What parts do I need for a system that opens and closes a small hatch on a 12 hour timer? I can handle mechanical parts myself, but am certifiably retarded when it comes to electronics. I can just put parts together according to instructions, so what parts exactly do I need to make something like this?
people are scrapping those electric couches left and right they have decent actuators and prebuilt limits things are aligned and pre greased. you would be closing contacts from ground to one or the other. i think they are screw actuators.
>>2956504relays on a wal wart timer normal open and normal closed
>>2956493I'm not an expert either, but it sounds like you want a linear actuator. Serious hardware stores or farm supply outlets will carry them plus controllers, though you can just hook them up to power directly and they usually take 12v DC.
>>2956504This needs very little power and about 15cm of movement, so an electric couch actuator would be an overkill. A small screw actuator would be perfect though, as long as I find out what kind of timer to use and how to connect it to the actuator.>>2956507What's a wal wart timer?>>2956514Ah, linear actuator seems to be what I previously thought servo meant. Ebay does seem to have them, but I need the other parts of the system too.
I did prettty much exactly as you're asking OP except mine was temperature controlled. Using a simple 12vdc gear motor something like 15rpm output speed. Simple lever arms to open the hatch and limit switches interrupt the motor at the upper and lower positions. No Arduino required. You would just need to connect your relay coil to a mains powered 12v adapter, put the adapter on a timer socket whats-it.
>>2956518Nice! I still need a timer-controlled hatch, but the ability to make temperature-controlled ones too would open incredible opportunities for optimization around the house. Can you share a parts list for this?
>>2956520>timer relay
>>2956521I know the term timer relay now, but what kind of timer relay? What kind of motor it connects to? I assume the squares with two balls in them in the picture are the limit switches, but what are the other circles in the drawing? Is the diode at bottom left a heat sensitive diode, and what would I need to ask for to get the right kind? What's the A1 box, and what's the dashed line going up from it? If 1 and 3 both go to 12v, why are they in separate wires? When I said I can follow instructions and that's it, I really meant that I have literally zero idea what parts are compatible with each other.
>>295652012v timer relays are a thing, something like pic related. I am Ausfag so forgive the upside-down links. Just paste some similar descriptions into Amazon I'm sure it will come up. >12v gear motorhttps://www.ebay.com.au/itm/335036975776?_skw=12v+gear+motor&itmmeta=01K9NHH67903YS9281GW1DSW94&hash=item4e01c28aa0:g:1vMAAOSwPK5lCsCJ&itmprp=enc%3AAQAKAAAA0FkggFvd1GGDu0w3yXCmi1cu4wV41QXenRLR%2FkpkGwpW4mEeDu93xG07w04ZOFXFQxCzFay93Ui22MCKhqQMA2EzX4FVrbNXdR1CeD%2FH5Zo09UQXxiZf5dR%2BoZps7YkBUDxeNKKWDY3ukz0IXNb6L9FgU59Md0SjL7xBtT64R0qXD6MiZcFgZDlZE57Qli2NDnnMBAQVZstgzTs8BD5b9P3hMLNQC6PmpvNrX4Bz1yZ0dHR4QrSBmgGXZOld2QtwstDF2ul11E81Vyfcsf%2B780M%3D%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR5DkxLHNZg>for temp control I used STC-1000 module. It controls heaters as well for night time. https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/389124763268?_skw=STC1000&itmmeta=01K9NHKK809Y9G4BJM0JD7YF1Y&hash=item5a99a4ae84:g:TOoAAeSwV69o91RO&itmprp=enc%3AAQAKAAAA4FkggFvd1GGDu0w3yXCmi1e9MjFTNXaIFsfSCwhXesskOqSRiOzAsb5OMWDN0UcbP47V82jSzuZEgdL09Hh9stV8gJqV3CkkvY%2F8Xf06sqse159DBIh%2BNd6pFhp8Vh%2FalfXebuVNbwofOaVBSxU0Z6MMQ37SZl6NJ6xO5AOhGExT7vntBcNOKv2pCfVyTNUwIp5FSb2YAawgN%2BMa4mIdJj1G9G4PKBqzH8Ywx6zdhnVjVWLqmGBYaQDbzF31OnFP2fGpBoPRvVSiEcPwEhYq%2FC%2B%2FbzEHOIS16YdUsuyaH3SA%7Ctkp%3ABFBM2rTOsc1m>a DPDT relay is required to change the motor polarityhttps://www.jaycar.com.au/12v-dpdt-power-relay-10a-240vac-24vdc-contacts/p/SY4065>2 limit switch/microswitches https://www.jaycar.com.au/spdt-250v-5a-standard-micro-switch-with-lever/p/SM1039>12vdc power supply https://www.jaycar.com.au/12v-dc-1-5a-slim-power-supply-7dc-plugs/p/MP3486Other stuff like wire, enclosures etc you'll have to work out for yourself. All of the metal brackets and parts I made with a hacksaw, hand file and cordless drill.
>>2956528Oh, you weren't kidding. This project might be too advanced for you. But I will break-down my slap-shod, napkin-spec wiring diagram for you. >what are the other circles in the drawing?That's just how I denote a physical connection point. E.G a wire gets soldered here. > Is the diode at bottom left a heat sensitive diodeWhat even is that? No it's just a standard 3A diode. It protects everything in that circuit from the back EMF that the relay generates when it is switched off. >What's the A1 boxIt's K1 (napkin tier drawing) it's just the coil of the realy, applying 12v to it will change the state of the relay. >what's the dashed line going up from it?That's how I draw a mechanical connection, saying the coil K1 of the relay moves the two switches the dashed line is connected to>If 1 and 3 both go to 12v, why are they in separate wires? Terminals 1 and 2 are connected to a constant 12v supply, this never changes. Terminals 3 and 4 are connected to a switched 12v supply. This voltage is switched on and off by the timer relay. Terminals 1 to 4 down the left side of the drawing are all inside a 4-pin connector in my setup. Before anyone else says my electronics are third world, I am a mechanical tradesman not an electronics graduate. It still gets the job done and has been working daily for nearly 6 months now.
>>2956530Thank you! This list is invaluable for this and any future projects. Just to make sure before I start ordering parts, is the diode on the drawing where the thermostat goes in the heat controlled version, and where the timer goes on a timer controlled version? I assume the A1 in the drawing is the DPDT then. The relay has a lot of legs on it while there's only one dashed line going from A1 to what I assume is a switch at the top, so how exactly do the connections go?
>>2956533Ah, so all the things except the diode in those red boxes is the interior of the DPDT relay, with the circles meaning the legs of the component? And the 3 and 4, the two bottom left terminals of the component, connect to the timer/thermostat?
>>2956546Yes, you've got it
>>2956552Awesome! Now, I might be getting too ambitious with things I barely understand, but considering I don't need that much torque in my system, would it work just as well by replacing every 12V part with their 5V equivalents? As in:>5v gear motor:https://www.ebay.ie/itm/317440822985>5v thermostat modulehttps://www.ebay.ie/itm/134123315953>(or in this case, a 5v timer)https://www.ebay.ie/itm/405604021773>>5V DPDT relayhttps://www.ebay.ie/itm/205116725170And finally, an usb charger as the power supply, and I presume the same microswitches work with a 5V system as well as a 12V one. Would it be this easy, or should I just go with a 12V system instead?
>>2956554Well sure, if the gear reduction on the motor is enough it could move a mountain with 5v. The micro switches will work usually on anything up to 120v/240v. I only went with a 12v system because it was patching into a control box that I had already made years ago that used 12v.
>>2956565Parts are now ordered and should be arriving in December. Thanks again!
What about an electrical actuator connected to a solar panel?Sun comes up, solar panel powers actuator, hatch opens.Sun goes down, no more electricity, hatch closes.
>>2956546>>2956554If you just want a thermostat actuated window/hatch opener, they sell exactly these for greenhouses. They’re filled with gas that expands when it heats up so purely mechanical and wireless. “Automatic greenhouse vent opener” on Amazon
>>2956974yeah people are retards theres automatic ones that open/close when hot and cold
>>2956974>>2957243There's more than one way to fuck the indian. In my case none of those off the shelf items were suitable for various reasons. One reason being they're all designed for full scale, walk-in greenhouses. Plus I wanted it to interact with an already existing home made system.
>>2956681Do you mean that it would use electricity to keep it open, and then slide closed when there's no power to keep pushing the hatch up anymore? In my case, it needs to work on a timer rather than sunshine/temperature basis.>>2956974I've always wanted something like this for other parts of the house, but the size is excessive for tiny 10-15cm hatches. Also, unless there's a way to adjust the temperature limits, closing at 15C is way too cold already.
yea
