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File: Transformer.jpg (1.22 MB, 2464x2858)
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What AC cable does this need?
300W 20V

Giving gaming laptop as a Christmas present but thrown out the old AC cable after it's fuse blown out a few months ago. Wire was fucked.
>>
>>107558344
It needs a standard IEC C13 AC power cable
>>
>>107558471
Looking on Amazon I'm seeing a bunch of input current 13A or 10A.
Figured out it's 300W/20V for 15A.

Should Input Current of the cable be 15A?
>>
>>107558494
No. The 15 A refers to the DC output side of the adapter

>300 W ÷ 20 V = 15 A.

On the AC input side, the current is much lower because the voltage is much higher.

>At 230 V (EU):
>300 W ÷ 230 V ≈ 1.3 A

>At 120 V (US):
>300 W ÷ 120 V ≈ 2.5 A

So an IEC C13 cable rated 10 A or 13 A is more than sufficient. You do not need a 15 A input cable.
>>
>>107558344
give it back tyrone
>>
>>107558510
Sorry I don't know much about the actual AD/DC stuff, is this the same for the UK plugs?

Just so that I understand, does this mean that it'll be able to handle 13A from the wall plug, then it'll convert that to 15A in the transformer and output it into the laptop?

Just want to be extra careful my present isn't a fire hazard.
>>
>>107558510
>10 A or 13 A is more than sufficient.
Isn't giving something that doesn't eat more than three amp the possibility of eating 10A before it pops a fire risk?
I thought that's why you use the lowest rated fuse for load... So the fuse breaks before the device.
>>
>>107558532
>is this the same for the UK plugs?
Power is power. You'll want the 230V math (it's actually 220, but close enough)

The brick does the trransforming, yeah, but I question 13A. It eats less than three, on paper. That's a potential to feed it 10A more than it needs. @220V/10A that's the better part of 2.2KW. That's where things like 'fire' happens.
>>
>>107558546
Sounds like it makes sense? The closer the fuse is to the max then the fuse will blow before the wires start overhearing and cause a fire?

>>107558566
I've found one with "Rated to carry 250V at 10A", that's still 7A higher than I need, no?
https://www.amazon.co.uk/StarTech-com-UK-COMPUTER-POWER-CABLE/dp/B0B1JLQJ5P
The wire I'm looking at.
>>
>>107558494
Right side says
>Input: 100-240V 4.5A 50-60Hz
>Output: 20.0V 15.0A 300.0W
So a cable that can handle 13A will certainly be able to handle the 4.5A this thing draws

>>107558532
>it'll be able to handle 13A from the wall plug
Sounds like you're thinking of this backwards. Saying it's a 13A wall plug means it can supply UP TO that amount, depending on what the device needs. So you can plug in a 1A charger or a 10A charger but not a 20A charger. This is different from voltage where the numbers need to match exactly (too low and the device won't run right, too high and you'll fry it)
>>
>>107558601
For context this is what the AC cable and transformer I need are.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Charger-Adapter-GX21F23045-SA10R16956-ADL300SLC3A-Black/dp/B0DM56BCTD
But they don't sell it and it's going for £130 elsewhere which I'm certain I don't need to spend since I have the most expensive part still alive.
>>
>>107558611
Didn't notice that thanks for pointing it out.

Im reading about AC/DC and it's saying make sure the polarity matches?
Their diagram is different to what's on here, do I need a negative cable that takes 240V at say 5A (if such a cable exists)? Or positive
>>
>>107558532

I am this guy
>>107558471
>>107558510

Yes, it is the same for UK plugs.

The wall gives high voltage, low current
The laptop needs low voltage, high current

The power brick converts this safely. So no, it is "not pulling 13 A from the wall". It only pulls about 2–3 A max from the wall, even in the UK. The 13 A rating on a UK plug or cable is just the maximum it can safely handle, not what it will actually draw.

The brick then converts that power internally and outputs 20 V at up to 15 A to the laptop. Using a normal IEC C13 cable with a UK plug (13 A rated) is completely safe and standard for a 300 W Lenovo charger.
>>
>>107558601
Props to >>107558611 - they actually looked at the label, instead of someone else's math, seems it's wanting 4.5A, not <3A.
I'd aim for a 5A fuse if possible. Else 10A.
5 would pop the fuse earlier, and legit there's not much excuse for this to pull more than 5A..

>>107558611
>So you can plug in a 1A charger or a 10A charger but not a 20A charger.
If you plug a 10A device into 1A fuse, the fuse will pop instantly.
You put a 1A device into a 10A fuse, and that goes wrong, there's a potential to pull 10x the load it's rated for. Most 'modern' things have a failure mode that isn't "fire". Most.
>>
>>107558665
Thanks a bunch mate, honestly.

>>107558715
I assume I can ignore the 50-60 hz at the end of the input?

On top of trying to get a cable close to 5A, it needs to be rated higher than 240V right?

Just out of curiosity, the transformer should theoretically be fine?
The old cable basically exploded, the wire was a little exposed, touched something and there was a bright quick flash, a little noise and the house electric got tripped. Also burnt a tiny bit of my shoe next to the wire.
>>
>>107558648
>Im reading about AC/DC and it's saying make sure the polarity matches?
More of an issue for the DC side, and that's not a cable you've messed with?

Cable that feeds the brick is just common cable, maybe with a shaped head so it only fits that brick. Might just be a kettle lead. They tend to have 3 cables in there, Live/Neutral and Earth. AC - or alternating current - doesn't have a +/-. It alternates. In this case, it's shifting 50x a second, or 50hz. On a physics end, it's the rotation of the strator, as it rolls over the + contacts 180° and become negative, become positive, become negative... creating a nice sine wave (Three phase is just three of these waves overlapping so the drop in one wave is countered by the rise of another)
>>
>>107558746
>I assume I can ignore the 50-60 hz at the end of the input?
Pretty much, yours is 50, but you'll unlikely find something to plug it into that isn't either 50 or 60. ...
>>
>>107558746
>touched something and there was a bright quick flash
Definitely conduction. On the outside of the unit, high probability that the energy just went back down the cable and missed the device. But not knowing what it touched...

>and the house electric got tripped.
Hopefully saved the device.

>Also burnt a tiny bit of my shoe next to the wire.
That's not good. That should trip before that can burn your flesh, ideally, I expect shoes to take a little more. If anything, it's best these things are 'oversensitive'.
>>
File: Plug.jpg (184 KB, 1080x1172)
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184 KB JPG
>>107558769
One of these, the wire is completely fine for this one.
Last wire was tied up and over time it got exposed, probably tied too tightly I think.
This is one of those plugs that don't care about polarity? Or rather anything that plugs into this, always has the same polarity?
>>
>>107558809
Laptop worked fine after I came to my senses of being flashbanged irl playing Cyberpunk.
I definitely played it a little close, it was making that wirey sparking sound whenever it moved into a position it didn't like and eventually just gave in.
>>
>>107558816
>One of these
Kettle lead will fit. Is it manual-specification, nope. Have I done it? For decades. Tho kettle leads tend to be 13A, so it may give it more than it needs in a failure.

>This is one of those plugs that don't care about polarity?
For a given value of "don't care". Upper pin there is earth, lower two is neutral/live. They swap +/- 50x a second... Something like that likely fine, not really caring which is which.
>>
>>107558471
>>107558546
>>107558611
>>107558769
>>107558784
Genuinely thanks a bunch fellas. Helped me a lot and put my mind at ease about not giving something dangerous to a teenager on a happy day.
Went into this looking for 15A 300W cables lol.

Seriously anons you are the best.
Wishing you all well, a very happy Christmas and a good New Year.
>>
>>107558862
Brilliant, found one doing 10A/250V so I'll get that one since it's less amps and the fuse will blow sooner rather than later.

The wire I've ordered https://www.amazon.co.uk/StarTech-com-UK-COMPUTER-POWER-CABLE/dp/B0B1JLQJ5P
>>
a helpful thread in /g/? wtf is this?
>>
>>107558941
>https://www.amazon.co.uk/StarTech-com-UK-COMPUTER-POWER-CABLE/dp/B0B1JLQJ5P
Despite being on scamazon, it isn't actually double what it should cost...
Bonus: can change the fuse. That's getting rare.

You say 10A, the pic has a 13A fuse...



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