>WTF BROS IT THOUGHT PHYSICAL MEDIA WAS SUPERIOR, WHAT THE HELL IS HAPPENING TO MY GORILLION DOLLAR COLLECTION BROS OH NO NO NO NO NO
>>109072060it is, u not knowing what the most basic 3-2-1 backup does is the problem./thread
I have like, 2500+ CDs, 1500+ Laserdiscs, probably 500 CDs and about 100 SACDs and only two CDs and two Laserdiscs have rotted. One of the CDs was free in a lot, Trans-Siberian Orchestra. The second is rare and expensive, KLF's Space. And the two LDs are Hawaii and Alien, I got a different Alien without rot but haven't gotten another Hawaii yet. Both were reissued with no rot.
Works on my machine
Burnable DVDs and M-DISC also don't ave this problem so much - there is a hard top layer and the optical film/foil is sandwiched like with a Laserdisc. For the most part - I have a spindle of Verbatim DVD-RW with no top layer but most of the ones I have do have it. I use MAM Gold for real high value data, and M-DISC.
They get destroyed by light and heat, no, keeping it on a shelving unit that gets hit by sunlight for hours in the summer months is NOT safely storing it.Anyway, videogames are like, only 20 years old at this point, they are fine.
I rip everything with EAC. The only CD I bought that had errors that couldn't be fixed with repeated attempts to read it was able to be repaired using parity data from cuetools.
>>109073502Any single-frame dropouts will be inaudible if you have a competent decoder. Some CD players and decoders glitch at the zero crossings you get and just skip bad frames. Better ones will pad bad frames with all zeros to be at the zero crossing for the next actual sample.I own the first ever CD player, the Philips CD-100 and it has a nice instant muting feature for any glitch, and the triple-beam readout will read through most scratches. It's actually probably one of the best CD players I own, amazing the first CD player of all time is one of the best. I have many CD players including professional and broadcast units.
>>109073437Nigger, I had mine stored in AC in my house on a bookshelf and the cheap CD-Rs started flaking off like that.
>>109073527I don't care if it's audible or not I want archival grade backups. So I'm willing to put in extra effort to make sure it happens. The crowd sourced parity data is a good fallback for anything that needs it. If it's too far gone for even that then it's probably time to acquire another disc.
>>109073543Well if there is physical damage the best you can do is zero out the offending frame, it's so short that you'll never hear 1/44100th of a second of silence. I don't know what EAC does with a bad frame but I bet it zeroes it, the alternative is a glitchy sounding zero crossing.
Another thing you can do is put a reclocking chip in your CD player, they are pretty cheap on eBay ($30) and will make sure the clock is dead on and skip any bad frames. I didn't do this but they sell these piggyback assemblies where you just plug the reclocker into the DAC socket, and the DAC into the reclocker.
>>109073559It attempts to read over and over until it gets a good result. This has worked fine with some bad cases like a scratched up ex-rental CD from Japan that I got for 10 yen. I guess if it's impossible it just leaves the bad samples in which is where cuetools comes into play. The real question would be how many bad samples could a rip have before it's not able to be recovered using parity data? Also you're fucked if it's truly rare and there aren't multiple people out there who managed to get a good read and submit it to the db.
He's quite fat isn't he?
>>109073576I know. It seems to work OK.The problem with a CD is there's no internal clock for every sample, just for every frame, so if you get a bad subframe your clock can go bad. This is why some people choose a reclocking chip (they used to be whole circuits with a master clock, now it's all just a small chip). I would rather "hear" an inaudibly short non-sample of zeroed silence than that chirpy glitch you get with a bad sample.If you want to rip a CD the best units are the old Philips-mechanism CD-0 or CD-1 CD-ROM drives, they are SCSI only but EAC will work with them great. They are slow, but plentiful and cheap used. The old CDM-0/1 mechanisms have the triple gas-tube high powered laser that reads through scratches better than cheap shitty new drives, also the sled moves on a curve so there are more steps for the drive sled to move along. You can trust me on this. It will enhance EAC's performance mechanically.
>>109073593Is a Plextor Premium 2 ok?
>>109072060Put your stuff on Minidisc instead. Looks way cooler and more durable too.
>>109072060>anon posts something that he has probably never witnessed in his own life>anon does not know of the humidity and storage conditions of said disk in the photothinks he made a pointlolLmfaoo, even.
>>109072060thats UV damagenext time dont store your CDs under the window
>>109073527>I own the first ever CD player, the Philips CD-100 and it has a nice instant muting feature for any glitch, and the triple-beam readout will read through most scratches. It's actually probably one of the best CD players I own, amazing the first CD player of all time is one of the best. I have many CD players including professional and broadcast units.I have the CD-104 which is the same thing but with a tray loader, it kicks ass. It can even play fine a broken disc, and that's despite it being 40+ years old. Crazy good how they made things back then.
>>109073559>I don't know what EAC does with a bad frameIt re-reads it 10000x times until the CD breaks from the physical strain. It's how I ended up with a broken disc that I since use to test standalone CD players.
>>109075037Plextor Premium and the PX-7xx drives (704,708,712,716,750,760) are some of the only drives with pretty much perfect audio offsetting, and working, native C2 correction, plus accurate subcode reading. They are the Cadillacs of old CD drives and the best choice for ripping discs. They are also very fast.Do not get the old CDM-0/1 based SCSI drives. As accurate as they are, they are slow as shit and you need SCSI cards to get them working. Those mechanisms were designed for reading CDs at 1x speed and they do this extremely well but if all you want to do is rip via EAC or Redump, then a Plextor 7xx is better.Those old audio-only drives handle scratches by skipping a sample and interpolating the difference from the previous and upcoming frame, which works for audio players but won't make a difference if you are trying to read bit-exact copies on a PC. Audio CDs also don't have per-sample indexing like that other anon said, that's why you need offset correction in EAC so 2 different drives can read the same frame and get the same data. There's also limited to no per-frame error correction (C2 is broken in most drives) since the drives are expected to interpolate over errors, EAC gets around this by re-reading every sector 100 times to make sure it's okay.Problem is that a CDM-0/1 based drive has slower random access due to the radial pickup arm, so this would make EAC extraction times worse, unless you rely on C2 errors which I don't know if such drives would support. Nevertheless all online ripping sites (Redump, Redacted, etc) recommend C2 off because it's not reliable and using software re-reads, so you'd be boned either way.tldr: the plextor premium 2 is probably your best choice for reading audio cds accurately, out of all PC CD drives ever made.
>>109075625>I have the CD-104 which is the same thing but with a tray loader, it kicks ass. It can even play fine a broken disc, and that's despite it being 40+ years old. Crazy good how they made things back then.Yeah that old mechanism is now back in production at sime US company, it's $1500 just for the bare mechanism. Tons of those old players still floating around too.
>>109077948>is now back in production at sime US company, it's $1500 just for the bare mechanismhold the fuck up, really? I can't find anything about that in google, where did you read this?
>>109078557https://www.suos-hifi.com/$1500 for the mechanism, $3000 for the dev kit including servo board and other supporting electronics, bring your own DAC. At least last I checked a couple years ago. And it's an Austrian company.
>>109079189jesus fuck.I wish I could code low level shit like that, I'd make my own cd reader that can do weird shit like bypass EFM and save the bitstream directly.
>>109073539stop talking like a black person whitey ameritranny
>>109072060Works on my machine.
>>109079336That kit is literally a (mostly) working CD player, just plug in your own DAC of your own choosing and rig up whatever output stage you wish.
>>109073409>>109073437>>109073477Right.
>>109079498They have separate servo boards and control boards that interface with the servo board. That's as low level as you can get. Even if you can't make it output EFM you could do something like output raw data prior decoding to audio/filesystem, ie. read the raw sectors. Maybe even go as crazy as bypassing the TOC and read everything from pregap and postgap.
Shoulda bought metaphysical media.
>>109079604The pic I showed actually has everything including the digital output. All you need is an external DAC and to make a pretty cool looking case. I made a case for a PC out of a hollowed out stump one time, lol. You could make a wickedly cool CD player out of a log or something. I live on the PNW coast right next to the beach so driftwood always washes up, I've seen logs the size of small locomotives here. Not kidding.
>>109072060I have CDs that would cook and freeze in an attic for decades. Still fine.
>get plastic storage bins>throw some silica gel in there and replace it every 6 months or even each year>store your CDs cases on polypropylene bags>store them vertically>keep the storage bin inside a closet for no UV exposureCongratulations, your CDs will now outlive you and your grandchildren.