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File: door open wide.jpg (735 KB, 1500x2000)
735 KB JPG
I installed a door to the kitchen in this old house.

The door was laying around with no hinges, so all I did was buy new hinges and install it in place.

When you turn the knob, it opens itself up to pic related. It closes and holds, but there is a distinct resistance as I try to close it.

I have more pics of the hinges and all the door gaps, will post ITT.

Any ideas what is wrong here?
>>
File: outer hinges.jpg (1.57 MB, 3016x2000)
1.57 MB JPG
Here's what the hinges look like from the outside. The top hinge door gap does seem rather tight. Bottom one seems fine?
>>
File: interior hinges.jpg (1.65 MB, 3016x2000)
1.65 MB JPG
Interior of the hinges.
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File: door gaps.jpg (1.37 MB, 3016x2000)
1.37 MB JPG
Gaps along each side of the door (hinge side is visible in the hinge photo)

Approx. half inch on the bottom, 1/8 on top, not sure about the left side but it looks fine to me.
>>
is the foundation ok
>>
>>2988256
Is the door frame square and plumb?
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>>2988256
hinge bound, out of plumb, air pressure gradient between rooms
>>
>The door was laying around
my first guess would be that the door warped from being stored improperly.
>>
Check the door stop for gaps while the door is closed, there should be minimal/no space between the door and the doorstop. If there's any gaps either the door isn't plumb or it warped.
>>
Resistance is hinge binding or the door and jamb making contact. It could be hitting the jamb or the stop, so you'll have to watch it from both sides. >>2988257 Looks too tight, and bottom hinge looks bound. You can shim with paper or cardboard behind the hinges, but if you rub into the opposing side then you're back in the blender. Fix binding by loosening one or two hinges and trying to realign them.
>>
oh look, morons

on the side you aren't taking pictures of, look at interference between the trim on the frame the door closes into. I'll bet there's outward pressure on the hinge side of the door due to no clearance so it pops open a little.

in your picture where the screw heads are visible on the hinges, look at the gap between the edge of the hinge and the rest of the door, and the gap between the back of the hinge and that trim piece on the frame.
>>
Get to work op and paint the wall while you're at it
>>
File: plumbness.jpg (793 KB, 2000x1500)
793 KB JPG
Checking for plumbness using a bubble level pressed up against the frame near the top hinge.

It is sliiiightly off to one side, but only marginally.
>>
File: shifted house.jpg (1.49 MB, 3004x2000)
1.49 MB JPG
Checking for squareness.

Shit. No good.
>>
File: trim rubbing.jpg (850 KB, 1500x2000)
850 KB JPG
>>2988315
Good call on this. Definitely is catching the trip at the very tip of the interior top corner of the door. That explains part of the resistance in closing it, no doubt.

I figure the out of square door frame probably has more to do with the door opening on its own.

Should I just hope the house eventually shifts back?
>>
>>2988374

you'd figure wrong.

that thin trim piece on the frame, remove and reattach with proper clearance if you have the tools and skill, cut or shave it if you don't.

im not gonna try and explain too much if the physics aren't clear to you, but that is causing the door to open on its own as well. It's pushing outwards on the door when there's contact in addition to providing resistance when it closes. the house isn't "gonna just shift back"

what fuckin world do you live in where blind hope is a coherent strategy? yikes

just gonna take this moment to call everyone else dumb one more time, it's really what this place is useful for.
>>
>>2988410
It's hitting the stop molding exactly as stated.



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