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not a very good picture so you have to trust me on this one
I want to replace the timber wall in the picture (at the left of the bush with pink flowers) with something that will last a bit longer than 10 years
So I have to dig into the hill so I can fill the back of the wall with crushed rock (before building the wall itself (I haven't decided what yet but that's not important now)
The problem is that the only way to get rid of it (in an efficient way) is to carry it into the woods on the left
Uphill
The question is ... what's the best way?
The best idea I could come up with is building a chute out of some OSB or plywood and I can use some ropes to drag some sort of container uphill
Second best is using some of the pressure treated 6x6s to bury some steps into the slope and use them as steps to literally carry the dirt

To the right there's my house with very limited and/or awkward space around it to the driveway. Bringing stuff to build the wall will be a separate issue but that's a bridge I'll cross when I get to it

Any ideas are appreciated
>>
>>2987398
rent a mini excavator for a long weekend and start digging
>>
File: pnibhjkml.png (150 KB, 474x404)
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i bag dirt in hefty bags and haul, i have looked at sawdust separators because of their similarity to dewatering cyclones. i have seen duct tape conveyer belts.
>>
>>2987398
I'm confused, you're going to backfill the existing fence with crushed rock before building the new wall?
>>
>>2987398
>Uphill
Why increase the load on the future wall? Use a wheelbarrow to move the dirt to the downhill side of your house.
>>
>>2987403
Getting the excavator there is REALLY hard (limited space around the house)
>>2987410
Thanks for the ideas
>>2987420
there's no fence, just a timber wall
I'll remove the old wall, dig about a foot behind it, build a wall in its place and back-fill the freshly dug space with crushed rock
>>2987426
to the left of the picture, after the "uphill" portion, there's a small valley; that's where I'll throw the dirt
the problem I have is getting the dirt up the hill
the downhill side of my house is a driveway that connects to a common driveway, there's no place for dirt (unless I load it in my truck and take it to the dump)
>>
>>2987428
Obviously you should build a tunnel to the valley side.
>>
>>2987428
Is that little valley on your lot?
>>
>>2987438
It crossed my mind ...
Not a tunnel but a cellar
But I'm sure that whole thing is full of roots from the forest and big boulders (which might become a problem when digging behind the wall
>>2987439
it's county property
>>
>>2987451
If you plan on getting the permit, then inspectors will look around for the spoils pile. Keep it on your lot until the project is complete.
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sounds like its time to embrace tradition
this is the kinda shit hs kids used to do after school for gas money
>>
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>>
>>2987452
>4chan board
even if it's a serious one
>permit
yeah ... I've built so many things in/around that house not up to code and/or with no permit that I'll never sell it and I plan to die in it
on the plus side, this will be the most hidden project on this property
being one of the last houses up a common driveway also helps

>>2987465
pushing that thing up that steep hill is not going to end well

>>2987466
$450 a week close to me
not bad at all

Lastly, the plan evolved to keeping the bottom half the wall in place and digging from that level up (and back towards the hill)
After checking it more carefully, most 8x8s (except the top 1 or 2 layers) look very solid so that's why I'm ok with keeping the bottom half
Use the remaining bottom wall and the dug part as a seating area (most likely I'll use deck boards) and behind it build a smaller wall (or in some places no wall)
>>
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>>2987541
Green - deck
Blue - old wall
Orange - dirt/back fill
purple - new (smaller) wall
yellow - seating
>>
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82 KB JPG
>>2987542
uhh i would install a geo grid for the blue wall, you have a surcharge with that secondary wall; a small failure on the top wall will be much larger load than static one, most of those retaining wall stones at box stores can only do so much.
dig 6in+ extra and lay some safety netting between a few course and go back further than the new wall; the netting will pull the old wall into the hill and any added weight from a small failure will work against the dynamic forces. not exactly a dead man, but you're not transferring large load; spread that through the safety plastic netting, like velcro with each hole pulling against the dirt
inb4 i am geo-grid polyurethane purist.



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