right? the only whack thing about the p2s is the exhaust vent stuff

i bought a p1s+ams, then bought a dryer, now im buying new extruder gears and a hotend, all this shit and it would have been cheaper if i had gotten the p2s (unfortunately i bought it a couple of months ago). i dont know why anyone would buy a p1s unless you have a farm and just need to pump volume of parts printed for as cheap as possible

>>2954559
go back

anyone with a p1(s) have basically non stop bed adhesion issues? printer is fairly new, maybe printed a dozen things with it, played around with petg and pla only. but last few prints, every other print fails right off the bat, when it prints a single line at the edge of the plate, theres a 50/50 chance the line won't stick on the plate and stay with the print head.

happens with both petg and pla, all dried and printed from an AMS with tons of fresh dessicant. i mean im even using bambu pla and all the default settings, so that one should be completely plug and play.

>>2954624
>inb4 clean your plate
i now clean with dish soap and a dish sponge, then finish with IPA and a clean paper towel between each print. Before I would just use IPA and paper towel with no problems.

>>2954624
I've had it sometimes, but, I've not really found a solution beyond the usual online tips of
>Clean your build plate with dish soap
>Higher bed temperature
>Turn the fans off for the first couple layers so the chamber is hotter
And various other steps like that. And sometimes one of them works.

>>2954559
lookin good
what material? does it shoot?

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>>2954609
No u
>>2954641
Yes it shoots with occasional binary fire that I have to fix. It was printed in polymaker pro.

>>2954665
>PLA firearm
nasty tbqh

>>2954624
Is it a prusa? Is it a prusa i3 “satin” build plate?

If it’s closer to brown than black it’s a known issue

You can sometimes salvage the shitty prusa ones with a belt sander

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>>2953645
hey hey people, i'm illiterate and retarded, has anybody made an updated version of this flowchart for 2024/2025 and/or is it still good information? finally have a little money to burn on a printer and saved this ages ago.

>>2954676
>pla
Why? Im not interested in printing hand guns. The only reason I would print in nylon is for heat components like a nylaug or plastikov. I have a spider hot end but I dont want to build or buy an enclosure. Getting something that can print engineering filaments is another 500 - 1000 dollar investment on prints i may do once every year or two

>>2954692
this retard here again, is it financially a good idea to buy a used printer off somebody and use that to print parts for a reprap prusa, then sell on the old one? fb marketplace has an ankermake m5 with an ask of $250 usd and an Anycubic Kobra 3 with a filiament box and a camera (needs a hot end) for $200

>>2954692
It's very outdated and 3D printers came a long way in the last few years, for example nobody buys a Prusa anymore unless they are dead set on not financing winnie the pooh at all costs. Get one of the Bambu labs printers if you just want to print stuff without fucking around with settings and calibrations, A1 being the cheap entry option. Also P2S that just came out is said to be excellent.

>>2954624
Had this problem, turns out I wasn't being heavy enough with the gluestick

>>2954624
z offset, make it closer to the bed. make sure your bed is level. I had the same issue of nothing wanting to stick down. now the purge line can sometimes get stuck to the plate. Ive been running my finger along the line to transfer the oils on my hand to the bed as a release agent.

>>2953645
I'm starting to get tired of printing three of each thing anytime there's a friction fit hole involved.
>too tight.
>too loose.
>just right. Maybe.
Has anyone figured out a workflow for this besides making sure the feature is parametric?

>>2954692
Every single one of those printers is obsolete, the newest printer on that list the prusa mk4 isn’t even sold anymore they’re on the S+ variant or done shit now

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>>2954818
wrong image.

>>2954702
> reprap prusa

No that thing was out dated in 2015 when the mono price mini select came out, then that was out dated when the ender 3 came out, then those died when the mk3s-+ became widely affordable and those died when the Bambu x1c came out
We are like 5 iterations into the Bambu lineup now

Your idea is to buy an obsolete printer. To self build an even more obsolete printer that ran on 12 v power supplies not even 24v and flip the original obsolete printer for a profit?


If you want to be Jewish , buy a bambulabs p1s off of amazon, print everything for a voron build then return it

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big prussy cooked fr for with the Core L (big L for bambooniggers)

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>>2954840

>>2954840
>>2954841
How much is it?

>>2954842
1400 eur without tax, only preassembled available. they cant legally sell a kit with 220V heatbed due to liability reasons

>>2954818
I leave a 0.1mm gap for friction fitting things, might be different for circular holes though.

How do you guys go about sanding intricate small detail areas?

>>2954696
>why is biodegradable heat sensitive corn plastic a bad idea for anything related to a firearm
I know there are people can get a case out of a PLA pro receiver but I thoroughly dislike the idea of disposable/fragile plastic firearms that look and get treated like toys. a receiver should not be a wear surface you are half expecting to break during use. as such nylon is the bare minimum for such endeavors, if only for longevity, and its absolutely worth the meager costs of an enclosure upgrade

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How do I measure the angles for the flat side of these? They are not square with anything on the actual body and attached to the housing with brackets with a ball socket on one end. I actually need the proper angle so that way they do not have any play when mounted.

>outgrown my a1 mini
>p1s is at a great price now (390€)
>p1s combo is a great price as well (570€)
>however for that same price I can just get P2S (non-combo) which should be more future proof
I've been thinking about this shit for days now and I can't make my damn mind up. I don't even need an AMS, or maybe I do, or maybe just my autism needs it. I should just get the P2S (when the non-combo deal finally releases in europe) and forget about the whole thing.
Anyway even if I get another printer, I'm keeping the A1 Mini, I just love it.

>>2954890
This is what a 3d scanner is useful for.

>>2954895
That is what I was thinking of. Was trying to find other options while I'm digging into the scanner rabbit hole.

>>2954890
Screw a flat plane to them and measure the angle between the plane and your reference plane

How much can I make sitting on enthusiast forums and shilling a particular brand of printer?

>>2954894
You should just get a P2S and if you really care about the AMS, it'll probably be discounted at christmas/new year anyway.

AMS is nice for like "I want to print in red, but I don't want to swap the spool out", but the actual multi-material shit is kinda shit. Takes forever, wastes 10-20% of the total material cost.

>>2954818
i just use a metalworkers ream for all the 6mm or 8mm holes i need to get a sliding fit on,
a cheap chinese 6mm and 8mm drillbit from a set that was undersized, for friction fits,
i also find carving a little champfer on the edge of the hole to make insertion easier,
if you're making the model try adding a little notch down the length of the hole to give it some stretchability

>>2954898
heres the thing anon, they do it for free.

>>2954899
Yeah, I'd probably want it for what you said about swapping spools. The p2s combo is really expensive though so I wouldn't go for that right now, however the p2s just seems like a more future proof option right now, and it has nice features like swapping nozzles and stuff, which I might need in the future... but the p1s has a nice price so yeah, I'll have to decide on this soon

>>2954897
I've tried to make some stuff so I can get triangular measurements with the other mounting holes and I'm not accurate enough to get proper triangles. All my geometry are based on the mounting holes and the center of the big hole.

How to learn modeling? Which CAD program should I use?

>>2954903
It's definitely a harder choice. But, I think if you're going to get a P1S, you can get one second-hand super cheap right now and there's little reason to buy a new one when Bambu themselves are trying to get rid of them.

>>2954905
>how to learn modeling?
By doing. When you don't know how to do a thing, search on the internet the specific thing you want to achieve in the specific software you're using.
>which CAD?
Functional parts or organic shapes?

>>2954911
Functional parts

>>2954901
superior products inspire customer loyalty, nothing new about that phenomenon

>>2954910
Actually I checked the biggest used hardware marketplace where I live and... they are selling used P1Ss for MORE money than I could get it for BRAND NEW from the bambu store, or 3djake... no idea why, I thought they just didn't notice the pricing, but it's been like this for weeks. So right now it's a better deal to buy it new lol

>>2954919
It's the same around here in Manchester, but I just put it down to everyone in Manchester being fucking retarded.

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Anybody have any clue when the chinks are gonna get their shit together and bring the p2s to America?

>>2954900
The way this thing is going to be loaded the only real option would've been a clamp fit, and that would've been more of a pain than just getting it on the third try.
there is an unequal length chamfer on the side that's supposed to take the insertion.
>drilling/standard sizing
would've been an option were this a standard shaft. It's am old curtain rod that I'm using to hold a grow lamp attached to a muscle rack.

>>2954914
Then you want what's called a "parametric CAD". Any will work, but for simplicity and ease of access OnShape is the best, being free for private use and browser based; you just need to sign up and then you're ready to model. TeachingTech has a series of videos on learning to model with OnShape. If you have any problems hop on /3/, there's a CAD thread, I'll answer you there, as I'm the resident CAD monkey/mech engineer.

>>2954914
Ignore the shill and just use freecad. Deltahydra's videos will bring you up to speed.

>the shill
I deal with CAD in my shit dayjob, I have experience with most CAD, I have no vested interest in anyone in particular, and I hate all of them for different reasons. OnShape is as good as it gets for a smooth experience, especially for a newbie. This not to say FreeCAD isn't viable for someone starting out, the workflow is mostly the same across all CAD, minor difference apply and FreeCAD is no exception, but dealing with the jank, stiffness, and UI of a FOSS isn't something I'd recommend to a newbie.

Sure, buddy.

>>2954626
>>2954682
>>2954727
>>2954798
its a scambu labs plate (textured pei, comes with the p1)
ok, so i definitely notice that one side of my plate is duller than the other (mostly unused side). I know the plates wear down over time but im like less than 200 hours on the printer, so I really doubt its that. I'm a little scared that me using a dish sponge (rough side down) with dish soap maybe damaged the plate? these things are supposed to be really tough right?

>>2954840
>still smaller than bambu h2s and more expensive
haah waaw
it would be cool if that silicone mixing nozzle thing was included. i think the next addition to FDMs might be some sort of liquid mixing print system. the thing they showed off with silicone components filled into extruded tubes and put in a spool seems really complicated though. hopeflly thers a better / smarter solution that isnt patented to fuck out there
>epoxy resin
>silicone
>foaming agents
>concrete-likes??

>>2955001
how abrasive is that rough side? I mean it's possible, but I doubt you were scrubbing the ever loving shit out of it

>>2955004
Take a look at current dedicated silicone printers and see that nothing of this stuff is new.
>epoxy resin
See 40A silicone, the price tag.

>>2954846
At that price, it better also give me a handy while printing

>>2954903
>P2S finally available
>press order
>Ship around December 01, 2025
Oh come on. I might just grab a P1S Combo at this rate.

After two years of dealing with Creality's shit I'm tired of fucking with the printer to get decent quality prints and want something that just werks. P2S or Qidi Q2? I don't care about anything other than print quality without having to rebuild half of the fucking machine.

anyone familiar with hp mjf nylon 12 here? looking to do a stipple grip for my bike handle. what kind of resolution can go down to until i'm at the limit of the inkjet technology?

>>2955070
>bike handle
Have you actually looked into what MJF is? It's several factors more precise than you'll ever need.

>>2955058
>decent quality prints and want something that just werks
Doesn't exist. That said, P2S.

>>2955030
Guten Abend, Fritz.

>>2954941
You deal with CAD at your job, but recommend Onshape? Why that? Fusion is king.

>>2955104
Yes a "bike handle" for my left hand only. I've read the datasheet for the material but I'm still unsure it can match a grip finish like fine knurling.

>>2955107
Fusion is not an industry standard tool and I have no experience with it. I can tell you about Inventor, Solidworks, SolidEdge, NX, Creo, CATIA, and AutoCAD, but Fusion has yet to come across my desk. Of course I know some much better than others, Inventor and SW are the ones I use 90% of the times, CATIA and NX I used only once. I'm sure Fusion is fine, any CAD is for someone learning the ropes, but OnShape doesn't even need a local install so I see it as a lower friction choice. To be fair I have mixed feelings on some higher level aspects of OnShape, but for anything that can be shat out by a 3D printer it's good enough.

>>2954905
which brand of autism do you have? I use tinkercad the most but also use freecad and blender

>>2954818
just print a test fit of the hole like 5 mm tall instead of the whole part

>>2955117
>Fusion is not an industry standard tool and I have no experience with it.
You could've stopped there. Go back

>>2955001
its your z offset...

>>2955117
Is this you, sieg?

>>2953732
This has been my primary frustration with my p1s as well. Is there no option to allow the p1s to use the newer and cheaper hotends that would be easier to swap out? Like an aftermarket part?

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>>2955134
BIQU Panda Revo allows for it.
I know there's some others, but I don't know their names off the top of my head.
I'd look into how it compares performance wise to the default hot end though.

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>>2955126
Not him. Just a sad engineer slaving away as a CAD monkey for the most miserable paycheck imaginable. I wish I could be one of those makers on youtube doing creative engineering stuff, but without the youtube part. A shame, because no company does actual R&D in this hellhole, it's all just resizing shit endlessly.

Talking about printing: do you guys know how to get good quality at the support interface? See pic related, I had to print the object at an angle to minimize the risk of delamination (with hindsight I should have done it in two pieces, but it's still a good case study), what you're seeing is the edges that touched the plate, so it was all printed on supports basically. When I do that I always end up with shit results as you can see.

>>2955160
Why did you print it on a single side? 45" with a minimal support area.
Also manual supports.

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>>2955162
I had it at 45°. I've circled the zones that were touching the plate. Supports still had to cradle the part in the lower layers and you can see in the circle on the left the decrease in layer consistency.

Anyone have a quick TLDR on 120v vs 230v for 3D printers?

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trying to print some HF PETG, its a tall print and a couple of things I noticed:
>the external walls look level and flat but they have a lot of weird banding. the PETG is glossy so it looks awful
>my printer is printing circular holes as ovals where the holes are aligned normal to the X and Y axes, and not Z.

dont have a great picture of the circles as this thing is still printing. not sure if i shoudl stop it

>>2955176
Did you dry it?

>>2955184
yeah about 8 hours

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>>2954846
Fuck, i was about to build a voron. It's what they should have done all along even before the XL.

>>2955107
Fusion is most assuredly NOT king. Actual professional CAD is much, much better for doing good work in a hurry.

i hate 3d printing

>>2955238
skill issue

>>2955203
In 3d printing it absolutely is. Walk over Formnext and see it being used by every busyboy. I'm not saying SW, NX, Inventor isn't king with the good old boys. However those deal with a lot more metal, less plastic and dit in a separate hall for a reason.

the modeling software talk reminds me, I decided to get fusion360 and tried 3d modeling for the first time, and I made a box with a lid
amazing
I guess I gotta learn by trying to model actual stuff I need

>>2955238
its kinda gay and cool at the same time.

>>2955200
No shit. It's literally what they asked Joseph for 6years ago, yet he decided to sleep.
Meanwhile we're already at Monolith builds.

>>2955270
yes. there are some good videos out there that give tips on modeling for 3d printing like how to avoid warping by adding curves along the interior of long lines for example.

>>2955248
>In 3d printing it absolutely is
What would you say is Fusion's advantage over other parametric CAD in the 3D printing field? In my experience SW and Inventor are pretty much equivalent, SolidEdge offers a hybrid parametric/non-parametric system with somewhat better ability to handle surfaces and sheet metal than Solidworks and Inventor, CATIA and NX are tailored towards fuckhuge assemblies for fuckhuge machinery, Creo is probably the most powerful when it comes to fancy shapes, I saw it used by a motorcycle manufacturer and by an injection molding company, but it also handles things badly and it's kinda fragile, Idk how to explain it.

To be clear I think OnShape's only good feature is being a free webapp.

>>2955315
Contrary to my critics, i'd say mostly mind share. It's just dumbed down enough that users don't get too confused by advanced features, but also polished enough to attract that beginner group 3d printing brought in. You don't see SW at Printopia or those little fighting robots, you see Fusion.
A bit more tinfoil i think it's just pushed heavily by Autodesk to avoid another Blender.

>>2955315
>To be clear I think OnShape's only good feature is being a free webapp.
Fusion's only good feature is being a free windows download.

>>2955200
for some people without much time it can take even a fugging year to build a voron

>>2955184
I'm new to FDM. Is drying something you really need to do or is it a meme like the gluestick?
If so, how do you do it? Putting it in an oven four 6 hours sounds dangerous and wasteful.

>>2955335
From a kit? That's not a skill issue, but legit mental handicaps.

>>2955176
Ringing. Is the printer on a stable bench?
The oval holes could be a calibration thing.

>>2955203
I’m a professional, machinist, my designs are for sale with a multimillion dollar brand on it

Did them in fusion

I’m certified in gd&t and autocad
You can use fusion just like autocad and inventor if you want

Fusion’s CAM setup is also pretty decent if you’re cool with no post processors so for a simple 3 axis or simple 5 axis op it’s no problem

When I program CNC machines I write a lot of my own canned cycles by hand and fusion has kinda sped that up

Not that I program much anymore I’m more in a supervisory/sales gig now

For no other reason than I’ve been here the longest and I’m the only machinist in the company that has a bachelors and masters degree

>>2955337
both is and isnt. ive got my printer running well enough to where it doesnt matter for the most part. the main issue is that any stringing ends up sticking to the nozzle and then dropping fat boogers in the print. 95% of the time they land in the infill and doesnt effect anything and the other 5% its a catastrophic fail

>>2955335
i did my 350 voron 2.4 over a weekend, then software over another weekend.
would have been one weekend but the electronics kit shipped without a pi (expected), and with a broken mainboard (unexpected), so i had to wait for a replacement and improvise a mainsail host from an old laptop until i could source a pi.

if you haven't had years of experience Frankensteinng printers, i can see it taking longer though, especially if you fuck up earlier steps, like mounting a rail wonky right at the start, or forgetting a screw on an extrusion that cant be reached once another part is in place.
a friend of mine took a month to re-assemble a pre-owned ender 3 someone had half disassembled (i think they were adding a BL touch and direct drive extruder), because he kept trying to skip steps and intuit how things SHOULD go, instead of just looking at an image or instructions of an ender 3. in the end i broke the whole printer down with him, reprinted a few parts he'd managed to bend or damage, and had it working the same day, but now im stuck as tech support for it, because a few parts aren't exactly the same as stock, so any time something goes odd, instead of googling ender 3 problems, he assumes its a new unique problem because half the structural brackets are printed, ignoring that the issue is 100% electrical, which is still the stock ender mainboard, motor and wiring.

>>2955337
do you live in a place with more than 30% humidity? its not a meme.
aus chads keep winning
still dry my filament though, those chink factories are HUMID

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Chance of this print not failing? ASA on a bedslinger, never printed ASA before.

>>2955405
What's going to keep it from falling over as the bed slings?

>>2955407
I was thinking about going very slow and using a brim as big as possible with no gap and no elephant foot compensation. The picture is just the disposition, because the object is too big to fit the bed lying down.

>>2955405
How hot does your enclosure get?

I keep having filament snap inside the feeder on my Ender 3. I don't think it's a temperature or moisture issue, but it started right when I switched to a new filament. Does anyone know what this means?

>>2955457
How old is the new filament?
It's possible the spool is basically ruined and it's overly brittle as a consequence. Even if you dry or dried it, it's usually unrecoverable at that point.

>>2955459
I just bought it on Amazon this week.

The filament isn't brittle or anything if I try and bend or snap it.

I did some more googling and I'm seeing people who have this problem get told one of the screws for the extruder is too tight, so I'll try loosening it, but I'm not sure which one.

I've only been having prints fail multiple hours into printing, if that matters.

>>2955461
Oh, yeah. Probably something with the extruder or drive then.
Sounds like a pain in the ass to diagnose if it only happens after hours though.

If it's specifically ONLY after several hours, it's probably heat related in some way as heat is building up and only causing issues after it's done so. But, if it's just happening randomly, it's a bit more of a guess.

>>2955464
I'm printing with Bone-White Sunluu PLA+ 2 at 210C. The recommended on the label is between 195 and 220.

Should I go lower?

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>>2954045
3D gloop is the biggest "shilled for retards" 3D product i've ever seen
thats literally just acetone for 5x the price. Same with their PLA stuff, which i bet is just dichlormethane (Which also works on PETG btw).
Buy the actual chemicals instead. You can get a ton more for the same price.

>>2955405
>>2955410
>ASA
>Bedslinger
Nigger ASA is basically ABS. Shit's going to get fucked without (Or maybe even with) an enclosure.
Enclose that shit and set the coolers to bare minimum (Or even offf) so it would not warp the fuck off the buildplate.

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>>2955492
I need to start selling dumb shit to retards.

>>2955394
>aus chads keep winning
Darwinfag here, even in AC my shit gets fucked

>>2955501
i said aus CHADS, not aus cucks, go back to your "dry" territory with the rest of the abos

>>2955405
That shit is going to end up looking like a boomerang even with a heated enclosure. You need to add some serious brims and glue that shit down to have any hope of it not warping like hell.

>bambu store has a black friday sale
>check filaments
>even with the discount (that you only get if you order at least 4 spools) it's more expensive than buying filament from aliexpress
Why the hell would anyone buy the official filaments, the RFID chip is cool but it's not worth that money. Is the quality that much better?
I bought TPU from fucking Temu and I printed perfectly with it on the first try.

>>2955337
PETG, TPU, PC, and PA all need to be dried if you don't live in a desert. PLA, ABS/ASA, and PP are generally fine without drying, but they're not immune to water absorption so you'll still need to dry them if you live in a swamp or if they've been left open for a very long time.

>>2955551
It's pretty much the same price over here.
RFID is nice if you're lazy.

Other than that, sure I guess you're getting """Proven""" filament quality, but yeah. It's just because people buy it because a lot of people who buy Bambus just buy everything from Bambu.

>>2955405
You'll need fin supports to keep it from tipping over, but a tall, thin, piece like that is almost guaranteed to warp off the bed. You might actually be able to do it by using the lowest temperatures you can with maximum cooling and very, very slow speeds; warping happens when you have long bands of hot plastic cooling down, so you can prevent it from happening by keeping the print either hot or cold the entire time. The problem with printing cold is that you'll have poor layer adhesion for those tabs, but the alternative is almost certainly spaghetti.

I've been reading up on carbon fiber filaments and this shit looks like it's going to become the nerd asbestos in a decade or two, yet somehow I only see anons shitting on PLA-CF and not other CF filaments, why? Do other materials somehow bond the carbon fibers better?

>>2955620
Everyone who tried to bring up the CF issue never really took off and every fucking company used to bundle them with their printers to show off how "Advanced" they are (Even though CF is easier to print) so it kind of cemented itself in the printer sphere for now until people start feeling the effects.
CF is overall a genuine meme unless you are annealing it. Its shit, brittle, and also leaves carbon residue on your hands which will sooner or later find a way to your dick or nose/mouth, and the only saving grace of it is that it insanely reduces warping, which is mostly an issue only for more advanced materials.

>>2955624
Give it a few years and somebody will start strongly advising you spray their proprietary coating over CF prints in order to seal them. And then they can sell you both the problem and the solution.

>>2955493
>>2955518
>>2955606
Got it, I'll split it in two parts and then print them flat. The bed is just that tiny bit too small to print everything in a single piece.

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Dust? Dog hair? Random material stuck on the nozzle?

>>2955634
looks like a little bit leaked and got burnt
for me this is usually always a sign of a weak nozzle attachment and an incoming filament blob

>>2955405
get a bigger printer

>>2955337
when your filament is shit and spits and pops you need to dry. I live somewhere dry so it's literally not an issue.

also gluestick isnt' a meme it's legit, just not necessary as often with better plates.

>>2955315
>To be clear I think OnShape's only good feature is being a free webapp.
it's only free in the same way Fusion360 is, in other words for hobby only. they just fuck with you less, but it's in there. I had an employer try to make me use OnShape and I didn't like it but I've seen some complex stuff and apparently you can do actual industry shit with it so it must be okay once you learn it.

>>2955117
after using Fusion360s history I wouldn't be able to work without it.

>>2954624
PETG and PLA don't still well to each other, residue of either will fuck the plate for the other. in other words wash your shit negro

>>2955691
>apparently you can do actual industry shit with it
Like what? The whole CAM suite was tier locked last time i checked.

>>2955624
>carbon residue on your hands which will sooner or later find a way to your dick or nose/mouth
this is why GF is superior

A year ago I made some research and found that the Bambu lab a1 was the best beginner budget option. One year later is this still the same? I'm thinking of getting the mini one without the ams, I don't wanna invest too much in case it just ends up full of dust.

>>2955709
GF is the exact same shit - Coarsely ground particles of a material that breaks off blastic and hooks up to every soft tissue it can when untreated and leaves microscars on your lungs like asbestos if its particles are inhaled. Its better than CF mechanically but the health risk is on par if not worse.
There's a reason both carbon and glass filled composites require their own workplaces on factories with specific safety regulations. The fact that these plastics are freely sold like this is a fucking tragedy and clear mismanagement if you've ever worked on a factory with this stuff.
>t. composite worker

>>2955722
glass fibers from 3dp filament are not migrating from the epidermis/dermis into organs and interstitial tissue as is the argument with *handling* carbon fiber. as literally everyone recommends airway protection when post processing both GF and CF prints your point is irrelevant

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It's kinda splitting hairs here. But, which is better?

>>2955689
Are you paying for it? 'cause otherwise I'll stick to my beloved shitty bedslinger.

>>2955741
5

>>2955600
i've been printing PETG in florida in my garage all summer long and I quit using my filament drier and dry box sometime in june because it made no difference and my results were just fine without the extra work
>>2955741
5

hobbyist of /diy/, did your 3d prints knowledge helped you landing a job ? how is the technician market around you ? i tend to see more and more prototyping/production offers since no school really learn that, future look good it appear if you have even minimal diy/maker skills

>finally decide to open that ASA spool and try my luck
>it doesn't adhere to the textured PEI
I even did a mesh at temperature beforehand. Maybe heat cycling to 100 °C doesn't deform the bed the same way each time, maybe the filament must be dried, I've heard some popping when extruding, maybe I should just give up and stick to PLA.

>>2955837
Preheat your enclosure. Use a big fuck off brim. Glue the fuck out of your bed. Hope it keeps to temp and cool it slowly afterwards. What printer are you using?

>>2955839
>enclosure
>what printer
Open bedslinger. To be clear I don't have the expectation to print much, I need just to print some endcaps and other small stuff.

>>2955847
Nigga no. Just stop. You're wasting your time. That shit won't work.

>remember seeing some video suggest replacing the stock ptfe tube with one from Capricorn
Is that a meme or does brand actually matter for the ptfe tube?

Been out of the hobby for a while, used to have a couple Ender 3 pieces of shit. Need a bunch of snowmobile-type parts for a track conversion project and did the math that a P1S and filament would be cheaper than buying all the components I need. Been cranking out 8+ hour ASA prints all day every day for a month now with zero problems.
God the reddit 3d printing community is a buncha losers just like it was 5 years ago. Dweebs making useless crap.

>>2955911
It used to be an issue with long bowden tube printers that the mediocre tolerances of cheap tubing would cause friction points whilst the filament traveled to the hot end leading to irregular flow rates and heat transmission.

Capricorn offered tubes with better interior diameter tolerances and I think a different plastic composition that they claimed was better or whatever.

These days direct drive printers use short paths and there's less concern about it. There might be a technical difference with certain filaments, but it's not as big a deal as it used to be.

At the same time though, PTFE tubes eventually wear out and you're going to replace them anyway so why not spend like $5 extra to get a nicer set in a color you want over some generic chink shit, I guess.

>>2955917
I find 3D printer elitists to be so fucking cringe. Since Bambu has become popular there's like entire communities of people jerking themselves off to the idea of spending 4 hours leveling their beds between every print or else it's not real printing.

>>2955919
Yeah and I can't trust any hardware recommendations from those folks because the printers they suggest might be hot dogshit but they don't care because tweaking with the printer is the hobby, not useful output.

Can someone tell me why I shouldnt preorder an anycubic s1 max. Basically an h2s for half the price if i order now.

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>>2955919
Based truth teller

>>2955933
Obviously it's a new product, so there's always a chance it's randomly dog shit for unknown reasons.
But, beyond that it seems a pretty decent offering, and I really can't immediately notice anything that's wrong here.

What a 3D printer should do and how it should function is pretty well-established by now, so it's hard to really see how this could be critically shit. It might not be as well-finished as the H2S, it might not be as technically accurate or whatever. But, It's also like half the price, it will probably be a slightly worse printer at a much better price.

If I'm already getting a heated AMS should I buy an extra 1 or 2 spool dryer on the side for filaments that have a different temperature range?

>>2955950
You can never have too many filament dryers.
But realistically the only issues you're going to have are
>You cannot dry and print (using the AMS) at the same time.
>AMS has a temp limit of 65C, which is too low for some filaments

You can print from an external spool while the AMS is drying, so it's not that big of a deal.
But the 65C limit means you can't dry ABS in it.

>>2955950
do you NEED to dry your filaments?

>>2955958
Depends on the filament, the humidity in your area, how well they're stored between manufacture and being used, and your tolerance for stringing. You can get away with not drying PLA if you're not somewhere crazy humid and you're okay with a tiny bit of stringing. You can just put the spool on your printers bed with a box over it and heat it to dry btw.

>>2955959
Yes that is what I was implying. Does anon NEED drying or are they just buying into the meme.

>>2955933
their yet another slicer branch is annoying as is the way purge settings are printer only during print only one value. it's the harbor freight version of the x1c, build volume might push me over the edge if I didn't already have an x1c although 99% of the time I don't need it.

>>2955933
its anycubic
They're the chinkshit of chinkshit even behind Creality sometimes. You will get the bare minimum and even that is not guaranteed to work well.

now that halloween is over I'm kind of uninspired for projects

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I don't own a 3d printer but I know somebody who owns one.
I want him to print a white gpu shroud of picrel.
But I don't want to replace the stock shroud I want to print something that goes on top of it.(covers it)
So basically a copy of the stock shorud but slightly enlarged and in white.
Which program should I use for that and how to start?
Never did this before only 2D gfx in photoshop.

>>2956001
FreeCAD, Fusion 360, or OnShape are your free software options. Scroll the thread: there was a discussion about these three. The simple shape should be easy to replicate, assuming you have and know how to use vernier calipers for measuring the shroud. Considering it should cover the original shroud you could get away with that somebody printing the cover in PLA, but I wouldn't bet on PLA holding up if you were to use it on the backplate too.

>>2954722
> for example nobody buys a Prusa anymore unless they are dead set on not financing winnie the pooh at all costs
Pretty sad
I always try to buy European, but I think I'll take a Bambu, the price is too much

>>2956001
if you are going that far make it so the shroud will hold larger fans like 120mm or 120mm slim. less noise by alot and it will run cooler

Is there a reasonably priced 400x400 corexy printer out there that's not tinkery crap?

>>2955960
Anything other than PLA NEEDS to be dried for good results with anything but the most simple of shapes. Yes, some people swear they don't have to dry their PETG and it prints as well as PLA, but your mileage may extremely vary.

>>2956001
onshape is the easiest to learn imo. you can import a picture of the card so you can model directly off of that

>>2955919
especially funny if the recommend dogshit printers to beginners to "learn the craft" or whatever.
No new user needs to learn how to shim a print bed or how many mm retraction a bowden extruder needs or how to flash marlin firmware. A1 mini is 200$

>>2955958
I honestly don't know.
>filaments have been stored in open air / ziploc sealed bags in basement
>a cool dry basement
>but on the east coast
>and are several (over 5) years old at this point (getting back into the hobby) and there has been minor flooding in the basement multiple times
I haven't touched any of them except the PLA in years but that one works well enough. I don't remember ever having the titular popping sounds when printing back then.

>>2955956
I meant AMS as the generic term, I'm getting the Qidi Box, so it can print and heat at the same time, but I'll run into issues where the drying temp of 1 filament is the glassing temp of another so I'd be risking having to move filaments in and out a lot.

>>2956001
Also, make sure you don't print it out of PLA.
GPUs are hot, and whilst it's not expected the shroud will heat up to GPU temperatures, it's not going to be zero heat transference either.

>>2956001
buy him a roll of white asa. onshape is in browser so you don't have to install anything. $10 calipers are going to be your best friend.

>>2956024
Closest is the 350x350mm printers like the SV08

>>2956097
Go for white ASA GF if you want to print it on an open printer. That or HTPLA GF.

>>2956024
>400x400 corexy printer
will we have commercial 1200x1200 printers in a few years? how big is too big?

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>>2956102
Elegoo makes the Gigastorm that can print 800mm x 800mm x 1000mm. You can print a whole Asian woman out of one. They're like $2K.

The problem is that it uses 4 separate heat beds which requires each one to be the same temperature, or you get issues.

>>2956045
Bambu kinda sucks in that they’re too good and too easy to get printing.

There is going to be 2 classes of :d printing people now, the people that grew up on $55 ender 3s that shitty Joann printer etc

People that built prusa Mendels

And the Bambu kids who can’t solve simple layer adhesion issues or will throw a printer away when the extruder breaks

>>2956108
fuck off namefag retard

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Any tips on how to tune things to fix this stringing? It's PLA. I dried the filament, and then tried drying it some more, it's as dry as it's gonna be. The stuff in the background is a brand I haven't used before (Kingroon), but the stuff in front didn't have any stringing problems when I printed it with a 0.4mm brass nozzle. I switched to a 0.6mm hardened steel nozzle, and this is as good as I've been able to get things. I've tried a bunch of different temps and retraction settings. Printer is Sovol SV06 Plus.

My friend wants me to print a Gargantuan Squiggoth for our D&D game before Wednesday. I have an Ender 3 and a Saturn 4 Ultra.

With FDM it'll take 4 days to print. I'm not even sure if it'll be done in time, but if it is I definitely won't have time to paint it.

With resin it'd be only like one day basically (barring no failures), but it's a shit ton of resin and doesn't seem cost effective to me.

What should I do? Print in FDM but just make it smaller?

>>2956105
>Orange giga niga
They should ahve done something with the extruder. This thing needs to print way bigger lines to be viable.
That german engineer youtube guy open sourced his quad spool hotend recently, that would fit nicely

>>2956215
Tell your friend that hes a faggot and to kill himself

I'm buying a bambu lab a1 as my first printer. Should I get the combo? honestly rn I don't care mucho about multicolor printing, but idk if the combo is that good of a deal and I could sell the ams for good money.

>>2956131
what is that test lol
>yep still stringing
>yep still stringing
>yep still stringing
>yep still stringing
make a temperature tower and look at what temperature it gets less.
most likely:
>print it colder
>dry your filament

>>2956131
Kinda a shitty test, unless you plan on printing minis or other models with little spikes. Looks like your effective temperature is getting high and part cooling is getting low, because the layer time is getting so small. Minimum layer time may help, but it will never look as good as a conventional retraction tower calibration print. You can always add a “purge tower” like thing to increase the layer time.

Teaching Tech has a good retraction test on his website, but he also links to a more comprehensive retraction cube. The one built into orcaslicer isn’t as comprehensive, but it’s nice and easy to use.

>>2956219
honestly if the price is good, go for it. apparently the AMS lite is pretty good, just takes up a lot of space since you can't put it on top. even if you don't print multicolor, having 4 filaments ready to load automatically is pretty convenient in itself
A1 is solid for a first printer, I had an A1 mini as my first sprinter, amazing little machine, i bought a p2s now to upgrade
will probably keep the mini though, i love it

>>2956219
Yeah, combo is probably worth.
Multimaterial is nice to have and if you really wanna do multi-colour prints then it can certainly do that.
I mostly just find it really convenient to have different colors ready to go and not fuck about with changing the spool every time I want to do a different material.

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>>2956215
poc, you could have printed two plates and been done priming by now

>>2956131
Steel nozzles are shit, swap back to brass any time you're not printing fiber.

>>2956024
>>2956101
SV08 Max is 500mm3

>>2956375
What printer are you using / if I upgrade in the future what should I buy?

My ancient Ender 3 is extremely slow.

anycubic cobra 3 refurbished from their official store for 97 euros yay or nay?

>>2956437
Nay

Is there a way to manually set the K factor for a given filament when you print with Bambu Studio? I swear to god this software is so frustrating. I went through the whole calibration process, wrote down the correct K value, and then accidentally deleted it from the "Manage Result" page.

So now how the fuck do I add it back again? I click Calibration > Manage Result, then click "New", try to add my info (filemant, K value) again but it doesn't save or do anything.

>>2956435
Looks like a Bambu machine of some kind from the build plate livery. Those are a popular choice these days. Good speed and quality for minimal fuss at a decent price point. Not good for data security, which may not matter for your use case, and Bambu has indicated that they'll wall their garden as much as people let them get away with..

>>2956456
Can't you just use local network mode only on them? Then you can completely block it from accessing the internet if you are really paranoid.

>>2956437
Medium to big no.

>>2956458
>Can't you just use local network mode only on them?
not him but you can, however when I tried LAN mode on my A1 mini I had nothing but issues... Prints wouldn't send and fail with random error codes at 70%, I had to re-pair my printer for it to work
of course it works perfectly in cloud mode

>start print late at night under poor light conditions
>doesn't stick to the print sheet. curls and goops up on the nozzle
>clean nozzle and print sheet, retry
>doesn't stick. curls and goops up on the nozzle
>clean nozzle and print sheet, turn on fan, lower nozzle, slow down the print. retry
>doesn't stick. curls and goops up on the nozzle
>WHY ISN'T IT STICKING TO THE SHEET FFFFFFFF
>go to sleep angry
>wake up in the morning to see that the sheet was upside down
>lol
>flip the sheet, start print, all is well
have a good day 3dpg

>>2956456
>Not good for data security, which may not matter for your use case
I don't really care if Winnie the Pooh has my data because the CIA already has it and they're infinitely worse.
Would a VPN fuck with the Bambu printer? I try to always keep mine on if I can.

>>2956471
The CIA doesn't make bootleg products to flood your market.

brb just gotta go dry MY FUCKING ABS

>>2956482
How do you know that they don't?

>>2956471
no because it connects through your network and you connect to it with credentials not by IP. to wit orca connects regardless of my VPN being on and I can connect through phone data which vary the phone's IP address.

>>2956470
this also happens with
>set the wrong sheet in slicer
and
>set the wrong filament type

>>2956435
x1c

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I'm gonna consooooooooooooom

>>2956494
Not worth their time. They get black budget money from drugs.

>>2956523
430 what?

>>2956526
Grams, it's actually very small.

>>2956526
cm up his ass. It's a signal between faggots.

>>2956526
Pounds, just a smallfat American

>>2956408
Or get a copper nozzle with a hardened steel insert, best of both worlds.

>>2956411
It’s kinda shit, but I guess it’s probably his best option. I was excited to see them changing to CAN and mainline Klipper (and improved hot end iirc) for the Sovol Zero, but they threw that all out the window for the Max. I hope they update the baseline SV08 in time for the INDX.

>be me
>be Prusa
>maker bigger printer
>make printer lighter
>advertise it as premium material choice
Am i going insane? Is this some euro supply meme? This has to be a joke.

>>2956526
Looks like it can store 16-17 rolls for each of the 6 main rows, plus ten at the top, so 112 max. Maybe he has 4 of them? Or 2 and he’s talking about pounds? But the post says “cabinet” singular. Or it’s multiple rolls deep?

>>2956542
Wait it’s lighter than the core one? Aluminium instead of steel could conceivably be more structurally sound, lighter, and more of a premium material, geometry permitting.

>>2956545
No, but only a few grams heavier. Point is, as with every machine with a motion system, ideally you want this thing as heavy as heavy possible. See every guy bolting their printer to tables or even walls. Yet here we're looking at the industry leader who chooses an unnecessary and more expensive material and sells it as feature. Absolute clowns show.

>>2956523
He's going to have a rough time once he finds out about moisture.

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>>2956549
I fucking hate moisture, bro.
I live in some dank ass region of England, and relative humidity is just 70%+ at all times.

>>2956541
>best of both worlds.
The best of both worlds is diamond, with thermal conductivity far superior to copper and abrasion resistance far superior to steel. The Diamondback nozzles are close to One Nozzle to Rule Them All, with the only serious competition from the Bozzle high-flow solid tungsten carbide nozzle, though that is only available in .5mm.

>>2956548
The Core 1 weighs about 50 pounds, which is about the most that a single person is permitted to lift in a typical occupational setting. Making the side panels of the Core 1 L fully steel rather than with aluminum inserts would have pushed it over that, meaning that print farm operators would face either logistics concerns or liability concerns.

>>2956561
>Meh
How do we move regular heavy machinery, how do we move tables, heck, how did every not-so-fit person carry the the prior core one already? But of course the fanboys will defend this endless nonsense.

>>2953789
>bambu
ngmi

>>2956563
>How do we move regular heavy machinery
Hoists / forklifts / pallet jacks / etc. Not something you'd want to need in your print farm.

>how do we move tables
Get a second person, one on each end. Not something you'd want your print farm manager to need to do when maintaining a printer.

>how did every not-so-fit person carry the the prior core one already?
The Core 1 is, as said above, light enough to not be a concern. But just barely. Another ten pounds (10% bigger dimensions means about 20% more surface area) would put the Core 1 L into the "employer liability" area if print farm operators are required to move it unassisted.

>>2956523
i honestly hate i started a hobby 3 weeks ago and already spent 5000$ niggas, i was just raised to be really frugal

>>2956563
>not understanding this is about education and commercial.
Imagine having to manage 30 printers along with four employees on medical leave collecting benefits.

>bambu printers have a bunch of stls for accessories, attechments, and upgrades
>makerworld etc have printing profiles for items specifically tailored for bambu printers
Did I fuck myself by getting a Qidi Q2 instead of a bambu just cus the community presence is going to be miniscule?

>>2956577
do you need more slop to print? because it's an endless bucket of slop in here

>>2956577
If ready-made profiles and mods are things that interest you, that is a drawback of less popular printers in general.

Somebody on fb marketplace is selling a bambu a1 new in box for $80 usd less than bambu's site, that's pretty good for new, right? I've never used a 3d printer before.