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File: IMG_9790.jpg (625 KB, 971x1020)
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I am going to be changing the oil in my car myself for the first time, but I have to decide on whether to buy brand name oil or store brand oil like pic related. I know for conventional oil, brand name should be used, but since this is full synthetic, could I just use the walmart brand?
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>>28775806
All oil works to lubricate the engine, Expensive oils have additives and detergents that help the engine, but are not really necessary for the job of lubricating an engine.

Only thing is that if you pick a brand for the benefits of all these additives, you better stick to it, cause if you're just gonna switch between Mobil, Valvoline, Castrol etc. every other oil change then might as well just stick with the cheapo oil cause every single fancy schmancy oil uses different chemicals and detergents and will just wash away the old stuff.
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>>28775858
Ah, I see. Thanks!
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Amsoil and Liqui-Moly are great.
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>>28775858
Whats the downside of using old style non synthetic oil? My engine still has adjustable rocker arms, and i think that means i still need ZDDP, hence im currently using API SE or SG grade mineral oil. I think...they have detergents...

I cant get zddp additives in my country. Theyre available, but not from reputable brands.
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>>28775806


For stuff you can get from your local box store Penzoil Ultra Platinum, Valvoline Restore and Protect, and Mobil1 FS Euro are all good choices.
For stuff you can order online you can't beat HPL PCMO.
If you like tracking or 'spirited' driving regularly, then a high quality oil can be the difference between normal operation and premature failures.
If all you do is commute at the speed limit, then all you need is short oil change intervals (3-5k miles or a year, whichever comes first) and it'll outlast any other model on the road.
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>>28775806
If you're doing 3-5k miles like you're supposed to then the oil doesn't matter
Older cars with decades old gaskets might get slight leaks with synthetic but eh free rustproofing
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>>28775806
Boil your hands then type.
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>>28776095
Boil your head then fry.
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>>28775806
Acceptable cheap Oil for daily drivers:

Mobil 1 Extended performance.
Pennzoil ultra Platinum.
Valvoline restore and protect.
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>>28776401
Based Mobil 1, it's the oil nobody can say shit about because it's not alot of money and it's fine.
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>>28775858
>Only thing is that if you pick a brand for the benefits of all these additives, you better stick to it, cause if you're just gonna switch between Mobil, Valvoline, Castrol etc. every other oil change then might as well just stick with the cheapo oil cause every single fancy schmancy oil uses different chemicals and detergents and will just wash away the old stuff
That's some incredible boomer logic
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What's the redpill with mixing different brands of oils? I've heard don't do it because some of the different detergents they use won't get along with each other and could cause sludging and shit. Sounds kinda iffy but I guess it makes more sense to stick with a shingle brand.
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>>28776607
It doesn't matter Anon, as long as the weight is the same.
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I take it to the dealer around 3500.
I think my owner manual says 5k intervals but nigga I'm DRIVIN around town and this is a stupid ass turbo subaru motor
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>>28776646
Based, so many people do stop and go driving, and they're following the 10,000 mile interval that Toyota gives, and then wonder why they have problems, it would take me over a year to go 10,000 miles, that's cold starts everyday with tons of fuel blowby before it warms up, shifting through the gears instead of just highway cruising forever and ever, you gotta fuckin change it, you can go hard on a car but the oil will deteriorate with hard use in spite of low mileage.
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I like to read the owner's manual and then realize that the Walmart oil meets spec so I use that.

Maybe use something better if you drive something high performance and actually use that performance but for a basic daily the Walmart oil is probably going to meet the spec for your car and be the cheapest option. The motor oil geek has a lot of praise for Pennzoil Ultra platinum. It's also scored well in Project farm tests.
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>>28776682
Honestly Anon, you could have high performance beast with a turbo and 0W-20 oil from Walmart would perform admirably, keep it changed and you're fine.
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>>28776093
only reasonable response. unless you're reconditioning some old engine or running the engine some extreme scenario (you're not), frequency is king for any motor you want to baby through it's life. walmart synthetic <5K miles. any wear is an act of god at that point
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>>28775806
This is anecdotal and just a single data point, but I was using Supertech synthetic and I ended up with a stuck ring.
My car does go through lengthy periods of sitting so the cylinder walls dry, but driving it didn't unstick the ring, it took Sea Foam to do it.
I switched to Penzoil after that and haven't had the same problem. Might not mean anything. Probably doesn't mean anything. But that is my experience with Supertech.
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>>28775806
It's possible to do more damage to an engine with 5 minutes of running hot at the redline than 5 years of commuting at the speed limit, if the oil you are using is not capable of handling it, tipping things over the point between 'no noticeable effect' and 'a whole lot of effect all at once'.
In the former case, a good quality oil is essential for long engine life, something that can keep everything lubricious and protected even at high temps and engine speeds. If you like to push it and have fun with your car, that's what you need.
In the later case, short oci's are all there is to it.
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>>28776759
>short oci's are all there is to it
This, people always debate best oil, when the reality is that freshly changed oil is the based oil.
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>>28776761
poorfag cope, if the oil isn't at least API SQ it WILL blow up via low speed pre ignition
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>>28775806

Service interval lenght is the most imporţante in your oil changes.


>Expensive oils are (usually) better, , but are they good nuff for the price,

outside some issues they might mitigate in shitboxes or speshul cases (certain old engines require oils with specific aditives to run)

>,probably not.

>That being said
I personally still buy expensive over cheap.

>However, you should prolly shorten oilchange intervals from a year to every 6 months or

>half the oilchage interval by mileage...whichever cumms first.


>Your standard oilchange interwall
( in ths random example i will pretend it is : 1 year or 10000 miles whichever cones first)
> applyes only in optimal road conditions.

> Nobody drives in optimal conditions, in which case you generally half it
to 6 months or 5000 miles.

If all my vehicle manuals (i had 3 vehicles, 2 murder bikes, and 1 car) are to be trusted.

>Harsh conditions include but are not limited to : stop and go traffic, extreme cold, extreme heat, extreme humidity, short trips. Any combination of the above.

>Ex-spleen-ation:
oil that is poured into an engine wont degrade quickly, and is very stable if you do not start your car

however
Starting your car means

heatcycles,

moisture from combustion,
unburnt gasoline blowby when the car is cold,
soot ecc,
all accelerate oil degradation and deplete its aditives
. Eventually oil does not dissolve particles very well, starts gumming up passáge and pistõn rinğs, lübricates less effëctively, lőœses visçosity, And ĉlogs tuřbos,

Extra high quality full synt oil will probably last slightly longer then a cheap oil, but not enough to make much difference.

The reason i use expensive oil and shorter intervals is because oil is cheap (even the gucci stuff) compared to a new engine. And you generally get less ownership headackes.

I pay more for tyres and gasoline then i do for oil+ oil filter twice a year
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>>28776056
>My engine still has adjustable rocker arms
mine does too, i just use the cheapest shit and it works fine



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