46 KB JPGRubber dome edition>Keyboard recommendation template:https://pastebin.com/n220xk9V>Find vendorshttps://www.alexotos.com/keyboard-vendor-list // Up-to-date list of reputable vendors with brief descriptionshttps://keycaplendar.firebaseapp.com // Tracker for current and upcoming keycap group buys>This keyboard stuff is so expensive!https://aliexpress.com (or Taobao if you know how)>Learn about MX-type switches ("mechanical keyboard switches")https://rentry.org/mkg_switches // Introductory guidehttps://www.theremingoat.com // Switch reviewshttps://www.switchesdb.com // Compare force curves>Split and non-standard layout resourceshttps://compare.splitkb.comhttps://keyboard-design.com>What does ______ do to a keyboard's sound?https://blacksimon.tv/science (Google sheet)>Practice typinghttps://monkeytype.comhttps://keybr.comhttps://thetypingcat.comhttps://play.typeracer.com>How Cherry switches do backlighting, and why it's not idealhttps://rentry.org/mkg_backlight
>>109626854Nah, it's related to his springs. A common mod for Ellipses' boards is to swap the springs with Unicomp springs, since they're closer to the weighting of an actual F.
>>109629312Counting down the days to my beamspring shipping is probably gonna kill me You guys will be the first to know how it is though
>>109625149bumping this post over here
>>109629530Modern idk last time I used an mx switch was like zealios 65g which are like clears But those have probably been supplanted by other switches by now
nth for split columnar stagger
>>109629312Ah, I see. Softer springs = less tactility. Shame that your only two options here are Joe or Unicomp, and if I were to replace all my springs, that'd be $100+overseas shipping from Unicomp.I also realized what might be adding to the reverberation of my board. It's not so much the empty case or the lack of foam as it is the fact that I mounted the medium bumpers to lift it up, so the space between the keyboard and the desk now gives it a more empty sound. When I move it off my desk mat it does sound like it's more echoey. I wonder if adding an ideally thin Poron foam between the PCB and the bottom inner assembly would be the best option here, it does have a visible gap when you disassemble it so it's probably doable and could help the most, since the flipper hitting the PCB is the source of the noise that then reverberates all around. Maybe I could attempt the o-rings on the assembly mounting again, but last time I did it I realized it leaves little to no space for the screws with the washers to thread in properly, and idk where I'd find plastic spacers that are this short to avoid dealing with the synchronization of both the washer and the case threads. Plus, the mounting holes on the assembly are uneven and too large so the washers like to pop right through them. And I think I'd need to dremel one side so that I could shift the whole thing to the left, it's offset to the right when mounted.Still, I feel like I made the right choice. Unicomp doesn't offer this sort of layout, they don't have NKRO, they're not programmable, and either way I'd have to pay out of my ass for international shipping and customs fees. Just about every defect on my unit is cosmetic really. The shitty gap on the F13-F24 row, the case having smidges from the chinks fucking up the painting process, the assembly not being perfectly centered, nothing that would make the board unusable. Whether or not it's acceptable at the price point, idk. One man project and all.
>>109634634I just don't really buy Joe's excuses for the aesthetic flaws when there are people making much less money than he does running flawless group buys with very nice looking builds. The 21xx was run by just one guy too and that case looks phenomenal. Sure, he's not doing as much as Joe is to be fair, but still. Joe has no standards as far as aesthetics are concerned.
>>109635206>Joe has no standards as far as aesthetics are concerned.Yeah, he's a pedantic engineering savant with one hell of an ego. But hey, he managed to recreate the Model F from scratch via reverse engineering all by himself while Unicomp is a proper company that runs off of the shit they did for IBM back in the day, so it's not like he's full of shit with his keyboards. He definitely fucked up by doing so many models at once while still refusing to hire anyone to help, so the cracks start to show.
wooting knob wen??Otherwise I might just get this knob/dockhttps://www.amazon.com/dp/B0GXPG6NR4?lv=shuf&linkCode=sl2&linkId=59389d9f1078f76f7aee8860517238c6&gaOptInStatus=true&language=en_US&tag=randomfrankp-20&channelId=1&plpRedirect=mhFallback
>>109634634Pur a towel under your keyboard that's what I did when I had an old model mAnd like fold it over so it's double layered too
>>109636630>Pur a towel under your keyboardLol, yep it did the trick. It's a little messy cuz it lifts the keeb but it does dampen the sound.
Before I pull the trigger I just wanted to double check and making sure I wasn't buying anything incompatible. I had asked for advice in the previous thread about getting different switches because my currents ones were painfully bottoming out. With some advice and more research the pic related is what I came up with. The idea is that the switches will activate easily and quickly and the spring is supposed to be difficult to fully compress so it shouldn't bottom out like my current ones. But I've seen some comments about spring length and I'm not sure if that matters. Will certain length springs not fit in certain switches? I don't even see an option to choose a spring length for the springs I was looking at. Also what about lube, do I need to spend more for namebrand or will I be fine with a chinese knockoff? I don't care a ton about odd sounds just want them to function well. Do these choices seem like it will accomplish what I'm looking for or do you have any alternative suggestions? There were some higher spring weights 100 and up but I don't really know how it works and I was afraid to go too high in case it didn't work.
Topre gang, Topre gang, Topre gang (Topre gang)Spend three racks on a new chain (Yeah)My bitch love do cocaine, ooh (Ooh)I fuck a bitch, I forgot her name (Brr, yeah)I can't buy a bitch no wedding ring (Ooh)Rather go and buy Balmains (Brr)
>can't hold down the modifier keys on the F122 suddenly>they bounce back at random so they reset in programs>panic that I fucked something up>open the damn thing up for the n-th time>notice the kapton on the controller got punctured from all the foam modding attempts>it's scratched the backplate paint so it might be shorting>redo the kapton and get rid of the placebo foam>mfw it's still resetting>plug it to a laptop>mfw it's fineThis better be a Roy special. Or some other software issue.
>turning it off and on again didn't helpOkay, at least I know it's not an issue with the keyboard. I can hold it down for as long as I want on my laptop, Leyden Jar Diagnostics Tool reports a steady activation and it seems to be only affecting modifier keys.
brown vs banana switches for typing speed?also:>Budget50-150, 200 if there is a good reason>Location (continent at least)europe>Preferred switch typetactile, dunno about resistance, not loud>Layoutansi>Form factor60%, but not too important>Backlightno>Previous/current keyboardslogitech k120Goal is to improve WPM (120-150 atm) and reduce hand/finger strain.Maybe Keychron K9 Max with browns or banana?Won't take out caps, maintain, lube nor clean.Should be wired, straight, no curvy shit, no gay shit, don't care about RGB lights.Need something that is a tool and arrives complete, without fiddling. Don't care how it looks.I don't need it to be a hobby, fuck consumerism.Thanks in advance, appreciate it, love you.
It's some weird fucking software fluke I can't pinpoint as it decided to fix itself at random. At least that's a smaller worry now. Keeb gud. Winbobs bad. This one, the other Winbobs gud.
