File: 1775378870484000.png (2.03 MB, 1200x1600)

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So in trying to remove my scroll wheel assembly it ended up breaking (pic related). What are my odds of fixing this with glue? Am I screwed?

>>108992144
Figured it out:
Highlighting is based on C89, which doesn't allow ({})
fixed by adding

let g:c_no_curly_error = 1

in init.vim

welcome to costco I love you
>>108992210
drill out replace with steel rod

>>108992210
did fix similar with paste made from superglue + baking powder. Had to file it back to size tho. Broke again after a year.
Alternatively try resin glue.

>>108992247
>baking powder
Why did you need that? Why not just superglue?

>>108992259
It adds a filler and the powder particles make it less brittle (not as tough as resin tho).

>>108992286
I see, maybe I'll try hot glue, it's a good filler.

>>108992312
Hot glue doesn't stick that well. You have almost no surface area there you need an excess of glue and file it down. Resin is the most tough but wasteful. Superglue+baking powder is like cement.

>>108992201
Does this work? How do I use it?
https://github.com/drocologue/open-in-mpv/tree/master

Is MEGA a good cloud service?

I've looked into this a bit, but wanted to check for sure.
I recently bought an m.2 drive, kind of a shit time to buy, but whatever. Right now my OS install is on a regular SSD and I wanted to start completely fresh with win10 IoT on the m.2

What I wanna know is if I can put the SSD into a spare laptop, and it'll act as if it has my old windows install and boot normally, just reconfigure for the laptop hardware. Is that possible with win10? It's mostly for a few account-related things, if not I can write down all the passwords or something before swapping in the m.2 and doing a fresh installation.

File: ebike plug.png (888 KB, 1178x678)

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I'm looking to retrofit my e-bike to use more common connectors so I can service it more frequently and easily. I don't know much about modern mid-high power connectors and don't have a DigiKey account.

What's a good connector to look up that
>can carry 36v, ~800w peak without melting or exploding
>has exactly eight or nine pins
>relatively weatherproof (or can be weatherproofed)
>I can get a pack of more than one but less than 20 of on amazon for relatively cheap
>preferably fits one way or is at least easy to mark
i have a crimper and soldering stuff so that's not an impediment. it's for 3phase AC and 5 or 6 pins for sensors. i say "or" because i have a few motors available and i want to be able to replace it with either type as things inevitably fail without changing out the connector. the connector will be on the front fork of my bike so it has to deal with some splash and a variety of weather conditions. i'm not adverse to it being pretty big as long as it's flat.

I don't wanna use the "standard" 9 pin "ebike cable" (picrel) because it's not standard at all and they fucking suck to inspect for damage or ingress, and you can plug them in wrong very easily if you don't mark it up yourself somehow (and any such mark is guaranteed to wear off in the first snowstorm)

>>108992259
>>108992286
>>108992328
iirc the baking soda reacts with the glue and does wacky bonding stuff that makes it better by making the parts not exposed to air bond to the rest of the glue or something. it's not just a filler it does Actual Chemistry. and its not any better for surfaces, it's more for when you do need fill, and isnt for your >use case of a tiny wheel breaking

i would just take the pin completely out and replace it

>>108992597
Yes you can swap drives between different computers. All you need is the proper drivers, it will get them from windows update and you have to reboot once.

>>108992286
>>108992942
Report on my mouse fix

The super glue + baking powder worked perfectly, thank you

Then I realized I couldn't fit the wheel back into the encoder. And that's when I realized it is meant to be impossible to remove it without removing the PCB.

But to remove the PCB I would have to remove the battery which seems to be glued and I don't want to deal with that.

So I ended up unscrewing only 3 of the PCB screws (except the battery's) and bended the PCB with a lot of force until it was enough for the scroll wheel manage to go back into the encoder. Which fixed it.

But that dislodged the PCB and now the mouse's power switch is totally janked. With a lot of force I managed to leave it stuck at "ON" instead of "OFF" so everything is working for now, I'll just never be able to turn the mouse off but I guess that's not a big deal.