I'm looking for a 300wm chassis rifle with a folding stock. Something similar to the SIG cross.But this is my first magnum rifle, so I don't want to spend a bunch of money only to buy the wrong thing.Should I buy something cheapish like a Berga B14 instead just to get my feet wet?What glass would you buy. I would like it to be at least 24x with mil units and mil reticle. I have a vortex crossfire II AO 6-24x50 currently which I like, but I know it's on the cheap end.It must be capable of 1MOA with match ammo.
>>65022295What precision rifle do you currently have and why are you wanting a 300?
>>65022295Bergara make fine value rifles, but like >>65022328 said it'd help to have more details on what you're trying to do, assuming you've thought that through. Like, if the answer is>"I just want to play with a magnum round for fun and bigger boom and 300wm is the cheapest factory one"no problem, nothing wrong with that at all. And in that case definitely start on the value side. But if for example you're big on reloading and want more room for that, you might want to consider 300prc at this point instead because 300wm doesn't really have the coal within the spec to play with modern super high bc rounds. If it's for prs games specifically and you actually aren't after a magnum per se, then something 6.5 flavor might be a lot better. I'd also then consider more strongly something with very easy swap barrels/bolts so you can adapt fast. Etc etc.>glassThere's a lot of answers to this, that said value chink glass has gotten shockingly good, as good as quite high end western stuff from 10-15 years ago. Athlon or the like would probably be a default recommendation unless you're after something specific. That said, 24x is plenty enough to get you out to 1000-1200yd ok, so no need to get anything else to start with if you're happy with that. Mil reticle is good, though designs are personal. If you go with higher end stuff really try to see if you can get behind it in person somewhere, eyes are all different and at the high end how it fits you matters.
>>65022295If you are looking for accuracy I would skip 300 Winchester magnum.For one you can get weatherbys entry level rifle in any caliber and they offer quite a few and you will be shooting sub moa out of the box. 300 weatherby magnum is good. 7mm Remington magnum is also damn good. You can get sup moa out of the box with a basic rem model 700 or a Winchester model 70. Both of those were the standard sniper platform for the US military. The Remington being the most recent in the m24. The m24 was a Remington model 700 with a 30-06 bolt length that was chambered in 308. They then switched to 300 win mag. The ONLY reason the military and manufacturers like or use the 300 win mag is because it fits in standard length actions. It is a compromise you don't need to make. Last I looked weatherby ammo isn't even that far off regular magnum ammoBy a basic bitch model 70 or 700. Used even. Then dump as much as you can afford on mounts and glass and ammo to shoot. You will not be shooting better than a sub moa rifle can perform. I can shoot sub moa with factory ammo out of a wood stocked model 70 in 7mm rem magnum topped with low to mid tier glass. If you plan on reaching out over 300 top tier glass is going to help you more than adjustable combs and stocks.
>>65022295A mistake a lot of people do is to get a rifle that is too light for a powerful cartridge. When shooting .300WM, an 11-pound rifle will have much more manageable recoil than a 7-pound rifle.-t. dude who shoots .308 but watches his friends buy expensive rifles only for them to shoot their guns once and sell them.
>>65022453Ehhh a factory 700 is going to run the risk of having major issues and needing parts replaced right out of the box and a Model 70 isn’t going to be compatible with the vast majority of new stocks and chassis systems on the market. He’s better off getting a short action Bergara B14 HMR or a Tikka T3X CTR in 308 or 6.5 Creedmoor unless he specifically needs a magnum for some reason. I’m assuming he’s new to long range shooting because if he was an experienced long range shooter he’d already have something in mind and wouldn’t be asking us.
>>65022328Basically just 2A type reasons, want to own and learn to use a military style sniper rifle. Something that can reach far and hit hard. If it can punch modern military plates that's good too. I can reliably hit a man size target with my AR15's at 450M but 5.56 is too anemic at that distance imo. Not to afraid of the recoil, I think it's fun to shoot guns that kick hard. I'm ok with whichever 30cal magnum, but I said 300wm because of the availability. Not planning to reload right away, but I might eventually.
>>65022917I changed my mind. Get a Sig Cross in 300 Win Mag and throw a vortex crossfire on it.
>>65022399>I just want to play with a magnum round for fun and bigger boomI'm offended. But yeah kinda. See my preceding post, still needs to be accurate.Currently torn between Sig cross, and a b14. B14 being the budget, but it works option and the sig cross being the spending too much, but its exactly what I think I want option.The athalon Heras SPR 6-24x56mm looks pretty good. I always go for the huge objective lenses, maybe that's stupid.>you might want to consider 300prcI know 300mw is slightly inferrior to other 30 caliber magnum options. I'm trying to avoid the mistake of buying "the new hotness" just before it fades into obscurity and becomes poorly supported. Made that mistake quite a few times. I've had much better luck buying the slightly worse "thing that everyone is already using and getting good results with". Is there a better 30 cal magnum that's very firmly established. Like they'll still be making factory ammo and rifles 20 years from now?
>>65023082300 PRC i would call pretty well established now. Do you reload? If yes or plan to, I'd say go for that. If no, then .300wm. you may also look into a custom rifle. If you're going chassis anyway, you can cut out the middle man and go straight to a custom barreled action that will come to you blueprinted and more feature rich than any factory option
BCA BC-8 FOR $1,200. MAG FED SEMI AUTO. YEEHAW.>>65022917.300 win cannot punch good ceramic plates unless you use AP. M2AP reloaded to about 3,200ft/s will clown on Level IV / ESAPI, however.
>>65022295Get a 300wsm orn300prc first, they both have their advantages over the 300 win mag. Also of course 7prc if you want to shoot long, it has better ballistics and still plenty of energy downrange if you want to hunt long range
>>65023285>BCA>semi autoNah, OP mentioned a folding stock too so that's right out.
>>65022295My buddy bought a Tikka Super Varmint RTG in 300WinMag this week, absolutly massiv that boy. Check it out, should fit into a MDT chassis too and gets all the trigger upgrades for tikka. First choice was the HMR PRO but they took the 300PRC/WM out of production. Im getting the HMR PRO 6.5 CM H.B. in around 6weeks, both of us gonna run the ARKEN EP5 on them
>>65023628The semi auto action is better for rapidly popping armored goons like a patriot.
>>65023082Huge objective lens is good if you do a lot of shooting in low or lower light conditions. It also helps with cheaper glass, since the reduced transmission of the shitty lenses is made up for somewhat in light gathering of a larger objective. All you're really loosing is form factor and weight
>>65023653That's true I guess but I don't think a BCA barrel is going to achieve what OP wants
>>65023659Hit them with the warranty process
Depending on how much you want to spend, OP, this or something along these lines are a really good way to go if you plan on putting it in a seperate chassis anyway
Highjacking your thread. Looking into ny first bolt action, and I think I'm set on the XLR Element 4.0 aluminum folding chassis in 6.5cm. What's my best option for a cost effective barreled action?
>>65023682cancel your order
>>65023682Look at the post above yours, arguably one of the best budget barreled actions available
>>65023082Agree with >>65023285, 300prc is well established at this point for a new round, though I'll add some of this depends on whether you live in a state where you can order online like normal or not. It's easy to get it online and it's not ludicrously expensive by magnum standards either, should be able to find plenty starting at 185-190cpr. Notably more expensive then you can get 300wm for but not snowflake or 33cal threebuxaround either. But if you are limited to what you can get locally then 300prc may or may not be available at all or might have some crazy markup or something whereas 300wm is everywhere.But yeah also agree it's only really worth it if you reload. 300prc is basically "300wm modernized with no downsides", it's modest and well balanced, but since it is in fact more expensive there's no point if you're not going to push it. 300wm is just as fun. There are other better performing rounds of course but they tend to be way more min/maxed, speaking of which:>>65023327>Also of course 7prc7prc is a big barrel burner. Not that 300wm or 300prc are easy going at all, they tend to get you 1800-2200 rounds vs like 4000 for 6.5cm and 7000 for 308. But I've seen 7prc burn barrels in like, 860 fucking rounds, if you're doing pro comp fine but that's getting too extreme for me or to recommend for a first timer imo.Maybe if those new steels they're experimenting with work out and give the 50-75% barrel life improvement they were claiming, but I've never tried one myself yet.
>>65023685Why?>>65023693Looks good, thanks
>>65023082>The athalon Heras SPR 6-24x56mm looks pretty good. I always go for the huge objective lenses, maybe that's stupid.Objective is simple, you get more light for more weight. That's it. Nothing wrong with it, just about how you use it. Shorter vs longer is another one, shorter is lighter but much tighter DoF, longer heavier but more forgiving.Athlon, Element Optics, and Arken are all pretty solid tier value manufacturers last I checked though starting to move up in the world like Vortex did before them. I haven't researched in the last 9 months so I can't tell you about the current state of affairs but just as a note, there has historically been a sweet spot if you follow various companies, basically the pattern has been a lot of optics makers start at the very ultra cheapest end, then slowly get better, then they either settle or try to make the jump into the high end where fatter profit margins are. But they don't have a brand name for nice stuff yet, so they sell cheap. Then they either make it or they don't. That leaves a window of time where you can by really awesome stuff for shockingly good prices from places nobody has heard of before, but you have to be paying attention.Nothing to lose sleep over and maybe the market will get saturated but just an FYI, you can get something now or see if there is anything cool going on.
>>65022295The reality is that you’re at a bit at the mercy of chance to get a true PRS level tack driver out of the box, even if there’s a bunch of companies with 1moa warranties. A lot of the serious long range guys run through barreled actions trying to find the money ones and flip the rest I’d get one of the Japanese made brownings or weatherbys, personally. They’re terrific
>>65022917>a military style sniper rifle.WTF does this mean though?>>65023285>.300 win cannot punch good ceramic plates unless you use AP.Anon, I once saw a .50 BMG FMJ fail to penetrate a level IV ESAPI. The material the bullet is constructed from will always matter no matter how much powder is propelling it.
>>65024085>WTF does this mean though?It's just like>fully-semi-autonaticIt's retard code for they don't know dick from shit.
>>65024085>Anon, I once saw a .50 BMG FMJ fail to penetrate a level IV ESAPI..50 BMG as noted in a paper by an L. Cannon is when you can potentially induce lethal behind armor blunt trauma even if it doesn't get "through" the plate. Look how thick an actual .50 caliber plate is.>The material the bullet is constructed from will always matter no matter how much powder is propelling it.Absolutely. Switch the .50 cal from ball to steel core like M2AP or Mk263 and it'll go through ESAPIs from hundreds of yards away clean. Tungsten core like API2000 and it's going through any plate.
>>65024085I guess it means something similar to the M2010 that doesn't cost as much as a car.I when I say it can punch plates I mean when reloaded with M2AP or similar.
>>65024175And it can. See pic related for some of Buffman's data. Even an XSAPI struggles against M2AP at about 3,250, and that's a plate grossly stronger than basic Level IV. Hesco 4403s and 4800s fold to M2AP under 3,000ft/s.I personally use Protech 2230s which are rated for M2AP over 3,510ft/s, but that's a rare 7.5lb, 1.2" thick plate.You aren't the only guy thinking about the whole "pop M2AP with .300WM" idea. It's been a sound strategy for fifty years. There are Level IV plates dating back to the 70s rated for M2AP well over IV spec.
Here's one good for M2AP at 3,000, 1971.
Comparing 300PRC and 300wm on ammo seek right now. The 300wm is much more available. Significantly cheaper at the low end. 1.15/rd vs 1.85. Plus the cheap stuff is priv partisan. Ive fired a lot of their 5.56 and it was very accurate.For factory match the price is similar around 2.40/rd.I'm leaning towards the win mag even though it's slightly worse.Is there a consensus that the HOWA - M1500 is one of the best barreled actions under 1k if I go that route?
>>65024201>The 300wm is much more available. Eh. I mean, from the sound of it in your case >>65023082 winmag is definitely the right choice. But if you can buy online then once you get to the point there are 100+ places selling in bulk I think there being 300 places for something else or whatever kinda stops really matter. Particularly in bolt rounds where you're probably not burning through tens of thousands of rounds and a few thousand will last a decent while. And if you reload then obviously a few thousand brass to get you going will then last even longer.>Significantly cheaper at the low end. 1.15/rd vs 1.85. Plus the cheap stuff is priv partisan. Ive fired a lot of their 5.56 and it was very accurate.>For factory match the price is similar around 2.40/rd.>I'm leaning towards the win mag even though it's slightly worse.It's not really "worse" these days (it's so old and so popular people have figured out how to deal with suboptimal bits like belt) so much as "less room to grow" imo. Like everyone has said it's reloading, and/or if you were in BLM land and really truly did seriously want to push out to a mile or more, that the difference would become more noticeable. Even then I'll note that people have been modifying 300wm to run out of spec for a long time too, it can be done no prob, it's just extra cost and awkwardness now that you can do better oob.But 300wm is awesome fun, bigger boom for as cheap as it gets with the option to shoot nicer stuff, 30cal has enormous support too. If you're not sure you're right to go for it.>HowaThis gets into taste, but I personally like the Tikka one more. The accuracy seemed the same, but the Tikka had one of the best factory triggers I've tried, both in use and reliability. The Howa was fine, perfectly adequate, but the Tikkas are also cheap and superb. The major tradeoff was lack of extra coal but that'd only matter if you wanted to go out of spec, and in that case you should do 300prc or 300wsm instead.
>>65022295300 milliwatts seems a little low for a rifle.
>>65025948my thoughts exactly
>>65022295tikka, bergara and howa are the big 3 solid first bolts that'll take most people as far as they ever go. tikka has best action imo, bergara nicest stocks and rem700 compat. none of them will steer you wrong tho so see what deals you can find
>300mw rifleJust what you can see, pal
>>65023704Didn't know 7prc burned barrels. I wouldn't use one as a hunting rifle, and that's probably about 200 years of life for a hunting rifle kek
Just get a 300 PRC AXSR :)
>>65024199Why no cock cover?
>>65031365Already over 30lb for the vest.
