[a / b / c / d / e / f / g / gif / h / hr / k / m / o / p / r / s / t / u / v / vg / vm / vmg / vr / vrpg / vst / w / wg] [i / ic] [r9k / s4s / vip] [cm / hm / lgbt / y] [3 / aco / adv / an / bant / biz / cgl / ck / co / diy / fa / fit / gd / hc / his / int / jp / lit / mlp / mu / n / news / out / po / pol / pw / qst / sci / soc / sp / tg / toy / trv / tv / vp / vt / wsg / wsr / x / xs] [Settings] [Search] [Mobile] [Home]
Board
Settings Mobile Home
/diy/ - Do It Yourself

Name
Options
Comment
Verification
4chan Pass users can bypass this verification. [Learn More] [Login]
File
  • Please read the Rules and FAQ before posting.

08/21/20New boards added: /vrpg/, /vmg/, /vst/ and /vm/
05/04/17New trial board added: /bant/ - International/Random
10/04/16New board for 4chan Pass users: /vip/ - Very Important Posts
[Hide] [Show All]


[Advertise on 4chan]


File: bendywrenchy.jpg (124 KB, 676x477)
124 KB
124 KB JPG
Stupid questions that don't deserve their own thread

Last one's close to bump limit

>>2968869
>>
How TF do I choose a good drill press for metalworking?
>>
>>2972914
Just go ahead and spend a little more to start with instead of trying to cheap out with some HF crap. I have an older Craftsman that I like but I hear good things about WEN
>>
File: likebutter.jpg (48 KB, 450x600)
48 KB
48 KB JPG
>>2972914
>choose a good drill press for metalworking
itll use chad gears not lame ass virgin belts for power transfer
>>
Does anyone know of any websites that have architechtural plan resources? I want to build a cabin or even geodesic dome on my property, but all the resources I can find are $500 priced glamping airbnb stuff.
>>
File: 55279022_1-3093960391.jpg (276 KB, 1350x1800)
276 KB
276 KB JPG
>>2972914

It's a drill press, not a milling machine, it's going to be shit regardless; the table won't be square, it'll flex as you apply pressure, the chuck will have crazy runout. I still use the jobmate drill press I got for $60 when I was a teenager 20 years ago. Keep your bits sharp, use low RPMs and any drill press will do.
>>
Track down an old handcrank drill press. They weigh about 900 lbs, but you can work while the power is off.
>>
This fridge is leaking from pic related. Is this just a case of frozen water line. How to fix?
>>
>>2972939
Probably just leaking from the freezer. Defrost if you can. Pack everything in a cooler and leave the fridge unplugged with the doors open over night.
>>
Since frozen pipes are current issue, can any anon recommend a heating tape for them? Looking for cpvc safe and low fire hazard.

Something like this:
>https://www.amazon.com/Frost-King-HC12A-Heating-Cables/dp/B005FCFNSM
>>
I have a standing fan that when I plug it in and turn it on, the motor makes a sound but the fan doesn't move. I think it had this problem before too but I don't know how if at all it got fixed but it's happening again and I was wondering if I can do anything to fix it
>>
>>2972949
>wondering if I can do anything to fix it
I doubt it. If you could, you would have oiled it instead of asking here.
>>
>>2972949
Turn the blade by hand and see if it takes off. If it's stuck still, just junk it. Fan motors are not worth repairing.
>>
File: 20260126_130924.jpg (645 KB, 1733x1300)
645 KB
645 KB JPG
Before I bought my house, the previous owners redecorated on the cheap. Every wall is covered in extremely soft plaster that's cracking pretty much anywhere where shrinkage/expansion could happen and if I even touch a wall with even something solid, it's denting/marking it.

Can I paint over cracks or does every crack need filling? Will any wall paint help protect the soft plaster or do I have to live with this (needs a repaint anyway as there are loads of scorch marks from the previous owners using high powered filament bulbs everywhere)? Pic as thick as the cracks go, most of the cracks are about the same as the one travelling up the siding.
>>
File: Untitled.jpg (441 KB, 1224x1584)
441 KB
441 KB JPG
>>2972924
>I do not prize the word cheap. It is not a word of inspiration. It is the badge of poverty, the signal of distress. Cheap merchandise means cheap men and cheap men mean a cheap country.
Don't be a cheap man and you won't have such problems.
>>
so I want to buy an air compressor mainly for spray painting
recently I came across this type of "tankless" compressor on youtube but cannot find more info on this type of AC
I am curious of the numbers as they state for example 3.5CFM
has anyone tried this type of AC?
>>
File: 20260126135605.jpg (163 KB, 765x392)
163 KB
163 KB JPG
>>2973068
>mainly for spray painting
>>
do you guys have any recommendation for spray paint for metal, with a shiny aspect
will use on iron and iron alloys that go outside
>>
>>2973111
Rust-Oleum 5 in 1

As important as the spray is making sure your surface is super clean and super dry. You can also cure spraypaint to a hard finish with a quick trip in an oven if the piece is small enough
>>
I guess this is too stupid for a thread, so I'll post a link here >>2973088
>>
>>2973114
look like what i need, how's the shine?
>>
>>2972914
Get something vintage and fix it up. It will be better than 99% of the shit on the market today unless you step up to some commercial unit.
>>
>>2973115
also >>2973089

can someone explain to me why no one seems to care?
is it because I'm a sudaca? :(
>>
>>2973116
Pretty pretty pretty good
>>
>>2973122
cool, now i need to find a reseller in my country, thanks
>>
>>2973120
probably not.
i cant answer most of your questions, but yeah, drywall is good for soundproofing. and use plaster with it.
you use some special screws to drill in to metal, not sure what they are called in english, as I'm also ESL.
that said, i fucking hate drywall.
>>
File: Untitled.png (3.58 MB, 1362x1772)
3.58 MB
3.58 MB PNG
>>2973117
There is a middle ground between Snap-On and AliExpress. As the original image I posted implied, it was a 'light heavyweight' model. A middle ground between a standard duty drill press and a full industrial model. Sure, the motor alone weights more than your whole drill press and the rods of the capstan are more ridged than your drill press's column but it isn't a 'heavyweight' model. I guess that would make your drill press an extra light duty model?

But sure, if you are married to your glorified hand drill strapped to 8 pounds of the cheapest 'steel' engineered by man, feel free to wear that badge of poverty and distress with the sureness and confidence of someone that walks into a variety store an only can see Mango Snapple.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ojDmJ5VJ5rQ
>>
File: dp_cm_100_3view[1].jpg (567 KB, 1920x1080)
567 KB
567 KB JPG
>>2972914
100% THIS >>2973119

Hell, post the nearest city to your location (or your city if you are comfortable with it) and I will have a look at the auction sites I lurk on and see if there is anything good for you there.

Let me know how far you are willing to drive to pick one up and what kind of vehicle you can pick it up with. You can fit a decent floor standing drill press in most SUVs but you will want a pickup for a larger model.
>>
>>2973126
>it's better
>the salesman said so
>>
File: 1230171754a.jpg (475 KB, 960x1280)
475 KB
475 KB JPG
>>2973130
Posted it up before, but here it is again. Here's my old Atlas that I threw a variable speed DC motor and worm gear reducer onto to slow it down real good for steel. Still gotta throw a reversing switch onto it and then I could easily use it for tapping too.
>>
>>2973133
I'm sorry you can't read or understand how physics works but are you seriously trying to claim that a ½ inch thick, 3 and ¾ inch diameter steel column is not as ridged as the one on your drill press?
>>
>>2973134
Nice machine. Gotta fix that smile of shame though, homie.

>reversing switch
Look into a Versatapper by Supreme/Buck/Ridgid. They can attach to a standard drill press and allow you to do forward and reverse operations automatically. They can be had off eBay for under $100 and less if you can find one locally.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KzCsUeEmbb4
>>
File: 1756613901172320.png (685 KB, 1160x1090)
685 KB
685 KB PNG
>>2972907
i wanna charge a battery and run a fridge from my car while the car is running, then have the smaller battery continue running the fridge for some time while the car is off.
What is stopping me from doing option 1? (everything is 12v)
Or should i use some kinda relay to try and stop....feedback(?) while the vehicle is off? the car switches off accessories when i open my door.
>>
>>2973139
If your car switches off when you open the door, it seems like you already have your cutout switch.

You might want to put in a performance alternator though.
>>
>>2973135
>look at the bot, posting away
>>
>>2973125
>you use some special screws to drill in to metal, not sure what they are called in english, as I'm also ESL.
yeah, I know. there is a series of videos that teach how to install drywall so I got that part covered. but I don't want to have to deal with plaster, or even with the drywall itself...
>>
>>2973145
Maybe leave the plaster and just go over with some 1/4" sheetrock. Then put some panelling over the drywall.

I also hate the bullshit with drywall.
>hang it
>joint it
>paint it
>>
File: 20260127_133820.jpg (2.07 MB, 2999x2021)
2.07 MB
2.07 MB JPG
>going into loft to see if I need to lay boards down
>discover boards beneath the insulation, things looking good
>Discover this

This is what I think it is isn't it? Hard, claylike, slightly fibre like along the edges. House was built in 1960s, old forced air heating system previously with all the vents now sealed up.

I can't afford this shit...
>>
>>2973151
It's over, anon. You'll be dead in year. Sorry, bro.
>>
>>2973151
couldn't you, like, remove it and vacuum the place?
>>
>>2973157
That would possibly be one of the worst things to do...
>>
What kind of rubber are these household plumbing gaskets made of? The tap water in my country is chlorinated, fluorinated, salted and spiced, pozzed as fuck and I think it's causing these gaskets to fail only after 5 years or so.

I spent the entire year fixing leaks in my house and it's all due to these black rubber gaskets or o-rings. Silicone replacements should last longer, right?
>>
>>2973151
Spray.it with.a water and dlubke.bag it and put it innthe trash. Just looks like a piece of wallboard to me. )which also contains asbestos but they didn't make.everyone rip their houses apart
>>
>>2973159
NSF-61 EDPM probably.
>>
>>2973160
Yeah, supposedly it's fine if you hose it down with soapy water and don't bust it up. Solid board stuff isn't the real hazard. It's the friable wrap-around pipe shit that is the worst. Stuff like tile and boarding isn't bad if you keep it intact. Many inspectors will advise you to just leave it.
>>
>>2973162
There's a good chance the vents have it but those will be left undisturbed. Want to use my loft though (plus the hatch is in my bedroom) so if there are a load of broken tiles that'll throw up a load of dust if moved it's a problem.
>>
>>2973163
From your description it sounds like the suspect material is underneath roll insulation?

Maybe just put the boarding over top all of it and encapsulate the whole mess. .
>>
>>2973164
Yeah could be. The loft is partially boarded so maybe this was just some stuff from underneath.
>>
>>2973165
That's what I'd do. If mold isn't a possible issue, just lay some vapor barrier down and put your flooring over top.
>>
>>2973166
Old house in the UK, mould is something I have to be really careful about.
>>
>>2973162
>>2973160
>>2973164
>>2973166
Booked a survey. £177, will be able to find out if its just some bits of the old heating system that weren't cleared out or if my loft is a death trap.
>>
>>2973136
>Nice machine. Gotta fix that smile of shame though, homie.

Nah, it's original to the machine, not my doing. Don't really care enough to fix it. Yeah I know about the tapping heads, but I can throw a double throw reversing switch on this one and make it work just fine. I don't forsee doing a whole lot of power tapping in the drill press, but once in a while it would be alright.
>>
File: heatguard2.jpg (53 KB, 640x480)
53 KB
53 KB JPG
I have a heat guard off a semi. It's stainless and I want to make a grill rack out of it but I've tried to flatten it and it feels like it's gonna crumple. Ideas?
>>
File: skeleton-martini.jpg (15 KB, 336x400)
15 KB
15 KB JPG
i was wanting to build a fuck machine using one of my dumbells as a flywheel
will having a 25lbs flywheel on a fuck machine have any adverse effects
>>
>>2973194
heat maybe but itll ruin the finish, stainless even thin stainless is a bitch to work with
>>
>>2973200
Just use speedrail. $200, all in

And if you're set up to mold hard rubber, you can save a ton more
>>
>>2973202
Hmm yeah I might could get it to relax into shape. It's stainless not plated so I could just brush it clean, and I want to use it in a fire pit anyway so that's not going to hurt anything.
>>
I have a bunch of cheap pine furniture that's just different from one another to look mismatched.
I was planning on painting it to "modernize" it and make it look more cohesive, but I don't know how I'm supposed to choose the colors for it, what kind of knobs to use etc

Is there a sort of palette I can generate based on the color of the walls, for instance?

I used AI just to declutter in this case.
>>
File: file.png (2.05 MB, 1200x1800)
2.05 MB
2.05 MB PNG
>>2973231
Forgot pic.
>>
File: IMG_2564[1].jpg (701 KB, 1107x935)
701 KB
701 KB JPG
>>2973233
Ah, painted wood furniture. Your whole house will look like this soon. Don't forget to buy a Live, Laugh, Love decoration.
>>
File: ZomboDroid_27012026190202.jpg (908 KB, 2040x2791)
908 KB
908 KB JPG
The door closer for the front door of my building (self-managed) has ripped out of the frame and no longer will fully close the door. The kind retiree who normally takes care of maintenance for the building is currently dealing with the slow death of his spouse, so I was hoping to take care of this for him if it's not too big a job.

The door closer seems perfectly usable, but I don't know enough about installing them to know if I could just move the point where it mounts to the frame over a few inches, or if more drastic measures are needed. The building is quite old and I think the frame may be original, so I don't want to damage it. Any tips welcome
>>
>>2973249
Clean it up. Shove a grip of toothpicks in all the holes and cut them flat. Maybe a dab of glue to keep them on there while you setup all the holes. Screw into the toothpicks. Now ypur holes are all nice and tighy
>>
>>2973249
Longer screws
>>
>>2973250
This is the quick, cheap, decent way to fix the problem with stuff you probably already have around the place. A step up from this would be to drill out the holes and glue in some dowel to fully repair the problem. Then pre-drill new screw holes and re-install everything.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9qQAwrpErco

>>2973251
This is the dogshit dumbass way to fix the issue. It kicks the can down the road a bit but don't solve the problem half the time. Often, because the wood is already chewed up the longer screws end up coming out eventually. It probably costs more to boot. New screws are expensive but wood dowels and wood glue is cheap.
>>
>>2973253
Don't listen to this retarded nigger. Longer screws are the solution, not jamming garbage into the hole. You're screwing into what appears to be at least a 2x4 door header, the long way, and those are like 1" screws
>>
>>2973249
>if I could just move the point where it mounts to the frame over a few inches
No.
Remove one screw and replace it with a 3-inch screw of the same diameter or the next step larger.
Repeat until you've replaced all screws.
The longer screws will reach into the header above the frame.
>>
>>2973250
>>2973256
>>2973253
Thank you all, I'm going to look into the dowel option, and see about some good long screws.
>>
Hell yeah you want 3-in screws for your deadbolt hardware. Door jambs have like three 2x4s usually stacked back to back. You got your King stud, your queen stud your jack stud... Fuck you could use lag screws if you got a crazy ex really trying to get in your pad dude lol anyways... Take advice from this girl :)
>>
>>2973256
>The longer screws will reach into the header above the frame.
And possibly distort the frame and the door will start to stick.
>>
File: 1757499721473666.png (47 KB, 199x175)
47 KB
47 KB PNG
>>2973141
true, i wonder if i just use one of these it would make its own circuit then....? I'm guessing ill just have to make sure both dont blow a fuse
not sure on the alternator but its some big turbo diesel ute that i drive 2-3hrs a day.
>>
what can i use to clean grease? like old grease ranging from semi solid to fully solid
i opened an old mechanism that was filled with it by some idiot and dish soap and hot water arn't cutting it, my scrubbing brush don't scrub anymore from the grease, so i need something more aggressive
>>
>>2973326
Lye
Gas or kerosene
mineral spirits

Lye will break down the grease to soap. Petro-based solvents will dilute it enough to be washed away.
>>
>>2973327
any of these damage paint? i was going to strip it anyway
>>
>>2973339
Yes, it will damage the paint.
>>
>>2973346
i have rubbing alcohol too, would that work? or i might siphon the car to get some gas
>>
>>2973348
Do best to manually remove the most of it so it's not using up your cleaning agent then hot water and dawn should make a showing
>>
>>2973348
Alcohol will work.
>>
File: radial arm pillar drill.jpg (649 KB, 1664x1664)
649 KB
649 KB JPG
>>2972914
large ones with automatic down-feed, often radial arm. they are huge though, will require a crane/forklift to move.
generally though: older = better quality.
>>2972924
>it's going to be shit regardless
false.
>posts shittest pillar drill in existence
>reports problems all shit modern drill presses have
you have never used a good drill press.

also get a cross vice, mount it diagonally so the adjustment handles are at the front. do not be a fucking sped and mount it so the vice handle is at the front and one of the adjustment handles clashes with the pillar.
>>
>>2972917

Homeplans.com has like, cabins and shit, but they're all complex with bathrooms and shit; or you could just build an 8x12 box, if you know how to swing a hammer you and a mate could build it in a day or two.
>>
>>2973151

Assbestos is a complete nothingburger, a lawyer driven scare campaign designed to extract settlements from corporations. You will get cancer from breathing in any foreign substance if you do it for your entire fucking career. One exposure is completely fine and you can mitigate even one exposure by applying the same PPE you would for any other dust scenario

Source: mesothelioma healthcare resources are all run by lawyers, not doctors.
>>
>>2973360
>also get a cross vice,
Why?
>>
>>2973114
about this i have a question, how thin can this paint get? like if i go slowly and do very small layers on the lowest output
>>
File: 1.jpg (416 KB, 1280x1863)
416 KB
416 KB JPG
>>2973380
When drilling metal you must secure it to the table of the drill press (anyone that says not to is an idiot). A table mounted vice is great for this as it is faster then clamps, hold downs, or bolts. A cross vise (or x-y table) is even better as it allows you to move the work without having to move the vise. It is a real time saver when you need to drill multiple holes in a workpiece.

If you like to live dangerously you can use it as a poor man's milling machine. The January 1969 issue of Popular Mechanics has a guide on how to do this:

https://books.google.com/books?id=HNgDAAAAMBAJ&lpg=PP1&pg=PA180

I would NOT use some Chinesium drill like >>2972924 is a fan of for something like this. A Buffalo Forge or the heavier Atlas/Delta/Walker-Turner models will do. Maybe even an old camelback drill press if you have one (they were very overbuilt).
>>
File: justdrillinholes.jpg (109 KB, 500x544)
109 KB
109 KB JPG
drel prezz faggit should go back to /r/garagejournal
nobody gives a fuck about your pretentious machweenist addavise and a dp is just a countersink machine unless youre a le epic garage manspacecave makerwarrior
>>
>>2973410
Fuck bro, just get a standard cheapo drill press vise and throw one bolt loosely through it into the table somewhere. Easy to move and slide around to your next hole location and will stop the work from rotating. Easy Peasy.
>>
File: 2145.jpg (816 KB, 1536x1536)
816 KB
816 KB JPG
I'm not getting my deposit back, am I /diy/?
>>
>>2973427
is that just cobwebs? Sweep em off.
>>
>>2973429
Its mold
>>
>>2973427
you could probably spray some bleach all over that to turn it white for a bit for the inspection.
>>
File: valvoline.jpg (199 KB, 1448x1929)
199 KB
199 KB JPG
I found this cool old can of gear oil. How can I clean it without fucking up the paint? The thing is sticky as fuck and unpleasant to touch.
>>
File: IMG_2234.jpg (1.57 MB, 3021x2135)
1.57 MB
1.57 MB JPG
was this a good buy? marked down from $150 to $75
and the charger is an easy $15 back from craigslist

im poor and jobless and have plenty of time to turn a hand wrench and anyways i will be spending way more time digging through loose sockets than i will analog wrenching
>>
>>2973161
https://everythinginsidethefence.com/wp-content/uploads/chemline_chemical_resistance_guide_2015.pdf
So according to this, fluorides are okay and it's the chlorination, made worse by higher temperatures here in the tropics.
Any idea which is the next best material gasket I can buy in bulk?
>>
>>2973427
Paint it with some killz.
>>
File: shit.jpg (2.3 MB, 3113x3190)
2.3 MB
2.3 MB JPG
What are these spots on the bottom and the back of my shower? They're dark brown / black and some of them have dark green in the center.
>>
>>2973463
I would use a decent dish soap, like Dawn, first. Mix is with some water until is nice and soapy, spray it on the can, let it sit for a few minutes and then wipe gently with a cloth/paper towel/sponge. If that is not strong enough I would swap in a 50/50 mix of vinegar and water repeat the above steps.

>>2973483
Looks like oxidation. If so, the finish is fucked. The black and green is likely the underling metal oxidizing. It is probably some kind of brass. That is a common metal in plumbing fixtures. Copper and its alloys turn green when they oxidize.
>>
>>2973068
for air brushing the important part of a compressor is that it provided consistent pressure. a commercial compressor (for tools) has pulses in the output that coincide with the cycles whereas a good air brush compressor will not have as it leads to blatting of the paint. if you are using a paint sprayer and not an airbrush you're going to want a much bigger compressor with a tank. 3.5 is fine for an airbrush, it won't run a paint sprayer.
>>
>>2973139
what is stopping you is that battery won't charge properly. research having a "house battery" in an RV. You want a surepower battery isolator 1315 or similar.

It is a switch that when your alternator charging the vehicle system exceeds 14v connects the "house side" battery in order to charge it and when the vehicle is off disconnects the "house side" from draining your starter battery. it works the opposite direction (which you don't need) with the charging input on the "house side" coming from either a shore power (120v input) or solar panels (usually 24v) both of which require a charge controller but once the system exceeds 14v the surepower would connect the other direction and top off your starter. The surepower 1315 also has a switch override allowing you to connect or disconnect the batteries manually allowing you to essentially jump start yourself.

Since you're doing all this don't fuck with a power port, use proper gauge wiring and just hard wire the shit. Also consider using a real RV fridge (or any college fridge they are all actually 12v) instead of the overland faggot cooler. A real compressor wins every time, they're cheaper and they work better. I know I've had a cooler like that for like 10 years and only used it once because it's a piece of shit.

tl;dr: youre doing something that has been solved in the RV world since 1970 do it right
>>
>>2973159
>causing these gaskets to fail
or they're made to fail so you have to buy new gaskets. I can hear my toilet running right now from that exact fucking issue
>>
>>2973194
turn over
grill in trough
???
profit!

>>2973200
you're not building a train you stupid fuck. a cast iron dildo wouldn't be more than 2lbs and you wouldn't even need a flywheel for that. you're spending so much more power moving the flywheel and you don't even understand the purpose not to mention a fucking weight set wait isn't going to be balanced. full retard.
>>
>>2973249
1. pull trim
2. put a backing board (hardwood if possible) in the gap
3. screw longer screws into that board

this is kind of a step 1. "fix it" problem. you could use bolts with nuts into that space as well, replace the header board itself, reposition the screws, just flip the header board or just use longer screws to go past the board into the frame. but take the fucking trim off and look first to see what you're working with.
>>
>>2973427
how TF is mold your fault?
>>
>>2973520
You've never dealt with a shitlord. They will try to jew you every way possible. They'll say it's from water damage from steam or some shit
>>
>>2973469
>was this a good buy?
If you're happy with it, it was a good buy.
>>
File: IMG_0112.jpg (2.67 MB, 4032x3024)
2.67 MB
2.67 MB JPG
I got this Mulwark exacto knife set off amazon to cut thin wood for home model projects and it’s great, but can anyone tell me what half these blades do (anything that isn’t a chisel or regular triangle blade). I realize i don’t think i’m going to use the knives that aren’t the fine point blades.
Also do i need to oil them or anything to maintain them?

Description of the blades:
> This crafting knife tool kit comes with 13 pieces of interchangeable blades. This includes #17, #18 chiseling blades, #2, #11 fine point blades, #10, #22 general purpose blades, #5 angled chisel blades, #16 cranked blade, #24 deburring blade, and stencil edge blade.
>>
>>2973517
my toys weigh 3.5lbs atleast also because of the length of the stroke will be almost 6" it probably won't be running very quickly
>>
what are good examples of long term dwelling structures made out of long-lasting materials
I fucking hate using wood as a structural component.
I like mild steel square tubing and concrete.
I am a fat neet retard who might get kicked out of my house some day so obviously im retarded and can't really do anything too complex.
>>
>>2973594
Cinderblocks and a cot, and I hope you don't live anywhere cold because concrete and steel are shit insulators
>>
File: valvoline3.jpg (250 KB, 1448x1929)
250 KB
250 KB JPG
>>2973463
>>2973484
I tried spaying it down with Dawn and water. Vinegar, same deal. Did fuck all. So, I soaked it in water and Dawn for an hour. It took a layer of dirt off but didn't touch the grime. I then hit it with 409 degreaser. This cleaned the painted areas up quite well but didn't touch the cone area. I hit that with Goo Gone and that cleaned that up but did require a few applications (and a few paper towels). So clean in fact, I was able to get the cap off...
>>
File: valvoline2.jpg (125 KB, 1448x1929)
125 KB
125 KB JPG
>>2973613
...and discovered the thing was still factory sealed. So, fuck if I know what was spilled all over it.
>>
>>2973614
Just your basic shop leavins

Known to the state of cancer to cause California

Nice find tho
>>
File: PLEPS.jpg (1.22 MB, 974x2921)
1.22 MB
1.22 MB JPG
Why are earmuffs so popular for hearing protection? These things are 10x more comfortable and do a way better job
>>
>>2973618
>do a way better job
Maybe if you buy cheap ones.
>>
How do I learn basic functioning stuff so I can be somewhat useful
>>
>>2973618
Most people have only used the roll down foam disposable type plugs which have some real downsides. And in my experience most people find muffs more comfortable.
>>
>>2973613
>>2973614
nice cleanup and nice find with the factory seal
>>
>>2973618
What's the NRR on those? I use exclusively foam roll plugs because they have the highest NRR. I double up with ear muffs when doing something particularly loud like shooting.
>>
>>2973378
>warren zevon
>steve McQueen
>paul Gleason
>ed lauter
>a known carcinogen that was used in abundance in building materials attracting lawyers means it’s not actually carcinogenic
Ok…
>>
>>2973680
Apparently 26 Db but it's well enough that I use them shooting my .300 Win Mag with no issues.

I think that's just a lowball for CYA purposes
>>
File: img_4131.jpg (975 KB, 1936x1288)
975 KB
975 KB JPG
When it rains a lot for multiple weeks my apartment bedroom wall gets wet, it's mostly rentals so I doubt we will get that fixed for good anytime soon, would it be retarded to just add a layer of hydrophobic drywall on top of it? If so what's the right way to do it? Do I need to apply some product beforehand?
I'm not too worried about mould, summer will be here soon and walls will dry completely by then.
>>
>>2973683
>26dB
>shooting a long action rifle
Enjoy your hearing loss, bubba.
>>
>>2973618
'Cause you can't double stack earplugs homie.
>>
>>2973642
YouTube
>>
im just venting but i woke up to roto rooter digging up the neighbor on each side of me lawns. like wtf how are they both having sewer problems at the same time and they called the same company and i dont have any problems. im too much of a shut in to just go ask the workers and nim ultra paranoid like my shit is clogged to but since i live alone to poop back up hasnt hit or something fuck
>>
i need to replace an old joint in an old mechanism that was originally in felt
but i cannot find normal traditional wool felt, only polyester or any other synthetic shit, i don't know if that handle grease and friction well
do you guys know where i can find that?
>>
File: orchids-27.jpg (512 KB, 750x1000)
512 KB
512 KB JPG
I came up with an idea but I cannot tell if it's dumb or brilliant.
I can buy a few hectares of _agricultural_ land in a shithole location that I like for cheap, it would cost less than 400m2 plots of residential land in same area.
I don't plan to live there permanently, I only want to have a vacation house, so I don't really care about erecting a fully legal up-to-code dwelling. I don't even care about that house being good, I can be comfortable living in a tent and shitting in a bucket.
The idea is: build a greenhouse orchard, and "hide" a small cozy liveable shack inside. I assume nobody is going to inspect that greenhouse, so I'll have a house with a private green space for cheap, with a bonus of having a lot of land where I can tinker with horticulture automation when I'm bored just to demonstrate that I'm actually using the land as intended if anyone asks.
>>
>>2973693
Haven't had any issues thus far
>>
>>2973732
Just make sure you do the maths on the rates. If you call it a caretakers residence or on land that's actually zoned rural and build it to code then you might be able to do it completely legally.
>>
>>2973732
>I assume nobody is going to inspect that greenhouse
depending on where ou live and regulations, someone pretty much will inspect it if it's bigger than a shack
definitely a great idea still
plant stuff around it like bamboo to visually cover it
think of a sceptic tank and water/electric/internet line and you're good
>>
>>2973741
It's cumulative and gradual, that's why stupid people go deaf. They think they don't need protection and never notice anything getting worse until they're telling their kids to repeat everything because it happens gradually.
>>
>>2973766
I'm sure it's fine
>>
File: b77.jpg (511 KB, 2174x2923)
511 KB
511 KB JPG
>>2973732
i have an expat relative thats been trying this game for more than 10 years in rural northern ireland and it has not gone in his favor yet. the locals pretend to be nice and helpful then call the county and tax authorities to assfuck him in the next breath. plus steal materials deliveries if they show up while hes gone. they hate hes trying to game the system and cut in on their space by claiming his shack is an apiary for ag purposes. he enjoys larping as a sealawyer and citing antiqued doctrine in court so it keeps him busy
>>
>>2973768
huh?
>>
>>2973770
Bruh I was in a room the size of a parking space when someone NDd a .308, recovered fine. I'm not worried
>>
>>2973771
whaT?
>>
File: 20260130211541.jpg (675 KB, 1366x650)
675 KB
675 KB JPG
>>2973725
>>
>>2973777
>look up the amazon ones
>title say wool
>look material: polyester
>>
File: 20260130215338.jpg (819 KB, 1366x650)
819 KB
819 KB JPG
>>2973778
https://www.etsy.com/search?q=100%20Percent%20Wool%20Felt%20Sheets%20&ref=search_bar
>>
6 month old combi boiler just woke me up in the middle of the night shaking my wall. Sound didn't seem much different from normal.

Turning it off and on again fixed the problem. Pressure seems a little high at 2.6, but last I checked it was at 1.9 when cold.
>>
>>2973766
God I hope I go deaf so people will stop talking to me...
>>
Will my life be any better if I re-grout all the showers and bathtubs in the house? The original builders didn't use silicone on any of the edges, so they are all cracked. I'm trying to weigh how happy I'd be if it looked good, v.s. grinding out all that grout.
>>
>over the range light on microwave shits out
>remove bulb to inspect for markings
>it looks like this
what the frick? there was also a slight smell that reminded me of hot metal
>>
>>2973802
this is what it came out of. I'm guessing that is the threading/base that is still stuck in the socket? how do I get it out if so
>>
>>2973803
Needle nose pliers and grab the outer rim and unscrew. Don't stab them into the middle of the socket unless you want to see sparks.
>>
I'm trying to change my ceiling light pendant in my living room, the current one has all three wires live neutral and ground, whilst the new one only has connectors for two, presumably live and neutral. I had a quick search on what to do with the ground and Checkatrade suggests to trim the ground so no bare wire is exposed and then cover the end in tape. Is that sufficient, or a bit slack?
>>
So tired of maintaining this. Should I just list the pavers for free on facebook and turn it back to grass? I have a bad back and really don't want to remove each one myself.
>>
>>2973881
Just salt it like a snail

Even if someone was willing to come get them, then you have a pitfall of holes to twist your ankle in until you get around to filling them back in
>>
File: Drill Guide Pro.jpg (198 KB, 1206x664)
198 KB
198 KB JPG
I have to drill pretty straight holes into 1/2 and 2/4 MDF for a project i'm working on. Are these drill guide things any good at all? Is their a particular one that is good in the 50ish bucks price category?
>>
>>2973881
Just spray it once in awhile or flame weed it.
>>
>>2973250
I don't think the toothpick trick is good enough for a door check. Id drill out the screw hole and glue in dowel rod
>>
>>2973469
I'm assuming you are already in the Ryobi ecosystem? Do you have an coreless impact? My most used tool for working on cars is the M12 Milwaukee 3/8 stubby impact. I also have the M12 insider ratchet which is close to what you got, I don't reach for it very often 2bh
>>
>>2973469
>im poor and jobless

You're not poor until you're too poor to buy cheap tools
>>
>>2973884
No, these things are pretty awful. Best cheap option is a drill guide block, the better option would be just finding an old pillar drill.
>>
not sure where to ask this but ive noticed this seems to be a woman trait and i find it very annoying:
a woman will get pissed off at a man and start screaming at him in a social setting. maybe one loud man or woman or three may join them badmouthing the 'bad guy', but the majority of folks will stand by and be quiet and neutral and just not get involved becuase they may be friends with both parties and wanna stay on good terms etc, BUT i noticed women will -but men wont- pull out this card "no one here likes you, go away, we*all* hate you"
when thats not true. why do women always pull that line but men never do?

how do you call that shit out when the majority of folks just wanna stay quiet and not involved?
>>
>>2973683
Dude, as a 41 year old who has been shooting and other loud things with subpar ear protection. I'm telling you that's not enough ear pro for any kind of shooting without a suppressor, esp a fucking 300winmag (based btw)

I didn't start having hearing loss till my mid 30s. Remember its cumulative damage, it all adds up. I double up on hearing pro even shooting my 9mm outside, please start doing it now for any time you shoot.
>>
>>2973892
>drill guide block

I'm drilling a 1 1/8th holes, a drill block wont work. As far as using a drill press or pillar drill (they are the same thing?) i'm drilling MDF that's so big it be impossible to fit on the press.

I'm drilling buttons in fresh MDF restoring an old arcade machine. The control panel is huge.
>>
>>2973895
Then who cares if they're square? You have a lot of leeway with arcade buttons, have you never installed some before?
>>
>>2973896
In my test board I really struggle to get a straight hole esp in the 3/4 inch MDF. The buttons sit a little proud on one side if the hole is even a few degrees off. I don't find them to be have much wiggle room at all. I'm mostly a car guy and don't do a lot of wood working, this project has been a endless loop of buying woodworking tool and learning to use it. For example, I know own a router lol.

Also, this buttons are the last thing i'm drilling on the control panel just due to how i'm doing it. I'm going through 1/8 acrylic then the MDF. I really want some security not to fuck this up when doing it.
>>
>>2973898
The hole doesn't have to be that straight. Buttons have a bezel so you have a bit of room to work with, a file will finish it off. How far off can you really drift if you're drilling from the top?

You could do plunge cuts with a router, or just use it to clean up the holes after you drill them undersized with a glued on template. Use a hole saw.
>>
>>2973889
i have a regular 1/4in hex shank non-brushless impact driver that i recently have started using on my truck, problem is it is often too loud and i work on my truck in a courtyard surrounded by aprtments/familys.

this thing seems like it will be quieter and fit in more spaces than the impact gun but probably still not reach 2/3 of the bolts i am trying to get too.
i suppose i should just return it.
>>
File: IMG_2227.jpg (3.03 MB, 4032x3024)
3.03 MB
3.03 MB JPG
im looking for ratchet straps that are much more resilient than the orange harbor freight straps, but not bulky like these husky straps. does the big bulky plastic separate from husky ratchets? im also super budget conscious. any recommendations? i have amazon free shipping.

>i usually get 'my ratchet straps off the side of the highway but my pile is low right now and consist of mostly cheap shit.
>>
>>2973882
yea
>>2973885
I currently do a combo of both. Just tired of doing it like 4x a year.
>>
>>2973894
Coincidentally I'm also 41 and have been shooting since I can remember

Is fine
>>
>>2973902
>plunge cuts with a router

I can't find a 1 1/8 router bit. I was told not to run drill bits in a router due to RPM.
>>
>>2973910
Alright my brother, it's your ears. Just don't act shocked when it happens to you.
>>
>>2973914
You want to plunge cut full vertical? You use a smaller bit and trace the hole.
>>
>>2973915
I must have tiny ear passages because when I use the three flange rubber plugs it's legit like I'm deaf while I have them in
>>
File: 20260131125605.jpg (154 KB, 918x650)
154 KB
154 KB JPG
>>2973250
https://www.amazon.com/metal-inserts-wood/s?k=metal+inserts+for+wood
>>
File: hole.jpg (216 KB, 1237x814)
216 KB
216 KB JPG
>>2973918
Please keep in mind, I'm new to wood working. I tried to do this with a compression bit on my test board. I find it very hard to make a round hole even with the paper template down, plus it cracked the acrylic.

With pic related I can get clean cuts in both the acrylic and MDF in one shot. I just don't have the skill to drill the hole straight enough by hand
>>
>>2973884
>Are these drill guide things any good at all?
I have one and use it infrequently but it works okay for drilling straight (or angled) holes. It's also useful for drillling into pipe and other round objects that will fit inside the base.
I find the main problem is keeping the guide rails lubricated enough to keep the carriage sliding freely.
Other than that, it's okay for occasional use.
>>
>>2973934
Thanks for the info, do you have any opinions on the Kreg Drill Guide Pro vs Milescraft 1318? I've at least heard of Kreg before, never heard of Milescraft. The Milescraft has detends for the common angles that the Kreg doesn't.
>>
File: 20260131153238.jpg (123 KB, 953x636)
123 KB
123 KB JPG
>>2973936
>do you have any opinions on the Kreg Drill Guide Pro vs Milescraft 1318

I don't. I'm not where I can get to mine at the moment but it was not expensive.
It isn't even as nice as either of those but does the few jobs I've needed it for.

A quick look on Amazon led me to this one. It's very similar to mine.
>>
File: IMG_20260131_154256355.jpg (118 KB, 1280x1707)
118 KB
118 KB JPG
>>2973936
>>2973964
I thought it was at my shop which is six miles away but decided to check a storage building and it was in there.
I brought it in and snapped this pic.
It's a TechniCraft so you know it's great.
Like I said, it's cheap but works for me.
>>
File: 3w4g678g428vc4.jpg (2.44 MB, 4000x3000)
2.44 MB
2.44 MB JPG
Anyone know what kind of weather station is this? It was mounted by the previous owner of my home. I'm starting to get into radio as a hobby and there were a lot of weather reports over the air during the last big storm, so I'm curious how to get the data from this thing. It doesn't look like a wireless one, but I also don't see any pass through wires or junction boxes on the other side of the wall it's mounted to. Was hoping to find a brand or model on it but nothing... I can't find any similar looking ones on image search and GPT doesn't have a clue either.
>>
>>2973915
He's just a troll.
>>
>>2973980
No I'm just that unconcerned I guess
>>
>>2973996
More like you already have hearing loss and don't know it.
>>
>>2974003
If I had hearing loss and didn't know it, I think I'd know it
>>
Am I wasting my money with this?
https://www.walmart.com/ip/SentrySafe-SFW123DTB-Fire-Resistant-and-Water-Resistant-Safe-with-Combination-Lock-1-23-cu-ft/290698729?

I don't need it to be uber secure. I mostly only need something I can put important things (birth certificate, car title, etc) in one spot and not lose it, and be safe incase of fire or flood. The lock is more like a bonus to stop anyone from mindlessly/accidentally going through it. There's another model that's like $80 cheaper but it doesn't advertise it will keep digital media safe in fire. ....that being said, if there's a safe from another brand that is significantly more difficult to break in to for a similar price (and still fire/water resistant) then ima go for that one instead
>>
>>2974096
I would get this

https://www.academy.com/p/redfield-24-fireproof-gun-safe

In fact, I AM going to get this if my local Academy has one in stock. Barely costs more than yours, has about the same size footprint, and like 4x the storage.
>>
>>2972939
The drip tube is likely full of ice and frozen over and as a result any ice that melts off the condenser drops into the fridge. This shit is immensely annoying. Probably will have to take all the shit out of your freezer, take the panel covering the coils off, and use hot/boiling water to melt through the blockage.
>>
File: 20260201162232.jpg (155 KB, 1076x650)
155 KB
155 KB JPG
>>2974100
>take the panel covering the coils off, and use hot/boiling water to melt through the blockage.

THIS!

But if you have pic related or similar already, it's much faster and a lot less messy.
>>
>>2972907
Why does my air vent keep sucking my filter in like this and how do I fix it?
It makes a lot of noise because the air doesn't pass as smoothly and it makes it less effective as a filter. How do I fix it? It's like the suction is too strong but idk how to fix that, my thermostat doesn't have power levels
>>
>>2974178
Wrong sized filter, it should fit on that lip all the way around the borders and fill up the entire space
>>
File: anons filter.jpg (1.29 MB, 2720x2048)
1.29 MB
1.29 MB JPG
>>2974178
Just to clarify, this lip
>>
>>2973019
Personally, I would fill the cracks with caulk then paint although I think caulk is the solution for everything.
>>
File: 14x24x1.jpg (19 KB, 500x500)
19 KB
19 KB JPG
>>2974178
>Why does my air vent keep sucking my filter in like this and how do I fix it?
1. The reinforcing grid goes to the inside.
2. Clogged filters collapse due to pressure.
3 Pleated filters are more restrictive and clog faster.
4. Use fiberglass filters and change them regularly.
>>
>>2973618
can't blast tunes through those
>>
Why do boomers buy the cheapest chink shit possible for hand tools and get upset when those same tools suck shit?

As an example, I do whittling stuff as a hobby and got some Flexcut blades (good baseline stuff) and my father thought it looked neat, so my mom got him a $20 beginner set and he said it was uncomfortable to use so he stopped.

After he passed my mom gave me his set and they were thick, dull blades, of stainless steel. Fucking mall ninja katanas were sharper. No wonder he stopped when it would be like shaving a brick with a spork to use that shit. So I search all of his other "failed hobbies" and 100% of it was bottom dollar chink shit hand tools that were clearly dog shit. It's just sad really. Every time I got him something my mom would return it from where I got it or sell it on eBay to buy the chink shit and pocket the difference too.
>>
>>2974217
Because they grew up in a period when cheap tools weren't actual garbage, they were just factory rejects. Now there are a lot of chinks making shit that will never actually work, because they can sell it for the cheapest.
>>
I'm trying to replace the spindle in my sink's faucet since it has started leaking, but when I try to unscrew it the whole entire faucet spins along with it. (Even the part at the bottom that connects the water hose).
Do you guys think this is redeemable? The faucet barely ever got used. I don't know shit about any of this, not sure what to do with it.
>>
>>2974235
think you should just buy a new faucet bud
>>
>>2974218
>Find a box of tools in a shed when I was in a kid
>Name of the manufacturer is ground off of a bunch of them
>Ask the family about them
>Mom says the belong to her dad
>Says her dad always liked to brag that they weren't factory seconds but the company's top quality products

I did some research at the time and it seems they were originally Plomb tools. They had a trademark dispute with another company and lost. They had to change their name to Proto. They sold some of their tools at a discount because they had to grind the name off of them. This voided the warranty but I'm guessing the discount was substantial. They are robust wrenches and grampy wasn't known for buying anything top quality that you couldn't drink, drive, or fuck.
>>
Discovered a ~1/8" chip/hole in my tub right in the middle of the fillet between the bottom and side. Haven't checked if it's fiberglass or plastic but pretty sure its fiberglass (original builder special from 10 years ago). I only use it to bathe my kid and it's big enough that I'm pretty sure It would have made very obvious bubbles, so I'm thinking it just happened last bath time when he dropped a toy or something off the rim of the tub. Is it possible to patch a small hole like this and have it last, or should I just bite the bullet and replace it? It's a one piece unit and a quick glance on hoes and home derpot looks like they run about $700 nowadays so I would much rather patch it if possible, but not at the cost of flooding out under the tub one day.
>>
>>2974251
Patch/sand with bondo then cover with bathtub paint
>>
>>2973692
Thanks for nothing faggots. I gave up on the drywall idea and I'm building an interior wall and leaving a gap to avoid moisture transfer.
>>
How is Knipex pronounced? "Kinna-pex?"
>>
>>2974276
knip ex
>>
>>2974277
Like "nip ex?"
>>
File: U Wot.jpg (28 KB, 400x407)
28 KB
28 KB JPG
>>2974252
Bondo? Really?
>>
File: 20260202184130.jpg (210 KB, 815x542)
210 KB
210 KB JPG
>>2974276
>Knipex
https://engineerfix.com/how-do-you-pronounce-knipex/
>>
>>2974327
If people can pronounce GIF like the peanut butter, I'm saying nye-pex and no one can stop me
>>
File: 1756844444804955.png (200 KB, 435x532)
200 KB
200 KB PNG
>>2974327
>you can always tell a german
>but you cant tell them much
only a kraut would write that long of a description to explain you say it the nig in nigger
>>
>>2974235
the time/energy factor is almost always just buy a new faucet
i charge customers more to deal with cartridges than just replace the whole thing. each cartridge is the cost of a new faucet from my labor calculations (most of the time, sometimes it's easy and i'll cut the rate AFTER)
but uh, did you turn off the water supply?
>>
File: P_20260202_194412.jpg (370 KB, 2048x1536)
370 KB
370 KB JPG
How do I even approach this motherfucker? Need to replace the bulb or whatever it actually has inside.
>>
>>2974251
>>2974252
i've unironically seen this done with bondo effectively, it isn't pretty.
i would prefer an epoxy putty
if it works it works
>>
>>2973692
>>2974274
looks like the exterior around that wood just needs to be siliconed and you need to be less retarded and pickme
>>
>>2974290
no. knip
>>
>>2974378
You'd think the K would be silent like the words knight or knife.
>>
File: great idea.jpg (86 KB, 600x600)
86 KB
86 KB JPG
Do you know a nice chart for "next size up"? Like, if you have stripped threads, etc, and you want to remove the least amount of material.
Inch & metric on the same chart, I'm fine with mixing them.

That's just an example. Right now I'd like to rid myself of this 5/16-20 curse.
No, I'm not measuring it wrong. That's how it comes from the manufacturer.

Not interested in Helicoil, thread insert, etc because of size/clearance issues. Or any other solution except "drill larger & retap".

This issue has come up several times in the past few weeks, always bullshit sizes, always little material to work with. It's a pain.
I'd like some kind of reference where I just look it up, no figuring required.

Does either a 'Machinery Handbook' or 'Engineer Blackbook' have this stuff? Occasionally I see people recommend them, but I've never seen either in real life.
>>
>>2974381
>5/16-20 curse
>No, I'm not measuring it wrong
yes you are dipshit
thats m8x1.25 (common std thread size)
>>
>>2974379
maybe if it was english
>>
>>2974383
>m8x1.25
It isn't, but that's the next size up.
>>
>>2974389
m8x1.25 = .315"-20.32 tpi
5/16-18 tpi = .3125" = 7.94mm x 1.4mm pitch
both will start interchangeably in the wrong hole and fuck the threads up
t. grew up with hermaphrodite half metric chebby junk rigs and 80s john deere equipment covered in a mix of 5/16 and m8
>>
>>2974390
Yes. Hence my comment. You run into it alot on
"american" cars with foreign engines. Had a dodge with a mitsubishi engine that was rife with that shit.
>>
File: file.png (3.03 MB, 1920x2560)
3.03 MB
3.03 MB PNG
I'm losing my fucking mind.
I'm trying to install a pull-up bar in this sheer wall. According to my stud finder, the knock test, the magnet test, absolutely everything... the stud is here. But it isn't.
This is exactly 16 inches away from something that I'm 100% certain is a stud, and another 16 inches away is a structural post. What the fuck could I possibly be doing wrong here? I'm drilling a pilot hole with the 4mm drill bit the instructions tell me to, I install the bolt... and then it tears out, as if I was drilling it into the plywood and nothing else. It feels like a stud. It's exactly where a stud should be. But it clearly isn't one.
hlep
>>
>>2974393
Probably someone just put a piece of scrap to keep the sheets aligned and there isn't an actual stud.
>>
I got MDF that's about 0.7 inch thick for a small project, I gotta cut it now. Can't get a handsaw fast enough. So can I just use a box knife or will it blow up or catch fire or something? Im strongman so plenty of retard strength if it matters.
>>
>>2974398
It won't blow up, it'll just take forever. Maybe you can score it a bunch and then try and snap it in half if it's thin. Who the fuck doesn't have a handsaw?
>>
>>2974398
>can't get a handsaw fast enough
What's the hurry? The amount of time to get through that with a box cutter you could walk to the store, get a saw and walk back.
>>
>>2974399
I think it's too thick to snap cleanly. I'll box cutter it then.

>>2974400
For whatever reason stores near me only have power tools and I don't want to buy them because I don't need them (yet).
>>
>>2974356
With the new ways of installing modern lighting products, it's near impossible to know unless someone has the same fixture and knows.
It could be the diffuser snaps in allowing access to screws. It could be using a special mounting bracket that mounts to the ceiling and the fixture snaps or slides into the bracket. It could be something I've never seen before.

If it's in an apartment or condo, someone there may know.
If it's in a home in an area built by a single contractor, your neighbor may know or know the contractor.
If it's in a small enough community, you may be able to take the picture to the nearby big-box stores or lighting stores and the clerk for the lighting department might recognize it.

Good luck on your quest, anon.
>>
File: 20260203124849.jpg (694 KB, 1366x650)
694 KB
694 KB JPG
>>2974381
>Inch & metric on the same chart, I'm fine with mixing them.

pic related
first link in list
https://printableruleractualsize.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/04/chart-comparing-standard-screw-nut-hole-sizes-metric-scaled.jpg
>>
>entire days of work out of the window because the guy in charge doesn't understand measurements in mm. Ahhhhhhhhhhh.
>>
Fuckin' plow took out my mailbox. It's one of those plastic doodads that goes over a 4x4 post, in my case it was 2 2x4 but same shit obviously. Now those 2x4 are broken off flush with the frozen ground, and since I'm a complete moron, I'm asking.

How do I get those remnants out of the hole so I can put my mailbox back?

I don't have a ton of equipment.
>>
do you guys have any insight on how to give it's original shape to an old steel spring?
it's not huge, 9mm wide with a 1.5mm wire
>>
>>2974455
sue the contractor and make them figure it out
>>
>>2974462
If you mean the guy who installed the mailbox, that's me. If you mean the plow driver that's probably the state.
>>
>>2974464
I meant the plow driver, it's likely to be contract work, and even if it isn't, you can still sue them for property damages.
>>
>>2974465
lol
lmfao even
guaranteed theyll tell you to eat shit. and if you push it theyll threaten you for having an out of compliance mailbox post
>>
Nobody needs to sue. Just send an email or make a call first. Don't need to go 0-100 over a mailbox.
>>
>>2974467
Too late, I already contracted Rudy Giuliani, I'm sure he'll give this his all over $10 of wood against the state of Indiana.
>>
>>2974469
lmao I'm dying
>>
File: plvmb.jpg (3.11 MB, 3743x2660)
3.11 MB
3.11 MB JPG
>>2974241
pepperidge farm remembers back before pl*bbitors discovered the gj and decided plvmb was the holy grail of knob polishing and tool collecting
used to be nice to snag pebble shit out of the 50¢ bin at the swaps but it sure as fuck aint worth the snappy price the merchant types want for it now
>>
>>2974455
Take a bar and pry it out.
>>
>>2974393
and this point just cut out a section of drywall, to replace and install your own support
>>
File: IMG_3358.jpg (451 KB, 1920x2560)
451 KB
451 KB JPG
>>2974587
I’m gonna do this next month. In the meantime i popped in 6” headlok screws everywhere the plans said a stud or post was, and it’s holding with no movement. Doesn’t look the best but something is wrong with the wall and i’m definitely gonna have to make it a whole project later… at least i have extra area on the right to put up some rock climbing holds or a finger board or something
>>
>>2974590
force application perpendicular probably won't last, but it looks good
WAIT WHY ARE YOU IN A TRANNY DEN
>>
File: file.png (2.5 MB, 1374x938)
2.5 MB
2.5 MB PNG
>>2974592
>Tranny den
Certainly not. fwiw it isn't actually lit with rgb purple bullshit, my tank and microgreen grow lights just look like that on camera for some reason.
Do you mean that it's likely to tear out with force applied to the pull up bar? I thought it would probably hold since it has like 12 massive screws that go straight into structural wood (maybe minus 3 since there's that one weird stud that nothing bit into properly)
>>
File: window-framing-1e[1].png (8 KB, 500x500)
8 KB
8 KB PNG
>>2974590
There should not be studs above a window (or door).
The support for these areas is via a header.
>>
>>2974602
Are there not usually cripple studs over the top of headers? This room's ceiling is vaulted so there definitely should be some form of support over the windows.. or maybe my understanding of framing is worse than I thought
>>
>>2974617
If the window sits low enough, sure. But in your picture, there should definitely be a header where you placed the bar over the window.
>>
Is there a way to drive a second three-phase motor of different construction but the same electrical specs off of the same controller? Yes it's an e-bike and yes I am poor and fat, etc.

But still, the spare three-phase hub motor I have is just collecting dust and not suitable for other projects. Is there some way to take the three-phase AC from the controller and couple it in a way that doesn't cause feedback to the first motor?

I've already tried just wiring both to the same pin and at a bench it stutters HORRIBLY but without seeming to cause damage to anything, and rolling it "under load" on the ground results in basically no power delivery. each individual motor works fine with or without its hall effect sensor wires connected. I imagine the issue is interference/feedback.
>>
>>2974595
why do you insist on doing pull-ups right at the window if not to show off your yeen-defiling girlcock?
>>
>>2974617
It is a terminology thing they are pointing out. Studs run vertically in a wall. Headers run horizontally. Is there wood there? Yes, but they were just whinging that you didn't call it the right kind of wood.
>>
>>2974654
>they were just whinging that you didn't call it the right kind of wood.

It was brought up because he was looking for and unable to find studs.
>>
Has any one replaced the mason boards in a fireplace? I paid a dude $400 a few years ago and it cracked in the same way the old one did. I assume I should be replacing it for safety. I watched him just take an angle grinder and cut to fit my box. Is that all there really is to it?
>>
Anyone work for Servpro or a similar cleaning company, are you allowed to keep stuff that the customer wants rid of?
>>
I bought a truck the other day for a good price. The motor and transmission are solid. it needs some suspension work and a few sensors, I can do all that. What’s bothering me is the rest. I have a 1990 Ford as well, it’s got some bad rust but it’s also an old truck. This is a 2004 Chevy which apparently are known for their rust. Anyway I have a general plan
>Remove bed
>use a Hercules metal surfacing tool on every spot I can get onto while the truck is dry
>Washing everything, pressure wash inside frame to remove dirt and filth
>plastic and tape off anything under the truck that isn’t metal
>apply a product called Exrust made by Kroil, I’ve heard good things but open to suggestions
>park truck in garage with dehumidifier running for a few days
>Apply a product called SkunkRust, it’s a buffered phosphoric acid that converts ferric oxide into phosphoric oxide, basically removes rust and creates a rust proof barrier
>apply this several times across all metal surfaces while keeping gaskets/wires/cv boots taped off
>while the truck is dry apply a bath of linseed oil either straight up or mixed with WD-40 or Flood Penetrol at a 3:1 ratio, coat the entire underside, as much of the frame as possible from the outside and then saturate the inside of the frame as well
This essentially strips as much of the rust and old paint off as possible with mechanical and chemical processes, converts and “primes” rust surfaces into a patina, then the linseed oil wash will act as a rust barrier without sealing in any rust or water. Any thoughts or suggestions? The skunkrust only has very few vague references online but rust belt auto restoration guys swear by it and so do boat guys
>>
File: 1766190655848712.png (337 KB, 564x723)
337 KB
337 KB PNG
>>2974737
"are you allowed to"
Like is that such a dear job you would really fret over it. If you can get a thing that is worth a weeks wages, and the chance the corpos would find out is nill and the odds they would care if they found out is negligible, presuming your a good wagie for them... Like a $15-20/hr job can be walked into anywhere around here if you don't smell bad and are lacking face tattoos, and you can keep the job so long as you show up sober and on time.
>>
>>2974753
>apply a product called Exrust made by Kroil,
I've used it. I like evapo-rust better.
I've stated mixing my own "evapo-rust" for less than 1/4 the cost.
I keep the mixed solution in an old Kano Exrust jug.

1Gal water +
378.7G / 13.36Oz citric acid +
one of the following
151.48G / 5.34Oz Sodium Carbonate / Washing Soda
>>
>>2974754
Fair enough
>>
>>2974756
Looks like evapo-rust is intended for soaking. Do you use your version as a spray or a bath? I was leaning towards the Exrust because it can be applied specifically to a vehicle frame with a pump sprayer and doesn’t relay on prolonged contact to work. Do you have any thoughts on the SkunkRust product?
>>
>>2974761
Not that anon, but I have used ospho many times with good results. Dunno how it compares to the other products you are talking about but you might look into it. Also fluid film for rust protection.
>>
>>2974769
>ospho
the prep n etch homeless despot sells for less also works fine
buying concentrated phosphoric acid and cutting it with water is the most economical
plus you can use it to set up a parkerizing bath if you want to surface treat metal parts
>>
>>2974393
Been there once when installing a wall mount for a TV, turned out I wasn't drilling pilot holes deep enough. After a day of trial and error that left the wall looking similar to yours, also against all indications that the stud was there, I borrowed a chinky borescope from a****n and blasted a 1/4" hole a couple inches off the supposed stud. With the 1/4" bit I finally did reach the other side, the borescope confirmed the stud was where it was supposed to be, and my short pilot hole bits simple were not reaching it because for some fuck knows what reason, I shit you not, the wall had two 3/4" sheets of drywall plus an extra 1/4" stacked on top of one another.
I mean I guess the reason is it's a party wall between mine and next condo over, but fuck that lol. (And I guess the pilot bits actually were reaching the stud, but just barely, and with all the drywall in between I could not feel the difference). Had to go and buy extra longer lag bolts than the ones that came with the mount to get a proper hold.
Just a story though, this anon >>2974602 is probably right.
>>
>>2974696
>mason boards
Getting no results on google for whatever this is. Is it brick? Can you post a picture?
>>
>>2974807
>>2974696
i think he means firebricks / chamotte bricks, but i'm as confused really
>>
>>2974807
>>2974811
I should've looked it up for the correct name. They're refractory panels.
>>
>>2974813
that's just a firebirck, isn't it?
>>
>>2974813
I think you should use refractory mortar. Yes, that exists too, not just refractory bricks. It's also fucking expensive
>>
Anon, recommend me some radon tests. Are any of the digital ones actually reliable and worth the investment, or are the one time use ones sent to a lab the only way to go?
>>
>>2974761
>Do you use your version as a spray or a bath?
It depends on the amount of rust. If it's just frosted, I apply enough to wet it down and add some if it starts drying before the rust turns black. Sometimes, just a paper towel or cloth wetted with it wipes it away. Once it's black, just clean it and apply protection.
If it's heavily rusted and flaking, I soak it. Sometimes it takes a full day or more to work.

>>2974761
>Do you have any thoughts on the SkunkRust product?
I've not heard of it before.

I've used Naval Jelly and similar brush-on coatings in the past but that's about the extent of my dealings with rust remover.
Naval Jelly (and similar)
Kano Exrust
Evapo-Rust
Home-made
Coca Cola, vinegar, CLR, etc. AND WIRE BRUSHES!
>>
>>2974814
They look like bricks, they're just masonry panels.

>>2974818
just spackle some mortar over the crack and call it a day? Will that repair even work?
>>
>>2974824
>They look like bricks, they're just masonry panels.
yeah, but they're made from the same material, aren't they? it needs to be a firebrick material, or maybe i'm understanding this wrong?
>>
>>2974832
My brother in christ, they're panels. Thats all I really know. I'm asking /diy/ if all there is to it is taking an angle grinder, trimming to fit, then tossing that bitch in there. I'm not a fireplace guy, you'll have to ask Grok your questions.
>>
I'm getting into amateur tier blacksmithing, dicking around with railroad spikes and such. Does colder quench oil make the metal harder when you temper it?
>>
>>2974820
Pls halp! I am being irradiated, maybe.
>>
>>2974770
I'll have to look into what the hardware stores around here have. Nearest home depot is over an hour away. We did recently get a Sutherlands in the next town over. But I can order ospho off amazon and a gallon of it covers a ton of area of you brush it on or carefully spritz it on, and I don't use it that often so I don't know if it would overall be saving me much money.
>>
>>2974838
should be fairly warm, iirc. like 50c
>>
>>2974838
>Does colder quench oil make the metal harder when you temper it?
Tempering doesn't involve oil.
>>
>>2973151
Update.

Got a survey done. Those tiles and an old flue pipe were the only things that tested positive but they're both the safest form (concrete). The pipe I'll just leave, bought a full body PPE Asbestos disposal kit and double bagged up the tiles and all the debris around it.

£230 for the survey which I possibly didn't need to spend in retrospect but at least I know there's no Asbestos boards or insulation, £35 for the PPE kit, local recycling centre will take asbestos concrete for free if it's bagged up.
>>
File: thumbs-up.png (239 KB, 920x920)
239 KB
239 KB PNG
>>2974895
>Update.
>>
File: battery.jpg (1.19 MB, 4032x1960)
1.19 MB
1.19 MB JPG
what brand fits?
>>
>>2972907
I thought of making a new thread, but after a little bit of research, I guess this is kind of stupid as a question.
assume you want to build a bed&breakfast, you are too lazy to clean stuff and too cheap to hire someone. how would you design and build a (mostly, though ideally fully) self-cleaning bathroom? like, something that can be cleaned simply by using a pressure washer?
maybe twisting the problem, what tools would you use to have a fully self-cleaning bathroom? I guess things like this could help:
- cleaning solution dispenser (which got discontinued...): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oX5AAiwpiz8&t=265s
- or some window cleaning robot

regarding software, Home Assistant seems like a great tool for automating stuff and running processes remotely.

do you think this is worth a new thread?
>>
File: youjustknow.jpg (35 KB, 590x324)
35 KB
35 KB JPG
>>2974932
seal everything, drain in the floor, simple as. the other half is you need to get your pressure washer hooked up and inside, which if you're constructing in the first place isn't a problem. your problem is drying, the shit isn't going to just dry and after all that money you could have just hired a mexican for minimum wage. there is a reason non public toilets don't fucking do this and the public ones are just advanced versions of the same thing.

Seriously you cannot expect to run a business have multi-day clients and NOT have a fucking MAID. whatever your fucking hangup about bathrooms it's stupid af to think you can run a bnb and use a pressure washer to solve your problems. I mean god damn infrastructure aside have you ever USED one? shit blows back and gets all over you and in this case it's going to be literal shit.

anyway rant aside florida houses are generally slab with curbs so you can literally wash it out with a hose. one better this lady studying dolphins lived in like 3 feet of water in her living room, with the dolphins, so anything is possible, don't let your stupid dreams be dreams.
>>
>>2974924
>dewat?
>>
File: gallon jug.jpg (86 KB, 755x836)
86 KB
86 KB JPG
I got the hookup on these gallon jugs. I've already done all the normal, sorting nuts, bolts screws.

What are some neat uses for them?
>>
>>2974934
>have you ever USED one? shit blows back and gets all over you and in this case it's going to be literal shit.
sure, but a soap dispenser is just a low power version of a pressure washer. I bet there are variable-pressure pressure washers that wouldn't blow back shit at you lmao.
anyway, that's exactly why I'm asking how to design such a thing in the first place. obviously a bathroom would have to be specifically designed to be cleaned with tools, maybe automated ones, maybe ones that can be automated.
>>
>>2974938
the classic jar thing is to screw the lids under a shelf and screw them in for storage.

you could heat and blow out to form cosplay face shields etc. bombs, vacuums, elephant toothpaste, store your shit piss and vomit, make your own printer filament, build a raft. they seem too big for a lot of what you could do with a bottle crafts, like idk making a giant mug would be stupid big but add a straw and etsy the next stanley maybe. maybe split, flatten with heat and use them for vacuum form blanks. the lids can be coasters. they'd make a decent shit tube replacement for dirtbag climbers. pretty much all I can think of rn.
>>
>>2974939
nozzles are just a shape an pressure, pressure washer is just a convenient way to have it all in one package, it sounded a lot like you were going to stand there and hose shit down. like I said it's already been done with full automation for public toilets and there is every size shape and pressure of sprayer, I mean a fuel rail is nothing but a pressure washer for your car. Just remember a custom CNC spray rail on a robot arm will never suck your dick the way an over the hill illegal maid will, no matter how much you design it.
>>
on a completely different topic:
can someone give me info on respirators used in construction? I need to clean some places that might contain asbestos and also spray some wood with borates, and I need to buy a respirator, but I have no clue what to buy.

>>2974942
not sure why you insist, but I'm not gonna hire anyone. my mom used to do that shit for a living, I know how terrible the job is, and I also know how terrible is the work the current generations do.
thanks for the advice anyway.
>>
>>2974938
floats. tons of people who do hobby or barely-professional work on boats need big plastic floats for stuff. buoys for marking all kinds of shit. floats for anchor chain markers. marking nets. students making submersible stuff but needing to know where it is when their chink sensors inevitably fail. keeping part of a net afloat. just yeeting it into the water to confuse traffic. chaining them together on a rope to mark an area. all sorts of shit.

they're not outright disposable but are something of a "wear part" since they're easy to lose and tend to get banged up so there's always a market for more. just putting the lid on it should make it already almost watertight but you could always blob some extra silicone in there and hose it down in plastidip to make it look and feel a little more legit

you could even "design" some kind of mildly useful semi-disposable buoy yourself and sell it online. throw a few AA batteries and some LEDs in there and now it's a 1000$ Coast Guard Approved Safety Device
>>
>>2974947
>students making submersible stuff
they could just make submersibles out of the containers.
>>
I painted this room today and I'm pleased with the result, because I generally have no artistic ability. Tomorrow I'll put up curtains, shelves, and moulding. Just wanted to share with my best friends :-)
>>
>>2974949
Bueno fren

Very soothing, wall color included
>>
>>2974949
I like the concept, I would've tried harder to make the light the central point and have the clouds around it in circular rings.
>>
>>2974952
The perspective was the most difficult part for me. Initially, I was going to circle them around the light. Ended up placing the shadows to face the clouds toward the door though. I watched a YouTube video, and the mural artist said it's going to look best from one spot. I tried to make that spot right where you enter the room.
>>
Can I just run a tube from the kitchen dish soap pump tube into a full ass gallon of soap by unscrewing the bottle so the tube goes under the sink? I am so sick of filling this shit and getting soap everywhere I just want that direct line to a gallon of soap.
>>
File: u.png (387 KB, 750x750)
387 KB
387 KB PNG
I need to get lacquer off these cheap brass turn signals, I'm going to solder a brass wire cage to them and then let them acquire patina with no coating. How do I best go about that? Will my usual brake fluid plus brake cleaner trick work? Or gas burner to just burn them off? I really don't wanna sand shit. Jewelers say boil them with baking soda but I don't have a burner in the garage.
>>
>>2974965
Bit of clarification- brake fluid kills car paint and anodisation on aluminium, so I have used it as paint remover because used brake fluid is free. But I'm not sure it won't fuck with brass or my ability to solder to it, it might contaminate the fuck out of it.
>>
>>2974629
Do you fuck your plushies, anon? I don't

>>2974654
>>2974620
Gotcha gotcha. I actually got in contact with the person who built the second floor of this house (reno job) and he confirmed what I thought. There's supposed to be a solid beam over the windows, and then cripple studs over that beam. He has no idea what could possibly could be going wrong either but he's gonna help me dissect the wall and diagnose the issue. Thanks for the help!
>>
>>2973360
>anon wants a drill press
>suggests a radial drill press
might as well have suggested a mill with a drilling quill
>>
>>2973378
once you get asbestos in your lungs it never gets out, that's the definition of bad. you might be fine, or you might not. it's pretty trivial to avoid breathing it in, though.
>>
>>2974965
JAX Lacquer Remover
>>
How do you even keep your tools from rusting? It's been raining nonstop for months and I'm working in very dirty conditions, tons of rusty panels from the building itself. Even if I clean them today and apply some oil it will look dirty and rusty the next day.
They're the company tools so I won't be giving them my time and clean them every fucking day.

Also how likely is it to get tetanus working all day around rust and getting lots of tiny scratches from metal work?
>>
>>2975003
>Also how likely is it to get tetanus working all day around rust and getting lots of tiny scratches from metal work?

Basically zero, tetanus comes from punctures that seal around the wound
>>
>>2975004
That's a relief, thanks. These are the type of scratches I mean btw, not my pic.

Also I got a fucking water droplet into my even doe I was wearing eye protection, nasty rain water the fell through the roof of a sewage plant. Been freaking out a bit because of that. Summer can't come soon enough.
>>
>>2974987
> never gets out
Sure it does. It just takes a long time, but probably most of it eventually gets out.
Those needles can puncture white blood cells and cause cancer though, and they also cause general damage so minimize your exposure.

It’s similar to heavy metals, your body gets rid of it, just slowly, so your intake levels have to be well below outgo levels or receive the bioaccumulation debuff.
>>
>>2975003
>get tetanus working all day around rust
rust has nothing to do with tetanus
tetanus bacteria live in the soil

Tetanus is caused by bacteria called Clostridium tetani.

https://www.cdc.gov/tetanus/causes/index.html
>>
>>2974178
>It's like the suction is too strong but idk how to fix that, my thermostat doesn't have power levels
It technically does. Fan/Heat mode have low "suction" and Cool mode has higher succ. So it could be 2 problems.

1. Succ too high. If the filter only gets sucked in only during cooling mode, you have to go directly to the blower motor and switch out wires called speed taps to change the succ. You'll have to find out which colored wire means what speed. Lower speeds are good for removing humidity, but too low will cause ice to build up.

2. House and blower is too big and the return is too small. Make return bigger or add a second return, which is much harder to do. I have 2 returns and I had to enlarge one of them because it was noisy as fuck and the air circulation was unbalanced. Or switch to a lower MERV filter like fiberglass, which really isn't a good solution.
>>
Is a quarter inch too wide to fix with caulk?
>>
File: shittypeopledothis.jpg (170 KB, 1440x1800)
170 KB
170 KB JPG
>>2975072
Crown moldings should be attached to the ceilings, not the walls. Unless your picture is upside down, 'cause that gray shit looks more like a floor tile. What the fuck is going on though? Pink, white, and gray? What fucking retard cut that molding? The same retard that takes a photo and then screenshots it? Why are there gaps at all? Every single edge on that looks like an utter dumpster fire. Normally you have to be in congress to fuck something up that badly.

To answer your question, no. Most caulk can handle up to half an inch without needing backer rod. Apply the caulk and wait a full 24 hours before painting. Unless it is cold or moist, in which case you will need to wait longer. If it shrinks or shifts, do another layer and wait another 24 hours before painting. Also, using caulk to fix shitty carpentry is a half-assed, landlord special way of doing things. Don't forget to paint all the outlets, switches, and the thermostat while you are at it.
>>
>>2974737
i'm a service plumber and throw away perfectly good used kitchen/lav faucets(vinergar soak the aerator), toilets(maybe a flapper), softeners(might need a new board or something) all the time because I can't be assed to bother cleaning/reselling. they just go in the dumpster, nobody would care if I kept then. I doubt any company cares if you keep shit that was getting disposed of unless it has personal client information and then they'd only care if something came of it.
>>
>>2974962
yes. they make rubber-cork stoppers you can shove the tube through into the bottle of soap
>>2974971
>Do you fuck your plushies, anon? I don't
i don't have plushies, why do you?
'blah blah blah'
ok gay tranny
>>
>>2975090
Calm down, anon. You sure think about cocks a whole lot for some reason, and you seem pretty miserable . You might wanna get help for that. Good luck!
>>
>>2975080
I ended up using backer rod. Hopefully after paint it passes inspection :-)
>>
>>2975003
>Also how likely is it to get tetanus working all day around rust and getting lots of tiny scratches from metal work?
Wait, is this something I need to worry about? Fuck
>>
>>2975137
the only time i got a tetanus shot was in the emergency room after "shooting" myself with a piece of wood while using a table saw
get a micro cut on your finger is a non-issue as long as you pour hydrogen peroxide on it right after. also use gloves, what are you dumb?
and get a tetanus shot, they last for like 5 years
>>
File: jars_1200x1200.png (317 KB, 900x506)
317 KB
317 KB PNG
>>2974938
>What are some neat uses for them?
where do you think you are
>>
>>2975143
Hydrogen peroxide isn't recommended wound care and hasn't been for like 30 years. It burns up all the peroxidase in your cells and kills everything that was starting to regrow. Clean with soap and water and newsprint bandage.

>>2975137
Scratches aren't really a vector for tetanus. It's an anaerobic bacteria. It will grow in a puncture/hole.

Get a tetanus vaccination
>>
>>2975232
*neosporin bandage
>>
>>2975232
>Hydrogen peroxide isn't recommended wound care and hasn't been for like 30 years.
okay i'll agree to that, just used it cause i'm a slav and it's in every household
>Clean with soap and water
no anon, i'd still disinfect it with something
>>
>>2975269
>i'm a slav
>>2975269
>i'd still disinfect it with something
vodka, it's in every household
>>
>>2975232
>newsprint bandage
Never heard of this. Google has no results. Typo?
>>
>>2975205
giant waifu in a thin neck bottle would actually...
>>
Should I build a 12 ton mobile gantry or just get a 5k forklift? My garage is normal height, 7 ft doors and single story with rafters in the way. I found a 12 ton chain fall for cheap that I haven't bought yet, but my impression is that while the gantry would lift a lot more, it's usable height won't be much (5ft maybe?) inside a 1 story garage because of how large the chain hoist is. the forklift seems cooler but is more initial cost, and is less suited to my heaviest machinery (~6500 lbs) especially since that machinery likely wouldn't get picked up at the 24" center the forklifts are rated for.
The gantry has the added bonus that lifting from above is better for oddly shaped machinery that may tip when lifted from below
>>
File: liftingsolutions.jpg (530 KB, 1920x2560)
530 KB
530 KB JPG
>>2975313
¿por que no los dos?
>>
>>2975319
What's the size of that beam? And how low does it go? I have a street-facing garage so a super tall gantry would only really be useful at the garage doors or just in front of them for unloading trailers or something. If I redid the backyard to be more of a hardpacked dirt like this and had an entrance from the driveway to it, this would make a bit more sense. I like the layout.

According to some manufacturer pamphlets I'd need a 24-30" tall beam for 12-15 tons
>>
File: 1721445065640168.png (679 KB, 873x749)
679 KB
679 KB PNG
>>2975354
>12-15 tons
>residential garage
this is an obvious retarded fantasy larp
the headroom on a 10+ton hoist is 3-5 feet when the hook is two blocked. plus the beams and trolley above would nean the hook would touch lay on the floor
if you were bullshitting on an eastern kazak reed intertwining imageboard youd have already figured out a hyster s80bcs is the gold standard for low headroom practicality
but your rental house likely has a 3" apron with no steel in it in front of the garage that a solid tire forklift with even half load would punch through like when you got you bussy cherry popped
>>
>>2975362
Just because you'd be afraid to take the risks doesn't mean I would
Plus if you're gonna waste a fortune on a forklift model that new you may as well special order a brand new 7' tall 10 ton gantry from Wallace or Vestil
My driveway is gravel anyway so I need to look for truck tires as casters
>>
File: 20230528_163202.jpg (644 KB, 1077x1436)
644 KB
644 KB JPG
>>2975365
just buy a forklift. theyre not hard to fix if broken down either. hyster still stocks all parts for the xl and newer suffixes and about 1/2 of things for the dinosaur c models. get a full freelift mast and youll be able to use it indoors



[Advertise on 4chan]

Delete Post: [File Only] Style:
[Disable Mobile View / Use Desktop Site]

[Enable Mobile View / Use Mobile Site]

All trademarks and copyrights on this page are owned by their respective parties. Images uploaded are the responsibility of the Poster. Comments are owned by the Poster.