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Based Edition.

This thread offers a forum to discuss and debate wristwatches, pocket watches, and clocks. Several members here are highly knowledgeable in specified areas of horology, so please contribute to the thread by asking questions and/or asking for advice if you are planning on purchasing a watch from an AD or the grey market. Please post pics of your watches here; it doesn't matter if it's worth 5$ or 50000$, because there might be someone who wishes to eventually purchase the same model that you own and would love to hear some real-world advice regarding ownership. The experience matters the most, not the price.

Everyone is welcome in this thread, because we are all Frens here.
>>
if only it was 4Hz
>>
Best thread in a while.
>>
Find a flaw.
>>
>>18603614
It's not on my wrist.
>>
>>18603614
It's unreliable and it needs 6 months to get serviced and they will claim you tampered with it so that the warranty won't cover it
>>
>>18603607
Finally, the complete avatarfag compendium. Here we have:
>machinist poorfag
Was making cases for casios and started pswt
>blake/coffee time
janny who slams pigslim
>mad stack chad
posted guns and wads of cash
>probably omegadrunk or mort
Dual wielding gaudy shitters, sees himself as a chad
>bittercel
poor and dirty, wears a shitty crusty brapling colt
>guy who posts gs and citizens etc
meh, German outfit, is German, posts watches
>whoreanon
turk slander
>cockwatch
on whoreanons knee, they used to have something, but have since fallen out.
>the rat
signals their common desire to ruin /wt/, possibly inspired by the urban rodent
>>
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Any watches that look like a kommandirskie? I love the aesthetics but the vostok's movement is a total meme. I thought about getting picrel but Timex's movements are so fucking loud
>>
>>18603637
Which part is unreliable? The date mechanism? FWIW I'd get the updated movement version.
>>
>>18603611
Why do you care?
Accuracy? You can get it adjusted to minute(s) per month which you will have to correct it almost every month anyway for the date.
Slightly smoother second hand? I guess but you wouldn't notice it if you were wearing it daily.
>>
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I rember when I was fat in middle school and then I discovered /fit/ and got skinny and suddenly girls treated me like a human and I was totally disgusted by their shallowness.
This year I experienced the same thing again when I went to the annual big Thanksgiving dinner hosted by family friends and everyone was so respectful to me and my wife because we have a child now. Boomers are so repulsive with the way they only identify you by your "role" instead of just treating you like a human being.
Anyway this got me thinking, from now on I will only be "impressed" by watches that old people own if the price of the watch is greater than their age times 1000. Most olds are just cashing in on the death of their parents and acting like they had success in life because the global economy allowed them to survive.
Being proud of a $15k Rolex is fucking pathetic for a 40yo. Your watch has to be worth at least $40k for me to acknowledge it if you're 40. Thank you for your attention to this matter.
t. zoomzoom
>>
>>18603654
Holy KINO
BTW do they still have pic related in the vending machines there?
>>
>>18603640
Look at Breitling, maybe a Chronomat. Also some kommandirskie remind me of the 50 fathoms.
>>
>>18603614
it's german
the positioning of the dials looks retarded
boring case shape.
>>
>>18603637
Looked into it and apparently the date can get fucked up when jumping at low power reserve, even on the updated movement with instantaneous change at midnight.
>>18603667
>it's german
So you're saying I shouldn't get a Stowa either??
>>
>>18603614
Why does it need a pusher at top left if it only has date complication?
Was big date complication slapped on time only movement and the only way to set it is a pusher?
>>18603667
>the positioning of the dials looks retarded
Nah man it's actually perfect: look it's in golden ratio or something.
>>
>>18603676
My guess: a controlled amount of force needs to be applied for cycling the huge date. If it was connected to the crown you'd be able to accelerate the mechanism too fast and cause it to skip. (?)
>>
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Posting in the bestest based thread.
>>
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>>
Recommended me a GMT without an outer bezel (I don't like how they look)
>>
>>18603654
I don't browse /wt/ but this is an excellent image.
>>
>>18603654
do u do guys
>>
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>>18603745
>>18603750
That's not The Citizen: Excellence
>>
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>>18603640
day-date is only for degenerate neet alcoholics who don't know if it’s wednesday or last friday, and at that point it doesn’t matter anyway
>>
>>18603656
My friend sorry, first time that I'm seeing this.
>>
>>18603614
Two tiered date discs.
>>
>>18603745
>>18603750
Where's Kofe?
>>
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>>18603933
>day-date is only for degenerate neet alcoholics who don't know if it’s wednesday or last friday
You know nothing. A day spelled in full is a thing of beauty.
>>
>>18604004
Based Weekdater Chad
>>
>>18603607
>was wondering why it was a turk with a JP girl
>it's a Greek instead
>>
PradTudor Time
>>
>>18603750
Wait, what's going on? Why does everything on the dial seemingly floats?
>>
>>18604137
PradUFA Time
(it is /fa/ after all)
>>
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Kofe time.
>>
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I am, in fact, a Seiko fanboy
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>>18604144
Highly Redpilled. I have to admit, the durability of those prada sneakers surprised me a lot. It's rare to see sturdy luxury from a brand that you least expect. And that's no simple feat. The shoes that are made in Japan usually are obviously made with a Japanese lifestyle in mind. In this case, meaning that they have to withstand 5 years times 15,000 steps every day. "Regal" for example or ASICS. And seeing that those Prada sneakers that I bought 2 years ago look almost like new- it's a welcome surprise.
Anyway I'm extremely satisfied with those. What about yours?
>>
>>18604175
I wore Adidas sneakers for most of my life, and over time I found that I had to replace them more often because the quality of the materials, glue, and stitching kept getting worse. Eventually they were lasting less than a year. My shoes take a lot of abuse from motorcycling and occasional skateboarding. I was eyeing these exact Prada sneakers for 5 whole years, but they're more expensive than even my dress boots.
I guess I was waiting for some special occasion to buy them, and then one day, needing new shoes I bought a pair of all-white Pumas on discount for about $20 USD. Those shoes lasted less than 3 months before my heels wore through to the rubber. They were mostly made of foam lol.
After that I said fuck it, this guy on /wt/ has cool LV sneakers, let's just buy the Pradas.
Given that they're a fully leather shoe excluding the gum and outsole, the price is actually not bad considering they're also from a known brand. All my other nice shoes are from Caulaincourt and were about 60% of the price. I did have one pair of Caulaincourt sneakers but they were unfortunately dogshit and I threw them away. I used to model for those French fucks, and ONLY their dress shoes are worthwhile.
Anyway, the Prada sneakers took many months to break in, because they're multiple overlapping layers of stiff leather. I was convinced on the style but they were hard to wear at times until I took them to Tokyo, throughly broke them in with all my touristfag walking at the expense of my feet, and now they're the most comfortable shoes I own. They're incredibly durable compared to other shoes I've had. They cost the same as 7 pairs of Adidas sneakers, and I suspect they will last at least 7 times as long.
>>
>>18604142
There is a clear layer over the dial.
>>
>>18604187
>and occasional skateboarding.
Cool, respect, i used to skate also, shit is brutal.
>>
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>>18604004
>A day spelled in full is a thing of beauty.
a pointless complication. why not have snek instead?
>>
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>>18604187
Based.
Thanks for the detailed response and honesty.
I assume you mean pic related? I don't wear them often. But they immediately broke in because, well, like you mentioned, in Japan you simply walk a lot. Granted, I have to wear them with thick socks to get a perfect fit. I don't think they're build to last though. It remains to be seen. They're my 4th choice of shoes.
And yes, I had a similar path as you. I remember my Nikes back in the day lasting for years and years, and as time went on, I noticed that I needed shoes (plural) every 9-12 months. So I said fuck it.
>>
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>>18603750
>>18604142
>>18604222
you can see two pegs holding the indices though. boring! opportunity to do something really cool missed.
>>
>>18604234
would have been even cooler if they used clear material for the indices pegs/support
>>
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>>18604175
horse culatta with shell cordovan time. yep, it's made with bits of real horse. so you know it's good.
>>
>>18604234
>OREALIS
>>
No one cares about watches anymore! Let’s all spam old pics of our shoes!!
>>
>>18604234
I think I've never seen a more interesting marker in my life.

>>18604250
Nice file name. I absolutely fucking love those blue hands. Damn dude, this watch is aura farming.
>>
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SpHExsClriE

find a flaw
>>
>Breitling Shark 300M Quartz

Should I drop 8 hundo for this used watch? I like Breitling and wanna get a new watch but cant justify spending more on a watch these days. Wanna give myself a christmas gift for all the hard work I did though.

I like Breitling, but a used quartz for almost a stack? What do you guys think about it?
>>
>>18604340
You already got your opinions from the other thread. Buy it if you like it, accept that it’s expensive/overpriced.
>>
>>18603607
Nasty picture. How does it feel being a retard?
>>
>>18604334
Don't like the plank dial.
>>
>>18604358
I didn't realise there were two types of watch threads these days and thought this one had more users since i got two contradictive replies in the other
>>
>>18604371
This one has fewer posters, but more active posters. Usually there’s only about four or five posters here. The other thread has more posters but it’s slower.
>>
>>18604373
Gotcha. So €800 is too much for that one.
>>
>>18604137
Put that thing on a white strap.
>>
>>18604171
>>18604174
Is that ceramic?
>>
>>18604340
What's the dimensions? Give us some more info. What's the MSRP? (NEW)
why this watch specifically? Does it really bother you being quartz?
>>
>>18604429
Quartz watches are best watches.
>>
i want a square watch. should i buyeder a cartier tank or a skmei?
>>
>>18604753
Get a Casio or the Patek cubitus
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Good morning.
>>
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>>18604426
Stainless Steel
>>
>>18603640
you can get the Vostok parts for piss cheap and that's the most important thing in a movement desu
>>
>>18603614
they're trying to justify the price by making it look special snowflake
>>
>>18604334
forgettable but very nice. I will forget it exists in 15 minutes.
>>
>>18604753
Very different vibes within this category. you don't say "I want a round watch" like it narrows it down at all, those 2 could not be more different and they couldn't be any more different than my dad's collection (a square watch man but he's into that 40s style with full text numerials, subseconds)
>>
>>18604882
Are there any watches you think are worth more than 10k?
>>
>>18604380
E250 should be enough to get you a nice watch
anything over 300 is too much
>>
>>18604887
For vintage watches, yes, historical value.

For new watches, yes, labor costs, but that doesn't mean I'd buy them. Well. If i was rich I'd buy a custom roger Smith immediately but.
>>
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>>18604896
But like one of his simple designs that actually looks good
>>
Giving the sorcerers a peek.
>>
this /wt/ i don't vibe with.
AI slop and all
>>
>>18604230
Cool.
>>
I am in 5000 dollars of credit card debt, which watch should I buy?
>>
>>18605027
UFA, ultra fine autism
>>
>>18605039
Hell yeah, I wish I still had time for painting minis.
>>
>>18605027
UFA watches already lost 40% of their value second hand.

Even new it lost 15% from the AD.
>>
>>18605027
11K on release
8.9K now new

After christmas price will be around 7K new and 5K second hand.

https://www.chrono24.com/grandseiko/grand-seiko-evolution-9-collection-spring-drive-ufa-limited--id43739913.htm
>>
How good are San Martin watches really?
I've heard people throwing around the idea that they are roughly on Omega level quality, but I've never seen one in real life.
>>
>>18605072
Judge for yourself

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7HK5G_-0Ixg&t=59s

And compare it to factory tours Teddy Baldass-ar does.

They are at Seiko level in my book, reliable brand.
Omega level would be pushing it.
>>
>>18605060
That's good for people who buy second-hand watches. For me, I'm very happy with it. Even if it loses 99% of value I'd still buy it, because I'd never sell it anyway.
>>18605068
I got it for $9.5k. I think 11k is the US price and that may involve some tariffs and taxes (?). I've been waiting 10 years for a smaller spring drive movement and it really exceeds all my expectations. The only watch I could see myself getting in the future is a Lange 1.
>>
>>18605074
So what is the real appeal of this brand then?
Are they just cheaper than the Seikos of same quality, or what?
I've seen they do have some cool designs, but nothing too crazy to explain why they got so popular.
>>
BREAKING NEWS: Breguet creates the first contact-free escapement (since Spring Drive).
My god europeans are so exhausting with the constant self-praise. It only counts when they do it, right? It's like when people talk about world records and add "by a woman" on the end to justify not being first.
>>
>>18605097
I'd say they are equivalent to Seiko but Prospex line, or Seiko Alpinist, Orient, or even Christopher Ward.

Their appeal is that they make copes.
They make good Tudor copes but they are not Tudor quality, Tudor is still a Rolex subsidiary for fucks sake.
>>
>>18605107
>My god europeans are so exhausting with the constant self-praise.
Swiss, it's the Swiss. They are just evil bastards who want to gatekeep horology.
>>
>>18605107
>>18605123
you are retarded.
>>
>>18605125
Prove me wrong, till then, you're the mentally handicapped individual.
>>
>>18605107
spring drive is not contactless, it uses a magnetic break with a physical contact to slow down the flywheel. also all the gears connect to each other and the pivots so you can't call it truly contactless.
>>
>>18605126
what spring drive has can hardly be called an escapement.
>>
>>18605145
nice trolling anon, have a nice day, cheerio.
>>
>check the other thread
>someone actually has a Patek
>instantly gets called a fake, a cope, ugly etc
Bitter indeed.
>>
>>18605143
Huh. The escapement is contactless. Go look it up, you seem to misunderstand the electromagnetic braking of the flywheel.
>magnetic break with a physical contact
???
>>
>>18605152
Spring Drive TECHNICALLY isn't an escapement.
It's just a different way to time an engine, like how quartz watches use a Lavet stator/rotor engine.
>>
>>18605154
Swisscope.
>>
>>18605162
Just sayin', that's exactly the kind of rational the mountain-jews would use to move the goalposts.
They've done it before.
>it's the 70s
>Seiko quartz calibers could win all the chronometric contests
>"akshully these are only for swiss watches, please ignore the fact we accepted german and french entries before"
>Omega makes a quartz chronometric movement that absolutely BTFOs the standards for marine chronometry
>"erm, as it turns out from this year on, marine chronometers have to come from this specific canton and Omega's quartz factories happen not to be in it"
>>
>>18605164
Just pretending to cope, eh?

Yeah, nah. This is a quartz thread. You can join the retards in the other thread if you don’t like it. Good luck!
>>
Bros I kinda like the Cubitus, any option for poorfags?
>>
>>18605154
No, it is a flywheel escapement. You're one of the many people that doesn't understand how a mechanical watch gear train works, because if you did you'd know the escapement comes at the end. You either have a balance wheel escapement or a flywheel escapement that is electromagnetically braked. Quartz watches use a stepping motor that drives the gear train from the start, as opposed regulating it from the end.
In other words you're a stupid nigger and a swisscoper, and before you cry, please note I own a Swiss watch, I just don't pretend it's not slop.
>>
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Any Casioak bros here?
>>
>>18605168
I wanna get the Omega quartz Marine Chronometer precisely because it made the Geneva circlejerk drop the mask for a second when their precious narrative of "super duper perfect irreplacable mechanical timepieces" fell apart due to quartz.
But it's too fat and I'm a wristlet.
>>
>>18605220
holy cope. no. what spring drive does is nothing like an escapement. it's literally just braking. there's no oscillation, there's no impulse, it's literally just a spinning wheel with a brake.
>>
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>>18605027
Speis murines?
>>
>>18605243
No oscillator except the piezoelectric resonance. You're wrong again. And here I was thinking there are too many YouTube videos explaining how spring drive works. You worm.
>>
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>>18605253
>piezoelectric resonance
I guess you must like these escapements. What about the ones in the f91w?
Find me one person besides your shithead that refers to the chink drive as an escapement mechanism
>>
>>18605213
Well you're in luck anon!
It is a Casio homage, so you can just the og for cheap. Check out Casio's retro catalog and pick your poison.
>>
>>18605263
It's not an escapement in the watch you posted. But in spring drive the crystal regulates the flywheel which is the escapement of the gear train. It's not negotiable. If you're actually too stupid to understand how spring drive works you probably don't understand how a lever escapement works either. Do you also use an iPhone and a MacBook and get impressed at how these magic boxes allow me to call you a dumb nigger?
>>
Guys, is the Grand Seiko spring drive better than a Rolex? Is it better than Omega coaxial? Given that San Martin has better finishing than Rolex, is there any reason to buy Rolex?
>>
Is the spring drive more mechanical or quartz? Is it better than the bregay magnetic escapement? Is the bregay escapement quartz? Does it have a flywheel like a spring drive?
>>
>>18605266
b-but I don't like them
>>
>>18605267
the crystals vibrations are processed by a chip which regulates the magnet which brakes the wheel.
It's quartz with extra steps to sound fancy.
It's nothing like an escapement which is meant to periodically release and stop the gear train. Nobody calls it an escapement besides you.
>>
>>18605284
I do, it literally is an escapement and you're a retarded troll.
>>
>>18605293
It will never be a real escapement. It has no escape wheel, no pallets, no lever. It is a quartz chinkshit twisted by engineering and marketing into a crude mockery of horological perfection.
>>
>>18605220
An escapement, or counting organ, takes an initial continuous motion (in the case of a wristwatch movement, the unloading of the mainspring transmitted through the geartrain ; in the case of a typical clock, the fall of a weight transmitted through the geartrain) and divides it into regular intervals that can then be regulated, which is the job of the regulating organ (balance wheel axle after the pin/ellipse and plate, balance wheel and regulation racket).
In a quartz watch, you have no escapement and the counting organ is the quartz crystal itself.
In the case of Spring Drive, the magnetic brake is the regulating organ, there is no counting as the initial motion is not divided in the first place. it is regulated, but it is not counted/divided.
Now put your swiss watch (a PRX mom gave you for your 15th birthday last year), shove it up your ass, kill yourself and while I'd recommend you ask the ghost of Huygens for a lesson in clockmaking, you won't see him because you'll be going straight to faggot hell.
>>
>>18604230
What's the snek's power reserve?
>>
>>18605143
>it uses a magnetic break with a physical contact to slow down the flywheel
First of all
*brake
And secondly, read that again, slowly.
The point of a magnetic brake is that it is contactless, you brake by manipulating the magnetic field through which the rotor spins.
>>
>>18605317
It uses an electromagnet to actuate the brake, that's all.
>>
>>18605305
>there is no counting as the initial motion is not divided in the first place. it is regulated, but it is not counted/divided.
The flywheel spins at ~480rpm or 8 times per second, the exact speed is picked up by the magnets, the time compared to the time from the quartz crystal, and the flywheel is then braked more or less. The movement is designed to run fast so that the brake force has to constantly be applied, in impulses. The speed of the impulses determines the braking force and thus the speed of the wheel.
>>
>>18605321
>It uses an electromagnet to actuate the brake, that's all.
No, it's a brake that uses magnetic forces to brake the wheel. Are you suggesting it has disc brakes??? Are they ventilated and floating? Does it have ABS?
>>
>>18605325
I will design a watch that uses disc brakes instead of a normal lever escapement. Trust me, i'm a watch designer.
>>
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>>18605325
>stupid westerners!! spuringu durive issu a real escapemento!!!
>>
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>>18605293
This anon is correct. It can't not be an escapement.
>>18605323
Retardanon will ignore this.
He'll also ignore that there are totally different types of escapement beyond lever and spring drive, some of which even use electromagnetism, because that defies his incorrect definition of what an escapement is.
>>
>>18605340
When you can freely define and redefine what is an escapement, then anything can be an escapement! Waow! So easy!
>>
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spring drive = tranny
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>>18605072
They come from the the same factory in China
>>
>>18605149
This didn't happen
>>
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>>18605213
>>
>>18605270
No, it's a quartz watch
>>
>>18605391
It quite literally did though.
>>
>>18605391
There were two Pateks. One guy was normal and no one called him out. The other guy was acting like a spastic and he got shit on. Just standard behavior, normal IRL and on 4chan.
>>
Honestly, if a San Martin is not your EDC, what are you even doing with your life?
>>
>>18605270
>>18605394
San Martin quartz is the pinnacle of horology.
>>
My granpa left me this, can’t find out the model. Anyone?
>>
>>18605423
https://www.chrono24.com/eberhardco/pre-extra-fort-16000--id43704465.htm
Here it is, and movement inside looks rather nice, if you can find someone to service it (and set chrono seconds hand to proper position) without taking an arm and a leg for it, I would wear it, it's even in modern size (40mm)
But don't get ideas that someone will pay anywhere close to the listing price for watch in your condition.
>>
>>18605401
I like ROLEX.
>>
>>18605454
Why?
>>18605248
The protagonist is finally back.
>>
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>>18605513
He never left.
>>
>>18605434
Anon should wear of even if it doesnt keep time

I wear my vintage stuff while I'm still trying to fix it and I don't even have an ex use like family hierloom
>>
>>18605534
Plus chronos are annoying and complicated (hence I don't own a single one) so it'll probably cost an arm and a leg
>>
Zenith defy skyline. Steel or ceramic?
>>
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>>18605538
Like I told you before, the ceramic can be found at 40% off because nobody wants it. It's an amazing watch for 10K but not for $16K MSRP. The movement/ticking is very loud so keep that in mind. It feels very solid but there's little not no finishing. It's a watch that will last for a long time but also keep in mind that the cool 10 seconds per one turn smal seconds dial gimmick thing is probably fragile and will need servicing often if you're planning to use it daily.
Absolutely go and try it on yourself. Also keep in mind that the lug to lug is like 55mm which means you need at least 17cm wrist to wear it comfortably. 16cm if you put it in a rubber strap that comes for free.
Anway, I miss my car-time.
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>>18605351
Anon showing up in the Tang Dynasty imperial court to tell them their water clock doesn't use an escapement because it has no impulse pin.
(They turned him into dimsum for his foolishness.)
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>>18605517
Holy BASED.
GS Bros, where you at?
https://files.catbox.moe/4bvgap.mp4
>>
So how are we supposed to recover?
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>>18605640
>linoleum floor
>fake high polish gold
>pale, middle aged hands
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any credor gigachad around?
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What is the big appeal of mechanical watches when you can't even see the movement on the vast majority of them?
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Kofe time.
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>>18605708
More important question is what is the appeal of a mechanical clock?
>More expensive
>Less accurate
>Requires more user input
>Can't see the movement in most cases
>Can't take it out with you to flex on others

Do mechanical clock owners buy them when they are planning on inviting quests over frequently so they can do their flexing from their home? Are mechanical clocks even something you can flex?

I'd love to hear your input, these questions keep me up at night.
>>
>>18605717
How do you flex a mechanical watch even when most people don't know anything about watches?
Most of my friends think solar is as impressive as automatic, if not more.
For them, just something with a nice design and good finishing will be impressive. It might as well have quartz inside.
>>
>>18605434
Many thankssssss
>>18605534
Ye I will probably Keep it as is, cant really afford to service it right now :>
>>
>buy my grail watch with blurry pictures for a decent price
>it's in great condition, like the third best I've ever seen
Hell yeah.
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>>18605517
>>18605637
I pull up.
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>>18605645
Something snaps in a man’s brain if he hits 30 and doesn’t have a wife and kids yet. It’s like they revert into the shittiest person they knew when they were 14 years old.
It even happens if they have those things and lose them later in a divorce.
It doesn’t get better with age, which is why even the Boomer social media sites are littered with geriatrics acting like 14 year olds.
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>>18605323
Thank you for explaining exactly how it is a regulation organ and not a counting organ, anon. You explained it better than I could have.
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>>18605640
By accepting Grand Seiko into your heart.
Praise be Spring Drive. Best regulating escapement in history.
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>>18605717
They go tic toc ding dong and that makes me go hehe
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>>18605791
>>18605791
>They go tic toc ding dong and that makes me go hehe
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>>18605786
>and not a counting organ
But it is, it counts the revolutions of the flywheel. It's called a Tri-Synchro Regulator, as the name suggests it does three jobs: generate electricity for the IC package, measure the speed of the flywheel, and apply the brake force to the flywheel.
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>>18605788
>Praise be Spring Drive. Best regulating escapement in history
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>>18605812
>is called a regulator
>"erm, that's an escapement, not a regulator"
>>
Is it true that mechanical watches will last you a longer time than quartz if serviced properly?
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>>18605833
yes, no, maybe, it doesn't really matter. "proper servicing" might include changing parts, as it might with quartz watches.

no one services cheap mechanicals (or quartz), they just swap out the entire caliber.
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>>18605833
Depends very heavily on the movement. Old quartz movements, from the 60s and 70s? Most of these will run to the heat death of the universe, with a service maybe once every 50 years. Newer movements from the 80s and 90s? These have cheap parts and may fail faster. The primary risk to all of these movements is batteries corroding them from the inside, so obviously if you're going to store one for more than a month you should just take the battery out. A modern solid state LCD's biggest enemy is probably the polarisation film getting washed out from UV, and even those can be replaced.

Mechanicals have more wear points, but you don't have to worry about a forgotten battery eating it alive after some idiot leaves it in a drawer. Biggest issue is modern lubes, which are far worse than vintage oils. Old lubricants gum up and make your watch stop working. New lubes degrade in performance over time, and let your movement grind itself into dust without you noticing until it's too late to save anything.
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>>18605838
Then what charm do people find in poorfag mechanicals?
I thought replacing minimal parts over many long years was one of the main cool points of mechanical.>>18605838
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Watchmaker here, ask me dumb questions. I won't answer clever questions because I am retarded.
>>18605833
Yes and no.
Quartz is not as fragile and disposable as many make it out to be and in a lot of cases, movements are swapped because it's more cost-effective.
If you service, say, a 9xx ETA type quartz caliber, it will be fine for ages.
On the other hand >>18605842 is unfortunately not entirely correct about vintage. The sad truth is, when these older calibers go wrong there is very little that can be done because of the lack of spare parts. Omega and Certina have stopped servicing some of their older calibers that had the reputation of being bulletproof for that reason (picrel, Certina, currently on my bench). I hear that the same is true for certain Oysterquartz calibers too but I don't have proper confirmation on this so take it with a grain of salt.
Meanwhile, mechanical watches may theoretically run forever if you service them before the axles can wear. Damage is going to vary depending on the caliber, especially with automatics.
>ETA with the old eterna 5-balls bearing
Will get wobbly after a bit. Known problem with the Valjoux.
>ETA with the newer 7+ balls bearing
You're likely to have it serviced before the bearing gets wobbly and the oscillating weight damages the bridges.
>Rolex with the oscillator axle
Hopefuly there will always be enough demand for generic replacements to keep servicing these forever because this part can and will go wrong and it is usually the first part that goes wrong. It's why you should regularly service a Rolex instead of waiting to have issues because if you let it run and swing, the oscillating weight will start digging into the bridges and the dust that creates will make all other wear and tear worse.
>Richemont's baumatic-based flat-bridge auto
The fork or bearing will shit itself before you have any other issue, but that's a real concern for the long-term viability of a lot of newer Panerai and IWC models
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>>18605848
The charm in mechanical watches is that you get better finishing than modern quartz, higher BPM for a smoother second hand, and larger hands because autos can move more mass than your modern quartz.
>>
>>18605854
Fair point, when I say vintage quartz I'm thinking more of Seikos where you can buy replacement movements for next to nothing because they made tons of them in ugly styles nobody wants anymore. Obviously you're going to have more trouble with parts from companies that are famously very tight with them and buying those watches for parts isn't economical.
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>>18605854
Are you a watchmaker?
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>>18605854
So what would be some types of watches that a normie poorfag can buy and expect them to last for many decades?
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>>18605863
solar quartz, if you will wear it daily the battery inside will wear out in 15-20 years, then you can replace it to continue to use it.
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>>18605855
All of these seem like they could depend model to model, except the smoother second hand for obvious reasons.
Surely you can find a well-finished quartz watch with big hands.
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>>18605865
I already have a solar g shock.
Do those plastic parts degrade sifnificantly over time?
I could be completely wrong since I am clueless, but a fully metal watch gives me the feeling like it will last longer.
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>>18605866
You can, but it's difficult. Again, most of the quartz market is gone, all that really persists now is the low budget, mostly plastic end like Casio and Swatch, and a handful of high end movements like Grand Seiko's 9f and Citizen's 0100. There was a short period where they did build a few quartz movement for heavy diver hands, but you don't see that much anymore. The smoother second hand is actually the easier thing to buy, Bulova started up precisionist a few years back for HF quartz.

>>18605868
The strap will be the first thing to go. Stainless steel straps last essentially forever, they can stretch over time if they're cheap folded links, but you can just bend them back into place. For the case you won't have issues, but the glass is probably mineral, which is hot dogshit and will scratch if you look at it funny.
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>>18605873
I bought this stainless steel casioak recently, but this plastic bulging out at the back of the case is bothering me somewhat.
Will this material be totally fine over the decades, or would it have been much better if the case was fully stainless steel?
I know the strap will go soomer or later, that one is fine.
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>>18605856
If you replace the caliber then the watch isn't really reliable, or rather it's as reliable as the spare parts pool is deep. There are some calibers that are produced in such quantities, we won't run out of replacements for decades.
>>18605858
That's a very interesting question but I'm not sure I'm smart enough to answer it.
>>18605863
You have a few possible angles :
>I don't want it to go wrong
Your best bet is to go for a caliber that is as simple as possible. Think of a big dumb Unitas/649x caliber. These are as simple as they can get, their architecture has been around for 70 years if not more if you consider pre-war pocket calibers that it is a modernization of. You can find a bunch of weird recases for these on ebay. Depending on your definition of "poorfag" you could also scout an Omega pocket watch with one of these, or an old manual-only Panerai.
>I want to be able to keep my watch running forever
Honestly, for what I've heard stuff like the solar quartz or radio-controlled quartz might fit the bill. These may eventually kil their capacitors but I've very rarely seen one with an actual problem that wasn't caused by an accident.
>I don't want to worry about repair or service
Go for something with a very common caliber. Either a Seiko or a basic ETA. That way, there are already so many spare parts that you'll be able to get everything fixed for a long time. Even once the brands are gone.
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>>18605881
It could degrade, but I doubt it. The biggest worry would probably be a watch lug snapping off or the hole getting reamed out after a lot of watch band changes, but from what I've seen the aftermarket chink SS fascia looks like it ignores those lugs altogether so you could even fix that later on. Something like a fancy ceramic case would be far more prone to failure than plastic, I doubt it'd be a concern for the life of the watch, maybe after a few capacitor swaps in 50 years, or if you work with corrosive chemicals.
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>>18605882
Ok, so I've heard that mechanical watches should be taken to service every 5-7 years.
What does such a service include?
Is it really not worth doing at all on cheap mechanicals?
Is it too expensive to do compared to the price of the watch?
Let's say I have a Seiko or a San Martin, should I just replace the whole caliber every some years or?
Would doing that cost me less than a whole new watch?
What is the price point for watches where servicing becomes more worth it than replacing the whole caliber?
Basically, any information you can tell me about these things would be highly appreciated.
I like the idea of longevity in watches, and I am planning to buy my first mechanical soon. This is a very interesting topic to mr.
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>>18605952
So your typical mechanical watch is going to be an NH35, which for the price can be considered a disposable movement, because the movement costs about 40 bucks and a service will cost you more than that.

It likely would not be cost effective to pay someone else to swap your movement out for you, they're probably going to charge you 50-100 bucks, plus the cost of the movement, it could cost you more than the watch is worth.

>What is the price point for watches where servicing becomes more worth it than replacing the whole caliber?
200 dollar movements and beyond start to make sense to service. Even then, it's longevity with caveats, depending on the movement you might not be able to get parts in 20 years.

>What does such a service include?
They're going to take apart the movement, check for wear, re-lube the parts that need lubrication to work, and replace parts that are too far gone.
>>
>>18605952
The service interval is subject to much debate but here are some of the brand policies that I am aware of :
>Rolex
5-10 years, likely because they knew the oscillating weight pin would cause irreversible damage if it remained longer than this when it came to their pregious generations of calibers
>Longines and Omega
2-5 years, they say. Nothing I've seen of the ETAs Longines uses or that I've heard of Omega would indicate that it's this necessary to do it that often. We do however know that Swatch does love a lil' bit of money and that they could use some more so I'd wager they insist like this to encourage more services than necessary. And wouldn't you know, 5 years is just when their warranty on mechanical watches ends, what a funny coincidence. When you go lower in range and get into Tissot, the suggestion might be worth listening to as they use the lower trim ETAs so there might be more fragile components. No idea how the new Powermatic type escapements will age either.
>Panerai and IWC
If it ain't broke, don't fix it. Which makes sense considering their calibers. You don't get much wear and tear but you do get plain old failures after a while.
(Cont.)
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>>18605952
(Cont.)
>Let's say I have a Seiko or a San Martin, should I just replace the whole caliber every some years or?
Thing is, the cheaper you go, the less sense it makes to do services since the cost of it will likely be comparable if not higher than that of the watch. With Seiko, I do not doubt that the low end models don't get serviced and get caliber swaps. It's just not financially viable to service these.
San Martin and the like I would be more weary of because while everyone can get their hands on a Seiko caliber, the chinese calibers in these Aliexpress brands are not easily available. I've had that issue I THINK with a Steinhart (not sure, it might have been a pretend brand with a fake german-sounding name but I know it's not Eberhart since they are legit. So I do think it was Steinhart. That was a while ago) and it was impossible to get access to spare parts without any doubt. As in : you can sometimes find listings for these chinese calibers but since there is very little documentation and the sellers aren't exactly reliable, there is no way to be sure the stuff you order is what you will get, or that it was even the correct part in the first place. So since the brands do not exactly have an aftersales or service infrastructure AND don't deal with established suppliers, swaps might actually be difficult. Service could be easier but it will be too expensive to make sense for the owner unless he really , REALLY wants to keep his not-a-Sub running forever.
When it comes to serious longevity, as if surviving past the first service interval, you really get what you pay for. Part of what makes a quality movement is its ability to be disassembled and reassembled without damaging itself in the process.
>don't you mean "without being damaged by the watchmaker"
I know what I've said. I have seen things.
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>>18605952
>What does such a service include?
If it's not done by a cheap hack doingvolume over quality, then it's
>disassembly
>external cleaning, with polishing if you asked for it and the parts are not plated
>functions checks and replacement of necessary parts
>inernal cleaning
>lubrication and reassembly
>full functions check
>regulation of the caliber
>external reassembly
>calling to let you know it's done
>billing + taxes + tip + tariffs + a kiss on the cheek + don't forget to say thanks + give us your wife or gf's phone number
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>>18605963
>>18605968
>>18605974
So the cheap movements don't even get re-lubricated ever?
You just buy a new one, replace it, and that's it?

>>18605968
Apparently san martin and some similar brands use NH35 in a bunch of models.
I'll definitely need to make sure for the specific model if I will be getting one.
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>>18605963
>It likely would not be cost effective to pay someone else to swap your movement out for you, they're probably going to charge you 50-100 bucks
That much? I pay that much for a service, surely popping the old movement out, the new one in, and setting it up shouldn't cost the same as a complete disassembly and reassembly, plus regulating.
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>>18605996
>I pay 50-100 bucks for a service
Which movement and what country?
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>>18606015
This rather poorly taken care of 60 year old thing. I opened it up myself first and noticed the rusty and obviously incorrect screw that failed and the damaged rotor that was audibly grinding against the caseback.
I told the first guy "the movement isn't secured to the case properly so the rotor grinds against the caseback and doesn't wind the watch enough so the watch stops every night at 3 something. I have 100 eurobucks, can you fix this please, and do as much as you can extra for that money." and he straightened the hands that caused the movement to stop, tightened (but not replaced!) the screw, cleaned the barrel, put it on a timegrapher, fiddled around with the regulation a bit (poorly i must say, the watch had +20 to +30spd) and put a new o-ring seal on. He told me the bearing isn't in such a bad shape considering what was going on witht he rotor, and the fact that it's a bit loud, and that it should hold for at least 10 years but that i should be looking for a new one. The screw untightened itself again very quickly, after about 3 months, and the rotor started grinding against the caseback again.
I moved into a smaller town in the meantime so i took the watch to the local watchmaker. I told them specifically what the problem is and the woman working there replied "ah so a general service?". I explained again and she wrote it down and told me they don't actually repair mechanical watches themselves, but they did have a contract with a big service center in a big city nearby, so they sent the watch there and told me it would cost "about 40 eurobucks". When i got the watch back she told me they replaced the unoriginal rusty screw with a new, correct one, added another one that was missing!!!, serviced the movement (disassembly, cleaning, reassembly), regulated it (to +5spd if i kept the watch fully wound), and replaced the crystal for free.
It has been 5 years since then and the accuracy has dropped lately so i'll have to service it again soon.
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>>18605854
How bad is touching bits with your bare hands really?

I'm /k/ and bought a baby Browning with a fingerprint burned into the slide but that's one in a million I've never seen or heard of it happening.

I also do not give a shit about the watch in 50 years I'm not dealing with Rolex just trying to fix some cool cheap stuff for myself.
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>>18605538
Ceramic
>>18605585
>keep in mind that the cool 10 seconds per one turn smal seconds dial gimmick thing is probably fragile and will need servicing often
You got a single fact to back this up?
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>>18605656
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>>18606117
Nice PRX homage.
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>>18605656
>>18606119
Based Credor CHADS
>>
I've been reading the Velvet editorial by Repubblica, a famous Italian newspaper.
80 pages of articles about the watch world and not a single one of them was about Rolex. Fucking kek.
Breguet, Audemars Piguet, Patek Philippe, Piaget, Cartier, Omega, IWC, Bvlgari, Panerai, Longines, Chopard, Grand Seiko, Citizen, Baume & Mercier, Tissot, Mido, Wyler Vetta, even fucking Federico Pederico de la Journe — but not a single word on Rolex. Fucking KEK.
>>
>>18606135
<that pic
Why are the Italians sucking up to the Germans? Does Mexico even make watches? Wait they do, they have that cigar-sounding brand right?
>>
Fortis Chads. Where are you?
>>
>>18606135
Rolex probably told them not to put their brand in their mud rag without an ad deal
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>>18606191
Yep, every watch brand paid for the content except Rolex. Confirmed to be the bloated assholes of horology once again.
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Kofe time.
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>>18606351
100% chance you're overweight
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Let me guess, you need more?
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>>18606357
kofe time is a cute girl
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>>18605995
>So the cheap movements don't even get re-lubricated ever?
>You just buy a new one, replace it, and that's it?
This is always going to depend on who you go to and what you ask. It's just that if the guy is a contractual Seiko repair center then he has to apply Seiko's standards and these are likely "switch these calibers but not these" because full services on low-end movements is a waste of money, the service manhours are worth more than a new movement and installation manhours.
You always COULD ask for a service anyway on your San Martin, it's just that the service usually costs the price of a new watch so owners just buy new ones when things go wrong.
If you want a price benchmark, the ones we apply here range between 150€ (for pocket watches with big calibers, these are very quickly taken care of), 300-ish€ (typical cost for a standard automatic watch) up to 600€ or so (chronos, calendars, etc). Unless there's a brand rate to apply of course. And keep in mind : with these costs, we are below the big group prices from Swatch or Richemont.
I'd always be suspicious if a watchmaker gives you a full service quote below 150 because there just isn't enough time to do everything unless the staff is horribly underpaid. Minimum wage in my neck of the woods varies from country to country but it's usually about 11€/hour. So at 150€ for a service you have to account for VAT meaning it's 120-ish of costs for the business. Remove spare parts and such, you'd have 100 or 90 ish left. So at absolute minimum wage, that means the service needs to be done in less that 7 or 8 hours which is possible, sure, a service is ideally shorter than that, but you get the idea. It's barely viable and it's not netting much profit. After paying the watchmaker's time, the business would be 10€ in the green.
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>>18606106
Pretty bad though it depends who does the touching. Not everyone "oxydizes" and leaves marks as easily because something something sweat and body PH I dunno I'm not a doctor or a chemist.
Just don't touch the caliber with your bare fingers. Sure, there is a way to do it safely (know from previous experience you don't damage metals, immediately wipe off the area you touched with alcohol, let it dry then rub the residue with rodico or another dry adhesive, wipe all of what may remain with elderwood plith and then check for wood debris) but itks just easier to wear fingercots.
If you have something with a fingermarks, you might be able to get rid of it with alcohol. Might. That's going to depend on how "deep" the fingerprint is and who left it.
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>>18606375
Kawaiii time :3
>>
I got the call today lads and I finally received an absolute grail.
Pretty fucking stoked to be wearing this desu lads.
I will be posting pics later, stay tuned!
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Kofe
>>
I've never touched a luxury watch in my life, so I have some questions.
Firstly, do they feel much better than cheaper watches?
Is the quality difference that huge compared to something that costs like 1k?
Could an average person tell the quality difference just by holding a luxury watch and a higher-end normie watch together?
Why do people who are not rich buy these?
If I was rich, I would totally buy nice watches. But since I am not, all I could do is either save for some years, or get a little loan to buy a Rolex or something, which seems like a retarded idea in my situation.
Can someone please enlighten me on these things?
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>>18606422
WTF is this? Marmitte on bread? kek
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>>18606444
>Firstly, do they feel much better than cheaper watches?
No. Under a microscope, fresh out of the factory, maybe. High quality case finishing gets fucked up after a few months of casual wear.

There are essentially 3 tiers of watches. There's budget, which are your 10 dollar gumball Casio watches. These are pretty crap. There's your decent watches, which go from 50 bucks up to a few grand. And there's the "high horology" watches, built for men with more money than sense using laughably archaic processes.

If I was paying 100 grand for a watch, here are some basic things I'd want. Titanium SS billet design for metal components, giving increased wear resistance and weight reduction internally, with a welded SS exterior for looks and better scratch resistance. Quartz instead of mechanical, attached sub-division indices, ultrathin construction. You're not going to find any of this on expensive watches, it's mostly just a fine art scam where they pay celebrities to wear gaudy shit in hopes it convinces oil magnates to buy one to be just like their favorite sports star.

>Why do people who are not rich buy these?
Because they're retarded and think it's a status symbol after watching Glengarry Glen Ross.
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>>18606448
>up to a few grand
So what would be the cutoff money these days where paying above it is retardation in your opinion?
Do you have any examples of those more expensive watches that you think are worth it?
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>>18606455
These days? You can get a pretty good chink watch for a hundred bucks with okay finishing and sapphire.

Value is a subjective thing, I don't see a point in paying more than 500 bucks for a watch. The main thing I find really lacking in watches these days is the bracelets, they're fucking awful. Bulky, bloated, imagine spending 5 grand on a watch and winding up with a shackle. Rolex has nice cases, but then you look at their "modern" watch weights and they're all up at 150g. Grand Seiko has great finishing, but then the bracelets are fucking awful to wear.

Ultimately, my advice for buying watches has always been to buy something you like. If what you like is a gaudy gold rolex, buy the shitty rolex. If what you like is an F-91W, get the F-91W. Buying a watch because it's expensive and you think that quality will somehow shine through is a fools game, just buy a fake rolex.
>>
>>18606447
Red bean paste
>>
>>18606444
>>18606455
>I've never touched a luxury watch
>do they feel much better than cheaper watches?
>Is the quality difference that huge compared to something that costs like 1k?
Yes. Rolex oyster bracelet are buttery smooth. I thought i hate metal bracelet before i had my Rolex, and i still do unless it's Rolex. The difference on a bracelet alone (as an example) is the tapering, the texture of the 904L steel, the finishing, the fact that they use ceramic inside the hinges, the micro-adjusts, the screws that make it easy to size. You might find some of this in a 1K watch, but not all.
>Could an average person tell the quality difference just by holding a luxury watch and a higher-end normie watch together?
Yes, on Rolex, IWC, Cartier, Breitling... Because of the weight, the finishing and name recognition. On a Tag Hueuer i'd say no, it looks and feel like a Seiko Prospex to me. Some really low class people probably wouldn't be able to but they can't tell the difference between Foie Gras and Paté either, or real and fake leather; it's on them and who cares about the opinion of those.
>Why do people who are not rich buy these?
Because they like it. Some people spend 3K a year of cigarettes.
>If I was rich, I would totally buy nice watches. But since I am not, all I could do is either save for some years, or get a little loan to buy a Rolex or something, which seems like a retarded idea in my situation.
It is retarded indeed.
>what would be the cutoff money these days where paying above it is retardation in your opinion?
It depends on the person, their net worth and their life.
Buying a 100K F. P. Journe for Mark Zuckerberg is not retarded. That's not even the margin of error he can estimate his wealth. What is retarded is buying beyond your means and buying a watch that doesn't match your life. If you buy a 10K Rolex and work as a cashier, you're a retard cashier wearing a Rolex. Same if you wear a 20K watch but fly coach.
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>>18606444
>Firstly, do they feel much better than cheaper watches?
Depends on the brand but Short answer is Yes. Huge difference especially if you've been wearing one for a long time and gotten used to it and then switch to a sub 1000$ one. I was wearing my top 3 for half a year non-stop rotation and when I went back to my Presage I was so taken aback that I gifted it to my brother the next day.
>Could an average person tell the quality difference just by holding a luxury watch and a higher-end normie watch together?
Kinda but kinda no. Most people guess the Moser to be around 3K but normies don't know how much a Rolex costs either. Anything above apple watch pricing is expensive to them.
>Why do people who are not rich buy these?
They like watches.
>Can someone please enlighten me on these things?
Ask away man.
>>
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>>18606472
Taken aback by the difference in feel and quality*

Top 3 are the top row. I foolishly left my credors back in Europe because I thought I'd be back after a while, I've yet to return.
>>
>>18604230
>the serpent's pattern is a star of david
How fitting.
>>
>>18606468
>Buying a 100K F. P. Journe for Mark Zuckerberg is not retarded.
To expend on this, someone like Zuckerberg or Bezos spends around 200K a day just for personal daily expenses (bodyguards, lawyer team, valet, personal coach, house keeping, cars, boats, planes maintenance), some of these costs being reported as company spending.
So, watches are just cheap trinkets for that level of wealth.
>>
>Firstly, do they feel much better than cheaper watches?
On some points yes, absolutely.
Case and materials used to be a big point of difference but now unless you go with some horrible mall cheapos, you will usually get steel and the movements will be to scale with the case. If you go cheap enough you can still find some chromed brass and tiny calibers in large cases with enormous plastic spacing rings and these feel horrible.
Bracelet are another point on which you really feel the difference. There is a first obvious threshold when you jump from folded or empty links to solid links, and them from pins to screws. Clasps also do a world of difference.
(cont.)
>>
>>18606444
(cont.)
>Is the quality difference that huge compared to something that costs like 1k?
The low and mid segments of the market have gotten very competitive and the quality has really gone up lately but there are still points on which you can absolutely tell the difference between a 1k watch and a 6k watch.
Bracelets and clasps were already mentioned. After that, the most obvious place where you can see the money is the dial. Once you’ve seen a few printed dials and compared them with quality carved and applied dials, you cannot go back. The difference between the flatter printed dials you’d find in the 1-3k range and a dial with stuff like properly carved in subdials, lathed textures, applied gold indices, that’s night and day. Honestly that’s what killed Tudor for me among others. To an extent Rolex as well because their dials aren’t up to the level of their price point competition anymore, granted dial quality and craftsmanship was never their selling point. Point is, once you’ve seen dials with differences in texture, with verticality in mind in its design, you really can’t go back. And that’s not even getting into enamel and guilloche.
Lines have been blurred quite a bit now but you can absolutely tell that a printed Tissot dial costs a lot less than an IWC dial. Though you do have some clear outliers : Panerai printed dials do not look like they cost 6k+ and the sandwich dials look just a bit better but they don’t look 7k either ; some Seiko dials look a lot more expensive than they are because the entire budget went there ; Omega’s dial game is kinda weak and some of the Constellation dials look too shiny for their own good, that paradoxically makes them look cheap ; half of Blancpain’s dials look like a bargain for the price, the other half looks like they belong in something in Tissot’s price range.
(cont.)
>>
>>18606496
>There is a first obvious threshold when you jump from folded or empty links to solid links, and them from pins to screws.
This is really not an issue anymore, chinks are pumping out solid link screwed bracelets for 20 bucks a pop. It was absolutely an issue for a very long time, but these days it's starting to get harder to find folded links.

Clasps are a gimmick. I prefer the cheapest folded clasps you can get, because the actual contact points in wear make them solid enough, and you get some decent weight savings over milled clasps. I don't need fucking 10 layers of adjustment built in when I can move up or down a pin twice a year instead, and save 10-20% of the watch weight.
>>
>>18606444
(cont.)
>Could an average person tell the quality difference just by holding a luxury watch and a higher-end normie watch together?
Yes but also no.
Your average turbonormie doesn’t know what an expensive watch is, what a luxury watch is and more importantly what they cost. Likely case is, Mr. Norman Normieson has a smartwatch or a watch that looked good in the store window and his idea of an expensive watch is “anything that costs more”. Dealing with watchmaking and sales, I have a bunch of acquaintances now asking me if I can help find them a Rolex (the only brand they know is luxury for sure since they’ve seen it sponsor fancy things like tennis tournaments) and their idea of the prices are always just above what they probably paid for their fancy brand new Apple watch
>hey anon, you think you could help me find a Rolex for 600€, maybe 800€?
That said, there is a point at which they can tell something is expensive. Precious metals are an obvious sign because anyone has an idea of what is gold and what is coloured coating since even the poorest of poorfag has seen a wedding ring or grandma’s old gold earrings. When something is coated, the colour just isn’t right. It’s too yellow or the shine is wrong and most people can notice when looking long enough.
>Why do people who are not rich buy these?
Who knows.
>or get a little loan to buy a Rolex or something, which seems like a retarded idea in my situation.
It is retarded, don’t buy your watch on a loan. Buy your watch when you have the money to purchase it and immediately send it in for service. Not because you will need to, but because you MIGHT need to. It's common wisdom for old cars, it should be for watches.
>>
>>18606498
That's true if you buy the optimized value stuff on aliexpress that's meant to serve as a display window for chinese factories that want to advertise the work they can do for others. Not when you're a meganormie at the mall. Trust me there are still plenty of hair-pullers out there. Unfortunately.
>>
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I dig this
>>
Is Addiesdive comparable in quality to San Martin?
>>
>>18606501
Neat watch, but it costs only slightly less than the downpayment I put on my condo. Shit's ridiculous.
>>
>>18606501
Still prefer this
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>>18606135
>indian flag
what
>>
>>18606533
San Martin rivals case, bracelet, hands and marker finishing with Rolex. So I doubt they're close.
>>
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Kofe kat time.
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Removed the cyclops from my super seville with a torch lighter, razor, and goo gone.
I felt indifferent about it at first, but the more I wore the watch the more I realized that it's just kinda retarded, and worse than useless. I don't have dogshit vision so I can read the date with no magnification, and the cyclops just makes it unreadable from most angles and otherwise obstructs the dial.
>>
>>18603614
The price. I don't have that kind of money
>>
>>18607168
That's a typical cashier watch.
Blingy/trashy and a little feminine.
>>
>>18604230
that's pretty cool. I wonder if that bothers random people who are sitting by and are like "WHAT IS THAT, oh, wait, what the hell is that?"
>>
>>18603614
sure
>subdial overlap
>"A. Lange & Sohne" not centered, the & is not at 12.
>too busy
>recessed date window is ugly
>probably too big on most wrists, you have to be at last 17.5cm to pull this off
>>
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>>18603614
>>18607180
>>
>>18607174
I was going to get the blue dial stainless steel version but the store I went to didn't have it in stock, they had this one and the s.s. green dial (ugly).
I wasn't expecting to like the look of this one but I did and I still do several months later. The seconds hand sweep is markedly smoother than my 4Hz Tudor.
>>
>>18605734
I'd recommend some polywatch or similar compound for the crystal, that's a cheap visual improvement you can do at home in under an hour
>>
>>18605723
70's & 80's vintage quartz movements are actually kinda nice.
Really, anything pre enshitification era.
There's a lot of tasteful classic digitals as well before companies began covering the 'dials' in paragraphs of text.
I actually find myself wearing my vintage quartz shitters most often because I can just slap em on and go in the morning with minimal, if any fuss.
>>
>>18607274
I'm pretty happy that my favorite watch of all time is an 80s quartz shitter, the only issue is getting a decent bracelet on them because fuck the old Seiko hair pullers, I need to make some custom solid end links at some point.
>>
>>18607279
I'm pretty lucky; most of the 70's bracelets that fuck with peoples hairs seem not to fuck with mine.
There's some decent Chinese vintage style bracelets these days, and you could also go the NOS route on eBay, though if you live in burgerstan the tariff rates right now on steel imports can be insane depending on country of origin due to the fat fuck in office changing his mind weekly.
>>
>>18607279
I was also considering making custom end links for one of my watches. Any ideas on who would even be able to do such a thing? A machinist with a lathe?
>>
>>18607293
Any metal fab shop worth a damn in your area should be able to if you can provide the proper dimensions, but the cost is going to vary wildly.
>>
>>18607289
My main issue with Chang bracelets is the fuckers will never give you weights, and often don't even give you basic measurements beyond lug to lug. I don't want a 5mm thick grug bracelet that weighs 200g, so I've just been modifying uncle seiko shit.

>>18607293
At this point my main considerations are getting something close enough but oversized, and then getting a sacrificial case to hand shape them with files, or getting accurate measurements and having jlcpcb do the CNC milling for me for 50 bucks.
>>
>>18607296
>if you can provide the proper dimensions
Wouldn't it be easier if i just provide the watch and the bracelet i intend to use?
>>
>>18607298
That's true, I basically had to play bracelet roulette to find one for a digital I have, but at least I have some spares now.
>>18607299
Yes, that's what I was poorly implying, and why going local is generally a better option unless you want to mail your watch wherever.
>>
Post some cool looking bracelets (outside of the usual oyster and jubilee and memes-of-rice), i need ideas.
>>
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>>18607312
Whats the bracelet for?
Do you have any personal style preference?
Are you hairy?
>>
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>>18607312
I've always liked the interlocking pattern stuff.
>>
>>18607329
I kinda like that super engineer stuff, but i'm not sure that would fit the watch which is somewhere between casual and dress. What's the sleekest, most elegant style of bracelet?
>>
>>18607384
I like the super engineer look, but they never have a taper and they're too thick. Nice on a bulky diver, no good for dress.
>>
>>18607397
I don't like tapering bracelets. At least not Rolex-levels of taper, that shit looks feminine and weak.
>>
>pay 100k for a watch
>need to adjust the date every other month
Is "high horology" one of the biggest scams of all time?
>>
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>>18607401
>tapering bracelets look feminine and weak
Imagine being this insecure.
Imagine worrying about "looking weak" while displaying deep seated weakness in an attempt to avoid it.
>>
>>18607432
The worst part is how every month I forget which way to turn the crown, and so the way I do it now is I go to turn it, then tell myself to just turn it the other way because I always get it wrong.

>>18607401
16mm is king, I could probably even live with 14mm. All my old Seiko bracelets taper this hard.
>>
>>18607434
>Imagine worrying about "looking weak"
Reading comprehension is not your forte. The bracelet makes the watch look feminine and weak. I don't want to wear a watch that looks feminine. I don't like the look of it. Simple as.
What you're suggesting is that a weak looking watch would make me look weak. You missed.
>>
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>>18607481
Advanced copium.
>>
>>18607184
Off centre/overlapping sub dials and dates are patrician
>>
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>Tripple barrel
>55 hours power reserve
>>
>"we spend the last 13 years re-inventing this ancient technology and we came up with this new ingenious escapement that does this and that because of this and----- so we managed to increase the PR from 70 hours to a MASSIVE 80 hours"
>>
>>18607778
Meanwhile solar Casio - 7 months power reserve.
>>
How much would a decent fake Rolex cost?
One of those that are not easy to tell at first glance, it would take someone who knows what the fuck he is talking about to actually take it in his hands and have a closer look to be able to tell it's fake.
>>
>>18608136
1k.
>>
>>18608147
What are the ones for 500 like? Any good?
>>
>>18608136
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aA-JiBH2mvk
>>
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RAWR
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>>18608261
How are we supposed to compete?
>>
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Kofe time.
>>
I think I will be getting my first San Martin soon.
Any tips in general? Like where to buy it, from which warehouse or whatever to pay less ideally. Which models have proven to be good and are there any to avoid? Stuff like that.
>>
>>18608657
They're pretty consistent from what I understand, you should probably just get it off aliexpress or their website, whichever is cheaper. Obviously search around for reviews of the one you like before you buy it.
>>
>>18608663
I am also interested in getting a Submariner or GMT master homage. Is San Martin the obvious choice if I want decent quality for a reasonable price, or are other chinese brands worth considering?
>>
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>>18608681
Just get BRAND at this point tbqh senpai
>>
>>18608261
>alien merch
Are you literally TGV?
>>
>>18608704
Why?
>>
>>18607401
You're worried about how it looks more than how it feels? Taper makes night and day difference in comfort. If you try on an oris divers 65 or divers date I think you'll find the best thing about it is the bracelet tapers to 14mm. It's so light and easy to wear.

The same applies to leather. A good alligator tapered to 14mm or 15mm can feel like it's not even there. Sometimes I have to check to make sure my watch didn't fall off.
>>
>>18608755
>You're worried about how it looks more than how it feels?
Of course i care how the watch looks, that's one of the reasons i wear it. I have a watch with an almost non-tapering bracelet (something like 20 to 18) and it's just fine. I just prefer non- or slightly tapering bracelets and straps to very tapering ones.
>>
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>>18608704
the chinese stuff destroys the branded japanese stuff (that's probably mostly chinese anyway) at the same price point though.
>>
>>18608756
"fine" is not "good.
>>
>>18608775
Yes but it's not BRAND.
>>
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I've been thinking lately, but what more do I really need from an automatic wristwatch? And I could only think of a perpetual calendar since this one isn't, but still.
Triple calendar, moon-phase, seconds hand, lume, dress style and water resistance...
this might be the last wristwatch I'll ever buy.
>>
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>>18608795
>looking at your watch to tell what month it is
>>
>>18608802
I do this and it's based.
>>
>>18608802
You clearly don't time travel that often.
it's ok. not everyone can afford it after all
>>
>>18608772
Evolution 9 bevels are like those on a Cartier Santos Dumont case if Cartier cared about quality.
>>
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I went to the reveal. The daymatic isn't very interesting to me, and neither are the colors. But they had several watchmakers present and in my infinite autism I asked one why the Richard Lange, RL Jumping Seconds, and Datograph have an overcoil hairspring but the Lange 1 and 1815 families use a flat hairspring. He said that it's mostly a nod to tradition, which is why it's on the RL models, and that it's more difficult to execute so it's saved as a special flourish. But he also acknowledged it would provide better timekeeping to the models that don't have it, but as a feature it's not a part of the "vision" of those product families. There were some early Lange 1s that had it, but now it's flat only.
>>
>>18608824
the days of the week are upside down
>>
>>18608833
That depends on if you imagine yourself sliding into the weekend or ascending into the weekend.
>>
>>18608824
No power reserve. The dials are flipped. And i want to eat it.
>>
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bros
>>
Should I get NH35 or PT5000 inside my San Martin Submariner?
>>
>>18608801
Breguet have lost the plot. What they should do is dump the fucking stick lugs so I can wear9ne that's bigger than 34mm
>>
>>18608889
Baller
>>
>>18608975
Get something with a Miyota 9000
>>
>>18608980
Why?
>>
>>18608982
Reliable/cheap to service, I mean the other two movements are also cheap to service i.e they will just get replaced entirely.
>>
>>
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>>18609011
>put your ugly logo and change text slightly and now it's fine to sell a replica
Hope it doesn't cost more then 200$ because that's what one with rolex written on it costs.
picture unrelated
>>
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>>18608681
>Submariner
>>
>>18609041
This looks more expensive than rolex. And it's 100% better finished than any Tudor too because Tudor doesn't have any QC at all.
>>
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>>18608801
>>
>>18609041
why is it so easy to spot a shitter?
>>
>>18609062
Got a lot of mirrors at home?
>>
NEED NEW THREAD

NEW THREAD WHEN
>>
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NEW
NEW
NEW

>>18609187

>>18609187

>>18609187
>>
>>18608975
neither get quartz seiko or don't and be a retard i don't care
>>
>>18608975
NH35 all day, everyday
>>
which gshock square 5600 is the best? i don't care about the illuminator thing and don't need solar.



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