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My Honda Accord (2016 model) gets 18 mpg highway and 16 mpg city, but only has 2.4L 4 cylinder. It also shakes violently at idle ~400-600 RPM, but I have heard that this is normal for Hondas with this engine in this generation. Why is my car running rich?

I need to drive 300 miles sometime in the foreseeable future and I know that it does not have the range to make it. Should I just focus on jerry cans or should I try to get a quote on a new ECU?
>>
>>28777036
The engine airflow sensor (MAF) is a key sensor in the intake system, usually located behind the air filter. Its primary function is to measure the amount of air drawn into the engine. Based on this data, the ECU precisely adjusts the fuel delivery, creating the ideal fuel-air mixture, which affects power, efficiency, and fuel consumption. A malfunction can lead to engine malfunctions, such as rough idling, loss of power, or increased fuel consumption caused by improper fuel delivery.

AI wrote this
>>
>>28777036
take it to a mechanic. there are any number of things that could be wrong.
>defective O2 sensor or circuit integrity
>defective MAP/MAF sensor or circuit integrity
>dying catalytic converter
>stuck or sticking EGR valve
>defective variable valve timing
>fuel injector(s) stuck open
>etc.
>>
>>28777043
What about blown head gaskets? In ym two years owning it, I have gone through more than a half dozen head gaskets.
>>28777042
This might be it. I need to find a mechanic, then, since I do not have and cannot afford a scanner. The car shudders and nearly stalls at the 15-20 mph range of speed.
>>
>>28777046
i wouldn't expect a blown head gasket to tank your fuel efficiency. anyways, there's something seriously fucked up with your engine if it's blowing six head gaskets in two years. who is replacing them -- you or a mechanic?
>>
>>28777049
First two times it was me, each time thereafter I took it into a shop, but never the same shop twice. The first shop tried to scam me by saying that I needed a new cabin air filter (which I had changed along with the engine air filter the day before, plus I never use the A/C, so it saves wear). The past few shops were alright, but I never had my full confidence in them.

The only good mechanic that I know of in my city does GM, Ford Motor Company and Chrysler Group cars only. If the repairs are worth more than the car (which I am guessing is a $4-5k car in this day and age). What should I look at, if I want to use that mechanic? Panther bodies, B bodies and Buick 3800 powered cars are what I am looking at mostly. Any other suggestions, keep in mind, my budget is probably $5k or less, maybe $7k if I do not get groceries for a few weeks.
>>
>>28777057
if it's repeatedly blowing head gaskets you either have a mechanical fit issue
>improper installation
>block/head that isn't flat and parallel
or you have some sort of coolant loop issue that's allowing overheating of the gasket, causing it to blow.
>partially blocked coolant passages
>upstream problems like a bad thermostat, blocked radiator, etc.

youre probably better off getting the car fixed right because a $5k american car could be even more fucked up than what you're dealing with now.
>>
>>28777074
Temps regularly hit 90+ from March until October, not sure if this is a factor or not. Thanks for the advice. Going to try another shop today and tell them the problems that I have been having. It is a franchise, though, which has me a bit wary.

Thanks for your help.
>>
>multiple head gaskets
Could've bought and swapped an entire motor by now.
>>
>>28777138
Yeah, but it doesn't help that I am retarded. Not that engine swaps are rocket science if I replace it with the exact same engine, but I have screwed up surprisingly simple tasks in horrible ways in the past... (Like the one time I put mayonnaise in my bran instead of milk).
>>
>>28777036
Coolant temp sensor, thermostat. Plugged injectors, dirty maf, maf would also point towards stalling you describe. Air filter can cause massive fuel economy problems on engines w no maf, don't know what a Honda looks like. Cam sensor can cause a long crank and low performance/economy, rough idle

>>28777046
I've seen engines with 60psi of compression from overheated rings run not-noticably-bad, you have an idiot mechanic. If the rings are done then the block is probably also warped causing repeated blows, it would be cheaper to get a used engine for it



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