>>2980188
Nice ball texture on your big blue dildo. What filament is it, PLA?

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i teach forklift training so thought id up my game

>>2980120
Just learn to use your machine, nigger.
Bambufags like to claim no one needs to be a mechanic to drive a car when we're talking being able to drive on a highway. Meanwhile bambuniggers crash with 80mph in a 30mph area and start crying when being called the morons they are.

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>>2980196
>i teach forklift training
r8 my performance

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>0.2mm across a 330x330 bed.
fucking overdramatic chart. took me a second to notice the scale of it all.

>>2980201
that's what acetylene canisters look like here, i hope they don't look like that over there.

>>2980204
that's terrible, anon. 0.02mm would've been acceptable

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>>2980207
>0.02mm
Pathetic. Bed level deviation should always be lower than your smallest nozzle's diameter.

>>2980201
the problem will fix itself sooner or later

>>2980201
8/fun on company hours

>>2980201
i cant be compelled to think about safety when im off the clock,
anything is legal as long as the cops/safety inspector isnt around

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>>2980204
Xmax3? I swapped the belts in mine and fucked cutting one too much and need to replace it again. Tearing that cunt down to the top head is annoying as fuck when a q2c is like $350. I love the volume of this fat old bitch though. 6k hours before it really shit the bed.

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>>2980252
ja.
Mine's all greasy on the inside from several thousands of hours printing abs.
At most, I've had to tension the belts and some toolhead mainboard fuckery, but that's it.
What's that exhaust mod and bushing wiper thing?
Were you having issues with the steppers running hot?

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>>2980255
Exhaust is an activated carbon+hepa filter that's stuck on the back with magnets. Easier to swap charcoal when it's spent since I keep it in bags. When it's sunny I put the spent stuff in the sun for a few days and can reuse it pretty well. I got a q2 so this is pretty much just for my eBay business now. It does what it should.

Bushing is filled with uhmw tape. Tried to print a few toolhead carriages from pps-gf but I'm fucking terrible with heat press inserts and I couldn't get a damn thing square. Don't feel like paying 50$ in shipping for a 20$ piece of plastic so I'm just rolling with what I got. I noticed one time during big maintenance last year that the inside of that toolhead carriage had worn itself away and as a result it was wobbly. I tried manual tensioners last year and ended up turbo fucking my whole system, tried to swap back and it's just not the same. Put some heatsinks on the steppers because it's easy and lowers them by like 2-5C. Not much but better than nothing. Wiring up a little fan is the way to go there.

Aussie friend offered to ship me a brand new gantry+belts but it's like 100$ to ship and a fuckton of work to break it down that far so I said fuck it. Gonna use up all the nozzles and hot ends I have and donate it or some shit.

Democrats are trying to ban 3D printing
https://www.dont-ban-3dprinters.com/

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The filament dryer on prusa's website costs more than most of the printers. Since im not trying to print any superpolymers that melt at 400C can i just use a regular toaster oven or air fryer ect?

>>2980265
Toasters and air fryers probably get way too hot. You should be looking at a food dehydrator. Can be found at thrift stores or you can get a pretty good one on amazon for like $100 that can fit probably 4 rolls at a time if you take the trays out. It looks pretty similar to your attached photo.

>>2980266
My temp range was probably fucked up because i saw this oven claim 300C for up to 99 days.
I didnt think dehydrators would get warm enough but il look into them. Really anything is better than some of these people suggesting lab equipment that use 1kWh

>>2980267
Some of these dehydrators go to like 175f or higher. At like 6-8 hours I dont think theres a single material that wont be at maybe 10% RH unless its just drenched. I was using one of those single spool creality dryers and it was a pain in the ass to set. The dehydrators have very easy to use buttons to set the time and temp. Easily do PETG and TPU, but havent had to mess with more exotic stuff so not sure.

>>2980265
Apparently air-friers with accurate and precise enough temperature setting are quite good for filament drying. Their strong airflow probably makes for more uniform heat distribution than a food dehydrator, those have been demonstrated to have quite a temperature difference between the layers.

I think ideally you have something that can rotate the spool while it dries, but that implies a vertical design. It’s also quite important to be able to extract the humidity from the drier as it’s driven out of the filament. Most machines do this by venting some of their air, but the more you vent the more power you need to pump into the chamber to keep it warm. Alternatively, you could use a desiccant to absorb this moisture, so long as the elevated temperatures don’t drive the moisture out of the desiccant. From what I’ve seen, silica gel and activated alumina will not work for this, but molecular sieves probably will. Alternatively, you could add a counter-flow heat-exchanger between the inlet and exhaust, such that it gets fresh air and exhaust without losing heat. I do not know if any drying solutions that do this, for filament or otherwise.

Any venting filament drier is fundamentally limited by the ambient absolute humidity. Drying nylon in a cool dry inland environment? Easy shit, the high delta T makes the relative humidity within the heated ambient air very low. Drying silk PLA in a humid and hot coastal tropical hell-hole? Good luck, the low delta T makes for a minimal reduction in relative humidity once the fresh air is heated. Your situation probably falls somewhere in the middle, but I’d be aiming for no greater than 10-15% relative humidity for the heated air. You can calculate this from a psychrometric chart from your initial humidity, initial temperature, and final temperature. Or with roflb.ch.
As an example, 55% humidity at 25C is 12.6g/m^3, which at 60C makes for about 10% humidity, which would be good for PETG drying.

>>2980265
Just get a sunlu whatever dryer. make sure it reaches the temps you need.
fucking around with dehydrators microwaves and air fryers is no longer worth it. a lot of dryers are good and cheap now.

>>2980270
Nylons can need hotter, see:
https://youtu.be/y3rMgwOCAi8?si=68i3hZtPZZwdBoVA

I’m not sure how the relative humidity of the air interacts with the relative humidity of the filament. The nylon being tested was up at 10% moisture by weight after being fully soaked, so I guess there’s a factor of ten or so. That means with nylon you’re aiming for 2%RH to get the filament the desired 0.2% moisture by weight. At 70C that means an ambient humidity at 25C of 17%, which is pretty hard to hit without living in Arizona, or somewhere damn cold. Up at 95C it’s 44% at 25C, which is pretty doable if you pick a good day.

>>2980272
Eh, I wouldn’t recommend the filament driers without a fan for forced airflow, like the Sunlu S1/S2. At least not if they’re anything like the Esun eBOX Lite. DC powered ones like this also often lack heating power, and so only vent from a tiny hole so the temperature doesn’t drop, often resulting in internal condensation imyig inadequate ventilation. The AC-powered forced-air driers like the Creality Space Pi are good, at least up to 70C. Some still have small vents, but at least you can enlarge them and the heater will be able to handle it. Either way you can add some foam insulation to the outside of the drier to reduce the load the heater is under, and to improve the heating uniformity.

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>>2980273
>Nylons can need hotter
>insert elon's engineers worst mistake speech here
Nylons shouldn't be used in an FDM fashion to begin with. The endless fight against moisture, in it's printed form, and therefore deformation make it entirely worthless for any application that does not sit in a tightly controlled environment. Strength is just tensile anyway, it gets eaten by PET for layer adhesion, nevermind price.
And the funniest thing is we also have already solved this problem. If you really need nylon, just order an MJF piece, after your prototype, with none of the downsides.

>>2980275
Ok yeah fair enough, it’s lack of creep-resistance is indicative of the hamfisted solution of cramming a flexible plastic full of fibres to stop it warping. I know you can keep paying more for materials like PAHT, PPA, and PPS, at least that last one might have some benefit if you’re needing chemical resistance, but the price of them doesn’t really lend itself to rapid prototyping. Test the fit in something easy to print and order it from a professional. Unless it’s le gun parts I guess.

I’d rather see printers move towards hotter heated chambers for the purpose of printing non-fibre reinforced plastics. Like nylon and PET, but also more obscure plastics. Maybe that should be the domain of a pellet extruder printer, so you can take advantage of virgin pellet prices. But the weight of your toolhead makes any sort of multi-material system pretty difficult, for supports or whatever. CNC felt tip marker for support interfaces, or maybe laser charring.

I think my personal desire to be able to print something like PPS isn’t rational. But man, they should make more engineering filaments with coextruded/core fibres. Significantly better layer adhesion and somewhat less issue with filament moisture.

>>2980275
90C is good 'nuff for nylons, yeah?

>>2980288
PPS becomes boring pretty fast once you get one of those meme bells handed over, when they allow you to crush it and you realise just *how* brittle it is. It flakes like lacquer splatter, weird stuff.
>regular PET
I don't see it, it's viscosity is just too low. As seen as in every pet bottle recycling project ever, it looks like shit without precisely dialed in. To market that to the average joe in all his living climates you need to build a printer which completely opposes the average PLA shenanigans, which we see manufacturers already struggle with.
>fiber core PET
Haven't had a chance to get my hands on some yet, alas without paying out my own purse, but i have high expectations. On paper it seems like the perfect combination, maybe only superseded by continuous fiber.

I doubt we move on from top tier shelf being FDM PC, POM and SLS/MJF PA, TPU anytime soon though. At most, current events will push PA11 and other non crude oil alternatives onto next formnext.

>>2980307
Probably needs a whole asterisk for
>metal printing
but i think that's a different topic.

>>2980196
where's the little dude so you can teach STAY IN THE FUCKING CAGE. also you need 1000 more pallets so you can play warehouse collapse.

>>2980271
no fucking way spools fit in air fryers. also neither temp nor timer is accurate on my air fryer and it's a medium-high tier.

>>2980288
>PPS
I still have about $80 of this stuff in a bin somewhere.
I printed a benchy, the thing I needed from it, and two replacements.
>>2980307
You're not wrong, though it also depends quite heavily on the temperature. Since most people are using bambu x1c's they print it at 300c in an unheated chamber.
at 65c chamber and 330 nozzle it's about as strong interlayer as abs. Still not great, but that's not it's main purpose.

>>2980273
>posting tracking links on 4chan.

>>2980314
>Since most people are using bambu x1c's
I highly doubt that. Bambuniggers are generally too stupid for advanced materials. Wouldn't even be surprised if Ultimaker beat them by raw numbers.

>>2980319
>Aktually you have to be highly intelligent to use a real 3D printer.
Nigga, you just tweak numbers in the slicer, google shit and hope for the best 9 times out of 10. Don't pretend.

>>2980323
At least we agree.

>>2980319
copium

>>2980335
chat is this real?

>>2980335
An ender 3 with a 2040 y axis, I wonder how many of us there are left.

>>2980313
>I paid extra for a cooking appliance that has an inaccurate thermostat and clock.

>>2980323
>bambuniggers
>google
Don't pretend.

>>2980307
>PPS becomes boring pretty fast once you get one of those meme bells handed over
If anything, it’s the strength at high temperatures that’s attractive about PAHT and PPS. Engine bays and such.
>PC
Great mechanical properties, but from what I’ve seen of retro PC restorations it’s terrible when exposed to UV. PC-ABS blends mitigate this somewhat, but I’d be interested to see PC-ASA blends. Or just having a proper UV-stabilising additive. I’ve also seen PMMA filament, generally I’ve known it to have worse mechanical properties than PC but it might have its uses.
>POM
I’ve got a roll of the stuff I’m too afraid to start printing with. Well also I don’t need it for now, but if my lazy-susan bearing is too crunchy for an equatorial mount I may open it up. From what I’ve seen of people 5 years ago printing the stuff, it’s warp-prone and doesn’t stick well to beds, but it will be interesting to see how modern machines with heated chambers and modern build surfaces/glues handle it. I know Prusa sell a build plate specifically for polypropylene, which is also a useful engineering material.
>TPU
Lots of room for improvement here too. 95A seems to be a sweet spot for a decent amount of engineering uses, but much softer and much harder TPUs also have promising properties. That the layer adhesion of that 72D TPU (possible PA blend) was worse than 95A was disappointing, considering I’d like to see something more like an 80D or 90D to be used as a PC substitute. Hee extremely soft TPUs are probably stuck in the realm of pellet extruders, though 3mm filaments might get you closer.

>>2980308
Yeah, and for the most part they’re out of reach of consumers. If we’re ordering from a fab house we don’t care about the printing properties, just that they can deliver a part to spec. That said, electrochemical 3D printing (basically selective electroplating) as the possibility to be cheap and small and low-temperature.

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>cleaning out filament bins.
>find unopened spool of CF nylon from nearly a decade ago.
>finally decide to use it and throw it in dryer for 9 hours.
100 bed, 265 nozzle per the spool, 55 chamber, and it printed this.
what in the everloving fuck. Filament is now discontinued, but still. it behaves like slightly stiffer tpu72d, almost polyethylene like. No matter how I twist it I can't even get it to show crazing, let alone layer separation. It returns to its shape easily, and short of cutting it I can't tear the layer lines apart.
Esun EasyPA (EPA). https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08RS3FB37
the "20%" carbon fibers might as well just be printer toner carbon black, for this is less stiff than just straight nylon.
tldr I printed a useless tray out a discontinued filament and am amused by its properties. I've still got ~800g of the stuff, rec me models for this weird thing.

>>2980406
I was under the impression that EasyPA had no fibres, but it looks like eSun’s filament is meant to. No clue what happened, whether it be a batch issue or some sort of degradation in storage, but at least you can test for presence of fibres by listening for them when cutting through it. You can also compare its flexural modulus to that of the datasheet.

From the video that looks much less stiff than 72D, but I guess it depends on the wall thickness.

>>2980388
>PPS
It wasn't the bell i was focusing on, without fabric reinforcements, or at least glued to the backside, i wouldn't trust it all. Nevermind inside a fucking engine bay.
>TPU
That wasn't meant as FDM suggestion. Powder based TPU prints are miles ahead of FDM. Same as aforementioned PA.
>electrochemical 3D printing
Love to see it, although i don't know a use case yet, besides marketing/branding.

>>2980307
>only superseded by continuous fiber
Wasn't that supposed to be a thing for everyone by the end of last year? Whatever happened to that, more stratasys shenanigans?

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>>2980426
It may not look like it, but I am exerting quite a bit of force in the epa-cf video. Here's an unscientific slowmo of 72D tpu (shiny) and the esun epa-cf. https://files.catbox.moe/w5731v.mp4 Can't be arsed to webm. CC3D's 72D is indeed a nylon tpu blend and it is amusing in its own right. what I find so amusing about the epacf is it's basically as strong interlayer as the 72D but stiff enough to be a "stiff" filament.
Maybe over the weekend I might have time to both print a bin out of the 72d tpu along with some three point bending bars, and spend four or five hours looking for my dial indicator.
pic unrel.
>>2980552
the printers that have been marketed print like absolute shit with hardly any appreciable benefits per current tests. don't think any companies have been gullible enough as of yet, and the consumer ones are far from affordable enough.
to add to this, it appears the industry's focus for technical filaments is on support interfaces so dual nozzle/idex setups are becoming much more common. outside of that it's multicolor printing.

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>>2980449
>he doesn't 3d print parts of his airplane.
https://hackaday.com/2025/12/10/failed-3d-printed-part-brings-down-small-plane/

>>2980562
fugging catbox.
https://imgur.com/a/ZpvUIYT

>>2980564
Dumbass didn't use PLA+.

>>2980576
The part was claimed to be CF-ABS by the seller, good to 100C. The actual part softened at low-mid 50s C when tested. The problem isn't that the part was 3D printed (3D printed airplane parts are not new), it's that someone up the supply chain was apparently trying to get away with fraud in a safety-critical application.

>>2980580
Yeah from what I read it was almost certainly PLA. If it was CF-PLA, it probably could have been annealed for ~150C heat resistance without warping, I assume it wasn't.

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humour.
>>2980580

thermodynami-cysts of /3dpg/, I've had this eibos dryer for a few years now but only recently acquired the tech to verify it's claims. I haven't had any issues with it, but I'm wondering if filling the empty space where the second spool would go help the heating of the spool I'm printing from. I only ever use the second set of rollers when I'm printing with 3kg spools, and that's mostly pla and abs 3kg spools so drying doesnt matter all that much.
The ui is set to 70c, but the spool is only 60C, at best.

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>>2980595
Kinda what I'm thinking out of pps-cf. obviously it would be hollow and single walled.

>>2980595
It wouldn't help the heating, but it would speed up the air flow. If it works, it works. If you want to be sure, check with a total immersion lab thermometer in the dryer.

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>>2980564
$20 bucks says this guy ordered via some chinaprint and got chang'd to save a nickel. so he as the qualifying agent failed to properly inspect the equipment and now will catch a hefty fine on top of injury for being a dipshit
despite planes being expensive most plane owning faggots are notoriously so tight they squeak

>>2980595
having more mass in the chamber means longer to get to temp and more residual heat after. adding a "wet" spool will affect it more. as it changes the humidity, retarding the effectiveness. a mass of silica would be your best use for the space as it would increase the drying and prolong the heat retention (assuming that even mattered in the first place). alternatively see if one rack or the other is the better drying position for a single roll.

>>2980618
is he fucking TOWING the plane with an outboard in a fucking rowboat? we never should have stopped smoking.

>>2980618
I'm fairly sure he bought it from a stall at an aviation show, or maybe the previous owner of the plane did. Do the chinks even bother printing FDM carbon fibre parts, instead of a powder technology?

>>2980260
Fucking Democrats

>>2980618
>$20 bucks says this guy ordered via some chinaprint
>>2980564
>https://hackaday.com/2025/12/10/failed-3d-printed-part-brings-down-small-plane/
>the owner of the aircraft purchased the part at an airshow in the USA
Want to pay in crypto or cash?

>>2980624
>?
Cease your investigations.

>>2980260
Not clicking your link, but from what Google says they're trying to ban 3D printing of firearms. I'm a conservative, a Republican, and a gunsmith, and if they do then I truly don't give a fuck. If you do, the only reason is that you don't have the skills to do it the old fashioned way.

>>2980659
I sometimes envy the mentally deficient.
You do understand the bills bans mills as well? And any machine that is capable of via aditive or subtractive processes manufacture a firearm.

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>>2980659
>they're trying to ban 3D printing of firearms
by mandating that every machine that has any kind of programming (your aunt's cricut joy for example) have to check in with a centralized federal server and upload the information to be compared to a database of prints. as a healthy dick sucking republican "centralized federal server" should be the LEAST part that makes you mald.

>>2980661
>>2980668
Stop replying to niggers, please.

I've had an Ender 3 Pro for 8 years and an Ender 3 Max Neo for 4 years. I'm making a bit more money than I was in the past, and, after troubleshooting a warping issue on the Max Neo for hours, I think it's finally time to upgrade to something nicer.

I've been seeing the stuff around Bambu locking firmware, and some weird legislation coming out, so I don't want something that's zogged to shit, what's the recommendation for something that's nicer than Creality, but not riddled with AIDS like Bambu?

Ideally I'd have at least a 300x300mm print bed, but 400x400 would be better since I've been doing some larger prototyping.

>>2980668
It’s actually kinda ambiguous whether the spyware has to be on the hardware or on the software that generates the g-code. Because it’s pretty hard to tell that something is a firearm component from the g-code file, even if you have a list of known 3D printed gun files it would be tough to render each c-code. CMC mill g-codes would be easier to render, but trivial to make a part outside of their ban list.
If the spyware was in the slicer, it would be much easier to detect firearm adjacent componentry. And arguably easier to legislate on than chinese hardware, if the age verification requirements on Linux end up having any teeth.

Still, the whole thing seems like a logical impossibility. At worst they catch a few retards with no opsec trying to make a liberator or fgc 9.

>>2980732
SV08, maybe the larger Anycubic enclosed printer that got released recently, maybe something from Qidi if you want a heated chamber (just not their most recent 3 pro max or whatever it’s called).

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>>2980645
6 dairy queen coupons

>>2980736
>it’s pretty hard to tell
literally the problem the program will be totally ineffective and the standards are asinine so it's just a totalitarian overreach that will mostly affect people who aren't making guns

>>2980829
Don't worry anon. If you get caught, you'll get the same treatment as 40x repeat offenders that get caught with glock switches. You'll be out on personal recognizance and nothing will come of it.

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I've gone through like three of these cables, finally decided to do something about it while I had 72d tpu loaded in the machine.
>>2980675
no, u.

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This is the only filament dryer that uses a white system? Has no chink copied it yet?

>>2980863
Well today i learned shu te is a filtered word. Anyway any kind of valve system that doesn't require silica balls.

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>>2980863
that looks retarded.

So arches don't print well but what about small arches? Is there any thing I can do to make them more printable without supports?

>>2980884
Teardrop.

>>2980889
This one is a model so it has to be an arch.
It's quite tall too so supports would take too long and use a lot of material.

>>2980863
>>2980864
You mean the vent that can be opened and closed by servo? Yeah it’s neat, especially if you have a seperate drying and storage mode, but I think otherwise you can just tune the size of a static vent. Also Polymaker’s polydrier might have a controllable vent, I’m not sure. Using desiccant barely works because up at 50-70C silica gel releases its stored moisture. Not sure about activated alumina.

I was going to wonder why they were bothering to have an internal humidity sensor since those always measure just from 10-90%, but apparently the SHT3x sensors measure down to 0% and can probably survive 120C temperatures. Damn I need to get me some of those.

>>2980884
Arches imply shallow overhangs, so part cooling really matters. But beyond that, if you can make the majority of the arch flat on top, you can bridge it instead, which most printers handle much better than shallow overhangs.

>>2980884
Get a little closer to the bed and if your slicer lets you heat early layers hotter do that, easier to bridge with better adhesion

>>2980901
Is there a way to change the orientation? Upside down or on its side should be ok for any size of arc.
Different material. Something you can blast with your fan to cool down faster.
Change the wall printing order. Use inner/outer for best overhangs. And an arch is kind of like two overhangs that just kiss in the middle.

>>2980903
>>2980904
>>2980905
This is a pic of what I'm trying to print, each of those slots are 4 mm wide, that's the diameter of the arches. This is at the very top of a 25 cm tall piece. These slots go all the way to near bottom of it. Right now they're made from semi circles. I could flatten them a bit, so they're wider than they're tall.
>https://litter.catbox.moe/5h24cj.png

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>>2980908
if it's your model, you could design it directly with support in the file.
Behold! my mighty paint skills.
>red is your arc
>green is support
You should be able to bridge 4mm easily. And then you can put your arch support on your support bridge.
This is the easiest way to save on filament, while still printing with support.

>>2980909
I can give that a shot. How thick and tall do you suggest those beams should be? I already said the arches span 4 mm, the walls are 2 mm and I'm printing with 0.2 mm layers.
But I don't understand how that would be better, doesn't printing the entire bottom support at once, in a single layer, covering 4 mm unsupported be worse than printing the arch?

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>>2980913
>How thick
I would say 2 maybe 3 layers wide for the vertical support and 4 or 5 for the vertical bridge.
>and tall do you suggest those beams should be?
I would start a bridge right beneath the part where the two sides start to "lean" into the middle.
>doesn't printing the entire bottom support at once, in a single layer, covering 4 mm unsupported be worse than printing the arch?
here is the thing. You can get away with quite a lot of bridging, compared to arching. The bad part with arching isn't the unsupported part where you are crossing from one side to the other, but rather the couple of layers right beneath the final bridge. Because that's where the biggest overhang happens.
See pic related for what I mean. On the left side you got an arch and the red circle is the layer with the most overhang. You can see how it wants to sag more than the layer above it that has even less support. But this layer actually bridges from one side to the other.
On the right side you got a bridge that is 10mm wide (sorry for the bad focus) and no real problem bridging it. Yeah, the first 2 or 3 layers sag maybe a little bit, but layer 4 and 5 are already horizontal again.
And just FYI this benchy was printed with ASA+. PLA is even better at bridging and overhangs because you can blast it with your fan 100% to cool it down even faster.
And I wouldn't even worry about your 4mm arch. Actually you might get away without any kind of support.
Hope you learned something anyway. Good luck and happy printing.

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>>2980913
And here are some general CAD design tips that might be helpful.

>>2980931
Thanks for the pic and explanation, much appreciated.
Mine is from ABS and I couldn't do it without support (I printed a little test arch, just a slice of the full model, didn't work). The arch used to be 10 mm apart, then 6 and now 4 and I can't really make it any smaller at this point. The piece is supposed to be as open as possible.
This notebook can't handle how complex the model is getting by now so I'll try getting it done tomorrow on another PC I have access.
>>2980932
>sacrificial ribs
Oh, those are easier to model. I'll try that too.

>>2980908
client not found why not just post the image? also have you considered printing it upside down or making the arches separately?

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>>2980884
Gothic arches. Possibly with a flat bridge at the top.

>>2980187
The fumes from denatured alcohol seem to affect me more than the fumes from the resin. I do wear a respirator with organic filters but the smell seems to cling to my skin.

Should I DIY a fume extractor? Not with a brushed motor obviously...

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Just bought a Saturn 4 Ultra 16k after waffling back and forth considering getting a 3d resin printer for like a year now. Saw it was on sale on Elegoo's website and finally stopped being a little bitch about it. Ordered a wash/cure station as well, then went on Amazon for the rest of the shit (namely an enclosure). Now that everything's en route, I figure I'll ask anon:
What's the single biggest fuckup-thwarting trick (You) have added to your arsenal? Regardless of how big or small it is, is there one niche bit of knowledge or gear you swear by other than the usual suspects?

>>2980903
>You mean the vent that can be opened and closed by servo?
Pretty much. I very much distrust silica gel after learning the industry completely shitting on it. If they don't use it, why should i?
>Polymaker’s polydrier might have a controllable vent
Nah, there seems to be a mod for it though.

It's a bit weird the consumer side hasn't catched up, or rather stagnated since summer in general.

>>2980944
>>2980945
>>>/tg/3dpg
They're a bit more active on resin over and please stop killing yourself and get proper air filtration.

>>2980951
>They're a bit more active on resin over
Ah, I hadn't thought to check /tg/ when I was looking for the right board for 3d printing; thanks, anon

>>2980944
>Denatured alcohol fumes are toxic, highly flammable, and cause dizziness, headaches, nausea, eye watering, and respiratory irritation
. Due to methanol content, inhalation can lead to central nervous system depression or, in extreme cases, blindness or death. Always use in well-ventilated areas or outdoors, avoiding confined spaces.
um, yeah. resin fumes aren't toxic but everyone develops resin sensitivity if they're exposed to it. idk if the full face masks some youtoobers wear is necessary, I'm pretty sure it's not but yeah if you were worried about resin smell and not alcohol killing you you were looking the wrong way crossing the street.

>>2980951
>>It's a bit weird the consumer side hasn't catched up, or rather stagnated since summer in general.
Things like the Sunlu E2 are pushing the boundaries of temperature, I'm tempted to get one since I get a staff discount where I work. But the lack of controllable vents, or any humidity feedback really, is definitely not optimal.
Bambu only somewhat recently made a printer with a controllable vent for printing PLA with the door closed, I expect the same idea will trickle down to filament driers sooner or later.

The iDryer seems to be an unusually obscure project for what it claims to do, for much cheaper than an E2, possibly even cheaper than a standard good drier like the Space Pi. Though I have my doubts about whether that fan will last at the 80C+ temperatures it's going to be immersed in, and the fully printed case isn't the most robust design for something that gets that hot. I'd probably buy some Sunlu ABS-FR if I was going to make that project, but I think it would be even smarter to make a sheet metal case so I wouldn't have to worry about it softening. Maybe a double-layered case with insulation in the gap to save power for multi-day drying, that aircrete I saw NightHawkInLight make seems like a suitable material.

I'd also like to see someone rigorously test the iDryer, especially for hot-spots, but also just for performance vs a passively ventilated drier.

>>2980953
they're also stupid unhelpful faggots mostly, not like us smart sophisticated gents who don't dally in resin.

>>2980957
>for printing PLA with the door closed
am I not supposed to be?

>>2980958
>am I not supposed to be?
For long prints with a heated bed, with a closed door and lid, the chamber temperature gets above ~55C, the glass transition temperature of PLA. It will then cease it's ability to hold a good shape as it is printed. Up until that point, your overhangs and bridging will suffer, and your chance of heat-creep causing a clog in your hot end increase too. If you have the lid off, or are running one of those cold plates like biqu frostbite or gecko-tape, you should be fine. And for short prints it's not generally an issue. Having a big printer with a segmented heated bed helps too.

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>>2980958
>am I not supposed to be?
depends on how well the printer can exhaust excess heat, handle heat creep in the extruder, your extrusion cooling solution, and where the cold air is being taken in from.
There is a benefit to printing PLA at ~30-35C ambient temps if you can deal with a loss of quality. On large prints with tall thin walls being printed fast it can also keep warping from happening, though the excess heat can in itself cause warping.
One of my bins printed out of hs-PLA has a slight bow to it because I left the door open but forgot to remove the lid, so it led to some weird temp gradient.
But you can also get warping from excess heat, the print itself might fail to cool properly the prior layer, or it could lead to extrusion issues if the heatbreak proves insufficient and the material in the extruder gears softens.
tldr, just open the damn thing.

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how do I design threads for PLA printing?
Do I really have to draw it up to precise specs - nuts need special tolerances (forgot what it's called).
How much difficulty will I encounter printing parts with no tolerance?

>>2980984
Just look up a tutorial on youtube. It's so easy a woman could do it.
>How much difficulty will I encounter printing parts with no tolerance
They just won't fit at all.

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This "measure backlash when probing" feature in Marlin seems like it wouldn't work for a BL-touch, no? Maybe an inductive sensor or something else, but it seems to me like there's no way of measuring the backlash of the Z screws independently from the backlash of the probe.

>>2980984
>how do I design threads for PLA printing
you make a solid wall then tap it, or just selftap with the metal thread and a little bit of heat.

>>2980957
>Bambuniggers now think they invented vents and others are copying them off.
>sheet metal on an dehumidifier
And then they complain when we call them stupid.

>>2980984
a good rule of thumb for external threads is nominal OD - (0.1 * pitch), for instance an M12 would be 12 - (0.1 * 1.75) = 11.825. for imperial threads, instead of 0.1 you use the average toenail thickness west of east

>>2981001
I'm not saying they invented them, just that it's the first time I've seen automatically actuated vents on a consumer 3D printing product, so it's probably more likely that someone will apply the same idea to a filament drier now than it was before. Not a bambufag, currently driving my ender 3 into the ground with another upgrade.
>sheet metal on an dehumidifier
Yes, nice sheet steel for high temperature resistance. Fibreglass panels would work too, copper-clad FR4 could even be soldered together and/or have heating elements etched into their copper for extremely even heating, but thin sheet steel would be the cheapest. Shame ammo boxes aren't very cheap where I live, nor tall enough. You'd have two layers of the steel, with an inch air gap full of fibreglass wool or some other insulator (maybe aircrete as I suggested earlier because I can't buy less than a few cubic feet of fibreglass wool) it would retain heat excellently Maybe the outside layer can be plastic. Though if someone can direct me to cheap plastic containers that can handle 120C without losing their strength or decomposing over time, that would be ideal for the inner wall too. Just buy two containers of slightly different sizes and nest them for an insulating gap, maybe to leave as air, maybe to fill with insulation. Just having air between two ikea tubs being used as snapmaker U1 lids seemed to do a good job from what I saw online.

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>>2981002
I got something good enough within tolerance with a janky onshape plugin.
it'll do

>>2981008
but seriously all I wanted was to find a library of files and just chop parts to fit my design.
why I no can find?!

>>2981009
because you touch yourself at night and use an online environment.
When you export to stl make sure the cad program actually modeled the threads, they don't always unless you select some setting to do so.

>>2980196
>Forklift trainer
Don't forget to show them Gabelstaplerfahrer Klaus

>>2981021
It's mandatory
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o1BAiJIaezc

>>2980984
in fusion 360 you need to model the thread tool and then reduce the faces of the threads.

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Anyone tried foaming TPU? What's the best brand? This shit looks incredible

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>>2981032
I have a spool of it I somewhere, I think.
I too wanted to use it for inserts on pelican cases, but the impetus kinda fell apart considering the things I've got in those already have the included foam picked into the correct shape.
The use I will give to it eventually is for anything that needs a foot pad/feet bumpers, apparently it grips well.
From what I've read, it prints like shit not matter what you do.

Anyone have a Bambu H2D or a printer with a chamber heater? Probably going to be printing in ABS soon. Have printed some parts in the past that were pretty blocky that didn't warp, but had some prototypes of other parts that did warp without chamber heating. Curious as to whether chamber heating and a good build plate + some design tweaks can pump out some parts without warping. ABS has been real hit or miss for me.

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>>2981087
chamber heaters help, but unless you're going above 60c you're better off preheating the volume with the bed for 10-20 minutes before you start printing and not run an exhaust fan. figure out what you can do with current equipment before throwing money at the problem.
https://warosu.org/diy/thread/2953645#p2957521
You only *really* need one if for some reason you're printing a filament with a relative low bed temp but high propensity to warping. only ones that I have noticed are straight nylon and straight pet. both have a ~80c bed temp for my profiles but still require 60-65c chamber hence the heater actually has to run.

I see a lot of people talking about orca slicer. Ive always just used prusaslicer because ive got a prusa machine. What am i really missing, if anything? Maybe im wrong since i bought into the cult but arent most slicers forks of prusa anyways?

>>2981091
I use both, but I use Prusaslicer 90% of the time. Orca slicer has some nice bleeding edge features but I prefer cleaner interface of Prusaslicer. Ultimately the quality of the prints is the same when you got things dialed in.

>>2981097
Thanks anon. I assumed there wasnt a huge difference but you know people online and youtube creators always dial everything up 1000%

>>2981089
Saw in that post that a standard 4mm nozzle wasn't being used. Does this help minimize warping or just speed up print time. Not buying a chamber heater as I already have an H2D, but if the product im prototyping has a decent sales volume I will probably be looking at another H2D or throwing some chamber heaters in a P2S.

>>2981089
Are those bed temperatures for PA and PET because they’d adhere too strongly at a higher temperature? Seems like it could benefit from a dedicated build surface like what Prusa makes for PP, or some sort of release agent like magigoo or that visionminer gunk.

>>2981091
I haven’t used Prusaslicer in a while, by the looks of things it’s imported at least some of orca’s features. I like Orca for its built-in calibration prints, like the retraction and temperature towers. Scarf seams are cool too, not that I can get good results from them.

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>>2981099
I use 0.6 and 0.8 because time matters more than quality for things like fixtures, especially when I might have to print multiples of them.

>>2981087
why do you need ABS again?

>>2981024
am I forklift certified now?

>>2981137
you still need a signed certificate from anon that you have attended his class.

>>2981133
nta, but maybe because it is the best sub 10$/kg plastic available.

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>>2980187
Hey that's me in the top left.
I ended up redoing all calibrations, tightening screws and wheels, cleaning the extruder and printing all auto towers.
Pic is the results and before anyone comments on the stringing, that has been adjusted further afterwards.
Not entirely sure what the issue actually was, maybe wildly incorrect fan settings and that an increase in retraction prime amount was needed.

>>2981133
Women generally find abs attractive.

>>2981172
ABS fumes can make your tits grow bigger.

>>2981133
Heat resistance and strength. Have used PETG for a similar product and it would shatter when dropped. The ABS would bounce. Its just a better material for my intended use case. Unless theres some other material thats cheap I don't know about.

>>2981176
>and it would shatter when dropped
This property is toughness, not strength. PETG is typically stronger than ABS, but ABS is tougher.

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>>2981137
forklift certified is a state of mind

>>2981178
Typical Portland, they don't even know the difference between a forklift and a telehandler

>>2981177
I guess the part needs to be both tough and strong then. I print mostly in petg and pla, but for this I think im going to jump back on abs as long as it doesnt warp.

>>2981177
Huh, I didn’t realise that PETG had higher strength than ABS. Seems like ASA might be similar to PETG though. I guess PC is the way to go if you want something stronger than PLA.

>>2981193
>I didn’t realise that PETG had higher strength than ABS
It's not a big difference, and not generally a reason to prefer one over the other, but tests usually find that PETG is stronger than ABS.

>Seems like ASA might be similar to PETG though.
It's very similar mechanically to ABS. Generally more so than to other plastics, though particular brands/colors may vary.

>I guess PC is the way to go if you want something stronger than PLA.
PC is usually about on par with PLA for strength and stiffness, but it's much tougher and more heat-resistant (unless the PLA is annealed). PC is also more creep-resistant

>>2981201
>colors
Colour can change the filament mechanical properties? Is it significant?

>>2981203
It can be. Colors are implemented by mixing pigments into the plastic, with effects that depend on what's being added and how much there is. Black, for example is usually carbon black, tiny bits of soot that can improve the mechanical properties of polymers (significant for things like car tires), but as it's an extremely potent pigment, there isn't usually much added. It usually has the best mechanical properties, possibly aside from "natural" uncolored plastic. On the other end, white is usually titanium dioxide, which comes in small crystals that typically don't bond well to plastic (and can be somewhat abrasive). It's a fairly weak pigment, so bright white can need a lot of it. It usually has the worst mechanical properties of filament colors. Other colors are usually somewhere in between.

>>2981205
If I recall MyTechFun or someone similar tested it and found pink to be the strongest.

>>2981218
Fantastic, I can now improve my prints by 2% but only if I use this very specific filament color from this very specific vendor from this very specific batch.

>>2981218
It varies.

>>2981222
Exactly! In reality it’s useful to know just so you can taunt the people trying to print something “as strong as possible” for not using the most optimal filament.

>>2981222
That's not unique to 3D printing. It applies to every construction material. Different kinds of wood have different properties, and within species they vary by climate. Individual trees vary from each other, so wood is rated according to indications of its strength. Individual foundry batches of metal vary, so any time something important is built, material tracking with mill test reports keep track of every bit of metal used in a project. And some places will cheap out if they can get away with it. Etc.

>>2981205
White PLA has never been problematic for me. Clear PLA when used for some mechanical prints has been a nightmare. If I remember correctly I had delamination issues or something. PLA is naturally a cream color, so they must have been doing something funky to make clear PLA.

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>>2981245
Reading comprehension not your strength I take it? That was a response to the varying strength by color that everyone keeps parroting about like absolute retards.
>I need stronger parts!
>hurr have you considered changing the color of the part?

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Is this a scam? I mean I'd love to have a higher temp hotend just for the keks and in case I really need it but this is an insane price for something that's basically a different shaped heater and maybe a different thermistor
Do you think it can be machined out in a shop out of 6061 alu and with some electronics added?

>>2981309
it's rather pointless to advertise a ridiculously high temp hotend on a machine that doesn't have an actively heated chamber.

>>2981316
> machine that doesn't have an actively heated chamber.
Yea that's my next project, I like my C1L but the chamber takes forever to heat up so I'll use a ptc heater or something
Prusa machines are nice but their spare parts are expensive as fuck, I've seen Chinese knockoffs literally at 1/20 of the price like the nozzle adapter for example
Now I'm thinking this hotend could probably be DIYed too

>>2981318
there's also this weird gap when if comes to filament temperatures that I've found, where everything seems to be either below 320 (pps-cf being the hottest at like 330C if you're printing fast) and 400+ for things like pekk, peek, ultem, pps, and the like.
I find no point in a 350+C hotend for consumer printers, though pet-cf and ppsu do make a case for at least 320 max temp.

>>2981324
300C is pretty standard these days, is such a hot end really going to fail if I turn it up by another 20 degrees? Worst case you change the torque of the nozzle. Or maybe the press-fit bimetal heat-breaks and such fail due to differential thermal expansion?

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>planning to print an infidex 176 v
Anyone tried printing a camera before? I can't decide on a filament to use, and further on print settings. I have an $80 spool of PPA-CF core but I dunno if that's really the best option. It'll take about 600 grams in total, so using that would be about $48 in plastic

>>2981332
If you print first in abs then for some reason decide to go for reprinting in PAcfcore you'd have spent $90 total.

>>2981324
Mainly for steel nozzles, I found that running them hotter by 20° completely alleviates the negative sides of them and they run just like brass, that and I like to apply the logic of something being overbuilt for reliability, sort of like when you have a powerful engine that you don't redline and it's gonna last for a long time
>>2981328
Thermal expansion applies to everything that's heated, that includes the hotend "body", nothing's gonna crack because of it unless you use an ugga dugga on your nozzle

>>2981328
thermal expension is negligible on such small parts.

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Is there a way to get multiple dovetails in a part using the orca/bambu slicer, or in prusaslicer?

>>2981342
my bimetal nozzles require a 0.1mm to 0.15mm z offset adjustment printing at 320C.
Not a concern if the machine does load cell leveling though.

>>2981345
so what? the expansion from room temp to 300C is in the micrometer scale so your added 20 degrees effectively does nothing as far as total expansion goes

>>2981361
you have a point. My main printer dates back to the prior decade, hence I'm still using feeler gauges to set xz offset, and I typically do it with pla temps and adjust accordingly for particularly pps and petcf.
I wonder if the load cell printers do their pecking at print temperature or some other predetermined temp.

>>2981282
>yes, the fine composition of materials matters, but only neerrrds care about it

>>2981381
>what is a standard deviation.

>>2981383
A statistical measure that can be estimated with multiple tests.

>>2981087
A chamber heater matters more for layer adhesion than warping on an enclosed Bambu machine.

t. P1S with a PTC heater.

>>2981421
All machines work the same fundamentally, you prevent warping the same way you prevent heated or welded metal from cracking which is slow controlled cooling

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>>2981309
Me again, found this on temu for 7 bucks, also a bunch of nozzles that didn't cost more than a real E3D one
There's no way the oem parts price is hyperinflated, even if the chinese knockoffs are supposedly lower quality they can't be a complete piece of garbage considering they're simple parts you can sand down in case something's wrong

>>2981442
I don't know when the order is gonna arrive but I'll post results in one of these threads, in case some of you want to be cheap bastards like myself or you just don't like overpaying out of principle.
I'm gonna print stuff with both brass and steel nozzles and compare to whatever I made with the "real" nozzle and heater I had on my printer

>>2981375
> I wonder if the load cell printers do their pecking at print temperature or some other predetermined temp.
Predetermined temp, mine cranks the heat up to 170° default idle, probes the bed and then heats up to whatever you need for the selected material

>>2981442
>converts your fancy european leak-proof nozzle into a shitty chinese V6 nozzle
Eh, be interesting to see how viable it is, but if you want high temperature printing I'd probably just run the original heater up to 320. If you're worried put a bigger fan on it.

>>2981446
Unfortunately the fancy euro nozzle is single piece and I've only got one so even with replacement nozzles I can't swap them out
As for leaks, I'm gonna see how it behaves, shouldn't leak if it's tightened properly but I've got a backup plan, I'll put a small copper washer between the 2 parts to seal better if it leaks, the kind you use with hydraulic brake lines
I suspect the possible leaks are mostly gonna be an issue with petg, not composites with CF or GF which I'll have to print with steel cheapo nozzles anyway
> I'd probably just run the original heater up to 320
You mean in the slicer settings?
I haven't yet tried that or had the need to go further than 260
I'll first see how the cheapos work and then figure the heater upgrade later.
I've also ordered the cheapest pei build plate intended for k2c I think, the size is the exact same like mine, even the locating notches in the back so we'll see how that works too.
If all else fails I still have the original equipment and I didn't waste a ton of money on these

Bought a Qidi Q2, what am I in for?
Any upgrades to print other than the riser for the top? I think I saw something about a cooling duct for parts but not sure.

>>2981447
>You mean in the slicer settings?
No I mean the maximum temperature in the printer's firmware, assuming it's 300C and you wanted to push it higher. For the reasons we being discussed above: >>2981316, >>2981324, >>2981328, i.e. printing PPS and PET-CF.

>>2981449
a bad time printing pla and petg, a fantastic time with ABS,nylons and pet blends.

Once I run out of my current stock of hex head fasteners I'm going to start buying the torx equivalents.

>>2981442
Im going to buy the prusa HT hotend for my core L eventually. Kind of the same mindset that i want the most flexible machine possible. I dont have much of an interest in multi filament prints right now so i am trying to get the most ability i can.

I always thought part of the prices with Prusa stuff was for the industrial market. If youre using a machine to prototype parts for production its a cover your ass thing using official hardware only.

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>>2981344
are you looking for pattern? if you leave the dovetail as an object you can pattern horizontally in fusion and then boolean add or subtract as necessary. don't forget to 0.2mm gap, you might duplicate the dovetail negative and expand the sides before patterning.

>>2981472
>>2981344
I did not read the question sorry. fak.wav

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>>2981473
It's a pretty regular shape that i want to make, I guess I can just do it in fusion. Shouldn't be too much of a pain, i just wanted to know if there a moron tick box somewhere I was missing.

>>2981442
titanium really brings the dough out of retards

>spend $3000+ on 3d printing gear
>still feel bad when I waste $3 of PLA
Why am I like this

>>2981496
to be honest that's a lot of PLA

>>2981505
It's about 200 grams

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>>2980187
>Where can I get things to print?
>www.thingiverse.com/
>thangs.com/
>printables.com/
>grabcad.com/
>www.yeggi.com/
>cults3d.com/
>www.stlfinder.com/
>google.com/
>T*legr*m

I'm trying to make a stencil. I don't get CAD at all. The design is simple. Which one of these guys would take my shitty paintshop, and do it all the rest for me?

As much as i admit Prusa did a lot of things right on the Core One, the continued partnership with E3D isn't one of them. The simple fact that we don't have a simple hardened steel nozzle, which worked well for more than decade, available, but instead have to shell out for some triple coated raretanium is quite frankly jewry.
>But goy you can buy the adapter. It only throws away the whole reason we came up with this nozzle.
May god punish England.

>>2981509
If you can't even post your image/vector/etc. in question, i have bad news for you anon.. That said, if it's really simple you may get away by asking AI.

>>2981520
Yeah dude I'd have to find the abandoned thing I'll ask GROK. If you can suggest a better AI please do

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is 3d printing good enough in 2026?
I've been seeing really cool stls but is the result worth it? I'm planning on buying a printer and printing wargaming stuff and some other silly useful stuff, but if it works out I'll probably try bigger stls since I'm into painting

>>2981534
If you want war games stuff go straight to resin little guys are really hard to print with fdm. It’s more work but the results are worth it.

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Hmm, it all fits nicely to the ender after I added some aluminium spacers. It’s nice not to have any PLA or PETG parts between the hot end and carriage. The stepper stick-out is somewhat concerning, but that’s why I got the pancake stepper, and considering how fast this machine prints it’s probably fine. But I’m wondering how to mount the heat-sink fan and part-cooling fan. I’d rather not put any printed plastic on any of the existing screws, especially not for the heat sink, there’s another hole or two but they aren’t tapped so would need nuts on the other side. I’m thinking maybe a bracket containing a magnet or two, so I can easily take the fan shroud off. I’ll be using a 4020 axial fan for the heat-sink, and a 4020 or 5015 blower as the part cooling.

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Can't wait for spring to kick in so I can take the ridiculous brewers belt off my vat and can actually print and post process without freezing my ass off in my garage

>>2981543
I feel like "more work" is really doing it injustice. 90% of wargaming folk who are truly interested in 3d printing would be turned off by the postprocessing alone

>>2981546
for why.

>>2981555
Because my shitty V6 heat-break keeps leaking.

>>2981556
how on earth do you manage a leaking hotend past the mid 2010's?

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>>2981552
it's been low 60s here all winter. summer is going to be straight fire as in literally the state is going to be on fire since we got almost zero snow.

>>2981546
>flash new firmware
>start a bed mesh
>takes a while but it finished
>touch new pancake stepper
>it’s really hot
>turn printer off
>look into adjusting stepper current
>apparently you probe the reference voltage on top of the trimpot
>adjust it from 1V to 0.3V
>stepper doesn’t move
>can freely rotate the extruder gear
>move pins around
>stepper still doesn’t move
>turn current back up
>still no movement
>swap Z and E stepper
>Z screws don’t rotate, but extruder turns
>use pocket oscilloscope and see no waveforms on the extruder driver’s pins
>swap back and do another bed mesh
>extruder stepper locks up and starts getting warm again
>square waveforms on the stepper pins
what the fuck is going on

>>2981543
>>2981554
thanks guys
a friend who is into 3dprinting just told me I need an open room or some kind of extractor to use a resin printer, is he right?
I mean, I can't use it indoors with just an open window?

>>2981594
No it’s toxic and that’s part of the “more work” lol
If you want to just dip your little toe get a super cheap normal filament printer and use it for terrain and walls and stuff until you get bored then upgrade to resin

>>2981594
you CAN use it inside with just an open window.
as long as you aren't in that room for long, and you wear a respirator while you do shit in there.
resin is in that fun zone of "is this fine or is it the next lead", where we dont know the long term effects, but what IS known is that repeated exposure can lead to resin allergies, which sucks ass.

>>2981595
>>2981600
thanks anons
if I use the resin printer with precautions, is the printed mini still toxic? I mean, when I manipulate it (like painting)

>>2981591
>turn printer back on again
>tell it to do a filament change
>extruder stepper just works
I think I tricked myself by unplugging and replugging the stepper, seems like the stepper-driver faulted-out by detecting no connected motor.

>>2981602
Once it's washed and cured it should be pretty inert. At least, somewhere around as inert as cured epoxy, which contains BPA. So I wouldn't eat food off it or make a toddler's toy out of it without a robust clearcoat, but for general handling it should be fine.
Just note that it does coat surfaces in the room with microscopic droplets of the resin, as the fumes condense. I'd invest in a blower fan and some cheap ducting to route out of the window.

>>2981450
Right, I'll avoid doing that for now, I don't have a lot of confidence with lobotomizing the firmware yet
>>2981471
> I dont have much of an interest in multi filament prints right now so i am trying to get the most ability i can.
Me neither, they're currently talking about indx but I see it's gonna cost a ton and so far I haven't ever found the use to print multiple materials at the same time, but I really want to be able to change nozzles without taking everything apart
> I always thought part of the prices with Prusa stuff was for the industrial market. If youre using a machine to prototype parts for production its a cover your ass thing using official hardware only.
Sort of, the filtration system they sell works really well but the replacement filter is expensive as fuck even though it's just a normal hepa filter, pretty sure the same ones are sold for pennies on amazon and other sites for example
I'll try the adapter as soon as I get it and will post results. In the meantime I'll figure out why my C1L is making clanking and shaking noises on the left side, haven't seen any print issues but I'm concerned about something falling apart.
I've heard factory assembled prusas sometimes do have these fuckups and it's recommended to go through everything

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>>2981604
I've also been thinking about the nozzle adapters and nozzles and reported leaks and I'm wondering why didn't they ever make this sort of tapered press fit style thread like picrel?
They're used on pressure and flow regulators on argon and other gas cylinders and they handle insane pressure without leaks

>>2981602
once its cured the mini is safe, right up until you sand it and the dust goers airborne.

i've found my bigger issue is that the dirty IPA fumes made the room smell like absolute dogshit even 8 months after i moved the printer into the shed with a growtent venting it outside.

So if I'm tuning linear advance and input shaping with Marlin, does that mean I have to look at the results of the calibration prints, and manually write a bit of g-code that will save those settings to the printer's eeprom?

I only just ordered my first printer and I'm looking at filaments.
Am I correct in thinking that since layer adhesion is the weak point of all FDM prints I'm better off getting something with better layer adhesion even at the cost of overall material strength if I want to have a single piece print that's (relatively)strong in all dimensions?

>>2981614
Kinda? You can usually design your model to have loading in the X and Y directions, or only compressive loading in the Z direction. Generally the only cases where strength increases significantly but layer adhesion decreases significantly is with non-core/coextruded fibre-reinforced filaments, and with high-temperature filaments that you're not printing in a hot enough environment. If it's strength you want for engineering prints, you'd better have bought yourself a printer with an actively heated chamber, or at least the ability to add one later.

>>2981605
Besides adding length to the overall setup, looks like a perfect spot for residue to form.

>>2981611
Yes.

>>2981614
If you're doing a print that depends on layer adhesion you're in for a bad time. What do you plan to print, what it's form and function? How do you buy a printer without planning what exactly to do with it anyways? Do you buy a saw just for the sake of it?

>>2981594
add a fan

>>2981614
get a roll of PLA to learn and prototype with, it's cheap and there are a lot of other things you can do to help a design not fail. jump straight to ASA for strength and UV protection with a higher melt point.

to wit my mailbox pull which was PLA lasted 4.5 years in the direct sun and then crumbled to shit out of nowhere. I reprinted in PLA because I didn't have any ASA or PETG color that worked with a gray mailbox.

>>2981628
>Do you buy a saw just for the sake of it?
do you not?

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there goes lcd screen 2 in the mars 4 ultra. Got a bambu p1s coming in the mail. I'm not rolling the dice printing things that don't absolutely need the detail of resin

>Printing drybox things for filament drier.
>Could just remove them before I put them in the drier.
>Lazy.
>Needs to be able to withstand 75C.
>PLA out of the question.
>PETG is probably okay, but varies from brand to brand.
>ABS or ASA would be optimal.
>Get some ABS.
>Print the thing.
>Blobby and rough surface with mushy edges.
>Print a calibration cube.
>Smooth and crisp edges.
>Fuck about with the slicer to slow it down a little and maybe help it out.
>Still bad.

Alright, I'm retarded and don't know what I'm doing. Any theories on what I'm doing wrong here?
I'm using the same filament profile for each print. I'm using some random dry pod model from the internet. So, I'm guessing the issue is something relating to the model geometry, or slicer settings themselves.

>>2981605
thermal cycling makes the nozzle leak, it's a threading issue, this wouldn't solve the problem.

>>2981670
A significantly shorter layer time on your print compared tot the cube is my guess.

>>2981670
post a pic of the cube and drybox in your slicer, and the cube and drybox IRL.
my guess is thin walls that can warp enough to ruin the finish.

>>2981675
I always assumed as much. But then why don’t normal V6/MK8 nozzles leak all the time? And why is mine the exception?

>>2981603
>At least, somewhere around as inert as cured epoxy, which contains BPA.
There are medical-grade resins, which are approved for things like implants and dental work.

>>2981708
i don't know nearly enough about your setup to answer that, maybe you overtightened, it doesn't take much to deform brass.

>>2981717
>maybe you overtightened
I did not consider that possibility, I assumed tigher was always better so long as I didn't strip the threads in the aluminium heater block. Be cool to see little copper sealing washers that you replace each time you swap a nozzle, not that I think it would be worth doing for anything at these pressures.
But just as easily it could be the differential thermal expansion causing it to loosen up on heat-cool cycles. At the moment I'm running what they called a "copper bimetal nozzle", the ones with the silver-coloured plating and the hardened steel insert, along with a titanium-core bimetal heat-break. Who knows, maybe I just happened to pick a bad combination of parts.

Also my co-worker occasionally blasts out clogged nozzles with a butane torch, but just recently he did so for a K1 nozzle. It would seem to me that doing so would ruin the heat-treatment on the hardened steel nozzle, and possibly cause warping or thermal shock between the dissimilar metals in the nozzle or its integrated heat-break.

>>2981728
>I assumed tigher was always better
It isn't. Get a torque wrench calibrated to the proper torque for your setup. 3D printing supply companies stock ones specifically for this purpose.

>Also my co-worker occasionally blasts out clogged nozzles with a butane torch
This is fine for solid tungsten carbide nozzles, but can damage others. Steel heated to the point of burning out carbon residue will indeed ruin the heat treatment.

>>2981509
Well, let's see it. What do you want modeled?

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slow going, but it's getting somewhere

>>2981643
Definitely not. I already got several.

>>2981708
They do, or rather did. You can find an example at any given time on reddit. It's just the most common cause, a dumb user, mostly moved on to Bambu or anything with a non leakage design.
>>2981728
Rather ask why your coworker has so many clogged nozzles.

>>2981708
If by normal you mean the default ones that are single piece with the heat break, that's because there's nowhere to leak from, the only downside to using an adapter is the possible leaks since inside the thread there's a gap when everything heats up and expands, the only way around it is with secret handshakes and tightening st a specific temperature of the heater

>>2981730
Steel is fine unless it changes color when heated, but you don't really need that much heat to clean out plastic from a nozzle anyway, anything else can be flushed out with paint thinner or acetone

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>>2981769
>Steel is fine unless it changes color when heated
This starts at about 200C for carbon steel, with the useful tempering range extending somewhat past 300C. Carbon burns in air at around 550C. Even fully annealed steel is a lot harder and more wear-resistant than brass, but hardened steel is a lot harder than over-tempered steel. Various alloys can maintain useful hardness at higher temperatures than carbon steel, but you probably shouldn't assume that these more expensive materials were used if it's not explicitly said to be.

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>>2981749
It's only a straight single-sided part-cooling duct, but I think that should be fine. I'd put one on the other side too, but that's where my CR-touch is. Making a curved multi-sided duct in SolveSpace seems like a nightmare, this 76 element file is already taking a second or two per update. I guess I could try moving it around to fit a second blower, but being able to mount a 5015 fan flat on my mounting plate, perfectly aligned with the 15mm tall heat-sink, simplifies the design a bunch. I'll test it as is, but before that I'll need to spend a bit more time finalising the cable routing. I really don't want the solid-core wires from the hot-end flapping about in the breeze, so I'll make a clamping jig for their JST connectors. The design uses the clamping magnets as the aligning pins, solid and simple.

I'll print this in PETG to see how well it works, but I'll borrow an enclosed printer to re-print it in ABS if it's good. Either way I may put a layer of foil tape on the side facing the heater block, to block radiant heat.

>>2981728
>aluminium heater block
alu is extremely soft, it's very easy to overtighten and fuck up the threads.

>copper bimetal nozzle
copper is also very soft but work hardens quickly when you torque it (threads) or bend it, then it gets soft again when heated, it's a balance. ideally you'd have torque specs but 3d printers are toys and the manufacturers are hobby engineers

How do you remove glue marks from your prints? I've tried warm water, soap, and IPA, and gotten shit all. The marks are still there.

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>>2981708
>/MK8 nozzles leak all the time?
Bit of irreverent history, but somewhat relevant to the point:
Creality fixed the Mk8 by basically remaking the entire thing with some standoffs and making the ptfe go all the way down to the nozzle and remain pressed against it. The old Mk8 and Mk10 did leak quite a bit since the heatbreak could be inserrted not far enough, the nozzle when tightened would tighten against the heatblock rather than the end of the heatbreak, and since parallel threads don't seal there would be slow oozing.
I wish i was able to find a cutaway to better explain the issue.

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>>2981789
The creality model would still leak, but that was from damage to the pfte that would sit against the nozzle. people modded these with especially cut lengths of ptfe that would be pressed down with hardware.
With the early e3d's the main thing was to always make sure that there was a slight gap between the flats of the nozzle and the heatblock to ensure that the heatbreak tube was pressed against the nozzle.

I'm trying to design a fan shroud for a thing, and I fear I might be too retarded to use openfoam. is there an alternate or should I just make use of the cheap iteration that 3d printing enables and wing it through multiple iterations?

>>2981783
Try less aggressive glue, or none at all.

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fuck

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I designed and printed a holster for my calipers but the file is a clusterfuck after multiple revisions and edits. Do I just need to reverse engineer it into a fresh Fusion file or is there a way to transfer the good bits (mostly the internal geometry, while I'd like to redo the exterior) over while losing all of the extraneous fuckups?

Side note, this was a class project and was printed in a batch on a clapped out Ender 5 that I had no control over. Gonna get my own printer soon (probably an A1) and hopefully it'll print cleaner on that.

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>>2981811
Looks cool, and depending on the way that it was designed and the program you used you could very well easily make changes to it. Fusion 360 is free for a slightly cucked version, solidworks is easily pirated, and freecad is free as in freedom beer.
I'd at least make sure that the inside is a flat shelf at these locations so the tips don't bite into the plastic and get stuck.
I'd also add a battery holder, even if I haven't had to replace the battery in mine in years.

>>2981806
what diameter filament is that, or it is an extruded birdsnest?

>>2981783
you don't unless you stop using glue. I have a plate that has grown it's own texture from old glue and it literally imprints into the print surface. it's just a side effect of glue stick buildup and sometimes it's texture, sometimes it looks like embedded glue. PEI is a lifesaver coming from needing a glued up plate.

>>2981806
make creepy doll hairs

>>2981814
I have the student version of Fusion and it's what this one was designed in, and what I'll use for the update. The internal geometry is good and the thing works well functionally, it's just that this is the 3rd iteration and the file has been through so many sketches, cuts, and extrudes that it's an absolute mess and Fusion freaks out trying to do chamfers and fillets and things like that, which I mostly want to do just to clean up the external appearance and feel.

Battery holder is an interesting idea. I'd also considered adding some kind of pocket for a 6" machinist scale. This was really designed just to take up less space in my toolbox than the factory case, though, so I can just carry that extra stuff inside it.

>>2981815
Extruded birdsnest. It was actually part of an attempt (the second failed one, in fact, the first one put steps in the prints) to print the caliper sheath >>2981811 in PETG on an old Raise3D that's clearly at the end of its useful lifespan. It printed fine for the bottom half of the print but then completely left the chat.

>>2981825
PETG is more flexible and heat/UV resistant than PLA, but less impact resistant. For something rattling around in a toolbox, I’m not sure which I’d rather have. TPU would be the superior choice in my estimation, if you print it with a decent wall count it won’t be floppy. But 95A might struggle with that print orientation, especially on a bed-slinger.
I just throw my cheap verniers in my toolbox, and keep the digital callipers for home use.

If you plan on doing engineering prints, I’d highly recommend an enclosed core-xy over an A1.

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>>2981830
Yeah, I was split and printed both, the grey one in my photo is PLA that was printed simultaneously with the failed PETG. The main reason I was interested in PETG was its better water and oil resistance, maybe important for machine shop use. I'm a student majoring in machining so my good calipers have to come with me in the box as well. (Pic is the current setup, I also just laser cut the wood tray for the mics - and yeah, I know the standards can't stay where they are, I'm gonna print a case for them as soon as I have my own printer.)

That's a good point about the bed slinger. I'd really like an enclosed printer, especially since it's going in my garage/workshop (insulated but not directly heated, tends to be around 55-60F in the winter) but my budget is pretty limited and there aren't a whole lot of options for a printer that's enclosed, cheap, and user-friendly. I'm considering maybe a P1 since Bambu is blowing them out but I'd probably have to get it without the AMS.

>>2981832
>imperial pliers
yuck

>>2981822
I'm trying out my smooth plate instead of the PEI one cause I wanted a smoother finish, but the patchy, off-glass finish it's giving me cause of the glue is shit. I'll try it glue-less and hope for the best.

>>2981832
>enclosed, cheap, and user-friendly
Sovol Zero? Centauri Carbon? Not as hand-holding as Bambu, but also not as much of a bot-net.

>>2981844
Instead of smearing the glue around with the stick, make a sparse spread of glue stick over where you want to print (maybe 10-20% coverage). Then sprinkle a few drops of water on the build sheet, and use that to thin the glue into a liquid that you can spread into a thin, even film over the sheet. Let it dry, and you'll have a very thin, smooth layer of glue stick.

>>2981846
Sovols are user friendly now?
t.SV08 owner

>>2981846
The Sovol's build volume is way too small. The Centauri Carbon seems like a possible option though and it's cheap compared to the Bambus, might be worth considering. I'll have to do some research on it.

>>2981879
The zero uses stock klipper and has a few other improvements over the SV08. Not that I own one or would recommend it to a complete noob, but the anon in question has used a 3D printer before so it would probably be ok.

>>2981886
I'd have to check on that, but so far they are intermediate to very willing to learn in my book. Their offer is nothing but bang for buck and if you're ever in need for something close to support it became a rather small bang quickly..

>>2980187
I have a problem that I think only has one clear answer. I've been working on a design for about six months. Posting short videos about it. Wasn't really sure how to monetize it since I only have a couple printers. I figured I would post the files for download online eventually. Anyway, a bigger channel basically copied my design and is charging around 100 dollars for a finished product. So I guess now my only option is to undercut them. What do you guys think?

>>2981909
>What do you guys think?
Do you have a finished product?

>Posting short videos about it.
Why would you do this?

>>2981909
Post the 3D model for free immediately out of spite, and move on to another project. Next time either go into things with a sufficiently non-trivial design to copy, or patent your design before making any public information about the design.

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printer bed is best dryer. There's no way this ends in catastrophe.
>>2981909
You can cite prior artwork and have some chatbot type up a takedown notice citing prior artwork. you can also publish the files fo' free, or upload them to cults and use their reporting system to have theirs taken down.

>>2981915
The part cooling fan might help with drying via airflow. What are you printing?
>You can cite prior artwork
If they've patented it sure, but they're probably just selling a functional copy of his design after assuming it's in the public domain. Trying to argue that it's an exact copy and attack them on copyright grounds would likely be far more difficult. The new guys aren't charging $100 for the STL, they're selling the final product directly, so there wouldn't be anything to take down from Cults in the first place.

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>>2981920
patent!=copyright, hence the letter might be enough to dissuade at least through an informal channel. If that doesn't work then it can get costly from my limited understanding.
I needed a new drag chain end link as my current one broke again, you can see it dangling atop the print head.
The nylon I printed it out of is too soft and I reckon it'll just fall off.
I'll try polycarb next.

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>>2981920
and I was reprinting picrel mounting for a minipc and egpu in a stiffer plastic, ABS-gf core to be precise.

>>2981920
>so there wouldn't be anything to take down from Cults in the first place.
doesn't cults enforce the physical reproduction of the files? I've seen the sale of files tiered to personal use and then at a higher level for commercial use. Maybe it was patreon. I've also seen etsy shops shut down over the use of a flexi dragon model they didn't have the rights to.

>>2981909
>What do you guys think?
You're incompetent. How do you spend six months on a case mount? The big forum with the alien might be better suited to fish for sob points.

>>2981871
Should I just use liquid glue?

>>2981931
There's more than one kind of glue. The actual adhesive is what matters.

>>2981939
for beds, there really isn't.
It's typically just pva and some solvent.
Even the famous multiple magigoo formulations are just variations in the concentration of pva.

I'm thinking about replacing my hex heads with torx as particular fasteners run out.
I'm not autistic, I just want something different in my life.

>>2981952
sure but an upcharge gluestick from bambu made only from beds goes on a lot smoother and clumps less than an elmers school stick that starts purple and dries clear. it's all PVA but all PVA is not created the same.

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>>2981974
i don't know why I bother trying to explain shit to bambuniggers.

Is the ender 3 still cool?

Are Prusa printers a meme?

>>2981846
>>2981882
>>2981886
So I looked into the Centauri and reviews are pretty much universally bad. I know the botnet aspect of Bambu sucks but I think it's worth it for the build quality etc. For what it's worth I don't really consider myself particularly competent with printers either, the class really focused more on designing and slicing along with general printing knowledge but we only did half a dozen actual prints and we used settings we were instructed to use etc.

>>2981952
And "liquid glue" includes things like cyanoacrylate and polyurethane that anon shouldn't put on his printer's bed. There are different kinds of PVA too (it's a category of polymers, not a specific chemical). The kind in glue stick is not the kind in wood glue, which is not the kind on lickable envelopes, which is not the kind in chewing gum. Even for FDM bed adhesives, there's also ABS slurry, which apparently wasn't the sort of thing he's looking for. And as the other anon said, glue sticks themselves come in different varieties with different performance as an FDM bed material (I prefer Kores, which has its own proprietary blend of herbs and spices).

>>2981992
You're repeating the band name, what do you think?

>>2981992
Mine works great and I've more than made my money back on it selling parts online. Printing stuff every few days and barely needed any maintenance over four years.

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I got promted to full time at work and will most likely be getting a small raise, should i impulse buy the p2s or wait until the summer sale, currently have a modded ender 3v2

>>2982018
Bambu will have an anniversary sale in June.
P2S will probably be a little bit cheaper.
You can buy it now, or wait a couple of months and save $200 or so.
Depends on how badly you'd rather have it now.

>>2982019
i mean, i dont need it now... but ive been trying to print dual filament signs on my e3v2 and it keeps fucking up on me trying to enable the custom pause at height g code

>>2982020
I mean, I've got one myself.
It's pretty good. Questions of worth are a pretty difficult thing to answer.
Having used a couple of printers at this point, the P2S is the easiest printer to work with. "It just werks" and whatever. But, it's not like it's doing anything that you can't get an Ender to do, if you're willing to mess around with it a bit more.
But, it's definitely easier in that I can just slice something and tell it to print it, and it just does it without much issue or fuss.

>>2981982
Ender 3 scrap parts projects are still cool.

>>2981992
Mk4s and mini, yes. Core and core L are great.

>>2982020
>>2982018
Without a definitive project on mind, i'd wait. Besides making your impulse a planned decision, some $200 savings will do great in filament.

Thoughts on the Bambu A1?
Thinking of picking it up as a birthday gift to myself and repurposing my Ender 3 as maybe a laser engraver.

>>2981996
Fair enough. If you explicitly don’t want a printer as a project, I can only recommend Bambu or Prusa.

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>>2981915
Straight generic polycarb ended up being soft enough to where I don't think it'll damage the cable, but stiff enough to actually function as the endchain link.
Hopefully it won't get fucked by chamber temps.

>>2982073
why would you willingly put a rattle snake in your printer?

>>2982046
Yeah, that's basically the consensus I've seen most places. I don't like the idea of buying the printer equivalent of ishit but end of the day I need a tool, not another hobby.

>>2981977
Personally, I think you're just here to talk shit on Bambu owners. You don't actually care about what else goes on in the thread.

>Core One + has a maximum chamber temperature of 55C
What the heck? They make this thing out of PLA? Also damn they’re charging $500NZ shipping.

I have 10 printers currently going most of the time, and I think I might be running out of outlets unless maybe I run some type of UPS or battery bank. I have two sockets in the guest bedroom that are 110v and I think on a 30a circuit. The guest bedroom has 2 P2S on one outlet and on the other outlet it has an A1 mini, another P2S and an H2D which don't like to be started at all the same time. In the garage I have 3 P1S on one outlet and 2 P1S on another outlet but that outlet also charges my car.

Seems like im pretty maxed out. Cant really run any more 30a outlets from the breaker as my house is extremely difficult to run new outlets in. I almost think it might be cheaper to run battery banks until I can get a dedicated warehouse or something. I saw a youtube comment about someone running 4 printers on an eco flow delta max or something which is a big battery bank. Im guessing a UPS is probably a better deal as I could probably run 4 printers on a UPS for load balancing?

>>2982082
There'd be a lot less shit talking on bambu, if they're users used more common sense, i.e. googling their issue once, closely followed by
>any opinion on A1, P2S, H2S? I don't know what to do with it, but looks cool

>>2982089
>laughs in euro
Did you double check your utilisation with a current clamp? What's holding you back from putting more printers next to your MCB box?

>>2982099
That is true. I do understand your distaste for that sort. Get the same sort of people when it comes to computers and RC aircraft. Mountains of information and people asking the same questions, yet they decide to type it again. I actually have a Bambu myself, but I actually try shit before asking for help. There's no reason to help when a person won't put any effort in first. Only reason I got what I have is the fact that they're everywhere, and popularity carries certain benefits.

>>2982099
a to the m to the p to the CLAMP - amp clamp, huh! clamp the amps, huh. get a reading up in this here bitch, huh! s' thye amp clamp, shieee

i just paid real money for the hero me guide pdf document

how much of a pain is using the printer itself for filament drying? I ordered a printer with heated chamber and saw someone mentioning it's something you can do
I know filament dryers are cheap as fuck but I haven't decided yet if I want the multi-spool combo box or not yet so I'm holding off on buying one.

>>2982105
Jesus Christ, fuckhead. There's a complaint about morons unable to google their issue once literally four posts above you and yet you decide to waltz in here. Are you mentally retarded or did your mom not teach you to tie your shoes? Go kill yourself.

>>2982105
Its doable with most common filaments, but its gonna take a long time per spool. Id say minimum 12 hrs with flipping it halfway through on a heated bed.

>>2982105
For every minute you dry a spool in your printer, you waste a minute not printing.

>>2982109
Thanks for heads up! Will put my filament in the oven instead.

>>2982107
>did your mom not teach you to tie your shoes?
I assume it's ESL, but the longer i think about this, the meaner omitting “how” becomes.

>>2982107
retard
nine times of ten when you google something stupid but technically doable you get
>try this amazing hack today, you will save money and results are indistinguishable
clickbait, people here don't have the same incentive to lie.

>>2982110
Use the broil setting for extra efficiency.

>>2982115
Maybe learn to twist the search engine's arm a little. We all know Jewgle will do anything to get more ad views and clicks, so dragging you off to JewTube for video ads makes sense. Start with -youtube if you want to rip that trash off. Maybe find a nice forum. They still exist and have huge amounts of data to pull from.

>>2982105
The one big advantage you get from a dedicated filament dryer is the ability to dry your filament while printing simultaneously.
It is the best way to print some very long prints with a hygroscopic filament.

>>2982127
And use an adblocker. Don’t give the adjew its shekels.

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Im about to design and print this in blender for a cosplay prop staff/sceptre (the "metal" parts only, the rest will be just wood, string, and an usb flame led stick).

I am worried however how can I reinforce the very thin spiral rods on the staff head because thet seem very feeble. And i also wonder what is the cheapest/simplest way of smoothing and doing the metallic finish.

Silk pla would still look to plasticky, and electroplating is out of my skill/effort-budget. Just filler primer and silvery paint? Rub and buff?

>>2982115
>calls people retard
>can't fathom a question that's been discussed a thousand times on reddit, duet3d, VD and TFDM
You really are stupid.

>>2982131
Same here.
>How do i do X?
>Noo, not the obvious answer!
Do you people even think or do you just scroll Tiktok till the last braincells jump ship?

>>2982131
If you can find it, Meltonian Nu-Life shoe spray in silver. I don't see it on their site anymore but a local shoe repair place might have it, or people still seem to be selling old stock on ebay. It's meant to be shoe paint but my experience was that it's hands down the best metallic paint for cosplay, looks pretty convincing and it's flexible and doesn't rub off on stuff like normal silver spray paints do.

>>2982131
>>2982139
Actually to add to this, after a little more research it seems like there's a product called "Saphir Tenax" being marketed as a replacement for the discontinued Meltonian stuff. That might be worth a try, it does come in silver.

>>2982115
There is an incentive to lie. People around here very much like to honor the tradition of trolling the shit out of others.

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>>2982105
>how much of a pain is using the printer itself for filament drying?
fool's errand, but with the filament box and filament that isn't nylon or pc you can make do. Decent filament dryers are sub $100 now, and gasketed boxes/aluminized bags plentiful.
I only ever do it when I'm going to be printing sub 2m prints and the bed is at 100C or hotter printing something else, and even then it's only really viable due to a large bed.

>>2982089
what the hell do you need 10 printers for

>>2982162
making fake posts on the internet.
We've got some retard that just likes to spam retarded questions and asinine posts for attention.

>>2981604
Printing multi-material is useful if you're not just using it to mix colors and print flexi dragons. Being able to mix filaments is useful in functional prints and using PLA for supports is nice because it's cheap and comes off easy.

Whats the current consensus on the best indx printer.

>>2982162
I print increasingly large and bizzare dildos, and more printers means more speed.

>>2982178
There are none available to consumers. INDX hasn't launched yet.

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>make a project box with an access cover.
>don't want any more hardware so model a blind clip and hole.
>forget to chamfer one side of the clip component.
>print, pull from printer, sex levels of fit on the cover.
>set it down on a table nearby. it clicks together.
I can't decide if I should drill 8 mass 38 bayonet holes and paperclip the cover off or fix my mistake and reprint.

>>2982187
mas36*
for reference.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DA3VsMteAxk

>>2982178
Core One (+) is expensive, the camera sucks, and there are a few other nitpicks that makes it fall short compared to other coreXY machines. But it’s probably dead reliable, and it’s very moddable if you’re not afraid to get your hands dirty, though at that price you might be better off with a Voron or whatever. My only gripe is you’re paying for Prusa’s nextruder only to put it aside when your INDX kit eventually arrives, if they could cut a few hundred off the price tag for a headless printer that would be pretty appealing.

As far as I know, it hasn’t been officially announced to work with any other printers, meaning you’d have the same wasted toolhead issue. If you’re buying an SV08 then that’s not the best toolhead in the first place, and that’s probably a good budget option, but at that point you’re spending more on INDX with tools than on the printer. If you want to pay Sovol money, you should wait for an INDX knockoff. The induction heating is hardly necessary, there’s no reason we have to have no wires going to each toolhead considering there should be a PTFE tube on each toolhead anyhow, so there’s a cost saving measure.

>>2982206
>so there’s a cost saving measure.
The inductive heating system only requires duplicating the heating element (a piece of steel wrapped around the filament path) for each toolhead, which is simple and cheap, and heats up / cools down in a few seconds at each toolhead change. A traditional heater with a heater block either stays hot between stops (resulting in ooze and filament degradation) or needs a minute or so to warm up at each change. It's also bulkier, allowing fewer tools than an inductive setup.

>>2982207
Yeah, but I don’t think that’s been an issue for the U1. Keep the filament warm but maybe below melting point for frequent changes, but let it cool down more for more infrequent use like support interfaces. Use the PID parameters to optimally pre-empt the heat-up, seems like a very solvable engineering challenge. Weight and bulk isn’t really a huge issue unless you’re trying to make the fastest printer possible. I still expect induction to be somewhat more expensive.

Of course you could also make a radiant heated hot-end, but it would make the heat resistance requirements on the gantry carriage significant.

>>2982187
>fix my mistake and reprint.
this

>>2982089
uhhh h2s draw is about 10.2a can you run three on a 30a circuit or does it pop the breaker? as in plug 3 in one outlet and set them all to heat the bed and chamber and see if it pops.

for simple outlet multiplication you can always change a 2 gang into a 4 gang either by upgrading the wall box or with a screw in adapter. you're still on that 30a circuit tho. I had a dozen outlets in my old two car garage but of course I was only running 1 saw/vacuum/etc at a time but making more plugs on a circuit is easy.

to pull another circuit in the same room you might be able to find the room lights are in a separate circuit, probably only 20a and you need to test with the lights on to see the printer load you can add. you can switch from incandescent lights to reduce the overall draw on the circuit. obviously test with all lights on.

you can also pull another line from an adjacent room by going next to the gang box through the drywall and adding a new gang box. in other words find bedroom1 outlet on adjoining wall to bedroom2 with printers and cut into the joist space for an old work screw in box, short wire and you're on a new breaker (just don't run grandma's vacuum)

essentially you need to figure out how many printers realistically can plug in to the single 30a breaker at peak load. if you trip the breaker with 3 printers all pre heating you can either run two or keep 3 and just ensure you're not firing prints on all 3 at the same time (distributing the amp draw instead of peaking). if 3 work on the same breaker repeat with 4 until you trip the breaker and know the real limit. Also if you pull and tap from different rooms it's helpful to label the breaker to which the outlet(s) belong.

tl;dr keep plugging shit in until shit breaks then do one less thing on that circuit. be creative to find other circuits near that room.

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Got my first 3D printer and printed my first benchy. Looks fine I think?
Now I only have to actually learn how to 3D model...

>>2982162
I run a small business. Like $44k in sales per year currently. Trying to expand.

>>2982263
I have 3 P1S running all at the same time at start and the breaker doesnt trip. At this point I think the best bet is to maybe get 2 more additional printers running on the remaining outlets and then move to a dedicated space and start looking at getting an employee. My brother has a small warehouse hes leasing thats 5min from my house. Just at a weird bottleneck right now. Growing too big for my house, but not big enough for a dedicated space or an employee. Also stuck between working full time, but not making enough to make the business full time.

>>2982284
>Looks fine I think?
Yep. If that's one you sliced yourself (as opposed to gcode that came with you printer) then those settings should do well for that material.

>>2982284
Pretty good. Small defects in the normal areas small defects occur.
If you want a cool experiment, try printing a few at different layer sizes and use other nozzles, if you have one. It'll help you get an idea of what level of detail is going to show up in prints, and how long it'd take to print things with certain levels of detail and all that.
A benchy is ultimately a very generalist test. It's not a very detailed model and you're not really testing the mechanical limits of the printed object either. But, it's pretty nice for showing you that the thing is putting the plastic down in the right places.

>>2982284
3D modeling really opens up your printers capability. Once you can model you can make your own designs and even edit other peoples designs. Sometimes I borrow components from existing designs that way I don't have to model from scratch. It really saves a lot of time.

I would definitely recommend watching through a lot of videos on slant3d on youtube. Gets you in the mindset of modeling for additive. I do most of my modeling on tinkercad and its got me pretty far. Have heard plasticity is good, and i do a very tiny amount of modeling in VR. Not knowing how to 3d model really gimps the use you get out of your 3d printer. The design process gets a lot faster the better you get at it too. Used to take me hours to model simple stuff.

Is multi material printing a meme? I've been testing it out trying to use PLA as support for PETG and it's been a total nightmare. I've never had so many issues with my AMS.

>>2982154
why does your printer cam looks like it belongs in a SCP video