How would you fix this?
you can try tightening the packing nut a quarter turn or so which is where it looks like you have it marked as leaking.if that doesnt work you gotta find the curb stop or meter stop to shut the pressure off somewhere upstream. be prepared to possibly replace all the parts down from the brass fitting to the pex. since it ends in pex id go back with all pex crimp fittings after the brass fitting, but theres a bunch of different ways to go from 1" threaded to 1/2" pex
you have a municipal water main without a meter and shut off valve?this looks like it's under a mobile
>>2973937For starters, I'd go get a pressure reducing valve. Running municipal pressure through residential piping is bad, especially with such a fast transition down from 1" to 1/2". Lowering the house pressure down to 40-ish psi will help a lot with water hammer and reduce the stress on all the fittings.So the new run might be like 1" muni main -> 1" prv -> 3/4" shutoff valve -> 1/2" pex to house. Details depend on what's available, but you will probably want to pick up some more pex so you've got it to make connections.
>>2973939My experience with these valves is that touching it could make things worse, and the leaking is currently a slow drip so not that urgent. I'm leaning towards replacing the valve with a heavy-duty ball valve.While I'm at it I may as well replace the rusting steel pipe which seems to me like a ticking time bomb.>>2973945>this looks like it's under a mobileyep>>2973951> For starters, I'd go get a pressure reducing valve. Running municipal pressure through residential piping is bad, especially with such a fast transition down from 1" to 1/2". Lowering the house pressure down to 40-ish psi will help a lot with water hammer and reduce the stress on all the fittings.Thanks, I was not aware of PRV. I do have some water hammer when the laundry machine stops filling which would be nice to get rid of.>So the new run might be like 1" muni main -> 1" prv -> 3/4" shutoff valve -> 1/2" pex to house. Details depend on what's available, but you will probably want to pick up some more pex so you've got it to make connections.I am thinking to locate a 1" ball valve right at the main hose and the PRV on the residence side of that valve, because if the PRV leaks I can just shut-off the water to fix/replace.
>>2973977these also exist just so yah know.do you have a shutoff for the main line or are you installing a ball valve while the water is live?
>>2973937>How would you fix this?I hate plumbing. I wouldn't try to fix it. I have money. I would hire someone to do it.
>>2973981>these also exist just so yah know.Yes, but I think regulating the pressure at the source is better. I recall when I first moved here, the feeling that all the faucets were on a "hair trigger". Still annoys me. I suspect that regulating the pressure will fix that in addition to the water hammer.>do you have a shutoff for the main line or are you installing a ball valve while the water is live?The shutoff serves a block of a few homes. I can request the water turned off.I could also try replacing with the water on - the crawl space dirt floor is decently sloped/drained away from the valve location if I were to let the water flow while replacing the valve.
>>2973939This post here. It's likely just the packing.
shut it off outside and replace
>>2973937Paying for 1 inch and then only using half of it. Sad. In my area you pay extra for a larger input line.>>2973977Yeah, tighten the packing nut. If that doesn't work, have the water shut off and get rid of all the galvanized pipe and put a new valve in. I'd use brass as that is what is on the municipal line. You don't want to mix metals without a dielectric union and its not worth it to save some old galvanized reducers. Using a 1 inch ball valve is a good call. Have the pressure reducer after that. Maybe even consider putting in a second shut off right after the meter while you are doing the work.>>2973951I've only got a 5/8th inch line but the pressure is fantastic. Fucking girlfriend is a ditz and has popped 3 cheap garden hoses by leaving the water on at the tap but 'turning it off' at the sprayer. No water hammer though. The place was built in the 1950s and everything is galvanized and strapped to the walls. They don't build them like this anymore. It would cost too much.
>>2973937The rubber o ring probably rotted, so just replace the valve.>muh mainwalk outside your house to the curb - there should be a small cast iron hatch - lift hatch and slot a socket wrench and twist until water stops.
>>2974209I doubt that dude has a curb. a cast iron hatch, or a valve to turn. Dude is in a mobile home and said the shut of valve feeds several units. Unless you want his corner of the trailer park to get the lynching tree warmed up that is something you want to clear with your neighbors and schedule.
I thought that the water main was a PVC hose but on closer inspection it seems to be blue PEX.Am I safe in assuming that the brass visible in pic related is the 2 parts of a compression fitting that thread together?
>>2974273It looks like a water meter coupling. If it is then The threads joining the brass will be straight and the seal will be made with a rubber washer. You should be able to reuse that brass if you can unthread that galvanized nipple. But you might need a new washer because those things wear out.
