What should I use for diy kitchen backing that's better than this peal and stick shit that's all over amazon? Hopefully some product exists that I'm missing that's easier than all the youtube tile suggestions involving stripping the paint and using grout/adhesives and leveling nightmares too. I've never tiled a kitchen backing but I'm sick of mine and all these seem like they fall off people's walls in a week and look like rotten ass irl compared to the sales pics.
I should note I'm most comfortable using wood. Can I avoid burning my house down if I cut a bunch of uniform strips and maybe coat them with a fire resistant lacquer? That way I could make nice looking larger panels to fit and use a couple screws instead of blasting the wall with glue after inhaling sanded paint dust. I fully admit that might be retarded, out of my depth with kitchen backing concerns. I just historically mess up adhesive projects at an appauling rate compared to woodworking
>>2966365>peal
>>2966365I used peel and stick tiles in my kitchen but a higher quality than chinese products. The brand is Smart Tiles. It's made in Canada.
mastic and tileGet angle grinder pilled. You can make your own wet saw with a sponge. Tile blades are safe to the touch.
>>2966365Sheet metal worked for me
I put some osb on the kitchen wall and glued actual tiles on there.No prep work needed and its easy to remove without messing up the wall.
>>2966717>Fire marshal has entered the chat
>>2966365Mosaic of old cd cases
>>2966481Or get a cheap pump from Amazon and a bucket from Harbor Freight.OP, I did my outdoor kitchen without knowing much about wall tiling, but if I were to have something done differently it would be to get a nice stacked manufactured stone and some Locktite construction adhesive (Seka sags too much and versabond is a pain if you're just starting out. Just be aware that when it dries, construction adhesive will stay for the long haul so if you plan on removing it later I suggest fastening some wire mesh to give the glue something to stick to and keep you from removing the drywall when it's time to remodel again.Hard to say what you should do with little context like budget or how your house looks, but since I am a cheapskate, I just got a cheap square and got good with mitering and coping with an angle grinder I borrowed from a buddy. Or you can get manufactured stone corners.
>>2966365I guess if you're a cheap fuck with no actual DIY skills the peel and stick will work. Just know in your own fucked up mind that it's not real tile and just cheap flammable plastic. If that makes you feel good at night with your fake as fuck tiles then so be it. We now all know you don't have the skills to do it properly so maybe you should get the fuck out of /DIY then since you are too retarded to be here in the first place.
>>2966366>fire resistant >lacquerOMG FLMAO
>>2966365Just do the backsplash the right way and learn. I got a 7” wet tile saw for <$100, plus some diamond blades for the angle grinder and it’s nice to be able to do tile myself.Protip- if the corner of the wall is uneven and you need to mud it and shit before putting primer + tile up, make sure the mud is 100% dry otherwise you will set yourself back another 2-3 days like my dumbass.
>>2966997It turned out at least as good as an alcoholic mexican tile guy would’ve done
>>2966864>We now all know you don't have the skills to do it properly so maybe you should get the fuck out of /DIYSo, you were born knowing how to do everything you now know how to do?
>>2966864You sound like a dickhead lol
>>2966997Looks good tripscum. Matching grout is always the choice. Penny tiles and mesh are harder than normal pieces. I've done a number show showers and splashes with a $70 shitter wet saw and a grinder. Dedicated sliding tile saws are much better, but most of the battle is generally correcting the customer's fouled up walls, waterproofing, fucked up shower pan. I've lost track of the times I've walked in on showers getting throw up with mastic. If the customer is a dick, I don't say a thing.The last shower door opening I saw was 23 7/8" at the floor and 24 7/16" at 6ft.
>>2967827Appreciate it bruvThe one other thing I ran into was the gap between the cabinet and countertops being like 1/2” difference from one side of the wall to the other. But luckily I started at the bottom and you would have to look up real hard to the bottom of the cabinets along the entire length of the wall to see it. Caulk is also a lifesaver for those situations.Also I was too lazy to google it, but what does one normally do behind the stove at the bottom of those backsplashes to keep everything in line? I ended up cutting a 1x2 just right to wedge between the countertop to hold the tiles up and keep the spacing right and it worked well enough, then yanked it and caulked after the ground and everything was dry.
>>2966998happy Easter anon
>>2968302I laser in all my kitchens to get island countertops shooting straight across all the others. Then I can use an 18 or 20" box to mindlessly set all the uppers (+1.25" for ct). I only have to level once rather than moving the stick around all day. Most of the time I see tilers just pin up a 1x2. There's no point using tile trim behind the stove unless they're paying like a king.
>>2966864Please go somewhere else. What a toolbag
>>2966998Wicked kitchen aid vro. Im mirin
>>2966365Tile isn't that hard
>>2969267but I'm a fucking triple retard
Dear tile masters, I posted a tile question in the SQTDDTOT.>>2971022didn't want to hijack OP's thread.
what are the tile layers?>drywall>mud>steel mesh>tileDid I get that right?How do you space the tile?
>>2966365Bruh grout isn’t that hard.You can do it right or you can do it twice.
>>2966998I hate tiny tiles because of autism but this is clean as fuck. Good job.
bump for tiles
