>>3008378
I have 0 experience with Solidworks and have just acquired it. How hard is it to turn existing .stl files into something I can work with in Solidworks? I've tried the free programs, and only had success using TinkerCAD, all the others were insufferable to use for one reason or another.

>>3008378
Thank you for making these OPs, OPanon.

>>3008325
>>3008338
I’ve been using a more primitive version of this same tool and I really like the shape. When using it one-handed, I can still provide good downwards force with my palm as my fingertips engage with the ribs of the body. When I don’t need much torque, I can put a finger atop the cap and spin the lower section of the body, or even the thin shaft. Being able to spin it by the shaft really makes it fast, so making it short and narrow at the end is important. And for maximum torque, you can put your body weight down on the bearing cap with one hand and twist the body with 2-3 fingers on the other hand. Or even put another hex-bit through the cross-hole and spin like a T-handle. I guess I could add a detent to the cross-hole.

I think it’s a bit too thin to cram in a spring-detent mechanism, I already have some magnets to hold the bit in place. I’m messing about with a fixed indentation, at the right protrusion it will provide some more positive location for the bit, but it will wear over time compared to a spring-loaded detent. I have been looking into cramming some sort of spring detent. I don’t really trust printed vertical springs, especially out of PLA, but it still seems more feasible than a horizontal clock-spring without supports.

The design is definitely a compromise, but I’ve already got a normal bit holder screwdriver, and this fits a different niche.

Also yeah I should probably add ridges in the top cap so it doesn’t roll away.

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let's start this thread with some positive vibes
>printing can save you money
we all know how to burn cash with a printer, but this is a post on how much you can save with it.

>The housing of the trunk release lever of one of my cars broke. The part with the red circle broke and got pulled in by the housing of the bowden cable. I guess the 35 year old ABS was at the end of its life. A new replacement part would cost me about a hundred bucks. A used part (if in stock, which it isn't) would still go for 40 to 50 bucks. So I just designed a kind of sleeve through which the bowden cable runs, while holding the housing of the cable in place. And with a large enough footprint to rest against the rest of the trunk release housing. Printed it in ASA (heat resistance and such) for the cost of maybe 6 cents (to be fair, I would have to add another 6 cents for one printed and failed design, but still 12 cents < 100 yurobucks). And the best thing is that it stays in place and works like a charm.

so /3dpg/ what was your biggest saving on a single print?

>Calibrate your printer.
ellis3dp.com/Print-Tuning-Guide/
teachingtechyt.github.io/calibration.html
Fix'd

>>3008392
Fixed someones car gear change cables with a tpu bushing someone else designed, that was probably the most cost saving because they only come with new gear cables.

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Can anyone explain what went wrong with these prints?
I made these supports for my box on the back of my motorbike and there's only one hole on the frame for me to mount this bracket to.
The top basically just has the hole stretched and the bottom snapped across.
Do I just need more wall layers? Not really sure how else to design this bracket, had printed them in PETG and lasted a few months before doing this on me.

>>3008392
printed a 3cm sprocket for a hoselink hose reel winding guide.
replacement parts aren't available since its a spring loaded hose with enough force to pull 20m of hose full of water, so enough force to maim if you fuck up and release the spring.
i only meant to use it for a few weeks while a replacement reel came back in stock, but its worked for 3 years now.

makes me worried about the OEM parts, since a silky PLA part is holding up better in the Australian sun than the carefully machined/molded part that cracked in half after 2 years.

so yeah, saved about $200 on that one.

>>3008397
I wouldn't use PETG for outdoors. it is more UV-Resistant than ABS, but not that resistant anyways.
Try printing in ASA or coat with an UV-protective spray.
Also probably heat cycles.
If you leave your bike outside might have expanded and contracted the part and if your blinker housing was put on there TIGHT it probably cracked the part under the pressure.

I'm not an engineer and these are my guesses at first look.

>>3008392
I printed parts for an escape room that they would have had to import at the beginning of the Ukrainian-Russian war from Russia which would would have cost them a couple thousand yuros.

>>3008397
you need to design it so i fits better.
or add some flex to it to absorb the weight changes more?

>>3008399
Thought PETG would have been solid enough for outdoor use, it's under a cover all the time I don't use it so doesn't get massive amounts of UV exposure daily. Dont have a way to print with ABS.
The blinker isn't on that tight now, just snug enough
>>3008400
Dont know how else to design it better, I made a profile of the frame of the bike and made it more or less match the shape so no clue what else to do with it.
How do you add in flex?

>>3008397
If you print it in white (or paint it white for better UV resistance), it will reflect solar radiation and not heat up. A black piece of PETG in the summer sun for an hour or two will easily get up to the 60-70C needed to soften and deform.
Though I'm unsure if that alone is why the part cracked, I don't think thermal cycling would explain that. If it's just not strong enough, PETG-CF might resist the forces and heat better, or maybe PCTG as it's more ductile.

>>3008408
You can print a piece of TPU first, then pause the print and insert the TPU before resuming and locking it in place. Or you could try using sheet silicone or inner-tube rubber or some other source of something flexible.

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I had the idea to use 3D printed files as moulds for plaster or clay slip. Like I wanted to make a Pot Of Greed mug out of clay or just a model out of plaster and then paint it but wasn't too sure how to go about it.

>>3008414
If you want the results to actually be nice, you're fucked and welcome to the world of two molds. That said, no need to wait for an answer is this thread, plenty of people have done it before.

>>3008414
do you have a 3d printer?

>>3008399
>>3008408
ABS is not UV resistant at all, you might as well use untreated PLA which in my experience lasts about 3 years in direct sun and daily handling. PETG on the other hand is a better choice than either for outdoors since it is actually UV resistant, as is ASA so covering either of those in UV blocking clearcoat is asshat retarded.

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>>3008389
I'm basically happy with this revision, at least after working a bit in and out a few times to get rid of any tiny high spots. Though it can be a bit of a pain to get the bit properly located into the hex, so maybe there's a bit of minor work to be done. I added a reinforcing M4 screw in the inside of the bearing, to reinforce that against layer-adhesion shear fractures. I added a 3D printed springy detent to both the cross-hole and the main bit holder. In addition to some magnets for the main bit holder. In each case I used a pair of 9mm long and 1mm thick printed flexures, and they bend up to 1.5mm away from their resting position. We'll see how it holds up long-term, but since they didn't snap immediately (and there isn't force along layer lines) I expect it won't be the failure point. And because of how light it is (plus the M4 screw) I can't see it breaking from dropping on the ground, even dropping on concrete from 2-3m up. If anything, excessive downward + sideways pressure could crack the bit holding area, especially now that it's got some internal voids. Instant screwdriver bit + plastic shards through the finger.

If it ever does break, I could reprint it in something stronger than PLA.

>>3008414
A clay slip cast has to be porous, no? If anything I can see it being feasible to cast a plaster slipcasting mould into a PLA plug. You could either use lost PLA method to melt out the PLA from the inside of the mould, or you could cast multiple plaster segments that fit together, allowing you to reuse the PLA plugs. If you don't mind the seam lines in the resultant part, this seems entirely doable. That said, those nostrils and the handle base are so convex that I doubt you'd get the PLA out of the plaster without it cracking. Maybe you can add extra plaster manually with a mostly complete PLA plug, or potentially design a complex multi-multi-part PLA plug that you can disassemble by undoing some screws while it's got the plaster inside it.

>>3008408
>made it more or less match the shape
theres the problem, did you leave any room for slop? up the entire thing by 1% and give it another go.

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>>3008410
I guess I'll experiment with engineer grade/TPU filament another time, only have PETG on hand.
So should I put the inner tube rubber where the surfaces have contact points?
>>3008424
I see, yeah wouldn't have thought PETG would have degraded that quick after only being out in the sun for a couple of hours after a few months
>>3008435
I meant like it matches the profile and there is a bit of clearance so it's not sitting totally flush

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>>3008378
>What CAD software should I use?
Out of these, which are my best options on a Linux laptop from 2012?
>ThinkPad T430
>OS: Linux Mint
>CPU: Intel i5-3320M (4) @ 3.300GHz
>GPU: Intel 3rd Gen Core processor Graphics Controller
>Memory: 16GB DDR3

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>>3008444
If you have no moneys: FreeCad, it's getting the Blender Treatment right now. Hadn't had it's 2.8 moment yet, but they're getting there.

IF you have $175 to $300 that are burning a hole into your pocket: Plasticity (https://www.plasticity.xyz/buy)

t. Freetard, pic rel.

>>3008378
I'm the guy who impulse bought the Ender 5 Plus.
I've figured out that I want a multi-tool/head printer and am thinking about a StealthChanger setup.
My question: What hotend? Current contenders are Smart Orbiter 3.5v vs Galileo V2.
I've been out of the game since mid 2024 so I don't know what has happened in the scene since.

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>>3008446
>FreeCad
Thanks, I'll look at that one first.
>it's getting the Blender Treatment right now. Hadn't had it's 2.8 moment yet, but they're getting there.
I don't know what that means.
>IF you have $175 to $300 that are burning a hole into your pocket
Sadly I do not, thus the reliance on an ewaste machine.

What command do you use to remove the username and machine name from your neofetch output?

>>3008449
>I don't know what that means.
Take a look at Blender 2.7 and 2.8. World's difference. The Blender Treatment is when Free Software's UX goes from janky to streamlined.
>Sadly I do not, thus the reliance on an ewaste machine.
I assumed so. If you can, update to a T480/T580, they cost as much as a T430 and are worlds faster.
>What command do you use to remove the username and machine name from your neofetch output?
None, I edit the screenshots in gimp lel.

But this is slowly derailing the thread, if you have any further Linux questions, join us over at >>>/g/fglt

>>3008446
>I've figured out that I want a multi-tool/head printer
bahahaha
You've signed yourself up for a world of hurt. I'd make a single-tool machine first to get the hang of things before headshotting yourself with scope creep. The StealthChanger and TapChanger both look kinda flawed, the locking action is both pretty precise and reliant on the compliance of the 3D printed plastic itself, compared to something like the XL's solid locking method. If you have to go for a custom toolchanger, I'd look for one that's taken inspiration from the XL. Though some of the CNC aluminium stealthchanger kits look ok, like FYSETC's.

Instead I'd consider slapping on an INDX, or one of the OEM toolchanger systems as spare parts. What do XL or U1 or Creator 5 tools sell for, and what would it take to slap them on your carriage? Or could you just buy their locking mechanisms and put custom tools on those?

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https://shop.silocitylabs.com/products/ebox-lite-smart-pcb-esp32-conversion
>$68
pfft, I could make one myself for like $10

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How is the Sunlu S2 filament dryer? Is there anything around the same price that's better?
I saw people complaining about there being no exhaust vent or something, but it looks like you can print out solutions to that.

>>3008455
Same cheap screen as the Space Pi and a bunch of other driers, their specs should all be about the same. Maybe the Sovol one is cheaper? Local ones may be cheaper. Personally I’m waiting for the new Elegoo drier, it looks to have an automatic vent for a decent price.

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>>3008461
it does, and it's nice.
It's been out for a few weeks now.

>>3008444
I'll throw out onshape, it's browser based so your shit tier laptop should be able to hang. Def do not try Freehand360 or Blender they both were click wait on my old i5 2500K with 16G. not unusable but painful for sure.

>>3008446
How is Plasticity overall compared to something like Solidworks, and is that pricing a lifetime license? I don't mind paying $300 for that

>>3008472
We sell Elegoo products where I work and I get a sick discount. So I’m waiting for one of them to arrive in our warehouse. Elegoo website says it’s still in preorder.

>>3008451
I wonder if anyone has modified the bambu AMS for use outside their ecosystem. The 4 first feeder towers are simple creatures and there are a few boards involved and a fifth feeder/sensor in the bottom.

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imagine a 3 tool multi-toolhead printer with two of these plus a standard single nozzle for support interface

>>3008500
It’s probably pretty simple, I doubt they’re using encrypted comms between the AMS and printer. Security by obscurity at the most, nothing a few hours of packet sniffing couldn’t figure out. Maybe you’d need an adapter board to convert the comms to USB or CAN or UART that your mainboard can speak, but it’s probably in a sensible protocol already.

That said, OpenAMS opted to replace the entire mainboard within the AMS, so maybe it is unreasonably difficult to get it to speak a language that Klipper can understand.

>>3008503
An IDEX with one or two of those would be good enough for 90% of toolchanger requirements.

I'm looking forward to the K3 but only if they release a plus version. Also they need to close the top of it somehow, how do other multihead systems handle the open tops?

>>3008526
Tall lids. K3 with heated chamber would be a pretty easy buy, or it would be if I could trust Creality to not put out garbage. I’d rather mod a U1, or U1 max whenever they decide to make one of those.

>>3008503
imagine what? printing severely degraded filament onto a prime tower?

>>3008545
I've enjoyed my K2 once I figured out my issues were with my filament. Although that bed is a pain in the ass

>>3008552
Early K2 Plus models were touch and go. Seems like their business model was to sell something with more features than a Bambu for the same price. Compared to Elegoo who made something with similar features for as cheap as possible. Also IIRC they confirmed root access will not be available for the K3?

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>>3008387
>acquired it

>>3008461
>>3008472
The Sunlu S2 is about £30-£40, the Space Pi is £49, and the Elegoo one is £62.
I think I might wait a bit and see if the Space Pi or Elegoo one come down in price as I don't think I need a dryer just yet.

>>3008576
There's no point in saving yourself 12e if it means you lose the automatic vents, spool rotation and 85C heating.
Provided the unit doesn't fail that can make quite a bit of difference.

>>3008473
Thanks, I'll check that out at some point. FreeCAD seems to be working well enough for now and I like that it's local but it's good to have options.

>>3008568
I had more issues with their CFSs as i got 2 of them and both and i had to trim a quarter inch of the tension spring on the bottom cause it kept gouging my filament. Also the sensor that detects when a slot runs out of filament has an issue where there's this little metal arrow that gets pushed when filament is fed and it breaks a laser to signify there's filament, and when the filament isn't there, it retracts to signal there's no filament. Well filament dust can build up there and eventually jam the arrow in place so it won't retract even if there's no filament, making the printer think there's a filament jam.

Someone made a local tinkercad clone:
https://sketchforge3d.com/

Just ordered an Ender-3 v3 se for my first printer, wish me luck

Man this eSun eBox Lite only gets up to like 45C. My PETG says to dry it at 65C.

>>3008701
Neat, but at that point why not use SolveSpace or OpenSCAD or whatever?

>>3008702
Sorry for your loss. They’re ok machines I guess, but I’d much sooner go for a Neptune 4, or an A1 (mini) if you don’t care about the botnet.

>>3008704
Needed something cheap but could build stuff like walls for model displays, no matter what I googled people had bad things to say about all of them, at least it was cheap.

>>3008585
>spool rotation
Doesn't that get in the way of printing?

>>3008711
It's for drying, rotating the spool keeps the heat even. Maybe when you're printing, a smart drier could roll the spool up as the filament retracts?

>>3008711
you just turn the spool rotation off when you're printing.

>>3008704
I bought an air fryer with a dehydrate function for the sole purpose of drying my filaments. i've found that 140F for 6 hours works just fine and it also is great for completely drying out desiccant too.

>>3008727
Well I got the thing for free. I also already own a W1099 controller that I’ll try and bodge in there. Bodging the heating element permanently on it gets a bit warmer, 53C at the top of the enclosure. With some extra insulation hopefully that 48W of heating should be enough. Otherwise maybe I can cram a boost converter board in there.

>>3008451
>You've signed yourself up for a world of hurt
Great, so it will distract me from my shitass life.
>I'd make a single-tool machine first to get the hang of things before headshotting yourself with scope creep
I'm going to build an Ender 3 Pro to either a Belted-Z or to another CoreXY machine, I just wanted to plan the Ender 5 as well.
>I'd look for one that's taken inspiration from the XL.
So I should design something from the ground up?
>Though some of the CNC aluminium stealthchanger kits look ok, like FYSETC's.
I'll take a look
>Instead I'd consider slapping on an INDX
I've seen INDX but I wasn't sure about the price.
>what would it take to slap them on your carriage?
I don't know yet, the hotend and carraige is almost stock.
>Or could you just buy their locking mechanisms and put custom tools on those?
I guess? I was considering putting a cnc-head and a cutter on two toolheads so that I don't have to buy a CNC and a Plotter for a while.

>>3008479
Never used Solidworks.
Plasticity is the design principle of Fusion360 with the flow of Blender. It's just great.
>and is that pricing a lifetime license?
It is a lifetime license and if you're not on Linux they also throw in a X-NURBS license for free on the $300 version as well.

>>3008756
>they also throw in a X-NURBS license for free on the $300 version as well.
What's the benefit of that? Never heard of it, but I was looking at reviews of Plasticity and it does seem like it'll work for my needs, although i have no Blender experience.

>>3008759
>What's the benefit of that?
Better surfaces, you have to see it in action really:
https://www.xnurbs.com/
Also costs like $600 as a standalone plug-in for Solidworks.
>Never heard of it, but I was looking at reviews of Plasticity and it does seem like it'll work for my needs
There's a 30 day free trial as well
https://www.plasticity.xyz/
>although i have no Blender experience.
You don't need that, what I meant was that the software feels fresh and snappy unlike "industry standard" tools.

>>3008378

i know next to nothing.

months ago i heard that bambu was going to put ai spyware in their software. is that still happening?

Just flashed my 10 year old printer (duplicator 5) to Marlin. Super easy to copy the old flash and flash anew because it's AVR based. I'm going to add BLTouch for mesh leveling, the aluminum bed is pretty warped and I'm tired of manually adjusting the z offset especially for 100°C hotbed prints. Going to print nylon soon. I don't need a new printer yet, but the extruders are too weak so I'm limited to 40mm/s print travel.

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>>3008841
>Going to print nylon soon
enclosed or open? how big?

>>3008825
Some states in the US have mandated that, so yes, it is still happening.
Don't buy Bambu Lab, buy Prusa or DIY.

>>3008825
IIRC the 3d printer spyware law in California for amended to require that any implementation is based off recommended policy implementation documents that come out of a specific industry specialist. But that industry specialist explicitly stated that they are not in the business of providing such documents.

Not sure what the laws in other states are like.

>>3008841
Did you go for a custom Marlin build? Or a modern Marlin prebuilt for that printer? There’s a lot of new features that were added to Marlin since those machines came out, but AVR-based boards are somewhat limited in which features they can enable.

Any hardware mods planned? I jumped from my ender 3’s bowden drive to a direct-drive V6 setup, but it kept leaking so I went for a TZ V3.0 instead. It’s been great so far. I also made my custom mounting bracket able to take HeroMe 5015 ducts for maximised part cooling.

>>3008844
Or any other printer that you can root and doesn’t automatically update itself.

>>3008843
Open, small shifter bushing. Never really had issues with ABS with an open enclosure.

>>3008847
>Did you go for a custom Marlin build?
Yes, the pre built configuration had some mismatched pins. Also I wanted to make some changes to parking, heating, runtime reporting, etc. Reminds me of playing with big boy CNCs

Freecad retards do not know what they are missing

>>3008857
could you clarify? do you mean:
>people too retarded to figure out how to use freecad
>people too retarded to figure out how to obtain actual industry cad and use freecad instead

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>>3008857
>>3008869
I read it as "people stupid enough to use freecad are missing out on much better options which I won't deign to list at this time but should be obvious to the unretarded observer."

>>3008883
You're probably right, but it's a simplistic and condescending argument.
I think there's a good case for avoiding vendor lock-in, and also for choosing a platform that's easier to write plugins for.

>>3008884
>>3008883
every commercial cad software is better than freecad
>>3008869
freecad users don't realize they could be using much better software
I can't imagine any other reason you would use it

>>3008888
but some people value software freedom more than competence, or are in an environment/culture where piracy has a higher legal/social cost than using free software

and by commercial cad software, do you include brl-cad?

My first spool of filament arrives next week. I plan on printing a few no-hardware drawer pulls and a pencil extender. What was your first print?

>>3008895
i think my first print was a SD card sorter.

over the course of ~7 hours of on-and-off printing, this carbon fibre pla (trust the plan) went from perfectly dry to substantially stringing
definitely needs drying

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>>3008908
The feedback loop is working!

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Im trying an unusually hot print, before i assign this crappy tri colour filament to the bin.
It looks pretty but the layer adhesion is terrible.

>>3008914
Silk filaments are always shit for layer adhesion, they mix in TPU to make it glossier and the TPU really doesn't bond well with PLA. They should just make tri-colour and rainbow PETGs instead, it's probably glossy enough without TPU added, and if you do add TPU it should bond just fine.

>>3008916
Interesting, thanks. I have never bought silk filaments before so I didn't realise.

I bought a cheap roll of translucent red as my first PETG and was pleasantly surprised how well it printed.

>>3008918
Most aesthetic additives reduce material properties, and also increase moisture absorption. Silks are the worst, but matte filaments are definitely a bit weaker too. There are matte PETGs now, and they don't seem quite as bad, only perhaps 10% worse than conventional PETG, as tested in one of MyTechFun's latest experiments. Some people use carbon fibres for an aesthetic matte look, but my hand is a bit irritated after handling one of those today, so I wouldn't quite recommend that myself.

I've got some old translucent red PETG and it's absolute hell to print. It's an esun roll, don't think they make that stuff anymore. Though I'll see once I've got a better drier up and running if it can be salvaged.

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>>3008919
I have an unopened roll of eryone carbon PETG, hopefully its a bit safer as its made with pellets of carbon apparently.
My translucence red is made by pinuotu, its held my belted z ender 3 together for years, granted its not the most translucent of translucents.

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Well, its a bit stripy, maybe I shouldn't have printed the lid at the same time. It does seem a little better with a higher print temperature.

Has anyone experimented with ways to recycle prints via shredding? It blows my mind how expensive material shredders are, even small ones. Never mind the idea of respooling the shredded plastics into a filament, although I've seen a few DIY kits for melting and respooling filament.

>>3008928
I'd start with a steel office paper shredder and see where that got me.

The only thing I've done is acquired an iron baking mold and planned to play with molding the raw bits and AMS poop but I've never gotten around to it. I considered using it as packing material, esp the poop spirals, but it's heavy as fuck for the size so it's just too dense to ship.

I don't actually care about waste and largely feel like anyone recycling prints is aura farming like a vegan announcing they brush with Tom's of Maine.

>>3008928
The idea of shredding waste into new filament doesn’t really work, at least with PLA, because each time it remelts it becomes less viscous and more prone to leaking out your nozzle. You have to mix it with a lot of fresh PLA pellets. If you’re already making your own PLA filament from pellets then it’s probably worth getting a grinder, but only print farms will be operating at enough scale for that.
Maybe pellet extruders have less of a problem with remelting, they’d also not require the labour for handling the spools, which seems like it would be significant unless you’re spooling 10kg rolls.

I’ve thought of remelting waste to make blocks of solid plastic, they make good knife scales, I guess?

>>3008951
Packing isn’t a stupid idea, maybe you can melt the waste into something like a cotton candy machine. If I recall, NightHawkInLight needed to spin PLA fibres for a sky cooling fabric, which was difficult because PLA doesn’t like forming thin strings. I bet PETG would be easier.

With a pressure pot you could probably also create a plastic foam.

>>3008969
I use PETG exclusively, i did wonder how well it'd be on a second go-through if it was reshaped into filament

>>3008972
Have you seen how some people print out filament in a spiral on the bed in order to print with it? Usually that’s for the purpose of using an AMS to get multi colour coextruded filament, but you could just do this like 5 times recursively to see if it prints any differently.

I had finally gotten fed up with trying to level the bed on my K2, realizing that the tacoing was never going to get better, so I went with the only options i could think of and literally sanded down straight down the middle of the bed, especially at the edges. Turns out that actually was the best way to offset the bow in the middle without getting a new bed. I used some kaplan tape on the sides of the bed sheet to finish leveling it out, but i was finally able to get a deviation of around 0.3 max

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>>3008926
Well, the lid started to separate between the layers, so printed a plain PLA replacement.
Then the seam the lid latches against broke off the remaining tri colour part, so now its all standard PLA as god intended.

>>3008911
I’m trying to figure out a way for a vent to open on top of the drier from air pressure alone. But the fans I’ve tested (4020, 5015, 6026) have so little static pressure that my ghetto manometer couldn’t measure even 1mm of water difference, and the enclosure leaks air too quickly for even the largest of my DC membrane pumps. I’ll do more testing tomorrow with some printed jigs to measure the suction and blowing power. I guess whatever I do, the valve will have to open easier than the lid of the filament drier.

Alternatively I can just suck humid air out of the top of the drier with a well-placed hose and blast it out the back, that will probably work.

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>>3008378
How the fuck do i get rid of overhangs like these?
So often i see i get >10s over shit like these who fuck up my prints. When i use "Make overhangs printable" it start to add a chunk of shit in the middle of the print for no reason at all

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>>3009047
Like, what the fuck is this? That's not in the file

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>>3008841
>>3008843
>>3008847
Here's a picture of the geeetech(?) duplicator 5 with the nylon in a heater box. This was back before all the cheapo high quality printers. There it is with the new BLTouch with new firmware. UBL works great on this, even with a mega mcu

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>>3008841
>>3009054
Here's the final nylon print. It worked great even without an enclosure. Bed adhesion wasn't great even with fresh glue, the raft helped. I would probably try POM/delrin next for this specific part. PA6/66 was quite expensive. This is a shifter bushing for a car btw.

>>3009033
>a way for a vent to open on top of the drier
a rubber flapper vent?

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>>3009047
>>3009050
which part? what file? you know the colors are coded right? Blue is travel which means the print head moves without extruding filament assuming that's what you're talking about. Point us to the .stl and explain the problem in >>3009050
again more clearly. Use your words anon, you can do it.

>>3009055
nice but I'm guessing it would be stronger if you printed it end on like an E. even though it's nylon you still have layer weakness.

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>>3009055
Here's the 6 month, 8000 mile test with ABS. It worked good as a prototype until I had some engineering filaments. This bushing is in the engine bay and mates 2 metal parts. Silicone grease disappeared. I could also just buy this bushing off the shelf, but there's no fun in that.

>>3009058
>nice but I'm guessing it would be stronger if you printed it end on like an E
I considered different orientations for the layer lines. There's a hole feature on the bottom that is important to have look like a circle so I didn't. I also didn't want to mess up the slots with supports or have them sag. It's not my model but I've thought about fixing it, probably by removing the outer slide.

>>3009050
Looks like tree supports, the model you are printing is not flat to the bed, and the roof of it is steeper then the overhang angle so its adding support trees there too.

>>3009056
Yes but because I don’t want it to leak when the vent van isn’t turned on, I need to make a flapper vent with some amount of preload. Getting a good enough seal, while making the pressure requirement low enough for the fan to actuate, seems exceedingly difficult. And because of how leaky the enclosure is, the actual pressure I see will be less than the absolute maximum static pressure from the fan. Larger surface area would help.

Maybe I’ll run a suction tube on the outside of the case. I need to run the wires to the temperature/humidity sensor at the top of it anyhow.

Also I had a dream where thick white smoke was periodically coming out of the air pump’s exhaust, when it was integrated into the filament dryer. Scary.

>>3009057
he wants a complex model with LOTS of overhangs to just print.
i don't think he knows what's wrong based on the surprise that the "make overhangs printable" reaction to the printer attempting to make the model printable by giving it a 45 degree angle from every overhang.

>>3009047
either modify the model so that you have a flat edge all around, or sink the part a few mm into the bed so make it flush, or look online at how you're MEANT to print the model you get from the internet.

What the cheapest 3D printer that works? I want to print brackets and stuff like that.

Here are some examples of thing's I want to print

https://www.printables.com/model/1409566-deshroud-rtx-4080-deshroud-120mm

https://www.printables.com/model/1135891-ps3-controller-battery-bracket/comments

https://www.printables.com/model/729633-pistol-wall-mount

>>3009099
Well, if you want to print something that sits against a 4080, you should be aware that PETG starts to heat deform above 70C. And whilst that's probably fine for something that's mounted on the far side of a radiator, it is cutting it pretty close, especially if you heatsoak the radiator.
So, realistically, you're going to want to print in ASA for safety, as that can go up to 100C, and if your entire card is heatsoaked to 100C, you've got bigger problems than your print warping.

But, if you want to print ASA, you need an enclosed printer. And those are more expensive than just an open bed slinger.

So, look at the Bambu P1S, Centuri Carbon 2 or maybe like a QIDI Q2.

I've used a P1S myself. They're nice, but a bit outdated now. The Carbon 2 looks very similar but a bit cheaper and has a bit more modern QoL changes.

>>3009060
a squshed circle can always be fixed with the correct drill bit.

>>3009099
elegoo centauri carbon 2.

>>3009099
That GPU bracket is flat enough you could probably print it out of ABS just fine without an enclosure, given some trial and error. Hilbert curve bottom+solid infill, draught shield skirt, cold and slow, maybe a raft and/or some bed spray. Though an enclosed printer like a CC/CC2/Kobra S1/P2S would be preferred.

Is there no 3d printing general for anime figures because 3d is pd?

>>3009119
It's on /toy/.
>>>/toy/11889023

>>3009103
subtractive machining on MY additive machining?
not bloody likely

>>3008928
Stefan, you've been trying this for years now and even with those expensive machines you keep getting sent, the only decent quality thing you've made out of it was youtube videos. Give it a rest.

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Designing an outer shell for my pitiful 40W filament drier. To line with 5mm adhesive insulation foam.

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>>3008928
You can recycle the filament into money.

>>3009143
listed and sold are very different things

>>3009138
5mm adhesive foam is what I line my printed glasses cases with.

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>>3009099
used printer on craigslist and a cardboard box for the "enclosure" and you're golden.

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Aw yeah, getting somewhere. Once it gets up to temperature, and when the humidity isn’t yet at target, the pump kicks on. Now I just need to drill the holes on the lid (without it cracking) to mount the sensor and air uptake. Also building an insulated outer shell will help: >>3009138

It’s probably a good idea for me to go back inside and ensure nothing is directly touching the heating element. Not all the wires are silicone insulated.

Is there a good revo 6 clone out there yet?

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>>3008378
What's the reasonably best material type to print durable stuff?
I'm talking about parts that go into building other printers, boxes for electronics that have to withstand weather, in and on cars, or just cosplay gear that can take a little beating without being outright protecting or riot gear. Just engineering stuff that is not aerospace and doesn't need PEEK, PEKK, PEI/Ultem or other insane filaments.

ASA-CF? PA6-CF? PCTG?

Printed some PLA-like tpu (it sucks don't bother) left over from my old printer and it left residue. A little on the bed but mostly the flow calibration lines. I printed a full sheet pla pull surface but idk whether to pull it cold or heat the bed and then pull it. Thoughts?

>>3009220
Plain old ASA unless you're making k toys

>>3009220
>What's the reasonably best material type to print durable stuff?
depends on what you're printing, printer, and cost.
Pet-CF is my goto for something that's stupid strong and cheap for a proper engineering filament (sub $60/kg), just make sure your designs don't use supports because they will be almost unremovable. Going down from there is qidi's abs-gf 25% core, it prints like pla, supports are an issue as with any abs.

>>3009222
Do cosplay swords and fantasy / sci-fi prop ks count as those?

>>3009225
>depends on what you're printing
I mean, kinda what I said: Parts for printers, electronics enclosures, non-critical car parts, cosplay gear.
Basically engineering filaments.
>printer
That's the thing, I'm planning two printers which is why I asked what materials I should aim for.
>and cost.
Reasonably. I wouldn't mind paying up to 100€/kg once in a blue moon if the task needs it, but I'd rather keep it affordable.
>Pet-CF is my goto for something that's stupid strong and cheap for a proper engineering filament (sub $60/kg)
Sounds good, I've been looking at stuff like this: https://www.3djake.com/fiberlogy/petgcf-black
>just make sure your designs don't use supports because they will be almost unremovable
Even with multi-material prints?
>Going down from there is qidi's abs-gf 25% core, it prints like pla, supports are an issue as with any abs.
I'll take a look

>>3009226
petg!=pet.
if you're going to be dealing with the abrasiveness, slow speeds, and hygroscopic material might as well go full pet.
Don't forget a high temperature dryer and filament storage.

>>3009228
>petg!=pet.
I know, I saw that specific filament before I made my first post.
>if you're going to be dealing with the abrasiveness, slow speeds, and hygroscopic material might as well go full pet.
Does it take paint well?
>Don't forget a high temperature dryer and filament storage.
I'm already looking for 80°C dryers and I'm planning a desiccated storage (Ikea storage bin with desiccant and a gasket on the lid, but I don't know if that'll be enough).

>>3009231
>Does it take paint well?
no.
Out of all the things you posted, cosplay things is the weird outlier.
That might benefit from a second printer better suited for pla with multiple heads. Something like the u1.
Some printers suited for high temperature materials tend to not be well suited for pla (read the qidi subreddit where it became such a problem that the manufacturer now adds an air conditioner for the ptfe tube).

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>>3009232
>Out of all the things you posted, cosplay things is the weird outlier.
Yeah it is, isn't it lmao. But the bros and friends are waiting for me to get off of my ass.
>That might benefit from a second printer better suited for pla with multiple heads. Something like the u1.
I mean, I have two printers that are sitting here and waiting to be modified (am this retard >>3008446 >>3008756, though I since have dropped the CNC idea because the toolhead wouldn't be rigid enough).
>Some printers suited for high temperature materials tend to not be well suited for pla
I'm still in the idea phase, but I think I want the Ender 3 to become a small machine for engineering materials and build the Ender 5 for anything else and multicolor prints with more than two colors + extra tools.
>read the qidi subreddit where it became such a problem that the manufacturer now adds an air conditioner for the ptfe tube
Damn, qidi are still a qidshow, aren't they? I still remember browsing parts and falling out of my chair upon seeing this gem (pic rel)

>>3009234
They've been great since the third generation of printers, and the latest ones are even better. Just not printers that take well to material that could soften in the guide tube.

>>3009235
I see.

>>3009220
ASA, but if you want more impact resistance you might want to check other filaments. Carbon fibres generally make filaments less impact resistant, but PA-CF filaments are still very good for that, same for TPU-CFs. ABS-PC blends and PC itself are also good, but unreinforced PA and PC probably need a heated chamber to print.

I’d take a look at MyTechFun’s spreadsheet.

>>3009221
Cold.

>>3009235
Isn’t that the point behind Qidi’s pre-cooler?

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>>3009239
>Isn’t that the point behind Qidi’s pre-cooler?
And it is such a ridiculous solution it's the part I'd expect to break or otherwise be problematic, when the simple solution is just...don't fed it that material.
Even worse when people are found to have mixed various materials of wildly different temperatures in the same hotend. It can be done, but going from, say, pps-cf to tpu has to be done procedurally with intermediate material or a cleaning filament.

>>3009240
>people are found to have mixed various materials of wildly different temperatures in the same hotend
That’s why I’m interested to see what Qidi will do to enter the toolchanger space. Then, if you wanted to print PET-CF and TPU at the same time, that precooler would be vital.

>>3009226
Why two and not eight printers? Are you going to design and learn with $60/spool filament?

k is boom boom sticks and similar, I think there's a board for cosplay cgl but I don't see how you'd need anything but pla there.

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What's 'The purple site?' I assume it's not 3dcults. I'd ask /tg, but this is more of a general 3d print question.

>>3009239
Thanks
>>3009250
>Why two and not eight printers
Because I already had an Ender 3 Pro and impulse bought an Ender 5 Plus when I saw one for under 300€ for the first time.
>Are you going to design and learn with $60/spool filament?
I've been 3d printing from 2022 to 2024, I know how to work CAD and design stuff. I've just never used anything more fancy than PETG because I was literally on said Ender 3 Pro.
>k is boom boom sticks and similar
Alright
>I don't see how you'd need anything but pla there
Because I don't want the props I build to just crumble like PLA does. Maybe I'm a bit biased because I used to print for an escape room where the conditions were fucking insane, but I feel like PLA prints don't last very long.
>>3009255
>I assume it's not 3dcults
I've got good news and bad news.
https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/game/intercessores-cleaned-with-modular-shoulders
>>3009240
Based SKUB enjoyer.

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I just want to add a hole by subtracting a cylinder from this threaded cylinder in FreeCAD but the second I add in the helix the entire thing shits the bed. From what I see googling around, FreeCAD fucking hates helices.
this feels like it should be simple. What do I have to do/who do I have to pray to to get this to work

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>>3009278
something like this?
I created a simple cylinder, subtracted another cylinder. No helix for the outside thread. Instead I created another body. Drilled a hole in it. Added inside threads and then I used this body as a "tool" to subtract it from the first body via boolean operation.

>>3009289
Exactly like that. Thanks, I'm still fumbling my way through learning this stuff

Hi, is this the CAD general too? Im getting into it and I would like to know a good course to start. I would like to start making some small parts for repair stuff like spares from old devices that need it. When I feel comfortable with the CAD stuff I will get me a printer.Thanks in advance

Just got an update that Creality is shipping their M1 and R1 plastic recycler and extruder. My hopes are low considering I have had creality products in the past, but I ordered one anyways. Has anyone else here preordered the extruder?

>>3009256
>I feel like PLA prints don't last very long.
I'm the opposite, I have functional PLA prints all over to the point that I don't see the need to use engineering filaments and thus can't really say they're not better, just that PLA is good enough for 98% of my stuff and PETG and ASA are occasionally use but still more than enough.

>>3008387
Designspark mechanical imports .stl and exports to e.g. step or iges . Works pretty good but imo needs a paid version (1 month for a few bucks) or use the 7 days trial.

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>>3008378

>>3009294
I like open source, so freeCAD is my CAD of choice. And most of the shit that I know I did learn from this guy:
>https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t_yh_S31R9g&list=PLWuyJLVUNtc3UYXXfSglVpfWdX31F-e5S&index=2
if you want to learn about some more professional CAD, I can't help you. The only other CAD I've ever laid my hands on was CATIA at work. A coworker made me draw a square and extract a cube from it. This shit is just cursed.

>>3009351
btw if you run into problems with older tutorials on a new version of freeCAD this might help. They added a feature that fucks up older tutorials.
>https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fstXygscASo

Extruder started skipping/stuttering, fucked up a print and now it just outright won't do anything right, is there any easy fix to this, I'm not confident in having to take it apart. Neptune 3 Pro btw

>>3009367
yeah, super easy fix.
Pull it apart and figure out what it started skipping and stuttering.
probably either the extruder arm is cracked, or if you're lucky some hair or dirt got caught in the extruder gear.

you're going to have to learn how to fix the machine eventually anon, that's why /3dpg/ printing is on /diy/

>>3009370
Yeah you're not wrong, if it were just any other day I wouldn't mind, but I'm working on a tight schedule and would really hate to fuck up my extruder at a critical time

>>3009372
if you're unable to perform basic maintenance on a machine you're apparently using for business, you deserve to suffer the consequences of being unable to maintain the machine.

take the 5 fucking minutes to pull off the cover and LOOK at the extrusion arm.
is it broken? is it covered in crap? fucking fix it.

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>>3009248
huh. I too have been waiting for them to put out a toolchanger to move on from my xmax3, but really hadn't considered the precooler actually being useful in that application.

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>https://factorio.com/blog/post/fff-447

>>3009424
Pointless hostility

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>>3009488

>>3009489
Yeah I know, just feels performative when it's not warranted

>>3009497
>unwarranted
hes complaining about wanting an easy fix, but is unwilling to actually troubleshoot the printer by opening the thing and looking at whats causing the problem.

the machine is apparantly non-functional, yet at this 'critical time' hes still unwilling to literally just look at the broken portion of the printer, and instead just headed online to ask if anyone can fix his machine with their psychic powers with no further information than "extruder bad, neptune 3 pro".

my first response was polite, and i gave him all the info he needed, literally just remove the shroud and look for damage on the extruder, and his response was "don't want to" so yeah he gets hostility in subsequent posts.

>>3009502
I didn't say anything about "unwilling" I said my time crunch would make any screw ups a real problem, either way I've fixed it, thank you or fuck you, idk which but you can relax all the same

>>3009460
Also good for keeping your extruder board and motor cool if you’re running a really hot chamber. Though your part cooling fans are also going to roast unless you use CPAP, which I don’t think any consumer printers have used yet.

But have they announced or teased or leaked any kind of tool/nozzle changer yet? I haven’t seen anything.

>>3009508
they haven't.
They probably won't for a while considering there's been like three revisions and at great expense of their attempt at an ams that can handle 25% fiber core and technical filaments.
I'd be happy with just a second nozzle like they used to have in the early days, for support interfaces.

How important is it to dry your filament in this day and age? Am I asking for disaster if I try printing something straight out of the box? Also what do you guys use to store your filament?

>>3009515
do you live in a swamp?

>>3009515
What filaments are you printing? Non-silk non-fibre reinforced PLA or ABS/ASA doesn’t need drying. Silks, fibre-filled, or other plastics like TPU and PETG and PA need drying. They’re usually fine out of the box, but sometimes you’ll need to dry them before printing.

>>3009515
I think that depends more on what you're printing and what nozzle size. If you really need precision and are concerned about build plate adherence, or it's just a really long print, dry your filament to get rid of that variable.

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I want a glass fiber + epoxy shower pan, which is something not available in my country.

My plan is to print a shower pan with PETG in several parts, fill the bottom with mortar, pour self leveling concrete where it's supposed to go (to obtain a flat starting surface), grind it a bit for extra flatness, place the tiles in position, the laminate it with glass fiber or maybe nothing at all, since PETG surface will already provide structure and the resin will be naturally waterproof. Then I sand and polish the epoxy and enjoy my perfect shower pan.

How stupid does this sound?

>>3009555
>How stupid does this sound?
do the shower like people do showers in your country, anon

>>3009562
his "people" dont use bathrooms, thats what the street is for.

>>3009555
don't DIY major house componants.
the second you get a leak in the bathroom your house is on a death countdown to rotting away to nothing if you don't fix that shit immediately.

don't /diy/ plumbing or mains power anon, its never worth it.

>>3009562
>do the shower like people do showers in your country, anon
They do it wrong, so water always pools away from the drain. The traditional method is just impossible to get right, and the people who build stuff usually suffer from alcoholic dementia.
There are bath tubs, kitchen sinks, pools, all laminated from fiber glass, but no shower pans.

>>3009564
>the second you get a leak in the bathroom your house is on a death countdown to rotting away to nothing if you don't fix that shit immediately.
My house is not made of wood

>>3009555
>using porous print material for shower pan
>printing in pieces
jesus cuck anon, just use fucking tiles

What's a good replacement for PETG that doesn't fatigue with time and sun exposure? I made a belt clip for holding my quiver thats only seen like 100 hours of sun exposure over the years and it's absolutely disintegrating.

>>3009598
I’d try ASA, or maybe PCTG or a tough TPU. Nylon should be fine with UV too, and very impact resistant, but it creeps badly.

>>3009592
>completely missing the part about laminating with fiberglass and epoxy
I know people are not getting smarter in the past years, but that's excessive

I have an old ender 3v2 with a glass bed and some minor upgrades but had to dissasemble it and let it sit in a box for a few years and people seem to be saying just upgrade. I will probably reuse the ender 3 for something.

Should I buy an ender k2? Completely out of the meta.

>>3009577
>My house is not made of wood
and my house has a cement foundation that was slowly eroded by one leaky bathroom faucet, whats your point?
only noticed when huge cracks appeared around the doorframes where the entire house has started to sink since all that water washed away the dirt under the foundation.

>>3009611
the fact you mentioned the PETG surface providing structure made him think you planned on using the PETG surface as structure.

>>3009615
Creality is dog brand that was obsoleted by other brands. The K2 is ok, but it’s not price competitive compared to an Elegoo or as reliable as a Bambu. If you want a heated chamber, I’d sooner pick a Qidi or an X2D. What filaments do you want to print, and how big do you want to print them? Do you want multi-colour, or even multi-material?

>>3009295
>1300 bucks for a filament recycler
I wonder if it can handle the exotic crazy expensive filaments like the stuff with tungsten.

which printer brand has the least amount of telemetry while not being garbage?

>>3009653
Depends what you mean by telemetry I suppose.
Like call-home stuff, or local data keeping?

A printer that collects telemetry in order to inform the conditions of printing and accommodate for them but never send that data anywhere is ideal.
A printer that collects nothing but just has a camera that sends the feed directly to Xi's masturbatorium? Not so much.

>>3009692
>call-home stuff
yeah that one.

Can I print some metal brackets for my greenhouse? Or can I find someone who can? The company isn't selling me replacements after a g*ngstalker stole them out of my storage unit while I was moving

I've been using the AD5M pro since April, it's my first printer, has been working pretty good so far, usually finishes before the estimate.

>>3009555
just get a lead shower pan
It's not going to poison you

I'm going to start a 3d printing adjacent youtube channel
any tips?

>>3009653
Prusa, or a Voron kit company like Troodon.
If you can’t afford the price tag, go for a printer that can be flashed with mainline Klipper, like a Snapmaker U1 or possibly a Sovol SV08.

>>3009700
Don’t go into it trying to make money from advertising.

What’s the planned niche? It’s a pretty saturated space.

>>3009649
it could maybe, but you are going to blast through your extrusion gear and the die. Im not really interested in it for the recycling aspects but rather running virgin material through it. Probably go through 3000kg of material a year so extruding my own (if the machine works) could increase my margins quite a bit.

>>3009711
>What’s the planned niche
building elaborate machines with no practical purpose

>>3009693
Then just buy a Bambu and don't connect it to the internet.

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Just had to tear down the head of my cc2 a bit because a piece of filament broke off and was blocking feeding.
Wasn't that big of a deal, but I had to disconnect the type c cable that's held down with two screws, so I could remove to four into one adapter that's held down with two screws, so that I could grab a probably half inch long piece of filament.
That's what I get for not running my old rolls through a dryer.
The worst annoyances are the just barely annoying ones.

>>3009778
>That's what I get for not running my old rolls through a dryer.
If it was brittle PLA, I'm pretty sure drying it doesn't fix that. Old PLA is just brittle. I still print with it often, but even printed it's probably not as strong as fresh PLA. Hydrolysis is a one way street.

>>3009781
My thought process was that if I had thought to run it through the dryer, I probably would have noticed that it was brittle while handling it, but also that drying it might have also helped a little at least.
There wasn't a ton of filament on the roll, so I likely would have just scrapped the roll if I had bothered to check it.

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>>3009694
you can buy metal brackets at the hardware store for around $8 or an at home metal printer for around $15,000

alternatively you could post a picture of the bracket and get an idea if it could be printed in plastic

>>3009598
weird PETG is supposed to be UV resistant. ASA is the stronger UV resistant non-engineering filament but I'm really surprised I've had PLA in active outdoor direct sun use for 3 years before it crumbled and my PETG car stuff shows no sign of degrading.

I just upgraded from my old neptune 3 pro to a bambu p2s but I didn't get the ams2 combo. Im not very interested in multicolored prints but I didn't know about using a different material for supports. How bad did I fuck up?

>>3009806
You can always buy the ams and add it on.

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>>3009716
507 mechanical movements.

>>3009806
AMSs are kinda shit for multi-material use. You have to purge a lot more between changes, for incompatible materials like PLA and PETG it just takes a tiny bit of cross contamination to ruin layer adhesion. PETG and TPU are probably fine, but normal TPU won’t run through an AMS anyhow.

Either wait for a multi-nozzle machine (X2D, U1, INDX) or settle for pausing prints to insert sections made from another material.

>>3009840
Well, im definitely not doing that for supports. 99% of my printing is for d&d or other war games so I enjoy painting. I was more just interested in less scarring. I am definitely not filling my house with any more chemicals or fumes from a resin printer then I already am so, that's out.
Oh well, I guess I will eat the extra hundred dollars from not getting one in the combo pack, if i really feel like i am missing something.

What's the meta for drying? Get a single spool dryer and keep them in airtight containers?

>>3009906
I made a bunch of these to store my spools in, there's a few different ones on printables if you search.

https://www.printables.com/model/1249376-the-ultimate-cereal-container-filament-drybox

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>>3009906
some desiccant also helps.
but to be honest, the bag that most filaments comes in works decently well. I'd sooner buy a good filament dryer than spend much on storage and desiccant.

>>3009627
>the fact you mentioned the PETG surface providing structure made him think you planned on using the PETG surface as structure.
He would only think that if he skipped the first sentence of the post

>>3009806
>support
Is for losers anyway. The main use for an AMS is to not swap spools on a new print.

>>3009916
retard take mms support is the FUCKING GOAT

>>3009906
ask yourself, do I live in a swamp? proceed accordingly

god damn it's like you chucklefucks never heard of humidity before.

t. my house is at 54% humidity rn and I have open spools on the shelf for years and they all print with zero fucking issue (related to humidity)

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my 25h print ran out of filament with 33m to go and amazon overnighted matching filament with oil stain soaked into half the box and the cardboard spool dented so bad it won't rewind and I just fucking returned another spool at UPS 10 minutes before getting this shit. finishing the print and then this shit is going back.

>>3009924
>25 hour print
why. do you retards not know of 0.6 and 0.8mm nozzles?

>>3009928
I have specific prints that are basically an entire build plate full of parts, and even with a 0.6 nozzle they take over a day. I print PC-PBT at 60mm/s.

What the fuck do people even use PLA for in this day and age besides prototyping?

>>3009932
prototyping, rapid iteration, things that have to loog good with minimal effort?
On my desk I've got a laptop stand made out of pla.

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>>3009615
>>3009635
>I have an old ender 3v2 with a glass bed and some minor upgrades but had to dissasemble it and let it sit in a box for a few years and people seem to be saying just upgrade. I will probably reuse the ender 3 for something.

I'm in a similar position - how far away is Ender 3 Pro from current stuff?

If I had, say, 600 € for a printer now (discount products included), how much better would life be for me as I occasionally print small plastic parts and enclosures for electronics?

>>3009932
it's the most precise filament, it's cheap, it prints fast and it doesn't have any particular niggles like tpu's seething hatred of supports. if you need a volumetric mockup, it's perfect. if you need small details, it's perfect. if you need a replacement part fast, throwing more pla at it might work in a pinch (but throwing more petg at it is the better choice for long term).

>>3009923
Do you print anything other than plain PLA or plain ABS/ASA?

>>3009931
What’s your reason for using PC-PBT? Is it the printability compared to raw PC? And you need the toughness? How is it for UV resistance?

>>3009936
Very far away. The Ender 3 Pro is barely better than an original Ender 3. Modern printers often have better motion systems than V rollers, 32 bit boards (especially with klipper), bed levelling, PEI surface, and direct drive extruders.

>>3009932
>Rapid
>PLA
huH?
I mean due to density, flow and cooling requirements ABS prints faster than PLA so long as your setup isnt trash. There's good reason when you look at printers like any of bambu's H2 series that the advertised highest speed is measured with ABS, it's the fastest common filament. If PLA printed faster they'd be jerking off with that number instead.
To answer your question though, rigidity when that's what matters most. For most people though because they have rather basic setups, with similarly basic needs.

>>3009653
Literally just get a bambu and set in LAN mode.
I have my router block mine just to be extra safe, works a treat. And if you use home assistant the integration there basically gives you a private version of the cloud functionality like external monitoring.

>>3009932
i have no idea,
>besides prototyping
petg is miles better, fantastic for post processing
>>3009598
if paint or black dye isnt an option, consider using a color with inherent uv resisting propertiers. White filament is generally died with rutil, the white shit present in sun screen

>>3009975
Rapid PLA blends are faster than normal ABS from what I recall, especially if you spit them out at like 240C+. But maybe ABS can be pushed a lot hotter without burning, so I wouldn’t be surprised if rapid ABS blends could be faster still. I run a 0.6mm nozzle and am borderline seeing leakage problems even on non-rapid filaments.

>>3009975
Also PLA is better for rapid prototyping because you don’t need to wait for long heat-ups, or care about fume evacuation, and you can easily use it with PETG supports. Less effort required to make it print without warping or looking like shit.

>>3009978
Do you mean for sanding? It doesn’t print quite as nicely as PLA, but if you’re going to be sanding anyhow it makes sense.

Been playing with TPU for the first time. Fresh out of the sealed bag and I cant get the stringing to stop. Is this stuff so finicky that I have to dry it fresh out of the bag to get it to print well?

>>3009992
Fresh out of the bag is hit or miss. You ideally want to have your TPU in one of those dry boxes. Dry it out and then print directly from the dry box or you will get pretty bad stringing. Just sitting out for like 8 hours can waterlog it.

>>3009992
Non-foil bags leak moisture too fast to really trust. I’d definitely recommend drying all TPU before printing. With forced hot air. TPU dries up pretty well, I don’t think it hydrolyses like PLA does.

>>3009978
PETG is great for cheap n cheerful structural parts, but it needs parts designed for printing, you can't just wing it with whatever .stl you got off the interwebs and hope overhangs and supports work out. It also doesn't take most adhesives and paints, and it feels cheap in hand and looks the part too. It can be sanded, drilled and cut, but if you wanna have post-processable parts, go for ABS. PETG is baby's first engineering filament.

>>3010002
I cant stand the abs smell

What's the best middle of the road printer for a beginner?

>>3010012
Snapmaker U1, if it’s within your budget. Not as expensive as a Bambu H2 series or a Prusa Core One, but more expensive than a Centauri Carbon or a Neptune 4. If you need to print ABS or whatever, you can upgrade it with a top cover and even a chamber heater.

All that said, the U1 specialises in multi-colour and multi-material, so if you never plan on doing that, there may be better options.

>>3008378
Are CNA Linear Rails still the go-to for mid-range quality?

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>>3010029
Forgot pic-not-rel

My dad just called my 3D printer a sissy faggot machine, what does that even mean

>>3010031
That you shouldn't have bought a Bambu Lab

>>3010012
Centauri Carbon is everything you might want from a single nozzle printer. If you need a heated chamber, it can take a heated chamber. It can't do multi-material, but that's not a middle of the road feature. Multi-colour has no valid use case.

>>3009981
>Do you mean for sanding
no i mean edge tooling. solid petg can be drilled, reamed, tapped, scraped to a glass like finish. kinda reminds me of POM

>>3010032
I don't even get why people hate Bambu.
Especially since it's almost exclusively internet hate. Every 3d printer I meet in real life is either Bambu or resin. It's not even like a "oh wow you get options with this other brand Bambu doesn't have!" it's "Oh wow the Flashforge AD5X's current firmware version overrides the slicer's purge volumes with its own and now you have a giant booger of petg and pla hanging off the hotend. Good luck cleaning that, bitch boy. Should've bought Bambu!"

Don't get me wrong, I want a Snapmaker as much as anyone else, but there's a useful application for Bambu where you can see something you like and just print it out like it's homework. Put a cool plate on the fucking thing and it'll never fail.

>>3010054
If you're looking at circles, it's usually heavily homogenised given there's the first guy with *the* machine that works, so people stick with the recommendation. I've seen a hospital workshop with prusas, a apothecary with a bambu, a student club full of Vorons and unrecognisable enders, etc. etc..
The internet is just oldfags, sadened they couldn't preserve their little tinker group. Then again, with 3d printing especially, there's so much knowledge vaulted and forgotten on discord, it doesn't even matter anymore.

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I have a BTT octopus pro and I want to make sure I know what I'm talking about before I try using 2 different power supplies at once. Is this the right idea?

Right now I'm running everything on a single variable benchtop power supply that goes up to 18 volts, but both my heat break fan and part cooling fan are supposed to run on 24 volts, so I'm thinking I probably have a wall adapter somewhere that spits out 24V that I can use or something to that effect until I decide how I'm going to go about powering this thing long term.

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>>3010065
On a related note: I happen to have a second identical variable PSU and I've thought about trying to put them in series, but that seems like it's asking for trouble if I don't completely understand what I'm doing. To that end, what part of this is going to create problems/do I not understand? (multimeter measurements are what I expect I would find if I measured across those points)

>>3010065
Parallel is safer. I run one Frankenstein printer off two ATX 12 supplies in series, but I had to add plastic washers to one to prevent its ground shorting out.

You have to consider, what happens when one supply turns on or off before the other? With a parallel system, that means your mainboard should be designed to be tolerant of the motor power being present without any main logic supply. I suspect it is, but it’s not a guarantee. I’d want to see explicit information from the manufacturer, or a schematic, to know for sure. If you can tie some sort of enable or power-good line from the two PSUs together, ensuring that they only ever work together and if one doesn’t output then neither does the other, you wouldn’t have to worry. Look into your power supplies for this reason.

With a series system, the same concern applies, but if one supply is offline or shut-down, the other supply must be able to force current through it, which it may not be capable of.

>>3010070
>With a parallel system, that means your mainboard should be designed to be tolerant of the motor power being present without any main logic supply. I suspect it is, but it’s not a guarantee. I’d want to see explicit information from the manufacturer, or a schematic, to know for sure

It should be because it is designed to use up to 3 different PSUs and I have had the motor power on without the board power for short periods of time but I try to avoid it just in case.

>With a series system, the same concern applies, but if one supply is offline or shut-down, the other supply must be able to force current through it, which it may not be capable of.

I hadn't considered that, that's a good thing to keep in mind.


What actually is the point of running different components at different voltages? Like I get if you have motors running at 50-60 volts and the rest of the system uses 12V, but how much more performance do you really get, especially if you are using drivers that go up to 36V? Is that really that much better than running them at 24V? I know you can draw less current but how much power do you really need for a printer? (Don't get me wrong, I like being able to do this kind of stuff for the fun of it, even if you don't really need that much flexability)

>>3010072
More speed and torque from a higher voltage. Might matter for a cutting edge printer, especially with a heavy hot end. As for why not run everything on that, idk, they’re running step-down converters on the board for the logic but they chose 24V maximum input for those?

>>3010073
Torque in an electric motor is determined by amps (current), not voltage. So Parallel for Torque (more capacity same volts) Series for Speed (increased volts)

>>3010065
on my voron 2.4 i have a 24v, 12v and a 5v supply running like yours using a relay to send the 24v to the heaters using the 12voutput on the h1 port.

check out the btt octopus setup for the 2.4 for setup tips is my best advice.

>>3010074
Steppers work differently
Low voltage means they loose steps more easily at high speeds

>>3010086
>Low voltage means they loose steps more easily at high speeds
I don’t see how it’s different at all. Motors have higher speeds at higher voltages because back-EMF is proportional to speed and acts in opposition to the driving voltage. Motors have higher torques at higher voltages because they can force more current through the motor’s ESR, as current and torque are directly proportional, along with ohm’s law.

There’s a minor difference in that stepper motors are basically always driven with current-limiting drivers, so you don’t see an increase in low-speed torque as that’s already fundamentally limited. But at speeds high enough where a lower driving voltage minus the back-EMF isn’t enough to reach the current setpoint, a higher voltage can allow that, hence increasing torque for those higher speed ranges.

So “Low voltage means they loose steps more easily at high speeds” is exactly because higher voltages allow for higher torques.

>printer struggles with tall models
>after a while it seems like the nozzle gets closer and closer to the model until it physically knocks it over
>brush it off as ender things, the z gantry must be a leaning tower of pisa so the error compounds
>get a corexy printer
>still the same exact problem
I am clearly doing something wrong.

>>3010095
they all do, you can either enable/design supports, or slow down.

>>3010095
tall skinny models have a lot of lateral deflection which can lead to (guessing here) lines not being squished enough (technical term) as the nozzle doesn't align properly or even deflects the print under pressure. print something tall and very stable (pyramid?) and see if the problem still exists

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I've been using an original ender 3 V1 for 9 years now. It still prints fine for me, but I want to try some fancier materials like ASA and PCTG which means I need a hotend and possibly extruder upgrade. Is it worth it for me to upgrade it or should I get a newer machine? I use it like twice a year and I'm familiar with what maintenance I need to do to keep it printing well.

>>3010153
I think it’s pretty easy and cheap to swap to an all-metal heat-break, while keeping everything else the same. I instead went straight for the V6 ecosystem, but it gave me leakage problems so I went for a TZ V3.0 and couldn’t be happier. They even make TZ 3.0 heat sinks that bolt right onto the ender 3 gantry, no custom brackets needed, and I think your existing cooling shroud will fit around it. Though I was running direct-drive by that point so went for a bracket to hold my upgraded pancake extruder stepper and BMG clone extruder (with hardened gears) alongside mounting points for a Hero Me dual 5015 fan duct. Dual Z and a PEI bed and CR-touch helped too. The latest build of Marlin, with fancier features enabled, makes it a pretty comfortable machine to use.

All that said, you probably should upgrade to an enclosed printer. Centauri Carbon as a minimum. ASA can be printed on an open frame, but it’s a trial of ensuring your models aren’t too tall and have enough bed area, and running the nozzle cold and with a tall skirt as a wind shield. An enclosed printer, especially one with an actively heated chamber, is going to be preferable for ASA, to say nothing of nylon and PC and PET-CF.

>>3010153
twice a year??? just print at your local library dude

>>3010184
I don't want them to see my dildos.

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How would you keep a 150mm hole round in the z axis? Would regular supports do a good job or can I model something? PETG
I'm designing a blast gate for fumes and I want to print it like this instead of splitting it in two parts on the bed.
I'm still early in the design, I'll probably add flanges around the holes so the pipes slot in better.

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>>3010253
if you really want it accurately done you'd split it like this and glue/screw/peg it together.

Otherwise just let the slicer generate some supports and expect to have to sand the support interface.

>>3010253
>How would you keep a 150mm hole round in the z axis?
>I'm designing a blast gate for fumes
i would make it a slight tear drop shape and seal it with silicon

>>3010253
>>3010266
Tear drop works, but a partial tear-drop with a horizontal bridge leaves a more circular hole. You could also do a series of test prints with smaller shapes to characterise the sagging of a given shape, in an attempt to design one that prints perfectly with no supports.

The best option I think is to first print an insert cuboid from PLA, then start printing the PETG piece horizontally. On the layer as it's about to start the bridging, you'd add a pause to the g-code, and insert that cuboid of PLA. Then resume, and the printer will print PETG atop that PLA. Then you should hopefully be able to push out the pre-printed support piece. Maybe you'd want to print the PLA piece in multiple parts and screwed together, so you can remove the screws and disassemble it while it's still in the PETG, if it would otherwise get stuck. I'd do some small-scale testing. Ironing might help.

>>3010253
tree supports are fine but ideally just do what you don't want to and split it. check the print times in each orientation for starters.

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>>3010253
if you're not going to do the simple thing and split it and lay it on the bed then split it in half on the purple. also don't add manufacturing details that are unnecessary like the huge chamfer corners. the waste gate should extend as far as possible to the frame. it's 3d printing you're not limited by normal manufacturing don't add manufacturing details that don't support the engineering or (as the bottom in this orientation) make the print worse.

>>3010266
>>3010269
a "slight" teardrop doesn't obviate supports and a teardrop that does is going to exceed the height of the printer. if anything I'd make the gate a square diamond shape and then add adapters to the pipe, printed separately.

or you could print it with increased perimeter count and file /scrape it to fit, then glue it in with silicone.

The one thing im constantly observing from people that do Projects with a 3D printer, is the classic saying "if all you got is a hammer, every problem looks like a nail"
for example, I will not waste hours tuning to get a dimension spot on, when i can remove 0.1mm with a scraper in 5 seconds

>>3010290
>going to exceed the height of the printer
That’s why I mentioned the flat-topped teardrop with bridging. A slight teardrop can still keep sagging out of the intended circular hole zone, though it will still sag and look like shit.

>split it in half on the purple
I’d never want such a print vertically anyhow, printing horizontally in two halves would be more accurate and stronger.
Much better still to insert a piece of PLA during a pause on a single horizontal print.

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>>3008378
>Pre-Heat and calibrate printer for 2 fucking hours
>Level bed, screws, belts, bed mesh, the fucking kitchen sink
>Start 3D Print
>It works like a charm
>Router decides to shit his pants
>Klippy shits his pants in panic or solidarity, no Idea which
>Reshart everything
>Pre-heat and heat soak for 30 minutes
>G28, calibrate bed mesh, G28 again for good measure
>Start print again
>Not attaching to printbed because the fucking nozzle is floating mid-air for some reason
>Open Mainsail
>Adjust Z-Offset
>MFW -0.925

WHAT THE FUCK IS HAPPENENING, WHY IS FOLLOWING A FUCK ASS BED MESH SUCH A PROBLEM, WHY IS LEVELING A BED SUCH A FUCKING PROBLEM, WHY IS Z-OFFSET SUCH A GOD DAMN PROBLEM, WHY CANT THIS SHIT JUST FUCKING WORK?! WHY IS THE NOZZLE GOING TO THE MOON ON ONE PRINT AND DIGGING DEEPER INTO THE MESH BED THAN THE FLYING DUTCHMAN'S SHIP INTO THE FUCKING REEFS IN THE NEXT ONE?!

AAAAAARGHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH

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man, making TPU bellows is a pain
any chance this would print well out of 95A?

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>>3010335

>>3010335
factory reset it
if that doesn't work, wipe the firmware and reinstall

>>3010338
There's no "factory" setting I could use, it's a somewhat modified Ender 3 Pro. I already did reset shit as far as I could, I even went as far as switching from Marlin to Klipper just to get that fucker to stop probing the mesh 11x11 times because it had kinda burned that into a corner of the flash I couldn't reach.

I honestly start to feel like the CL-Touch is the problem here. Faulty unit or something.

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>>3010336
Well it printed mostly fine, besides the moist filament stringing, but it’s way too rigid to bend in the way I want it. It’s 40mm tall and with 1.6mm part thickness. Maybe I can make it thin and small enough to print with a multi-colour system, flat with PLA spacers, but even then I suspect it will be too thick.

TPU has been nothing but headaches for me.
>dry TPU for 6 hours @ 55c
>try printing at 200-215c
>no matter what I temp its always flow issues
>loadup some throwaway PLA
>extracts perfectly, perfect test prints
>ok maybe it was a clog of some sort
>reload TPU
>extracts start fine at 220c
>keep extracting, flow slows down more and more
>up the temp to 250c just trying to get flow
>extracts continue to be thin
>attempt a test print
>initial purge barely puts out anything, first layer doesnt even finish before there are clearly more flow issues.
>by the time I stop the test the nozzle isnt even putting anything out

what the hell is happening, is it possible to over dry TPU? this shit is such a massive pain in the ass

>>3010350
Sounds like you just have an extruder that's shit for TPU, or maybe a sufficiently long filament path that the TPU is stretching as it's being pulled. Assuming you're not using a bowden drive in 2026. What printer? What if you run the filament directly into the print head without a bowden tube?

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>>3010335
>Wake up
>Klipper shat his pants again
>Print died 5 hours in
RELEASE ME FROM THIS SUFFERING

>>3010336
what is that part for? looks cool

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>g604 mouse is 6+ years old
>re-soldered the switches multiple times
>covered in gamer grease
>rubber finally starting to break down
>find 3d scan of the mouse
>design a new shell that hooks onto the thumb rest and clips over the mouse
>add a nice little finger shelf to reduce drag
>add some TPU inserts for grip/comfort
I'm pretty happy with the result. Its a little rough on the edges because I'm not great at sanding down support leftovers, but this mouse will last another 6 years if I can help it.

>>3010414
Cable management for the rear of my custom filament dry box housing. I don’t want the cables to get pinched when I open and close the lid, so I figured designing bellows could fix this. But turns out it’s difficult to get such small bellows to bend easily, so I just added a cutout on either side of the hinge so the cables can’t get pinched.

is there no opencascade programmatic cad software? like openscad, but with a reliable geometry engine behind it, that can do things like fillets

What is the best way to learn how to 3d model as an absolute beginner?

>>3010470
think about what kind of 3d you want to do like
>cad
>sculpting
Look at what programs do the kind you care about, then watch extreme basics tutorials until you see one you think looks interesting.

>>3010470
Had the same question, if you are here maybe you would like to model real objects for machinery so this freecad course is the one I'm following.
>>3009351
>>3009294
btw thanks for the help. Got banned and I just came back

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>>3008378
In the "For Architects" section, there's a new Sketchup-like called IngeTrazo. It's FOSS, and looks pretty good.

>>3010484
It does indeed, ill post a fixed op text here once the thread autosages in case I dont make the next thread. There are other edits too.

>open up fresh roll of PETG
>load into printer
>dribbles without end after extruder stops turning
>audible pops and visible bubbles
It’s Slic3d PETG. I have strong suspicions that this is rebranded Elegoo filament, but Elegoo no longer sell a basic PETG in plastic spools. So I guess it would make sense if this was surplus old stock that’s been repackaged and relabelled, and has slowly absorbed moisture through the plastic packaging.

>>3010525
>smiles in aluminized bags.

>>3010540
I’ve never seen cheap PETG or TPU in those, but they probably should be. If $1 chip (crisp) packets can be sealed in foil, I can’t see why $15 filament rolls can’t also be sealed in foil. PLA too I guess, PLA irreversibly hydrolyses. Silks even more so.

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>>3010525
Well it’s drying well, with some rags atop the drier to get it up to 60C. Just finished a 6 hour print while coming out of this drier.

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>>3010553
Finished part, a jacking point cover for a Passat R36. It’s a PETG test fit, it’s probably worth getting one painted properly to blend in with the rest of the vehicle, but PETG might not be the ideal material for that. The original was PP with ~15% EPDM rubber and 30% Talc, a rigid and impact resistant plastic. Maybe my PCTG CF-core would be a good fit for that, though I may instead just order a powder laser/binder printed part in PA(CF?) from LCSC instead. The fit is mostly good, but it’s a tad proud in one area, and another area is too tight to fit all the way into a locking section. The model is derived from someone’s 3D scan, and uploaded for free to Thingiverse. There’s more paid models on Cults, which may be better.

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>>3010554
Here’s it in place.

Next print is the cover/shell to insert the eBox drier into. 14 hour print overnight, I sure trust this drier a lot more than my last, the lack of rollers got filament jammed a couple of times, melting plastic against the metal heating elements of the dry box.

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>>3010555
Here's the cover/shell. It will be lined with 5mm adhesive foam and maybe aluminium foil tape too. I'm printing it in 4 parts, pegged together by tiny wires and glued. 14 hours is the longest section, the others take 13, 10, and 10 hours.

Hopefully once this shell is done, I can avoid having to throw towels on this thing to get it up to temp.
If it's sucessful, I may replace the fan and heating element with better ones, and add smarter controlls via an ESP32 instead of repurposing a termperature+humidity controller. The annoying thing about the controller is you adjust the on and off thresholds independently, so if you change from 50C to 60C you need to go up by 10C on both values. If instead it was a temperature and a hysteresis value, that would be better. Having the ability to compute the minimum possible internal relative humidity based off outdoor conditions would also be nice. So would having more than 40W of power, even with towels this thing takes like 40 minutes to get up to temp.

>>3010553
are you trying to start a rag fire?

>>3010556
>by tiny wires
funny way to spell filament

>>3010359
>klipper

>>3010568
It’s temperature controlled to 70C. And the rags aren’t soaked in anything particularly flammable. Though maybe I should add a thermal fuse inside.

>>3010569
The holes are 1.3mm wide, and they’ll likely print smaller than that. Steel wire will have a greater shear strength than filament anyhow.