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File: ram.jpg (2.31 MB, 3000x2253)
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Is this rust bucket worth $2500?
See pic related, it has a lot of body rust, frame rails look good.
I need a beater truck that I will occasionally use for hauling shit, $2500 is a nice price.
I want to learn welding and I think this would be a good project to patch up.
>>
I'd nope the fuck out of there.

T. High desert zero rust guy.
>>
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>>28611526
>it's real
>>
Try $500
>>
I did more looking at it.
Issues
Tires are shot
Brakes are shot. Caliper pins look seized
Gas tank held by ratchet strap, new gas straps inside.
Muffler missing, rusted off last the resonator
Inside is very clean
160k miles
New battery
Engine bay is clean besides a valve cover leaking on right bank

What do you all think?
>>
>>28611573
I won't find anything cheaper. I will literally put 500 miles on it per year
>>
>>28611592
I will definitely haggle. It's been sitting there for like 2 months
>>
Lots of it is surface rust. I got no problems putting cash into it replacing shit with Amazon special or junkyard parts.

Biggest issue I see are the brakes and tires. Those will need to be fixed right away
>>
If the owner lets rust get that bad I'm sure they didn't take care of the rest of it either. Even the fucking bumper is rusty, that could have been fixed just by some light sanding.
>>
>I need
You said the magic words, if you require any measure of reliability buy a truck that's actually in good condition, it'll probably cost you less than what it'll cost you to buy and repair this one.
>I want to learn welding
Cool, set aside $500 or something and buy some rustbucket to wrench on the weekends, that way when you realize this is actually a lot of work and it ends up rotting in your driveway unfixed you won't be down too much money plus it'll be a car you're not relying on for anything.
>>
>>28611526
Get a single cab v6 shitbox. Those are worthless and last forever.
>>
>>28611600
No. Raise your budget to $5k and buy in that ballpark. You will waste way too much time on a beater truck sub 3k. Plus if you can pick those items up just from pictures then there is way more wrong not pictured. There are occasionally deals, I waited nearly 9-10 months before snagging my beater for 3500.
>>
Nononononononono
>>
Interior is very clean
>>
>>28611679
I can't afford that much. I'm in between jobs.
Im gonna low ball this guy starting at 1000. Not gonna pay more than 1800.
It's been sitting there for months. I'll probably need to dump 1000 into it right away.

I don't care about the body rust. As long as the frame is solid and it runs good. I'll make an appointment to test drive it.
I didn't see any big oil leaks from anywhere but the right bank.

This truck won't see much milage. It can rust more on my backyard for all I care. I'm sick of renting a truck everytime I need to pick something up
>>
>>28611810
the manifestation of not wanting to be in such a piece of shit.
>>
Youre deeply confused. Its done. Its dead. Its a decaying corpse. There is such a thing as enough surface rust rendering it a loss. That is a loss. Its done. Its worth zero dollars.
>>
Mine is nearly that bad but through the copium of plastic, you can't tell. Someday it'll drop the gas tank on the highway then banana as the frame snaps in half.
>>
>>28611611
>>28611600
>>28611526
If you learned to weld fixed the body rust yourself you'd be in this truck for at least 100 hours of labor just in body work.
>>
>>28611862

guarantee you the manifolds leak.


here's the thing; im not really into cars anymore, so I just fix what I need to, but you guys dont really get rust.

rivets and epoxy are far better ways and easier than welding to get a functional fix. Harder to hide under a coat of paint, but you are all fixated how you have to "weld" to fix rust.... the heat from welding FUCKS the metal next to it. Anything welded that lives in the salt like this (its wisconsin, retards. you have no idea) is gonna rust out right next to your weld in 5 years.

the solution for the bed is ignore it till you buy a new one from the south or a take-off.
the solution for the cab is riveting on new cab corners, or slapping a shitload of roof patch on and walking away.

Body rust really is an endless battle if you want to fight it once its started.
Salt is a bastard, there is no hiding from it. You retards that dont know how to weld are just gonna make bird poop or blow thru thin sheet steel, and like I said, due to the heat you'll get a far shorter fix than riveting a plate over it and unloading paint at it

better yet, care less.
id look for a different truck, OP. that one is pretty beat.
>>
>>28611605
The 4.7 is an absolute turd.
>>
If it was thr v10 or cummies 2500 DUI world champion version I would get $400 worth of fender flares and raptor liner kit and go to town on the lower half using a body line as a paint line. Sand and POR15 the areas the flares cover then mask, sand the areas to be bed lined, apply adhesion promoter and then shoot. Shoot the flares off the truck then mount them. You will have to remove the fake bolts from the fake bolt on flares and use self tapping machine screws to mount the flares. Go easy bolting them on. You could make it look not like shit for $500 but it would still be a 4.7L half ton with a poverty spec interior.
>>
>>28611526
Don't buy it OP.
Even if you could weld, which you currently can't, you're going to be sinking hundreds of hours and easily another half the purchase cost in parts and scrap metal to fix enough of the underlying issues to make it roadworthy. There are trucks that are worth that kind of effort. This isn't one of them.
>>
>>28611611
Dude thats not "surface rust".
Frame and suspension are being held together by prayers.
And payers dont cure cancer.
Which that truck has.
>>
>>28611526
You meant $250, right? Because it isn't even worth that. If you want a project at least get something that's useful after you put a fuck load of work into it. If you fix the rust on this POS the engine and/or tranny will go out next. For $2500 you can get a rusty but decent GMT800. At least that has a solid powertrain and would be usable as a daily driver even if you have to change out the 4L Slippy.
>>
>>28611862
You're not wrong, it's a $500 truck based entirely on what's visibly and obviously wrong up front. But if you're in between jobs how are you paying for the parts and materials if you're able to DIY those fixes? Thing is going to cost $4-5k by the time you're done with it. I'd really recommend a GMT800 or even a Jelly Bean Ford before you move forward on that truck. Have you considered anything else about the truck other than the bed usage?
>>
>>28611966
Thanks. I'll let the seller know this when I start to low ball.
>>28612026
I've seen worse on the road. I'm a beater magnet.
I've been looking for trucks for 2 years now. I've seen similar with a much higher asking price. It's the Midwest, salt ruins everything.

It'll be seldomly used. I don't care to do perfect body repair, I'll cut off the rust and weld in some diamond plate I got laying around. Idgaf.

All I care for is that it runs and engine has no issues.

I'll report back once I get to drive it
>>
>>28612502
<thumbs_up.emoji>
>>
>>28612502
>All I care for is that it runs and engine has no issues.
lmao don't buy a Dodge then.
>>
>>28612191
i need to start learning welding on something. sheet metal is free.
>>28612399
ive been wanting a GMT800 for years. cheapest shit around here is over $10k.
even if I find the right one for the right price, I cant afford to drop over $6k for it while im in between jobs.
I can afford a cheap sub $2k truck and new welding gear.
>>28612082
how so? please explain, i can use this in negotiations.
>>28612399
you are all right, this is a $500 pre covid truck. it wont cost me anything to take it out for a spin and hear it run. i can offer him $800 or so. im not in a rush for a truck. the more i think about it the more i think my limit for this is $1200/1300. i'll make that offer, he'll refuse, and when it still sits there into next year he'll call me and i'll tell him I only got $1k cash right now.
again, i only need a truck to haul shit.
dirt, mulch, 10ft boards, plywood, insulation, etc.
i can take it to my mechanic and see whats up once he puts it in the air. he's been giving me freebies for a while, i can throw him $60 for his effort.

btw there is a 1st gen Avalanche sitting next to it for $3500
I'll take a look at it tomorrow.
>>
>>28611526
That's a great price op, don't listen to the hate brigade rust is a cosmetic issue
>>
>>28612558
>btw there is a 1st gen Avalanche sitting next to it for $3500
I might be wrong but the avalanches are surprisingly underrated
>>
>>28612558
GMT800's are definitely not anywhere near $10k for a beater example. $10k would be a very well maintained gasser 3/4 ton. Half tons are much cheaper because people are afraid of the tranny in them. Maybe your market is ultra fucked, who knows but regardless there's a reason why a crusty ass GMT800 goes for a lot more than a crusty Ford or Dodge.
>>
>>28612692
Sorry I meant gmt400.
I have minimal interest in an 800
>>
>>28612706
You should have maximal interest in an 800 if you want a truck that runs with your budget. You're a little late to get on the 400 train.
>>
>>28612637
>>28612692
>>28612709
I have a 400.
I'd take the avalanche.
>>
>>28612637
Correct, but they rust like hell
t.owner
>>
The avalanche appears to be in worse condition
>>
It's an 03
>>
>>
Yikes
>>
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That's normal for GMT800s.
>>
>>28613325
>>28613333
>>28613335
>>28613342
Damn dude. Have you tried looking on marketplace instead of this lot? Those rust buckets run <$2000 where I live in Florida.
>>
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>>28611600
I paid $1500 for a 4.0 ranger long bed in the same condition to haul bikes (michigan). I think I'm in 3.5k total and I tried to keep it cheap. If I get ambitious I'll replace the bed and do cosmetic rust work but for now it's fine.

I would only recommend this for advanced wrenchers and certainly not as a primary vehicle
>>
>>28613464
Feel free to find me something within 6 hours of Milwaukee
>>28613611
Thanks. I love wrenching on shitboxes that I don't care about
>>
>>28611526
>Is this rust bucket worth $2500?

$2500 is like the bottom price on trucks now if it's running and not totally fucked. If that frame isn't rusted through in the back, that's not bad. -assuming it doesn't have major mechanical issues.
>>
I would get rusty truck just so I could use this thing.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XZnqNNwQ_0o
>>
>>28613760
Most satisfying video on the internet
https://youtu.be/YfQ7VrSSPd0
>>
>>28613617
Looked around, pricing is as described by everyone else. $5k for no rust. But there are some flat beds listed for $2500-$3000 if you're good with those.
>>
>>28614157
I've never seen a rust free $5k truck around these parts
I don't plan to spend that much on one anyway.
Not do I want to go out to the West Coast for one. I don't need a good truck. Just a truck for truck things
I'll try to test drive to tomorrow, I'll take it home, jack it up and take a look at all the wheel bearings and brakes
>>
I called the guy to setup a time to take a look at it tomorrow, he said it had "recently developed a tick from the engine"
I dont know anything about the RAM line, could this be a roller/lifter issue or something else?
May I get some info on the 4.7 and the transmission for this gen please so I know what to look for.
real answers only please
>>
Inline 6 and a manual.
>>
Jelly beans are criminally underated.
>>
5.0 4 speed manual
>>
Another bean. These things are worthless but immortal. They also don't look like aids when they rust.
>>
>>
>>28615008
I like the boxy shape
>>
>>28614997
>Mechanic special
>>28615011
This one is nice. Can you link? I don't have FB.
>>28615026
I can smell the elotes through this pic. Nice truck. Link please
>>
>>28615306
>>Mechanic special
It's a manual 300 straight 6. It's basically a tractor. They're meme taxed too so you will come out ahead if you fix it up. Everyone ones those god damn things.
>This one is nice
That one has 230k miles. That's near end of life for autotragic jellybean. Also, its a 4 door with a cuck bed. I'd try to stay under 200k and get a proper bed.
>>
Man jellybeans are cheap. Hold up to the salt belt well too.
>>
>320k miles
I wonder if this is 4.6 or 5.4 2v? That's some miles. They usually get "traded in" (stolen by stealerships and sold for scrap at auction) for a newer truck before they hit 300k in my parts.
>>
>>28615442
This one actually looks clean underneath from what I can see. There's still some paint on the frame thar hasn't turned to surface rust. That must have come from out of state.
>>
>>28615454
Forgot pic. The exterior obviously has some sort of fucked up clear coat over a reapray but it looks uniform at least.
>>
>>
147k
>>
You got cheap jellybeans for days in your area. Go look at them. The blue one is the only one with frame pics and it's pretty clean.
>>
>>28615469
I hate that era of Ford the most.
Ugh. They are plentiful
>>
>>28615457
10 years older with 100 less horsepower
>>
>>28611526
depends check the engine block for 425 v8
and how many mileage if it is buy it but trash the whole truck and take the engine and swap it
>>
>>28611605
sad not a hemi
>>
>>28615512
The 4.6L will last 300k+ miles and it's in better shape than a 2007 Ram. It probably has less rust than a 2017 Ram. Rams are the biggest pos rust buckets on earth except for the 1st gen may he rest in peace. They will have rust hole visible from orbit 10 years after they roll off the lot. >>28611526 and >>28611591 are not outliers. That's normal. I've never seen one that didn't look like that.
>>
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hey, thanks for the ford post.
im not that in a hurry to get a truck to actually drive 4+ hours to look at a 1500 beater.
i also dont have FB so getting in touch with these sellers is extra hard.
for example, this one here seems pretty good, but im not trying to actually spend that much on it right now.
its a V8
but then it has 7 previous owners, and is sitting at a dealer lot
>>
>>28615469
>>28615510
They're certainly ugly. But those Jelly beans had the easiest time with their 4.6 and 5.4s. They're ridiculously cheap and reliable for the first generation of that engine line. You could also do like me and pick up a V8 9th gen. Doesn't have the same throughput as a Jelly, but they're dummy easy and spacious to work on it you need to. For some reason the inline 6 is very coveted for meme reasons, but the 5.8 never went on the same material diet that the 5.0 did and is just as reliable. Parts are plenty and dirt fucking cheap on that. Same story with the 5.7 Chevy. First gen 5.3 is also goated. I would recommend either Ford or Chevy first gen post square/old body style. Loads of good frame work and mechanical advancements.
>>
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OP here, bad news bears. I went to look at the truck.
the day after I took the first pics and made this post, he had some kid come by and test drive it without the owner being there, the truck was low and oil and the kid probably hooned it.
Now it has rod knock. signs of glitter on the dip stick.
goddamn fucking shame. if only I was there first.

im gonna go check out this one in a few >>28616249
>>
>>28616390
I suspect it already had those problems before the kid drove it.
>>
Really dont understand if this is bait. The truck is fucking worthless.
>>
>>28616520
Probably, but I would have checked the oil level before driving it
>>
>>28616249
Avoid those like the plague if they have a 5.4. You want the 4.6 in backwards door 4 door or v6 in light weight work truck spec ONLY. The 5.4 3v is a pos that no one will touch after 130k miles. You want a new timing chain and cam phasers as preventative maintenance? No deal. Reman engine only. So many shops have been burned by thar engine at lowish (under $140k) miles finding that timing chain guides are sitting in the pan or thar the chain has eaten into the head once they take rip the front of the truck off to take the timing cover off. This is not to mention other numerous issues with the 5.4 3v. Utterly dogshit. Also the normal opening 4 door cabs are all curse from 2004 to 2014 and have rotted the cab corners and rockers out from the inside. The backwards opening door cabs don't do that.

You want a 2004-2008 4.6L supercab or 2009-2014 5.0 supercab. NO 5.4 3v or crew cabs.
>t. 5.4 3v crewcab haver with fake cab corners
>>
This 1980s jewish lesbian or perhaps, zoomer male, has this for sell.
>>
Total jellybean victory. I think the GM and Dodge offerings from that period dissolved into nothing in the upper rust belt.
>>
Just make sure it's not a 5.4
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>>28616610
man the 4.6 on those trucks doesn't even rev when you floor it it's like it doesn't even try. It just accelerates slowly with patience lol... but I get it if it's reliable just super annoying that it doesn't even try
>>
>>
The truck in the OP is the normal amount of rust for a Ram. They are just like that. Expensive too. Why is your 200k shitbox $3000? It's a 5.7L but if you're not towing over 3k pounds then that doesn't matter for a shitbox work vehicle to just sit in a driveway and go haul yard waste or whatever once in a while.
>>
Here is something worth welding on assuming it runs and drives.
>>
>>28616249
back from looking at this, its a pos. runs like shit, dry rotted tires, rust behind nasty fender flairs.
>>28616632
this might be worth it, i found another truck in Antioch.
im not gonna drive more than 45 minutes out looking at beaters
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>>28611605
>i literally dont need it
/thread
>>
>>28616632
can you link this, i cant find this posting using those exact keywords and fb keeps asking me to register every 4 searches.
>>
>>28617676
Can't find it. Try this. Same thing but with in lariat trim with 173k. Again, make sure it's not a 5.4. Doesn't have the 5.4 triton badge but make sure. I'd raptor line the flares and lower two tone black. It would look nice.
>>
>>28617766
>tans and power steering are going out
Fuck it. That gen is cursed. Just get a jelly bean or if you must have square truck then a GMT400 or the 80-96 OBS ferds.
>>
>>28617781
As a 94 OBS owner, just check the engine and rear gear first. These 3.08s on my 351 are mega gay. Getting 3.73s in next week. Take the door jamb chart. Don't feel bad getting a RWD, usually not beat on and rusted like a 4x4, and the 92-96s had standardized frames based on the 4x4 so you could more easily swap it in with just the T-case and front axle.



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