For an office worksurface (desk) in solid oak, would you recommend polyurethane based varnish or oil based treatment of the wood?
>>2986357I have years of experience with this, so bear with me here.First of all, consider using deskmats for the mouse and general work area. This will greatly reduce damage to the surface. The deskmats don't have to be gamer-level designs, unless that's your thing.As for the finish, use the precum that is dripping out of your tiny dicklet when mommy tells you to clench like a good boy. Just leak all over the surface and rub it in.
>>2986357I always cover the corners with a clean transparent tape because over the years my skin oils seep into the wood and wear down the corners my hands touch, this has happened with every desk I own, I just know to place tape right away now
>>2986357Just don'tIt won't turn out as nice as something you buy from a company unless you already have prior experience doing this and know what to expect>inb4 I don't want to pay $800 to a companyYou're gonna spend $300-400 on the wood, $50 on stain and other supplies, you'll have to do the labor yourself, and you risk fucking it all up. Spend the money goy
>>2986357Danish oil. It will give it a natural colour and very nice finish. Apply a thin coat once per day. Apply several coats so you slowly build up a nice thick coat.
>>2986360Nigger where the fuck you buy wood and stain?>>2986357Polyurethane obviously is much more resistant to wear than oil so for something that you'll be using on daily basis it's the best option unless you really prefer look of oil stains.
I ordered a sample (happy that I did before pulling the trigger) where PU based varnish is usedI lightly scratched it intentionally with my nails to put the "scratch resistance" qualities to the test. My light nail scratches are seemingly immediately and permanently visible. Wow this is not meeting the claims
>>2986360I don't intend to do it myself. Choosing the right one to order
>>2986357polyurethane varnish *intended for flooring*3-4 layers and the surface becomes pretty bulletproof, although I still recommend a desk mat
>>2986365see my post on >>2986363what you think about that? Product name usedRigoStep SKYLT
>>2986366I meant Rigo Skylt
>>2986360>$300-400 on the woodmore like 100 for 200x60cm its quite doable I have one myself works fine.
>>2986363Lol what a shitty product. Meanwhile things made 100 years ago don't fucking age,it's awesome.
>>2986357For office- definitely poly. Oil will soak into papers and make a mess. Oil is the nicer finish but you need something that dries to the touch. May I suggest a mette finish rather than glossy- will hide scratches and the like. Spray for nice finish. Pay a pro.
>>2986369yes, so whats the conclusion? what wood treatment should I pick for an oak desktop? Oil based?
>>2986370see the sample I ordered from a professional company>>2986363even scraping it lightly with my nails leaves permanent marks, what the fuck is this shit?
>>2986371And let it cure fully before using- take about 4 days. Dried and cured are different things.
>>2986371Oil. But my advice is :look on ebays for stuff made between 1900 and 1945 in oak. Import them from europe if need to even if you'll pay a lot.The bed i showed you were the bed of the grandparents of my neighbor,he's 60. It will outlast me and my children.
>>2986372Thats a light coat of finish. Either apply multiple coats (takes longer but more likely to meet you scratch requirements) or accept that wood scratches. Notice that the pores are still open/ exposed in your sample. If you want true scratch resistance, build up the poly such that the wood grain/ wood pores are completely closed and the poly receives 100% of objective contact and the wood none.
>>2986374Agree that oil is a beautiful finish, but not appropraite for office use. If not 100% dry, it will soak into papers, or bottom of anything touching it. If it is 100% dry, it has to be touched up with more oil or the wood dries out- much like happens with leather. Use mousepads. One extra tip to OP- if time/ budget allows, have the finisher coat all sides of the wood (bottom doesnt have to be perfect) so that the wood doesnt soak up ambient humidity at different rates, especially if building up the layers of finish. Poly is not vapor permeable like oil can be. Coating all side prevents warping, particularly if you live in humid environment. But dont get too lost in details- get your desk up and running and make some money and have some fun.
>>2986366It's a fucking shitty varnish then.I have a vintage desk coated with some random floor varnish I got from Leroy Merlin and I can't scratch it with my nails at all (but I still have a transparent mat over it so I don't have to think about putting hot mugs, sharp keys etc. on it)
>>2986375I feel like this company must not have very good standards, think about it, this is a sample on which potential purchase decision is going to be made. There is even a damage near the label which I did not makefucking shit, not ordering from them
>>2986370>Pay a pro.lmao staining and sealing an unfinised wood desk is the easiest fucking thing, I've seen women who have never held a screwdriver do it successfully
>>2986363>I lightly scratched it intentionally with my nails>My light nail scratches are seemingly immediately and permanently visibleStay away from my furniture, wolverina
>>2986363I can't even see the varnish on that thing, just get the raw oak and do it yourself.
>>2986357I have years of experience. put a formica laminate on it.
>>2986366Pic rel is my staircase handrail, cheap oak and 2 coats of Skylt after 2 years of daily use. Not sure how you managed to scratch it. I think it’s a great product, very natural look, hard to scratch.If going with oil be sure to use a desk mat consistently or acidic fatty sweat will stain the parts where you put your hands. And don’t spill any orange juice or tea on it
>>2986412is it possible they did not treat at all? (despite it being a sample with a label of the treatment name on it)shit doesn't add up, it doesn't even look smooth
>>2986412>Not sure how you managed to scratch itby intentionally running my nails over it to put it to the test
french polish and jigsaw
based on this shitty experience, I am really reconsidering the idea of taking an oak table top for my desk. might better stick with shitty laminated MDF
>>2986506Get the oak- its nore inspiring. Worst case you can refinish it differently and it can travel with you the rest of your life.
>>2986357i would recommend diabase
>>2986510yeah on the one hand I am sick and tired of garbage but it would suck to shell out like 800 bucks on something that turns out quite shitty as wellI think the company that sent me the sample is not serious, as someone mentioned, there are open pores, so they must have not done a good job
>>2986412can you call that a hand rail? how do you even grab it?
>>2986516personally I dont understand what im looking at in that pic
>>2986517This I reckon
>>2986518damn. I could have never figured this out
>>2986519The wall socket and power cable help. Anyway, what I can't figure out is how the fuck you're supposed to grab the rail.
>>2986520what do you think I should do with my situation? >>2986363>>2986515seems hard to find other sources
>>2986520>steep and europoorIt's probably a 2 ft wide stairway or whatever that converts to French about 0.2 meter. So clearly you just spiderman with both walls thus keeping the rail minty fresh.
Gonna recommend shellac. It's relatively cheap, easy to apply even if you're garbage at finishing, and can be touched up easily over time if it sees wear and damage. Depending on the wax content, you can get a nice deep amber color to the wood surface, making it appear older than it really is.
>>2986357I'm a fan of water based poly because it doesn't yellow and when applied in thin coats and allowed to dry, it's one heck of a sturdy surface that's easy to refinish if need be.>>2986360seeing as no company makes light wood 2100mm desks to my spec for under $1000 it really was a no brainer to diy
