Welcome to woodworking general, vintage edition. Here we discuss the working of wood and the tools and techniques of working wood. So far we tend to be mostly hand tool folk with a slant towards cabinetry and carving but all are welcome and we have some capable power tool folk amount our ranks. General carpentry question such as framing/decking/general construction seems to get a better response in the /qtddtot/ or /sqt/.Old thread >>2968050The Essential /wwg/ library.Tage Frid Teaches Woodworking, gives you everything you need and shows you how to do it multiple ways from hand tools to power tools and gives you the knowledge to determine which is best, and then he teaches you how to apply what you learned.https://www.amazon.com/dp/1561588261Chris Pye wrote the book on carviing and keeps on writing them.https://www.chrispye-woodcarving.com/The eastern tradtion, Japanese Woodworking Tools: Their Tradition, Spirit and Use by Toshio Odatehttps://www.amazon.com/dp/0941936465Leonard Lee The Complete Guide to Sharpeninig, how to sharpen most everything.https://www.amazon.com/dp/1561581259Bob Flexner - Finishing 101, covers the common stuff, his other books cover the uncommon and go into more depthhttps://www.amazon.com/dp/1440308454/Illustrated Cabinet Making by Bill Hylton, learn to design furniture that won't fall aparthttps://www.amazon.com/dp/1565233697/The shows that got many of us startedhttps://www.pbs.org/show/woodwrights-shop/https://www.newyankee.com/Working on getting some youtube and current blogs, but filtering out the shills is tough work and time has not been my friend. Looking for ones that are no nonsense and are about teaching, not showing off and shilling, recommendations appreciated. Wood and Shop looks decent, but I have yet to be able to dig into it.
Fuck, forgot to grab the newer OP, remembered it as I was filling in the subject and then just forgot.
That picture makes me feel like buying a a 3d printer was a mistake.
How would you guys make the connection for the platform in this? The height of the platform is adjustable and can be locked in place. There seem to be some metal fixtures on the corners in this pic but I don’t know what kind
>>2980606finally, thank you for at least trying op>>2980646probably recalled by now
>>2980646like this
what are you guys getting 4/4 white oak for in your area? trying to figure out if $6.25/bdft is a deal or not
the most attrocious butt joinery this side of the mississippi
>>2980725there is literally nothing wrong with this pile of firewood, anon
>>2980646Pegs are fine if fixed heights are what you want, T-Track if you want it to be freely adjustable.
>>2980725Caulk and paint next time, friend.
>>2980725ogee == sovl
>>2980738lmao yes let's put a baby crib on rockler's finest
>>2980740if you're painting furniture you already know: got fucked
wife got tired of me laying my clothes out on the floor at night. pretty happy with it, maple clothespins made in oregon to boot
>>2980759Cabinets get painted in most cases. Staining construction lumber with minimal prep and exposed fasteners is for Etsy.
did i fuck up this stain?this is my second project and first time staining
>>2980772Looks good to me.
>>2980758>Regularly used to assemble heavy duty work tables>Thinks it'll be an issue to have a 10-50lbs child on it
>>2980778what's your review on extrusion so far?
>>2980801It's not my setup, but I was planning to use it as the core frame of a dropped surface gaming table, maybe even put a cheap TV inside under a sheet of polycarb with a cheap NUC so it can put up maps and so on for whoever's DMing.That said, it's a great resource for building shop furniture, since most sources will let you buy every pre-planned piece pre-cut to exact lengths and just charge you materials, with only a bit extra for stuff like rounding off and refinishing the ends.
>>2980805of course, why would someone post something they made here. was looking for real world feedback
>>2980801My company builds industrial stuff from extrusion, it’s expensive but reliable and fast to build, but you’ll want a big store lot of tools and parts most people don’t have lying around (abrasive saw, rings, caps, nuts rings, corners, bolts…). If you use it for the entire shop it may be worth the storage and money investment but for just a few tables it’s relatively very expensive. In the setup shown those slots will fill up with sawdust in no time and after the first spill of lubricant oil it turns to sticky mess you can’t vacuum out.
>>2980772the branch looks goodthe bird, i feel like the stain pooled too much at those corners where the feathers "overlap", but that's just me.
>>2980801you are in the ww thread and want to build shop furniture with flimsy extrusion? lol
>>2980868>flimsy>Stuff strong enough for building industrial fabrication lines
>>2980870you have no idea what you are talking aboutbuilding not wobbly piece of shits out of these requires additional expensive hardware and bracing. Its really not much different to stick framing>Stuff strong enough for building industrial fabrication linesand you have that reversed. its fabrication lines not structurally demanding enough to require steels and machined cast aluminium plates, shit like modular assembly stations (glorified table)>>2980778the flimsy part is everything being butt jointed with a single m6 screw in weak aluminium, and the head sitting on a hollow structure
>>2980810thanks, the sawdust issue makes perfect sense and i can see where that'd be impractical. as far as squareness goes, e.g. for a slab jig, is there anything to worry about?>>2980846was curious, i haven't seen a lot of big aluminum builds like that. seems the standard 2x4s are better in a bench implementation
>>2980763i'll take stain + minwax's finest polyslop over paint any day, thank you
>>2980846my bad, >>2980875 was meant for >>2980868
>>2980875>seems the standard 2x4s are better in a bench implementationeasier to work with and an order of magnitude ceaper
>>2980888i could see in a jig where warping would be a negative, though plywood could just as easily satisfy that requirement. so it is a maymay then
>>2980892i honstely have no idea why all these router sleds rely on extrusions instead of plain angle iron. being able to weld stuff is together is a huge boon.pic should give you an idea why plain butt joints with a screw like in ops pic are not eactly great, they also dont prevent the extrusions from rotating
bought a handheld rotary saw yesterday and cut a few things. honestly my first real woodworking power tool, feels pretty nice.
>>2980894i've seen both styles, i think there's a lot of misconceptions about extrusion; it "looks" easier but yeah when you actually spec everything out it's expensive as fuck and any racking is going to be a no-go
>>2980895if it came with a guard it better be in the trash
>>2980898you mean the swiveling thing that goes over the blade? yeah it has that
>>2980898>t. 6-finger joe
>>2980962only need a select three
>>2980846>i feel like the stain pooled too much at those corners where the feathers "overlap", but that's just me.same, have a feeling I waited too long before wiping the excess, used too much, or didn't stir the can well enough beforehandi used minwax dark walnut + wood conditioner on poplarstill like how it turned out, except for accidentally breaking the branch when I was peeling it off the wasteboard. at least it was easily fixable
>>2980875You can go as stiff as you like with corner plates like >>2980871 or pic rel or cross brace it with V plates.
these seem pretty cool for holding stuff while sanding. price sucks though even on sale
>>2980994It makes sense for full time tilers with lots of repetitive motion. I want as much confidence as I can gather moving large pieces of glass, tile, stone.
>>2980980anon, this is still infinitely better than i could ever hope to achieve, great job
I laser cut this tray for my micrometers out of 5 layers of ~1/4" plywood. Now I need to glue it up but I'm a machinist, not a woodworker (I've got a bit of basic carpentry experience but not any kind of fine woodworking), any recommendations for glue to use and any relevant techniques?
>>2981036Put sheet on topPut sheet on bottomSand lightly at 180Aliphatic resin is my fav for stuff like this (titebond original). Dries fast and you can remove any residue with damp cloth
>>2981036any decent wood glue, like titebond or whatever. the procedure is usually>slightly sand both surfaces and wipe clean>smear glue on the whole surface>put 2 elements together>clamp tight with wood clamps>wipe off excess>leave overnightin your case though you're better off with putting a fresh sheet of plywood on top and putting a few weights on top, because i can't see you clamping this shape in any reasonable way
>>2981037>Aliphatic resinlmao>>2981036like everyone else said, any wood glue. if you wanna be cool laser in some holes for dowels to keep it aligned while the glue dries. turn off your air assist for engraves next time
>>2981037>>2981038Gotcha, sounds like what I had in mind should work then. I'll get some regular titebond, I've only got the waterproof kind around and have had bad luck with staining over it. I've got a sheet of 3/4 plywood that I use as a secondary workbench (on sawhorses) for outdoor/dirty stuff and I was thinking I might make a jig with a couple of 1x1s or something so I can align the stack, gotta figure out how to not glue the project to the jig though. For clamping I was thinking a sheet of something on top and then clamp onto that (I've got some of those Pony ratchet hand clamps that ought to be able to reach around far enough), but maybe weights would be easier.>>2981040Dowel holes would've been cool if I'd thought of it, but I can't get the parts back on the laser in time - this is for a laser+plasma cutting class that just wrapped up and I need to turn the finished project in on monday, along with pic related clock (which will get the same stain at the same time, along with some brass hardware). Good point on the air assist as well, would've done that if I'd thought of it but it was all done in one setup and turning the compressor on and off is a pain in the ass with the way it's set up at my school. (You have to crawl under a desk to get to the switch.)
>>2981042wrap your cauls or whatever your using to align in plastic wrap or use wax paper and glue won't stick to them
>>2981046Yeah, basically what I was thinking.
Got it glued up, not perfect but more than good enough for government work. You'll notice the different grain, I'd actually engraved two top layers and the one in the previous pic cracked at the thinnest part (you'll notice it if you look close in the previous pic) so I made it a lower layer. Now I just hope it actually fits in the toolbox where it needs to go, felt like it would when just holding the stack but it's close, the corner cuts are to allow it to angle into where it goes.
Anyone here into timber framing?
>>2981086i can join 2x4s with grk screws if that's what your asking
>>2981078looks good i think the grain direction change between the bottom and top layers makes it pop better than that felt or whatever. what are you studying?
>>2981105The grain direction does look cool, but I think I need the felt in there to protect the sensitive tools that go inside it, plus my instructor really likes to see projects that use multiple materials. I think the felt will also protect the wood a bit from oils etc. on the tools as well. I'm a machining major but my school goes out of its way to include extra related stuff like a bit of welding, a decent amount of CAD, 3D printing (which I also just took), and this "automated cutting" class where we worked with a plasma table and laser.
>>2981086I've hewn several beams, and have made a timber framed arbor for my brother's wedding. Working on beams for a green house right now, though it has been on hold for winter.
First coat of stain on, but as I feared the plywood isn't holding up with the grain direction that way, the top veneer is chipping every time I look at it funny. I think I'm gonna have to make another one of these out of solid wood, at least for the top layer. I wish I had access to a CNC router so I could just carve the whole thing out of a solid block.
>>2981169Do you hew with a felling axe or a hewing specific axe? Also what kind of broad axe do you use?
Is anyone in here good at dovetails? I welcome machine or hand cut. I have enough issues doing one corner with the router jig. Trying to do four corners is a waste of my time.
>>2981243OP pic is mine, weird seeing it after all these years. Dovetails are easier to cut by hand than with a router unless you need to do lots, don't even need to lay them out unless they are for show. Mark the depth of the tails with what ever, dividers to mark out spacing, cut them free hand and eyeball the angles. Mark the depth of your pins, if you have a rabbet/moving fillister plane use that for the depth and take one shaving on the inside the piece for the pins. Use the side with the tails to scribe the pins, if you did the pass with the rabbet/moving fillister this is easy as can be, just press it against that tiny lip it gave you. Scribe the tails to get the pins, cut the pins. Assemble. Roy does an abbreviated version of it in https://www.pbs.org/video/the-woodwrights-shop-the-till-in-the-tool-chest/ but if memory serves he does not use a rabbet/moving fillister plane in this one. He has a few other episodes on dovetails and a few episodes which use them, watch them.The dovetail is the most forgiving joint there is, it will do its job as long as things are close and if you don't get obsessed with perfection it is easy, and after you do a handful of functional but not perfect dovetails you will get to perfection in short order. Make some things which don't require perfection or where the joints will be hidden and no one will notice if they are not perfect, you will get there. Nothing wrong with slipping a plane shaving in there when you glue up to fill a gap, no one but you will know.
>>2981086It's why I open this thread but it's always glue sniffers
>>2981265I would prefer 5-10 boxes per day. Half blinds on the jig involves solving for depth, aligning things left and right, and constantly switching the jig and material orientation. This is compounded when it's four corners that need to wrap vs just two corners where I can waste the ends on the tablesaw. After all of that there's a good chance the router chips out as I'm trying to work. I believe shops run dedicated dovetail machines or just use cnc.
Got them done. Something went fucky with the finishing but at least they're workable products. Here's the mic tray in situ.
>>2981299And the clock, which will actually end up somewhere in the school building, I just hung it temporarily for the pic. Looks really good in person even with the iffy finishing, I think I may have done the second coat a little too early and some tiny bits of steel wool (used as directed on the can) got stuck in the first layer.
I'd like to get into woodworking, but currently I don't have too much space so I thought I'd start out with some wood-carving until I got some more space towards the end of the year. Anyone got some advice? Or some good youtube channels for wood carving?
>>2981237I use a normal 4 lb felling axe, but on a 32 inch handle for roughing. Handle length is subjective though, but I find the shorter length is better for cutting the notches for juggling, otherwise you tend to hit your abs when trying to cut the upper part of the notch. It was just an old antique head. The important thing is to thin the cheeks well if it needs it, and to thin the handle since those mostly come too thick and rigid. The hewing axe I forged myself. It is in the medieval style, so relatively light for the broadness of the bit (~10"), as they are pretty skeletonized. This let's me be more accurate imo. But if you stay away from the 8lb heads you will likely be fine. Those were meant for busting out railroad ties back in the day. You don't need much broadness to do good work really, it is just slightly faster. I started out with a 4" hewing hatchet head. ~6" is probably good, or a little more. You can always move up as your get stronger and more skilled. Accuracy matters a lot, as well as some theory of how wood grain works.
is a knew concepts coping saw worth it? Seems nice for cutting box joints
>>2981339Pics of my axes. The one on the right is one I bought and carved a handle for, but I think I still like the one I forged, despite my lack of skill in forging. It is a type of hewing axe I recommend looking for on eBay though. I bought a 12" broad axe too, but it was much too big of a chungus to swing well at my current strength level. Remember, you have to hit accurately a lot to finish even one face.
>>2981339>>2981392I guess I should also say, get some chainmail socks/shin protection. It is expensive, but less so than an axe to the shin. Your hewing broadaxe should be kept very sharp, and the motion is inherently prone to glancing off on accident.
$2750, 1400 profitWhat's your excuse wwg?https://youtube.com/shorts/ewN5-qKAiLk
>>2981285Lots of shops use routers for dovetails, they do the job and are easy to replace when something goes wrong with them. Chip out is solved by using a backing board. If you are going to do 5 or 6 boxes a day all with the same dovetailing, router is a good way to go but it quickly becomes time consuming if you are going to be changing the dovetailing much. Hand cutting could be fine here as well, depends on the designs and materials. If you are going to be switching up your dovetailing between boxes, hand cutting has some serious advantages. >>2981376I find it slower than just chiseling it out in the first place but nice for some woods. I just use a homemade string tensioned frame saw, can put on plenty of tension and I find them more comfortable to use. Knew Concepts is mostly addressing faults in that particular style of coping saw which did not exist in the old wooden saws, the weight of the frame being so far from the handle. On the old fashioed wood style you grip the frame, the handle is just for adjusting the blade, you never have to fight the weight of the frame. >>2981403Dealing with customers is not worth the headache.
>>2981429Make the pieces you want, then list them if you feel like it. "Commissioning a piece" is a stupid business model that hands over control to the customer. They're not the artist or a woodworker. Every inch of rope you lend to a customer, they will tie into a noose for you.
Just spent way too long building pair of Hickory replacement handles for wheelbarrow. Had to select a piece of wood that was only big enough for three pieces out of it lots of drama cutting it as my table size currently 110 volt, at least draw knife thing and sanding the handles went fine
>>2981506Selling direct is the worst by far, you are dealing with average consumers with the consumer is always right mentality. Majority of people who do commissions have far more connection to reality and the ones that don't generally go to the big shops because they have the consumer mentality and big shops have lots of reviews. Studios/galleries (even the consignment sort) are better than selling direct and if you put in the effort to get your work into a good one you will probably make more money than selling direct.
>>2981624Provide ten example studios and 10 wood working builds that are easier than $700 epoxy rectangle.
>>2981506>>2981624should be an easy argument to resolve, both of you post a pic of your best-selling piece(s)
>>2981707I'm busy arguing with a customer what left hand and right hand doors can and can not do. They want the door to swing the other way but the hinges to stay on the same side.
>>2981743>>2980805the pretend woodworker is immunized against all dangers: one may call him a scoundrel, parasite, swindler, profiteer, it all runs off him like water off a raincoat. but ask him to post an example of his endeavors and you will be astonished at how he recoils, how injured he is, how he suddenly shrinks back: "i've been found out"
>>2981754I'm a pro. I circumvent honest woodworking with a number of auxiliary skills. My flexing isn't fair, being neither diy nor true woodcraft.
>>2981707>best-selling piece(s)You think I am a factory or something? closest I came to mass production was making 16 matching dining chairs.
>>2981860may we see them?
i bought a few raw oak boards, like with the bark and all still on them, to get some experience in working woodand i immediatelly got cold feet. i'm gonna have to stop watching all those videos and actually try and do something and i feel like i'm gonna fuck everything up and waste all that money i spent on some tools and wood and the time i spent setting the working area upthanks for reading my blog
>>2981988if you're that worried go buy some cheap wood to pop your cherry
>>2982093amen brother, but it's not polite to beg
>>2982085i already built basic stuff with cheap pine wood, i even did my own kitchen with preformatted melamine, it's just now i'll be building jigs, finishing real wood and trying to actually make appealing things and not just "yeah it stands upright and only sags a little, mission accomplished"anyway i'm shitting up the thread so i'll shut up and report later with actual woodworking
Quite new to woodworking, made this cabinet.Will be using it to evaporate sea water, harvesting the salt.Curious how it will work
gf wants me to remove the stain on some old storebought chairs, problem is, I'm an apartmentfag. A scraper got through the varnish no problem, but the stain is really deep in the wood. How miserable is using a random orbital sander with no dust collection on a balcony?
You guys are serious talented. All I want to make is a butcher's block and some wooden utensils KEK
>>2982122kek I thought you were making one of those display cases from Skyrim until I read the description
>>2982142that's the 4chan post survivorship bias anon>>2982124depending on the wind and the weather, pretty sweet to extremely miserable. wear a mask so you don't get cancer
>>2981872That was 20 years ago, if I still have the photographs they are buried in a box in the attic.
are plunge routers supposed to be "difficult" to actually plunge? i bought one to practice and maybe get some stuff done, but to move it down i have to press on it very firmly and it doesn't slide down smoothly, so actually moving into wood feel sketchy as fuckalso, how can i move the router bit an exact distance down? nevermind the stiff action, i have this stop block on it, but it's graded every 3mm, what if i want to go down 10mm? is there some sort of trick?
>>2982254There's no depth stop? I would assume most are going to run at full depth. I don't think it will lock into partial settings the way a miter saw stops at zero, 45, 22.5.
>>2982262you mean the vertical bar that you can lock and the rotating thing(stop block?) ? yeah it has those, but it's every 3mm. what if i want to route 5mm down? it's either 3 or 6.
>>2982265With the motor off, push down to set the bit at the surface, put a 5mm object (setup blocks are handy here, you can also use a workpiece item if you're insetting it) between the depth stop bar and the turret and lower the bar until it pinches, then lock it down. Use two-three steps and make multiple passes if the bar is sitting higher than each step on the turret.If you've released the lock arm and it's still really hard to plunge, you might need to get it serviced.
>>2982289
>>2982254https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ox5BD3B77oA
>>2982289>>2982290>>2982291thanks anons, i more or less understand nowi'm honestly pretty hyped, i test drove it yesterday and it looks like a pretty fucking fun tool, i'm looking forward to learning. took a piece of scrap softwood plank and tried carving stuff out, it's honestly much more stable than i thought it would be.
>>2982349If you plunge straight down, you need a bit that cuts in the center and not just the perimeter. Picrel is the most common type, as you can see there's no teeth in the center. If you plunge straight down, you'll bump again the center "plug" of uncunt wood.You can plunge slow and wiggle the router side to side until you hit your depth, or get a center-cutting bit.
I bought some more sandpaper and had to resort it to fit it into my shelf, so I figured I might as well make le epic funnee meme out of it.>I'm gonna saaaaaaaaaaaaaaand!
>>2982785pretty funny ano>festoolfuck outta here richfag
>>2982785>40 gritcrashin out
>put wood in miter box>put saw in 45 degree slot>saw>mfw it's all wonky
>>2982790>richfagNot really. If you buy the big (25-100pc, depending on grit) boxes, Festool (or mirka, for that matter) is much cheaper per piece than buying singles or 5-packs of shitty ass no-name paper from the big box store. Only issue is Festools proprietary hole pattern, but their mesh is just, well, mesh and their delta paper don’t match Bosch et als holes but you can simply drill the Festool pattern into a cheap Bosch replacement head for dust extraction. >>2982842Yeah baby! Going coarse!
>spend six hours in the shed>one (1) piece of wood flattenedlearning is hard
>>2982907>spend an hour measuring shit>mfw realize I based all measurements on a face that isn't squareI'll never learn
>>2982907Learning to use hand planes are pretty much the same as learning to ride a bike, you fail a bunch and then suddenly you get it and progress quickly once you learn not to think about it. How the plane move across the board and how the shavings come out of the plane will tell you everything you need to know once you learn to not think about it and you won't have to constantly stop and check your progress. One of the common beginner mistakes is always planing with the grain and taking full length passes. If you have any prominent high spots, take them down going perpendicular to the grain then go 30-45 degrees off the grain, then the opposite 30 or 45, repeat until nearing thickness and/or flat, then with the grain to finish. When learning it can help to do a few full length passes between each of those stages, don't worry about getting things smooth, just a single pass across the width so you can see where it is still high and see how the angled passes affected things. Once you develop the feel for working perpendicular and at angles to the grain you can make short work of things, there is less resistance the more off the grain you go so you can take a bigger bite, especially for those perpendicular passes just knocking down the high spots, but when learning it is good to stick with the fine cut, mistakes stay small and it give you more time to learn the process, you can do that quick full length pass between steps to see the progress and faults in your technique while you still have time to correct them. >>2982909Not a problem if they were all based off that same face, everything will work.
I want to do some handtools-only woodworking in my rentcuck apartment. I have a roughly 150x50cm (60x20") space available, picrel. Would this suck donkey dick or is it actually workable? Can I do anything to limit (for example) hammering sounds from traveling to my downstairs neighbor?I was thinking of building something like the thing at the bottom of the image, but without the trench and putting the legs on the corners to allow for more storage space.I don't have any experience and I'm retarded so I can't tell if this is a retarded idea.
>>2982990Maybe I could also add a little back wall to hang some tools on and protect the wall with?
>>2982990seems fine to me, fuck your neighbor
>>2982990Poly urethane mallet will decrease the noise a fair amount and are surprisingly nice, easy on the chisel handle and transmit more of the force into the chisel instead of bouncing. Bought one of picrel for $2 at a rummage sale thinking it would be great for assembly, ended up using it for everything and bought one of the small ones as well.>>2982992Backs for hanging stuff suck, everything on it will bounce and things will fall when you start banging. If you want that sort of storage, hang it on the wall, don't attach it to the bench. Tool troughs are quite nice, gives you a place to put tools and work out of the way while keeping things in easy reach.
>>2982993>fuck your neighborI wish I was sigma like that>>2982995>Backs for hanging stuff suckGood point. Maybe I'll just not hang anything and only use it to protect the wall and fix lighting to it so I can watch myself fuck up my projects and fingers in 4K HDR. I can't put stuff on the wall because I'm a rent cuck.>poly mallet to reduce noiseIntredasting, I will remember that.
>>2982990Looks good. Personally, I like having a tool well. I think that pic related has plenty of storage as in under the bench. I would consider making the bench longer by around two feet if you can afford the space. It isn't just about the longest thing you possibly would need to plane, but having room to work while being able to leave tools, parts, etc in easy reach while you're working on it. For example, as you're planing, you can leave your plane there on the table and use your straightedge/square, winding sticks to check your work. Having a tool well and a slightly larger bench top is useful for this. You don't want to get a thing out of the drawer or off a hook repeatedly in cases like that.
>>2983006I'm really short on space so I'm even considering not putting in the tail vise. Also wouldn't the tool well be really annoying considering the bench is only 20" deep? Maybe I'll add a tool well if I can ever find another place with more space.
>>298301720" is plenty to have a tool well, most of the time you are working on the front ~8" of the bench even when your work is wider than that. Have a few scraps of the same thickness as the well's depth for those rare times you actually need to do heavy work on the back half of the bench. I would gave a 20" bench an 8" well with 2" behind it. Wells are most useful on smaller benches, things are always getting in the way and knocked off on small benches, a well makes this much less of an issue.
>>2983019I'll have another think about it later. I'm also not sure if I should add more drawers in the empty space directly below the bench top so that'll keep my thinking brain busy for another 144 hours or so I reckon.
>>2983020Personally, I hate drawers in work benches, they collect sawdust and you hear stuff rattle everytime you whack the chisel. I go with making a few toolboxes to fill the space, they seal better than drawers and you can pull them out from under the bench and everything is already portable for those times you are going to go help out a friend, etc. But some like drawers. Also, if you go with the well, skip the ramps at the ends, nice for sweeping the dust out but you are just going to suck it out with a vacuum in an apartment, unless you want to fling dust all over your apartment. Also nice to have the well not go full length, have it a foot or so short on one end so you get full depth there, most of the time we need the depth we only need it at an end, the rest of the time we need it the work can just bridge over the well and rest on that 2" behind it.
>>2982948>Learning to use hand planes are pretty much the same as learning to ride a bikethanks, but i used a router sled in the end. that was what i wanted to do at the beggining, however i thought "i have these piece of shit planes lying around, are those any good?", and turns out they weren't, and also i have no idea how to use them properly. i basically gouged the wood and the plane boounced a lot.i'd like to buy a proper flattening plane and train, but they're expensive, so i'll wait for a sucker to sell one online close to my place.>>2982990i'm practicing in a 4x3 meter shed right now with shit inside i can't move. it's doable anon, but don't expect cabinet-making ability.
i tried making a bow tie as practice, used a piece of oak and picrel is the result. i think my chisel is relatively sharp, not like super folded milion times sharp, but sharp enough. if i go "with grain" i get small bitts falliing off. if i go from the top i basically either not grap the wood at all (the chisel slides on the surface), or i get particles fallig off or i tear out larger chunks on accident. thiss is with pushing by hand, using a small hammer etc.if i want to put this into a piece of wood, i'd have to chisel out a place for it from the top, and i'd probablt get the same exact result instead of clean edges and then it'ss game over cause i can't just start over. what am i doing wrong here?
>>2983048I would cut the other direction with bandsaw, scroll, dovetail, or coping. I also don't think you need a full 3/4" thickness for the inlays. Chisels are never sharp enough. The metal needs to be of good quality and it still takes a craftsman to hone the edge. A third issue is the type of cut. Anytime you're cutting across the lignin will be more difficult. Notice you had an easier time in the middle of the bow when it's almost parallel to the grain. On top of this the cutoff is probably in the way of your chisel. Most chisels and planes are tuning up lumber edges after enough relief cuts are made. If they dive into a bulk of material, the bevel of the blades either bind or hit wood regardless of whether or not the edge is still cutting. Basically just always slow down and refine your process.
>>2983017Personally, mine is 24" deep with 12" of bench and 12" of well. It is rare when I run out of bench, and you can temporarily block in the well if you need it level (though it is obviously less steady than your real bench top there). It is definitely something that is personal preference. The debate on well or no well has been going on for literal centuries. A good thing is that your can add a well easily afterward, especially since your benchtop depth isn't crazy (don't want to reach 36 inches or anything all the time) and the well can be lightly built hanging off the back.
>>2983073i watched some videos, tried to sharpen the chisel even more and tried on another piece, it went better. i think it's both shitty tools and lack of experience.thanks for the advice, really appreciate it.
>>2983048If you think your chisel is sharp, its not sharp. Everything you say and your picture suggests it is not all that sharp. Even cheap steels can be made razor sharp, it won't be as durable but adapting your technique within the limits of the steel will remedy that. High end hand saws are still made from steel left soft enough that they can be sharpened with a file and can do a great deal of cutting between sharpenings, hell, I occasionally make one time use tools out of brass and use them on very dense woods like ebony. Chisels, regardless of hardness, go dull quickly if they are not sharp enough to do what you ask of them and the duller it is the more that damage happens when you force it, softer steels roll, harder steels crumble and/or chip. My Primary chisels are the Stanley socket chisels that everyone calls garbage, they hold up just as well as my "good" chisels for most jobs, I might not not hit them as hard as some of my other chisels when chopping across the grain in dense woods but that is not that big of a deal unless I am doing a kitchen's worth of dovetailed drawers.Keep practicing, pay attention to how and when your edge fails so you can avoid repeating it. You will get there. >>2983074Filling in a well he decides he does not want would probably be a better path for him, he is already building the bench as big as he feels comfortable with in his small space.
>>2983048can you shave the hairs off your balls (or arm if you're a pussy) with the chisel?
>>2983088>>2983104thanks anons, picrel is attempt 2. i tried to sharpen a ~2cm wide chisel as sharp as possible and i thought it was sharper thhan the last time, but still it didn't cut as well as in some youtube videos. i managed to at least do something along the grain, but across the grain was pretty much a case of squishing and tearing out the wood.then i took a smaller chisel and tried sharpening that one even more. took anon's advice to heart about shaving balls and tried the chisels on my arm every time and i wanna claim it cut one hair off, but might've been me trying to gaslight myself.anyway picrel is the result of the second chisel. i was pretty discouraged but i feel like this at least looks like something that can be improved upon even further, so maybe there's some hope aftter all.
>>2983166zooming in looks crazy. I thought that was an 8" oak slab.
>>2983166>and i wanna claim it cut one hair off, but might've been me trying to gaslight myself.hair poppin sharp means whe you glide over your skin the hairs will bounce away in all directions, not simply bite into the edge and get torns off.I dont want to sound like an elitist, but thats basically the entrie fee for joinery, and its not even hard to pull off, just some training and the proper gear
>>2983174no that's just 25-30mm or so>>2983191yeah well i'm 6 hours total into this chisel business, so not exactly tons of experience>and the proper gearchisels that look like someone used them to open paint cans or chisel concrete.attempt 4, there was attempt 3 but didn't take a pic. used the same small shitty chisel and just alternated between carving stuff and trying to sharpen it even more back and forth. there's a gap on one side in the middle but overall i feel like it's okayish for a first attempt
>>2983166Just wait until you buy a gouge.Most beginners make the mistake of letting the bevel support the chisel, they plop it on the stone and press on the back of the blade right behind the bevel hard enough that it will stand there on its bevel with no support from the hands and then go at it; this is not good, it will not develop the technique required to sharpen things which don't have a good sized bevel to support the blade and generally will not get a good edge on things with that bevel.Press the bevel into the stoned with your thumb(s), hold it at that angle with your hands and remove the pressure from your thumbs, push the chisel across the stone and let the sound and feel of it tell you if the bevel is not making full contact. Practice like this with no pressure applied by your thumbs, it will barely cut but error caused by poor technique will be small and easy to fix. once you have it, apply a bit of pressure and sharpen it. It does not take much pressure, let the stone do the work. Letting the bevel support the blade is part of the poor reputation of the old steels like W1, how they are made they are only at full hardness on the back of the blade where it matters, the front can be quite soft. When you support the blade with the bevel on a chisel like this the top of the bevel wears faster and you end up slowly decreasing the angle which lifts the edge from the stone just enough that it never gets good and sharp. Steels like A2 have very even hardness through the entire blade so this doesn't happen, but having that even hardness means it is slow to sharpen and using the bevel to support the blade means you never develop proper technique. >>2983201Technique has improved quite a bit, both sharpening and chiseling. Good work, anon.
>>2983166>>2983201>>2983202Cut the ties with a saw, and use something else to hog out most of the inset material, like a drill/brace with a forstner or just route it out most of the way, then use a chisel to pare the edges.
>>2983166>i wanna claim it cut one hair offIt is still not sharp OP. I dunno how to help you though, I can't sharpen shit either.
>>2983217The thickness of his ties strongly suggests he plans on doing full thickness ties, saw and chisel is far easier and quicker than drill/route and chisel. For making the ties themselves, standard way is single relief cut at the waist and then use the chisel to remove the wood, much quicker and easier than sawing them out, can hog out the bulk in a couple whacks and then pare to perfection.
>>2983219the most brain dead method to get something sharp is a coarse strop.form a small burr, strop both sides a minute on an Autosol coated strop
where is a good place other than ebay to sell machineryI have a lot of machinery but most of it is 3 phase
>>2983566fb marketplace i supposeremember to not get scammed like a dunce
>>2983570how can I get scammed? fake money?
>>2983571there's tons of methods anon. fake cheques, advance fee scams, sob stories to lower your guard, overpayment "please forward it to my mover" scams, fake payment emails, "is it okay if i pay by zelle?" chargeback, so on so forth.
>>2983572Didn't know about the zelle method and almost accepted a payment like that for a shipped smaller machine via freight a couple days ago, got any more info you can share on how it works?I thought zelle was a "you send it, its theirs" type of deal
>>2983575zelle (etc) chargebacks are honestly more of a "whoops i sent it by accident can you send it back?". they send you money from a stolen credit card, you send it back, months later the card bank reverses the first transaction because it was stolen money, but what you sent was legit, so you're in the hole.honestly i just read through /r/scams once a week, just to stay informed, it's a nice resource. if you're selling stuff i'd honestly just accept meeting in person only and cash in hand, nothing else.
>>2983582Damn didn't know that thank you. Last time I sold machines it was in cash only so I'll keep doing that even for my 3 phase monsters
should i buy carpenter pencils? a whole box of irwin ones that is a good deal or a small expensive set to tryidk how much i will end up using but really sick of pencils falling off the table and breaking or trying to write on a board and pressing slightly too hard and breaking sharpening regular pencils basically takes off a huge portion and doesn't grantee the lead not breaking during sharpening do you think carpenter pencils last longer
>>2981624what kinda studios
>>2983601They're fine for rough carpentry work and framing, but you're really better off with a mechanical for precision work. To sharpen carpenter's pencils you're also using a knife to shave off a ton of the pencil.The Pica Dry or Dixon Deep Reach are both good choices with built-in sharpeners for a heavy, thick lead model with a and narrow shaft for marking through screw holes, or just a standard thin-lead model from Target is fine for precision marking with a square.
>>2983607ugh that crap with special snowflake lead you loose a $20 one it's gone but you still have lots of spares in a box i work outdoors sometimes
>>2983608I mean, you can buy a bulk pack of plastic basic ones for less than a pack of carpenter pencils, or a decent metal one for $10. But the two I listed by name have clip-on holsters if you're worried about losing them.
>>2983601Carpenter's pencils see an equal amount of usage measuring 1/4" and 1/2" where it's inconvenient or just being a shim. It's for field work, but I tend to use them everywhere. Try them out, it's not for everybody.
>>2983616they're gay like vape pens
>>2983618>When you're so insecure that the color of the pencil you're using makes you uncomfortable
>>2983619nah he's right those are gay as fuck, only non-chink black or grey are acceptable
>>2983608also these are fucking r*ddit-tier and will turn you trans
>>2983607>but you're really better off with a mechanical for precision workNo, you need a knife. >marking through screw holesJust use an awl or a nail or the fucking screw
>>2983631these are awesome for that and made in usa
I want to buy a first tool for woodworking, I'm considering either a Dewalt DWE7492 or a Miter Saw ( Dewalt or makita maybe?) which one would be better for a "do most shit" kind of tool?I'd like to try making some small tables or boxes / trays, nothing insanely mindblowing.I also considered getting a ryoba / chisels and a handplane but I'm not sure if I'm gonna enjoy the hassle of sharpening tools, also getting a used handplane here in krautland is retarded since everyone wants to sell their basically broken shit for 150 bucks.
>>2983636interesting because i was considering the same tool to do mindblowing stuff
>>2983638Of course the mindblowing projects are soon to follow
>>2983636Table with crosscut sled for shop. The miter is for trimming.
>>2983636Not a table saw. Yes you can do everything on one doesn’t mean you should. It cant cut anything somewhat wide unless you build an extra table for, and for long cuts you need a crazy amount of free space.> mitreI think metabo and hikoki make the better consumer mitre saws for about the same price. If you want to keep cost down the circular saw+mitre combo is probably the nicest. Or start with just a track saw as cross cutting by hand is pretty easy to learn > ryobaGet one anyway, theyre cheap and really useful. A razorsaw is like €30 and replacement blades €15
>>2983636miter saw, i have a metabo hpt it's pretty good, have to re-square it every 6 months but it's a lot more versatile than a table saw for beginner projects. don't expect to do tables though unless you're getting the big box store to precut plywood for you, and definitely don't expect to do full wood table tops with it
>>2983636Depends what you want to do. I trend towards smaller projects and my first power saw is a barrel grip jigsaw.Table saws can be very versatile, but you need to buy multiple blades, build/buy jigs, and in general think in a very specific "safety and creativity" intersection on how to safely do stuff with one.Miter saws are really good at crosscuts. Great at putting angles and bevels on the ends of them. Great at sizing down big lumber to work piece lengths. Not great for anything small.
Man was not meant to remove flat, square sections from the ends of wood, I've concluded.
>>2983636You don’t need to buy a tablesaw, you can just make one. Not that youtubers are anything great, but some of the hard-core woodworkers make their own tablesaws.
>>2983675Hows working with a jigsaw? It always looks like jigsaw cuts are pretty wobbly since there's no guides to move it along.
>>2983700That's the only purpose the jigsaw is correct for, wobbly cuts. Circ, table, miter, multitool, router, even angle grinder get plenty of turns. I don't even carry a jigsaw anymore and don't miss it.
>>2983691i made one the arbour is just a bolt between pieces of hardwood and the blade held between two washers and bolts the bolts are keyed so they don't come loose
>>2983636>also getting a used handplane here in krautland is retarded since everyone wants to sell their basically broken shit for 150 bucks.hey join the club, motherfuckers here in poland selling barely working shit for premium prices cause "i know what i got", nigger you ain't got shit.a man is literally selling a 50 year old planer/thicknesser/whatever multitool for $2k+ equivalent, just becasue it's "unused". like someone bought it and then stashed it for 50 years, and it's not even a good tool, it's cheap commie shit, i can see the rust on the fucking pictures.i hate people.
>>2983700I use one of these when I need a straight cut. https://www.harborfreight.com/24-inch-clamp-and-cut-edge-guide-66126.htmlCombine that with a set of Diablo blades that includes one that has all the teeth set towards the center and just taking my time with the cut and I get really nice, clean, square cuts..>>2983691>Finger Remover 3000
>>2983705>Doesn't know how to use one well
>router plane a piece of wood>has some slight marks so get a 60grit sandpaper to sand them down>doesn't work very well so i double down on it>after a while it's smooth>spray it with water so the wood hair come out>leave it alone for a while >come back to the wood having poxis this at all salvageable without scraping off the top 1-2mm? i dunno if the sandpaper's been shit quality or maybe a wrong type, but it looks like the material is embedded in the wood. i tried using water and wiping, solvent and wiping, trying to scrape it off slowly, sanding with 250grit and so far nothing works
>>2983742Hard to see in that picture what you are talking about. Those tiny black spots? And you’re implying those might be pieces of your sandpaper (I.e. the “sand”) embedded in the surface?Even with cheapo paper, o can’t really think of a mechanism that would embed particles deep into the wood surface. What brand of paper and what machine did you use?
>>2983742>>2983839Also, forgot to ask:You word it, like you used only 60 grit to get it that smooth, that you felt the need to water it, to go even smoother. That’s not how it works. You can’t go that smooth with 60 grit. If you’ve done all the source with 60 grit, you go up in grit (120 is the usual next step) to make it smoother, mostly by now smoothing the coarseness you introduced with your 60grot paper. Using your 60grit longer will just remove more material, but it will always stay the same coarseness. Maybe unless you sand that long that you loose all grit and start polishing the surface with the molten glue of the sandpaper.
>>2983839>>2983841thanks. yes that's what i'm implying. i planed 2 pieces and sanded only one, and now the one that's sanded is like that, while that other one looks like regular wood. i used some pos big box store paper (black) and did it by handand yes i know i can't get it smooth with coarse paper, i sprayed it with water to get the wood hair to stand up so i can then sand it with more fine paperi can't think of any other reason why the wood turned black like that
>>2983853>i can't think of any other reason why the wood turned black like thatembedded iron + water + tannic acidor sic particles from the wet and dry
>>2983853you sure it's not just that you sprayed it with dirty water from a disintegrating hose or something?
>>2983741There are nicer jigsaws, but it's still an inferior tool to all of those listed. The entire point of the jigsaw is that it's stupid easy and maneuverable. That doesn't compensate the fact that it doesn't cut cleanly or quickly.
>>2983878>That doesn't compensate the fact that it doesn't cut cleanly or quickly.Skill issue.
>>2983888Post your jigsaw projects. I'm ready to learn.
>>2983900Jigsaw to cut the ends square, then a router to cut the dado for the cheese cutter.
>>2983900https://www.diablotools.com/products/DJT308BFP5This is the blade I use for really clean work. Take your time, use a guide, and don't force it. Forcing it's what causes deflection and ugly/unsquare cuts.
>>2983900
>>2983857>>2983858i bought some new, supposedly high quality paper and used an orbital sander gently this time, on another board, picrel is the result, this is after spraying it twice(and sanding after that).my conclusion is that i used shitty paper that's not really for woodworking, and pressed on it way too hardalso fucking lovely how smooth the wood has become, can't get enough of it
>>2983986How did you make the 20 inch rip with the jigsaw?
>>2984002the what? sorry maybe you're thinking of another anon, i cut these with a miter saw
>>2983916I might use a resaw, a circsaw and track if you need it, a planer, and an orbital. But a jigsaw is pretty good at covering all these bases.
