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File: IMG_0975.jpg (3.34 MB, 4032x3024)
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Picrel the bolt in question is a 10mm external torx that holds the injector in place. Thanks to how shitty BMWs are built, these chinesium bolts were all torqued to random values, cylinder 2 and 3 came off quite easily, but this one doesn’t come off no matter what I try.
Using the E10 socket rounded off the corners and when I tried a spiral bolt extractor, it rounded it off even more. The bolt is made of very soft aluminium but seems to have been torqued to the same spec as fucking king Arthur’s Excalibur. I’m not even using power tools, I used a breaker bar to break the torque and then just unscrewed them by hand on cylinder 2 and 3. Haven’t gotten to the 4th one yet as I still need to remove strut bars to get there but this one is pissing me off as I need to refurbish all 4 injectors.
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Water pump pliers.
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I’ve tried the 3 smallest size extractors and result was rounded off bolt, and damaged extractor socket. I’ve hammered them in until they wouldn’t budge. I am running out of options
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reverse drill bit
heat
hammer in screw extractor
if that fails, biggest drill bit that won't hit the threads
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>>28795215
>The bolt is made of very soft aluminium
Apparently not if it damaged the extractor.
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>>28795222
Tried the first and 3rd options, didn’t work.
I’m a bit reluctant using heat as the injector piece and even the valve cover is plastic.
I have one idea though. In this type of bolts, the head is what holds the torque right? Breaking the head of the bolt, would make it loose, right?
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>>28795215
>the chinesium on the krautbox is stronger than the g*ermoid "tool"
Just use channel locks or grind the head off, remove the fork and injector then remove the stump using channel lock. It should be fairly accessible.
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>>28795226
Unless the thread is seized into the block
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Make a cut into it with a dremel or whatever and smack it with a flathead impact driver.
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>>28795226
>as the injector piece and even the valve cover is plastic.
lol, lmao
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>>28795206
>I need to refurbish all 4 injectors.
>on a car new enough to have a plastic valve cover
what?
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>>28795226
>>28795235
>Unless the thread is seized into the block
If its seized in the block it will need heating in any case so might as well remove the head and the injector
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Get a big punch larger in diameter than the head of the bolt. Put it on what is left of the bolt head and give it a few good smacks with a hammer. Then get your Malco Eagle grips (you do have those right) on there good and tight and back that motherfucker right out.
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>>28795229
I’m thinking the extractor set is also made of chinesium. Germans haven’t made good shit since they lost WW2.
>>28795241
You’d be surprised how much plastic is under a BMW hood.
>>28795242
It’s a common issue with this engine, the injectors are leaking and the valve cover also leaks oil all around it so I’m going to replace gaskets, injector seals and while I’m at it might as well send the injectors for refurbishing. In the meantime I already detected another oil leak on the oil return hose underneath the turbo, pulled it out and the hose was cracked.
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>>28795206
>The bolt is made of very soft aluminium but seems to have been torqued to the same spec as fucking king Arthur’s Excalibur.
galling

> I used a breaker bar to break the torque
use penetrating oil. And now use something like Knipex Cobra pliers. Also you could cut a slot in it and try using a large screw driver with a hex bolster, and putting a long wrench on the bolster or as >>28795238 says. Otherwise you get to drill it out

>>28795257
>You’d be surprised how much plastic is under a BMW hood.
Even old as fuck Panther bodies like '96 Crown Vics have plastic manifolds
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>>28795206
hehehe, I had a similar problem years ago with the crank angle sensor on my car. Also tried extractors.

Spray it with WD40 just soak it, then use any clamp or tool you have to get two of the bolt sides flat. I used bolt cutters to mold the head, then used vice grips to bite on and turn.
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>>28795380
I actually just bought pliers like those, had tried all sorts of pliers except these. Even grip pliers like someone previously suggested.
I used 2 whole cans of penetrating oil. I’ve left it overnight and again a few minutes before each try.
I’ve bought a dremel now to try and cut a slot in it. Had no clearance to try and do it with an angle grinder
What really pisses me is that this car hasn’t been touched before, so this is how they were torqued from factory, they all should have come off with the same effort.
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>>28795206
Just set the car on fire and get something else. It's the most satisfying solution
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>>28795206
An impact gun would've gotten it off (it's the shock load that breaks it loose) but I understand you not doing that - I probably wouldn't have started that way, either. Looks like a hell of a bad location. I think it's time to dremel a slot into it and use a manual impact-screwdriver.
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>>28795206
If you have space this will work too.
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>>28795401
I don’t really like using impacts on TTY bolts, because you can easily crack them. It’s preferable to break them out slowly.
I’ll have to get the smallest size dremel saw because I don’t have much clearance. Don’t even care about the valve cover as I might have to replace it anyways if it’s warped, but wouldn’t want to damage the injector.
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>>28795428
You'll want to make sure you don't cut the slot too deep or you'll just snap the head of the bolt into pieces, but also need to make sure the impact driver bit fits in there properly and doesn't slip, so it needs to be properly deep too.
Then take a good grip of the driver and smack it with a proper sledge, not some small 1 pound toy, grab a proper 5 pound solid steel mallet and give it a whack.
You'll then learn the value of an impact driver, fuck playing around with oils and pb blaster or what not bullshit sprays, they do nothing.
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>>28795462
Gonna make one last attempt using one of these, if this doesn’t work guess I’ll slot it and try a flathead on one of those.
Also have ordered a set of nut breakers to try on, I have one but it’s too big to fit in the small gap between the bolt and the injector.
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>>28795496
Not just a regular flathead, one of these.
I've managed to get some amazingly tight shit out with these things.
For example the clutch plate screws of my motorcycle were rusted in so tight from having sat out in the elements for decades, even welding nuts on them didn't get them out, but one of these with a sledge got them moving.
Do note that the bits are kinda single use and consumable.
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>>28795206
Cut a slot in it
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>>28795505
Yeah that’s exactly the set I just bought. Unfortunately the latest I can get it is thursday.
I have no issues with the bits being one use, as long as they work. I had to return the bolt extractor set because that thing was garbage.
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>>28795226
>could've picked any other common standard/same/metric size fastener with a hex or allen head
>yanah fuck ya cunt, go buy an entire set of specialty sockets you'll never use again for this one (1) job
>German engineering it at finest!
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>>28795728
They usually do this on bolts that need specific torque settings to force you to buy these specific bolts only, otherwise Juan from Jiffy lube would go and buy the cheapest bolts at any home depot that just happened to have the same length and thread pitch.
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>>28795206
>I’m not even using power tools
Should have been
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Cutting a slot is dangerous.
Only do that as a laat resort.
There's a chance youll crack off what remains of the head.
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>>28796377
Agree not to cut

The best solution is: probably some combination of impact driver with hammered-on slightly oversize Torx bit and/or and induction bolt heater
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>>28795428
Don't blame you for trying everything else, before cutting. I don't even see a good angle of attack for a dremel. Is there ANY equipment you can pull off, to get a better angle? I'd spend an hour or two, dismantling other systems if it meant I could get a better grip on that thing.
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>>28796500
If the alternative methods posted itt dont work, you can cut the injector retainer like pic related and try to twist it.
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>>28796500
>>28796528
Yeah there isn’t much clearance but if I have to saw part of the valve cover I’ll do it anyways. I MIGHT have some clearance to try and cut a slot at this angle.
I’ll try all the tools I’ve bought to see if I can get it out before cutting a slot, if even that doesn’t work I’ll try cutting off or drilling the head of the bolt to release the tension and hope the threaded portion isn’t seized.
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put a rubber glove over the injector openings first, you don't want metal shavings in there
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>>28796528
Unfortunately this wouldn’t work, the end of the holding clamp sits on top of another bolt that holds the valve cover, and you can’t wiggle it.
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>>28795505
I thought of this too, but I'm a bit hesitant to suggest using it. What is that bolt connected to? Sure you won't just bend the fuck out if it once you start hammering?
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>>28795415
Get the knipex Cobra version btw on Amazon. Insane grip on them
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>>28796587
Cut that off too.
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>>28796728
And remember, you only have to twist it enough to break it free, then you can plier it out if there.
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>>28796577
an oscillating tool with a metal blade will allow a plunge cut for the slot. then use the impact screw driver. if the bolt is soft enough you can also get a sharp cold chisel and get a little indentation going on the edge of the remaing head and tap it in the direction to loosen it.
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>>28796577
>try cutting off or drilling the head of the bolt to release the tension and hope the threaded portion isn’t seized.
Just do that now and save your self the extraneous work, cutting a slot on the head is just gonna chew it up more once you reef on with a flathead. As soon as you get the injector out you have much more space to get the rest of the threaded portion out
>T. tradie who extracts bolts on a daily
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>>28797599
i somewhat agree due to access, but i dont know OPs situation but if it was my only shitbox and rely on it to get to wage cage i would exhaust all options on the head of the bolt before resorting to cutting or drilling the head off right away and then end up with a mangled nub that is still stuck.
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>>28795206
Get a drill type extractor, not the ones that grab the bolt head. Drill down the center, use the extractor to remove it. Replace with a steel bolt with same thread pattern. Make sure to put tape over anything you don't want metal going into before you start drilling.
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>>28795206
thread full of fake mechanics.

cut the ears off, remove the injector, grind the bolt head off, remove the part, weld some slag onto the remaining bolt, hand-file the slag to match an torx profile, use an etorx socket to remove it, drill out the threads, insert the next size up helicoil

done
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>>28797704
Everything after the welding is completely unnecessary. You should weld a nut onto it so you can unscrew it with a socket. And why would you drill out the threads at all? All you need is a new bolt.
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>>28797704
This reads like an AI mashup of random forum replies to "how to remove stripped bolt".

Plus youre a dumbfuck.
If OP had a welder he would have zapped a nut onto it and this thread wouldnt exist.
And why the hell would someone drill out the threads after successfully removing the bolt?
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^
theres the fake mechanics im talking about btw
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>>28797577
I tried both actually. Even tried getting the chisel under the base of the head to stretch and lift it and maybe then release the tension but didn’t work. I guess if I have to use a chisel or a blade again it will be to cut off the head completely.
>>28797599
I actually considered giving a call to a service that specialises in removing stuck bolts/nuts because I have a seized glow plug as well that’s been bugging me for the past 4 years. Maybe I’ll do it if none of these options work.
>>28797629
This is actually supposed to be my daily, but has been sitting around for a while, lots of things I had to fix, from squealing turbo to oil leaks, broken coolant tank, washer fluid also leaking, DMF springs busted, exhaust had to be replaced because original had rust and holes, and now valve cover and injectors are leaking. In comparison I bought a cheap “broken” 350z that would shut down mid drive whose problem was only bad cam sensors. That one is now my daily car and runs smoothly and doesn’t even burn oil. Don’t get BMW. It may look premium on the outside, but you get Temu under the hood
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>>28797704
>thread full of fake mechanics.
>drill out the threads, insert the next size up helicoil
Fuck off botpost. The threads aren't fucked retard, it's just a stripped head
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>>28797704
>insert the next size up helicoil
That's hick shit, you drill it out then use a threaded insert that brings it back to the original thread size.
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>>28795206
>torqued to the same spec as fucking king Arthur’s Excalibur
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ez pz
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Alternatively
(this is actually option #1 but I know you're too much of a wrenchlet to have a welder)
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>>28797717
>>28797758
>>28798592
>>28798593
hand file the welding slag into a torx head seriously didnt give it away? kek
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>>28798606
youre an idiot. op stated the bolt is aluminum. most diy's arent set up to weld aluminum.
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>>28798777
I highly doubt that if he fucked up a reverse extractor with it
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OP here. None of the tools ordered from Amazon worked, they chipped away and rounded off the bolt even further. Ultimately I took the risk and cut off the head of the bolt. Soon as I did it, a quick tap with hammer and chisel broke the torque and I was able to unscrew it by hand. Never buying BMW again, this shit never happened to my 350z and I did way more shit on it, including exhaust.
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>>28798806
Is it REALLY aluminium?
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>>28798817
nta but of course not. He's smoking elephant turds or something.
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>>28798817
Bmw uses one time use torque to yield aluminum bolts everywhere. They started that bullshit in 2006.
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>>28798840
if it's aluminum how can it possibly damage an extraction tool?
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>>28798841
Aluminium is higher on the hardness scale than chinesium
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>>28798817
Just test it with magnet.
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>>28798817
I’m no metals expert but when ordering the new ones it said aluminium, and like >>28798840 said, BMW uses mostly aluminium bolts and in rare cases a zinc alloy if I remember right. It damaged the extractor kit because that kit is garbage, I’m going to return it, but those extractor sockets aren’t meant to be too hard anyways so they don’t break the bolts, they’re one time use most of the times.
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>>28798872
>a zinc alloy
You mean zinc coated, a regular "shineware" bolt you mean? Those are zinc coated too.
I'm not saying it isn't aluminium because it would make sense to use aluminium bolts there.
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>>28798872
>BMW uses mostly aluminium bolts
Fucking what? I find that extremely hard to believe and if true I'm adding it to the list of reason why nobody should buy a modern bmw
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1: File down the sides for a smaller socket
2: File down two parallel sides to put a crescent wrench or adjustable wrench on it. You'll make a shape closer to a rectangle or square instead of a hexagon.

>>28798604
>>28798606
JB Weld might do it, or fill a sacrificial socket with the epoxy, press it on the head of the bolt.
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>>28798888
>zinc coated
Yeah that’s it, like spark plugs use as well, to prevent seizing.
>>28798902
They do, and it’s not just around the engine (which if they were all magnesium it would make sense to use aluminium, but even standard engine blocks get them), they also use them in the suspension, transmission, differential… And they’re all one time use also so any service in one of those parts needs new bolts, which by the way, may be internal torx, external torx, some unconventional hex size, and even have a non standard thread pitch so you don’t go buy different bolts with different heads.
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>>28798940
I've had a couple of "new" BMWs and none of them had aluminium bolts in any "service" parts like suspension bits and such.
They were all more or less regular fasteners in standard sizes.
Then again torx, mm hex and such are pretty standard fare in Europe along with fine pitch threads. I don't see them as anything special.
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As a side-note, write down the codes on the injectors and which cylinder they belong to. There's a correction code on them that's entered into the ECU to correct tolerances.
It'll still run if that's all wrong but some injectors might run out of spec.
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>>28799001
Yep I did that, took a picture of each of them and noted which code belongs to which cylinder. I also stuck them in order on a foam block and put noted the cylinder number with screws. I’m gonna send them over for refurbishing while I do the gaskets this weekend.
This thread was fun. Working on a BMW is not though. Now onto the next headache, vacuuming the gunk and metal flakes from the valve cover and all the PB blaster that drained into the injector tubes.
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>>28798777
>the bolt is aluminium
>but I'M THE IDIOT

The bolt is not aluminium, I refuse to believe it.
If it is, the entire car should be immediately driven off a cliff and the person who made the decision to put an aluminium bolt on a car should be sentenced to life in prison.
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>>28799828
>aboult million results on google
Fine, be an idiot then.
>>
Honestly you may get better answers on
>>>/diy/
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>>28800417
Nah the answers were good, it was the tools that were shit, Amazon didn’t have any good brands with prime delivery.
Valve covers have the same e-torx bolt heads but fortunately they came out without issues. Looking pretty decent for a car that is nearing 260k kms/160k miles, better than I expected. Glad I’ve always changed the oil every 5k and used ceramic additive, it still got the original timing chain and it still has perfect tension, looks brand new.



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