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How can i remove my fill plug without stripping it? its a size 8 hex. Do I have to shill out for an impact wrench?
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hmm embossed bolt difficult to get an induction heater on that. maybe an ice cube on the bolt after doing a grocery run. thermal expansion/contraction millimieter count when taking about porous materials and contact patch
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>>2956141
You can buy a hammer operated impact for a few bucks at harbor freight. You just hit the back of it with a hammer and it cams over
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Propane (or hotter, but be careful) torch and careful tugging on a breaker bar at the same time
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>>2956144
would you not be worried about cracking the casing?
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>>2956152
It wont take much, just carefully heat it a lil bit around
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Clean it off well, then use wd-40 or equivalent, apply some heat to it, use correct tool.
Once you have the correct tool snug and in place you can try smacking the tool with a mallet like an impact gun to try and jar it loose.
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>>2956141
Do you have the socket adapter to 3/8" drive for that? And a stout but smaller breaker bar (12-16")?

Or are you trying to use an allen wrench (hex wrench), which is the incorrect tool?

A rachet handle for a socket for a stuck strange fastener -strange as in, your mechanical memory sense of feel is not commonly used to the particular shallow number of threads or material- often-times allows too much play. You want a rigid breaker bar, because as you apply force, it tells you what is going on with the fastener, as there is no rachet mechanism to aborb or mistranslate tension.

Clean the bottom of that hole good, so the tool seats all the way. Then tap the back of the hex socket with a smaller hammer, to make sure it's bottomed-out. Then insert your breaker bar and try to loosen it with a tug, and feel how it responds. It should have been torqued to no more than ~15-20 foot-pounds going in. They'll be exact specs in your factory service manual (search online). Perplexity says 18-22lbs. You'll need a small torque wrench to set that so your ape ass doesn't overdo it.
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Put an Allen wrench in it and turn it

Left loosey
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>>2956141
I work with cnc machines that use hex for everything

Just buy the Mac RBRT set you can buy it also as gripedge off Amazon but then you don’t get the truck warranty
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>>2956166
I have a socket adapter and 18in breaker bar. Tried loosening it after having it sit with WD-40 for a few hours, didnt budge. The casing mounting moves quite a bit, so scared of pulling with too much force. Tried knocking the bar with a mallet, still no budging. Have not tried heat yet, need to buy a heat gun then but might be the next move.
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>>2956167
>Put an Allen wrench in it and turn it

This. Take a small pocket screwdriver or pick and get all the schmoo out of the hex hole. Then take a properly fitting hex key and tap it in there with a hammer so it seats completely. Then apply counterclockwise rotation with firm pressure.

It's not rocket appliances.
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>>2956194
>I have a socket adapter and 18in breaker bar. Tried loosening it after having it sit with WD-40 for a few hours, didnt budge. The casing mounting moves quite a bit, so scared of pulling with too much force. Tried knocking the bar with a mallet, still no budging. Have not tried heat yet, need to buy a heat gun then but might be the next move.

Put the socket adapter in there without the breaker bar and give it a few firm whacks with a decent size hammer to impact the fastener and shock it to unstick it from the case.
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>>2956194
Im telling you now man, wd40 soak is a boomer myth, its bullshit.

Careful heat and a little force
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>>2956194
All good advice below & above, but that WD-40 is glorified mineral oil, and they changed the formulation.

Free All from Cleveland OH (not PB Blaster, also from cleveland). Use that to help you break stuff free. It's easier on paint and smells like ballistol.
>>
Weld a nut to it. Handy for next time as well
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>>2956496
Put a bird on it
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>>2956496
This
The heat will break it loose

Or if you dont have a welder
Drill a hole in the fill plug and cut an m12 thread into the plug
(find a new plug and cut the right thread)
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>>2956194
Just fucking unscrew it. All this fucking ass pain because you couldn't be bothered to actually use the fucking wrench.
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>>2956816
nigger
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>>2956141
If it strips you can use a chisel on the side but you might fuck it up so you'd possibly need to order another before hand so you can get going again.
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>>2956141
Also, there are proper hex sockets for this job get the socket for it.
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>>2956923
I would grind flat spots on opposing sides and use vise grips at that point. That pan is cast, would be really easy to crack it with an errant blow from a chisel
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Guys how do i unscew this my wifes boyfriend wont help me
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>>2956144
>hit the back of it with a hammer
I bet you work at jiffy lube. Tha'ts what the "technician" did to my transfer case and he caused a shear fracture. Its been leaking slowly every since.
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>>2956141
By using the correct hex bit and a breaker bar.
Do not try to do it wrong, Tools are cheaper than broken parts.
It's internal hex appears to be undamaged. Ensure your hex bit is fully seated then if needed add a cheater pipe to the breaker bar because leverage improves control. Hammering tools just bounces them around while a controlled pull (or push if you use a boot toe which is an easy way to add force) frees most stuck hardware.

The casing will be moving on its rubber shock mounts. No worries on that front.

>>2957900
Those were used successfully on millions of motorbikes to remove engine side cover JIS and Phillips screws in the era before socket head case screws were standard, which were at least as delicate. They're also used to remove stuck panel screws on aircraft. Been there done both often.

An idiot with a hammer was your real problem. I've used mine since the 1970s including many customer motorbikes and broken nothing. The goal is NOT trying to bash the plug through the casting.



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