Time of year again. I got signs of a clogged heater core, because my inlet core hose is hot but my outflow is just tepid. Vehicle is a 99 and the part is original, which explains why it's starting to fail. Now, on a combustion motor, car just pumps coolant right into a heater core, and that core combines with the blower motor to give us our heat. As these heater cores age, they get clogged with various debris. Das y we gon backflush this part by gently pressurizing a waterstream into the heater core outflow hose, in order to backflush it. While swapping the heater core on my car isn't very hard or expensive, it does require a fair amount of labor because the heater core is behind the glovebox. >two main options for a heater core backflushSome people do it with a garden hose, other people do it with a general purpose pump. I'm doing this as cheaply as possible, but I also want to ensure it's done right, and also I wanna try avoiding 1-off parts. That's one reason I'm favoring the pump approach.>water pump for backflushAnyone know any good 12V or 120V water pumps under $30? Benefits of a water pump is that I can cycle cleaner additives like CLR in my water bucket. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jf8V5ZRHfbs>hose for backflushI'll need a $10 hose from Home Depot, and a way to adapt it >cleaner additivesWhich ones would you recommend for a heater core flush on an aluminum heater core? YouTube says CLR>new heater cores on Rockauto start at $15 + S&H>oem heater core from VW costs upwards of $200, which is out of the question>since I have no pertinent tools, cost for flush kit and core replacement are the about the same, so I'll tackle the less laborious task first>thinking maybe it's cheaper and easier to give a mech $50 to do itVEHICLE INFO1999 VW Passat 1.8T FWD
I flushed your mom's heater core from the back Xd
>>28747920Why the fuck would you use a pump? A garden hose has more than enough pressure to get the job done. You don't need a special fitting either. Just hold the hose or hose nozzle on there for a few minutes. Might as well do the same for the rest of your cooling system while you're at it. Technically this technique leaves a lot of hose water in your cooling system which is not ideal but whatever. Your 30 year old shitbox probably has bigger issues to worry about.
>>28747920
>Some people do it with a garden hose, other people do it with a general purpose pump. I'm doing this as cheaply as possible, but I also want to ensure it's done right, and also I wanna try avoiding 1-off parts. That's one reason I'm favoring the pump approach.You want to "avoid 1-off parts" so instead of using a hose youre buying an electric pump?You talk like a fag and your shits all retarded
>>28748007>>28747986>why use a pump instead of a garden hoseThe reason is because I'm not exactly sure how I'm going to set it up with a garden hose to use additive cleaner such as CLR, white vinegar, etc. Follow these water flow diagrams here:Garden Hosespigot >>> garden hose >>> fitting >>universal hose line >>> heater core hose >> heater core >> other heater core hose >> universal hose line >> outflow bucketPumpBucket with Water+Cleaning solution or Antifreeze >>> Universal Hose Line >> Electric Pump >>> Universal Hose Line >> heater core hose 1 >> heater core >> heater core hose 2Do you see how the pump method allows for additive cleaner? At what point and how would you add cleaner to it via garden hose method?Also I have more general use for a pump than a garden hose, if I have to choose between one or the other.
>>28747920>>28748065Your welcome
>>28747920tap in to the c0olling line system with a T-fitting. connect gardenhose to T-fitting.remove radiator cap to allow overflow start engineturn on heater full bastturn on garden hose let it run for a 1/2 hourmonitor it to see that dirty water is coming out of the overflow at some time during the process.note that if you think your heater core might be plugged. its highly likely the radiator has deposits that need to be flushed out as well.the heater core is just part of the cooling/heating system.
