old:>>7966038
>>7976862MOOOODS!
>>7976862man this is some gay shit, whats with grown men and femboys
>>7976872That's a girl.
>>7976889That doesn't make any narrative sense
>>7976917That's Helen of Troy being taken by Theseus, you brutal ignoramus.
>>7976920Then why is "she" white, retard?
>Think painting looks ok >realize a while later it actually sucks and is a mess when it comes to values, proportions, colour etc.
>>7976862
>>7976921Don't ask me, I'm not a kucked zoom zoom, I went to see TROY to the fucking movie theater in 2004.
What is a good way to clean an older painting to give it another pass? Solvents are too aggressive, but anything with water sounds wrong as well.
>>7976927>I learned about greeks from a jewish stage play featuring anglos
>>7976923instead of """"thinking"""" you should stop imagining to be better than the masters who developed sketches, studies, comps etc before trying to tackle the actual painting and do the work
>>7976933Those are not greeks, those are jeets. Fuck off.
can't wait for this to hit 200 posts with like 10 paintings posted kekw
>>7977037I don't do /trad.
>>7976945Then why do they draw themselves exactly like that huh?
Never used this general before. What are the rules? Drawings with /trad/ tools?
>>7977119>Drawings with /trad/ tools?Nice to have, but not necessary.Knowing the theory is more important.
>>7976928What exactly is your intention with the cleaning? Why does it need cleaning?And what paint medium are you using?
>>7977131Oil, i want to give it another pass.
bought two large sheets of watercolor paper, and both of them had broken sizing, you know its broken because once you stretch it, the paper didnt absorb the water and there are blotches and wet spots everywhere. Cant return it to the store either because i already cut them down into pieces so i have this stacks of unusable watercolor papers around and... i'm so pissed right now. the worst thing about this broken sizing is that you cant even test them out. If you touch the paper it'll feel the same like any other normal watercolor paper - it'll leave a slightly sticky residue in your fingertips like any other normal watercolor paper, lay a first wash of your color in their unstretched surface and it'll also look normal, it'll buckle but its normal, and lay a second or another wash and you'll learn that your sizing is broken and the paper is essentially defect. You can 'fix' it by fully submerge the paper for 15 minutes and break the crystallized sizing down, but it'll strip your paper down to only cotton and its going to get ugly if you try to paint on it.Should have get myself a block next time. Its worse in quality than sheets and prone to buckle, but hell atleast its 'protected' from reckless storekeeper because it comes in stacks - on top of each other
>>7976889not to me
>that retard in the previous thread attempting to defend studentslop abomanaćion creatura mutt paint mixtures that have five different shit dubiously lightfast pigments and are packed with fillers when pure pigment oils are readily available from old holland / blockx / willamsburg / rublev et al. and not even that expensive if you don’t spend all your money on weedfuck off and die retarded faggot.
>>7977119you have to be a retard faggot willing to dispute even the most banal common knowledge in online painting discussions which is why there is now some braindead faggot claiming>student grade paints are actually good because naples yellow and also they are le cheaper which leaves me with more money to spend on le vidya and weed in moms basement>>7977147you shouldn’t need to clean anything unless your shit stains got on the painting somehow. you want to “oil out” the painting, preferably with whatever oil you’ve used as a medium (or whatever is in the paints you’ve been using, probably linseed)assuming the paint film has actually cured, take some oil and rub it on the painting gently (easiest way is just using the palm of your hand) and in a couple minutes wipe away the excess with a paper towel or ragif you want to understand why this is important ask chatgpt because i’m too lazy to type it and some fag is probably going to show up and argue that you should clean the surface of your painting using nigger semen, so i’d prefer to give xem less material for xer to “debunk”
>>7977266You can still use it for gouache, drawing etc. Also no, the first wash won’t go down normal on bad sizing, are you sure you didn’t soak it for too long or use running water? Sheets come in stacks too, btw, sizing has a shelf life of like 6 months depending on humidity. You can always try tub sizing the paper
>>7975106I've just started painting in oils. Bought Schmincke Norma paints but I am finding them much too wet or thin or slippery or whatever the right painting term is. I am thinking of buying different ones that are thicker from a different brand. Any suggestions for oils paints that have a nice consistency or anyone know of any sites that rank and describe different brands of oil paints, perhaps? My local art store has a pretty wide selection of brands (Old Holland, Rembrandt, Sennelier, Schmincke Akademie, Windsor Newton, Williamsburg, Daler Rowney) but there doesn't seem to be something like an ingredients list on the tubes that will tell me the ratio of pigment to oil?
>>7977690>but there doesn't seem to be something like an ingredients list on the tubes that will tell me the ratio of pigment to oil?No.Brands are known for their consistency, not sure where you can look it up.At the same time pigment load and consistency has no corelation in this days.You can make a paint very thick without putting a lot of pigment into it.German paint are totaly overpriced.Norma is student grade and its quite thin. But at the same time it has a lot of filler. I find them nearly unusable. You can put it on a price of tissue or paper for a time, it will pull excessive oil, improves the consistency a little bit.Mussini is very smooth as well, not an impassto paint, but has a high pigment load (still very overpriced)Old Holland and Williamsburg are impasto brands, with decent amount of pigment.Rembrandt, WN are soft with less pigment, both are more or less like Norma.
Applying for a painting MFA, and I'm really stuck on creating a cohesive body of work. I have the technical skill, but how do you start from a thesis and create work around it? It seems like schools really want to see an exploration of an idea versus good draftsmanship.
>>7977699thanks, man, I'll try Old Holland or Williamsburg.Does the tissue-trick come with a risk of the color fading or becoming matte, sinking in?
>>7977810>risk of the color fadingThat happens only with titanium as far as i know.>or becoming matte, sinking in?Thats a very broad question. Norma contains a lot of excessive oil, much more than what would be the optimum amount of oil. I forgot the name, each pigment has a coefficient of how much oil it can bind. If you put only that amount of oil into your paint will get underbound even if the ground is ever so slightly porous...It is really complicated. I told you in the last thread, look it up at Just Paint its complicated.As they are Norma paints are barely unusable, too much oil, they take forever to dry.The only good German oil paint is Mussini. I buy them because i like the soft consistency.But if you dont mind stiffer paint, the 2 European brands to go are M Harding and OH (some small manufacturers can be good too of course). I Like MH more, they are a little bit softer.P.S, i havent bought paint in a while now, i dont know if the quality dropped or not. Considering the high inflation new batches can be lower quality.
>>7976889nah you are
>>7977551just got home and wet another sheet of paper, and here, see for yourself anon. This is what broken sizing looks like; those blotches/spots are crystallized sizing, you can break them down by submerging the paper for 10-15 minutes but doing so will strip away the sizing and make the paper useless for watercolor. >use gouacheGood idea but sadly i dont have gouache or use gouache medium.
>>7978198and this is how it looks like on surface, without backlight transparency
