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Here's the toothed joint at work.

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Has anyone built their own enclosure? Any guides?

Was thinking of using a cardboard box, since I have a nice durable one with no dents or creases. Not sure about the door though. Might go to a hardware store and get a transparent acrylic sheet. Would I need fans?

>>2964623
The common way was building one out of ikea lack tables.

>>2964623

Wholesome acrylic box probably best bet, cardboard will work for sure, but if thing catch fire you will have nasty surprise. I used cardboard enclosure foiled from inside for some time, It does a job, more or less and totally unsafe. As for me I use Ender made soft enclosure, no filter, no fans, no heating. Just nylon material, with foil coating inside, light tube carcass and zipper as means to close it. Printed in it things like nylon, ABS and PP, works OK, probably some temp control and heating won't hurt but since I can do good job without this, fuck it. Still heated chamber would be nice, but not for carboard box, fire is a thing and you should avoid it.

>>2964620
Nice cat. have soft spot for those furballs.

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>>2964618
>my grip in the OP
The lighting made it look like there was stringing on it but it came out fine. I ended up not even using it, though.

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>>2964618
>You wouldn't download a girlfriend, would you?
https://youtube.com/shorts/mRZRvscJC9Q?si=A3lhFnR51Ba7vrX-

>>2964679
https://youtube.com/watch?v=mRZRvscJC9Q
Delete your fucking post and repost it without tracking links newfag.

>>2964689
>Oh no, google will find out you looked at 3D printing content!

>>2964694
the tracking links kill embeds
it also add YOUR browsing history to my youtube, so if you were watching nothing but anime waifu abuse ASMR before that video, im going to get recommended that shit.

>>2964714
>the tracking links kill embeds
Technically it was the /shorts/ bit that killed the embed. Tracking links don't kill it though they should.

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should I drop a cool 3k on an H2C?

>>2964714
>he logs into youtube like a good goy and doesn't scrub his cookies automatically on exit

>>2964728
>should I drop a cool 3k on an H2C?
Is that a lot of money for you?
Are you buying this just for hobby use?

>>2964728
It's okay. But, I feel like if you spent that money on 4 P2Ss you'd probably get more out of it.

H2C is faster, makes less waste and whatever. But, it's not as fast as 4 P2Ss you could get for the price.

>>2964728
The nozzle changer is a meme. Sure it reduces waste, but doesn't eliminate it. It Wait for someone to properly implement Bondtech's INDX in a complete system.

>>2964729
>he thinks they don't track you when not logged in
>he thinks clearing cookies actually makes you untrackable

anon, i get stuck setting up friends and family members devices constantly, and you would be AMAZED how much data get carried over to a fresh install of chrome on an out of the box windows laptop as soon as you connect a wifi signal and open youtube.

family friend is a HUGE conspiracy nut, getting his daughters school laptop set up (all offline, no MS account, windows 10) and youtubes front page was chock full of antivax vids.
we signed in to her youtube kids account, and they vanished.

same thing with a single friends work computer, except it was those "dating in the 3rd world".

im not saying they're spying, just that the recommendation algorithm will use ANY information they can get to pin you down and get you seeing content to stay on the platform.

>>2964649
Non-crosslinked natural rubber is a thermoplastic and can be injection moulded, and probably printed with a pellet extruder, or maybe a filament extruder if you store the filament in dry ice. Then you could vulcanise it in an autoclave or whatever once it’s printed.

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Anybody have advice for ironing? I would love to have a really nice smooth finish on this flat topped part but when I tried it most of it was mediocore at best and a good chunk of it was worse than if I hadn't ironed at all. A few small sections came out really good. Pic related, I have close ups if needed.

I'm looking at most of it and it seems like it's not getting enough material to flow into the gaps? Do I need to increase the flow rate?

>>2964784
You would want to dial in your flow rate for each individual roll of filament (could be +/-1% between different rolls of the same brand, and +/-3-5% for different brands of the same material), slow your top layer speed to 20mm/sec ALWAYS, and if you insist on still using ironing, then increase your ironing retract so you don't smear molten precum all over the part.
OR, you can switch to ABS or ASA and learn how to vapor smooth; it's both easy and addictive.

>bambu a1 doesn't have a usb port
are you farking me?

>>2964789
just use an sd card bro

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$1500 printer
$20 PEI plate
$20 PLA
$4 model
$7 superglue
---------------
$1.47 income because my daughters friend insisted on paying me for the toy

I hear this business SCALES? should I buy 50 or 100 more printers?

>>2964689
they seriously couldn't find a 4th square pattern? I'm so triggered

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>>2964728
fuck yes

>>2964730
>>2964735
>>2964741
wrong

>>2964784
damn monofilament dudes will try ANYTHING

>>2964912
What does this have to do with only using one filament? What would I use a second kind for here?

>>2964879
Wait, did you fuck up a PEI plate while using PLA?

Does anyone have experience making projects that make use of air pressure? I want to use balloons and water bottles to hold air for different 3D printing projects. I just bought a couple foot pumps as well. So my main questions are how can I drill a hole in a water bottle, insert a 3D printed socket that goes into it on one end and adapts the hose of a pump on the other and make it air tight. I have a hot glue gun as well as other adhesives and O rings. Also, is there a way to print a kind of air tight valve that can restrict or allow air flow?

>>2964948
I'd use beeswax to make it airtight.
Worked for my airbrush.

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>>2964932
He's joking saying the 'cats' could have been printed on instead of woven separately.

Although judging by your confusion and the electrical components in the background, is it possible that isn't a green spool filament but actually an led noodle?

>>2962072
its a cryogrip pro glacier, should be better than >80% of plates

>>2964961
doesn't matter the material, you're printing way to far away from it.
instead of just assuming the newest tool makes it fine learn how your printer works.

fuck, it so obvious some people posting in this thread never had to deal with painters tape or glass beds.

>>2964963
everyone has to start somewhere anon

>>2964954
Oh yeah it's an LED noodle lol. Honestly I kinda suspected that's what they were thinking but it felt funny to act like I didn't. That might be a bad habit lol, I don't know

I could do dual filament with my qidi x pro or flash forge creator pro. Although I'd have to split it into 2 prints because the bed isn't big enough I think.

>>2964972
yeah, but these mongoloide are 'starting' on $2000 machines with all the bells and whistles
i started on a $200 monoprice select mini.

i learned how to make the best of a subpar machine, and gained skills for future machines.
this dude cant even figure out why his first layer isn't sticking when its CLEARLY not squishing at all.
and even with all that, the printer STILL sometimes works for him.
and instead of doing the basic solution of googling the issue, or basics, he asked on 4chan for help.

>>2964948
This is an interesting line of thinking! First off you might need extra wall layers to be fully air-tight depending on how modern/precise your printer is, and if you want to have an air tank printed you'll definitely want it for strength.

>So my main questions are how can I drill a hole in a water bottle, insert a 3D printed socket that goes into it on one end and adapts the hose of a pump on the other and make it air tight.
I have a few ideas about this. First, rather than drilling a hole in the bottle, you might consider printing an adapter that just screws onto it. That might be hard to get a good seal though.
Another idea that might work is to melt a hole in the cap with a soldering iron or drill a hole and then print an adapter that pokes through the hole with a flange and an o-ring on the inside part of the cap. That way the air pressure can't launch the adapter out of the bottle and more pressure will hold it tighter.

As for valves, thats gonna involve a little more thought. I've made back-check valves by taking duct tape and taping it onto itself to make a nonsticky flap and have that rest against the opening of a water bottle that's been cut in half and the top part turned around facing into the bottle and then the two ends duct taped closed and a hole in the bottom to let air out. Not what you're after but maybe could provide some inspiration.

Actually I just had an idea for a really simple air valve. Just kink the air tube. You could print a device that holds the tube in a U-shaped position that doesn't restrict air flow, then have a 3d printed threaded screw with a plate attached to the end that pushes down on the tube to tighten it's bend radius until it kinks and cuts off flow. You might be able to get decent flow control out of that too. A similar idea would be just a jacket that the tube goes through in a straight line and the screw and plate just push down on it. Not as robust but simpler.

>>2964963
>painters tape or glass beds
do people not use these anymore?

>>2964984
>print an adapter that pokes through the hole with a flange
Side note on this part: I get the idea you're probably not working with really high pressure but do keep in mind that the horizontal plane is weaker than the other axis so if something is trying to pull your adapter out of a hole, it's more likely to pull the thing apart if you print it straight up and down. Again probably won't be an issue but thought I might mention it.

Are larger models like buildings meant to take like 16 hours to print on the bambu A1? Also, how much filament would you use to print such a thing?

>>2964985
no I got a decent printer. still rockin the gluestick occasionally though.

>>2964989
design and infill matter a lot. If you just plop a rectangle building down you're going to get infill for the whole thing. remove the floor so its' a shell and you just traded infill for supports. post some model pics or point me to the .stl and I'll see if I can give you some advice.

>>2964985
please if you use glass change it for a slab of cast aluminium...

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saw this on an amazon review for hygrometers
>each spool individual packaged
>custom printed base with mount for hygrometer
>transparent bin labelled with filament color
i'm picking up some tubs that i can store 6 spools in and i thought i was being autistic

>>2965007
>colour label when you can see the colour clearly
Why?

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>>2964948

>>2965008
I could see doing that if you're colorblind or potentially employing colorblind individuals, but in the case of a print farm employer you should have SKUs on your shit.

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>>2965017
color+material type for a homelab sure but just color in transparent tubs feels either performative, retarded or maybe they were just excited. still feels like they did it for social media

>>2964728
Depends. Are you interested in printing engineering materials? Get a H2D with an AMS2.
Are you printing models with lots of different filament colors? Get a H2C + n * AMS2.
Do you just want a reliable printer for functional parts? Get a H2S with a 5kg spool of PETG.
I got the last option for home use and it's nice to not having to handle filament much or waste time on the AMS going brrrr. I do print only functional parts and no multi-color knick-knacks.

>>2964741
Why not just wait for true color printers?

>>2964728
Yes, I bought one, shits fucking awesome, it's very easy to add casual coloring and text to things like gridfinity bins when there is no downside apart from a little extra print time

>>2964985
As with all other technology, 3d printers also improved and they finally figured out that glass beds was the most worthless idea ever conceived. Competent brands use build plates in aluminium and you only need to apply some glue stick for hard to print materials like abs

>>2965007
might be cheaper to print them bro

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>>2965102
it's close but the walmart tubs come with rubber gaskets

How do you know which parts of an FDM print need supports? Bambulab auto supports seem to apply them to areas that don’t appear to need them but idk

>>2965123
Picrel for what I mean

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>>2965129
Fuck

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>>2965130
Also my first prints. Quality is… eh? Any tips for increasing it? Ideally without doubling the print time

>>2965008
i guess so you can see the colors while not having proper illumination, i have storage areas in which checking which dark color would be difficult. And if you label part of them you may as well label all of them

>>2965131
This is absolutely insane quality for an FDM machine, especially if it is one of your first prints. Don't expect much better results if you're going to do figurines and things like that with such humongous overhangs and tiny details
If this is all you're gonna print you should've probably gone for a resin printer, or at least something with dual extrusion that can print water soluble filament for supports

>>2965130
>>2965123
>How do you know which parts of an FDM print need supports?
There's a bit of an art to it and the slicer (probably) does some guessing, so reslicing it might generate different supports.
I don't know Bambu Studio so I can't say how it does supports but those wavering towers are actually an attempt to minimise support contact with the structure. It's how the slicer can ensure something is supported when it overhangs the edge by just a little bit, it starts off with a larger support further away from the structure and walks it in at a stable rate, reducing the size of it as it goes and then just reaches out at the end to the thing that needs to be supported.
It's meant to make it easier to cut supports off and minimise damage doing so.
If you look through detailed options in the slicer, you should see some that are like:
>max angle that requires supports
>max overhang that requires supports
>min distance from support tower to print
Go through those and see what sort of things influence the slicer's decision to generate supports.
You can use a support calibration test (as in find a print that's designed to test supports) and print it with a few different settings like the ones above and see what works and what doesn't.

Or you can just leave it on auto and it will probably be fine.

>>2965131
>>2965131
>babby's first prints. Quality is… eh?
It's pretty good, what's up with the one on the right? That looks like it ended up significantly worse than the other two. Something to do with layer height maybe.

The one on the left looks like you maybe want to reduce layer size or...I'm not sure how but there might be something like z-retract or z-hop that would reduce the obvious layer lines on the diagonal braces. That's probably a difficult part to print smoothly, the sides of the print look fantastic.
I can see a little stringing here and there, messing with temperature is usually the way to fix that.

The one in the middle/rear looks great.

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dont think it was ever this low
this sunlu filament came from atlantis or something, it was completely unusable

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>>2965136
>water soluble filament for supports
The fuck?!
You can just wash supports off?

Meanwhile I'm sitting here with a side cutter and pliers like this print had me restrained in a basement.

>>2965186
>>water soluble filament for supports
Yeah my first printer had dual extruders and even though its archaic compared to say a K1 it's still really useful for soluble supports or even just multi-color prints. There's other materials that disolve in other solvents for printing stuff that doesn't stick to PVA supports very well.

>>2965186
you never headr of pva filament or some others?
nta but i worked with an stratasys and soluble filament back then
filament were cartridges with the extruder and the motor incluided, it was curious as they were way simpler than what we use, a regular dc motor and maybe even didnt had temp sensor? or was basic, as the extruder was made for a very specific material.
also fuckers expected us to put a new plate for every print kek
fun times.

>>2965191
>you never headr of pva filament or some others?
Nope.
I started on an Anycubic Kobra Max and that's what I still have.
Until recently, I hadn't done anything more adventurous than PLA+ like polywood or PLA/CF or maybe TPU95 on a really wild night.

>>2965192
>>2965192
I'm pretty sure HIPS (High Impact PolyStyrene) is soluble in limonene (from citrus fruit peels but very concentrated) and is a good compatiable support material for PETG or ABS. ABS is soluble in acetone. But yeah PVA is chemichally very similar to children's glue sticks so if you soak it in warm water it will begin to degrade. You usually want to pull off what you can first or do a pre-soak and then pull off what comes easily and only fully dissolve the stubborn bits but that's just for the sake of time honestly. With enough water changes and time and maybe some gentle agitation it will all eventually dissolve. Very useful for printing very delicate stuff.

I got an Ender 3 V3 KE, which replaced a heavily modified older Ender 3 clone. My last printer I spent so much time trying to get it properly that it burned me out from the hobby. With the KE I haven't spent nearly as much time with getting it working properly, but I'm equally annoyed with it. Had this bug where when you try to print in petg at higher temps it would suddenly drop to pla temps and ruin the print. I think a new firmware fixed this, but it was broken for like 6 months.

So I was thinking of getting a Bambu labs one. I was thinking the P2S, but I'm worried that it sucks for PETG. Does it? So many videos showing it do really well with PLA, but PETG I see filament bulbs clogging the extruder.

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>>2965259
There's also PVB filament, which is soluble in IPA and doesn't absorb a shit ton of water from the air like PVA does. I'd love to see a chart like this one:
https://toms3d.org/2024/12/06/try-these-filament-combinations-for-multi-material-and-supports/
But with more filaments included. Especially engineering and soluble filaments.

Apparently standard PLA dissolves in concentrated bases like sodium/potassium hydroxide drain cleaner, but I would want to first test the other filaments to see if they're harmed by the hydroxide at all. Not having a volatile solvent means you don't have to worry about it evaporating, but it does prevent you from distilling it off to reuse it.

>>2965285
Personally I think you're best off getting a printer that can reliably print ABS so you can forget about PETG entirely. The main reason to use PETG over PLA is its heat resistance and UV resistance, which ABS and ASA are better at. ASA is more expensive than PETG, but ABS should be cheaper than PETG if you aren't after UV resistance. The P2S should be pretty good at ABS, but one with a heated chamber like the H2S or whatever Qidi printer people recommend these days would be better for sure. You can add your own 3rd party chamber heater to any enclosed printer, but I doubt Bambu would let you control it from the printer like you could with a Klipper machine.

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I'm designing yet another air purifier in freecad and I'm wondering of adding a stator or stator-like blades to 'help' the flow straight upwards but since I know shit about fluid dynamics I just can't make sense on what the fuck I'm doing.

Currently the idea is to have some central 'cup' so there is no turbulence on the backside of the motor; this i've seen on plenty other designs, I think this is just fine.

The next I've done are concentrical 'circles' that are inclined inwards; in hopes of pushing the air to the inside and make it some sort of a column? This can be profoundly retarded, please give feedback on the design/angle of these blades (the constraints can also be retarded; I'm new at cad)

I also need something to hold the circular blades; and I've thought about using the fan chassis blades that support the motor (in red in my picture) as the base for an extra four blades that add some more "twist" like a cooking pan lid does for the air to go upwards instead of 'everywhere'

Am I overcomplicating this?

>>2965411
>Am I overcomplicating this?
Immensely but that's part of the fun I assume.

Get yourself some incense or a mini-smoke machine so you can track the airflow.
You might think of some interesting visualisations you can do with an IR camera too.

>>2965411
Why are you making this, what will straightening the flow achieve?

Those axial computer fans produce very little pressure and anything on the backside will increase backpressure and reduce flow, you might even stall the flow or reverse it. You need a centrifugal type fan if you want to force the air to go through some kind of restriction.

The air coming out of an axial fan is spinning, if you want to straighten it out into laminar flow then you need flat guide vanes like the fins of a rocket, not circles.

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>>2965433
Its not necessarily straigtening, but pushing the air as upwards as possible so the same now-clean air does not recirculate to the filters back again; and also, in the enclosure, because it pushes up, it moves air in the whole chamber by convection-like currents and not just in the surrounds. All commercial purifiers do this.

This is the autistical goal, in practice I guess it does not make much difference for small purifiers like this one unlike whole-room big ones.

>>2965415
Yeah, incense is my go-to airflow analysis tool hahaha

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>>2965434
If that's your goal then get a centrifugal blower type fan, you can put straight vanes on the outlet and direct the air.

>>2965411
First off, what's the purpose of that specific fan? You're talking about air purification: did you start with a mass flow in mind? Do you have a target filtration level? Are you just slapping shit together?
Nothing wrong with doing a quick and dirty prototype, but what you want to achieve is extreme optimization without the fundamentals.

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For my first project I want to make bottle crates (likely 3x3) that can form a rack. I got into kegging and I make seltzer water for my family reusing glass bottles, but they drink a LOT and it goes fast. So I want crates that are moveable, stackable, and accessible.

Regular crates (bottles facing straight up vertical) aren't great. The bottles are tall which wastes space when stacking. And you can only grab from the top crate before needing to move it aside for the next crate.

So I try searching for 'racks' that may already exist. But there are major flaws. All the print files I see have bottles face perfectly horizontal, which is asking for them to slip out and cause accidents. My family is especially clumsy and it's also impractical for transporting. There are 'wine racks' but they are angled down (which I learned is to keep the corks wet) and often have large gaps inbetween. And again, not transportable.

-

I was just wondering if this design is okay, or if I'm wasting my time because this already exists, or if it could be more efficient. I know it's kinda silly to ask but it's gonna be my first major CAD/print job and I don't want to mess up. Idk if this is even the right thread to talk about designing stuff or if you only talk about printers.

>>2965468
look into a sodastream style carbonation on demand, my family love being able to just carbonate cold tap water when they want it.

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>>2965434
Use a duct to force the inlet and outlet to be far from one another.

>>2965468
From my experience, printing anything larger than 500g probably isn't worth it unless you can't avoid it. Below a certain scale, you can lighten up prints with infill thanks to the square-cube law, but the bigger you make it the thicker it needs to be. When we're talking about holding up multiple kilograms of mass, you're starting to get to that less efficient design paradigm. Larger prints naturally take longer to make and use up more material, and need a larger printer to make, though if you can use ABS it will probably be decently strong and decently cheap. With a larger nozzle (e.g. 1mm) it might be worth making these.

As for the design, personally I'd slant them more, maybe 45 degrees. That or have the bottles on their side with a hole at the bottom-front, just like those battery dispensers where they roll out the bottom, but that's probably a bad idea for something carbonated. Instead of rolling out the bottom, maybe you push the bottles up through a similar hole at the top-front. With a slot in the front for fingers, or maybe a lever. Could even make it ratcheting so the bottles don't go back down, though that would make the centre of mass pretty high.

Do you use a CO2 tank? How feasible would it be to have it carbonated on demand as the other anon says? If it's just tap water and CO2 it seems unreasonable to store it in its least dense form. Just take one bottle off the machine, and put another uncarbonated bottle on as you do so.

New to FDM printing, should I be concerned that auto supports aren’t generating for the cone bit?

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>>2965479
I’m a retard

>>2965479
>>2965481
They're overhanging by something around 45 degrees, not shallow enough to be the 30 degree threshold.

>>2965477
i feel like a that's overcomplicating it a bit.

>>2965468
anon, look into model paint racks, they're about what you're looking for, but smaller, since the entire point is to have all colors available without moving anything.

to cut down on plastic and print time, maybe look into a normal crate, then print the inserts.

>>2965482
Ah, so it doesn’t need supports?

>>2965472
>sodastream style carbonation on demand
Those machines suck. You need to use their special plastic water bottle to screw tight to the machine. It's difficult to tell how carbonated it is. And it's just 1 serving meaning you'd have to pour it into a glass and refill again to make another. The CO2 cartridges are small and expensive and will run out fast (although you can do a mod to hook up to a larger non-proprietary tank). After doing my research, I got a standard 5 gal corny keg and a 5lb CO2 tank with a regulator. I hook it all up, wait a day, then pour 25 bottles in one go that lasts about 1-2 weeks with my family.

>>2965477
Technically I can pour from keg to cup, but we prefer having bottles ready. Main reason is because I don't have a practical space to put the keg stuff. I do it in a cold garage (which is great since I don't need a fridge for the keg in, and a keg HAS to be cold to carb well). Would love to have it in the kitchen but can't. Second reason, we like to grab a fresh bottle every morning to take with us to work or wherever. Pre-filling saves time and you don't need to keep track of your personal bottle (i.e. did I leave it in the car? Did someone else drink out of this? Maybe I want 2 bottles today). Third reason, bottles make it easy to keep track how much water is left. I can't see inside a keg, and I don't have a continuous water supply hooked up. I have to refill manually. So to have someone try refilling themselves and go "ANON THE KEG IS EMPTY" every week would be annoying. With bottles I can make a new batch before the last runs out. I guess a solution would be to get a second keg. I might consider getting one some day.

I appreciate the thought put into the rolling dispenser design, but I'm gonna flat out deny it because the bottles are glass and carbonated, and seems overly complicated.

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>>2965485
>anon, look into model paint racks
They do look exactly like I wanted

Although now I'm second guessing myself if 3D-printing entire shelves is even practical. Like the other anon said, it could take a lot of filament. And more importantly, idk if it could handle the weight (I only have PLA). This might be a wood job (although I know even less about woodworking)

I know you were talking about the models of small racks with individual slots. If these were tiny paint bottles, I would definitely just print. But considering the scale/weight, something like pic related might work better.

>>2965503
i was mostly mentioning them to give you ideas, not as a 1 to 1 scale up, but yeah, i think a wood rack is your go to here, maybe just print some little slidestops.

just get some 2x4s and screw shelves on at and angle, and bam, bottle rack.

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>>2965468
just go to a liquor store they'll give you this shit for free

>>2965510
That's what I'm currently using and it's disintegrating. I want an upgrade and use space more efficiently. I'm gonna go with wood shelves instead. Sorry for wasting everyone's time. I over-complicated this.

>>2965500
>Technically I can pour from keg to cup
I was thinking more having an adapter from your cylinder to your bottle of choice. You could probably also just buy the same fittings and bottles used by sodastream machines, have 2-4 connected to the same big cylinder and regulator, with a manual valve on each. But if having the bottles indoors and the CO2 and stuff outdoors is a requirement, then yeah a rack probably is the way to go.

The paint rack shown here >>2965503 has a steeper angle so the bottles can't fall out, and being wall mounted it's compact and there isn't any risk of it tipping over.
You may still get some use out of 3D printing jigs to hold the wood at the right angle and spacing when you cut it or fasten it together. It's also an option to print some (TPU?) buffer pieces to stop the bottles clinking against one another.

>>2964741
This.
Prusa is currently integrating it with their CORE ONE.

That'll be a true gamechanger.

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>>2965523
>I was thinking more having an adapter from your cylinder to your bottle of choice
That's dangerous when it comes to glass. A glass bottle could explode at 40psi (which is what I set my keg at). I can't directly carbonate in the bottles. Don't want to risk it.They used to make vintage glass siphons like pic related that were really thick and covered in metal hatching. Not worth it since a keg is the same thing but better.

Idk if 3D printing an adapter works anyway since I don't think you can make FLA parts meant to handle high pressures. There will likely be gas leaks.

I already have about 30 nice glass pellegrino bottles, but even if I did replace them for plastic ones, plastic leeches and also makes water taste weird. Even sodastream recommends replacing theirs every 2 years. Glass is also easier to clean than plastic, especially if I want to mix syrups inside.

All in all, not a good idea. Making a custom setup to hookup 4 bottles is way less practical than making a single large batch in a 5 gallon keg. I don't see the point anyways since the original issue was storing the bottles in crates, not needing to make 4 at a time. Don't see what that would achieve.

>>2965540
>since I don't think you can make FLA parts meant to handle high pressures
This looks like a job for engineering resin. Sirayatech Blu has been used for rocket engines.

>>2965540
Ahh, so the carbonation pressure is significantly higher than the storage pressure. My misunderstanding.
I certainly understand your desire to keep using glass bottles, the only alternative I'd accept would be thick borosilicate or stainless steel, and that would be expensive and difficult to obtain.
I wouldn't 3D print any high pressure adapters, if they're pressure resistant they probably won't be food safe too. I suspect a lot of the carbonation adapters for connecting big gas cylinders to sodastream hardware. Sketchy adapters on amazon, at least. I'm starting to consider doing the same as my dad drinks sparkling water from supermarket 1.5L bottles over dinner. The larger bottles go flat before he's finished with them.

>>2965528
That printer costs 3 times as much as equivalents. It will be cheaper than the XL and might compete with the H2C, but it won't exactly be competing with the Snapmaker U1.

>>2965468
Tilting the bottles is not a great idea since you waste lots of space, just look at all the unused space! Also, if you make your own stuff that goes fast, why not use a bigger vessel like the bottles used for water dispensers?
I think this is the classic case of a noob over-complicating things and creating problems that don't actually exist. Do not waste filament on this idea... you will most definitely throw it in the trash after using it a while.
Sorry, anon, but this is a shit idea and you shouldn't design practical stuff while high. Trust me, I know.

>>2965489
It's like in the game "Lemmings" where the stair builder guy builds stairs and climbs up that way. The rule of thumb is that you can print at least a 45 degree overhang or steeper. Go check out "torture test" models on makerworld or other sites to test the overhand capabilities of your printer. These test models usually test overhang angles, bridge-lengths, tolerances for holes and bolts, etc.
Like this:
https://makerworld.com/en/models/1304150-all-in-one-torture-test-fast-compact-v2?from=search#profileId-1337027

So my slightly tech illiterate brother in law and totally tech illiterate sister got my nine year old niece a AD5X for Christmas. I'm the tech/diy guy but I've never messed with a 3D printers at all. I'm sure I can figure things out and will enjoy my trial by fire. I just need to find some quick prints to show the printer off with. Anyone want to point me at something neat? She's a little tomboy, dinosaurs over ponies. I tripped over some neat flexi animals that she'll get a kick out of but might be a little tricky for a first print. I just want to find a thing or three to start with and have those going while the niece and I browse for other prints and figure things out. Any ideas?

>>2965601
Does she like any movies or media properties with readily-printable models available? Puzzles? Animals? Are there any pre-sliced gcodes that came with the printer?

>>2964679
>>2964689
so what's the softest material you can 3D print now with off the shelf consumer hardware?
I looked around a little and so far I haven't seen anything softer than 40A which is too hard for a fleshlight/onahole.

>>2965605
That's most of the stuff I'm looking up. Fave movies and whatnot. I was just wondering if there was something general that was "Hey, this was cool, check it out" kind if things. Neat little puzzles or devices that are quick to knock out.
>Are there any pre-sliced gcodes that came with the printer?
Oh shit, I didn't even think of that. I'll have to do a little digging. I don't have the thing sitting in front of me but I can probably find out after a little searching. Thanks for that, it'll be good to know.

>>2965608
You can probably get softer than standard elastomer filaments by using foaming filaments, not that you'd want porous foamed filament for any hygenic application. Thicker filaments (i.e. 3mm) are easier to push down an extruder than the more common 1.75mm standard, but I don't see anyone taking advantage of that to sell unusually soft elastomer filaments.
Pellet extruders offer the ability to both print exceedingly soft thermoplastic elastomers, but also the ability to print raw industrial pellets that people haven't seen a market to make into 3D printing filament. Pellet extruders have their own issues, but I think you could buy such an extruder to bolt onto a cartesian frame for a thousand dollars or less. See:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SaUFj3iNcs8
5A TPU on Greenboy's cobbled together extruder, which he sells on his website for $700.
There was another guy on youtube trying to make one, but the extrusion width kept varying as individual pellets got melted one at a time. No clue how Greenboy got it right. Looks like it might be worth doing for big prints.

I got some mould-making casting silicone recently, but I'm not unemployed enough to make an ona with it.

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>>2965436
>Yeah, incense is my go-to airflow analysis tool hahaha
There are a bunch of mini fog machines like pic rel for $40 but you can also get this one below for about the same price, though the big ones usually start around $100.
https://www.amazon.com/Automatic-Preheating-Indicator-Halloween-Christmas/dp/B08BQYNPXV/136-4568603-9869918

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>>2965540
>They used to make vintage glass siphons like pic related
They still do, not all in glass.

You can still print some bottle guides for a shell, it will look pretty much like the top gasket on an engine's cylinder block and just hold the bottles snuggle on the shelf and maybe at the right angle if you feel like getting clever with CAD.

>>2965608
>I haven't seen anything softer than 40A which is too hard for a fleshlight/onahole
Don't use 3d printed stuff directly for sex. It's really not insertion safe, either way.
You use it to print moulds, then finish those moulds with smoothing and gap filling, then cast your toy with the mould using latex or whatever.

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>>2965434
I'm using this on an axial fan in my stereo cabinet but i have it blowing out instead of in

>>2965617
>$40 for a $10 chinese vape mod with a $5 aquarium pump or brushless fan in a $0.30 laser cut wood case
good lord

>>2965634
>>$40 for a $10 chinese vape mod with a $5 aquarium pump or brushless fan in a $0.30 laser cut wood case
Sounds like you know how to build one then.
For me, $40 would be worth not having to spend a few hours on doing it myself, plus I don't have a laser cutter for the plywood though I guess you could print that too.
If it was fun then I wouldn't mind doing it myself but if it was in the way of something else then I'd pay the money just to get to work on what I actually wanted to be doing.

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I just came to say I hate 3D printer fags and I hope you aren't just polluting the world with more 3D printed crap. Have a bad day.

>>2965642
We hate those boomers too.

>>2965642
I 3D printed part of my catless downpipe on one of my cars, I'm polluting even more than a trinketfag.

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>>2965642
i don't even think about you

Got my Qidi Q2 last week, feels so weird printing ASA with difficulty comparable to PETG, that 65 degrees chamber works. Can't be beat at that price point, that's for sure.

>>2965601
Check out sites like makerworld, thingiverse, printables or cults3d for neat models to print. I would start with makerworld since most of the models there are printable with FDM printers. There is a neat snow-flake generator that makes random snow-flakes to make the home more festive that don't take much white filament to print.
There are some really nice dinosaur skulls on there too but they usually require supports so maybe do them later as a more advanced project.
Start with PLA or PETG filament since they don't warp much so you have a better chance to get successful prints. Avoid ABS, filaments containing abrasive materials, ASA and basically all engineering filaments for starters.
I would search for the favorite animal of your niece on these platforms, maybe?
I would look out for models that say "no supports" that can be printed without support material, which can make prints fail or ends up with tedious removal of said supports.
Look here, it's a cute pencil holder: https://makerworld.com/en/models/541722-dinosaur-t-rex-pencil-holder?from=search#profileId-459282

>>2965695
Or this, the incredible bubble straw: https://makerworld.com/en/models/18575-incredible-bubble-straw-for-kids?from=search#profileId-17383

>>2965601
>>2965695
yeggi.com is a metasearch for those places

>>2965584
>It's like in the game "Lemmings"
my nigga. the amiga was peak computing

>>2965601
flexi are actually really easy to print. if anything you should be inundated by things to print. I was thinking you can print barbie accessories, but maybe meat for the dinos, ramps for the skateboards, you can repair or replace things she might have broken - like you can make hotwheels track connectors or, again, ramps. you can print helmets for her little stuffies so they can do extreme sports. sky is the limit.

>>2965608
patience you deviant fucksickle, consoomer direct silicone is coming soon

>>2965436
>>2965617
>>2965634
we used to smoke god dammit and all it cost you was a ciggy and your lungs.

>>2965648
just bend over and pick up the donut you fat fuck

>>2965710
Why would you do that when you can make an overly complicated combination donut lifter and lotion lowerer?

>>2965601
Just tell them you need to take it home to figure it out


Then don’t bring up the 3d printer again

>free 3d printer

Why is my printer making these weird loopy deposits, and how do I make it stop? Bambu A1, this is upside down from how it was printed so it seems to do this on the underside of things. Is it a sign they need supports?

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>>2965797
Forgot the image again due to severe retardation

>>2965798
youre the support guy right? were these models designed to be printed?

>>2965797
>Is it a sign they need supports?
Yes.

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>>2965797
>>2965798
Those a normal opverhangs. Because nothing is supporting the filament there, it's printing in mid-air. You have a few options:
>experimental arc overhangs, idk man the python script flat-out failed last time I tried it, maybe that autistic japanese slicer has it integrated by now
>changing the mesh of the model to be more printable (IIRC Orca can do this automatically but it does mess with your models a bit)
>adding in manual supporting structures in your 3d modelling/cad program of choice
>organic/tree supports like a normal person, automatic supports might generate everywhere so i'd probably paint them on manually

Also is pic related peeling off the bed? Ensure you're cleaning your bed regularly (ipa wipes after every print, and a warm soapy wash every few months or as needed. Besides that, protruding structures like those beams are likely to benefit from mouse-ears, if not a full brim. They can be time consuming to remove, but sharp thin areas often suffer from bed adhesion due to model warpage.

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what is the best way to split a long but thin panel while making it easy to accurately put the thing back together? This thing is 300mm long and 6mm wide. i could print it standing up but i need those rectangles to come out perfectly so i can't do that.

What's the most heat resistant filament that's without carbon/glass fibers? Printed a custom part cooling duct with ASA but people said it eventually warps (it touches the heat sock).

>>2965812
Can you have fasteners protruding on the top and bottom? I'd want to print two pieces with 10-20mm wide pads that are 3mm thick instead of 6mm on the intersecting ends, and screw them together with screws through these overlapping sections. With short screws and threaded inserts in one side it might be able to not protrude from one of the two sides.

What does the part do? It strikes me as the sort of thing you could get ordered waterjet cut from sendcutsend or whoever.

>>2965813
EasyPC is probably the best balance between printability and temperature resistance. Some polycarbonate filaments are much less warp-prone than others, I hear Prusa's is the best but never in stock. If you have a heated chamber it's probably less of an issue which one you get. Though if you don't mind setting the thing in sand or plaster of paris, annealed PLA goes up to 150C. There's also nothing stopping you from printing a mould to inject epoxy into, maybe pre-filled with carbon/glass fibres.

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>>2965812
Like the other guy said, overlapping tabs, but use glue or a solvent bond instead of screws.

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>>2965815
>It strikes me as the sort of thing you could get ordered waterjet cut from sendcutsend or whoever.
yes it could be very easily lasercut but i want to do as much as i can at home.

>>2965817
do you know of any glues that work well with plastic and wood?

i think i will just go to the hardware store and buy some wooden profiles to put into the wide slot. together with some glue and generous and evenly applied pressure it should come out straight, right? Then with a cut like here the top side should also be aligned.

>>2965812
>>2965819
how strong needs to be? bc that would define your needs for a union
if you want to embed you can use many things, a threaded rod is classic and cheap

>>2965825
it doesn't really need to be strong however it absolutely needs to keep its shape.
>if you want to embed you can use many things, a threaded rod is classic and cheap
i just wanted to use wood because i already use it in the rest of the project and because it seems convenient.
Also general question, even if the wooden parts is a bit bent it should still result in a straight part because of lamination right?

>>2965468
>was just wondering if this design is okay,
Double check the center of gravity is far enough back that it wont topple foreword from being bumped or shook.

>>2965819
The dovetail isnt a particularly solid locating feature if you need 0.1mm accuracy left-to-right. Otherwise it’s fine, and a non-printed cross-member is a good idea.

>>2965817
square pegs diamond holes

>>2965812
>i could print it standing up but i need those rectangles to come out perfectly
Do you not have bridging dialed in?

>>2965840
>it absolutely needs to keep its shape.
Under what conditions?

>don't want to have to "dial in" my settings on half a kilogram of test prints every time I buy a new brand of filament
Should I just get the same brand as my printer instead of saving a few bucks on amazon? I mainly print functional things not art pieces, but if they're completely hideous or the print fails then it'd be annoying.
https://us.qidi3d.com/products/petg-basic

>>2965917
>Download Prusaslicer.
>Tell it you have the Prusa printer most similar to what you actually have (e.g direct drive vs bowden, input shaping or not). There may already be a profile for your printer, though it's probably not as polished as Prusa's own.
>Import the filament you want from the material profiles Prusa has prepared. If the specific filament is not available, select a "generic" profile of the same material (though check the temp recommendation on the spool).
>Select the sort of print you're doing (e.g. structural vs draft).
>Copy the print and material settings to your slicer of choice as a starting point for your printer.
I've generally had good results with the recommended settings, though I often tweak them a bit to optimize for a given task. Watch for odd situations like nozzles with different thermal properties (adjust nozzle temp up for steel, down for diamond), or quirky materials (silk PLA can be a bitch). If you have a model with unusual parts that need to come out a particular way, you may need to dig into some relevant settings on a per-print basis. Test prints are useful if you want to push performance, but for general use, generic settings should get you close enough.

>Should I just get the same brand as my printer
This can be convenient since they should have ready-made profiles that are well-matched to your printer. Printer-brand filaments can be pretty good quality, though that naturally varies by brand.

>>2965919
>buy a bambu lab printer
>search on maker world
>press print
i have paid to win and it feels great

>>2965840
>absolutely needs to keep shape
>wood is alright for this application
So, which is it? Wood soaks up moisture and expands / contracts with changing temperature / moisture level, so it's a terrible material if you need critical dimensions to be stable.
If wood is indeed alright for your application you can use whatever material, apparently.
3D-prints can be used for precision prototyping, but require the designer to know material properties and needs to utilize symmetries in the design to keep tolerances tight by utilizing the ability of the materials to flex.
Anon, why don't you tell us what your application is and then we can judge whether 3D-printing is the right method of manufacturing it?

>>2965859
Im redesigning that part to be larger but i still don't see a good spot that dovetail. How would you split this part into two?
>>2965980
i was away for a bit sorry.
The part in question is the backplate of a keyboard used in a musical instrument. Wood is just fine for this but what i worry about in this case is the thin cross section which even when glued doesn't seem that stable. If it were to give way by just a millimeter the part would be unusable. I feel like if there were some support made of a single piece, like a strip of wood, it would be a lot less susceptible to this issue. I don't think that this is really a 3d printing related issue but the nature of joining thin but long plates together this way. Or maybe it would be just fine and im just overthinking things. I never had to print such a thin and long part before.
>then we can judge whether 3D-printing is the right method of manufacturing it
i could have the entire thing be lasercut or i could do the work myself by hand but i don't want to.

>>2965983
also this plate is only supported on its left, right, and bottom sides and is approximately 370mm long. if it were resting against something i wouldn't worry about anything but this long and thin piece needs to carry its own weight and so far i don't see a lot of ways of joining these pieces without risking deformities. but please do tell be what you think the best course of action would be here. I don't see it holding up long term without that wooden support.

>>2965983
>If it were to give way by just a millimeter the part would be unusable.
Give way how? Stretch or squish along its length? Bend one way or another? And what is the actual tolerance here? One millimeter is too much, but how dimensionally-stable does the part actually have to be? You may not have to machine the part from Invar, but that's a decision that comes AFTER figuring out precisely what properties you need.

>>2965985
>also this plate is only supported on its left, right, and bottom sides
How is it supported? What load does the part have to carry other than its weight? What orientation is the part (where is its weight pulling it)?

>I don't see it holding up long term without that wooden support.
Holding up against what? What kind of service conditions does this part need to survive?

>>2965985
I kind of wish to see the keyboard and the thing it's supposed to sit on to get a better idea what you're trying to accomplish.
Also, why is it a problem when the middle of the keyboard sags like 1mm in the middle? Is it some analog instrument? If it's digital it shouldn't matter, I think.
How thick can that support-thingy be to be useful? PETG can be pretty stiff if you make that part thick but it depends on the construction of the part.
There are filaments with carbon fiber pieces in it that are even stiffer but require printers that can handle such materials since its stiffness also makes it brittle.

>>2965991
>I kind of wish to see the keyboard and the thing it's supposed to sit on to get a better idea what you're trying to accomplish
i know its confusing with just text. i just started this project so i don't have a lot to show but i hope i will have good enough model of where that panel comes into play tomorrow.
>why is it a problem when the middle of the keyboard sags like 1mm in the middle?
if that panel were a bit bent it would pinch the keys in place. There is another one of these plates on the other side ~10cm away and they need to be parallel to each other to prevent this pinching and other issues. if a panel is bent then its not parallel anymore.
I don't think that increasing the thickness of the panels or using a particular kind of filament will help a lot but i will increase the thickness still. Like i said i don't know how to properly get rid of the weakpoint which results from splitting the panel and at the same time have it be straight without extra effort like supporting strip of wood. Its not a matter of material strength but more about getting this split part together as if it were printed as one continuous piece.
>How thick can that support-thingy be to be useful?
Im still working things out so i cant answer that yet but even a thin piece, ~7-12mm, should work in keeping things aligned if i punch a series of bolts through it and the part. It would kinda work like a laminate in that case but again really what i am worried about is simply joining the pieces. If it were a thick enough single part i wouldn't worry but my printer is too small.

>>2965996
>getting this split part together as if it were printed as one continuous piece
this includes the lack of weakpoints if that wasn't clear. Good glue and a dovetail might be enough but im not sure.

>>2965917
Or just stick to one brand and do the calibrations once. It's not like fucking Sunlu will go out of business tomorrow and I wouldn't trust manufacturer's printing profiles anyway.

I bet you could use LIDAR to calibrate temperature, speed, and retraction, not just flow rate. Imagine never having to manually examine temp-towers for even the most obscure of filaments, just load it up and tell it to autocalibrate.

>>2965917
>>2966031
I mainline 3Dhojor but I still get a bad roll occasionally. Well once. It prints as well as Bambu brand for half the price but I still get Bambu brand occasionally to color match. I've tried half a dozen other filaments including Atomic from the US (overrated). The thing is there is more variation between matte filament and silk filament than there is from PLA of any brand and when it's a bad roll it's a bad roll regardless of brand.

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printing anything for christmas?

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Am I likely to have issues printing with this screen + tips for cleaning? I cleaned with IPA + microfibres cloth but I can’t seem to completely clean it, as you may be able to see there are little specks which I can’t get off the screen, just move around. Would appreciate tips on how to clean these

>>2966067
Grandma asked for a vase.

Has anyone used PLA for food stuff? I keep hearing that it's not safe. But is it fine if I coat it in resin/epoxy?

>>2966155
>Has anyone used PLA for food stuff?
https://youtu.be/OzfXVH59LjM

>I keep hearing that it's not safe.
Mostly because, like other FDM materials, a PLA FDM print contains lots of voids that can't be properly cleaned, so a food-related item cannot be reliably sanitized.

>But is it fine if I coat it in resin/epoxy?
Depends on the resin/epoxy. Why not use a resin printer with a food-safe resin?

>>2966067
My dad gave me his 3D printer and I'm chuffed. Learning the ins and outs of slicer software and dialing in settings. I'm aiming at converting my junk drawer into a gridfinity testing ground, organizing it in the meantime. Having a fantastic time.

>>2966155
>yeggi.com
I've made an egg separator and a cherry pitter in PETG, but my stuff has to be dishwasherable because i'm not into handwashing

>>2966159
>Why not use a resin printer with a food-safe resin?
Because not everyone has money or good ventilation space, jack ass.

>I printed this coffee maker. Btw I didn't drink from it because it's not safe XD
What was the point of the video then?

>>2966179
>Because not everyone has money or good ventilation space
If you're into FDM printing, you should already have both. Resin printers can be had for under $200, and FDM produces airborne hazards that should be dealt with similarly.

>What was the point of the video then?
To demonstrate how a formulation of PLA can be annealed to significant heat resistance while maintaining sufficient dimensional accuracy for threaded pressure-tight connections.

>>2966182
>If you're into FDM printing, you should already have both
:\
>Resin printers can be had for under $200
:\
>and FDM produces airborne hazards that should be dealt with similarly
:\

>>2966155
i think one of the issues is that chinese brass 3d nozzles can contain lead

>>2966187
Do you disagree with any of that?

>>2966124
>>>/tg/3dpg
thar be the land of the resin lads,
be ye posting it thar for the info
even tho they dost suck it mostwise

>>2966155
holes and lead. I grew up sucking lead through tailpipes so I'm not afraid of microdoses through a brass nozzle. I print food adjacent stuff, not that you can't get food poisoning from a cookie cutter or an orange peeler but it's just too convenient. And I just throw them out. I don't like giving away cookie cutters etc (but I have) because I can just throw them out if I'm worried and make another.

Other food stuff is chopstick helpers, bottle openers, drawer organizers, stuff that doesn't come in contact with food or prep really and that I have zero worry about. A lid for the rice, can coozie, drink markers, I guess a spoon rest is one category up.

If I was going to make a food use item (spoon or whatever) it would be disposable.

If you really want to be safe I guess consider molding and silicone pours, but people are out there eating five day old chinese and dying still in 2025 so I feel like the risk is slight since I at least can conceive of the danger.

Oh and I've given out whistles at halloween, which is pretty much just as horrible as feeding the children botulism and lead from a 3d printed asshole scraper so I might need jesus later.

>>2966182
are the airborne hazards in the room with us now?

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looks like it's going to be one of those days

>>2966192
*sigh*
>If you're into FDM printing, you should already have both
That's like saying if you own a porsche you should own a ferrari. Complete nonsense. No correlation. They both have different uses.

>Resin printers can be had for under $200
More like $300 on the low-end. Not including a couple extra hundred for the resin, alcohol, enclosure, and curing station. I guess ~$500 isn't THAT expensive, but I'm not that bent on making food-grade stuff. It was just a casual one-off idea. If I can't make it with PLA, I won't bother. I'd rather make a cup out of clay.

>and FDM produces airborne hazards that should be dealt with similarly
With PLA there are no noticeable fumes. A simple box and small HEPA filter is considered enough to prevent you from breathing any micro plastic. Most people don't even have enclosures with just PLA. A resin printer under the same conditions will fill your room with noticeable toxic fumes and give you headaches. It needs exhaust ducts and fans and a tightly sealed enclosure. Resin is way more toxic.

>>2966205
I'd go one further and say in current day if you have a dialed in FDM there is even less of a use case for a resin printer as you can do up to but not including table ready wh40k shit already.

>>2966201
>Oh and I've given out whistles at halloween, which is pretty much just as horrible as feeding the children botulism and lead from a 3d printed asshole scraper so I might need jesus later
You definitely need some moral education but less about the potential contamination (children pretty much each dirt) and more because you should fucking know better than to give noise makers to other people's children you fucking monster.

>>2966155
there are many foodsafe coatings yes, that is a good option.

>>2966202
If you have an active 3D printer, probably.
https://youtu.be/nofn_MHrxrs

>>2966205
>That's like saying if you own a porsche you should own a ferrari.
A typical Ferrari costs about 4x as much as a typical Porsche. Both entry-level resin printers and entry-level FDM printers cost $100-$200. If someone can budget for one, the other is probably doable as well.

>No correlation. They both have different uses.
But a similar affordability, which is what determines if someone can afford them.

>More like $300 on the low-end.
>https://us.elegoo.com/products/elegoo-mars-4-msla-resin-3d-printer-with-9k-mono-lcd
>7" 9k mono resin printer for $149
When was the last time you actually priced out resin printing, or accessories? You can spend a lot on accessories with lots of bells and whistles, but that's not needed to get into resin printing. And are you including filament and enclosure in your FDM price estimate?

>With PLA there are no noticeable fumes.
>he says about PLA with its obvious caramel-like fumes
And while there is apparently minimal actual danger from PLA, other common materials produce a lot more stuff.

>A simple box and small HEPA filter is considered enough to prevent you from breathing any micro plastic.
IF there is a ventilation system and enclosure that can capture all the airborne stuff generated by the printer (via maintaining negative pressure in the printer and routing all that air through the filter). Are you including the cost of that in your FDM price estimate?

>Resin is way more toxic.
It can be more likely to produce headaches, but that's not the same thing as toxicity. Lots of FDM stuff exceeds occupational exposure limits.

wait, is pla toxic? I run my a1 in the living room

>>2966258
>>2966258
>It can be more likely to produce headaches, but that's not the same thing as toxicity.
Resin isn't toxic but everyone develops resin allergies if they are stupid and expose themselves.
>Lots of FDM stuff exceeds occupational exposure limits.
[citation needed]

>>2966264
yeah, bad news, you died.

>>2966265
>[citation needed]
>>2966258
>https://youtu.be/nofn_MHrxrs [Embed]

>>2966264
Probably not a good idea to huff the hotend's fan output, but in a decent-sized room with decent air flow, it's probably not a significant health concern. See the video above.

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never had a 3d printer, is this good to get started?
anything else I should know? I'm interested in 3d printing as a hobby but I'm still not sure if I'll actually use it on the long term so I'd like to know from people who've been into this for a while

>>2966296
Yes just be aware you can only print one color at a time, the blocks are trying to trick you. Consider a Bambu A1 mini instead, it has actual multicolor you can add later. Enclosed isn't a necessity for babby's first printer. If you think you want a more engineering printer consider the P1S.

Then again if you think you're going to be back in 6 months going "I need it all" consider spending less, the Carbon is kind of overkill even at that price. So like the Neptune 4 or something.

My first printer was a mini-delta which I used for 3 years before going full bambu x1c. To be fair I never did mid market stuff.

>>2966320
how big of a deal is having multi color?

>>2966277
that's not a citation it's a youtube video with a millennial freaking out over the peak detection barely over the annual recommendations (which likely have the WIDEST of safety margins). This basically amounts to "perfectly harmless" unless you cannot differentiate between risks (and it seems like you cannot). Stop being a chicken little or wear your n95 like a good goy and shut the fuck up.

>>2966322
it's very very nice but it's not necessary to figure out if 3D printing is for you.

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How do I effectively clean away the pubes on these fuckin FDM models

>>2966352
kitchen blowtorch

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Can anyone familiar with Autodesk Fusion give me some workflow tips? I'm making something like this, it's just a little jig to line something up. I made the initial shape by sketching the corner with splines, and then mirroring it twice to get the oval shape, and threw an offset around it. Then I added some construction lines to either side, used Move/Copy to add another copy of it to the left/right of the original, and added some lines between them to connect them. Then I used some construction lines and Move/Copy again to make a second set of 3 below the first, and then doubled it again with another set of 6 below that.

The problem is, it works fine the way it is if I never need to edit it, but I'll probably need to edit it in the future, and something about how I did it doesn't let anything move if I try to change the size of the construction lines between things. Also it made editing ANYTHING on the sketch laggy as fuck, adding one line anywhere takes it a few seconds.

>>2966323
>that's not a citation it's a youtube video
It's a reference to a source of a claim, which is what a citation is.

>the peak detection barely over the annual recommendations
That is, measured values exceeding occupational exposure limits, as claimed.

>This basically amounts to "perfectly harmless"
https://youtu.be/aLU0SzzSmOE?t=1107

>Stop being a chicken little or wear your n95 like a good goy and shut the fuck up.
Goodness, that struck a nerve. Why the emotional investment here?

>>2966322
The nice thing about multi-filament printers is the ability to print with two different materials, so you can have better supports that are easier to remove (or that you can even dissolve in water).

>>2966352
I usually use a hot air gun to quickly melt these pubes into little balls that one can flick off with fingers to clean up prints with PETG. Make sure to only do moving passes with the gun to only melt things on the surface to avoid the models to melt. I know this should be obvious, it being made out of thermo-plastics and all, but I often learn that people are fucking retards and would blame me for being retarded and melting their models by applying too much heat to their models.
I'm not over-explaining it to be condescending, just making sure to give enough tips if a retard reads this.
My gun only does 350 degrees C and the distance of 2cm is usually a good starting point, depending on the type of pubes.

>>2966322
If you're doing only functional prints, I would dip my toes into 3D-printing by getting a BambuLab A1 mini (like 200 bucks and very reliable with PETG/PLA) without AMS and just get a 5kg spool of PETG in a neutral color like gray. Multicolor with AMS wastes tons of time/filament.
I do only functional prints at home and I just got a H2S with a 5kg spool of PETG and been prototyping my ass off without wasting time on fiddling with spools, which I find really annoying after a while.
If you want to do colored figures on the cheap, the Snapmaker printer might be a good fit (can only do 4 colors max.)
Multi-nozzle printers are nice and all but I wouldn't get one as a first printer since they are much more complicated to setup and learning how to design models that don't require support is a fun challenge that also saves you time on manual support removal, making the parts look better without spending money on specialized printers / gear.
One usually needs to plan a design a bit if one aims to print completely support free but the result is much more satisfying than designing like a retard and using a printer that can do supports everywhere. I might be biased as I see the use of supports as a cheap crutch that one shouldn't rely on.
I get access to a H2D next year and I might change my stance on supports a bit (at least for work prints) but I doubt it. The only real advantage of a double-nozzle is being able to print stacked TPU-prints using PLA as a separation material, which is pretty nifty. Not recommended for beginners tho. Start small with a A1 mini, that will keep you occupied for a while and is the perfect printer for beginners that need a small prototyping printer while learning MCAD at home.

>>2966264
>is pla toxic?
Everything that has fumes or smoke is somewhat toxic, even oxygen can be toxic, but PLA is right at the low end of the spectrum.

>>2966322
>how big of a deal is having multi color?
I have an AnyCubic Kobra Max and I would kill to be able to print soluble supports.

>>2966379
>Autodesk Fusion
I know shit about fuck with Fusion but I can explain how it would work in FreeCAD.
The operation history is maintained and you can select an earlier part of the process, say the corner with splines, and modify the curve radius and the change would propagate through the mirroring etc that created the rest of the piece.

Maybe there's an analogy to that in Fusion?
I'm a noob at FreeCAD and with just the first hour or two of >>2963487's youtube link, I could model your jig in FreeCAD in an hour and making changes to the workflow in the future would be trivial.

>>2966445
Fusion works the same, mostly. The sketch is one entry in the history, but within the sketch the way it constrains things relative to other things should let you edit them later on and have other stuff follow, which is the problem I'm having. I SHOULD be able to edit the lines between ovals, so one can be the "master" and the rest can have their measurements set as equal to that one, but something about my process fucked it up. Might just go back to just the spline and recreate from there, it might just be something that I accidentally constrained wrong.

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>>2966379
create sketch
choose plane
create with outside rectangle using center rectangle tool
use sketch fillet tool to round corners
use inset tool to create inside wall
use pattern grid to create 3x4 layout
connected with straight lines
finish sketch
extrude (Q) choose sketch, enter height mm, taper angle some degrees (negative 5º?)
[Okay]
rename body
select body
file > export > stl > my computer (or something)

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>>2966441
oh boy I'm glad I saved this from chicken little's video

>>2966458
My bad, I worded it poorly. I can make the thing, that screenshot is mine, but something about how I did it means changing things like the spacing between ovals doesn't work. I'm not sure if it's related to the workflow on how I did it, if I let the cursor hover over something and it automatically constrained it wrong, or if this is just Fusion being weird about splines again.

>>2966460
the stuff you do inside a sketch is not in the history. you can double click a sketch in the timeline to change it but the constraints get super fucktarded however within the sketch you CAN alter the pattern by double clicking that restraint, alter the thickenss by changing the callout and alter the extrusion, depth and slope, outside the sketch by double clicking the extrusion in history. You can slide sketch elements around outside of the sketch too but again that leads to some borg killing geometry due to constraints.

>>2966459
That's a pretty handy description of filament safety requirements.

>>2966465
>requirements
you spelled guidelines wrong

>>2966468
>you spelled guidelines wrong
It's a regional dialect, from upstate ICareAboutMyHealthStan. You might not have visited there.

>>2966459
Are you a boomer? Did you spend your youth inhaling leaded gasoline fumes? Acting tough because "it hasn't killed me yet" is fucking retarded.

>>2966493
What do you think about new car smell? Thats just a whole bunch of synthetic adhesives outgassing and everyone seems to not mind it somehow, you can even buy air fresheners that smell of it. It smells fucking disgusting,

>>2966496
>everyone seems to not mind it somehow
>everyone

>>2966497
>>everyone seems to not mind it somehow
It's literally a meme for boomers.
https://youtu.be/s47t_o1R-ss?t=57

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I'm totally new on 3d printing
how much experience and filament do I need to print and build something like this?
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:7210318

>>2966512
>how much experience and filament do I need to print and build something like this?
The filament will be specified in the build listing as grams. Not that much though.
Experience...there's no consumer level printer that prints at that quality without significant post-processing which is a manual, skill-based process that will take quite some time and failures to learn.

Is there any list of useful beginner friendly stuff to print?

>>2966534
sort by most popular on makerworld

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It's almost been 3 years bros
IDK what to print anymore

>>2966571
print a new hobby.
i had GREAT fun making my grbl plotter for dnd maps from ikea paper rolls.
being able to bosh out a map over a 1 hour break was great, and the weeks of tinkering before was a treat as well.

>>2966576
I have, straight up printed a 1:10 RC car with mix results but it works.
Thought about doing planes, I'm sure I could build a laser cutter to do balsa but money is tight atm

redpill me on bambu p2s over p1s, is it worth it?
also is it mandatory to get the AMS right away or can I get it later? assuming I won't get another dedicated filament dryer

>>2966553
ai is great if you don't care about the result

>>2966620
as someone who got the AMS2 pro later buy it with the printer. i paid a premium for my hesitation. it comes with a filament dryer built in as well

>>2966576
>grbl plotter for dnd maps from ikea paper rolls
Can you elaborate?
Are you making maps from paper rolls?

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>>2966571
a tensegrity table

>>2966625
printing them using a fineliner taped to a cnc system.
just google plotter.
or ikea paper rolls
or ANY word from my post.

its literally just a huge roll of paper, about the same width as a2, my plotter was a thin 100mm by 1000m, paper rolled off the original roll, and onto another roller, gantry would print that 100mm gap, and the roller would pull another 100mm into the printing portion.
i could have done it better if i used the rollers for all y axis movement, but i found they kept slipping.
this was back in 2019, pre covid though, i think i salvaged most of it for ercfs parts a while back now.

>>2966641
>printing them using a fineliner taped to a cnc system.
Did you have an old aliexpress cnc you used or something?
Got any pics?

Thanks anon, it's relevant to my interests but I hadn't considered making something like this for game maps.
I suppose the usecase is that you can mark much larger than A4 maps this way rather than printing a bunch of pages and aligning them on a board or something.

I ran a game where I'd take flash drives to a printshop and get them to print maps onto A3 cardstock which I'd stick to fridge magnet backing and cut out as room tiles, then I could lay down a whiteboard on a table and put the map tiles on that.

I also printed a 25mm grid onto overhead transparency sheets and stuck them down with magnets so that I could have a game grid over the map tiles if they didn't already have one.

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>>2966571
the autistic 4 horsemen. embrace one of them

>>2966643
literally just google grbl plotter anon.

i used it to turn dungeon painter studio maps into black and white sketch style maps.
then i would sketch important shit on it in colour.
my players needed visuals, but anything TOO complex would get them stuck in the weeds outside combat, and during combat they NEEDED a visual representation of where they and the enemy were.
the most autistic of them died of covid though, and my new group are much less reliant on maps, so i never bothered to haul it back out of storage post 2022, and i think it ended up getting scrapped for motors and extrusions.

never bothered taking pictures of it, since i had the thing, and most people i was showing it to could see it in action IRL.

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bros.... Im thinking its time i retire this old thing. I am working a steady job again and have some expendable income and seeing the bambu black friday deals was looking really appealing. I think il buy some used bambu printer of FB marketplace, something that wont break the bank.
my baby yoda production will increase tenfold

>>2966721
have you been printing africanized baby yoda

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What cheap filament can I buy to get started with ease? micro center has some cheap options but I have no idea what to expect

>>2966738
3dhojor just don't buy double packs

inland is just the store brand produced by other filament companies I'm not going to spend the 2 seconds googling for you

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What would cause a print fail like this? One of the parts I was printing flew off the build plate

>>2966758
Something curling up (especially a 45 degree unsupported overhang, or pointy shape on the bed without a brim or mouse-ears) to the point the nozzle collides with it. Turn on Z-hopping and mouse-ears and pray.

>>2966758
Do a first layer test. Hold it up to the light, look for any gaps in the sheet.
The gaps are where your plate is dirty.
Clean your plate with dishsoap and warm water. (Ideally, try to do this once a week.)
Do another first layer test, check to ensure the gaps are gone.

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just got an elegoo centauri carbon
am I supposed to take off this sticker? it's not present in the video tutorial

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Did my first benchy and I'm satisfied with the result, but why does this part have a pronounced horizontal line?

>>2966786
There is a large, sharp change in the duration and solidity of those layers, so it shrinks inconsistently relative to where the plastic is getting extruded.

>>2966787
how can I prevent that?

>>2966788
Autism honed by sharpening a thousand Benchies against each other. Realistically, you don't, though well-tuned profiles can minimize it.

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>>2966778
>he doesn't know if you should remove the tracer

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>>2966786
is that a bambu lab p1s?

>>2966786
https://help.prusa3d.com/article/the-benchy-hull-line_124745

>>2966778
>am I supposed to take off this sticker?
Is it a handle so you can remove a plastic cover from the bed?

>>2966791
You're not helpful, this is a thread where you should help noobs.

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>>2966796
it's just a piece of tape, remove it or don't it won't affect anything, maybe there's a warning on the smooth side

>>2966792
elegoo centauri carbon

>>2966798
to prevent the overhang sag
>increase part cooling fan to 100%
>loser nozzle temperature
>decrease speed
and make sure your filament is dry. you can find guides on how to troubleshoot/finetune on youtube. glhf printing

>>2966799
thanks, how do I tell what temperature and speed should I use?
I just did everything at default and the print was done in 14 minutes

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>>2966800
the spool has the temp range on it and the printer has its own default settings for each filament type so your pla spool's range may be 190-220c while your printer's default could be set to 220c. you can step it down 5-10c each attempt to dial it in. benchys only use ~11g of filament so don't be afraid to print a bunch to get it right.
pic is the specs for elegoo pla which i'm assuming is what your printer came with

>>2964618
this isn't a shill question. what makes bambu 3d printers (or other makes/models of 3d printers) so conducive to just 'click and print'? i have an ender 3 v2 and it's kind of a pain in the ass to use. it does work, it just takes tweaking and maybe a failed print or two to get things working. so what do these other printers do differently in terms of hardware or software that make them so much more click and print?

>>2966814
>preassembled
>auto level and calibration
>preloaded with profiles for different filaments
>proprietary software and tight integration with makerworld
the downside is that unlike other platforms everything is locked down. they're like the apple of 3d printing without the insane markups thanks to the chinese government subsidizing everything (enjoy it while it lasts.)

>>2966815
>chinese government subsidizing everything (enjoy it while it lasts.)
this is not what is happening, they are just doing scale economy and a design made for manufacturing, not tinkering it

>>2966814
The engineers are familiar with manufacturing techniques that scale well (sheet-metal construction, injection molding) instead of using techniques that is feasible for home tinkerers that only build one-offs. The amount of time it took Prusa to ditch the idiotic frame construction consisting of threaded rods and to use aluminum extrusion parts for its frame was embarrassing. They even had written firmware to warn about frames that aren't square instead of cutting the extrusions like any sane person would do. Not sure if that was inherited from the Mendel design but it was a terrible solution that doesn't scale at all. The BambuLab team comes from designing DJI drones so are very familiar to design for scale. Their printers are perfect for non-edge-lords who don't want to print ghost guns n shit.
I'm into functional printing (for home use) and the H2S with a large spool of filament (PETG) without an AMS is fun to use and I don't have to waste time with tinkering with the printers and can focus on learning MCAD and designing models that don't require support to print.
I'm using the AMS at work on a X1C with tiny 1kg spools and dealing with tiny filament spools is the only one thing that's annoying and I'm glad I don't have to do that at home with my 5kg AMS-free setup.

>>2966824
>BambuLab
Has that been jailbroken yet?
Do Bambus even need jail-breaking or is it just that people who use them wouldn't care about using other maker sites or stifling telemetry?

>>2966820
>In 2020, the Chinese government designated the 3D printing industry as a "strategic industry". This national initiative provides general support to companies in the sector through measures such as grants, tax incentives, easier access to credit, and R&D support, which makes manufacturing in China cheaper compared to other countries
0 percent financing, 200% depreciation and the chinese government has management shares in their largest investors. all while pillaging open source software with no respect for license agreements. they've even gone as far as to try to patent tech that was freely available a decade before

>>2966834
i read the same bullshit a million times, without any proper source on how it actually works. chinese state having a stake in the companies doesnt fucking meant the end units are subsidized at all, just the R&D, like in every country, prusa got tons of subsides
they have fucking huge manufacturing hubs and currently they know manufacturing better than anyone else in the world by a huge margin
and everyone is patenting public shit, the patent system should have been abolished instead it was reinforced and augmented the patents duration to 20 years by the neolibs in the 90s

>>2966802
To elaborate on this, the Benchy is a benchmark print intended to show where a printer's settings can be improved. This sort of thing is specifically what it was designed for. Once you have things dialed in for the Benchy, other prints should be set up pretty well too.

>>2966828
I don't see why Bambu users can't use other model sources since all I use (thingiverse, makerworld, printables and cults3d) allow the download of stl/3mf files and setting up print configs (if even necessary) is easy for anyone vaguely familiar with slicers. I guess the extreme novice Bambu-users only use the phone app to print their models and therefore need someone else to do the settings for them (printer type, slicer settings, orientation of the model) but I think most users use the PC software for starting prints so that's a non-issue. Not sure why stifling telemetry is that interesting as long as one doesn't print stuff they wouldn't print via an external printing service like ghost guns or similar things that might get one flagged in some way.
One can use the Bambu printers in LAN only mode but would lose some very convenient features like simple connection to the phone app for getting notifications if something paused the print or remotely selecting parts to not get printed (in a multi-part print where one part lost bed adhesion) to continue printing the other parts without making more spaghetti on the part that flew away.

I live in arizona so it's very dry, should I still worry about storing my pla in airtight containers?
how do I store them?

>>2966859
Do you have any idea what the humidity is in numbers?
Inside?

>>2966860
nta it's like 10% except during monsoon season, at least in Tucson

>>2966859
I live in colorado, run an industrial humidifier to keep shit at 30% so my wife doesn't mald and I store everything on an open shelf. the last bad filament I had was the last third of a roll and it was just with all the other filament which was fine. I have a sovol dual dryer but I never use it (I printed out the bad filament and only later found it was paper thin and the print crumbled). I definitely think too many people go to great lengths to solve a problem that doesn't exist out of swamp ass places.

>>2966859
No, PLA only has humidity problems if you live in a swamp. It's only PETG and TPU you'll have to worry about.

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Man I'm so fucking tired of the ender 3, the bed has more ups and downs than the emerald hills windows xp desktop background. I used to be able to tard wrangle it into good prints back in the day but now it seems every print requires me fucking with the settings and machine to get it right.

What's causing my infill to do this? Granted this PETG is like 6 years old at this point. Is it the retraction? Flow? Worn out nozzle? Or is one of my axis loose and the material is printing in the air? There was alot of built up pressure I think when I stopped the print.

>>2966890
did you dry your petg? passing it through a dust filter? it looks like you have charred chunks embedded i it, which may be dust getting burnt in the hotend and clogging it,
have you dialled in the extrusion multiplier for that filament?
check your infill multiplier?

my bet would be on partially clogged nozzle caused by dust or moisture though.

>>2966890
Don’t even bother with old PETG. Even if you dry it, it will remain unprintable. Buy some new filament.

>>2966891

I definitely have alot of dust, you guys use wipers or something?

>ender 3 in 2025
>6 years old dusty and wet PETG
Now this is a real /3dpg/ horror story

What do I do with my pla residue?

>>2966900
put it in a mold and melt it

>>2966895
It still prints and advances in printer tech still hasn't addressed what I consider the main issue with printing which is using a thin sheet of metal with the tendency to warp as the print surface so I haven't really had a reason to get anything newer. The only thing I would consider an improvement is if a printer was built on a surface plate or a precisely machined cast base sort of like a drill press.

I dropped retraction down to 25mm/s, reduced flow to 104%, dropped fan speed and changed infill to gyroid and it's printing mostly ok now.

>>2966894
i use a "filiment oiler" i printed in 2016, its basically just a clamp that holds a sponge that wipes off of filiment before going into a bowden tube, i stopped bothering with actual oil in it year back, but it keeps the cat dust off, just need to swap the sponge every spool or 2.
a few show up on printables too, go for one you close over the filiment instead of thread through, so you can snap it on if you forgot it mid print.

>>2966913
>thin sheet of metal
anon, most corexy printers use a big milled aluminium plate, with a thin sheet magnetized to the top.
the thin sheet is only an issue on bedslingers where weight limits you to the lighter bed.

>>2966913
Dude, a BambuLab A1 mini without AMS is like 200 USD and shits out small PETG prints like this in perfect condition, even without a housing to retain the heat to keep PETG prints from warping. Do yourself a favor and spend that money and move on with your life (and don't waste you limited time on fixing shit printers). Even a used A1 mini is VASTLY superior than your current setup in terms of ease of use and print quality. How the hell does an ender have adhesion problems with such a small print that you were forced to use such an aggressive brim?

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>>2966916
Give me an example, because just from googling everything I see still shows a thin build plate that moves up and down while the print head stays at the top of the printer.

>>2966917
>a1 mini
>thin build plate cantilevered printer

Yeah no, I can already see more issues than the ender in that design. I know what my printer is capable of if I just did some maintenance and got new filament, pic related. But I can't be arsed to, I just print functional tools once in a while.

>>2966928
The thin build-plate isn't even the worst part of it. The problem is that most printers used the design made by Prusa with a spring steel sheet that's too thin and too weak magnets to hold it flat. When one prints a bad full of prints with filaments that warp... shit happens, caused by the edges lifting up causing all kinds of issues. Nothing to be concerned of when printing PLA or PETG but I've seen people printing a full bed of PC and getting brutal problems with warpage.
That print in your pic looks really good so I guess that printer was dialed in so just get yourself some fresh filament instead of that filament that prints like processed cheese.

>>2966862
>nta it's like 10% except during monsoon season, at least in Tucson
At 10% ambient humidity, you should be good for storing most filaments in open air. Note, however, that this will not generally dry filament that is already wet from somewhere. It's good practice to dry new filament before using it.

>a problem that doesn't exist out of swamp ass places.
It's a problem most places that are not Arizona.

>>2966884
>PLA only has humidity problems if you live in a swamp.
PLA can pick up enough humidity to degrade print quality and strength on the order of a day at 50% relative humidity at 70F. It's not as bad as PETG or most other materials, and you can ignore it generally without risking print failures, but it does happen.

>It's only PETG and TPU you'll have to worry about.
It's every single FDM material except polypropylene. Some (e.g. nylon) will print foam if you store them in open air.

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>>2966894
This is a problem long solved in wirefeed welding.

>>2966928
>Give me an example
Every single Voron. Every single Ratrig. Every VZBot and HeVort. Prusa Core1 L.
https://youtu.be/rAYkayMsRMs

>>2966942
Not him, but most corexy printers are off-the-shelf voron-clones with thin moving beds like the X1C. Even the flying gantry printers like the SV08 don't use aluminium for the base IIRC. The only ones that do are the premium or DIY machines, where shipping weight isn't as big of an issue. The original statement was:
>most corexy printers use a big milled aluminium plate
Which might have been true 5 years ago, but it isn't now that everyone buys a voron clone.

>>2966943
You might have picked up on it by reading the quote, but I was replying to a request for an example of a core XY printer that DID use a thick aluminum bed. I myself have made no statements about what most Core XY printers use.

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Printer works fine. Who cares if the inside looks like sponge cake.

>>2966943
im the anon that originally said that, and i stand by it.
unless you go for a mystery meat printer, the majority of corexy printers use a milled aluminium bed.
voron, ratrigs, prusas, troodons, bambus.
yes you CAN get them with the shitty 1mm thin aluminium sheet, or the heated PCB sheet, but those are in the 'budget' machines, like a monoprice machine from 2014.
but claiming the majority of corexy's use the thin sheets is like me saying all bed slingers lack heated beds, the cheap ones maybe, but far from all of them.

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>>2966942
>>2966947

That IS what I meant when I said they use a thin sheet of metal, a 1/4" thick aluminum plate is NOT dimensionally stable, especially when heated.

That graphite plate is interesting, but what I want to see is a print head that moves while printing on a solid base like a surface plate, or something as thick as a milling machine table. It doesn't have to be solid, you could make it hollow on the underside with stiffening ribs and if ground flat it would resist changing shape.

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>>2966947
Bambu X1Cs and their clones are ubiquitous in the market, there's far more of them than the DIY printers and the Prusas. I'm fairly sure none of the Bambus or their clones use milled beds, pic related is the underside of an X1C plate, hard to say but I'd err on the side of not being less than 5mm of metal.

>>2966948
>pic says plate
"Sheet" is normally dimensioned in gauge numbers. "Plate" is normally dimensioned in inches. Outside specific contexts where use cases fall well outside the norm, the customary line is at 7ga-3/16". Besides this, there are customary differences in handling like "sheet" typically being punched and bent to a final product, while "plate" is typically machined and welded. the items in question here are 6-10mm thick cast and milled aluminum items universally marketed for this purpose as "plate". And per >>2966913
>using a thin sheet of metal with the tendency to warp as the print surface
None of these plates are used as the print surface. The print surface in all these cases is a thin sheet of spring steel coated with some sort of plastic, and held to the aluminum plate with magnets.

>a 1/4" thick aluminum plate is NOT dimensionally stable
There are degrees of dimensional stability. It is more dimensionally stable than a PCB heater.

>what I want to see is a print head that moves while printing on a solid base like a surface plate, or something as thick as a milling machine table.
Why? What benefit would you expect, and why would that be worth the costs associated with that?

>>2966947
>bambus
These do not use a milled aluminum bed.

>prusas
Only the Prusa Core 1 L does at present. The other Prusa Core XY machines (Core 1, XL, AFS) use a PCB heater like the bedslingers.

>>2966960
>Why? What benefit would you expect, and why would that be worth the costs associated with that?

Flat, accurate parts. No need to ever level the bed or needing ABL sensors/routines. Half the issues with 3d printing are various ways to deal with the shit beds and the consequences of those compensations.

The cost would mainly be in shipping weight, these surface plates are like $50 retail. If some chinese company made hollow cast iron bases and gave them a light surface machine it would be even cheaper; entire cast iron drill presses sell for $90.

>>2966967
you know you can just DO that yourself right? buy a surface plate, mount it to a fixed bed corexy and just set the offset.
you wont get a heated bed, and you'll need to scrape of parts manually.
theres nothing stopping you from doing it yourself

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Tried experimenting with a 5cm tall bull bust I found online and modified a little
some small details are wrong because the model is messy and the print is too small, but I really like how the muscles turned out

>>2966971

I will, once I the ender fails to print what I need. I have other machines that demand my attention now. I already don't use the bed heating because it elephants foots everything and I already scrape off parts manually.

>>2966973
Damn bro, where the fuck did you find all this beef?
But yeah. Pretty decent detail for a FDM print, you'll get more detail (And it'll take longer) if you use a smaller nozzle.
But the realm of printing organic shapes is more occupied by resin printers, really.

>>2966946
do you mean the infill?

>>2965528
>>2964741
>>2964728
what about the snapmaker u1? seems like a sweetspot between price and functionality.

I went from mk3s to p1p and on the one hand I miss having control over my machine, but on the other hand:
prusa just can't seem to catch up and keep releasing half-finished products just because bambu keep on pumping out high quality machines that people are buying.
If I went back to prusa, I'd need the Core One L, but from what I've seen the print quality is shockingly poor and misses features that they announced - like the Open RFID. that will be an extra cost. the indx upgrade will have a steep pricetag as well.

so the snapmaker seems like a good option - runs on klipper, has a tool changer, is affordable

redpill me on qidi? I'm a printlet, never heard of them before but now that I'm researching what printer to buy they seem like good value

>3d printing sloptuber
>barely knows how to operate printer or slicer despite larping as an authority on them for years
>absolute dogshit quality prints
>pla and petg is all you ever need faggotry
why so many such cases?

>>2966758
Check Z offset, also check plate, maybe it's has some gunk on it, so cleaning required, also it can happen due to warping, look if it's not curling while you print, keep higher bed temp, if PLA set it to 50 - 60 C, for PETG 70 - 80, for ABS you can't get away with less than 100, 90 sometimes OK, if you have enclosure, but generally 100 - 110 for ABS/ASA. If you printing in some non heated workshop, or somewhere where cold air gusts happen, this shit can ruin your print, so heated bed is in my opinion mandatory and enclosure recommended whatever material you print. But fiirst check how layers go.

>>2966890
Old PETG, have same problem with it. So I just printing everything with it, everything not pretty but functional, just to be done with that and put in something fresh.

>>2967015
>why so many such cases?

Because you give them views.

>>2966967
>Flat, accurate parts.
What tolerances do you want? That's the question to answer if you're serious about it.

>No need to ever level the bed
You'll need to level the bed, same as those machine tools need when they're set up. And machine tools built for real accuracy are calibrated at multiple temperatures to identify how they move (which they do). If your machine's motion system isn't as stable as a milling machine's, it may need re-leveling periodically.

>or needing ABL sensors/routines
You'll still need to find the Z offset. If you don't use closed-loop controls, you'll need to re-find it regularly. If you ever change build surfaces, you'll need a new Z offset for it.

>Half the issues with 3d printing are various ways to deal with the shit beds and the consequences of those compensations.
Maybe with you and your Ender 3, but modern printers really don't have much trouble here. If the bed is clean, and the build surface (easily changed) is compatible with the desired material, there are typically no hardware issues to be had with the bed. You hit print, then pop the print off the flex plate when it's done. You're several generations behind in quality of life improvements.

>The cost would mainly be in shipping weight
And in hacking one into your printer's kinematic system. And in leveling it. And in mounting a build surface to it. And in flattening THAT. And attaching a heater with precise control and even heating. And, since your printer's frame was probably not made to deal with a massive block attached to it, checking it for squareness whenever it's moved or handled.

>If some chinese company made hollow cast iron bases and gave them a light surface machine
You imagine that this would be flatter than aluminum tool plate?

>>2966976
>it elephants foots everything
Modern slicers have a setting which compensates for this. You're really making things a lot harder for yourself than they need to be.

>>2966973
It's often desirable to print busts tilted back to reduce the effects of overhangs and supports on the mist visually-important parts. The practical tilt is constrained by the appearance of stair-stepping on prominent parts of the bust.

>>2967018
>enclosure recommended whatever material you print.
Except PLA and TPU. Those materials do not like high ambient temperatures that even a passively heated enclosure can achieve. Leave the door or vents open as applicable.

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Anyone seen any sarokichi stl files around? $900 is a bit steep for a file you are technically not allowed to reproduce or share. For that price I would just remake the model from scratch.

>>2967037
>sarokichi
https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/art/sarokichi-articulated-mask
This one is reasonably priced for a model.

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this is probably a scam correct? the dude says he can meet up on the 27th and hold it for me if i pay him a down payment so this is 100% a scam.

But anyway, what bambu should i pick up? theres alot of X1Cs around me as people upgraded to the h2 it seems, what would be a good price for a used X1C? keep in mind this is canadian pesos

>>2967050
>so this is 100% a scam.
Depends. Did the sale listing mention a down payment, or was that just in response to your request to hold it for you? Generic used-item deals do not involve down payments, and all exchanges are handled at the point of sale. UNLESS you want the seller to reserve the item when others come along wanting to buy it. You need to give the seller some incentive to make such an agreement with you. And this reservation fee should not be a huge amount. It should be in line with the expected demand for the item and how much you'd save going with that seller vs others with similar items. Does the cost savings of that offering and the expected chance of someone sniping it from you justify the asked reservation fee?

>what bambu should i pick up?
Depends on what you want to do and your budget.

>>2967056
i just want an all around nice printer thats a good deal, coming from a clapped out Ender3v2

>>2967050
Arranging to meet up in a couple of days when both of you are free should not require a 'deposit'. If you were asking him to hold it for a week or more then maybe.

But back when I was doing a lot of selling on kijiji I would refuse to hold items for people because of so many no shows.

>>2967077
Then you'll probably be happy with any Bambu machine that's in good working order. That looks like a good price if it's as the seller says. Don't expect the AMS to be included though. From my knowledge of Bambu printers, you might have some maintenance to do like replacing carbon fiber rods. See if you can get a demonstration of actual printing.

>>2967090
did a reverse image exact match search and it was a scam.

looking at reddit alot of people would take a new machine over a used one it seems, can these bambus not be overhauled to near new or something or are these redditors too retarded to use a screw driver

>>2967090
I wouldn't do it just to not complicate things when you need spare parts / support. The X1C is a solid machine (we used them from pretty much launch) but I would get the ones that came after this first printer since the newer designs have many improvements the X1C didn't get. I got a H2S for my functional printing needs and the nozzle self-cleaning works pretty much perfect on the H2S were the X1C often flings poop onto the bed which can mess up the pre-print height sensing which messes up the first layer.
H2S with an external 5kg spool is so hands off that I couldn't imagine going back to 1kg spools + AMS. The main advantage of the AMS was the automatic switching of same-colored spools (for functional printing) but just using a 5kg or even 10kg spool makes much more sense for a strictly functional printing machine. The only issues I had with the X1C were always related to the AMS having issues.

>>2967014
One of the cheap chink brands, their characteristic is having a heated chamber and it makes a shitload of difference for printing engineering filaments like ABS or ASA.
Their Q2 is heavily shilled because it's really good value and has less issues than their previous printers, my favorite part is that it has more precise 1.5GT belts which normally only come in much more expensive bambu H2 series and that helps with wall artifacts, although not completely eliminates them as they advertise
Just keep in mind that it's not a completely plug and play experience like bambu. I had to tweak klipper config files in my Q2 before I could even print at the advertised 65 degrees celsius chamber because they couldn't be arsed to properly config stuff, they cut a lot of corners to bring the price down and all the money went into just printing capability. Which is great and on tolerance tests it passes the first or at worst second step.
Oh and Q2 is not great at printing PLA until you print yourself one of the custom part cooling ducts (in at least ASA), the stock one is not even centered and leaks air all over the place causing bad overhang quality.

Need feedback, Just getting started and I want the deadest simplest no brain start. I’m thinking just bambulab A1 mini with a single spool of grey filament. PLA or
PETG. I won’t need anything else just to get started, right? I actually only plan to print some simple gears, axels, and bearings to start learning about simple mechanics. Desk size demos. For a single filament I won’t even need an AMS, right? Much appreciated

>>2967128
Can't get any easier than A1/mini with PLA as a starter printer, yes
>For a single filament I won’t even need an AMS, right?
Yes you don't need AMS if you don't want to print in multi-color, but you need a filament dryer if you want to print PETG because it absorbs moisture like a motherfucker and prints much worse when it's not paper dry.

Why aren't garolite print beds standard?

>>2967128
Yeah, you've pretty much got it. Our two A1 minis are absolute work-horses and I've previous experience with i3s, CR-10s, Prusa MK3Ss that I've owned before switching to BambuLab printers and since then it's been smooth sailing for me, as a PETG only user. I would just get one big spool to make that printer even more hands off. I'm currently using a 5kg spool made by Sunlu for 40..50 Euros, so much better value than the Prusament filament that costs 30 Euros per 1kg spool.
I don't use any filament dryer yet but I'm ripping through spools since I only have one open at a time so maybe that's the reason I didn't have any issues with moisture printing PETG yet. I occasionally use a hot air gun to remove fine strings but that depends on the model and how much the nozzle has to jump between positions.
Grey filament is also an excellent choice for a standard color as it's a neutral color suited for eventual 3D scanning or making features in figures/busts pop better than white or black.
It might be a good idea to put the printer into a place where there is no draft since warpage can be an issue on long parts (not as bad as ASA or ABS but it still warps a tiny bit, depending on the geometry of the part).

>>2967098
>That looks like a good price if it's as the seller says
They're asking for money in advance, it's a scam.
There's no printer, the dude is in India or Russia or China or a scam centre in fucking Myanmar or Cambodia.
I guess there's plenty of these scams run inside USA as well, sometimes it's foreign scammers coordinating local scammers.

Anyway who wants money in advance is a scammer. Every time.

>>2967134
What's wrong with PEI coated spring steel sheets? Besides getting pulled up in the corners due to magnets not being strong enough?
Garolite seems to be a good choice for printing Nylon tho, gotta look into it.

>>2967140
Garolite is great for everything.

>>2966890
PETG is one of the worst filaments in existence. I have used it extensively printing stuff like cupholders for my cars, gauge pods, clips and brackets, drone parts, basically stuff that I WOULD use ABS for if I had no air quality concerns, but it's far too hot and humid here to print in my garage so my printer is in my office. I hate the fucking stuff. Humidity is between 45% and 55% basically all year in my house, so I have to store it in a dry box. If it gets wet, it is useless, infill blobbing and stringing everywhere, causing clogs. I've had a roll that I dried still print terribly. This is probably the same issue.

And yes, I also print with an old printer: a direct drive and glass surface converted Tevo Tornado.

>>2967141
Is it similar to PEI that it bonds really great to PETG while how and break that bond after cooling? I really like how the parts fall of my plate when I prop it up and let it cool so I don't have to worry about damaging the PEI layer.
Anyways, I'm so glad FDM printers are pass the glass bed with painters tape on it.

>>2967120
i think just about every part can be purchased but it's either through bambu, printing your own or rolling the dice on ali express