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Scanner Bros how do I make this work?

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funni brim

3rd for this hobby is mostly people making unique forms of plastic waste

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>>2970384
unless you know cad, then it's making multiple iterations of plastic waste.

>>2970313
Well you can't configure custom klipper macros, nor custom I/O pins. If you were using a sharpie to draw atop supports you'd need to be able to extend the marker with a little solenoid actuator, but the only existing outputs you could use are being used by fans, preventing you from using one fan in the same print as you're using the marker. With an open printer, you just run a wire from a random plug on the board and tell the firmware how to use it. If you changed extruder, I don't know if you'd be able to change the extrusion ratio. If you added a larger bed and moved the limit-switches, I doubt you'd be able to tell it that it can move in a larger volume by 5 or 10mm. If you added a CPAP or other bulky extruder attatchment, I doubt you'd be able to tell it that it can't go past a certain height.

Also their cloud bullshit just ruined some printers by pushing missing print queues in the middle of the night, and they started pulling some bullshit to prevent you from using Orca but rolled it back due to backlash. If you own what you bought and paid for, you should be in charge of what software runs on it.

>>2970384
Most hobbies produce a lot of waste.

>>2970396
why do you say that? 3dp also generates a ton of microplastics

>>2970269
I meant for the printer itself. It doesn't feel super cheap but it's clearly not a premium product. You'll notice a lot of gaps and wobbles. Maybe it's just the enclosure, maybe more mechanical parts are equally shoddy, I have no idea. Just something to think about when it comes to reliability

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So what's the reason to buy A1 over P1S?
I already have an A1 mini and it's great, I bought it to print wargaming scenery and household utility goods like bins, clamps, organisers etc.
I want to buy a second printer because a single printer is simply not fast enough for me considering some of the terrain pieces take 15-20 hours to print and the plate being smol doesn't help. I was initially thinking about getting A1 so I can use the same hotends for both but other than that and the price, I really don't see any reason to grab it over P1S. Now that A1 is confirmed to come with an extra feature of being a glorified $300 fire-starter it looks even less attractive.
Am I missing something here? Is P1S having any downsides or issues that should make me re-consider getting it and buying A1 instead?

>>2970384
That is for our grandsons to worry about

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I have to model an STL because I need this 59.5mm part to be 62.5mm while retaining a couple of fixed size holes.

Can I get away with modelling the spokes as two arcs with tangent constraints?
Or should I spend ten hours studying b-splines to do it properly?
I gave them a go to see if they were easy to use but clearly they're not amenable to vibe-based CAD.

The part is an axle for a spool roller for 3kg rolls of sunlu, which are too heavy for my printer and don't fit in the sunlu roller box I bought for the express purpose.

>>2970415
Does it really need to be so precise? You're scaling it up by only 5%, and its only ~60mm in diameter. If you were scaling down I'd understand the issue, but for such a small part on a spool holder who cares if its a little loose.

>>2970415
honestly anon, when i need to do stuff like that i usually just scale up the entire thing, then just re-shrink the holes instead

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>>2970417
>then just re-shrink the holes instead
How would I do that?

I use Cura and FreeCAD, I have Blender too but I'm even more of a noob with that than FreeCAD.

>>2970416
>Does it really need to be so precise?
Two of the holes take M3 screws so they need to be pretty precise. They're received in heatsets inserted into a peg that goes in the central hole.

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>>2970415
What you want to do can be easily done in blender by scaling the STL file and then shrinking the faces of the center hole, this will cause the Z axis to go all wonky so you make it flat again by selecting the sides, pressing S, Z and 0 so they all lie in the same plane and then you edit the Z scale to return it to the original dimensions.

It's too complicated to explain fully and blender is like untangling a ball of string if you have no background in polygonal modelling, but once you know it something like this becomes a 2 minute job.

>>2970418
Ah, I can see what you mean now. You probably would have to model it from scratch and redo all those bools/subtractions for the proper screw holes. The spokes themselves likely don't need to be precise to the original shape so long as they are radially symmetrical.

>>2970418
usually i use fusion 360, make a sketch of the hole the size i need, and a bigger circle that fills the enlarged hole, then extrude the sleve out and merge it with the main STL.

failing that, just make a solid block in your cad of choice, put it over the hole, and cut a hole out of it.

>>2970421
>You probably would have to model it from scratch
I figured. Hence the sketching.

>redo all those bools/subtractions for the proper screw holes
Yeah, the modelling is pretty easy, I just don't grok B-splines, hence the question in >>2970415

The initial sketch isn't what I'll actually extrude, it's more of a master plan and I'll copy it, cut it down to the central shaft, put the peg hole in it, add the spokes then add the two screw holes...all as separate operations.

>>2970418
new dr strange movie going cyberpunk

>>2970421
>redo all those bools/subtractions for the proper screw holes
FreeCAD has a fasteners plugin, haven't used it but it's supposed to be pretty straightforward to instantiate any standard screw and a hole for it.
That part should be even easier.

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>>2970384
Yes

Gentlemen, I have a problem. I've got a Mendel90 upgraded over the years. Usually it prints fine. Recently I've had a problem though, that is the Z-axis stops working halfway through the print. It doesn't seem to be the stepper, which I had suspected would get hot, but it does not. After a Klipper update and some light lubrication of the spindles it printed a bit more, for an hour or so before the problem occurred again?

I think I'll just move the Z-axis up and down until it stops and see what happens.

Freaking weird and annoying tbqh. Anybody ever had similar problem?

>>2970432
I solved the issue, was a connection at a cable that came loose to the Z-Axis stepper motor, but only partially. Let's hope it works after reconnecting it properly.

Man, the difference between PLA and PETG for bed adhesion is crazy.

I have serious trouble getting PLA prints off my bed, I've crushed prints by trying to force them off.
PETG barely adheres at all and once slid right off because it's a bed slinger, and I'm getting some print failures from the bed heater tripping some internal alarm.

>>2970449
I have not have such issues since I got one of those PEI plates. With heated bed PLA gets off easy after cooling, and PETG is awful to remove hot or cold.

>>2970449
You need a different build surface, I got a mech solutions ltd build surface years ago and it works great for PLA and PETG. Just check reviews on amazon of whatever you're ordering.

A friends daughter has invited me to her birthday party, she is turning 5 in a couple of days.

The friend has asked me to 3d print something to on bicycle handlebars so i expect that she is getting a bicycle.

Ive got a Creality Hi with the filament changer and rolls of black, gray, red and purple PLA.

I dont generally interact with kids so what would be a good print?

Whatever print doesnt have to be useful but i figure that it at least should have some sort of fun(ction) so its not just a static decoration.

An initial though was something along the lines of those dashboard hula dancers or a bobble head but that might distract and thereby be unsafe which is less than optimal.

>>2970413
Why would you buy P1S if there is P2S?

>>2970492
baseball card spoke holder

>>2970425
If you have an STL that you want to rescale while keeping the hole dimensions constant, I would use Form Z. It has some nice direct modeling tools.

Pick tool at the point topology level, select all but the holes to not be scaled (wireframe view to see everything).

Independent scale, scale X and Y but not Z.

>>2970492
horn.
flashlight mount
horse head
streamer mount (make sure to cut them short so they dont get into the wheel or any moving part)
pinwheel
some high vis reflector

just make sure you make the mounts adjustable, 2 parts connected with a screw, or go try hard with adjustable bi-stable hinges

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>>2970492
Flashlight mount and accompanying flashlight.
Even better if you make it one of the usb-c rechargeable ones.
You're going to need the handle bar diameter.
There's also picrel.
https://www.thingiverse.com/tag:handlebar

>>2970493
Price. Perhaps I will sell my A1 Mini in the future and buy P2S on discount.

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>>2970384
I'm at a point where I'm finally getting around to printing stupid shit.
>Tfw tried to print springs out of GF25ABS
I don't think I even have petg in the house.

Maybe you guys would know about this.

Got a 12v centrifugal fan, glass fiber reinforced plastic that's shattered, need to repair the plastic. Melt it back together, maybe lay some reinforcement into it.

Would order a new one but it's part of s large assembly there's only sold as a single unit and it's obsolete. And it's taken out a very expensive and productive machine so the repair only need to hold until the new part arrives.

>>2970599
Can't you just get another 12V centrifugal fan?
Does it have to fit in a very specific location?
Printed blades and fans are an absolute pain, repairing them is even worse.
What is the part/complete assembly?

>>2970599
Use glue and then stengthen with fiber glass layup.

>>2970605
Would the fiberglass hold at 480 degrees f?

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Is this the best way to support this chair? please help

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Hey so I broke my Ender 3 fan so I ordered a new one.

The replacement video instructions were really complicated and one of the comments said I should just cut the wires on the old fan and cut the wires on the new fan and twist them together.

I did that and put electrical tape on them but the tape keeps falling off.

I really don't want to start a fire or anything. I have no electrical experience.

Is there something besides electrical tape I can use to reliably keep the red and black wires apart while the old and new wires stay twisted together?

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>>2970676
Yeah, buy some shrink wrap (Or on amazon as "Industrial Heat-Shrink Tubing for Wires" or something like that).
It's a little tube you cover the spliced wires with. You apply heat to the tubing, it shrinks down to fit over the wires and covers them.
It says you need a heatgun, but can use a hair drier, or a lighter.

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>>2970676
I used solder and heatshrink

>>2970677
>>2970678
Okay thank you I'll try this tonight.

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>>2970676
if you have no idea how to solder and want decent connection you can also try heat shrink solder tubes.

>>2970676
>>2970677
Get some 1:3 shrink, not 1:2. Let's you do a lot more connectors later on.

>>2970415
Why don't you use a polar pattern?

>>2970676
jesus, just buy some butt terminal crimps

>>2970654
That's a question for the resin, not the fiberglass

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I've made a truly hideous thing.
but it seems to work just fine.
>>2970676
I'd solder and heatshrink, but the proper recommended fix for wiring that moves about is crimps. At the very least electrical tape the red wire so that it doesn't ground on something stupid.

>>2970698
What material did you use? Neat that the case has slots for the threaded inserters, but I'd like one that also has slots for the wide SMD soldering blades that screw onto the same tips. I like how the cable is stored.

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>>2970703
It's a pinecil, I just haven't bothered finding the tips that are scattered all over the office though i rarely use more than just the conical that came with it. The slots for them are here.
The outer casing is the last of two qidi abs-gf25 spools I had doing nothing useful but absorb moisture, hence the purle-green. The insert is uh, some plain turd green abs from whomever, as are the red things.
https://www.printables.com/model/827409

>>2970709
Ah, I thought that TPU could be good for the insert, but that might make it need redesigning. 72D TPU/PA might be good for the outer case, though I think it's kinda bad for creepage so those clips might deform it over time. Creep resistance really is the main feature I'm looking for in a filament, if you need impact resistance you can always just add TPU bits around the outside.

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>>2970710
>72D
unironically not a bad application for it. I'm just trying to clear out space and use up filament ends.
>Creeping
I've had a 500+lb bmw on casters made of this and it seemed fine. Genuinely impressive stuff, just didn't have enough to make the outer casing out of/didn't think of that first.

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>>2970712
wrong image.
100% infill though.

Not a single hardware store had proper fiberglass, kevlar or even JB heat resistant.
Again and again, I just don't know what the fuck other tradesmen are doing. They can't work out what I'm doing either
>hur dur just order parts
Using Amazon is not a trade skill, fixing things is our job ffs

>>2970727
going to a "hardware store" is the problem.
my tradie mate never goes to bunnings, we go to 4 different specialty stores in the warehouse and whorehouse district and get adhesives from a pool store, metal from a vintage car bodyworks fabricators (they sell offcuts for just over what the scrap metal guy pays them) and shit like fiberglass from a boat builders.
the trade skill is knowing where to go to get stuff, since SOMEONE is already ordering what you need in bulk for themselves. as well as knowing who at that shop you need to befriend to get heads up before they place a huge order on a particular size of aluminium extrusion, so you can add your pitiful 20m to their literal half ton order (illuminated sign makers are a great source of 3d printer parts.).

I have a Biqu B1 and recently when trying to change the bowden tube I accidentally unplugged usb C cord while the printer was on.

I've tried printing today and the filament was coming out of the printer at 180 C in a constant stream, curling up and coming out unevenly. Prior to me changing the Bowden tube, filament would never extrude out unless I was actively extruding it with the "purge more" function, even at 180 C.

When I tried printing something earlier it was oozing out constantly as the hotend was heating up. It took longer to heat up than it normally does I'm pretty sure.

It was oozing up really bad, and all the sudden the hot end started smoking and I could smell something burning, so I shut it off immediately.

When googling for this I found something saying that if you unplug the USB C while the printer's on it can cause some internals to fry. I'm not sure if that's what happened or not. I still get temperature readings on my machine, but I guess I don't know if they're accurate.

Is the smoking / burning from an issue related to my nozzle, the changed Bowden Tube, or are my internals fried?

Sorry if this is a lot. I'd love some direction here. I don't know what I'm doing and I don't want to cause a fire or make things worse.

>>2970756
After careful thought I have come to the conclusion that your temperature probe might be fucked. Consider this:
1. You're oozing at "180C", but physically that should not happen (you have experimental data that it didn't beforehand)
2. "It was oozing up really bad, and all the sudden the hot end started smoking and I could smell something burning, so I shut it off immediately."
3. It took longer to heat up than it normally does I'm pretty sure

Sounds like the temperature sensor is fucked, not giving accurate readings. That's why it takes longer to heat up. It heats maybe to 230 or more, but gives back the value of 180. Which would pretty much explain everything.
There is a possibility that the configuration values for the thermometer have been deleted during your accident, in that case you'd have to find out what thermometer element you have and manually change into firmware. Otherwise, if hardware defect, exchange thermometer probe.

>>2970763
It might also be the internals, after some more thought, but I think you should exchange temperature probe first and see if the issue still occurs. If it does you'll need new internals

>>2970342
IceSL is missing in the autistic slicer category

>>2970676
>I did that and put electrical tape on them but the tape keeps falling off.
You need better tape, that shouldn't happen.
It ought to stick to itself after you've wrapped it around the wire once.

>>2970682
>Why don't you use a polar pattern?
I did, that's an answer to the question of how to multiply the spokes though and I was asking whether I ought to be learning to use B-splines for it or whether I could compensate for a lack of skill and study with a pair of tangent-constrained arcs.

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>>2970492
>The friend has asked me to 3d print something to on bicycle handlebars so i expect that she is getting a bicycle.
>Ive got a Creality Hi with the filament changer and rolls of black, gray, red and purple PLA.
>I dont generally interact with kids so what would be a good print?
In general, anything useful you could put on a bike has a better commercial product for it anyway.
Phone holders, cup holders, light mounts...you name it, it's on amazon and aliexpress and pretty cheap but still better quality than you're going to print.

The only real value you could add would be customisation or if she's into something really weird.
I'd ask your friend what stuff she's into and if he has any particular ideas. You can ask if she's into any particular shows or movie or whatever and try to make something based on them.

There's loads of end caps on STL sites you could customise with her initials or something,

This is kind of cool, you could modify it a bit to put the child's name on it maybe but you'd need to know whether that's a safe thing to do in your society, parents don't everywhere want strangers knowing their child's name. Ask your friend first. Also, the bike might come with girl-coloured grips with tassels or something already, she might prefer the stock option. Maybe ask for a pic of the bike.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:969007

You could also try asking this in a relevant thread on /n/.

There's a million phone holders on the market and some are ok, you probably don't have time to print some and test them, you'd also need to know the size of her phone. Plus you probably don't want children looking at their phone while riding anyway, it's not like she's going to be riding far enough to need GPS anyway and her father probably wouldn't want her to either.

>Order some ASA
>Needs to be dried at 70C+
>Spool it came on isn't tolerant for more than 70C.
So what the fuck do I do?

>>2970839
You dry it at 70, duh

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>>2970839
dry at 69 for N hours.
also, >asa needing to be dried
wat? I thought only the fibered versions of ASA and ABS absorbed moisture.
Can anyone explain ASA to me as a plastic? What advantage does it have over ABS besides the whole UV thing?
t. buy mostly ABS because I can leave it outside for several years without an issue and I can splice spool ends incredibly easily for scrap filament prints.

>>2970841
More UV resistance, also less warping and less odour. Less odour implies the plastic is breaking down less in the nozzle too, but I think strength is pretty similar. Slightly lower temperature resistance though. If it’s not for long-term outdoor uses and your printer has an enclosure setup that doesn’t have an issue with warping ABS, there’s no reason to spend more for ASA.

Would it matter if I fed my external spool through the AMS buffer on my P1S? I'm just trying to work out the cleanest way to use a splitter for my set up with a dryer.

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>>2970841
I figure at some stage I might need to dry it eventually.
I printed a benchy on my P1S with it. Pretty flawless once I added a skirt to it. I think there's a little bit of what looks like bubbling on the top, but I've not had that reoccur yet.

In terms of what I specifically need it for, I was considering making some cable tidy panels for my PC, so I wanted something heat-resistant.

>>2970763
>in that case you'd have to find out what thermometer element you have and manually change into firmware

How would I do this? Sorry if this is a really dumb question, I just don't know what would be involved in this process. Can I simply re-install the firmware, or is there something else I need to do?

>>2970850
Contrary i rather print everything in ASA these days cause why not. The price difference per part is pennies and if it goes to the family, who knows what they do with it.

>>2970861
Are you running Marlin or Klipper (if you don't know the answer is likely Marlin)?

>>2970861
I don't know with commercially available 3D printers. Mine is an amalgamation of bad decisions and modifications that have been done to it over a decade.
>Biqu B1
https://github.com/bigtreetech/BIQU-B1/tree/master/Firmware
You're probably running Marlin.
How to flash it depends on whatever board or electronics the B1 has.

>>2970865
>>2970866
Okay, I've just flashed it but I have to wait a few minutes for the firmware to update I think.

I'll post results after I feed filament through it again and see if it starts smoking again.

So thingiverse is dead, right?
I remember going on there and checking the front page and seeing people's projects. Now it's just 50 different variations of the same shitty ai generated dragon that will create half a spool of plastic waste with an ams.

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>>2970900
wrong image

>>2970900
>>2970901
i mean, yeah printing is now a kids toy machine.
in the past you would struggle with a printer you mostly built to get it to spit out the perfectly shaped object to finish a larger job, where all your other choices, like woodcarving or modeling clay had failed.
now its push button get flexi-rex.
resin printing made people turn modeling from open source into a money making venture, then selling prints made modling FDM parts worth money.
and now AI has removed the barrier of entry that was actual modelling.

>>2970900
>>2970901
And i thought makerworld was AI capitol.. But really, thingiverse has been pretty dead for a while. There was a glimpse of hope when ultimaker took over, but they had already lost too much mindshare by then.

>>2970868
Either it worked, or it didn't work and anon gave up for the day, or it didn't work and anons house burned down :(

>>2970901
I love how these fucks render the dragon as it is being painted in someone's bedroom to bypass the ai tag.
Not that thingiverse has a way to hide ai generated slop.

Is there an easy DIY way to identify which material a print was made from? Even if the test damages or destroys the print?

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>>2970951
Acetone dissolves ABS redily and a little bit of ASA.
Nylon has a density much greater than the others though it would probably be easier to identify by just feel given a printed part's density is nonuniform.
PLA is dissolved by chloroform.
PETG shouldn't exist.
You'd be better off testing the part against the expected properties of the claimed material.
Blends will be a pain to identify.
>easiest
You ask the person that printed to show you the spool it was printed from and test the properties of the part against the claims.
Inb4 a repeat of picrel.
https://hackaday.com/2025/12/10/failed-3d-printed-part-brings-down-small-plane/
pajeets with 3dprinter scamvises nearly killed a man in the UK.

>>2970951
Burn and sniff test, you can buy test kits full of different plastics to compare the smell to. Seriously.

>>2970665
I AM THE STOERM

>>2970939
Sorry for the lack of update.

I think it flashing the firmware worked, but I'm having pretty bad oozing / curling still, but no smoking. So, I think my nozzle is clogged or when I put the bowden tube back on I didn't push it all the way down correctly.

I haven't had time to mess with the printer today because I've been busy with work. :(

>>2971008
Nice. Probably going to have to unclog the nozzle that does sound like something is clogging it.
Problem being if it's burnt stuff it becomes infinity harder to get out. Try heating it up, then waiting until it's 40-50 degrees Celsius and try janking it out, that might work.

Ender 3 V3 SE printer of an acquaintance had an issue that prompted them to upgrade the firmware. After upgrading the firmware on both the mainboard and screen, it tries to move the X axis as part of an initial calibration, but it just judders about. Multiple firmware attempts later, it’s not looking any better. You can try to push the axis while it judders and it kinda moves, but very loudly. Sounds like a stepper driver hardware issue, but maybe changing microstepping might help? Anyone else have juddery motor problems?

>>2971038
For clarification, I plugged it into a different stepper motor into the X motor’s cable and the shaft still just oscillated instead of rotating, so it’s not binding or anything like that. So it’s either firmware, the driver itself, or the signal integrity between the MCU and the driver. The drivers are soldered on with no jumpers to select microstepping. If it’s anything like the V2, there’s no UART comms to each driver either.

Seems like you could get this symtom from a dropped phase though, so maybe the wiring has just failed. I should take it apart and check the connections are well seated and well crimped. Maybe even get the scope out.

>work for a company thats an official distributor of elegoo
>centauri carbon 2 combo arrives in our warehouse in preparation for launch day
>warehouse workers accidentally send them out to four stores before realising it’s meant to be embargoed
>we get fined like $10k if we sell one
Hope the memo got out fast enough.

>>2971095
Yeah, my dad also works at nintendo. It's really tiresome.

Is pla cf really a meme?
I think it might be a meme as an engineering grade material but does it look good enough that it could go on a product unnoticed?

>>2971101
>Is pla cf really a meme?
Yes

>>2971100
More people work for Amazon than for Nintendo.

>>2971101
>pla's benefits are ease of printing and dimensional stability, at cost of being weak and brittle
>cf's benfits are making stuff easier to print and more dimensionally stable, at cost of making it weaker and more brittle
Sometimes I wonder what compelled someone to add CF to PLA, and then start selling it.

>>2971114
Well again i read it makes prints look nicer idk

>>2971115
CF/GF filaments are baisically asbestos that didn't get banned yet. You gotta either clear-coat the parts, or use it for things that won't get handled. Former will make them look ike shit, latter implies something more practica and complex than stealthy articulated dragons.

>>2971118
Just give a good coat of resin.
>abestos
I bet thatll be the narrative

>>2971119
So yes, exactly what I said, coat it. It'll look worse than regular filament.
Both asbestos and carbon fiber are awesome materials, as long as you don't expose humans to the fibers. If asbestos is in your walls as insulation, just don't disturb it and you'll be fine. If CF is in your filament, use it for parts you won't touch often and you'll be fine.

>>2971121
>me with 200, 400 and 800 grit sandpaper about to retard my grandchildren

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>>2971101
It is stiffer than regular pla.
I've been using qidi's and flashforge's pla-cf to print stackable boxes and they work nicely. They'd be too flimsy with many other materials, including an esun pa-cf I had laying around.
>>2971114
The is cf-tpu for some reason.
The reason to add cf to pla is bending modulus. It is genuinely stiffer, though it depends on the manufacturer. I don't have any chloroform to dissolve a sample and check the fiber length on the two manufacturers mentioned above, but considering subhumans with 0.4mm nozzles are complaining about clogs I'd wager it's longer than the carbon fiber dust many include in their filaments.

Whats the best paint for 3d prints?
My acrylics paint is still wet and looks watery

>>2971137
primer until the layer lines are gone, then whatever paint goes with the used primer.
There is no other way, layer lines will fuck up your shit otherwise.

Any 3d scanner phone application recommendations?

>>2970415
>I have to model an STL because I need this 59.5mm part to be 62.5mm while retaining a couple of fixed size holes.
Scale the part and then use CAD or a simple slicer union to fill in and resize the holes.

>>2970492
Ask the parent what bicycle the child will be getting and ideally you get some measurements so whatever you make fits.

I would also ask the parent what things the child likes so you can do something that has like her name and a unicorn or something. Or a water bottle holder or some storage helper that either works with the existing basket or something.

>>2970665
On its left or right side.

>>2971137
Paint pens and glue tubes with glitter.

>>2971137
Might be worth heading down to /tg/ to check out their painting generals. They'll tell you the more expensive miniature paints with their higher density of very fine pigments, will give you a much better result than large Walmart bottles. Army Painter would be a good go-to for cost/quality.

Thin ya paints.

>>2971101
It is unless you either really need the rigidity, or want to use the fibres to prevent warping when annealing. Annealed PLA is good up to 150C, so if you can’t print PC on your open printer but want something heat-resistant it’s a decent choice.

>>2971118
>>2971121
While some caution is certainly warranted with post processing (which is readily acknowledged by everyone), the alarmism about this really irks me because it is entirely conjectural with no evidence ever posted, so comparing it to asbestos with such certainty is frankly histrionic behavior. Fiber infused filaments have been around long enough that there would be case studies or reliable anecdotes or anything other than a single engagement bait youtube video if people were getting asbestos level fucked up by their 3d printers. I would bet that VOCs are the cause of more poor health outcomes than any fiber shedding by a substantial margin.

>>2971197
You might be able to compare it to fibreglass. But asbestos is specifically bad because the fibre sizes are such that they interfere with lung cells. 20% smaller or bigger and they’re much less harmful.

I mainly hear about fibres causing skin irritation as opposed to inhalation, but even that seems pretty overblown. Either way there’s no reason not to use fibre-core filaments instead of conventional fibre filled filaments.

I have a dishwasher annealed PLA bread scraper. (3 layers .2mm layer height) Weirdly it unwarped itself and just werks.

>>2971200
The tip of an asbestos fiber is only a few atoms thick, it can directly fuck up DNA strands through mechanical action.

From what I remember, your lungs can actually dissolve fiberglass over time which makes it a non issue for small exposures.

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Got my P1S today. I assume that printing PLA accessories to be placed inside is a bad idea because of the high temperature but PETG should be fine, right?

>>2971209
Doesn't PETG warp at similar temps?

>>2971209
>printing PLA accessories to be placed inside
Inside what for what purpose?

In the printer enclosure? Should be fine.
Inside a car? Fine until summertime.

>>2971219
Printer enclosure of course. I want to print all the cable clips, dust covers, fan covers etc.
>>2971214
Yeah makes me wonder since many model creators strictly advise against printing their accessories in PLA and recommend PETG instead.

>>2971221
>I want to print all the cable clips, dust covers, fan covers etc
Why? Just print a little container for the poop chute, or just put a cardboard box there.

>>2971222
Cable clips to help with the PETF tube wearing off when touching the glass cover, dust covers to protect axis from dust, fan covers to help with pieces of filament getting stuck there, and so on. I printed a shit ton of upgrades for my A1 mini and I regret nothing but none of them has to be heat-resistant so they are all printed in PLA.

>>2971209
PLA is good to 50C, PETG is good to 70C, give or take. 50C is pretty easy to hit all closed up and printing for hours, 70C less so. Maybe you can hit 70C printing ABS, but any hotter and the fans and motors will start complaining. On the other hand, if the part is directly touching a motor or is sufficiently close to the hot-end, a 50C enclosure might get hot enough at the plastic to soften PETG too.

>>2971230
>PETG is good to 70C
lmao.

>>2971261
>>2971230
fug, forgot to finish the post.
anyways, petg starts to deform at around 40-50c as well. Remember the prusas that died in enclosures at ABS printing temperatures.

>>2971262
>Remember the prusas that died in enclosures at ABS printing temperatures.

reddit faggots will downvote you, and call you a lair because their anecdote says otherwise. I always disliked prusa fags, and don't care about internet points.

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I designed an printed a 10" riser/bracket for a 63" sit on top shelf for my utespelare ikea desk that i'm using as an electronics workstation. the rough pine board is way-too-long m8 bolted to the top and the bottom is zip tied because i didn't want to punch holes in the desk. added some lateral bracing on the interior so the whole thing doesn't sheer off. if you push on the shelf it flexes maybe 1mm before the desk starts moving with it so pretty good rigidity and 0 worries about it collapsing
>$5 filament
>$6 board (only had rough boards in the size i needed)
>$7 for hardware
for tools it was
>drill
>twist drill bits
>$5 for a forstner bit
>one free cut per board at home depot
the holes were too close to the edge of the board so you can see it blew out the side of 3/4 of the edge holes but it's nice having the bolts flush. there's a middle support that had no problems. i'll probably dremel off the bolt ends and call it done. if i replace it i'll run the board through a planer first or hold out til they get some finished boards in stock. i like that it perfectly fits the desk so i don't know what to do about it blowing out the sides of the board when i sunk the bolts

>>2971261
>>2971262
Seems like official specs for heat deflection temperature are at least 65C, but perhaps it becomes much more creep-prone above 45C.

>>2971118
Asbestos fibers are dangerous because they self-fracture into ever-finer fibers (down to the scale of molecules) which can easily be inhaled, and once in the body, can cause damage by poking holes in cells (which causes scarring) and getting tangled in DNA (which causes cancer). Glass and carbon fiber do not do this.

>>2971214
>>2971221
PETG is more resistant to heat and fatigue than non-annealed PLA. It's not huge, but it's enough for many applications.

>>2971262
>Remember the prusas that died in enclosures at ABS printing temperatures.
This is from the power supply overheating. A common mod done to enclosed Prusas is to mount the power supply outside the enclosure, after which the printer's heat tolerance is increased.

>>2971283
I'm not sure boards are the right answer at all for this, you might be better off with plywood or one of those pre-finished melamine shelves. Also, I think the M8 hardware is unnecessary, all it's doing is keeping the shelf in place laterally, which doesn't need a ton of strength, and you could probably accomplish the same thing with 1/4-20 countersunk machine screws or similar.

>>2971283
diy in my /diy/?

>>2971349
cabinet grade plywood is great

>>2971202
still not food safe, godspeed with your Klebsiella pneumoniae you glorious faggot

>>2970900
3d cults or yeggi

>>2971137
better acrylics. mini acrylics are much thinner than art acrylics. paint pens suck because they can't get in cracks. best primer is rustoleum 2x that is NOT paint+primer which ironically I can only find at walmart. primer however is not required.

So I'm looking at finally getting my first printer in the near future. It'll be used for prototyping parts that will be CNC machined, as well as occasional practical stuff like toolbox organization, the occasional bracket for something, etc. I want a tool, not another hobby, and I'm currently working with Ender 5s so I know what I DON'T want to deal with. I'm a reasonably competent Fusion modeler, and work primarily in inches, which I know can be a problem with some slicers. I probably only need to print PLA and maybe PETG. I do want a decent-sized build volume, 10x10 or so.

It seems like an A1 is probably a good fit, but I know there are some downsides to Bambu and their proprietary stuff. Is there anything else in the price and feature range that's similarly reliable and easy to use though?

>>2971371
>CNC
Keep in mind that a 3D Printer is a far different type of manufacturing, yes the entire inverse really, towards subtractive manufacturing.

>>2971375
Oh yeah I'm well aware, I'm actually currently taking an additive mfg class as part of my overall machining/manufacturing degree. These will just be used for dimensional prototyping as well as the occasional low-stress component that needs to be plastic, and personal side projects.

>>2971371
>there are some downsides to Bambu and their proprietary stuff
name them

>>2971209
You have an enclosed printer now, it's time to man up and learn how to print ABS. Leave the kid filaments behind.

>>2971402
honestly idk, I know you have to use their slicer and cloud shit but other than that I just get an impression that a lot of people look down on them for whatever reason

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>>2970375
Ah fuck.

>>2970375
>>2971413
A tragedy in two acts, anon, 2026 (colorized)

>>2971402
>front falling off https://youtu.be/3m5qxZm_JqM
>sometimes blocks third-party software like OrcaSlicer
>Bambu has remote control of your printer that can cause damage
>poor support for modding

>>2971413
Lower accelerations. Looks like the gcode is asking more than the Y motor can give.

>>2971340
Bullshit. Printing PETG on a warmer day with doors closed was enough to send the X-axis into misalignment.

>>2971371
>>2971399
A machinist who can’t even write units. Don't worry an A1 will fit you quite well.

>>2971435
>enough to send the X-axis into misalignment.
The X axis on a Prusa i3 runs on steel rods supported by lead screws on both ends, each powered by its own stepper motor. A misalignment of the X axis implies some mechanical intervention that desynched the lead screws. What precisely are you insinuating happened? Keep in mind that people print ABS on i3s with enclosures in the 45-50C range without trouble. Some people do report PETG deformation with extended prints in a 70C enclosure (as in creep, not sudden failure), but I'm guessing your room was not that hot.

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>>2971441
>What precisely are you insinuating happened?
Left bracket deformed ever so slightly towards the weight of the motor. Belt tension became meh and the whole axis slightly tilted half a mil to the left. However it only became apparent at around layer ~100 when the sagging starts to scratch the print. Fun times figuring that out when the whole room expects it to be the just werks machine. At least the fix was as simple as reprinting the whole thing in ASA. Still runs to this day, although a lot less.
>tfw
My first time toying with gcode as well. Made a draft for the ASA brackets, but so that the draft stayed always up to three layers ahead of the printer. Endless copy paste, it was so dumb.

>>2970360
Download Kscan3D (https://web.archive.org/web/20170928052653/http://www.kscan3d.com/),
Skanekt (https://support.structure.io/article/457-where-can-i-find-skanect-download-link), or
Reconstructme (google it).
Also, download MeshLab (https://www.meshlab.net/#download).

AFAIK the PrimeSense 1.09 is an IR Structured Light scanner, so scanning dark, IR transparent, or highly reflective things is going to degrade your scan accuracy. buy some kind of spray to improve the scannability of your objects, Aesub spray, Dr.Scholl's Odor-X (the blue one), white spray chalk, baby powder, and Titanium oxide powder all work. Apply a thin, even coat, clumps will overexpose and create false deviations between your scan and part. When scanning you want to capture as much of the object as possible for alignment purposes, more scans = less good, that scanner doesn't have an IMU though so you'll just have to hope your software doesn't turn your parts into tacos or blobs.

I only have experience with the Creality Otter and MAF3, so ymmv.

>>2970698
Functional, I like it.

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improvise, adapt, overcome

heads up defcad will be illegal soon. I suggest you just download the entire site with httrack. Also hoard nylon filament if you can afford it.

>>2971510
Cite bill plz

>>2971515
I think its this one but i heard from a youtube video
https://www.congress.gov/bill/119th-congress/house-bill/4143/text/ih

>>2971518
So means of file distribution other than the internet would not be illegal under that bill. Interesting.

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>>2970342
Finally ordered a printer after years and years of sort of wanting one but not having a real concrete use case. Now I finally need one.
I’m still going to spend the first week making a billion Gridfinity containers. Yes I know that’s a stupid way to use a resin printer. My primary use case is printing 3D scanned natural objects and I’m not getting an FDM as well just for toys.

>>2970384
So is knitting and makeup but nobody goes out of their way to ruin those
Hmmmm wonder why

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I’m trying to find this specific badge but it’s basically impossible to get anywhere.
So I’m thinking my only real option is to recreate it in 3D and print it.
Can the final result actually look identical to the original?
Especially the chrome / shiny metal look, is that doable or will it always look “plastic”?

>>2971534
If the youtube videos are to be believed, you can get a convincing chrome look from multi part sprays. No Idea if the final result would be as hardy as a car badge though.

>>2971527
>>2971518
Unconstitutional on its face.
>some people remove the serial numbers from stolen guns, and some build their own guns using machine tools, therefore it shall be illegal to communicate information about designs for gun parts that may be used for an entirely different, entirely legal, process

>>2971531
You did get a curing station as well?

>>2971532
>nobody goes out of their way to ruin someone's makeup
I chuckled.

>>2971534
>>2971536
Definitely possible with chrome lacquer, probably what they used as well. Metal coating if someone got fancy. If you really wanna go all out on a mod, get it milled.

>>2971435
It's 4chan, not a technical document or process plan. I specified inches as my working units only a couple of sentences earlier and it should be obvious from context anyway, given that I was talking about the A1, which has a bed very close to 10"x10". I know many metric environments have the habit of specifying units every single time a number is mentioned but that's not the case in SAE ones, not even in machine shop or engineering environments if you're just casually discussing things and the unit in question is obvious.

>>2971534
Possible with a lot of sanding and spraypainting in layers.
More possible with $200 in cheap casting equipment and your metal of choice.

>>2971542
Yeah I got the big orange thing.

that car piece is made for electroplating. Had to get on my computer to post this btw and its making me do all 3 captchas annoying.

Anyone have any experience with Wood PLA type materials?

I want to 3D print some stuff for the inside of my computer, but it's one of those woody cases, so I wanted it to match. So, I was wondering if wood PLA looks sufficently woody.

>>2971534
Silver plating sprays look at least that good, with a clear-coat they should last. Otherwise you could print it out of conductive filament, sand it smooth, and electroplate it in nickel and polish that. Same for using conductive ink/paint on a regular 3D print I guess. Even spray-paints aren’t too bad looking, but I’m not sure if they approach a proper polished chrome look.

>>2971635
It looks like MDF at best. Print it at higher temperatures and it looks like darker MDF.

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Made a VU meter. Designed the enclosure, circuit, PCBs myself.

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Printed in clear PETG.

I first designed the case to be fully enclosed, but I haven't figured out how to print large tall things without it warping off the bed. So I had to redesign the case so the panels can lay flat on the bed and be bolted together with M3 self tapper plastic screws.

>>2971722
That a 3-pin microphone/aviation plug carrying AC from a transformer? It's probably the best way to go, but man the transformer boxes are kinda bulky.

>>2971723
Not too fond of the protruding screws, I'd have used longer standoffs if that were a possibility. Though they look like threaded standoffs, usually I use a short screw on either side of the standoff so I can remove the PCB without removing the standoffs. You can also 3D print standoffs into your model and embed nuts/inserts into those, this way is definitely the most elegant.

>>2971760
Yeah I went with an aviation plug since I'm using a center tap transformer in a separate box. As for as the standoffs go, yeah the protruding screws look dumb, but I can use something different since the standoffs are actually threaded into heatsets that are melted into the back panel.

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>>2971802
imagine not stocking both hex socket and countersunk hex

>>2971719
Share the schematics for the PCBs anon. Did you get them made at one of the chink fabs?

>>2971635
>>2971685
Wood filament is fucking garbage in my experience. I tried everything from wide heat fluctuation to staining and it never looked like anything but PLA and shit up my nozzle with carbon deposits. I'd love to see some genuine wood filament that works but for me it's just been PLA plus the smell of burning wood while printing.

>>2971832
Yeah, JLCPCB.

Hang on I'm working on a dramatically improved circuit and PCB right now, based on an opamp precision rectifier with a much nicer BOM, all SMD, all parts cost a penny each except for the opamp which costs like $0.20 (TL072). I'll share the gerber when it's ready.

Mental how people with FDM printers go around their house looking for things they claim they need but actually don't just to justify owning the printer.

>>2972004
It is justified if you combine it with electronics
https://youtu.be/K-oMvhZazBI

>>2972004
That's a good enough justification.

>>2972004
eh. I've got some decent enough skills when it comes to cad, and a fair amount of nuisances that apply only to me and my space.

>>2972029
dragon dildos?

Im printing a measuring tube rn is that s good enough justification?

Got an old printer, it has 2 Z, 1X and 1 Y endstop. Configured and compiled marlin 2 for it and it runs fine. Homes and prints.
But when I run it out of the envelope by sending a G0 or G1 it will ignore the endstops and keep loosing steps until their count matches the called distance.
It will also not prioritize unconditional halt, stop, E-stop, reset... but wait for a move to finish and then execute.
Why? I didnt find anything in the marlin documentation.
>>2971534
The geometry can definately be printed and refined by filling and smoothing.
I wouldn't be too confident with the spray painting route some commenters suggested. But what you can do is electroplating. This means you will have to start with electrically conductive filament or get a conductive layer on there by some means first and then electroplate.

>>2972041
No

>>2972030
>I'm a retarded gayniggerfaggot ergo everyone else is as well.
ok.

>>2972004
The latest thing I 3D printed was a custom jig to hold a pair of broken sunglasses in place so I could drill a tiny hole through the pieces with precision. Then I glued them together with some spring-steel wire going through that hole. They’re holding up well, that’s a few hundred dollars of repaired shit right there.

Initially I bought it so I could prototype and test-fit parts before ordering them to be CNC machined from metal, it’s definitely extremely well suited for that, but there definitely are plenty of other uses.

>>2971413
Hey is that an elegoo neptune 4 max? I'm about to try to sell mine. Can't return it. Bed levelling was a nightmare, tried everything under the sun, even Open Neptune 4 firmware, replaced bed screws with silicon spacers. Nothing. Probably sunk a hundred hours to get it working right.

>>2972088
Yeah, not mine though. The odd thing is it has solid metal spacers in the centre of the bed, so adjusting the bed springs just bends the bed. For big prints the springs wobble too much so we replaced the springs with solid standoffs, seems to be printing better now. Or it did until it collided. Seems like the POM wheels are getting pretty worn too, they really should have used those mini guide rods for the bed at least. A linear rod/rail swap would probably get it moving decently, but you might also want to use a more rigid bed-frame. In case you wanted to spend a few hundred more on the thing.

>>2972091
Thanks for the advice. I will probably save myself some sanity and time and try to sell the thing for any amount while being honest with some of the problems.

Although I'm pretty tempted to smash it to pieces.

The printer broke!

>>2972113
i fixed mine in the last days, the duality of /3dp/

>>2972113
well, fix it forhead.
thats (more than) half the fun of 3d printers.

>Washington State House Bill 2321
Anyone see the Washington bill?
Weird, I've not seen anything on 4chan anywhere about it.

>>2972189
yeah it's scary shit and is going to curbfuck a lot of people. print your guns now faggots.

>>2972189
FreedomTM
Really though i don't get how this is enforceable outside of closed source software printers.

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>>2972203
simple.
Closed source software printers.
All so that they can continue to let niggers with firearms and multiple felonies off with slaps on wrists.

>>2972210
Sure, but the the majority of home owned printers are open source.

>>2972189
It seems like an unconstitutional overreach, as anons were saying earlier: >>2971540
It’s also trivial to sidestep with an open source printer.

I have two halves of a disc I need put together permanently. I tried a little krazy glue along with some holes and pegs on the model itsel, but it's coming a little loose. There is some stress on the plates over time. I'd like to weld them together, either chemically or thermally.

Can I use a soldering iron to melt the seem of the two parts together? Maybe apply a little filament as solder for the gaps?

>>2972202
How so? Hasn't stopped the proliferation of questionable pr0n or torrents.

>>2972225
>Can I use a soldering iron to melt the seem of the two parts together?
Sounds like a way to ruin a soldering tip.

Typically, you model a mating surface in the parts (holes and pegs like you did) and glue that.
That should hold fine, you can also make sure that your pegs are just big enough to friction fit.

Is there an option to put a screw through on one side?
If so, put a heatset into the other side.

>>2972227
>Sounds like a way to ruin a soldering tip.
I would use a cheapo chink one that came with a kit rather than my nice Weller. As long as I was "ruining" it for the purpose of PLA and could still use it for that purpose, I wouldn't mind.
I did use some pegs and glue, but I'm pretty inexperienced with modeling and printing. I basically shaved off .1 mm from the pegs and printed three sets (of two) and used the one with the snuggest fit. From my inexperienced eyes, there's no room for a screw. I would like to learn how to do that, though.

>>2972228
you can "melt" some PLA with acetone and then "glue" the parts together. It is not really glue, but should work. Probably even better than any glue because you are kind of welding them together.
If you want more info on this technique you should type
>solvent welding
into your search engine of choice.

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>>2972225
>weld them together, either chemically or thermally
this style of cigarette lighter welds smallish pieces of PETG

>>2972244
It's also pretty gay for actually lightning anything. Don't waste your money on it.

>>2972243
acetone doesent dissolve pla, it just swells it, to dissolve it you need DCM which is very toxic

>>2972225
>How so?
it's open ended spyware law that one day disney might use to keep you from printing a halloween helmet because it's too similar to their IP. it's written to be as comprehensive as possible and leaves no loopholes to "just keep printing with my offline printer and SD card".

and even if you're not printing disney adjacent ponies, or guns, ALL of your print data goes to the government so they see all the shit you're printing to put up your butt.

it's the scary stupid kind of law, the kind a police state NEEDS to make sure everyone is guilty of something. and not for one second do I believe that all the whining on social media is going to change a damn thing.

>>2972243
surely you mean ABS not PLA

>>2972255
>and not for one second do I believe that all the whining on social media is going to change a damn thing.
0% compliance might. Washington legislators seem to imagine that companies around the world will scramble to redesign their products from the ground up to meet the demands which nothing in the market currently satisfies.

>>2972257
>which nothing in the market currently satisfies.
bambu ahead of the curve as always

>>2972258
>devices must resist attempts by tech-savvy users to circumvent the regulation
Swap out the main board, and you can install whatever you want on a Bambu, same as any other printer.

>>2970342
want to paint some prints
its going to be manhandled so something that deals with being touched
no idea what i'm looking for

mostly going to be acrylic sprayed out of an airbrush,

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>>2972260
Seriously

>>2972277
https://github.com/ChazLayyd/Bambu-Lab-Klipper-Conversion
Seriously.

>>2972274
It's worth it to cough up a bit more for the miniature paints hobbyists use i.e. Army Painter, Citadel. You will have a bad time using the big bottles of cheap Walmart acrylics. Visit /tg/'s work in progress/painting threads.

Hey everyone,
finally got a printer, a P1S.

I want to start designing my own parts. I used Inventor in university (like a decade ago) and I liked it.

What's the best/most common 3d modelling software to use these days?
If inventor, where should I torrent it from and what version for anyone who is familiar with the versions... Thanks

Tempted to just download the old version I used in school. Where is a safe location to torrent from these days?

>>2972302
Fusion360 is the most popular, probably by a huge margin

>>2972303
Hmm interesting, ok thanks.
It appears to be free for personal use?
Am I missing something here? I recall autodesk being one of the jewiest companies on the planet, why would they let ppl use it for free?

>>2972305
They realized it's more profitable to pull people into their ecosystem when they're learning and then make their money by charging corporations since everyone they hire will be already trained on autodesk shit.

It's a shame the frogs at dassault never learned this lesson, autodesk literally did a 10x in popularity over the last 10 years because of this.

>>2972246
>It's also pretty gay for actually lightning anything
Is it intended to be used for lighting cigarettes?
It looks more like it's for nipple play or maybe discouraging dogs.

>>2972305
>It appears to be free for personal use?
There's a lot of restrictions and it seems to be thoroughly botnetted.
You can use it but you'll need throwaway accounts and stuff if you want to avoid the marketing and onboarding programs they have like a trapdoor spider's web funnel.

>>2972279
>This Project is in BETA
>What doesn't work
>Webcam (You can purchase the X1C camera and wire it up as a USB camera)
>Stock display (Never will)
>Toolhead boards
>Filament runout detection
>Not everything is plug and play.
So not even the guy himself trusts it fully.

>>2972302
Hop onto Freecad, it's free as in freedom and beer.

>>2972325
It's a side project/sub hobby of a capable dev that exists solely to dab on a large corporation that wants to be the Apple Computers of 3d printers. The message is more important than weather or not it works.

>>2972328
The message being
>Swap out the main board, and you can install whatever you want on a Bambu, same as any other printer.
is pure bullshit, cope at best.

>>2972329
The message is that there are ways to own the bambu hardware and not be trapped in their gay IOT/always-online hellscape.

>>2972330
>ways
There's another project? Why don't you post it?

>>2972331
try google.

>>2972332
So there isn't.

>>2972333
>So there isn't.
NTA but maybe you're just bad at googling?

>>2972334
NTA but maybe you're just making shit up?

>>2972042
bump

>implying a law can't fuck you over just because it is unenforceable on a wide and just scale.
it's not meant to be widely enforced. It's meant to be a cudgel for anyone they dislike, while nogs with multiple felonies and firearms in violation on the various existing acts get let out on personal recognizance.

>>2970839
I have never dried filaments beyond storing them in a box with silica gel packets and every time I finish a can of pre-workout I throw that silica pack in. Never had any problems with any filaments.

Do you guys live in tropical swamps or something?

>>2972341
>AI fuzzy analysis that detects things that look like pistol grips or cutouts with pinholes to fit a glock trigger group and magazine well
Technically possible, such software wouldn't be run on a user machine and no company wants to pay for the server time analyzing every 3d model or cad drawing.

I am in favor of full voting and firearm rights for felons. They've been rehabilitated and returned to society after serving their sentence and should have full rights.

>>2972341
Well said.
>>2972343
>no company wants to pay for the server time analyzing every 3d model or cad drawing
If you're a community like Github, you have an army of Discord mod snitches who would rat you out for a gold star sticker on their profile. And they do it for free.
>full voting and firearm rights for felons
Agreed but repeat violent offender felons should be executed rather swiftly.

>>2972343
I am to some extent, but at the same time gang members getting caught with stolen rifles, glocks with switches, etc are not catching the appropriate charges. Guess what's one thing that can be done to curb gun violence and would only affect the people carrying out said violence?

I want to get a 3D printer sooner. Don't have one yet.
I have $50 credit to spend on AlIExpress. What 3D printering things can I buy that I will need? I'll spend a bit more than $50. That's okay.
Filament seems to be 4x the price of Amazon in my country. So not going to be getting that from AliExpress.

>>2972379
Assorted M2/M3/M4 bolts&nuts. I like socket caps, but some savages also specify countersunk.
Assorted threaded inserts for the above and a soldering iron if you don't already have one with temperature control.
A spare flex plate for the printer you end up selecting can't be a bad idea, especially if you plant to be printing things at high bed temps and would prefer to start your next job without having to wait for the previous one to cool.

>>2972339
idk maybe it thinks the endstops are on the other side

>>2972385
Alright I'll add those to my list.
I have all the soldering shit from china already including a T12.
What about a heated dryer box? Creality Space Pi???
I was thinking of buying a higher cost thing. I usually buy the cheaper odds and ends whenever there's small promos and discounts which come by more often.

>>2972331
https://youtu.be/z6Solk2XQcY

>>2972379
Get a filament dryer, 50 bucks should be enough for the cheap basic models and that's all you need. Unless you live in a desert, drying the shit out of your filament will improve print quality even with PLA.

>>2972300
I use 'expensive' airbrush paints for very fine detail because it just flows through brushes better for fine detail, but for bulk stuff where fine detail is not a problem, thinning down even the walmart stuff 3:1 or 5:1 in some cases is more than good enough, I use to do alot of art with airbrushes a number of years back, but I never really needed to seal it because it was either behind glass or not meant to be touched.

now that things are going to be touched, I want to give it the best chance to not wear off.

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First ever 3D print. Done for a class, instructions were to make our own benchmarks that'd test things like bridging, fine details, overhangs, etc., and they had to represent an actual object. Modeled in Fusion in about 2 hours and printed on an Ender 5-Plus, and I'm surprised at how well the details held up, I've got elements as small as .025" that printed accurately.

>>2972591
Nice.

>>2972591
Nice.

>>2972591
Nice.

>>2972591
Nice.

>>2972591
Noice.

>>2972591
Nice.

>>2972591
Nice.

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Recently got some acrylic paints and started painting prints, lots of fun and the end result is alright even for someone that has no painting skills

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I am making a full sized divine axe rhitta prop, printed in sections, and was wondering what are some good settings for structural integrity. I printed the first section at 2 wall thickness with 15% infill and can already tell it is going to be too flimsy.
Should I just double the wall thickness and not touch the infill?
Im using pla+

>>2972404
But why would the config of marlin be right, when it comes to homing and wrong when it comes to stopping?
I haven't recognized two seperate options for both modes in marlin and rn can't think of a scenario where someone would want the feature.

>>2972683
Use a rod of structural material (eg wood, aluminum, steel) that sits inside a hollow print. This can be useful for the handle to upper spear point and the blade to rear spear point. For the guard, print it solid with perimeters, arranged so that the curve is horizontal on the print bed. You can cut it in half down the middle to make the spikes and other parts it touches printable in this orientation, though another option is to print them in separate pieces. This would be preferable if you want layer lines to contribute to the metallic reflection of the prop.

>>2972726
How would I go about printing it to be hollow for a dowel? Just set it to 0% infill and position it horizontal on the build plate? Will this leave both ends open? The handle prints in 3 sections

>>2972729
Model a hollow section into it specifically sized/shaped for whatever rod you plan tot use.

>>2970698
Colour combos are truly horrendous but great model. Well done. Just look up tech colour palette and order the colours you like. I'm guessing you just used whatever filaments you had laying around?

>printing something
>notice that the first layer is off, some parts are too thin as if things are not level
>decided to give it a try
>the print doesn't stick
>notice temp is 260C or something and the bed is 90C (I am printing PLA)
>check slicer
>filament type is ABS
>the printer setting is also wrong, it uses a non BL touch version of my printer
WTH, why prusa slicer decided to change all these settings. I sure did not

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Are these really only for pens? it is 1.75mm, can't I use them with a 3d printer? Why not?

Would be nice to have a variety of colors for small prints

>>2972741
Did you open a 3mf file with those presets?

>>2972745
ohhh, yeah I did. That must be it, thanks

>>2972744
Those are tiny bits of filament wrapped loosely rather than on a spool. You can use them on a 3D printer for small prints, but they'd have a risk of tangling if run unattended. Though you could put them on a spool.

Anyone know anything about P1S Hotends?
I'm wondering if it's worth getting a high flow, or just one that's easier to change the nozzle of.
But YouTube is just full of paid shills and sponsored bullshit.

>>2972793
Define worth. Without need it's rarely worthwhile to fiddle with a Bambu.

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I am making a lithophane. Is the rough side supposed to be the front? I always assumed it would be the flat side and the picture would appear when light shines through it.

But in my attempt, the flat side looks like a blurry mess while the rough side is very clean. Did I make a mistake or is that how it was supposed to be.

>>2972890
to clarify, it is not as blurry as the photo. My camera was not able to focus but still quite blurry

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will weld on 16 be strong enough to glue together a large (5') sword for a cosplay or will it all just completely fall apart?

>>2972899
I should add that, I have to print the entire thing in like 25 different chunks.

>>2972899
INSUFFICIENT DATA FOR MEANINGFUL ANSWER

>>2972901
do i have to figure out how to put a hole through the entire model for like a dowel or something or is acrylic cement strong enough to bond every piece together, particularly in the handle

>>2972902
You haven't given any information of the sort which would determine the answer to that. What's the cosplay sword design and size, especially how it's broken into parts and how they mechanically interlock? What materials are you using? Do you have a technical data sheet for that glue?

>>2972902
You can probably just put holes in between parts and use glue and dowels to connect them. Unless you plan to use it as an actual sword, it probably would hold

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Any thoughts on what could be wrong with this malfunctioning Qidi printer?

>>2972910
Yes: you.

>>2972910
the Quibi printer

>>2972910
No clue, I’d try updating or downgrading the firmwares.

It would be nice if printers had a big red E-stop button on the front.

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>>2972934
Prusas do.

Which should I get.
The AD5M non-pro is $370 CAD (all prices with taxes).
The P1S without AMS is $610 CAD.
$240 difference.
But I will end up making the enclosure myself. The kit is going to be about $70 from Amazon. Plus two(?) spools of filament to print the parts about $40? The real difference in actual dollars spent between AD5M and P1S about $130. I hear bambu is a much better brand. For that difference might as well go for the better brand.

So it's coming down to whether or not I really need that AMS thing? I don't care about multicolor prints. I won't print toy models or flashy stuff to look at aside from curiosity maybe. I'm going to make things to use not look at. Like electronics hobby stuff, project boxes mostly. Or printing stuff to repair things in the future if the need arises.
Everywhere I look (aka r*ddit) says AMS is a must or I will die something.
How badly do I really need that AMS?

70 bucks for a few pieces of plexiglass enclosure and some screws. what the hell is even that. goddam maple markup on electronic shit makes it so hard to get advice on buy because budget is based on freedom dollars.

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>>2972945
>The P1S without AMS is $610 CAD.
it's been on sale for months

>>2972947
and i live in a province with the highest tax rates in canada and itd be $575

How come the sovol gets no hype?

>>2972973
does it deserve hype?
is it better than the alternative?
is it cheaper?
is it anything beyond a middle of the road "too cheap to buy bambu" and "not dumb enough to rebuild a second-hand ender"

give me a reson to care about a printer that i've only heard of from people asking for help fixing them

>>2972973
Because the SV08 and Sovol Zero came out a while ago, they flopped with the SV08 Max, and they haven't yet released a multicolour or multimaterial system. Even the SV08 has that extruder issue where you have to grind down the gear/shaft. The Zero looks solid, but it is pretty tiny, and you're still paying a decent dollar for something without a heated enclosure or multi-filament system. I expect they'll get good business with an SV08 toolchanger, whether INDX, a similar nozzle-swapper, or a full toolhead swapper. I think one of the YouTube shills implied they'd be releasing something influential this year, but they were pretty vague about it.

Also the SV06/07 are just Prusa bedslinger clones with corners cut and fuck-all support if anything goes wrong, the Neptunes and A1 series have caught up and will give you better support. Same applies to the Centauri Carbon vs the SV08 too I guess, assuming you don't need the build volume. The SV08 might still be preferable for build quality or moddability, but that's barely a market these days.

>>2972973
>>2972984
I bought a sovol sv01 back a few years ago, slapped a bl touch and it is working very well for me. No adjustments needed, didn't even replace the hot end yet. It was the cheapest printer you could buy back then, excluding the toy ones on aliexpress

>>2972973
SV08 is a great machine, but not plug and play.
Moded the extruder to avoid aforementioned extrusion issues (see OP).
Added my own enclosure as the official one looks flimsy and is honestly overpriced for what you get.
Flashed mainline Klipper as factory input shaping was questionable. Neither board has Katapult installed.
Looking into MicroSwiss hotend as well for CF prints down the road.
Now did this machine did a very good job at pushing all my large scale PLA projects the last few weeks? Absolutely. Would i buy another? Maybe at a similar deal as mine(200€ used), but new i'd probably wait for a revised version. Would i recommend it to a newbie? Absolutely not. The jolly Prusa experience of getting a lemon and sitting down with support for 8hours aren't going to happen. Neither a Bambu-esque "No clue, we send you a new machine". This machine should be treated as creality one. Lots of potential, nothing polished.
That said the community is pretty comfy, discussions are a lot more pragmatic than at aforementioned manufacturers.

>assuming the sticky is still legit
Currently thinking about upgrading from the A1 mini to the A1 with AMS, as I just don’t see myself really needing the speed of the PS1. Question is, has anyone successfully used the A1 with an enclosure to print harder materials like ABS? I don’t think I would need this feature much, maybe not ever, but I’m worried I’m making the same mistake I did with the A1 mini and not getting quite enough machine.

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>>2972947

>>2973009
>I don't more, but i need more
Get some sleep, mate.

>>2972945
>I won't do multi color prints
The why are you asking if you need ams or not

>>2972910
It is possessed, call your local church

Anyone with experience with resin printers here?
I will be moving to my own place but it is in downtown where houses are tight together and venting my shit outside may not be feasible or easy like now (Printer is inside growth tent with a fan pulling air out to the middle of nowhere).
Would a carbon air filter help me make the smell less noticeable so I can vent it outside?
I will make a room my workshop so I was wondering how feasible it is to keep the house clean. My current setup is a shed in a huge backyard so I am not familair with sharing a roof with the printer.

>>2973023
Cause I read it does other things like drying filament and continuous printing from multiple spools of the same color. I don't know how important this is.

>>2973049
Carbon filter should work well for the smell. The fumes dissipate pretty fast once pumped outside.
All my experience with resin is from work where we dont print that much with it but I noticed that resins vary a lot when it comes to odor.
You might want to check reviews when buying unknown resin if people arent complaining that it stinks. I used to use anycubic gray and that shit smelled like death even though our printer is in a fume hood.
I had decent luck with sunlu and phrozen resins, those are almost odorless.

>>2973055
Filament drying is more a matter of your environment, if you live somewhere humid it might be an issue, or if you have a spool that is very old and was not stored well it might need to spend a day drying. If you are totally new to printing you probably dont need one to experiment and learn. The only feature you should concern yourself with is the multi-color prints, if you dont care about that then dont bother.

>>2973071
If he’s printing PLA then yes, if it's PETG then maybe, if TPU then often you want to dry that out of the box.

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>>2972910
just print lines, like purge lines, its called 1D printing

>>2973074
>PETG
>maybe
What PETG are you guys using? From my experience it's the biggest sponge of all my roles.

>>2972945
Why is it so hard to decide, you guise? Now I'm leaning more towards just getting the FlashForge AD5M
How bad of an ass raping is Bambu's firmware shenanigans? When they decide to stop supporting in the future or further lock it down behind paywalls or some shit does that mean I have to accept whatever butt pains they decide I must suffer?

>>2973091
It’s bad, but if you seal it up in a bag when you’re not printing it’s probably fine for a few months. Can always slap it on the bed with a box atop it to drive off some moisture.

>>2973096
You can always block network connections to your printer from Bambu servers to prevent it from updating. But you might lose some features by doing so.

>>2973098
>block network connections
That only makes me want it less. Looking at posts about LAN mode seem like it makes Bambu printers a whole endeavor to setup local software tooling which defeats the purpose of the unbox and print shit without tinkering with the actual printer itself.
So the real value is in buying into their walled garden up in the cloud???
I guess this brand isn't what I thought it was.

Also, I've noticed 3D printing subreddits are full of bots. Not proverbial bots like, "hurr durr I don't what you're saying therefore you must be bot-brained". It's literal GPT bots dumping obvious prompted responses. And there also seems to be lots of sketchy activity like random posts will get bombed with militantly aggro replies.

>>2973104
>so, I've noticed 3D printing subreddits are full of bots
If you shill your model via a makerworld link you get points that you can exchange for giftcards in order to buy printers.
So, it's almost all just people trying to farm these points so they can get $5 giftcards.

>>2973091
>>2973098
Just don't. I can and do forget ASA rolls for months and they do fine when thrown in for a quickie. Meanwhile PETG needs more care than PET-CF, while being fuck all in every comparison. It's really an abomination of filament.

>>2973104
>Always has been
There's a whole joke about reddit being mostly bots anyway, but 3dprinting is also one of the more infuriating ones because users brought up the issue of promotion spam several times and mods just continued to watch regular people leaving for dedicated forums.

Been thinking about buying a used 3D printer. Are there any brands i should look out for? Skimming the posts i see people mention bambu labs having some kind of walled garden thing. I take it I should avoid those.

>>2973140
On the contrary: you should get one. They're far from perfect, but they're very plug and play. A lot of annoyances with lesser printers are solved by the Apple approach to user experience, infantilization, so the learning curve is way lower.

>>2973144
Do they play well with Linux PCs?

>>2973155
Only ubuntu in my experience.

>>2973155
Depends, I mainly use orcaslicer so not sure if its that bad on bambustudio but anything related to wayland breaks quite a bit.
It's even more annoying if you are using wayland and nvidia gpu. Orcaslicer devs have made some progress patching up wayland specific stuff but bugs still appear from time to time.

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>>2972735
it was made by me fusing like four or five different separate tail ends of abs and abs-gf >>2970841. Typically the spool of tail ends are used for trays like picrel, but I figured I have enough of those.

>>2973131
PETG is what I use for anything that needs to be more heat-resistant or UV-resistant than PLA, because I’m still using a bedslinger. Otherwise no point in using it, though it is pretty cheap.

>>2973155
If you’re autistic enough to choose Linux, maybe you’d prefer a printer thats open source too. Bambu ultimately have the ability to push firmware updates to your printer that can change how it works, so you have to trust that they won’t add in some bullshit AI firearm-detecting cloud shit that phones home all the time. For most users it’s not a deal-breaker, but if you care about the ability to self-host and the ethics of open source it’s probably a dealbreaker.

>>2973188
Have you thought about abs-gf core? apparently it doesn't need an enclosure.

>>2973155
Most modern ones run a version of klipper and most of their controlls are through a browser.
The two most popular slicers work in linux as well, orca and prusaslicer.
you'll be fine.

>>2973189
I was under the impression that ASAs were more warp resistant than ABSs, and that some PCs were even better. There aren’t many fibre-core filaments available locally to my country, but Sting3D’s ABS is one of them, for 30USD. The other fibre-core filaments I can get from local suppliers are PCTG, PETG, TPU, and PLA. I already bought a roll of the PCTG for any more demanding future projects (especially with regard to UV and chemical resistance), it was kinda expensive though. 30USD is kinda steep compared to the <$10 a roll I spend on the more common plastics, wouldn’t really want to be churning through dozens of rolls to make the parts for a Voron or whatever. I’d rather just use regular ABS, I plan on buying an enclosed coreXY sooner or later.

My filament drier can also only do 65C or so, I hear fibre-reinforced filaments are worse for absorbing moisture so I wouldn’t like to be stuck with an open roll for more than a month. Though I should probably buy a roll to keep around for when I need something with its properties, worst case I can print small/flat parts or use a draught shield.

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>>2973191
yeah, don't bother with fiber fill in that case.
and yes, they are terrible with moisture. They make filaments that can normally be left out for ages like abs into filaments that won't last a week outside their containers at 30% rh.

>>2973191
>Voron

in my cuntree seems like i can buy built ratrigs or vorons for 800-1200€, probably a far better deal than a built proosa mk4s or whateva

>>2973206
Was just an example. I'd probably sooner buy an SV08, U1, or Centauri Carbon and modify it as needed, seems like the price/value equation just doesn't support building a Voron unless you really need a versatile platform for modding.

I'd like to eventually build a Hevort for non-planar bullshit, maybe also a fancy toolchanger, but I have neither the room nor the ability to print its parts. And non-planar slicing is still in its infancy.

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>>2973191
If you are a real cheap ass or just poor, build an enclosure with whatever. Add a bed fan. Congrats you can now print ABS/ASA warp free.

>churn through dozens of rolls to make parts for one voron
Fuck off, it's not even one roll to print the parts required to build a voron that is print capable. You will never have to go through dozens of rolls to acheive that.
>printing voron parts in exotic fiber core filaments
Just print the first set of parts in ABS or ASA that you say you pay $10 per roll for. The only thing you should care about is that your parts are dimensionally accurate and have a softening temperature of >90°C.

>>2973239
>build an enclosure with whatever
Don't really want to roast my mainboard and PSU, but it's an option if I'm desperate.
>it's not even one roll to print the parts required to build a voron that is print capable
Oh damn, even an ABS-print capable one? I saw the ikea tub enclosure mod for the U1 take 900g of filament and assumed entire printers would take like 5 rolls. Or at least two rolls, since people usually print Vorons with two different colours. Dozens was hyberbole.
>dimensionally accurate
That's what I'm most worried about, seems like warping is a hard problem to solve even on some enclosed printers, but is heavily dependant on model geometry.
>90°C
Is this enough? If someone wants to print PPS or other higher-end engineering materials, I was expecting that the chamber temperature could be at least 70°C, so the parts contacting the stepper motors directly might get too hot. Another anon recommended (Prusament?) easyPC as a material that's capable of withstanding high temperatures while not being prone to warping, if you can buy it. I was wondering about annealed fibre-core PLA.

>>2972890
Which side matches the source photo's chirality when viewed?

>>2973244
There's kits that come with all mechanical parts in aluminium. You only need to print the skirts, panel mounts and the hotend mount. That's like half a roll of material.
I went with an ABS hotend mount for mine and it prints ABS no problem but if you search ali hard enough you might even find a metal hotend mount.
Biggest problem I had was the side panels warping inwards when hot, I had to use some thicker foam tape to make the gantry stop rubbing on them.

>>2972890
yes

>>2972899
>>2972900
have you considered designing it so it doesn't need glue?

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>>2972899
>will weld on 16 be strong enough to glue together a large (5') sword for a cosplay or will it all just completely fall apart?

>>2972899
have you considered designing a hole, and finding a rod that fits up your ass?

>>2973244
Nigga, do you even have a proper oven to anneal these yet/never to be printed PPS parts in?

Just print the voron parts in ASA. If you need higher chamber temps than printed ASA parts can handle, try PTFE stepper spacers or better yet build a full metal gantry.

Warping shouldn't be a big issue once you dail in your temps and have the right z-offset. 260° nozzle, 100-105°C Bed, 55°C chamber seems to do the trick for me at least. Increase part cooling if you see signs of over heating. Mickey mouse ears or a brim can also help.

So far none of my stressed ASA parts have failed on me with temps like those. Highest chamber temp I ever hit was just north of 65°C. At that point my NiteHawk 36 toolboard MCU hit 105°C and then crash so i had to vent the chamber. Steppers were around 80°C, after ibhad turned current down a bit.

If you routinley want to hit +70°C chamber temps then build an all metal gantry. And take great care sourcing parts. Heluflon cables, delta/sunon fans rated for 80°C etc. Forget about a toolhead CANbus board, you need an umbillical. Get a take-off toolhead or similar metal toolhead, connectors can't be the cheapest chink shit either but must be high quality nylon. Gates EPDM belts. Make sure the linear rails can cope with the intended temps some chinkshit carriages wont. Check if you need high-temp grease. Ditch acrylic panels for PC or even better yet, insulated aluminium panels that hold up to the heat and add rigidity. High temp printing is not as cool (hah) as it sounds, it's more difficult, expensive and labourus.

>>2972899
just post a pic of the bits man.
this is like me asking if synthetic oil is right for my lawnmower.
is it a 2 stroke? is it already using synthetic oil? is it a manual push mower and i just want to grease the bearings a bit? is my lawnmower a goat and it choked on a tin can and im asking if i can cook it in synthetic oil.

no one here has the information you have.
how big is the sword (5' doesn't tell us much, is this a rapier or clouds sword?)
how did you split it
WHERE are the splits
are you planning on swinging this around at a con one time, or weekly LARPS
is it a fucked up anime sword with proportions that make it impossible to actually hold its own weight in the real world

common sword tech is the dowel skewer, but sounds like its too late for you to do that.

>>2973367
>Nigga, do you even have a proper oven to anneal these yet/never to be printed PPS parts in?
Definitely not, but if I plan on printing PPS I should buy/make a drier that can go up to 120C anyhow, which would also work as an annealing oven.

Instead of fans wouldn't CPAP make more sense? You could run the external CPAP air over any components that need to remain cool, like the extruder and any circuit boards on the toolhead. Stepper motors of coreXY printers with moving beds can quite easily remain outside of the heated chamber. You might need an air outflow tube too, so you can keep the air flowing while there's no cooling needed. I think you could even put the filament path PTFE tube down the CPAP tube to mitigate heat-creep.

I have no intention of building such a printer any time soon, again I don't have the room for it.

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What could be causing this? It's like the whole layer slipped forward. This is the second piece in a row to do this (different gcode)

>>2973442
Layer skips are usually caused by mechanical interference of some kind. Maybe when your printer gets to a certain Z height, the motor binds or the gantry runs into an obstacle. If it happens at a very consistent Z height, I'd expect it to be an obstacle, if it's intermittent it might be binding in the belts/shafts/etc, so check those tensions too. If you shift your model on the bed towards the direction it slipped in it might sidestep the issue, but I'd want to properly understand the problem. Best way is probably to make a model with a narrow pillar in a suspect area of the bed, sufficiently tall, and watch it as it prints.