Last Thread: >>2975935Printing bins and things edition.>Your print failed? Go to:www.simplify3d.com/support/print-quality-troubleshooting>Calibrate your printer.ellis3dp.com/Print-Tuning-Guide/teachingtechyt.github.io/calibration.htmlIf that doesn't help you solve your problems, post:>A picture of the failed part>Printer make & model>Filament type/brand>Slicer & slicer settings>What printer should I buy? [52/40/10 :detadpU tsaL]Do your own research, but if you gotta ask; just buy whatever Bambu fits your budget.DIY: reprap.org/wiki/SLA: >>>/tg/3dpg>Where can I get things to print?www.thingiverse.com/thangs.com/printables.com/grabcad.com/www.yeggi.com/cults3d.com/www.stlfinder.com/google.com/T*legr*m>What CAD software should I use?Free to anyone: FreeCAD, Fusion360, Onshape, TinkerCAD,Free to me: Autodesk Inventor, AutoCAD, Solidworks, Rhino, Solid EdgeAutistic /g/oobers: OpenSCAD, OpenJSCAD, CadQueryParticipation medal entries: PTC Creo, SolvespaceMesh free-forming and modeling: BlenderArchitects: Sketchup>What slicer should I use?For everyone: Cura, PrusaSlicer, BambuStudio for Bambu owners.For enthusiasts: SuperSlicer, OrcaSlicerFor autists: Pleccer/SuperPleccer, Kiri:Moto, FullControl, IceSLLegacy Pastebin (Last updated 12-8-2020): pastebin.com/AKqpcyN5 (embed)#380
>>2980188Nice ball texture on your big blue dildo. What filament is it, PLA?
i teach forklift training so thought id up my game
>>2980120Just learn to use your machine, nigger.Bambufags like to claim no one needs to be a mechanic to drive a car when we're talking being able to drive on a highway. Meanwhile bambuniggers crash with 80mph in a 30mph area and start crying when being called the morons they are.
>>2980196>i teach forklift trainingr8 my performance
>0.2mm across a 330x330 bed.fucking overdramatic chart. took me a second to notice the scale of it all.
>>2980201that's what acetylene canisters look like here, i hope they don't look like that over there.
>>2980204that's terrible, anon. 0.02mm would've been acceptable
>>2980207>0.02mm Pathetic. Bed level deviation should always be lower than your smallest nozzle's diameter.
>>2980201the problem will fix itself sooner or later
>>29802018/fun on company hours
>>2980201i cant be compelled to think about safety when im off the clock, anything is legal as long as the cops/safety inspector isnt around
>>2980204Xmax3? I swapped the belts in mine and fucked cutting one too much and need to replace it again. Tearing that cunt down to the top head is annoying as fuck when a q2c is like $350. I love the volume of this fat old bitch though. 6k hours before it really shit the bed.
>>2980252ja.Mine's all greasy on the inside from several thousands of hours printing abs. At most, I've had to tension the belts and some toolhead mainboard fuckery, but that's it.What's that exhaust mod and bushing wiper thing?Were you having issues with the steppers running hot?
>>2980255Exhaust is an activated carbon+hepa filter that's stuck on the back with magnets. Easier to swap charcoal when it's spent since I keep it in bags. When it's sunny I put the spent stuff in the sun for a few days and can reuse it pretty well. I got a q2 so this is pretty much just for my eBay business now. It does what it should. Bushing is filled with uhmw tape. Tried to print a few toolhead carriages from pps-gf but I'm fucking terrible with heat press inserts and I couldn't get a damn thing square. Don't feel like paying 50$ in shipping for a 20$ piece of plastic so I'm just rolling with what I got. I noticed one time during big maintenance last year that the inside of that toolhead carriage had worn itself away and as a result it was wobbly. I tried manual tensioners last year and ended up turbo fucking my whole system, tried to swap back and it's just not the same. Put some heatsinks on the steppers because it's easy and lowers them by like 2-5C. Not much but better than nothing. Wiring up a little fan is the way to go there. Aussie friend offered to ship me a brand new gantry+belts but it's like 100$ to ship and a fuckton of work to break it down that far so I said fuck it. Gonna use up all the nozzles and hot ends I have and donate it or some shit.
Democrats are trying to ban 3D printinghttps://www.dont-ban-3dprinters.com/
The filament dryer on prusa's website costs more than most of the printers. Since im not trying to print any superpolymers that melt at 400C can i just use a regular toaster oven or air fryer ect?
>>2980265Toasters and air fryers probably get way too hot. You should be looking at a food dehydrator. Can be found at thrift stores or you can get a pretty good one on amazon for like $100 that can fit probably 4 rolls at a time if you take the trays out. It looks pretty similar to your attached photo.
>>2980266My temp range was probably fucked up because i saw this oven claim 300C for up to 99 days. I didnt think dehydrators would get warm enough but il look into them. Really anything is better than some of these people suggesting lab equipment that use 1kWh
>>2980267Some of these dehydrators go to like 175f or higher. At like 6-8 hours I dont think theres a single material that wont be at maybe 10% RH unless its just drenched. I was using one of those single spool creality dryers and it was a pain in the ass to set. The dehydrators have very easy to use buttons to set the time and temp. Easily do PETG and TPU, but havent had to mess with more exotic stuff so not sure.
>>2980265Apparently air-friers with accurate and precise enough temperature setting are quite good for filament drying. Their strong airflow probably makes for more uniform heat distribution than a food dehydrator, those have been demonstrated to have quite a temperature difference between the layers.I think ideally you have something that can rotate the spool while it dries, but that implies a vertical design. It’s also quite important to be able to extract the humidity from the drier as it’s driven out of the filament. Most machines do this by venting some of their air, but the more you vent the more power you need to pump into the chamber to keep it warm. Alternatively, you could use a desiccant to absorb this moisture, so long as the elevated temperatures don’t drive the moisture out of the desiccant. From what I’ve seen, silica gel and activated alumina will not work for this, but molecular sieves probably will. Alternatively, you could add a counter-flow heat-exchanger between the inlet and exhaust, such that it gets fresh air and exhaust without losing heat. I do not know if any drying solutions that do this, for filament or otherwise.Any venting filament drier is fundamentally limited by the ambient absolute humidity. Drying nylon in a cool dry inland environment? Easy shit, the high delta T makes the relative humidity within the heated ambient air very low. Drying silk PLA in a humid and hot coastal tropical hell-hole? Good luck, the low delta T makes for a minimal reduction in relative humidity once the fresh air is heated. Your situation probably falls somewhere in the middle, but I’d be aiming for no greater than 10-15% relative humidity for the heated air. You can calculate this from a psychrometric chart from your initial humidity, initial temperature, and final temperature. Or with roflb.ch.As an example, 55% humidity at 25C is 12.6g/m^3, which at 60C makes for about 10% humidity, which would be good for PETG drying.
>>2980265Just get a sunlu whatever dryer. make sure it reaches the temps you need.fucking around with dehydrators microwaves and air fryers is no longer worth it. a lot of dryers are good and cheap now.
>>2980270Nylons can need hotter, see:https://youtu.be/y3rMgwOCAi8?si=68i3hZtPZZwdBoVAI’m not sure how the relative humidity of the air interacts with the relative humidity of the filament. The nylon being tested was up at 10% moisture by weight after being fully soaked, so I guess there’s a factor of ten or so. That means with nylon you’re aiming for 2%RH to get the filament the desired 0.2% moisture by weight. At 70C that means an ambient humidity at 25C of 17%, which is pretty hard to hit without living in Arizona, or somewhere damn cold. Up at 95C it’s 44% at 25C, which is pretty doable if you pick a good day.>>2980272Eh, I wouldn’t recommend the filament driers without a fan for forced airflow, like the Sunlu S1/S2. At least not if they’re anything like the Esun eBOX Lite. DC powered ones like this also often lack heating power, and so only vent from a tiny hole so the temperature doesn’t drop, often resulting in internal condensation imyig inadequate ventilation. The AC-powered forced-air driers like the Creality Space Pi are good, at least up to 70C. Some still have small vents, but at least you can enlarge them and the heater will be able to handle it. Either way you can add some foam insulation to the outside of the drier to reduce the load the heater is under, and to improve the heating uniformity.
>>2980273>Nylons can need hotter>insert elon's engineers worst mistake speech hereNylons shouldn't be used in an FDM fashion to begin with. The endless fight against moisture, in it's printed form, and therefore deformation make it entirely worthless for any application that does not sit in a tightly controlled environment. Strength is just tensile anyway, it gets eaten by PET for layer adhesion, nevermind price.And the funniest thing is we also have already solved this problem. If you really need nylon, just order an MJF piece, after your prototype, with none of the downsides.
