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Here's the toothed joint at work.

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Has anyone built their own enclosure? Any guides?

Was thinking of using a cardboard box, since I have a nice durable one with no dents or creases. Not sure about the door though. Might go to a hardware store and get a transparent acrylic sheet. Would I need fans?

>>2964623
The common way was building one out of ikea lack tables.

>>2964623

Wholesome acrylic box probably best bet, cardboard will work for sure, but if thing catch fire you will have nasty surprise. I used cardboard enclosure foiled from inside for some time, It does a job, more or less and totally unsafe. As for me I use Ender made soft enclosure, no filter, no fans, no heating. Just nylon material, with foil coating inside, light tube carcass and zipper as means to close it. Printed in it things like nylon, ABS and PP, works OK, probably some temp control and heating won't hurt but since I can do good job without this, fuck it. Still heated chamber would be nice, but not for carboard box, fire is a thing and you should avoid it.

>>2964620
Nice cat. have soft spot for those furballs.

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>>2964618
>my grip in the OP
The lighting made it look like there was stringing on it but it came out fine. I ended up not even using it, though.

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>>2964618
>You wouldn't download a girlfriend, would you?
https://youtube.com/shorts/mRZRvscJC9Q?si=A3lhFnR51Ba7vrX-

>>2964679
https://youtube.com/watch?v=mRZRvscJC9Q
Delete your fucking post and repost it without tracking links newfag.

>>2964689
>Oh no, google will find out you looked at 3D printing content!

>>2964694
the tracking links kill embeds
it also add YOUR browsing history to my youtube, so if you were watching nothing but anime waifu abuse ASMR before that video, im going to get recommended that shit.

>>2964714
>the tracking links kill embeds
Technically it was the /shorts/ bit that killed the embed. Tracking links don't kill it though they should.

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should I drop a cool 3k on an H2C?

>>2964714
>he logs into youtube like a good goy and doesn't scrub his cookies automatically on exit

>>2964728
>should I drop a cool 3k on an H2C?
Is that a lot of money for you?
Are you buying this just for hobby use?

>>2964728
It's okay. But, I feel like if you spent that money on 4 P2Ss you'd probably get more out of it.

H2C is faster, makes less waste and whatever. But, it's not as fast as 4 P2Ss you could get for the price.

>>2964728
The nozzle changer is a meme. Sure it reduces waste, but doesn't eliminate it. It Wait for someone to properly implement Bondtech's INDX in a complete system.

>>2964729
>he thinks they don't track you when not logged in
>he thinks clearing cookies actually makes you untrackable

anon, i get stuck setting up friends and family members devices constantly, and you would be AMAZED how much data get carried over to a fresh install of chrome on an out of the box windows laptop as soon as you connect a wifi signal and open youtube.

family friend is a HUGE conspiracy nut, getting his daughters school laptop set up (all offline, no MS account, windows 10) and youtubes front page was chock full of antivax vids.
we signed in to her youtube kids account, and they vanished.

same thing with a single friends work computer, except it was those "dating in the 3rd world".

im not saying they're spying, just that the recommendation algorithm will use ANY information they can get to pin you down and get you seeing content to stay on the platform.

>>2964649
Non-crosslinked natural rubber is a thermoplastic and can be injection moulded, and probably printed with a pellet extruder, or maybe a filament extruder if you store the filament in dry ice. Then you could vulcanise it in an autoclave or whatever once it’s printed.

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Anybody have advice for ironing? I would love to have a really nice smooth finish on this flat topped part but when I tried it most of it was mediocore at best and a good chunk of it was worse than if I hadn't ironed at all. A few small sections came out really good. Pic related, I have close ups if needed.

I'm looking at most of it and it seems like it's not getting enough material to flow into the gaps? Do I need to increase the flow rate?

>>2964784
You would want to dial in your flow rate for each individual roll of filament (could be +/-1% between different rolls of the same brand, and +/-3-5% for different brands of the same material), slow your top layer speed to 20mm/sec ALWAYS, and if you insist on still using ironing, then increase your ironing retract so you don't smear molten precum all over the part.
OR, you can switch to ABS or ASA and learn how to vapor smooth; it's both easy and addictive.

>bambu a1 doesn't have a usb port
are you farking me?

>>2964789
just use an sd card bro

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$1500 printer
$20 PEI plate
$20 PLA
$4 model
$7 superglue
---------------
$1.47 income because my daughters friend insisted on paying me for the toy

I hear this business SCALES? should I buy 50 or 100 more printers?

>>2964689
they seriously couldn't find a 4th square pattern? I'm so triggered

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>>2964728
fuck yes

>>2964730
>>2964735
>>2964741
wrong

>>2964784
damn monofilament dudes will try ANYTHING

>>2964912
What does this have to do with only using one filament? What would I use a second kind for here?

>>2964879
Wait, did you fuck up a PEI plate while using PLA?

Does anyone have experience making projects that make use of air pressure? I want to use balloons and water bottles to hold air for different 3D printing projects. I just bought a couple foot pumps as well. So my main questions are how can I drill a hole in a water bottle, insert a 3D printed socket that goes into it on one end and adapts the hose of a pump on the other and make it air tight. I have a hot glue gun as well as other adhesives and O rings. Also, is there a way to print a kind of air tight valve that can restrict or allow air flow?

>>2964948
I'd use beeswax to make it airtight.
Worked for my airbrush.

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>>2964932
He's joking saying the 'cats' could have been printed on instead of woven separately.

Although judging by your confusion and the electrical components in the background, is it possible that isn't a green spool filament but actually an led noodle?

>>2962072
its a cryogrip pro glacier, should be better than >80% of plates

>>2964961
doesn't matter the material, you're printing way to far away from it.
instead of just assuming the newest tool makes it fine learn how your printer works.

fuck, it so obvious some people posting in this thread never had to deal with painters tape or glass beds.

>>2964963
everyone has to start somewhere anon

>>2964954
Oh yeah it's an LED noodle lol. Honestly I kinda suspected that's what they were thinking but it felt funny to act like I didn't. That might be a bad habit lol, I don't know

I could do dual filament with my qidi x pro or flash forge creator pro. Although I'd have to split it into 2 prints because the bed isn't big enough I think.

>>2964972
yeah, but these mongoloide are 'starting' on $2000 machines with all the bells and whistles
i started on a $200 monoprice select mini.

i learned how to make the best of a subpar machine, and gained skills for future machines.
this dude cant even figure out why his first layer isn't sticking when its CLEARLY not squishing at all.
and even with all that, the printer STILL sometimes works for him.
and instead of doing the basic solution of googling the issue, or basics, he asked on 4chan for help.

>>2964948
This is an interesting line of thinking! First off you might need extra wall layers to be fully air-tight depending on how modern/precise your printer is, and if you want to have an air tank printed you'll definitely want it for strength.

>So my main questions are how can I drill a hole in a water bottle, insert a 3D printed socket that goes into it on one end and adapts the hose of a pump on the other and make it air tight.
I have a few ideas about this. First, rather than drilling a hole in the bottle, you might consider printing an adapter that just screws onto it. That might be hard to get a good seal though.
Another idea that might work is to melt a hole in the cap with a soldering iron or drill a hole and then print an adapter that pokes through the hole with a flange and an o-ring on the inside part of the cap. That way the air pressure can't launch the adapter out of the bottle and more pressure will hold it tighter.

As for valves, thats gonna involve a little more thought. I've made back-check valves by taking duct tape and taping it onto itself to make a nonsticky flap and have that rest against the opening of a water bottle that's been cut in half and the top part turned around facing into the bottle and then the two ends duct taped closed and a hole in the bottom to let air out. Not what you're after but maybe could provide some inspiration.

Actually I just had an idea for a really simple air valve. Just kink the air tube. You could print a device that holds the tube in a U-shaped position that doesn't restrict air flow, then have a 3d printed threaded screw with a plate attached to the end that pushes down on the tube to tighten it's bend radius until it kinks and cuts off flow. You might be able to get decent flow control out of that too. A similar idea would be just a jacket that the tube goes through in a straight line and the screw and plate just push down on it. Not as robust but simpler.

>>2964963
>painters tape or glass beds
do people not use these anymore?

>>2964984
>print an adapter that pokes through the hole with a flange
Side note on this part: I get the idea you're probably not working with really high pressure but do keep in mind that the horizontal plane is weaker than the other axis so if something is trying to pull your adapter out of a hole, it's more likely to pull the thing apart if you print it straight up and down. Again probably won't be an issue but thought I might mention it.

Are larger models like buildings meant to take like 16 hours to print on the bambu A1? Also, how much filament would you use to print such a thing?

>>2964985
no I got a decent printer. still rockin the gluestick occasionally though.

>>2964989
design and infill matter a lot. If you just plop a rectangle building down you're going to get infill for the whole thing. remove the floor so its' a shell and you just traded infill for supports. post some model pics or point me to the .stl and I'll see if I can give you some advice.

>>2964985
please if you use glass change it for a slab of cast aluminium...

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saw this on an amazon review for hygrometers
>each spool individual packaged
>custom printed base with mount for hygrometer
>transparent bin labelled with filament color
i'm picking up some tubs that i can store 6 spools in and i thought i was being autistic

>>2965007
>colour label when you can see the colour clearly
Why?

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>>2964948

>>2965008
I could see doing that if you're colorblind or potentially employing colorblind individuals, but in the case of a print farm employer you should have SKUs on your shit.

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>>2965017
color+material type for a homelab sure but just color in transparent tubs feels either performative, retarded or maybe they were just excited. still feels like they did it for social media

>>2964728
Depends. Are you interested in printing engineering materials? Get a H2D with an AMS2.
Are you printing models with lots of different filament colors? Get a H2C + n * AMS2.
Do you just want a reliable printer for functional parts? Get a H2S with a 5kg spool of PETG.
I got the last option for home use and it's nice to not having to handle filament much or waste time on the AMS going brrrr. I do print only functional parts and no multi-color knick-knacks.

>>2964741
Why not just wait for true color printers?

>>2964728
Yes, I bought one, shits fucking awesome, it's very easy to add casual coloring and text to things like gridfinity bins when there is no downside apart from a little extra print time

>>2964985
As with all other technology, 3d printers also improved and they finally figured out that glass beds was the most worthless idea ever conceived. Competent brands use build plates in aluminium and you only need to apply some glue stick for hard to print materials like abs

>>2965007
might be cheaper to print them bro

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>>2965102
it's close but the walmart tubs come with rubber gaskets

How do you know which parts of an FDM print need supports? Bambulab auto supports seem to apply them to areas that don’t appear to need them but idk

>>2965123
Picrel for what I mean

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>>2965129
Fuck

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>>2965130
Also my first prints. Quality is… eh? Any tips for increasing it? Ideally without doubling the print time

>>2965008
i guess so you can see the colors while not having proper illumination, i have storage areas in which checking which dark color would be difficult. And if you label part of them you may as well label all of them

>>2965131
This is absolutely insane quality for an FDM machine, especially if it is one of your first prints. Don't expect much better results if you're going to do figurines and things like that with such humongous overhangs and tiny details
If this is all you're gonna print you should've probably gone for a resin printer, or at least something with dual extrusion that can print water soluble filament for supports

>>2965130
>>2965123
>How do you know which parts of an FDM print need supports?
There's a bit of an art to it and the slicer (probably) does some guessing, so reslicing it might generate different supports.
I don't know Bambu Studio so I can't say how it does supports but those wavering towers are actually an attempt to minimise support contact with the structure. It's how the slicer can ensure something is supported when it overhangs the edge by just a little bit, it starts off with a larger support further away from the structure and walks it in at a stable rate, reducing the size of it as it goes and then just reaches out at the end to the thing that needs to be supported.
It's meant to make it easier to cut supports off and minimise damage doing so.
If you look through detailed options in the slicer, you should see some that are like:
>max angle that requires supports
>max overhang that requires supports
>min distance from support tower to print
Go through those and see what sort of things influence the slicer's decision to generate supports.
You can use a support calibration test (as in find a print that's designed to test supports) and print it with a few different settings like the ones above and see what works and what doesn't.

Or you can just leave it on auto and it will probably be fine.

>>2965131
>>2965131
>babby's first prints. Quality is… eh?
It's pretty good, what's up with the one on the right? That looks like it ended up significantly worse than the other two. Something to do with layer height maybe.

The one on the left looks like you maybe want to reduce layer size or...I'm not sure how but there might be something like z-retract or z-hop that would reduce the obvious layer lines on the diagonal braces. That's probably a difficult part to print smoothly, the sides of the print look fantastic.
I can see a little stringing here and there, messing with temperature is usually the way to fix that.

The one in the middle/rear looks great.

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dont think it was ever this low
this sunlu filament came from atlantis or something, it was completely unusable

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>>2965136
>water soluble filament for supports
The fuck?!
You can just wash supports off?

Meanwhile I'm sitting here with a side cutter and pliers like this print had me restrained in a basement.

>>2965186
>>water soluble filament for supports
Yeah my first printer had dual extruders and even though its archaic compared to say a K1 it's still really useful for soluble supports or even just multi-color prints. There's other materials that disolve in other solvents for printing stuff that doesn't stick to PVA supports very well.

>>2965186
you never headr of pva filament or some others?
nta but i worked with an stratasys and soluble filament back then
filament were cartridges with the extruder and the motor incluided, it was curious as they were way simpler than what we use, a regular dc motor and maybe even didnt had temp sensor? or was basic, as the extruder was made for a very specific material.
also fuckers expected us to put a new plate for every print kek
fun times.

>>2965191
>you never headr of pva filament or some others?
Nope.
I started on an Anycubic Kobra Max and that's what I still have.
Until recently, I hadn't done anything more adventurous than PLA+ like polywood or PLA/CF or maybe TPU95 on a really wild night.

>>2965192
>>2965192
I'm pretty sure HIPS (High Impact PolyStyrene) is soluble in limonene (from citrus fruit peels but very concentrated) and is a good compatiable support material for PETG or ABS. ABS is soluble in acetone. But yeah PVA is chemichally very similar to children's glue sticks so if you soak it in warm water it will begin to degrade. You usually want to pull off what you can first or do a pre-soak and then pull off what comes easily and only fully dissolve the stubborn bits but that's just for the sake of time honestly. With enough water changes and time and maybe some gentle agitation it will all eventually dissolve. Very useful for printing very delicate stuff.

I got an Ender 3 V3 KE, which replaced a heavily modified older Ender 3 clone. My last printer I spent so much time trying to get it properly that it burned me out from the hobby. With the KE I haven't spent nearly as much time with getting it working properly, but I'm equally annoyed with it. Had this bug where when you try to print in petg at higher temps it would suddenly drop to pla temps and ruin the print. I think a new firmware fixed this, but it was broken for like 6 months.

So I was thinking of getting a Bambu labs one. I was thinking the P2S, but I'm worried that it sucks for PETG. Does it? So many videos showing it do really well with PLA, but PETG I see filament bulbs clogging the extruder.

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>>2965259
There's also PVB filament, which is soluble in IPA and doesn't absorb a shit ton of water from the air like PVA does. I'd love to see a chart like this one:
https://toms3d.org/2024/12/06/try-these-filament-combinations-for-multi-material-and-supports/
But with more filaments included. Especially engineering and soluble filaments.

Apparently standard PLA dissolves in concentrated bases like sodium/potassium hydroxide drain cleaner, but I would want to first test the other filaments to see if they're harmed by the hydroxide at all. Not having a volatile solvent means you don't have to worry about it evaporating, but it does prevent you from distilling it off to reuse it.

>>2965285
Personally I think you're best off getting a printer that can reliably print ABS so you can forget about PETG entirely. The main reason to use PETG over PLA is its heat resistance and UV resistance, which ABS and ASA are better at. ASA is more expensive than PETG, but ABS should be cheaper than PETG if you aren't after UV resistance. The P2S should be pretty good at ABS, but one with a heated chamber like the H2S or whatever Qidi printer people recommend these days would be better for sure. You can add your own 3rd party chamber heater to any enclosed printer, but I doubt Bambu would let you control it from the printer like you could with a Klipper machine.

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I'm designing yet another air purifier in freecad and I'm wondering of adding a stator or stator-like blades to 'help' the flow straight upwards but since I know shit about fluid dynamics I just can't make sense on what the fuck I'm doing.

Currently the idea is to have some central 'cup' so there is no turbulence on the backside of the motor; this i've seen on plenty other designs, I think this is just fine.

The next I've done are concentrical 'circles' that are inclined inwards; in hopes of pushing the air to the inside and make it some sort of a column? This can be profoundly retarded, please give feedback on the design/angle of these blades (the constraints can also be retarded; I'm new at cad)

I also need something to hold the circular blades; and I've thought about using the fan chassis blades that support the motor (in red in my picture) as the base for an extra four blades that add some more "twist" like a cooking pan lid does for the air to go upwards instead of 'everywhere'

Am I overcomplicating this?

>>2965411
>Am I overcomplicating this?
Immensely but that's part of the fun I assume.

Get yourself some incense or a mini-smoke machine so you can track the airflow.
You might think of some interesting visualisations you can do with an IR camera too.

>>2965411
Why are you making this, what will straightening the flow achieve?

Those axial computer fans produce very little pressure and anything on the backside will increase backpressure and reduce flow, you might even stall the flow or reverse it. You need a centrifugal type fan if you want to force the air to go through some kind of restriction.

The air coming out of an axial fan is spinning, if you want to straighten it out into laminar flow then you need flat guide vanes like the fins of a rocket, not circles.

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>>2965433
Its not necessarily straigtening, but pushing the air as upwards as possible so the same now-clean air does not recirculate to the filters back again; and also, in the enclosure, because it pushes up, it moves air in the whole chamber by convection-like currents and not just in the surrounds. All commercial purifiers do this.

This is the autistical goal, in practice I guess it does not make much difference for small purifiers like this one unlike whole-room big ones.

>>2965415
Yeah, incense is my go-to airflow analysis tool hahaha

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>>2965434
If that's your goal then get a centrifugal blower type fan, you can put straight vanes on the outlet and direct the air.

>>2965411
First off, what's the purpose of that specific fan? You're talking about air purification: did you start with a mass flow in mind? Do you have a target filtration level? Are you just slapping shit together?
Nothing wrong with doing a quick and dirty prototype, but what you want to achieve is extreme optimization without the fundamentals.

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For my first project I want to make bottle crates (likely 3x3) that can form a rack. I got into kegging and I make seltzer water for my family reusing glass bottles, but they drink a LOT and it goes fast. So I want crates that are moveable, stackable, and accessible.

Regular crates (bottles facing straight up vertical) aren't great. The bottles are tall which wastes space when stacking. And you can only grab from the top crate before needing to move it aside for the next crate.

So I try searching for 'racks' that may already exist. But there are major flaws. All the print files I see have bottles face perfectly horizontal, which is asking for them to slip out and cause accidents. My family is especially clumsy and it's also impractical for transporting. There are 'wine racks' but they are angled down (which I learned is to keep the corks wet) and often have large gaps inbetween. And again, not transportable.

-

I was just wondering if this design is okay, or if I'm wasting my time because this already exists, or if it could be more efficient. I know it's kinda silly to ask but it's gonna be my first major CAD/print job and I don't want to mess up. Idk if this is even the right thread to talk about designing stuff or if you only talk about printers.

>>2965468
look into a sodastream style carbonation on demand, my family love being able to just carbonate cold tap water when they want it.

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>>2965434
Use a duct to force the inlet and outlet to be far from one another.

>>2965468
From my experience, printing anything larger than 500g probably isn't worth it unless you can't avoid it. Below a certain scale, you can lighten up prints with infill thanks to the square-cube law, but the bigger you make it the thicker it needs to be. When we're talking about holding up multiple kilograms of mass, you're starting to get to that less efficient design paradigm. Larger prints naturally take longer to make and use up more material, and need a larger printer to make, though if you can use ABS it will probably be decently strong and decently cheap. With a larger nozzle (e.g. 1mm) it might be worth making these.

As for the design, personally I'd slant them more, maybe 45 degrees. That or have the bottles on their side with a hole at the bottom-front, just like those battery dispensers where they roll out the bottom, but that's probably a bad idea for something carbonated. Instead of rolling out the bottom, maybe you push the bottles up through a similar hole at the top-front. With a slot in the front for fingers, or maybe a lever. Could even make it ratcheting so the bottles don't go back down, though that would make the centre of mass pretty high.

Do you use a CO2 tank? How feasible would it be to have it carbonated on demand as the other anon says? If it's just tap water and CO2 it seems unreasonable to store it in its least dense form. Just take one bottle off the machine, and put another uncarbonated bottle on as you do so.

New to FDM printing, should I be concerned that auto supports aren’t generating for the cone bit?

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>>2965479
I’m a retard

>>2965479
>>2965481
They're overhanging by something around 45 degrees, not shallow enough to be the 30 degree threshold.

>>2965477
i feel like a that's overcomplicating it a bit.

>>2965468
anon, look into model paint racks, they're about what you're looking for, but smaller, since the entire point is to have all colors available without moving anything.

to cut down on plastic and print time, maybe look into a normal crate, then print the inserts.

>>2965482
Ah, so it doesn’t need supports?

>>2965472
>sodastream style carbonation on demand
Those machines suck. You need to use their special plastic water bottle to screw tight to the machine. It's difficult to tell how carbonated it is. And it's just 1 serving meaning you'd have to pour it into a glass and refill again to make another. The CO2 cartridges are small and expensive and will run out fast (although you can do a mod to hook up to a larger non-proprietary tank). After doing my research, I got a standard 5 gal corny keg and a 5lb CO2 tank with a regulator. I hook it all up, wait a day, then pour 25 bottles in one go that lasts about 1-2 weeks with my family.

>>2965477
Technically I can pour from keg to cup, but we prefer having bottles ready. Main reason is because I don't have a practical space to put the keg stuff. I do it in a cold garage (which is great since I don't need a fridge for the keg in, and a keg HAS to be cold to carb well). Would love to have it in the kitchen but can't. Second reason, we like to grab a fresh bottle every morning to take with us to work or wherever. Pre-filling saves time and you don't need to keep track of your personal bottle (i.e. did I leave it in the car? Did someone else drink out of this? Maybe I want 2 bottles today). Third reason, bottles make it easy to keep track how much water is left. I can't see inside a keg, and I don't have a continuous water supply hooked up. I have to refill manually. So to have someone try refilling themselves and go "ANON THE KEG IS EMPTY" every week would be annoying. With bottles I can make a new batch before the last runs out. I guess a solution would be to get a second keg. I might consider getting one some day.

I appreciate the thought put into the rolling dispenser design, but I'm gonna flat out deny it because the bottles are glass and carbonated, and seems overly complicated.

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>>2965485
>anon, look into model paint racks
They do look exactly like I wanted

Although now I'm second guessing myself if 3D-printing entire shelves is even practical. Like the other anon said, it could take a lot of filament. And more importantly, idk if it could handle the weight (I only have PLA). This might be a wood job (although I know even less about woodworking)

I know you were talking about the models of small racks with individual slots. If these were tiny paint bottles, I would definitely just print. But considering the scale/weight, something like pic related might work better.

>>2965503
i was mostly mentioning them to give you ideas, not as a 1 to 1 scale up, but yeah, i think a wood rack is your go to here, maybe just print some little slidestops.

just get some 2x4s and screw shelves on at and angle, and bam, bottle rack.

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>>2965468
just go to a liquor store they'll give you this shit for free

>>2965510
That's what I'm currently using and it's disintegrating. I want an upgrade and use space more efficiently. I'm gonna go with wood shelves instead. Sorry for wasting everyone's time. I over-complicated this.

>>2965500
>Technically I can pour from keg to cup
I was thinking more having an adapter from your cylinder to your bottle of choice. You could probably also just buy the same fittings and bottles used by sodastream machines, have 2-4 connected to the same big cylinder and regulator, with a manual valve on each. But if having the bottles indoors and the CO2 and stuff outdoors is a requirement, then yeah a rack probably is the way to go.

The paint rack shown here >>2965503 has a steeper angle so the bottles can't fall out, and being wall mounted it's compact and there isn't any risk of it tipping over.
You may still get some use out of 3D printing jigs to hold the wood at the right angle and spacing when you cut it or fasten it together. It's also an option to print some (TPU?) buffer pieces to stop the bottles clinking against one another.

>>2964741
This.
Prusa is currently integrating it with their CORE ONE.

That'll be a true gamechanger.

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>>2965523
>I was thinking more having an adapter from your cylinder to your bottle of choice
That's dangerous when it comes to glass. A glass bottle could explode at 40psi (which is what I set my keg at). I can't directly carbonate in the bottles. Don't want to risk it.They used to make vintage glass siphons like pic related that were really thick and covered in metal hatching. Not worth it since a keg is the same thing but better.

Idk if 3D printing an adapter works anyway since I don't think you can make FLA parts meant to handle high pressures. There will likely be gas leaks.

I already have about 30 nice glass pellegrino bottles, but even if I did replace them for plastic ones, plastic leeches and also makes water taste weird. Even sodastream recommends replacing theirs every 2 years. Glass is also easier to clean than plastic, especially if I want to mix syrups inside.

All in all, not a good idea. Making a custom setup to hookup 4 bottles is way less practical than making a single large batch in a 5 gallon keg. I don't see the point anyways since the original issue was storing the bottles in crates, not needing to make 4 at a time. Don't see what that would achieve.

>>2965540
>since I don't think you can make FLA parts meant to handle high pressures
This looks like a job for engineering resin. Sirayatech Blu has been used for rocket engines.

>>2965540
Ahh, so the carbonation pressure is significantly higher than the storage pressure. My misunderstanding.
I certainly understand your desire to keep using glass bottles, the only alternative I'd accept would be thick borosilicate or stainless steel, and that would be expensive and difficult to obtain.
I wouldn't 3D print any high pressure adapters, if they're pressure resistant they probably won't be food safe too. I suspect a lot of the carbonation adapters for connecting big gas cylinders to sodastream hardware. Sketchy adapters on amazon, at least. I'm starting to consider doing the same as my dad drinks sparkling water from supermarket 1.5L bottles over dinner. The larger bottles go flat before he's finished with them.

>>2965528
That printer costs 3 times as much as equivalents. It will be cheaper than the XL and might compete with the H2C, but it won't exactly be competing with the Snapmaker U1.

>>2965468
Tilting the bottles is not a great idea since you waste lots of space, just look at all the unused space! Also, if you make your own stuff that goes fast, why not use a bigger vessel like the bottles used for water dispensers?
I think this is the classic case of a noob over-complicating things and creating problems that don't actually exist. Do not waste filament on this idea... you will most definitely throw it in the trash after using it a while.
Sorry, anon, but this is a shit idea and you shouldn't design practical stuff while high. Trust me, I know.

>>2965489
It's like in the game "Lemmings" where the stair builder guy builds stairs and climbs up that way. The rule of thumb is that you can print at least a 45 degree overhang or steeper. Go check out "torture test" models on makerworld or other sites to test the overhand capabilities of your printer. These test models usually test overhang angles, bridge-lengths, tolerances for holes and bolts, etc.
Like this:
https://makerworld.com/en/models/1304150-all-in-one-torture-test-fast-compact-v2?from=search#profileId-1337027

So my slightly tech illiterate brother in law and totally tech illiterate sister got my nine year old niece a AD5X for Christmas. I'm the tech/diy guy but I've never messed with a 3D printers at all. I'm sure I can figure things out and will enjoy my trial by fire. I just need to find some quick prints to show the printer off with. Anyone want to point me at something neat? She's a little tomboy, dinosaurs over ponies. I tripped over some neat flexi animals that she'll get a kick out of but might be a little tricky for a first print. I just want to find a thing or three to start with and have those going while the niece and I browse for other prints and figure things out. Any ideas?

>>2965601
Does she like any movies or media properties with readily-printable models available? Puzzles? Animals? Are there any pre-sliced gcodes that came with the printer?

>>2964679
>>2964689
so what's the softest material you can 3D print now with off the shelf consumer hardware?
I looked around a little and so far I haven't seen anything softer than 40A which is too hard for a fleshlight/onahole.

>>2965605
That's most of the stuff I'm looking up. Fave movies and whatnot. I was just wondering if there was something general that was "Hey, this was cool, check it out" kind if things. Neat little puzzles or devices that are quick to knock out.
>Are there any pre-sliced gcodes that came with the printer?
Oh shit, I didn't even think of that. I'll have to do a little digging. I don't have the thing sitting in front of me but I can probably find out after a little searching. Thanks for that, it'll be good to know.

>>2965608
You can probably get softer than standard elastomer filaments by using foaming filaments, not that you'd want porous foamed filament for any hygenic application. Thicker filaments (i.e. 3mm) are easier to push down an extruder than the more common 1.75mm standard, but I don't see anyone taking advantage of that to sell unusually soft elastomer filaments.
Pellet extruders offer the ability to both print exceedingly soft thermoplastic elastomers, but also the ability to print raw industrial pellets that people haven't seen a market to make into 3D printing filament. Pellet extruders have their own issues, but I think you could buy such an extruder to bolt onto a cartesian frame for a thousand dollars or less. See:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SaUFj3iNcs8
5A TPU on Greenboy's cobbled together extruder, which he sells on his website for $700.
There was another guy on youtube trying to make one, but the extrusion width kept varying as individual pellets got melted one at a time. No clue how Greenboy got it right. Looks like it might be worth doing for big prints.

I got some mould-making casting silicone recently, but I'm not unemployed enough to make an ona with it.

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>>2965436
>Yeah, incense is my go-to airflow analysis tool hahaha
There are a bunch of mini fog machines like pic rel for $40 but you can also get this one below for about the same price, though the big ones usually start around $100.
https://www.amazon.com/Automatic-Preheating-Indicator-Halloween-Christmas/dp/B08BQYNPXV/136-4568603-9869918

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>>2965540
>They used to make vintage glass siphons like pic related
They still do, not all in glass.

You can still print some bottle guides for a shell, it will look pretty much like the top gasket on an engine's cylinder block and just hold the bottles snuggle on the shelf and maybe at the right angle if you feel like getting clever with CAD.

>>2965608
>I haven't seen anything softer than 40A which is too hard for a fleshlight/onahole
Don't use 3d printed stuff directly for sex. It's really not insertion safe, either way.
You use it to print moulds, then finish those moulds with smoothing and gap filling, then cast your toy with the mould using latex or whatever.

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>>2965434
I'm using this on an axial fan in my stereo cabinet but i have it blowing out instead of in

>>2965617
>$40 for a $10 chinese vape mod with a $5 aquarium pump or brushless fan in a $0.30 laser cut wood case
good lord

>>2965634
>>$40 for a $10 chinese vape mod with a $5 aquarium pump or brushless fan in a $0.30 laser cut wood case
Sounds like you know how to build one then.
For me, $40 would be worth not having to spend a few hours on doing it myself, plus I don't have a laser cutter for the plywood though I guess you could print that too.
If it was fun then I wouldn't mind doing it myself but if it was in the way of something else then I'd pay the money just to get to work on what I actually wanted to be doing.

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I just came to say I hate 3D printer fags and I hope you aren't just polluting the world with more 3D printed crap. Have a bad day.

>>2965642
We hate those boomers too.

>>2965642
I 3D printed part of my catless downpipe on one of my cars, I'm polluting even more than a trinketfag.

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>>2965642
i don't even think about you

Got my Qidi Q2 last week, feels so weird printing ASA with difficulty comparable to PETG, that 65 degrees chamber works. Can't be beat at that price point, that's for sure.

>>2965601
Check out sites like makerworld, thingiverse, printables or cults3d for neat models to print. I would start with makerworld since most of the models there are printable with FDM printers. There is a neat snow-flake generator that makes random snow-flakes to make the home more festive that don't take much white filament to print.
There are some really nice dinosaur skulls on there too but they usually require supports so maybe do them later as a more advanced project.
Start with PLA or PETG filament since they don't warp much so you have a better chance to get successful prints. Avoid ABS, filaments containing abrasive materials, ASA and basically all engineering filaments for starters.
I would search for the favorite animal of your niece on these platforms, maybe?
I would look out for models that say "no supports" that can be printed without support material, which can make prints fail or ends up with tedious removal of said supports.
Look here, it's a cute pencil holder: https://makerworld.com/en/models/541722-dinosaur-t-rex-pencil-holder?from=search#profileId-459282

>>2965695
Or this, the incredible bubble straw: https://makerworld.com/en/models/18575-incredible-bubble-straw-for-kids?from=search#profileId-17383

>>2965601
>>2965695
yeggi.com is a metasearch for those places

>>2965584
>It's like in the game "Lemmings"
my nigga. the amiga was peak computing

>>2965601
flexi are actually really easy to print. if anything you should be inundated by things to print. I was thinking you can print barbie accessories, but maybe meat for the dinos, ramps for the skateboards, you can repair or replace things she might have broken - like you can make hotwheels track connectors or, again, ramps. you can print helmets for her little stuffies so they can do extreme sports. sky is the limit.

>>2965608
patience you deviant fucksickle, consoomer direct silicone is coming soon

>>2965436
>>2965617
>>2965634
we used to smoke god dammit and all it cost you was a ciggy and your lungs.

>>2965648
just bend over and pick up the donut you fat fuck

>>2965710
Why would you do that when you can make an overly complicated combination donut lifter and lotion lowerer?

>>2965601
Just tell them you need to take it home to figure it out


Then don’t bring up the 3d printer again

>free 3d printer

Why is my printer making these weird loopy deposits, and how do I make it stop? Bambu A1, this is upside down from how it was printed so it seems to do this on the underside of things. Is it a sign they need supports?

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>>2965797
Forgot the image again due to severe retardation

>>2965798
youre the support guy right? were these models designed to be printed?

>>2965797
>Is it a sign they need supports?
Yes.

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>>2965797
>>2965798
Those a normal opverhangs. Because nothing is supporting the filament there, it's printing in mid-air. You have a few options:
>experimental arc overhangs, idk man the python script flat-out failed last time I tried it, maybe that autistic japanese slicer has it integrated by now
>changing the mesh of the model to be more printable (IIRC Orca can do this automatically but it does mess with your models a bit)
>adding in manual supporting structures in your 3d modelling/cad program of choice
>organic/tree supports like a normal person, automatic supports might generate everywhere so i'd probably paint them on manually

Also is pic related peeling off the bed? Ensure you're cleaning your bed regularly (ipa wipes after every print, and a warm soapy wash every few months or as needed. Besides that, protruding structures like those beams are likely to benefit from mouse-ears, if not a full brim. They can be time consuming to remove, but sharp thin areas often suffer from bed adhesion due to model warpage.

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what is the best way to split a long but thin panel while making it easy to accurately put the thing back together? This thing is 300mm long and 6mm wide. i could print it standing up but i need those rectangles to come out perfectly so i can't do that.

What's the most heat resistant filament that's without carbon/glass fibers? Printed a custom part cooling duct with ASA but people said it eventually warps (it touches the heat sock).

>>2965812
Can you have fasteners protruding on the top and bottom? I'd want to print two pieces with 10-20mm wide pads that are 3mm thick instead of 6mm on the intersecting ends, and screw them together with screws through these overlapping sections. With short screws and threaded inserts in one side it might be able to not protrude from one of the two sides.

What does the part do? It strikes me as the sort of thing you could get ordered waterjet cut from sendcutsend or whoever.

>>2965813
EasyPC is probably the best balance between printability and temperature resistance. Some polycarbonate filaments are much less warp-prone than others, I hear Prusa's is the best but never in stock. If you have a heated chamber it's probably less of an issue which one you get. Though if you don't mind setting the thing in sand or plaster of paris, annealed PLA goes up to 150C. There's also nothing stopping you from printing a mould to inject epoxy into, maybe pre-filled with carbon/glass fibres.

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>>2965812
Like the other guy said, overlapping tabs, but use glue or a solvent bond instead of screws.

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>>2965815
>It strikes me as the sort of thing you could get ordered waterjet cut from sendcutsend or whoever.
yes it could be very easily lasercut but i want to do as much as i can at home.

>>2965817
do you know of any glues that work well with plastic and wood?

i think i will just go to the hardware store and buy some wooden profiles to put into the wide slot. together with some glue and generous and evenly applied pressure it should come out straight, right? Then with a cut like here the top side should also be aligned.