Thread got out of sync:>>2957310>I'm new to electronics. Where to get started?It is an art/science of applying principles to requirements.Find problem, learn principles, design and verify solution, build, test, post results, repeat.Read the datasheet.>OP source:https://github.com/74HC14/ohmOPbake at page 10, post in old thread>Comprehensive list of electronics resources:https://github.com/kitspace/awesome-electronics>Project ideas:https://hackaday.iohttps://instructables.com/tag/type-id/category-technology/https://adafruit.comhttps://makezine.com/category/electronics/>Books:https://libgen.is/>Principles (by increasing skill level):Mims III, Getting Started in ElectronicsGeier, How to Diagnose & Fix Everything ElectronicKybett & Boysen, All New Electronics Self-Teaching GuideScherz & Monk, Practical Electronics for InventorsHorowitz and Hill, The Art of Electronics>Recommended software tools:KiCAD 6+CircuitmakerLogisim Evolution>Recommended Components/equipment:OctopartLCSCeBay/AliExpress sellers, for component assortments/sample kits (caveat emptor)Local independent electronics distributorsladyada.net/library/procure/hobbyist.html>Most relevant YouTube channels:EEVblogW2AEWMoritz Klein>microcontroller specific problems?>>>/diy/mcg>I have junk, what do?Shitcan it>consumer product support or PC building?>>>/g/>household/premises wiring?More rules-driven than engineering, try /qtddtot/ or sparky general first>antigravity and/or overunity?Go away
idea: DIP plushie
>>2964853What, like this?
I have never changed soldering iron tips.I just always rub it on the golden metal wool stuff until it wets again.I also always solder at the highest temperature setting (480C)
people give conflicting advice on discharging capacitors. some badasses say it's fine to just short them with a screwdriver. but for sensitive circuits it's not just about personal safety and cosmetic damage to the screwdriver from sparks, but you don't want to risk damaging the capacitor itself. a 180 ohm 5 watt resistor would discharge it within a fraction of a second so it's not even that inconvenient to use if you have it on hand?
>>2964975> will not be in continuous use during workdays> IPC standards is mostly for durability and inspectability, not really important for hobby> if something has a bad connections your time is already worthless since nobody is paying you for it, might as well grab that multimeter and find the issue> you are probably not using a suitable sized tip anyway so just cranking up the temperature might act as a crutch in many cases> with high enough temp you often almost doesn't need to wet out the tip because you will still put enough heat into the joint so allow the solder to wet jointFor hobbyist this is honestly fine, it's a hobby... Do whatever you you enjoy and works for you. Until the day you run into some issue and then it's super simple to look up some proper procedures to fix it.
I got a fnirsi cartridge-style soldering iron and I'm amazed at how quickly it heats up. From cold to melting solder in 2-3 seconds. Way faster than my ceramic-heater hakko.Huge fan so far, but I can't recommend or comment on its reliability because I just got i.
>>2964982> people give conflicting advice on discharging capacitorsIt's like EMI but for midwits. Something mysterious that you can rant about the potential dangers about. Only it's incredibly easy to avoid or design away in the case of capacitors.> but you don't want to risk damaging the capacitor itself.If it's critical and sensitive - design proper bleed circuitry so you don't have to short it.> not even that inconvenient to use if you have it on handIf it solves your (potential and/or imagined) problem and is is easy and/or convenient, why are you even asking about it?
>buy weller soldering iron>it was actually QCdis paying 10x the price worth it? yes
>>2964982Then just discharge it with a resistor if it's easy. For what it's worth most capacitors will survive because they either have enough internal inductance/resistance to limit the discharge rate or they're designed for fast discharges anyway. I regularly discharge 100 kV caps that are >$2000 each using a shitty relay or even just a plastic stick with copper braid at the end and have never damaged one doing it.
>>2964999What tips does it use? T245 like the HS02 or DWS200? They’re fast, yeah. And you can use name-brand JBC tips if you have issues with tip longevity. The HS01’s SH72-style tips are also still decently fast, but because it’s a chinky tip design you’re stuck with what comes out of china.If you do have an HS01/02, what’s the ergonomics like? They look a fair bit chunkier compared to the TS100-style irons, but the cap that fits over them is nice looking. On the other hand, that Miniware TS1M looks really nice.>>2965009>buy noname chinky iron>find free online schematic for it reverse-engineered by russians>put custom open-source firmware on it>can buy tips from multiple different manufacturers and suppliers>mosfet dies after 5 years, look at schematic and fix itFeels good to easily be able to do whatever the hell I want on what I bought and paid for.
I want one of those soldering stations with arms and a magnifying glass. Are there any that aren't shit? Most of the reviews are terrible`
>>2965044>soldering stations with arms and a magnifying glassreputable soldering iron manufacturers dont create such carnival monstrosities
>>2965068I mean, let's not pretend people aren't bolting articulating magnifying glasses to their workbenches
>>2965069>workbenchesmakes more sense to bolt them to your headthe lenses follow your eyes (and tilt) everywhere automatically
>>2965025I got the HS-02 which takes C245 tips, far as I can tell. Ergonomically it's nice, sort of tri-lobed, easy to grip. The USB-C cable that it comes with is noodly, also nice.I just did another soldering test from cold and it melted the solder in under 2 seconds. I'm still blown away, I honestly don't think I'll ever use my hakko again, and I don't care at all that cartridge tips are more expensive.
>>2965087100W is better than most stations, I’m using a T12 station and it’s 72W or so, which is enough in most cases without having to boost the tip temp. Takes more like 8s to melt, which I’m guessing means it has more thermal mass. Because I’m already using T12s I bought an Si012 as my portable iron, it was the only T12 iron with both a USB C socket and a DC socket. At 20V USB PD though it’s only 50W, which can feel lacking at times. They could improve the iron by giving it a third set of contacts to take SH72 tips (which are lower resistance), in addition to TS/ST and T12 tips. IronOS would be nice too.I still think someone should make a portable iron that can shunt 200W to a T245 cartridge, or even 400W to the extra fat JBC cartridges, with an XT60 connector moulded into the back. USB C could be a dongle if there’s no room, better than doing it the other way around.Or for network admins, a PoE-powered soldering iron!
>>2965088> 200WThat’s a lot if power. You’d need AI assist with the premium monthly plan for your digital AI soldering iron.
>>2965107Dimmer iron anon again? Stay your mocking keyboard fingers til you can provide a real argument. If I can power through D2PAKs and PowerPak-SO8s, then hot-swap tips to work on an 0402, I see no downside. The Miniware TS1M seems to up to 200W with a very convenient form-factor, though the nice T245 pencil stands are larger than the station itself at this point. You supply your own power supply, but that’s pretty easy for hobbyists with all sorts of power bricks lying about, or RC technicians with their big lipos.
Never soldered anything in my life that worked afterwards.I need to solder 2 small joints for TSOP flashing.Will conductive paint marker/pen do the job? It just needs to last long enough for the flashing.
>>2965117You’d be better off with a programming spring-clip or a custom pogo-pin jig. The latter is doable if you can 3D print such a jig.I suspect conductive paint/ink/varnish/glue won’t have low enough resistance, but you could still give it a try. Just make sure you don’t short anything with it. And that you can clean it off afterwards.
>>2965117Learn how to solder.
>>2965117https://www.youtube.com/@jkgamm041/videos
fucking inductors are getting really tiny
>>2965117You're likely not using an appropriate amount of flux.That's the number one mistake people make and you cannot get away without using flux.
I need a "3rd hand" for soldering. I'm mostly interested in working with small PCBs so I went and looked at what's available for cheap. Which of these would you pick? Which of these is the most useful and the best?
>>2964845Recommendations for benchtop variable power supply? $100-200 range
>>2965198Blue Tack putty.
>>2965199what specs?
>>2965199Best value for money in that range is Riden's RD60xx range.I got a RD 6018, it does 60V and 18A so 1080W max output.The RD 6018 unit is a DC to DC converter, fed from a DC power supply.You can buy just the RD 6018 front panel unit solo, an empty case with prepared wires you just have to screw in, the loose power supply, or an entire kit that takes 5-10 minutes to assemble with nothing but a screwdriver.I got the kit with the front panel and the case:https://aliexpress.com/item/1005001488070904.htmlBut bought the PSU from a different vendor which was cheaper:https://aliexpress.com/item/1005003293483757.html (60V 20A variant)Most of these brick power supplies are adjustable, the one I bought was advertised as 60V, but I adjusted it up to 68V I think, which is the max input the RD6018 can handle. The max output I get on the RD6018 is now 62V or so. They got a little potentiometer screw near the terminals for adjustment.It's pretty accurate and has pretty low ripple and the power is clean and stable, even the snobs at EEVBlog and the like don't dare to shit on it.That should be well within a 200 bucks budget even with shipping and it's pretty much the beefiest option you can get before dipping into highend professional stuff.I have to say though I rarely use the max power of this thing, and having 2 or 3 lab power supplies of lower capacity would be kinda nice. sometimes you need 3.3V 5V 12V all at once but only 1-2 Amps total and want current limiting on each voltage.
>>2965198Any of those will work for soldering wires together. All but 3 won’t be useful for holding a PCB as you work on it. When soldering on a PCB you will need to put some force on the iron, and those flexible arms just bend. You need something that locks into place, like 3, or like a conventional PCB vice. I use an articulated PCB vice (TH1980 from Jaycar) which clamps well enough and allows me to spin it around to easily work on both sides of a board. You can also 3D print these. But it’s also handy to have some alligator clip bendy arms to hold wires onto the board while you solder them, some magnetic-base gooseneck arms should sit on the base of most PCB vices.>>2965211Actually for digital stuff, instead of current limiting, I think you’re often better off with overcurrent shutoff. With a manual reset button to enable the output(s) again. It wouldn’t need to be continually adjustable, having a few settings from 50mA up to 5A would probably be enough. Ideally if any rail goes over its threshold, all rails would shut off. Seems like a simple project to make as a front-end to a spare ATX power supply, though maybe that’s overkill. You get +/-12V that you could use for analogue circuitry, but that negative rail is very low current and it might be kinda noisy.
>>2965199What for? If it’s load testing, you want a high power CC/CV supply, and noise doesn’t matter so SMPS is fine. If it’s digital electronics, then you’d probably be fine with fixed rails and with relatively low power draw. If it’s for analogue electronics, you’d want something split-rail and low-noise, so a multi-tap transformer with a conventional linear regulator array. If you need low-noise and high-power with continuously adjustable voltage and/or current, that’s when you look towards what I call autoranging-transformer linear supplies, they’re big and heavy compared to switching supplies for the same power output. Your picture there is probably such a supply. They might also be harder to kill.Fried a switching supply the other day, I was putting it in series with another supply to get more voltage and wanted to test the short circuit current, but there was no internal protection diode. Smoke.
>>2965211>>2965216>>2965219Just go with Korad KA600
>>2965177When would you ever need such a small ferrite inductor? Ferrites are only good up to a few MHz, at which 120nH gives you just a few ohms. The open core design compared to thin film inductors is also probably an issue.
I cant tin my soldering iron
>>2965239You have to do a few things to prolong their life. First, use RMA flux and 60/40 or 63/37 solder. Second, don't use the tip to pry or gouge. Its only purpose is to get things hot. Third, temp control. Fourth, when you're finished soldering, clean the tip and load it with a blob of solder to protect it from oxidizing.
>>2965242Another thing is keeping the tip clean while you work. A very slightly dampened sponge and/or brass wool works well. Some people will bark at you for suggesting a damp sponge because it thermally stresses the tip, but you don't need to use it every time you make a joint.
>>2964845On this blown variac, can I do the following solderjob without causing too much of an issue besides a dead spot on the knob? I'd also un-short/trim back the clearly shorted windings in the middle.
>>2965239Wipe the tip off with a facial/toilet tissue while it's hot. Does it look white and shiny? Does it look like the plating has flaked off? Photos.>>2965249If that's the winding direction, yes. But you may want to skip a winding and do the bodge elsewhere if that's where the wiper runs across.
>>2965249>without causing too much of an issue a better idea is to short it all as shown in yellow- you wont get a dead spot, causing harmful voltage spikes, just an invariable spot- you're out of the way of the brush or slider, thus preventing harm to it
>>2965219Good advice.Also, I’m finding a variac more and more useful.For old wall-warts and other linear power supplies with transformers in them, you can adjust the output voltage to anything you want.The things are robust as hell, and so sometimes you just want AC. They’re also great for fine-tuning mains powered things like fans and soldering iron wattage.I think, in retrospect, a variac should be one of the first things you should get when entering into this hobby.
>>2965238It's hard to appreciate weird niche components until you really really need one
>>2965269They’re big and heavy, and quite expensive if you get them new. Either expensive from a local shop or expensive to ship from an e-commerce vendor due to the weight.For 99% of use cases you can use a TRIAC dimmer, a multi-tap transformer or two, or an adjustable output DC supply. All together those will be cheaper and lighter. Only for sketchy high power AC loads might you need one, like tesla coils or vacuum tube circuits.
>>2965263You'd also need to sever the two remaining wires, else you'd get some shorted windings. And I don't know how well the wiper will slide across those cut windings. You could cut across the yellow lines (and solder them at the cut ends), but then solder a piece of copper flat-bar to one side to be a nice smooth thing for the wiper to slide across.On this topic, don't the wipers in these things intrinsically contact multiple windings at once, hence making a few shorted windings at any one time?Actually I just looked this up:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KkXW0ouTkNwApparently they do and it's not too significant. In the comments Mike's Electric Stuff is mentioning how a higher power variac had deliberately significant resistance across the carbon brush to minimise the shorted winding current.
>>2965318>also need to sever the two remaining wiresau contraire, mon frèredoing so would cause an open circuit and the *whole* thing would stop working correctly
>>2965331Well you have to keep one connection around the transformer, but I was thinking it would be better to be at one end. If you use one of the middle windings as the connection then break the other to stop from creating a shorted winding.It might actually be worth peeling the broken wires out of the gungy lacquer on the top and side and soldering on a solid-core bodge wire for each winding. Doesn't matter if it's bulky and ugly over there, so long as it's nice and smooth where the wiper goes.
>>2965177Combine it with the world's smallest microcontroller, world's smallest diode and world's smallest transistor to create the world's smallest switch mode power supply.
How do I keep potentiometers from sliding around if they don't have the little tabs on them? Glue? I tried lock washers once and it didn't even work
>>2965341by filing out an oblong hole if the threaded shaft has flats on it, or gluing a bracket flush to the back of the panel if the potentiometer body isn't roundhard to imagine any pot lacks a locking feature, unless it's strictly designed to be pcb mounted
>>2965198>>2965198I got 4 and its ass. The light is very dim. When I put my iron in the holder, the tip hits the plastic and melts it. The attachment to the main support is always wobbly. The arms are fixed length apart so its hard to get the correct position, and there's only 2 of them.Pony up some extra cash to get either 1 or 2. Idk how 3 works.
i want to get my dad a soldering iron for christmas, his hobby is repairing old radios, a couple years ago I got him an ersa 0920BD i think, he said it worked well but he somehow bricked the tip.you guys got any recommendations
Retard coming through, new to building shit. Been working on a gps based gokart racing datalogger for a while and now stole this circuit from an Amazon tachometer for RPM loggingIt works, works great, just no fucking idea howSo you wrap a wire around the ignition coil 3-5 times, and the other end is placed near the antenna (little 5x5mm piece of steel)is a half loop/horseshoe configuration How the fuck does this work
>>2965374>How the fuck does this workInduction.
>>2965198I use blue painter's tape to hold things to the desk
>>2965374fucking magnets
>>2965374common-emitter amplifier. wrapping the wire around the coil "inductively couples" the two, essentially creating a transformer.
>>2965392get out of here with your learns
This is CNC controller anon again, I'm trying to wire up an emergency stop switch with this circuit I came up with and I'm having problems. The controller board inputs are all logic low, they get a signal when you short them to ground so I thought I could use a transistor to short the input pin when the switch is on. BUT when this is hooked up the control board is always reading an input in both the on and off position... and I'm pretty sure my transistor is fried, I'm reading 80kOhm between base and emitter and 14MOhm between collector and emitter. So I have some questions:1. Would this circuit work if the transistor was ok or do I need a 'pull down' resistor?2. Did this circuit fry the transistor or was it likely damaged from before?3. Should I be using an entirely different circuit?
>>2965428What if I added a 10k or higher resistor between +5V and the collector?
>>2965356I am going to ignore what worked well and recommend you temperature regulated irons:If brands don’t matter, anything between:>Yihua 928D III>KSGER T12>Aixun T3AIf brands do matter:>Hakko FX600 series, Weller W61, Goot PX-335/PX-201>Hakko FX888D or equivalent, we’re getting into pricy town compared to your first giftIf gimmicky irons are fine:>Pine64 Pinecil + power supply>Miniware TS1M T245 + power supply>Ifixit FixHubGood luck>>2965428When you say the control board is always receiving an input, do you mean it’s always being pulled down, or it’s never being pulled down?If never, it may be that the saturation voltage of your BJT is higher than the threshold voltage for a logical low. A logic MOSFET like a 2N7000 should avoid this issue. A dodgy transistor could also cause this, since the control board’s pin works by sourcing current. It’s also feasible that a 10k base resistor is too high, but probably not.If it’s always getting pulled down, then definitely a dodgy transistor. A pull-down resistor shouldn’t be necessary for a BJT’s base, unless the relay board logic input is sourcing current somehow.Resistance measurements are useless for non-ohmic devices like transistors and diodes, you’re better off measuring voltages while it’s turned on. Especially the base-emitter and collector-emitter voltages in both switch states.You could simplify the circuit by having a switch that pulls either control board’s pin pin or relay board to 0V, with a pull-up resistor on the relay board, and LEDs up to 5V from each. Maybe a diode on the control board’s input too if it’s not able to handle 5V.
>>2965356Also can you not just buy him some replacement tips for his existing iron? Then the main gift could be a desoldering iron like a Yihua 929D 3, they’re handy for repairs.
>>2965456you can't easily buy replacements for that iron where we live>>2965452ok thank I'll look into these
>>2965356get at least two tips for him instead of a new iron...and every time he fucks one just order anotherthis fag is right >>2965456 a desoldering iron its really nice to have
I'd like to DIY an IR blaster from a kit. I have a bunch of electronics around the place that use remotes and, honestly, most of the remotes suck. Some take coin batteries and have shit range. Others are just annoying to track down. I'd like one to rule them all. Something like the Flipper Zero is overkill. I don't want to spend $200 on it as I just need IR.My phone does not have a built in IR blaster and I don't want to use my phone to control it. I can solder but I am not a programmer. Is there anything that fits my needs?
>>2965476I looked into this a while back and the IRremote library for arduino is compatible with every protocol under the sun, and it can both receive and transmit these. In the example codes that come with the library, there's sketches to record IR signals and send them to your computer over the USB serial connection. But if you want to make it as good as you posibly can, personally I'd use an ESP32 to host a local web interface, allowing you to connect to its IP with your (phone) web browser and have a convenient UI without something else to hold. It could also be much easier to customise, for adding new remote signals without having to add new buttons or whatever. This also frees you up to have a powerful blaster plugged into wall power.See projects like these:https://iot-kmutnb.github.io/blogs/mini-projects/esp32_ir_remote/https://github.com/e-tinkers/esp32_ir_remote
>>2965452Those are quite outdated recommendations.Sequre S99 - around 30 bucks on aliexpress/banggood/ ...original JBC C245 tip with 2.5 Ohms for 150W - ebay, around 20 bucks https://www.ebay.de/itm/312729462360cheap tips from china have 5Ohms, it will "only" do 75W with those150W USB-C power supply of your choice>>2965460>you can't easily buy replacements for that iron where we liveYou realise you can order stuff online? Are you Amish or something?
>>2965229>30V>5A>90 bucksyeah nah thx.
>>2965452I replaced the transistor and added a 10k 'pull up' resistor from 5V to the collector and it works now.
>>2965476>>2965480The M5Stack Cardputer looks like a good candidate. For $30 it has a built in IR blaster as well as a ton of other stuff.
>>2965345They know everyone breaks the tab off anyway so they stopped making it like that.I'm currently trying to get the thinnest double sided tape I can find and then cut circles out of it. 7mm hole surrounded by a mm or two of adhesive would work perfectly.
>>2965520>>2965345forgot picture. I guess I could switch to those mini pcb pots but they cost more and don't have solder lugs
>>2965483Yeah, I guess T245 USB C irons are probably a better recommendation than the Pinecil, but no IronOS, no schematic, >cheap tips from china have 5Ohms, it will "only" do 75W with thoseI have limited experience to the contrary buying standalone chinky T245 tips, but I agree that buying name-brand tips is probably the way to go unless you can confirm what you're buying from a sufficiently transparent vendor.But you might actually be better off with 5 ohm tips. Those USB C power supplies max out at 5A from what I've seen, so a 28V 140W supply is better matched to a 5 ohm tip than a 2.5 ohm tip. In both cases you'd have to PWM the element to lower the average current to 5A, but a 5 ohm tip would be 125W, while a 2.5 ohm tip would be only 62.5W. It would be better if instead of PWM it told the PD supply to adjust down the voltage, I don't know to what extent USB C irons use PPS.The 2.5 ohm tips are better for getting the full 200W out of a 24V supply.>>2965488It's a linear supply, they'll always be more expensive than a switched-mode one. Even the chinky linear supplies only go down to $65 or so. Many consider the low noise and robustness of them to be worth the price, though I think you don't often need your CC/CV load-testing supply to be the same as your low-noise supply, particularly if you want split-rails.>>2965499For $3 you get an ESP8266 module with an IR LED on it>>2965522The flat sides of the metal piece atop the FR2 board is something you could make a locking feature out of. Same for the protruding flat sides of the FR2 board itself.
Why on earth does adafruit resell ws2812 LEDs but call them "neopixels"Seems like pic related
>>2965577She can't justify the jewish price gouging without adding rainbow faggotry to the description and advertising it to the weirdos on Hack-a-dong.
>>2965531>For $3 you get an ESP8266 module with an IR LED on itThat would require they program stuff for it, right?>>2965577This: >>2965581 They overcharge for everything. I made the mistake of buying an analog joystick from them for $20 just to find out its the same model that everyone else sells for $5-$7.
>>2965581>>2965583It steams my hams how much they profit from keeping hobbyists ignorant. So much of what they sell has insane markup and it's marketed in the most cringe, irritating way.But I guess it works.
>>2965392That part I understand, I don't entirely understand how its tripping the transistor to dump the line
>>2965593>I don't entirely understandit's not magic, it's magnetism, which is higher than magicthe ignition coil gets pulses of current, each one creating a magnetic field the added winding captures said fieldplacing a metal antenna next to the winding captures some of that field, producing a voltagenegative portion of these pulses are killed off by D1positive portions turn on the Q1
>>2964959Is he still available somewhere? I wanted to buy him but I can't find it anywhere probably because adafruit discontinued making them
Anyone got any recs for a cheapo microscope for SMD soldering?
>>2965621You want a binocular one for depth perception.I recently bought a FYSCOPE 3.5x-90x head of ali for 109€ on sale.https://de.aliexpress.com/item/32949932295.htmlThe head with focus length adjustment was 31€ on sale.https://de.aliexpress.com/item/1005005117568194.htmlI've build the base myself, it's just a 32mm pipe in a base plate and I didn't see any I liked for a reasonable price.You still need a ring light to clamp to it, I bought a polarizing one but it doesn't polarize, so cannot recommend the one I got.Polarizing is nice for getting far superior contrast, non-polarized sucks.Idk if that's "cheap" enough for you but that's as cheap as I've found for something that has no latency and depth perception which both seems quite important.
>>2965638>binocular one for depth perceptiontrash. you're bent over inhaling solder fumes trying to see shit through some tiny tubes.much better to put it on a screen.
>>2965583>>2965592I'm absolutely certain that a portion of that money goes to political terrorist orgs like BLM and antifa.
>>2965667No doubt, just look at their nail paint alone in their promo videos
>>2965638Not him, but that’s four times what I spent on my soldering station. I think binocular microscopes are the way to go for soldering with them because of the lack of latency (along with a fume extractor), while digital systems are at least more cost effective for inspection and allow you to take nice macro photos. What zoom levels are you finding useful? 90 seems kinda overkill.I’ve been wanting to make a digital microscope moving arm, with a lamp and fume extracting duct built in, and some diy rotatable polarised discs for the light and microscope. But I suspect I’d need the same kind of rigid mount for the microscope camera as your optical system, as opposed to a more mobile swinging arm like I’d want for a lamp. A wider depth of field isn't really an option at such extreme zoom levels. But I guess it is an option to try to make a highly rigid locking articulated arm, so long as it has a few mm of fine focal adjustment for the microscope itself. Maybe counterweights too.
>>2965692>Maybe counterweights too.It would be cooler if it was stabilized with a gyroscope.
>>2965693Gyro would work for rotational stability, but that's easy to do with rigid mounting on linear guide rails. It's more the linear stabilisation that's important. And if you're fighting against gravity with a gyro on a cantilever, you need one of those active gyro mechanisms that measures the precessive force and uses that connected to a motor.
>>2965646much better to not be poor.
Is the Digilent 410-380 microSD Card Slot compatible with the ESP32 S3? The supply voltage is indicated as a range from 2.7 V to 3.6 V. I'm pretty new to electronics, so I have the need to ask before buying a unit (link for details: https://mou.sr/4qhBqdy)
>>2965638>>2965646>>2965744>>2965621Frens, I finally acquired it! Got back home like an hour ago. The microscope is fucking mint and it's exactly the kind I wanted: AmScope Simul-Focal Stereo.It's used but like new. No dents, no nicks no flaws of any kind. The stand is the upgraded extra heavy-duty kind and not the one that it comes with.Bought it off a guy who's a legit motherboard repair guy! Self-employed, been doing it for over 30 years. He only deals with computer stores and companies and not regular customers. Super cool dude. We talked for like an hour about electronics and business. He specializes in Macs because that's where the money is but he has worked on many laptops.Dude ended up gifting me a really decent soldering iron with a shitton of tips and about a dozen Mac motherboards to practice on. Some even work fully. Oh, and he gave me an LED light that I just found out that it's expensive af.Anyway, an amazing purchase and a super new fren contact acquired. It's better than Christmas.Anyway, what else do I need? Any suggestions/tips? It's my first microscope. Never used one before (I worked with a shitty USB cam).
>>2965745it appears to be a passive adapter so it should cause any issues.>>2965748very nice anon. i use a trinocular amscope at work and its amazing.>what else do I need?what else do you have? what else are you trying to do?a fume extractor would be nice, if you dont have one.
>>2965749thank you for your input, anon
>>2965749>>2965750shouldnt*, in case it wasnt obvious
>>2965751I was aware, no worries
>>2965749>very nice anon. i use a trinocular amscope at work and its amazing.I've never used a microscope before. Never even looked through it in person. It's about 100x better than a digital one. You can actually have a depth perception.>what else do you have? what else are you trying to do?Repair laptops and gaming consoles.>a fume extractor would be nice, if you dont have one.Yeah, I don't have one of those. I saw one guy make one from stuff at the hardware store. Might go with that for the time being.Anyway, pic relates in the soldering iron he gifted me. It's brand new and came with two dozen tips and solder wire.
>>2965755>Repair laptops and gaming consoles.fume extractor, hot air station, flux, wick, gold wool, uh... a multimeter probably. oh, and copper/aluminum tape for blocking hot air. and stencils + solder paste if you plan on doing reballing.>Anyway, pic relates in the soldering iron he gifted me. It's brand new and came with two dozen tips and solder wire.find the tip that looks like pic rel. its called a "bevel" or "mini-wave" tip. its the best tip. use only it.
>>2965762>fume extractor, hot air station, flux, wick, gold wool, uh... a multimeter probably. oh, and copper/aluminum tape for blocking hot air. and stencils + solder paste if you plan on doing reballing.Thanks. Took notes. Will grab all of these things. Any recommendation on which flux to get?>find the tip that looks like pic rel. its called a "bevel" or "mini-wave" tip. its the best tip. use only it.Found it! He gave me like 5-6 of that type in various sizes. It has to be his fav tip or something. I basically have a whole line of Mechanic tips now.I've always used the type that looks like a flathead screwdriver... it came with an old soldering iron that I have and never changed it for something better.
