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File: Untitled design.png (1.45 MB, 921x1189)
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Resources:
https://www.sheldonbrown.com/
https://www.parktool.com/en-us/blog/repair-help
Neutral Support News on Youtube

previous thread: >>2047439
>>
>>2049190
Haha, yeah. Turns out that the whole thing has probably been a hack job initially, and there was no way to assemble it correctly.
>>
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Why is it so fucking complicated for FOX to put a brief description of the fork/shock/seat post in the tube? It's a fucking printing.
I purchased a Canyon bike and the fuckers in Germany just tell you the models of the components and total travel. But then you wanna know things like total length of the outer tube, insertion diameter, spacers and shit, etc.....and you need to go into FOX.com and wandering the whole fucking support section until you will figure that the ACTUAL model year and then realise the best thing to do is to disassemble and start taking measurements.
A whole day lost for this shit.
Thanks for reading my blog.
>>
>want to buy individual cogs to be able to reuse old cassettes
>it's either unavailable or costs a third of a new cassette and is shipped from the antipodes
what's going on?
>>
>>2049245
well low quality cassettes have lomg since shifted from being serviceable to being complete units that only come like that.
It's the way most if not all things go today. Reduce cost on logistics, reduce cost on storage, reduce the number of individual items etc. etc. replace the whole thing.
Miche for example will still officially let you mix and match. With many others you need to buy the cluster and drill the rivets.
>>
Opinions on the Cube Nuroad FE? Seems really nice on paper. Feel free to suggest any other bike for 30-120km tours on mostly asphalt with some dirt paths in between.
>>
>>2049226
Yeah... Rockshox are definitely better in this regard.
>>
>>2049266
canyon endurace allroad
>>
>>2049266
It's really alright for the price.
>>
>>2049245
Cassettes are made and sold in huge numbers.
Individual cogs are made and sold in much smaller numbers.
Economy of scale means manufacturing cost and price largely depends on production numbers, the more you sell the cheaper it gets.
>>
>>2049205
May you post the original image?
>>
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>>2049272
but it's the same part, minus assembly.
if they're unavailable, then either the supply is too low, or the demand too high. it's not like it rusts and has to be thrown away
>>
Is there a good book or resource to use learning about how to maintain your bike? I could parktool and video it when I need to but I do want a headsup on stuff like learning the best timings to change my chain and stuff like that.
>>
>>2049278
It's not the same logistics pipeline.
>>
>>2049285
https://bike.bikegremlin.com/
check this out
>>
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>>2049273
>>
Lads, I just rode a century (miles). My time wasn’t fantastic, but I don’t give a shit and it’s been a while since I last rode one so it felt good to do again. Here are my tips/lessons learned for first timers thinking about trying one:

>Planning
This is an all-day ride, so shit has to be planned out at least 2 days in advance. Plan what you’re going to eat before you ride, and plan what food you’re going to bring with. No last second mods, and don’t scramble trying to get any last minute shit done before the ride. That was my problem. I made a food run in the morning before and tried to add bottle cages (all which took longer than expected) before I left and ended up leaving late.

Ideally you get out of bed in the morning, put your shit on, hop on, and get going.

>Weather
I also advise monitoring the weather and riding WITH the wind the last 50 miles if your route allows. Plan around the wind.

>Food
Eat whatever the fuck you want the night before, but don’t each too much in the morning before you go out. I ate an Aldi pizza the night before my ride, but the real problem was I ate ANOTHER Aldi pizza the morning of. My body didn’t digest it very well and I resigned myself to drinking Gatorade the entire ride because I couldn’t put any food down during the ride itself.

Ideally, you eat light in the morning, and stop every 45 minutes to an hour and put something LIGHT down with carbs/sugar. Even though you’ll burn 4000kcals during the ride, riding for 8 hours on a full stomach sucks ass.

>Fitness
Don’t be afraid to take it easy if you feel tired. You definitely don’t want to gas yourself out at any point during this ride.

Overall, the centuries are tough, but they’re not impossible. Watching the weather, planning your nutrition, and taking it easy will really help you have an enjoyable century experience on your e-bike.
>>
>>2049300
advice is much appreciated

>taking it easy will really help you have an enjoyable century experience on your e-bike
sensiblechuckle.webm
>>
>>2049300
that's pretty faggy of you. Centuries are nothing difficult, try high elevation routes then you can (You) me
>>
>>2049287
gnarles thanks bro
>>
>>2049309
Nobody asked (You) shit. :DD
>>
>>2049226
Isn't the serial number on the crown tho
>>
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inside of head tube on new crabon frame, worrying?

(repoast since last thread is over bump limit)
>>
>>2049354
completely fine
>>
>>2049300
you cheeky wanka!
>>
>>2049327
He's right though, centuries ain't shit! Come back when you've done a 1500mile ride, then MAYBE we'll give you some positive reinforcement.
>>
>>2049358
That's 62.5 miles per hour.
Unless you count rides over more than one day, but then I do five 1500 mile rides every year.
>>
This might be a retarded question but how do I prevent my handlebars from coming out of alignment with my front wheel? It feels like even the slightest ding will knock it out of allignment
I just tighened the big nut that attached the steering tube to the fork and now steering feels more stiff, should I just lube it and hope for the best?
>>
>>2049356
You're a fag Dylan
>>
>>2049354
Not something I'd worry about. If it's rough you could lightly sand that area but it looks more like discoloration than anything.

>>2049369
Sounds like you're turning the preload adjustment bolt. The stem will have 1-2 bolts that pinch it around the fork's steerer tube. With the pinch bolts loose you adjust the preload bolt so that the fork isn't loose in the frame or binding up, then straighten the stem and tighten the pinch bolt(s) to the indicated torque spec.
>>
>seeing forums online because I was interested in upgrading my bike with di2
>people are considering buying a new bike instead
.....what the fuck, why? with the di2 upgrade, it can't be more than 1.5-2k grand. a new bike with di2 will at least be 4k+ (and let's be honest, you're probably really going to want to end game there so it's more 8-12k). why in god's name would someone suggest to just buy a fucking new bike instead of geting the shop to convert?
>>
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https://bikesonline.com.au/products/2024-polygon-path-2-urban-city-bike?variant=47958014099737
anyone have experience with polygon bikes? is this good for my purposes?
i currently own a cheap reid commuter bike which is 1x7 and i struggle to go up hills with it because the gear is too high on the lowest setting. it also has tyres too thin for the gravel i want to ride on, though i'm not interested in mtb trails, just gravel and paved. i understand this is a cheap bike but surely it won't be too bad right?
and no i don't want drop bars they're too faggy and tryhard. i'm a filthy casual and i don't care much about speed.
>>
>>2049374
that bike has a bottom of the barrel groupset
tourney is the trash they put on 200$ walmart bikes
>>
>>2049375
should i buy used instead?
>>
>>2049373
I share your opinion, but would guess that the people you're seeing are assuming that you'd probably want to upgrade wheels, components, and possibly a higher tier frame at the same time. 105 Di2 is coming on surprisingly mid bikes these days after all...

>>2049374
I disagree with the previous anon - this 3x drivetrain is cheap and heavy, but will work fine. This Polygon is a basic, generic entry level hybrid bike, nothing exciting to people into bikes, but it's not bad by any means. Go for it if you like the color.
>>
>>2049375
no, the Walmart bikes don't have named Shimano groupsets. There's an entire world below Tourney.
>>
>get $20 chink cycling shorts
>Fine and dandy for a week or so
>Suddenly "pinching" my perineum
>Bad case of chaffing
Would getting a known brand of shorts solve this problem or do I have to lather my crotch everytime I ride?
>>
>>2049384
I know the poor-anons won't like to hear it, but if you're gonna wear bib shorts you should pay at least around $200.00 to get a decent pair.
>>
Ahem

Gears are for queers

Thanks
>>
>>2049389
I paid 110€ for my Gonso and they're awesome.
>>
>>2049390
>Thickslick
Your opinion is worthless.
>>
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>>2049390
counterpoint:
>>
There is a gap of about a millimeter that the sprocket set can move after assembly. Did I buy the wrong parts? Should I look for a spacer ring?
>>
nvm, I found a spacer ring from an older build in my parts bin. It's a bit thicker than I would've liked but it works out.
>>
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>>2049395
not sure but it doesn't look like the lockring is tightened all the way. there's a spacer in there? those jagged parts on the inner edge are supposed to mate against the small cog, or at least on mine it does.
as long as it's tight it may be fine, but the grippy edge is so it doesn't unscrew. maybe put the spacer against the big cog?
>>
>>2049401
I already thought about putting it on the inside, so I'll do that. Thanks.
>>
anyone know of good pants that won't get WRECKED for casual cycling? I mean yeah I can wear my bibs and all that for training its fine but when im city cycling i don't want to look full try hard
>>
>>2049422
I just wear cotton shorts
>>
>>2049422
i buy 5 pocket pattern (normal jeans style) hiking/outdoorsy pants from a discount store.
>www.sierra.com
>>
>>2049245
it's back in stock
cool, time to place an oder
although I can't find one of my 11-28 cassettes
>>
Would a 1x5 drive train be inherently stronger than a 1x11 drive train? I've heard that a problem with 1x drive trains is the chain being at such an angle can cause excessive wear and premature chain breakage and whatnot. Obviously a 1x11 will have a superior gearing range. But would the 1x5 be inherently stronger and more robust?
>>
>>2049535
1x5 is stronger mainly because the chain in an 11 speed is thinner on the outside while maintaining the same 3/32 internal width. With that said, you have to be strong af to exceed the limits of any chain. Disability on the others will be more or less the same, 11 speed being worse of course but not to a degree it would be noticeable under normal circumstances, you'll have to adjust your indexing more often but it wouldn't be noticeably stronger or more durable unless you're throwing down 3+ horsepower
>>
>>2049205
I wanna get a gravel bike, but I have one route that I rarely use, is it a good idea to transform it to gravel?
>>
>>2049547
ahahaha ahahahaha
7sp chain stronger KEK
thw width of the chain has absolutely no bearing on its tensile strength and that should be obvious even to the mechanically inept.
A chain fails in tension when the plates fail in tension. Either the eye fails and the rivet is pulled out or the central section fails and the plate ends up in two. So it's the material properties and the dimensions (usually the width) of the plates that determine tensile strength of the chain. NOT the width of the chain. KEK
Now in practice the chain failures you see on bicycles are a completely different thing as no bicycle chain ever sees any force applied to it anywhere near its tensile strength and we see them (especially unworn chains) fail in unexpected patterns.
>>
>>2049581
Absolutely. Only poor people don't have a dedicated gravel route on their property.
>>
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>>2049422
I wear Lululemon pants anything stretchy would probably work
>>
Are there any good bike blogs or written publications? Bike Snob NYC is alright, but Sheldon Brown is dead, Singletrack hardly updates, and Bikepacking is alright, but I'm not into that.
>>
>>2049300
Here's what I learned from my first century (kilometres):

>Wear a FUCKING chamois
My poor balls...
>>
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How would you route the shifter cables here? The come out to the side of the brake levers and therefore need some slack to move with them.
>>
>>2049592
skill issue
>>
>>2049587
I don't know how to feel about this image.
>>
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>>2049593
They go from the brifter to the downtube.
>>
I need to figure out how to change my mental. I can cycle in the early mornings and I'm fine but if I cycle after work or during a weekend mid day, I'm already out there looking for a fucking fight. I dunno what's wrong with my but if these soccer moms wanna test me ill fucking wreck their shit. Too much T?
>>
I am 40 years old and I don't know how to properly bike. In the last 10 years I had a few experiments : once a friend of mine gave me his scooter (not e-scooter) and after a few tries I could sustain a linear path. And more recently with my gf we rented a city bike and I was able to again do that and pedal a few times.

I have never experienced that freedom of biking and I really want to be able to do bike rides. On the other hand, I don't really care much and maybe that's the reason I have never learned.

Is\was anyone in the same situation? What should I expect? I look forward buying my first bike and start biking. I also found out that I could take cycling lessons but I dont think anyone can give me in my area.
>>
>>2049611
Okay, thanks. I guess that's also the only way, now that I think about it.
>>
>>2049618
imo best way to learn if you are having trouble is to use a regular bike as a balance bike. some people take the pedals off a regular bike so its out of the way for this but thats up to you.
https://www.youtube.com/shorts/6Kd767K1hd8?feature=share
then once you get the hang of that, add pedaling

if you are extra retarded I would add a beginner step of rolling around in an office chair outside where theres lots of room. pretty much just push off with your legs, roll until you come to a stop and repeat.
>>
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Is this type of motor better than hub motors? The biggest advantage I can see is it's easier to remove the wheels to repair a puncture. The biggest disadvantage I can see is that the mounting position doesn't look like it will actually keep the motor in place. You also need to use a specific crankset with a freewheel in it.
>>
>>2049618
>I am 40
That's really sad dude but I'll try my best not to judge
Are you just struggling with balancing/staying upright? Find a road with a slight downhill gradient, it doesn't have to be too steep, just steep enough for gravity to let you coast on your own, then either try coasting downhill while getting used using the pedals while doing it or have a friend push you if you still need help and eventually you'll get the hang of it.
>>
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>>2049375
>>2049378
I bought this used instead. $170aud. He gave me his rear rack, a speedometer, a frame bag, a spare tyre and tube, a spare seat, a tyre pump and the frame bag was full of tools. Bloody bargain I reckon. I’m about to take it for it’s first ride. It’s heavy but I don’t mind too much. Giant Sedona LX.
>>
I really want a Primos Mono as a “first bike”, but all I can see about it is shills from Youtubers, Jewpacking.com and Reddit.

Can one of you guys take a look at the fucking thing and tell me if it’s:
-got easy enough things for any mechanic in any town to repair
-truly all-terrain capable, I’d like to go at least 12mph on roads and also not slide on gravel/mud
-not shittier than a big box bike


All answers will be appreciated. All anons that reply WILL be receiving large breasted Tifa Lockhart sexbots in exchange for this help. Thank you
>>
>>2049676
Yes to all. I get why reddit loves it. It's like a 90s MTB but new and with 28" wheels.
The shifters and brakes are department store quality but the frame and tires are OK.
>>
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>>2049676
>Primos Mono
Looks fine - nothing exciting from the perspective of someone into bikes but not junk either. It's basically in the same tier as the Trek Dual Sport, Giant Escape, Specialized Roll, etc. As long as final assembly is done correctly these are all fine bikes for the general purpose riding you describe. Only real reason not to get one of these is if you need a size S or XL (which they don't sell).

>>2049648
Speaking extremely broadly, mid drive is superior if you want to want to enjoy pedaling a bicycle (neutral weight distribution, assistance that complements pedaling force), while hub drive bikes are functionally electric mopeds. With conversion kits the main advantage of a mid drive motor is that it gives you more freedom to choose what wheels you want to use.

>>2049651
Solid deal if it's in as good of condition as your picture suggests!
>>
>>2049593
Can I use cable brifters like these (MicroShift clones) for mechanical disk brakes or do they require special brake levers?
>>
My bike makes a lof creaking noise when I put a lot of force and pedal hard standing. Should I be worried? Specially at the front of the bike
>>
>>2049678
>>2049679
Thanks the oppai women are on their way
>>
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>>2049712
check your QR levers, are your wheels on tight?
did you EVER think about the possibility that your bike has moving components and hence needs bearings and other things that constantly turn and are under load, so it might be a good idea for them to have some grease and lube on them?
>>
>>2049648
wrong thread, try the ebike one
>>
>>2049712
heh same here
I'll try to diagnose it later. Two suspects:
>crank got loose
>bottom bracket says bye bye
BB has got about 25K km on it, including winter. Might be dead.
Standing on the left crank makes more noise, and that's where the bolts are. It kinda sounded like chain rubbing the front derailleur, but it's not it.
>>
>>2049623
Thanks. I will probably skip the balance bike and go with a regular one. And just brute force it.

>>2049650
Welp, it's sad indeed. In any case, I don't want to keep sadness from moving on. I am struggling with balance for sure, but I think I could get the hang of it, if I had a bike and got on it more often.

Downhill sounds scary but I get what you say. Last time I tried I was on a flat surface and could pedal a few times but stopped. Having momentum even if scary sounds crucial.


Thanks for the advices!!!
>>
>>2049692
Basically most modern callipers are designed to or will work with brifters because no one else uses cable disc brakes.
But there are some like BB7 mountains which are made for v brake/linear pull levers only.
>>
>>2049734
Okay, thanks. I just remembered that I have a spare mechanical disk brake in my spares box, so I will just go ahead and try it out.
>>
>>2049676
they save money by paying a retarded three-year-old to design the logos and graphics and pass the savings on to you!
>>
>>2049712
try greasing and tightening your chainring bolts
>>
>>2049730
it doesn't need to be a hill, just anywere in a flat-ish area where instead of completely level it goes downward a few degrees.
take the pedals off, maybe tape around the crankarm to the frame so it's not going to surprise you, and put the saddle to where you can flatfoot the road, but not very much lower than that.

the psychological thing you have to get over is: speed is your friend (up to a point that is so high that you won't be able to achieve it yet) .
think of a spinning top: if you just twist it half-assed, it never takes off and constantly falls over. there is a certain point where you spin it fast enough and it remains upright. it's not even very fast, it's just that slower than that is no-go.
the way you've got your bike set up, it's goof-proof. you're not going to fall over because you can brace both sides with your feet and gently apply the brake to stop if you get in trouble. so use your legs and the little momentum of the hill (a flat will work ok but some downhill will help your chances) and find that speed that will keep you upright so you can coast without using your legs anymore. it's not even very fast.
then work up to where you're pushing off as hard as your legs will let you. the more speed, the more stable the bike will be, and practice gently steering. lean your body with the bike, it'll stay stable like a gyroscope. just gently steer by leaning the slightest bit, your hands and the handlebars will follow naturally. then practice intentionally steering: to go right, don't so much pull the bar with your right hand, push the bar a little with the left hand and follow through by leaning the bike right (and vice versa)

good luck
>>
>>2049745
Yes, the graphics look bad, and yes, the paint looks like strawberry banana gogurt, but this is not a helpful comment anonga. It's gonna be a downvote for me.
>>
>>2049747
>tightening your chainring bolts
not that poster, but I have a question too
shimano manual states 12-16 Nm torque for 105 crank
people online claimed it's too much, bolts will shear
I used less, about 8-9 if I remember correctly.
which is it?
>>
>>2049762
Dealers follow the manual so if that was too much, you'd have sheared off bolts everywhere.
>>
Actually you know what, fuck the mono, there being ZERO reviews on youtube that arent from sponsored youtubers really rubs me the wrong way. I just have a bad feeling.

Been looking at the Surly Bridge Club because I think it looks like a fucking tank on wheels, how is that sort of ostensibly more-expensive bike gonna feel on my back? I've recently dropped 50 pounds because i hate being a fatass, and although I enjoy seeing feet when I look down, my back is made of what seems like toothpicks and daily pain is a thing.

Need something that will ride over gravel AND shitty potholes and not fuck me up.

Also, how can I tell if a bike's gearset/derailleur will be good at climbing steep Seattle hills or not? Unrelated pic for attention
>>
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>>2049798
The bike brand/model is irrelevant to back comfort, what matters is getting a frame in the right size set up for appropriate posture. Any bike with wide enough tires will do what you want. As for gearing, I'd just make sure you get something with a 1:1 or lower gear ratio available (eg: a bike with a 32t chainring and 11-32t cassette has 1:1 as it lowest ratio).

My suggestion is to go into a local bike shop and test ride a few bikes - every major brand has something in this category that will work for you.
>>
>>2049800
thanks anime poster I like the tits on that anime girl

oddly detailed bike art as well, guy even put in the little brake wires and a rear rack and shi
>>
next month is when i purchase--i want to test ride the bridge club, the kona unit x, and there was one more i was thinking of.whatever ill watch more videos and fine it again thanks anons
>>
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new fixie rider here. my bike came with MKS sylvan touring pedals.

I wear US size 9 JPN size 27 shoes.

I bought some inexpensive straps on amazon and found them super awkward and next to impossible to get into

i ride flats at the moment but occasionally i have been in situations where i hit some rough pavement and lose my pedals for a bit...

fixie folks tell me i need foot retention is fun and safe, so maybe clips are a better choice?

There are so many fucking options for clips- deep, normal, cage, 1 strap 2 strap no strap

i have no idea what to buy.... how do you choose?
>>
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>>2049809
bike pic for reference
2010 fuji feather
58cm
>>
Looking for recommendations for an entry level mtb, sub $1000.
>>
Recently I got into cycling a lot, with me commuting to work and fitting 2014 Lapierre Raid 229 with new tires and grips and properly cleaning it for the first time (I was a stupid teenager back then). I got a little extra ~1500 € and have spent this month trying bikes at my local stores and test riding them.
First, I thought a gravel bike would be for me, since they look amazing and versatile, but after test riding it I realized I got no confidence
(I also have broad shoulders and muscular build) in drop bars and that I couldn't enjoy riding down some random forest path.
After that experience I decided to stick to MTBs since they are more versatile and fun in my eyes, I can also just fit less aggressive tires and not loose much efficiency. And my local stores have huge, like -30 to -37% sales for last year models.
Now I'm looking at Giant Fathom 1 for 1200€ and I will try Orbea Laufey H10 for 1482€ in monday and decide than (the one on sale says L is till 185cm and I'm 185 cm and my current MTB is size L).
My Lapierre is more than ridden in and it makes some sounds sometimes but I can still ride it fine. Should I rent a gravel bike and decide if that is for me and get over the drop bar discomfort?
I mostly ride not so technical terrain (but still not suitable for a gravel bike), trails, gravel paths, enjoy descents and nature and also like to take my bike for a chill ride to a pub.
What are your thoughts/advice? How much of a difference will make riding a bike with "modern geometry" and components like 1x12 and dropper posts compared to my 2014 Lapierre Raid 229 ?
>>
>>2049809
Better, stiffer straps with a metal part on the side keep their shape and make it easier to get in.
Normal clips hold the ball of your foot over the pedal spindle which is better for power delivery but worse for pulling up during a skid. Deep clips let your foot slide further forward.
Double clips hold more securely but cost more.
If you're serious about riding, take the Clipless pill and get some SPD shoes and pedals.
>>
>>2049810
>>2049809
if you need foot retention, get actual foot retention

if you want to larp as an old timey track cyclist get the rest of the outfit first

if you just want to ride around on your bike, and are scared of foot retention, don't half-ass it with a "solution" that doesn't hold your feet in when you need it, is impossible to get your feet into, and makes it harder to use the pedals
>>
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What are these pointy bits on my rack for? I only noticed them today.
>>
>>2049850
Pump pegs.
>>
Do those road bikes come with already bled hydraulic brake cables?

I noticed in videos that you need to cut them yourself, do they need to be bled with mineral oil after that?
>>
>>2049855
if you're cutting a hydraulic hose then the hose is going to be empty and will need to be bled afterwards
>>
>>2049854
Cheers. I've had my pump mounted to the seat tube like a mug this whole time.
>>
>>2049820
just to say, with your body's build, the stock drop bars were probably too narrow for you, which may explain the bad experience.
the drops should be about shoulder width at least, although how to accurately measure that is somewhat nebulous.
the specified measurement is from the center of the tubes, which makes the actual about another cm wider. also, where does the shoulder end and the arm begin?
I prefer a narrower fit, and with the bar off the bike, the tubing fits over the most bulbous center of my shoulders, not the extremes. the bar is a 38 but I wanted to try a size down but they don't really make that, so I have no idea if I'd prefer narrower because there's none to try.
I get the feeling most people prefer a wider fit but anyway if there's a store or a co-op where you can throw a bunch of bars on your shoulders and compare that general size to the bars you were riding and if it's a lot different, that may explain your bad experience with drops.

to add, the way drops are held from either side is more natural than straight-on with a flat bar. hold your arms out in front of you in a flat bar grip until you feel fatigue, then turn your wrists into a drop grip. you'll feel what I mean.
>>
>>2049860
Thanks, just what i was looking for. I talked with the the store employee and he said he can make adjustments to the hoods and bar, the one on the higher end model was almost fine but he said he needs to tune it for me.
Fuck it, I've been wishing for a fast bike for the last two months and seeing pics here of cool gravel and road bikes made me realize what i need, not another hardtail since i never ride downhill or singletrack.
After i made 50km with my MTB i got carpal tunnel like symptoms so i get you. I'm going to the store tomorrow and on an epic ride this saturday.
>>
Where’d that Viet guy go, I need my daily dose of ape
>>
>>2049823
good info, thanks!
>>2049831
well i have been riding for a few months now on flat pedals but i just keep being told "foot retention!!1" and i keep thinking i just need to find the right one and my experience will just be so much better

i rode yesterday with the straps for a few miles and honestly the only difference i noticed was it was *slightly* easier to stop with my feet, but starting and stopping took obviously more time than usual.

pulling up during pedaling for better efficiency seems like nonsense to me personally.

like, if i was riding brakeless, straps/foot retention seems more important, but i have both brakes, and i don't skid. i ride mostly flat areas and big hills i just control my speed with my feet.

the one time i lost my pedals was when i was going way faster than i should have been. i feel like if im riding in-control, i shouldnt be losing my pedals
>>
Triple chain rings. I don't understand their utility. I live in a very hilly area. Basically no flats at all. I've been riding my old man's Specialized Cirrus 3x8. If I keep it in the smallest chainring, my highest gearing feels like around 75 gear inches, and my lowest gearing feels like around 20 gear inches. So why would I ever use the bigger chain rings? To get into the 90 to 100+ gear inches range, you say? I get that. But what nardwhack needs gears that high?
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>>2049859
Now you can be extra prepared and carry two pumps!
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>>2049925
Pedal downhill you can carry the speed into the next hill then drop down to the easy gears when you lose momentum
>>
>>2049925
People with the legs to push it, and people who want to go faster downhill.
>>
>>2049925
Are you disabled or something? Even homosexuals use 44:16 gear ratio on their single-speed contraptions, which on 28" wheels would amount to 77 gear inches. Surely a healthy male can do more?
>>
>>2049925
>gears that high
90 gear inches does not equal big gears, thats medium gearing
>>
how do i remove a stuck carbon seat post on a carbon frame?
>>
Bike I bought last September got a flat. Replaced the tube, but can't get the tire to sit straight.
It was perfectly fine before, but now no matter how many times I deflate, use pic related, massage and overinflate, there's always a little bit of wobble.
What do I do? I was thinking of trying a silicone grease spray next.
>>
>>2049953
take the tyre off and check the rim tape. it might have shifted a bit and now the tyre can't settle properly
>>
>>2049953
Also check wheel for true, for damage. check spoke tension. Check tire for bead damage or serious defect.
>>
>>2049946
tried beating and pulling it nothing works
now importing a can of carbomove for 20 bucks because no stores here have it
>>
>>2049957
I'll check it out.

>>2049972
The rims and tire are fine. I checked them last week and the wheel was spinning perfectly.
>>
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struggle with the nose of my saddle digging into my balls
its a leather saddle so Iv heard you are supposed to have nose up but even at 1 or 2 degrees this happens
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>>2049266
its fine, surly bridge club also a solid choice


>>2049374
pic rel

>>2049591
alt bikers if youre ok with libtards/hippies
https://www.rivbike.com/blogs/grant-petersens-blog also PLP ect.

>>2049809
just get some spds unless youre larping

>>2049817
whatever globo name brand (trek,giant,scott) model under 1000, theyre all pretty much the same
>>
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>>2050002
Could be too wide for you, but before anything else I'd try tilting the saddle level since that's something that's standing out to you - whether you want any saddle nose up is going to depend on your hip rotation and bar height.

>>2049946
I'd start by pour boiling water on the frame to see if thermal expansion helps.
>>
>>2050017
>boiling water
google says that fucks with carbon
>>
>>2049991
If it's the same spot that's out of whack, then it's tire damage there, but possibly unimportant. Ride it for a bit.

>>2049374
Polygon is a mail order place. Good enough, but don't expect anything amazing, and be careful as some of their builds are ass.

Do you have no used marketplace? No old 90's mtbs?
>>
>>2049379
BSOs aren't even in the barrel or considered bike parts.

>>2049798
Figure out the tires you want and work backwards. That includes size and width. Make absolutely sure the geometry is matching what your riding position should be.
>>
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>>2050009
i'm larping but i just want my feet a tiny bit more secure. when im going to work or to get coffee. how about half/quarter clips or half/quarter cages?
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Would it be too stupid to use 24in rims on a 26er, then use 24 x 3 tires on the 24in rims? Assume I have disc brakes.

Goal is to have a skinnyfat bike.
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>>2050017
>Filippo "Pippa" Pozzato is an Italian former road racing cyclist, who rode professionally between 2000 and 2018 ... (Pozzato) disappeared from pro cycling in 2019 and has been rumored to be boofing large quantities of equine estrogen supplied by shady ex-USSR women's cycling coaches living in the disputed territory of Transnistria...
>>
>>2049990
>they refunded my order
man FUCK italians
guess i'll have to keep riding with my saddle slightly too low
>>
>>2050035
just get some holdfasts
>>
I'm tired of rusty bolts/washers, would replacing them all with stainless steel fasteners cause any problems? I know stainless is more brittle than grade 5 steel, but I'm unsure if that would cause any problems. Also, do you guys use power tools when working on your bikes (mostly thinking of a 1/4 inch impact driver) or just stick with hand tools?
>>
>>2050104
I looked into it out of curiosity and supposedly stainless steel is really bad for galvanic corrosion with aluminum. worse than carbon steel which is what I assume the rusty bolts are made of.
>>
Wanting to buy a hardtail and I can't decide between
>rockhopper elite 29
>giant talon 1
>trek marlin 6 gen 3
basically the $1000 or so range, just gonna be riding some dirt trails and city riding
>>
so should you lube shift/brake cables or not?
>>
>>2050121
yes
>>
>>2050089
only holdfast straps in my area are pizza/tranny flag designs and they're almost 100 bucks, went with these instead, praying they fit in my mks sylvans

https://www.aurora-collective.com/shop/pedal-straps-v2-all-white/
>>
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Which one y’all?
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>>2050140
>>
>>2050104
I would never use an impact drill on my bike, personally. I need to feel the tension. maybe that's naive but that's just what I'm used to after decades of bike wrenching. I'm quite sure an impact is massive overkill and it'd be hard to not break the bolt heads off, I think.
I use impact drills to build decks where you're driving screws down into soft wood to bury the screw heads, not for anything sensitive.
>>
>>2050106
I think titanium bolts are good for that, at least, that's what the crazy grams-shavers use. but they're $$$
>>
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>>2050120
eh, without looking them up specifically, they're probably pretty close to be the same.
as the guy explained when I bought my first bike-shop bike, the models he showed me in my price range were similar enough that just picking what color I liked best was completely valid.
I picked the brightest color since I was paranoid about cars seeing me. loved that bike.
>>
>>2050121
I do it even though they say it's unnecessary with modern housing. when I recable, I put a little grease on my thumb and forefinger and pinch the cable tightly and pull it through for just the thinnest layer. then I shoot some light oil down the housing and run the cable down it with a rag below to catch the oil that the cable may displace. modern housing has teflon or whatever but my concern is rust on the cable.
if I'm fixing an old bike and the cables are not smooth, I upend the bike and shoot penetrating oil spray down the cables and into the mechs just to get it working right to get the bike moving again. then depending on how bad it is and much I care, I may recable.
>>
>>2050141
they're both fairly cool but the Miyata has thin tires on it which probably means the frame/fork cannot accept anything bigger. therefore I'd go for the Panasonic, plus I like that style of build for a casual city bike.
but for gods sake center the seat before you ride it.
they're both around the same size, like a medium, maybe on the smaller end of medium, so be sure that's the proper size for you.
$350 for a steel 80s single speed conversion seems high to me but I haven't bought a bike since the inflation and big city markets tend to be higher. still, haggle if the Panasonic is similar price
>>
>>2050140
>>2050141
The Miyata is the much better bike of the two.
>>
>>2050152
$350 is a bit steep, but it was built up with good parts. If it's in good shape, I can see that value.
>>
>>2050121
If you're a messenger and you ride in slop every day year round and you put your bike away wet, then yeah go for it

For most people, no
>>
>>2050121
Few pointers:
Just get stainless.
Most modern housings are meant not to be lubed.
There's different styles of endcaps, some. offer very good protection.
Grease only at either end of the housing can do a great job keeping the whole thing safe, without lubing the whole thing.
Greased cable is more friction than PTFE lined outer with dry cable.
>>
>>2050140
>>2050141
350!? Well maybe thats just USA things. But in europe at least 25 is the going rate for a random shitter that just works and doesn't need immediate maintenance.
SS/Fixed on a frame with dropouts and hanger. So basically your old 10sp conversion. No idea why people still do that. If you want SS get a frame for that/and don't reward violating old bikes like that.
Also the ultimate truth about buying bicycles: You're buying a wheelset. Everything else is secondary. So make sure the wheels are at least in good condition.
>>
>>2050089
crazy, precovid i got a blem pair for 30 bucks
>>
I added 3mm of spacer and somehow it feels like my lower back is working harder, the opposite of what I expected. What's going on? Should I slam the stem?
>>
>>2050172
trreat your stem like a shitbull.

SMASHED


AND


SLAMMED
>>
>>2049369
do not lube. depending on frame and fork materials, there may be grip paste (kinda like loctite for carbon fiber). invest in a torque wrench. if you have a stand you can point the front end downward and let gravity assist the alignment. Old dude at a shop i worked at used to run twine through the wheel and around the stem, pull the string tight and it will line up the handlebars (roughly), but that only works if they are hanging as well. i usually do both and then eyeball

>>2049374
why would you ever give a singular fuck about the cheap ass stock tires that come on a cheap ass bike? You know you can change tires, right?
>>
>>2049390
fixie faggots are still a thing? wow, 2007 called and wants it's knee shredding meme back.

>>2049587
can i suck your wheel?

>>2049762
i would go with the shop manual/manufacturer specs over random Internet bullshit

>>2050104
hands and torque wrench when necessary. absolutely no power tools (this includes circumcising the steerer).
>>
i have an 08 salsa El mariachi that's set up single speed. love the bike, fits like a dream. best geo and fit I've ever had in a bike problem is the derailleur hanger is mangled and it's essentially only a single speed now. been trying to find a bike with similar geo for a geared drop bar build. crust makes one that seems to line up perfectly. I never heard of the company before. based on my research they seem like an even more 'quirky' surly. Are the frames good to go? for reference, I'm 6'5 and 280, would be riding with gear, probably mostly fire roads and double track.
>>
>>2050146
one of my main differences between the bikes i posted is shimano deores vs. cues or atx i think.
>>
>>2050188
oh and the rockhopper had rockshox judys
>>
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I never bought this brand of chink tube before does the o ring go outside the rim?
>>
Anyone taking creatine to help with bike workouts? Experiences?
>>
>>2050198
Your weakest link is very unlikely to be anaerobic and if you're marginalgainsmaxxing the extra weight is probably not what you're after
>>
>>2050196
yes, it's like the screw-on ring on normal tubes but lighter.
>>
Why is a bike fitting session so expensive? What do they do in 2.5 hours? This seems like a lot, is this a scam?
>>
>>2050210
just a guess but they have equipment that is not useful for any other purpose, taking up floor space that can't be used for anything else, and most of these guys are doing like 3-4 fits a week not 9am-5:30pm back to back bike fits, so that's what it costs to cover the overhead

I fell for the bikefit meme and while in retrospect most of the shit now seems "obvious", it could be argued that I wasn't figuring it out on my own, even by reading and watching youtube, and I learned some things about my default pedal technique that my DIY fit was basically a reaction to. my pedal stroke still needs some work but in essence it was as much a beginner's cycling coaching class as a fit session

it did not in fact solve any of the pain issues I was having, for that I ended up going to a doctor specializing in sports injuries, who prescribed some PT, and the PT was the real fix. so I was pretty salty about that for a while but over time I've softened my view of bike fitters, and I think they can be useful just keep your expectations reasonable

in short, you could view it as a scam, and there's no reason to assume you're getting anyone who knows what he's doing, and on the other hand, if it's someone who knows his shit, maybe it's worth it? maybe you'll get something out of it? I think it's best seen as a means of getting an objective third-party perspective on your setup, and the value of that person's time and access to their expensive gadgets. like it's not going to fix everything for you in one shot but you'll probably get something out of it
>>
>>2050187
I think everyone's problem with crust is that they're a ripoff, not that they aren't good.

personally I'd hire a welder to put the hanger back on. there should be a framebuilder somewhere in your region but an ordinary welding shop ought to be fine just explain how it lines up with the planes of the drivetrain. you're paying for the setting up the jig and alignment here. the welds will take all of 5 minutes
>>
>>2050211
Thanks for the good insight, really appreciate you sharing your experience
>>
>>2050210
They strap you into a bike on rollers where everything can be adjusted, dial your fit in by the millimeter using video analysis and maybe even a wind tunnel.
For competitive cyclists, it can increase their average speed a bit and diagnose issues that could lead to a sports injury down the line.
If you aren't a competitive cyclist, you're not the target demographic. If you ride enough, you'll be able to dial your fit in over time if your frame is the right size, you pay attention to what's bothering you, and watch some Youtube for the basics.
>>
>>2050222
are you being serious here? where do you live that $300 gets you an aerodynamics expert and a wind tunnel session worked into your bike fit?

I don't think it's fair to expect injury prevention or diagnosis, based on my personal experience. not in a 2 hour fit session anyway. those bespoke anatomical insights that you'll see pros getting, like vingegaard switching to an unusual crank length relative to what's popular for someone of his height, that shit comes from working with a full time support team over a season

what you're going to get is adjustments to get you close(r) to the middle of the bell curve of optimal setups as defined by one or more common fit methods (retul, guru, whatever)

the value, if you believe the hype, is that what "feels right" to you, may be simply an adaptation based on being accustomed to a setup that the standard formulas would call a bad setup. and so if you're starting from DIY, the standardized method can be helpful because most of the DIY methods involve some amount of "feels right" which can easily mislead you if your starting point is way off base

but if you started way off base, they may not even aim for the middle of the bell curve right away, they might make some incremental adjustments and then have you do a few normal-for-you rides and then come back for refinements, because a good way to injure yourself is to make a major adjustment to your configuration and then immediately go and do a century ride. you need some time for your sense of "feels right" to adjust

then when it's smack in the middle of the target, per the formula, then you're on your own and you can DIY it up from a better (supposedly) starting point. learn the rules before breaking them, or something like that.
>>
>>2050210
For how much are you willing to work an hour? Do not forget that the person also has to deduct tax and cover facilities, equipment, materials and their training. Do not forget that running a business means administrative work that the guy has to do after the session.
What you are paying for in a bike fit is your trust in the bike fitters method and understanding. Some will 100% trust the computer vision AI thing, and if you do ho there. You'll basically pay for the equipment, the cloud service and a technician. Others will insist the, had some deep and almost metaphyiscal undetstanding and if you agree with their general sentiment and reasoning etc. go there. In that case you're paying for talent.
The demand for one bike fitters and their method will of course dictate the price.
Tbh I dont understand how anyone would expect a business with facilities and at least one self employed guy, let alone even someone on payroll, to survive in the global west on anything less than those rates.
In europe if you run a businesy the banks and politicians will be all over you and if you charge 100€ an hour for anything you'll be left with 5€ at the end of the day.
>>
>>2050198
imagine voluntarily hauling all that water weight up the climb
>>
>>2050214
so not bad just overpriced?
>>
>>2050242
overpriced but there's plenty of overpriced bike stuff without an additional stigma, like most super premium tires because why not spend $45 more per wheel on a consumable part to save 3 watts and some delulu voodoo about "souplesse", or wheels manufacturing bottom brackets, because why buy a $30 bottom bracket and replace it every 20k miles when you can buy a $180 bottom bracket and pass it on to your grandkids

crust is firmly in the bucket of bike-related lifestyle accessory, in the vein of brompton, rapha, and pinarello, where most customers are assumed to have bought it for the image. there's nothing really wrong with them (except maybe the rapha core line which is indefensible garbage), some of the stuff is actually pretty great, but other people are likely to make assumptions about you, not necessarily favorable ones, whether you want to let this bother you or not is up to you
>>
>>2050214
>welder
>welding shop
bitch please. Yes you can do that, especially considering the hanger is most likely plain structural steel. But that's nasty.
Just braze it back on if it's really broken off or can't be bent back. Some 60/40 and flux and you're ready to go.
>>
>>2050198
>bike workouts
idk probably
>real workouts
yes

>>2050210
bike fits are a scam for 98% of people

>>2050187
crust is a couple dude company making non free-brochure bikes. There is nothing magical about them but they have unique geo and you have to pay for it. I wouldn't call them surly, the use much lighter tubing than the 4130 270lbs amerilard proof natch.
So yea, nice bikes but overpriced
>>
>>2048732
bought my kiddo a guardian bike that should be coming soon
i haven't ridden a bicycle in years, i sort of view it as a stepping stone to motorcycles to be honest, but we'll see how fast he gets and how quickly, i might have to get myself a bicycle to keep up with him next summer
any two wheel vehicle stirs the soul, and i'm very excited to see him get to it.
ive read a lot of complaints that it isn't durable from people who apparently are riding on trails and such but i live in and have always lived in a city and ive never ridden anything off a road so i don't think that's a big deal, if its crap they have a one year return
>>
>>2050272
They look decent enough for a 3-year-old's first bike.
>>
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I tried my hand on a rattlecan paint job for the first time. It didn't even turn out bad if you don't look too closely.
Now I'm waiting for the turquoise Specialized RockHopper decals and I can put it back together. I'm kinda hyped. What do you guys think?
>>
>>2050275
I love teal
>>
>>2050275
howd you do the splatter part?
>>
>>2050253
for those of us (most, I'd think) who are not familiar with the difference between welding and brazing, please enlighten us. what is "60/40"? what is flux?
>>
>>2050277
Balled up paper towel
>>
>>2050272
I mean, how durable does it need to be, he'll outgrow it before it falls apart. I'm against disposable culture but building a tank that a kid is incapable of destroying is going to be overbuilt and much more expensive. kids fuck bikes up.
if you have a lot of kids then it'd be worth it in the long run but someone is always going to offer a cheap underbuilt kids bike, thus making a durable one impossible to compete with in the market.
sucks but it is what it is
>>
>>2050275
the way the fades swirled together (because the first color was still wet?) is technically a mistake but it looks pretty cool though.
I just don't like teal with black, but whatever it's your bike.
>>
>>2050280
Me and my four brothers all learned on the same bicycle bought at target in the 90s, it would shock me if any better than big box store bike didn’t last through all the kids we plan to have
>>
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bros I wanna learn to bunny hop
should I start learning on my hardtail, or on my gravel bike? my gravel has clip in pedals, thinking of getting ones for my mtb and making it even easier to learn on it
>>
>>2050285
learn without clips imo or else youll crutch hard on it and you're not really doing it properly, you should be able to do it fine on a hardtail
>>
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is it fucked? small-ish sidewall puncture. tubeless. thinking about covering it with E6000 and an old tube patch and seeing what happens
>>
>>2050285
I learned it on a full on road bike in my 30s just so I could get over curbs. despite being into bikes my whole life I never had anyone to show me. in college I learned to skate a little from friends and learned to ollie, although not really reliably. then after years I finally realized I could apply that to my bike.
if I could do it, you can do it on either of your bikes.
>>
>>2050296
oh, and no foot retention
>>
>>2050295
it's not fucked at all. I don't ride tubeless but isnt that what sealant is for?
with tubes I doubt the tube would bubble out of anything that small but yeah I'd tape over it anyway
>>
>>2050298
Yeah it should but sometimes holes don't seal properly
>>
>>2050269
>non-free brochure
You have to pay for the brochure?
>unique geo
the geometry is the only reason I'm interested. A couple hundred extra is really going to break my bank. I just want that specific geo and want to make sure it won't crumple like an empty soda can. It's Reynolds 853 pro team top tube and dzb down tube, which is kinda... funky/weird. I had a lemond poprad the was 853 pro tubes (I think it was pro) so i guess i shouldn't worry. I will probably get a bottom bracket that matches my hubs and headset, like the other guy said, but that's because I'm an autistic loner with nothing better to spend my money on.
>>
>>2050285
hard tail all day. I'm honestly surprised you have a hard tail and can't bunny hop.
>pull bars up
>push bars forward
>raise feet
it's not that difficult. don't psych yourself out. you got this bro.
>>
>>2050280
>he'll outgrow it before it falls apart
Kids are worse than marines at destroying hardware
>>2050303
Probably the top tube is oval or something
>>
How do I stop being a faggot and actually be able to do no hands? It feels like my bike always wants to veer off into the nearest speeding vehicle or drainage system whenever I take my hands of the bars.
>>
>>2050319
I think the faster you are going the less balance it takes. so id practice in a large empty parking lot
also its probably easier on a mtb than road bike because of the steering geometry
>>
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Found reason for bad shifting, a slight play on my freewheel.
>>
>>2049721
ok, so it was the QR
>>
>>2050319
you need a certain speed to keep you up, like a gyroscope.
also, you don't just cautiously raise your hands, (I mean maybe at first when you're learning.) you have to straighten your whole body upward to keep your mass centered between the wheels. it doesn't work without your certain "escape velocity". its not the fastest you can go, but it's not cautiously slow. then you can straighten up and your hips feel a little forward. you know how when you're walking the bike holding the seat and you can steer the bike by leaning the seat? that's what you do riding hands free.
if you lose speed before you can get your hands on the bars, it'll wobble. or there's a thing called a "speed wobble." press your knee into the top tube and it'll stabilize.
>>
>>2050275
Post whole bike when it's done.
>>
>>2050281
No wet on wet, that's just the texture of the paper towel.

>>2050352
I will, don't worry.
>>
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I dun fucked up on my RD. Had it off the hangar to clean and get some grime out of the gaps and it went thunk.
I noticed that the tab that attaches to the hangar plate has no spring tension, but it feels like it should.
Am I just being ultra retarded? Ive taken it off before and never seen this before.
Changing the b limit doesnt fix the fact it looks super fucked.
Heres how it looks on other bikes (ignore the cabling difference)
>>
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>>2050356
The tab in question
>>
>>2050356
>>2050357
never mind I am fucking retarded. I was aligning the little knobs with the hanger tab, when it shouldve been more "tick" clockwise.
>>
>>2050358
Glad to help.
>>
>>2050359
thank you anon
>>
Hey guys, would you say a Priority Bruzer could handle the hills in Seattle/Tacoma?
>>
It’s a window shopping components I can’t afford episode
>>
>>2049648
mid drive motors get gearing advantage, so it's pretty useful for not having your motor burn out if you need to climb a big hill. This is especially useful if you live in an area where it's only class 1/250~ wattage allowed. mid drives also keep the weigh low and centered in the bike frame, keeping the balance as natural as possible. Hub motors are good if you can have stupid high wattage, but they can fuck ur dropouts.
>>
yo these schwalbe clik valves are kinda great
>>
>>2050383
>>2049648
>>2049650
>>>/o/
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I’m replacing my shock with a 7.875x2” marzocchi bomber CR
I want to use a cane creek progressive spring, what size should I use?
I’m thinking the 55mm one should be fine for a 2” shock since that’s like 2.15”?
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>>2050387
Progressive springs never made sense to me. Is the idea that you want the looser windings to really bind so your springs 'progressiveness' comes into action?
Because it escapes my understanding how a spring is going to act 'progressive' if this scenario doesn't occur. It's nothing but two springs of different rate in series. They will compress proportionally to their spring rate in reacrion to any force and behave linearly as springs are known to behave. Only when the looser spring binds up the spring rate of the pack will be equal to that of the stiffer one.
Neesless to mention: Traditionally you do not want springs to bind.
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>>2050397
I don’t know the answer to that, im just trying to replace a shock I can’t get parts for, I want the cane creek spring because it’s white, and only the progressive rate spring comes in the size range I need (at least in stock I can buy)

I think they’re manufactured in a way where they have a lot of give at first and less give towards the end of their compression? I’m not sure. This is mostly about the size than the functionality
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>>2050398
>more give first less towards the end
we do agree on what they are trying to market when they say 'progressive spring rate'
it's just that I cant see how that would play out without some windings binding
anyhooo
did you measure the part you took out? what is the rate of the spri g youre looking at, the geometry of the bike and the rider weight? You could just draw up a free body diagram, get a pretty good estimate of the static force seen by your shock and then calculate droop, anywhere between 1/3 and 1/2 i a static scenario should be fine.
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>>2050399
It’s an old manitou swinger spv 4 way from ~2008, it’s 7.875”x2”
Approximate a 50mm stroke length, so I’m just looking for something that physically fits and has similar travel length. I’m going with a heavier spring as I want something a bit more firm, so I’m thinking 55mm/650lbs
Just want to be sure I’m not about to buy outright the wrong spring
It doesn’t need to be 100% perfect as long as it’s compatible I can work from there and figure out what I prefer
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Is there a brand that makes solid riding kit (bib shorts, jerseys) that aren't either $200 race kit or $20 chinese slave labor crap? Coming from mtb when all I would ever wear was running shorts and t-shirts, road biking seems to be a black hole of $100-$300 purchases from the moment you get a bike.
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>>2050403
I was just pricing things on brand's websites and didn't realize shit was so expensive. the Pearl Izumi stuff was all $200+ except closeouts. same with other sites.
but then I looked on scamazon and there were models of Pearl not on their website (but official PI store on amazon) that were only $40.
this was just shorts, but I was surprised about that. seems the deals are on retail sites, at least for Pearl.
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>>2050292
>>2050296
>>2050305
I just spent 20 minutes and trying to manual is so scary, my seat tube got blocked by my bottle cage bolts, so i kinda pussied out
I can get my front wheel up curbs easy, but lifting rear kinda ass

gonna try again tomorrow probably, with my seat lowered
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>>2050403
Van rysel
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I wanna get a nice, classic steel frame as a commuter/day trip bike. I've been looking at old 70's road bike like Peugot but I think the wheel width is too limiting, and it's going to look like shit with pannier racks and fenders anyway.

Is touring frames the way to go? Older MTB frames? Pic related
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>>2050410
certain old mtb frames will have the clearance for 700c wheels with wider but not properly wide tires
but if its a commuter then honestly 26 inch wheels arent that big of an issue if you go old mtb
the wider tires, linear pull brakes, and steel composition meant for a bit more dampening will be better for that than a dedicated road bike
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>>2050411
probably touring but in a funny turn of events, a lot of base model road bikes allowed 32/35mm tires but the "good" bikes were only for thin tires.

the other thing about old roadies is they usually came with 144 bcd cranks, which means the smallest rings were 42t. so, even with a modern 32+t cassette/freewheel (which won't fit through the standard short cage RDs anyway) hill climbing is going to be a bitch.

tourers are supposed to have wide clearance and gearing for loaded climbs, although what it actually was I've never personally looked into.
I had to swap to a compact crank and long cage RD on my old roadie commuter to make the hills around here manageable, although it was a low end model with clearance for 32s and fenders.
if you buy something older than mid 80s you'll only get 5 speeds rear, although it'll be a steel bike so you can cold set the dropouts for wider gear clusters
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>>2050412
*probably late 80s for 6+ rear speeds, actually.
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>>2050410
The commuter bike I rode from 2012-18 was built on one of those Peugeot frames, you can fit 700x32 tires + fenders just fine if you use long reach brake calipers. That said, while these do ride quite well for being super basic, if you have other options (or unless this is a free/extremely cheap bike) I wouldn't recommend one - these are not nice frames and upgrade options are limited by the French headset (and potentially BB depending on the production year). Used bikes and frames are super cheap right now so you almost certainly can find a nicer vintage touring frame that takes cantilever brakes and proper braze-ons fittings for racks, fenders, and bottle cages if you shop around a little.
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>>2050414
Looks sick, but yeah I figured the older frames aren't really practical and since I'm compromising the ultra-sleek look with racks and fenders I'll look for something a bit more practical.
>>2050411
thanks, I'll do some research on 26 or 650b wheels and see if it'll work out. It's mostly gonna be used in the city but it's going to be hitting a few curbs here and there as well
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linked the wrong post.
>>2050412 is for >>2050410
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Got a problem with TRP HY/RD brakes. The pad wear compensation seems to be gone. I can keep on pumping and pumping and pumping and nothing happens.

I took the caliper off and cleaned the pistons: take brake pads out, manually push the lever so piston pops up, clean up dirt using brake oil, apply coat of fresh oil, push it back in. Repeat a few times for both pistons.
I also bled it: put fresh oil in, actuate multiple times to push the air bubbles out.

Yet it's still subpar.
Maybe piston seals are dirty and the pistons can't adanvce for autoadjustment?
Maybe a seal is leaky and it sucks the air in, so the whole system becomes spongy?
Maybe there's a tiny piece of dust in the reservoir and it blocks the port? I'd have to take the silver cap off and inspect it.

Currently looking for ideas.
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>>2050397
There’s three main ways to make a spring progressive
1) you can actually make it so that the single spring’s stiffness is a function of travel, so when it compresses more it is stiffer at the bottom
2) you nest sprints of different radii, the longest of which is the least stiff. When it compresses far enough to engage the next spring, they act as sprints in parallel, so are stiffer than they would be on their own.
3)you can combine springs with hydraulics, at low speeds hydraulics don’t add noticeable resistance, at high speeds they effectively function to increase speed
Obviously yes you never want anything to bind
The reason you would do this is obvious, small bumps need springs which are not so stiff, big bump needs springs which are very stiff
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>>2050421
>at high speeds they effectively function to increase stiffness
Is what I meant
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I am new to biking, I want to put together my own bike using used parts so I dont break the budget on something I'm just getting into, any guides, advice , or breakdowns you guys recommend?
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>>2050303
free as in open source frame models in taiwan

just get a SKF BB and you wont have to touch it for decades lol square taper is the best for durability, longevity, reliability and really anything that isnt a carbon bike/full sus mtb
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>>2050384
retarded jew standard when schrader does everything it does but better and already a real standard

begone shwable shill

>>2050410
you can make almost anything work, if you want something new the polyvalent from veloorange was always a fav of mine i think 300-500d frame. I use a old bridgestone MB with 26 slicks.
pic rel
>>2050428
buying a full package bike is going to be cheaper than buying a frame and buying parts, if you want a project then just look for a deece 70s/80s road bike with some good clearance or 90s ridged MTB and then just buy what you need to fix it up.
pic rel
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>>2050428
you'll pay more building a bike from parts than a buying a complete bike. this is true whether new or used.

a lot of co-ops sell complete used bikes.
otherwise craiglist/fb marketplace
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>>2050428
It’s pretty easy to do most of it, it’s a matter of knowing standards and compatibility of those standards. Start with a frame, ask people and they’ll point out what types of parts are compatible so you can search for the right stuff.
Otherwise if you’re going from the frame up, you need some hex wrenches, pliers/wire cutters, whatever tool is for your chosen bottom bracket, a cassette tool for your chosen cassette, and a chain cutting tool at minimum.
Most other stuff you can bullshit, you can knock in headset cups with a hammer and a block of wood, or just the block of wood, it’s just slow and you gotta be sure to keep it aligned as you go.
But otherwise none of it is super hard or mechanically challenging, stuff like hydraulic disc brakes if you have to cut hoses and press barbs and bleed them and such you’ll want to get more involved with that in terms of educating yourself on how, and you’ll want the tools for it.

The difficult part is like, knowing axel standards and differences, headset types, how to set up a derailleur, bottom bracket standards, etc. So you don’t end up buying the wrong parts that aren’t compatible.
Most torque specs are “until it feels firm enough” never “crank it until it can’t move anymore”, that crushes tubes and fatigues metal.

Post a frame or frame set you are looking at and I’ll happily tell you what the standards for it are and what types of parts and tools you’ll need.

Local bike shops can also do part installs for fairly cheap, most items aren’t actually that much shop labor on bikes. Especially for normal shit.
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>>2050428
Oh, the other point made as well by two other anons. That’s probably not going to be cheaper. I recommend just buying a used bike in the class of bike you want.
A name brand mainstream trail hardtail loses half its value after someone buys it, you can probably snag a reasonably priced Craigslist bike in your area and just change components as you find things you’d rather try instead.
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>>2050410
buy a newer touring bike but decide if you really want a touring bike first as they are stiff and dont ride nice

there are dozens of nice commuter/audax frames from the late 2000s-early 2010s that you could buy instead of wasting money on polishing a turd
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>>2050410
23mm is all you need
anything more than that is for limpwristed faggots
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>>2050439
so, the entire pro tour are all limpwristed faggots?
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>>2050423
What don’t you get?
Drag increases exponentially with velocity, so slow bumps have little drag and don’t damp much, but fast bumps will damp much more
Again tho, you can have purely mechanical progressive springs, you don’t even need springs plural, you can do it with one spring
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>>2050428
Other anons are 100% right that you should just look for a used bike online or in a bike shop, tons of people have shockingly nice bikes collecting dust that they will sell you for a fraction of retail. I got my bike, a Canyon CF SL 8 (carbon frame/fork, full Ultegra) for $1000.
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Wife found free bike. I'm not a cyclist, but I am curious about what it is. Any guesses? All I know is it's a Raleigh, currently has 700x35 tires, and says "MID 5'5-5'7" on it.
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>>2050447
some random raleigh hyrbid, looks fine, just get a better seat or dont, also gripshift is ass. Id replace with friction
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>>2050448
What is gripshift and why is it ass? What's benefit of friction? Idk how to go about replacing things on a mystery bike. Was gonna take it to local cycle shop on Tuesday but feel like I'm gonna get upsold dumb shit she doesn't need.
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Freds, help me plox. I need to rent a couple of road bikes a mountain ride in the near future. There are a few options available to me. I kind of want to ride a high end sanic bike in the vein of an Addict RC20 because I've never been on something quite as all-out race-ist as that, but I'm used to an allroad-style boomer barge. It's going to be about 60 miles total, with about 10k feet of vertical give or take. Maybe 5-6% but with some segments as high as 11%. Am I going to want to kms after 20 miles if I get on this thing? I really really wanna try it but I also don't want to ruin my trip.

My riding companion is in pretty decent cardio shape but doesn't do clipless and isn't really much of a roadie. They can definitely wrangle bikes because I put them on my boomer barge at one point and they PR'd my strava route without even trying. But no clipless, so, I don't know what to do with that, rec wise. If I put them on the same style bike, like an RC20, that's a really bad idea right? But I want to make sure they're not disadvantaged. Should I stick 'em on an allroad/endurance frame if they're doing flat pedals? I could get them an ebike but they will probably perceive it as a personal slight.

Pic definitely not related.
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>>2050456
You'll be in for lower back pain if you hop straight into a challenging ride on a bike with longer reach and lower bars than you have the flexibility and core strength to ride comfortably. And probably not an issue if the rental company is smart, but keep in mind that endurance bikes usually come with lower low gears than racing bikes, so if you're not fit enough to do a big climbing ride on your personal bike you might be in for a bad time.

As for what your companion wants, ask them. If they really don't know, err on the side of putting them on a bike that puts them in a more upright position. Also, 10k of climbing over 60 miles is no joke. If this person isn't a strong road cyclist you might want to reconsider your choice of routes to do something they'll actually enjoy.

>>2050449
>>2050447
Not that anon but Gripshift has the disadvantage of being relatively easy to miss-shift (when riding rough trails) and really cheap twist shifters are prone to breaking or just being very difficult to actuate if the shift cable isn't moving freely. The ones on this bike aren't that bad though and for casual use they'll be fine.
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whats a good way to figure out a good seat to swap with my current one? Hurts like hell to ride on after awhile and I've found standing on the petals is a "comfier" exprience
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>>2050463
The best way is to connect with people locally. Often times there already is some sort of an existing 'saddle library'. If not pitch the idea:
Everyone and their mom has a hand full of saddles they didnt end up liking, or just spares. A saddle library is a (virtual) place where you can lend a saddle to try out its basic shape and amount on padding to understand what you like and not like.
Don't get fooled by the seatbone width fiend: They are terminally online, never ride and only read up on theoretical knowledge which they then repeat in some sort of weird act of self glorification online. Ironically demonstrating that they have no idea how you even sit on a bike saddle.
>inb4 iShIaL TuBeRoSiTaEa
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>>2050447
gripshift! Very nice! Guess the nigger who dailies a gripshift but has all sorts of other types of indexed and non indexed shifters on fhe other pleasure and racing bikes!
You just set it up once and it works, never misses a beat, never got to fiddle with it, never lets you down.
Also avoid falling for people trying to delude you into making changes to a working system. Especially before you even had your fair share of experience using it. Ride that thing as it is for a year / 20k km and then report back.
When things break or need replacing is the best time to think wether you have been satisfied with what you had so far or it needs changing.
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>>2050463
Put a piece of thick cardboard on a chair, sit on it, raise your legs and push down until you "crush" it.
It should show two dimples where your seatbones are. Measure the distance between them, that's your seatbone width. Add 20mm, that's your rule of thumb saddle width. Choose a saddle that fits your style of riding from a manufacturer that actually states their saddle widths. Don't fall for the cushioning meme unless you're riding an upright cruiser at slow speed.
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>>2050462
>You'll be in for lower back pain if you hop straight into a challenging ride on a bike with longer reach and lower bars than you have the flexibility and core strength to ride comfortably.
I mean yeah, that's the chatGPT answer of course, but I don't think it's quite that simple. I've had times when lowering my bars reduced my discomfort back there, and I've had times when raising my bars increased it. So I know there's more to it than just "lower bars more pain".

Anyway the 10k is not spread out evenly over the whole 60 miles, so I'm less concerned about my riding companion who is already somewhat altitude adjusted and does a lot of running, and more concerned about myself since I'm coming from sea level and all I ever do is ride a bike. And it's been so hot here for the last month I've barely even gotten out of zone 2 until last week.
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>>2050470
LIKE CLOCKWORK! Told you.
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I'm looking to buy an indoor trainer for the Canadian winter, what are some good ones without spending too much, maybe under $1000 CAD?
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What's the point of building your own wheels? Seems to be a non-trivial investment in both gear and time but I don't really understand the tangible benefits. Just a smoother ride generally? Or more just fun to do?
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>>2050479
Partly it's fun to do. Also you get to have things that you cant buy. I would say it's an added benefit to develop skill, understanding and confidence when it comes to fixing your wheel in a pinch. You just learn how much a taco you can just bend back out over the knee, which nipple needs hoe much for it to spring back and most importantly when to stop.
But economically or performance wise:
No. You will not make a top tier wheel at home for the same price. You will also not make a better wheel at home than a top of the line wheel. Don't forget that the engineers at big wheel have basically unlimited funds for trying out shit and testing it. Meanwhile you make am estimate guess and your testing is a sample size of 1.
I also believe sometimes you just need to try something on your test rig to understand WHY we do things differently.
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>>2049266
Anyone got experience with Radon Regard bikes?
Seem good spec wise (and very similar to Cube NuRoad), but I've heard mixed opinions on their quality.
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>>2050468
This person is kind of right except that "the best way to connect with people" is racist against the race of autists who can't talk to people, but otherwise yes. The "muh seat bone width" meme is a red flag that someone has no idea what they're talking about
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>>2050468
>>2050482
why is measuring sitbone width bad?
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>>2050484
I never said it's bad. But its pointless when you want to determine what saddle you want to be on.
Firyt of thete is not even any logic behind it. You do NOT 'sit' on your ishial tuberositaea when cycling, which everyone who ever cycled has experienced. In fact just imagining doing that feels stupid and painfull. You sit on your pubic and ishial rami. But I had that discussion on this shit board filled with fuckwits.
But for the sake of discussion let's pretend you actually sat on your ishial tuberositaea. Their width would still be relatively inconsequential. Like yeah if your saddle more or less correlates with their width then that means you can sit on it. Which is why bo one makes saddles that are 20mm wide, or 700mm wide. WOW. Beyond that even the correct width would have much more to do with the shape of your pelvis and femur and your soft tissue etc etc, let alone the correct shape.
You could just choose the right width and find it irritates the fuck out of your medial ligaments of the hip becauae the shape is wrong. The shape most likely has far greater impact than the width but they go hand in hand. You could probably, in some cases, compensate a bit with one for the other. But generally you want to get the shaoe right. The width is oh well... most come in ±20mm anyways so it's not even like you had much to choose from.
I tend to need extremely narrow saddles with sides sloping down strongly and this seemingly modern trend of flat T-shaped saddles makes me feel like I'm the only one like that.
An old flite is worst I'd go in that direction. Kashimax, rolls, turbo, fly... that's where I'm at home.
Width? Narrow please but idk too much.
The width of my sitbones? Nothing to do with it.
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>>2050484
Because you're going to get a significantly different measure depending on how much you arch your back and how hard you bear down on the surface not to mention are you wearing a chamois or not. And how does that translate to your "width" when you're on the actual bike? Do you even know? When they measure your ass in a bike fit studio they don't make you take your bibs off. When people DIY it they're maybe doing it in boxer shorts, maybe in bibs, who knows? Nobody tells you what to wear, or sometimes they do and it's a different set of instructions depending on who is giving the instructions, yet we're expected to believe that measurements down to the nearest mm, generated through a completely chaotic process of measuring a 3d object in 1 dimension, are actually providing you meaningful, actionable information.

It's all voodoo, people crave a number because there's an expectation that you can plug this information into a spreadsheet, and the correct answer is "no, wrong approach", but that's not the answer most freds want to hear. So fitters and saddle manufacturers and /r/cycling/ mods with over 500k karma just repeat the sitbone meme like their life depends on it.
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>>2050463
>petals
don't stand on the flowers, asshole
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>>2050479
you already have the stand because you true your own wheels instead of pay the shop.
cracked a rim? you can rebuild the hub and it's cheaper than buying new.
pretty much any wheel is cheaper to build than buy. the labor cost is expensive.
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>>2050477
wow dude you're so intelligent
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>>2050485
ok, so your the one-in-fifty outlier who needs something different.
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>>2050480
>>2050489
I've actually never had a wheel issue but yeah if it actually breaks I see the point (or for funsies ofc)
Actually I need to true my wheels but I'm just going to wing it with some zipties for now
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>>2050494
>never had a wheel issue
well go out and ride some
when the cager hits you or you get drunk and try funny stuff with your mates you'll likely end up with a funky wheel and some types really think its either trash when its taco or they could unironically manipulate spokes until its straightish, only to start breaking spokes a few k later.
They'll be surprised when they learn you just bend the rim back and only fix the last half mm with a spoke key.
>>2050492
No. That's not the case and also you didn't even get the point. There is much more to a saddle than width. Do you think saddles on offer vary as much because of aesthetic only and also the often offered 2 widths cover everyone? Think again. Manufacturers probably came up with the whole ischial tuberositaea and width shit because that's an easy way to sell stuff to new players.
>>2050490
Finally someone gets it.
>>2050489
Nah. Modern whes are machine built and if it's higher tier theres a technician that looks over it and tweaks one or two nipples but that guy is lightning fast. Many wheels on offer are far cheaper than what you'd pay if you bought all components and assembled them. It's not the 80s anymore.
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>>2050498
>That's not the case and also you didn't even get the point
I think the point is that you railing against the only data that can help someone pick something reasonably in the ballpark of what they need by writing multiple, massive walls of text makes you feel important.
noobs just buy massive overpadded office chair things, or they buy freddy cool looking expensive tiny triathlon things until you point out that there's reasons to buy something that actually could work better. trying different stuff is the only way to get there but the sitbone thing gets them closer than dumb luck.
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>>2050501
>measure sitbone
>choose random saddle based on dumb luck
>but choose the narrower or wider version based on your sitbone measurement
>don't ever actually sit on said sitbones
cLoSe EnOuGh
Well you do you.
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>>2050503
>don't ever actually sit on said sitbones
yes, I am.
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>>2050504
to add, this is a Charge Spoon 143mm and my sitbones are just over 100mm, and gee, whaddya know, that's what this BG chart says is right since I ride in the middle position
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>>2050504
Like so?
KEK.
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>>2050485
>>2050486
so, sitbone with bad. got it.
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>>2050510
width*, jfc
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>>2050509
that's the upright position, not the middle choice. my bars are several inches lower than my seat, but nice try.
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>>2050479
mandatory if you're a 26 inch enjoyer and want nice wheels
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>>2050530
Why do wheelbuilder guys always have a hardon for these antiques that nobody has anymore? It confirms my belief that wheel building subculture is really just a kind of hipsterism, like pretending to like vinyl records or chartreuse liqueur. If it was accessible and common, it wouldn't be cool and no one would want to do it.
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>>2050532
they dont make nice riding, high performance rims and hubs for these anymore
working on your wheels is like wrenching your car, just basic shit
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Will something like this Electra leave me spectacularly disappointed? Right now I commute 365 by scooter (the ICE kind), but my new job is only a couple miles away so I want to switch over to bicycling, I feel like such an ass getting on my scooter for less than five minutes at a stretch. Literally 2.5 miles (4km more or less exactly).
I’ve read some people saying disc brakes are more important if you’re somewhere with snow or rain and I’m in Pennsylvania, but seems to me people commuted just fine by bicycle before they had disc brakes no? Rain isn’t new
Brakes, fenders, a few gears, not sure what else I’d want.
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>>2050541
>. Literally 2.5 miles
for this, it's completely fine. if you want to start going further than, say, 10-15 miles at a time, you may begin to feel limited. but maybe not.
if in the future if you decide you like going fast, or ridiculously far, or gnarly offroad, you would want to explore other bikes. although some hard dirt, turf, and gravel will be fine on that.

>but seems to me people commuted just fine by bicycle before they had disc brakes no? Rain isn’t new.
of course you're right but you're unwittingly trying to start an Internet fight. riding rim in wet forces you to git gud, but it's not dangerous, which I know because I've been commuting on and off since 1990 and never had a disc bike.
for the record, there's nothing wrong with disc if you prefer them, but imo they're only necessary for what they were invented for: muddy off-road and creeks and stuff.

if you're in the mountainous part of PA, the stock gearing may be limiting on climbs but changing the gearing can happen, although sometimes this means changing the whole crank or the derailleur.
the stock gears look reasonably low, though (good)
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>>2050543
Don’t mean to start an argument, just there’s a lot of diminishing returns in some of my other hobbies, and I’m trying to avoid that
Sounds like I won’t be disappointed, my city is fairly hilly (Bethlehem) but my particular commute is pretty flat, Google says “mostly flat”, only 90’ total change
Thanks for the reply
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>>2050510
No that's bot what I said. It's highly likely that there is an actual cordelation between that and the width you want. But it is likely a minor factor and entices young players to ommit the actually important factors, like literall, the shape of saddle that most suits them, which has far greater impact.
This is so typical for this board. Someone says something. The next guy parrots marketeers or GCN (more marketeers). Also false arguments >>2050484
, like trying to imply someone sayd 'X bad, Y U say X bad, X no bad' when that's never been the case. It goes the usual way from there. Pointless.
Anyways if anyone just wants to spend money and avoid people >>2050482 just sit on cardboard, order stuff online Nd ha e it delivered, delude yourself into believing a certain degree of tailbone, hips and back pain is normal but also continue buying more saddles until, ou found yomething you can live with. Not my problem.
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>>2050547
a worthwhile, cheap upgrade would be koolstop salmon brake pads which are going to be the best in wet. but ride the stock pads a while, if they aren't a problem then don't worry about it.
>>
>>2050469
>Also avoid falling for people trying to delude you into making changes to a working system. Especially before you even had your fair share of experience using it. Ride that thing as it is for a year / 20k km and then report back.
Oh for sure man. Was just curious of the term, but looked into it more and lel no fucking way she'd need the extra stuff. This is more for getting around town/going to work than being sporty and elite.
>>
>>2050417
leddit says purging solved their problem. could also be the actuation arm being off.

https://youtu.be/BcZKtFI8Els?t=383

Now I'm scared to service my calipers.
>>
>>2050417
>mech hydro dicks
worst of the worst of both worlds
>>
Are black pedals on a silver crank haram? Early 00s 520 in forest green with a lot of black parts but the brakes/cranks are Campy Centaur in silver
>>
>>2050614
depends
>>
Are endurance bikes a meme? Unsure I want to spend the money on a fast af (and uncomfortable) road bike so looking into getting a Canyon Endurace for long rides.
>>
>>2050614
if they are metal they wont stay black for long
>>
>>2050641
Unless you're actually racing, endurance bikes are awesome. And the Canyon is a very good one.
>>
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>>2050641
Get the new Synapse if you want a fast/fast looking road bike without the cramped-ness of a full on race bike
>>
>>2050641
Comfort has a lot of dimensions, if you're riding hard, even an aggressive road bike can still be quite comfortable because your entire body is engaged the majority of the time, thus distributing loads much better, but if you're just cruising, it's going to suck because your body will be loose except for a couple of stress points that will be doing all the work. In fact if you're just cruising, even an endurance road bike is far from ideal and you may be happier on a gravel bike

>>2050647
The synapse has a lower stack for the same reach as the enurace, so, you're going in the wrong direction for your advice
>>
>>2050648
He said he wants to spend money on a fast bike, but not as uncomfortable as a fast bike. I gave another option. fuck off back to plebbit with your gravel meme bike
>>
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>>2050650
Canyon Endurace is not a gravel bike
>>
>destroys your favourite trousers at the inner thighs
What do?
>>
>>2050652
why the hell would you ride that meme thing in the first place?
a functional bike saddle and a fucking office chair are completely different things
>>
>>2050654
Its not mine, just meant to represent the average city bike saddle (destroyer of pants). What represents a"functional bike saddle" in your opinion?
>>
>>2050680
>>
>>2050652
my old saddle which had a kinda rough surface used to leave marks when i swapped to one with a shiny smooth surface it stopped happening
>>
>>2050680
one that fits you and supports your weight instead of sinking down into it like a sofa.
see the sitbone debate upthread
>>
>>2050680
the destroyer of pants is the motion. Thats it. The saddle doesn't put those two holes, left and right of the center seam in the crotch area in there. It's the fabric working and tireing.
>>
>>2050709
I know. But i still blame the saddle. I really liked those trousers anon. Bow I'm just wearing old baggy stuff when I bike. But that means I don't wear any of my good pants anymore because I bike everywhere.
>>
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So why does this bike have eyelets here, but not further up on the tube ? can you attach a rack with only these eyelets by the hub?
>>
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>>2050728
The rack attaches to the brake bridge. I imagine on old mass produced bikes they made the racks to fit the frame. I wouldn’t bother trying to find one, just use P-clips and any modern rack.
>>
>>2050728
they're for fenders
>>
>>2050715
find more durable pants. use a saddle with a smooth surface. maybe even try a rain cover that will move with the pants to avoid some friction
>>
>>2050715
I went through this grief cycle a few times until I realized I could just wear cycling clothes, save money, and be more comfortable. it upsets unracers but that's a feature not a bug
>>
what kind of bike grips should I get? what should I pay attention to?
the bike grips on my MTB are almost completely ripped and loose and I need to replace them
>>
>>2050736
rent free
>>
>>2050738
I currently have a cheap pair of Ergon knockoffs and man I wish I'd always had them
>>
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>>2050736
Wearing lycra is just shyly hinting at being a faggot. Just dispense with the pants and be yourself, we're all cyclists here.
>>
>>2049374
oh man almost bought this one few years ago still can't get over how ugly the joints at the headtube or w/e is and the fork too but the tire width and gear ratio was just adequate for me
it was either this or the beautiful white aesthetic but more expensive giant escape
>>
>bike saddle starts smelling bad
>wiping down with a wet towel makes it go away for it a bit then it starts smelling bad again after 20 minutes of riding

Can I even deep-wash the thin layer of padding below the saddle surface? Should I just get a new saddle?
>>
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>>2050762
probably soak it in a bucket of water with some sort of laundry sanitizer
idk what would be safe for the saddle material but if you are down to replace it id be willing to try bleach first. or pic related
>>
>>2050763
This. Anti-bacterial detergent should help.
>>
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need a bottle for my bike
do i get the super loli or should i get something more expensive?
>>
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>>2050651
>and you may be happier on a gravel bike
yes youre the one talking about gravel meme bikes. How dense are you
>>
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I bought a carbon fibre bike that I'd like to use as a commuter but it has no pannier rack mounts.
All the ones that clamp to the seat stays all say NOT FOR CARBON FIBRE BIKES. How bad is it really? Do I need to sell and go back to Aluminium?
Pic unrelated. My old commuter.
>>
>>2050816
I described three styles of frame. You seem really insecure.

>>2050825
You need a rack that is specifically designed for a carbon frame. They exist
>>
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>>2050825
Get one that mounts to axle
>>
My rear derailleur rides up too close to the largest gear on the cassette, as far as I can tell. I can't figure out how to change that. Second pic coming right up...
>>
>>2050838
These are all the settings screws I can see. I see the top and bottom stop, and the third one moves the derailleur clockwise around the shifter eye, but it's already in all the way. If I turn it out, the derailleur move even further up towards the cassette.
>>
>>2050839
>>2050838
Chain might be too long. Try pinching it and see if it gives more clearance
>>
>>2050840
Ohh, you might be right. That does look better. I'll take a couple of links out and report back...
>>
>>2050841
Do you have a single front chainring?
>>
>>2050842
No, it's a 3x7. The chain was on the smallest front ring when I took the picture. I shortened it so the derailleur now has just enough clearance, thank you.
>>
>>2050843
Nevermind, it moved back enough so that the small cogs almost touch the cassette and you can hear it.
The B-screw doesn't seem to do much, could it be that the spring in the part that screws to the shifter eye is too worn out?
>>
>>2050851
Can you loosen the deraileur and swing it back?
>>
>>2050851
you can get a longer B screw, or you can do the hack where you take it out completely and screw it into the opposite end so the head is where the end used to be. then you can make it as long as you need .
it also could be friction on the mounting bolt like anon says. I've made a bushing for it out of thin plastic when the factory thing wore out.
>>
>>2050860
Yes
>>
>>2050862
I tried a longer screw, but there's a hard limit to how far I can screw it in, because at some point it slips by the nose there.
And the wheels still haven't moved a bit further down.
>>
>>2050865
can't visualize that but what about flipping the screw around as per my previous post?
>>
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>>2050865
so whats the problem? does the chain skip? its normal that it makes noise in the biggest gear
most derailleurs want a 6mm gap
>>
>>2050865
sorry, just to ask: is the b screw engaging with the little tab on the hanger?
>>
>>2050763
>>2050774
Thanks. I removed the saddle and will try cleaning with a sanitizer.
>>
>>2050867
The roller touches the largest gear and you hear it. It does shift, though. But it wouldn't be that close.
>>
>>2050870
oh
yeah i think youre sol on that one
get a smaller cassette or maybe try bending the tab that holds the screw
>>
>>2050866
Won't work. Like I said, at some point the screw will be almost parallel to the nose on the hanger and skips off it. You can see the most I can get out of it on the picture I posted.
>>
>>2050868
Yes, see >>2050865
>>
>>2050871
Damn, I bought that thing as refurbished and in good condition...
Guess I'll take the derailleur off my wife's bike until I can source another one.
>>
>>2050872
so bend the screw holder so the screw continues to press the hanger tab?
>>
>>2050877
The derailleur didn't move a millimeter when I turned the screw that far, I don't think much is going to happen. I wonder what's wrong with it.
>>
>>2050839
"The third one" is called the B-screw (body angle). Yours is not original. How long is it? On my STX mechs (with most likely original screws) the threaded part is 12mm long.
>>
>>2050541
Turns out my mother in law had an Electra royal with a hub in it, she gave my to me for free since she never rode it
It was sitting for about a decade in her garage she said but I guess she had oiled it so no rust
I aired up the tires and seems like it works fine
Has a basket on it etc
I’ll post pictures next thread
>>
>>2050928
I tried very long ones (like 30mm), didn't help. The derailleur body won't move backwards. I think the coil spring inside might be worn out.
>>
I found an XT derailleur. This one goes into the parts bin.
>>
>>2050958
Not sure how I’m gonna get this thing home, with all my kids car seats it doesn’t fit in my wife’s minivan, I might have to come back and rig it strapped to my motorcycle
>>
>>2050966
why don't you just ride it home, retard
>>
>>2050972
Because it’s in queens New York and I live in Bethlehem PA, just seems like a lot for me, maybe you can do that no problem
>>
>>2050973
Talked my brother who lives in queens into driving it over to me, thanks for reading my blog. What do I have to do to it? I assume it’ll need new tires at least if they’re a decade old
>>
should i be able to shift from the drops?
>>
>>2050986
>What do I have to do to it?
set correct seat height
raise stem to around the same height while still a noob
check if rims are true
do brakes work ?
does it shift?
cables move freely through housing ?

>I assume it’ll need new tires at least if they’re a decade old
depends. inflate, make sure the tubes hold air. if not, patch them. you need to learn how and it's cheap. check the tire sidewalls for dry rot, check for deep cracks in the rubber. if they'll hold the max pressure listed on them and the tube isn't blistering out anywhere you're good.
use the silca online calculator or similar to see what pressure you should actually use.
>>
>>2050988
yeah i can
depends how big your hands are
>>
>>2050988
with my setup, I can shift from the hooks (I assume that's what you mean.)
I have to reach a bit with my fingers but it's easier to do that than move my grip. my fingers are pretty long but I feel like a normal size could reach it
>>
>>2050986
>What do I have to do to it?
dunno, post it when you get it
>>
>>2051018
thanks yeah I was talking about the hooks. I can just barely click the inner lever. but have to climb onto the hoods to push the main lever. gonna try adjusting things.
>>
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>>2051019
>>2050992
Seems like the gears and brakes work fine, there’s something rubbing somewhere in the rear to track down, there’s tires are holding air for now.
I adjusted the seat as shown in the diagram.
There are wheel angles that hit my toe on little tight turns, but I think it’s just geometrically how the bike works.
Here’s a picture, thanks for the help, please excuse the mess and the phone posting, i need to find somewhere to put it besides the mudroom you can see there’s not much space
>>
>>2051028
I also have a basket it came with that I had to take off to get it into my brothers car, so I have to strap the basket back on as well, it was just zip tied
>>
>>2051028
ok but we meant post a picture so we can see the whole bike and components preferably from the drive side.
but anyway it looks fine. the decals on the seat tube look cool
>>
>>2051028
hard to see but whoever set up the cables just used the entire length instead of sizing them, it looks like.
it's not the end of the world but it makes the cables sluggish and that affects performance. if it's an issue for you it's not a hard fix. it also looks terrible.
>>
>>2051031
Okay, I will post more detailed pictures when I am able, thanks. I wasn’t really clear on what you would have wanted to see and I’m very new to bicycles so it isn’t obvious to me.

>>2051033
That would be wherever my MIL bought this, I doubt she set it up herself, she isn’t exactly handy. Is shortening cables as simple as pulling them through and cutting the housing?
>>
>>2051028
>hit my toe on little tight turns
try putting the balls of your feet over the center of the pedal where the spindle is. this may help and it's considered by most riders to be proper for power transfer. not everyone, though.
this is assuming you aren't already riding like that.
>>
>>2051036
I was not, I had the center of my foot where you’re describing
>>
>>2051035
>as simple as pulling them through and cutting the housing
yes, but cutting the housing is a little tricky. they make a special tool but I use end nippers then poke an awl in to round it open. you can use a cutting tool on a Dremel or grinder.
the hard part isn't cutting them, it's hooking the cable back up to the brakes and derailleurs correctly, which is not obvious if you've never done it but the Park tool link will show you how. I think your gears are in the hub aka an IGH? never done one but again, Park.
when trimming make sure there's just enough slack to turn the bars fully both ways. trim the housing, run the cable through, rebolt it and THEN trim the cable with a couple extra inches.
>>
>>2051037
eh, it could help with the clearance. I was taught to do it that way and using the center feels super awkward to me but some anon says people who studied it said the power transfers fine from the middle. I don't see it, personally, and every cycling shoe ever sold puts your foot with the balls over the spindle.
>>
>>2051038
Okay great I’ll check that link out, thank you for the advice, I have another child due to be born next month so I’ll have some time to do things while I’m taking family leave from work

>>2051039
I haven’t bicycled since I was a kid really, so I’ll try it out your way also.
Very much appreciating all the help here anons, thanks a lot
>>
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>>2051031
Here is a better photo
I think you wanted the other side but it’s all covered on that side with a big chain guard
>>
>>2051044
we don't see many like this here but for your use case it's pretty perfect.
it is even less sporty than the one you posted initially way upthread, but for your commute that doesn't matter. this one is a semi-recumbent frame, meaning the crank is set forward from the seat tube. with its upright position, your body kicks forward somewhat and your arms pull back against the swept back bars and it maximizes upright comfort.
which is all diametrically opposed to any performance considerations. you could try moving the saddle forward for some little bit of aggressive stance, but if it feels too weird, I wouldn't.
>>
>>2051050
>it maximizes upright comfort
Yes it certainly does, I did a dry run to the office and back and it was very pleasant, today is gorgeous too so that helps
I tried it on the way back with the balls of my feet and I felt that was perfectly comfortable and my toes never hit the wheels so I’ll just do that. The handlebars hit my knees a bit but it looks like there’s a nut that I imagine I can use to adjust them up, so I will do that as well tomorrow. It was covered with a little plastic piece so I didn’t notice it initially.
>>
my road bike has split housing for brake and shift cables. when I change them should i run a single housing or just do the split housing like how it came? or is split better?
>>
>>2051051
the plastic is to keep rain out of the hole so it doesn't rust.
I'm glad it's working out for you, that's cool
>>
>>2051052
>single housing
What?
>>
Can I replace my brake pads with heat sinks with cheaper pads without heat sinks, or would that be a bad idea?
I'm not racing or doing very long descents so I don't expect that would cause any issues with over heating. Right?
>>
>>2050988
With modern brifters where you shift moving the levers laterally, yes.
>>
>>2051073
yeah I don't like the heat sink pads because they rattle
Also use sintered metal pads
>>
>>2050738
Grips are all personal preference. Personally I like these foam grips on my mtb.
>>
>>2051052
If your cables are on the downtube you'd lose the adjuster and have to find some way of keeping under the bottom bracket
>>
>>2050479
>a non-trivial investment in both gear and time
This is the point. Just for fun and satisfaction of having built your own wheel, and the skills it teaches you to maintain your shit.
>>
>>2051075
>use sintered metal
No, I'm gonna go with resin.
>>
>>2051076
I have these and they are supremely comfy, but start cracking and wearing way too quickly.
>>
>>2051085
>start cracking and wearing way too quickly
Not in my experience. The worst that's happened to mine is that the red ones look dirty from riding with my black leather winter gloves.
>>
I keep trying to make a new thread but it just gives me infinite cooldowns with an occasional captcha then back to cooldowns. tried submitting a bug report even.
I can post on all boards with no cooldowns, though.
anyway, I've literally been trying for 3 days, I think someone else is going to have to bake
>>
>>2051106
Done >>2051108
>>
Been riding a cheap bike for years, finally had the front tire bend/warp while shitfaced. Looking to get a new bike, just wanted to ask some basic shit since I find Google and Youtube are increasingly useless:
>gears
What are they really for? My now defunct bike had a left toggle going from 1 to 3, while the right side had a toggle from 1 to 7. Fiddling around with either made the pedals easier or harder to use, impacting how much power I put into each rotation and making the ride slower or quicker depending on terrain. Just haven't put it all together.
>bike
Any reccs for a cheap bike that'll do on gravel/dirt as much as the city? I'm not even close to being a "serious" bike guy, just like to do 4-6 mile round trips after work to decompress. Seems like the cheapest stuff at my nearby bike shop is 700, so I'm setting the budget at 800 (optimistically).
>winter tires
I've dreamt of being able to skid through light winter weather on a bike and not having to see a single person on our local trail system. The local bike shop guy tells me this can be done with certain tires, but he hasn't tried them so details were few.
>fitness
Being fat, I'm curious if anyone has a decent routine they'd share for starters. Last summer I felt proud I could roll around in the heat for an 8 mile trip, some elevation changes here and there; currently building up that stamina at a snails pace, but I can do a 4 mile round trip without taking breaks.
>seats
I don't get sore much after a long ride, but my balls/prostate definitely feel uncomfortable/numb at times. Anything to mitigate this?
>>
>>2050738
ergon biocork with dildos for endurance/xc/bike backing, lizard skin northshore or oury for everything else.
>>
>>2050869
floridaman here. I sweat a lot. aggressively malodorous baked in extra funky swamp ass stank is unavoidable. I started using enzymatic detergent, the stuff they use to remove cat piss aroma from carpets and stuff. works great.
>>
>>2049205
>>2049293
Hehe
Why is that kitty on the bike?



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